Big Bend Ranch State Park is located on the Rio Grande in Brewster and Presidio counties, Texas. It is the largest state park in Texas. The closest major town is Presidio, Texas, where the state park's head office is located.
Big Bend Ranch is located adjacent to Big Bend National Park and shares the national park's Chihuahuan Desert ecosystem. Big Bend Ranch has a herd of longhorn cattle and there is a semi-annual longhorn roundup.
The Big Bend Ranch manages 23 miles (37 km) of frontage along the Rio Grande, and river rafting is popular here. Away from the river, visitors can hike, backpack, go horseback riding or enjoy mountain biking in the Big Bend Ranch's substantial backcountry.
Official Texas State Parks Guide (español). Published by Texas Parks & Wildlife.
Dinosaur Valley SP
https://tpwd.texas.gov/state-parks/big-bend-ranch
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Bend_Ranch_State_Park
Big Bend Ranch State Park is located on the Rio Grande in Brewster and Presidio counties, Texas. It is the largest state park in Texas. The closest major town is Presidio, Texas, where the state park's head office is located.
Big Bend Ranch is located adjacent to Big Bend National Park and shares the national park's Chihuahuan Desert ecosystem. Big Bend Ranch has a herd of longhorn cattle and there is a semi-annual longhorn roundup.
The Big Bend Ranch manages 23 miles (37 km) of frontage along the Rio Grande, and river rafting is popular here. Away from the river, visitors can hike, backpack, go horseback riding or enjoy mountain biking in the Big Bend Ranch's substantial backcountry.
TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE
Big Bend
Ranch SP
Map
Be
Our
Friend
What’s
Up?
Stars!
Pages 6 — 7
Page 10
Page 11
Black
Bears
Return
el SOLitarIo
TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT
|
Page 12
BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK
To the
Fort!
TPWD
By Cassie Cox
Regional Interpretive Specialist
Fort Davis, TX
Still today, people come and go
clean and maintain the fort and
from all over the world to Fort
learn skills that will help them
Leaton, now a State Historic
along their future career paths.
Site and gateway to Big Bend
They work on weekends and
Ranch State Park, looking to
when out of school for breaks.
learn about the fascinating
As the only program of its type
history of the area and recre-
in Texas State Parks, we are so
ational opportunities in the Big
proud to have the students of
Bend. Should you visit the fort,
Presidio represent their school
some staff you might encounter
and community to visitors from
include Presidio High School
all over the world. Stop by
Student Docents.
and ask if a student docent is
These ambitious teenagers apply
available to lead you on a tour.
for paid positions that allow
If not, there are self-guided tour
them to learn about the history
brochures along with exhibits
of the fort, lead visitors on tours,
and knowledgeable staff.
Table of
contents
When available, student docents
lead public tours at Fort Leaton
State Historic Site.
Cassie Cox
Since its 1848 founding, people have come and gone from Fort Leaton. Early on it was home
to Ben Leaton, wife Juana Pedrasa and their children who also ran the fort as a trading post.
Explorers, soldiers, traders, Native Americans, Mexicans and Anglo settlers sought the fort
for business as well as a refuge from Native American raids and other borderland outlaws.
Beastly Bones. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Make the Most of Your Visit. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Certified Commercial Guides and Outfitters. . . . 3
BBRSP Camping. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Be Aware. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Fees and Visitor Services. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Big Bend Ranch Geology: El Solitario. . . . . . . . . . 5
(cont. on page 2)
Big Bend Ranch State Park Map. . . . . . . . . . . . . 6
Access and Visitor Services. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8
Featured Hikes. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 9
Be Our Friend. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Volunteer Activities. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
What’s Up? . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
The Return of Black Bears to BBRSP. . . . . . . . 12
El Solitario is published by the Texas Parks and Wildlife Department for the orientation and education of visitors to Big Bend Ranch State Park.
To the Fort!
(cont. from page 1)
We’d like to highlight two special Student Docents for this issue of
El Solitario. Crystal and Omar were both Presidio High School seniors
who graduated in May 2019. We interviewed them about what they
gained from their time at Fort Leaton State Historic Site.
Cassie Cox
Crystal has learned a lot about the
history of the area.
Crystal exclaimed “It’s
the best job I’ve ever had!”
Omar shared that this
position has been a big
boost in his confidence.
Omar says that thanks to
his time at the fort, he’s
less shy when meeting
Omar is more
confident
in public
speaking.
Cassie Cox
When asked about their
favorite part of the job,
they both mentioned
enjoying telling the stories
of the fort to visitors from
all over world, including
some visitors they met
from Belgium and Iceland.
They appreciate the
reactions of visitors as
they share the amazing
history of the fort and
Big Bend region.
new people, more knowledgeable for job interviews, and he
understands what constitutes
good customer service.
As a part of their jobs, they’ve
both learned “pro tips” in
cleaning skills, what invasive
species have done to habitat in
their region and how special it
is to live on the border of the
U.S. and Mexico. “The river
unites us,” Crystal declares.
We discussed what the region
would have looked like if invasive
salt cedar (tamarisk) was not
planted for erosion control due
to the loss of grasslands. The
conversation also led to what
they learned about wildlife in the
area. Both docents have become
very familiar with the Mexican
free-tailed bats that call the fort
home, as a part of their duties
are to clean up after the squeaky
little guests.
Park staff have greatly enjoyed
working with these docents and
wish them well as they move to
El Paso, TX for college.
Beastly Bones
By Amber Harrison, Park Inter
Campsites of the Big Bend
Ranch State Park
This document was written and produced by Gary Nored for the Big Bend Ranch State Park
in Texas. It is released under the Creative Commons License for non-profit use as long as
attribution of authorship is included. Commercial use is prohibited without written
permission of the author.
Thanks go to Barrett Durst, park superintendent, who had the idea for the publication and
whose unflagging support helped make it possible. I’d also like to thank David Riskin and all
the other park staff who contributed information and helped ensure that the document is
accurate.
Copyright 2013 by Gary Nored
www.tpwd.texas.gov
i
PWD BK P4501-2059 (2/21)
TPWD receives funds from the USFWS. TPWD prohibits discrimination on the basis of race, color, religion, national origin, disability, age, and
gender, pursuant to state and federal law. To request an accommodation or obtain information in an alternative format, please contact TPWD
on a Text Telephone (TTY) at (512) 389-8915 or by Relay Texas at 7-1-1 or (800) 735-2989 or by email at accessibility@tpwd.texas.gov. If you
believe you have been discriminated against by TPWD, please contact TPWD, 4200 Smith School Road, Austin, TX 78744, or the U.S. Fish
and Wildlife Service, Office for Diversity and Workforce Management, 5275 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 22041.
ii
Introduction
The Big Bend Ranch State Park is the largest state park in Texas and one of the largest state
parks in the country. Within its boundaries you will find limitless opportunities for
exploration and discovery. Silence and solitude, expansive vistas, quiet canyons and dark
skies make the Big Bend Ranch State Park one of the best wilderness experiences in Texas,
and we do everything we can to keep it that way.
We have campsites in the Bofecillos Highlands, the Solitario, the Cienega Mountains and
along the Rio Grande. Sites were selected for their views and/or their proximity to park
attractions. Some are “sleepers” — you may have to walk a bit or climb a nearby hill to see
why we chose them. Others will instantly wow you. But all pay rich dividends to those who
explore the area.
A handfull of campsites are accessible in a passenger vehicle but most are located in remote
areas; the rugged terrain and unimproved dirt roads make access challenging.
High clearance vehicles will take you to many sites; others require high clearance and fourwheel drive to reach. With few exceptions the site you select is yours and yours alone — no
other camps are visible. The silence is palpable and the night skies truly extraordinary.
About This Book
The campsites are arranged alphabetically. For each, a brief description of the area, the
amenities it offers, and the type of vehicle you will need to reach it is accompanied by
photographs. In writing the book I’ve personally visited and camped at every campsite in the
park. The descriptions here reflect my personal experience of the area. The photographs
were all taken within easy walking distance of the campsites and are representative of the
surrounding scenery.
A Few Words About Safety
All deserts are unforgiving environments. Extreme temperatures, low humidity, and lack of
water can be hazardous to the unprepared. While exploring be sure to carry water — lots of
water. Always carry first aid supplies and other self-rescue gear. Carry the park’s Exploration
Map any time you intend to be out of sight of your vehicle, along with a compass and the
knowledge of how to use it. Carry a GPS if you have one and set it to record your “track” as
you go. If at all possible, travel with a partner.
While on the road, be prepared for emergencies. Make sure your tires are in excellent
condition. If at all possible, carry two spares, and make sure you have all your tire changing
gear in the vehicle before you leave. Carry extra water and food along with clothes you can
wear in a variety of conditions — desert weather may change dramatically and quickly! Don’t
rely on cell phones — there’s no service out here.
Above all, please tell the ranger station where you are going and when you expect to return.
This information is vital to park personnel in an emergency.
Gary Nored
iii
Table of Contents
Agua Adentro Pens
2
Mexicano 1 Campsite
54
Arenosa Campground
4
Mexicano 2 Campsite
56
Chorro Vista Campsite
6
Ojo Escondido Campsite
58
Contrabando Campsites
8
Ojo Escondido Pens Campsite
60
Fresno Canyon Campsite
10
Papalote Colorado Campsite
62
Fresno Vista Campsite
12
Papalote Encino Campsite
64
Grassy Banks Campsite
14
Papalote Llano Campsite
66
Guale Mesa 1 Campsite
16
Papalote Llano Nuevo Campsite
68
Guale Mesa 2 Campsite
18
Papalote Nuevo Campsite
70
Jackson Pens Campsite
20
Paso al Solitario Campsite
72
Javelin Campsite
22
Pila de los Muchachos Campsite
74
Javelin Pens Campsite
24
Pila Montoya 1 Campsite
76
La Cuesta Campsite
26
Pila Montoya 2 Campsite
78
La Monilla Campsite
28
Pila Monto
TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE
roads to
nowhere
A guide to unmaintained
4X4 high-clearance roads in
Big Bend Ranch State Parks
By David Riskind and Dan Sholly
El Paso Public Library, Aultman Collection
“We don’t need
no stinkin’
pavement.”
Anonymous (apologies to the screenwriters
of “The Treasure of the Sierra Madre”)
CONTENTS
2
History
3
Basic equipment recommendations
4
For a great outback road trip
6
Additional safety admonitions
7
Roads to nowhere, and back
8
11
13
15
15
Cienega
Solitario
Los Alamos
Camino del Rio
Bocefillos Mountains
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch
HISTORY
There have been trails and
travel routes for people in the
Big Bend for over 10,000 years.
In early historic times Spanish
explorers entered the region.
The military scouted and
blazed trails throughout the
area, including the famous
Echols’ Camel expedition that
used Terneros Creek. Early
traders first used wagons on
the Chihuahua Trail, part of
which traversed Alamito
Creek, in what is now the
northwestern area of Big Bend
Ranch State Park (BBRSP).
By the 1890s, ranching and
mining had begun in earnest,
and by the first decade of the
20th century the first motor
vehicles began using the old
wagon roads. Additional roads
were established with the invention of the bulldozer and
hardier 4X4 trucks. The roads
which are now within BBRSP
were constructed to support
public commerce and settlement, fence building, waterline
construction, livestock production, and for mineral prospecting and mining.
Today - When BBRSP was established in 1988 there were
approximately 700 miles of
these old “ranch and mining”
2
roads within the park, and
about 50 miles of the roads
were kept opened to support
public use. In 2008, the BBRSP
Public Use Plan was approved.
Today this plan allows for 153
miles of road to be used by park
visitors. Of these, nearly 70
miles are unmaintained and
available for those adequately
prepared. All roads in BBRSP
are dirt.
4WD HC – Unmaintained –
These roads are not maintained except by the users.
Roads are not brushed and
may not be passable. Users may
need to use pick and shovel to
fix some sections, especially
creek crossings or eroded
areas. Desert pin-striping
(brush scratches) is likely.
The “4WD HC – unmaintained” roads provide a different kind of opportunity for
park users. There are approxi-
mately 70 miles of park roads
that are not maintained, but
which are available for visitors
to travel at their own risk.
These roads will lead visitors to
less-traveled, and in most cases,
very remote and beautiful desert
landscapes. Unmaintained roads
in BBRSP are not considered
“extreme 4X4.” There is no rock
crawling or rating system, and
not every mile requires 4X4.
These roads simply are not
maintained, which means they
are rougher and more difficult
and challenging to travel.
Unmaintained roads of
BBRSP should only be attempted by experienced 4X4
drivers, with a capable vehicle
and adequate “self-rescue”
equipment. These roads are not
patrolled on a regular basis. You
are pretty much “on your own”
should you have a problem.
!
Road guides available
upon request.
Basic equipment recommendations
Special preparation highly recommended!
•Two well-maintained 4X4 highclearance vehicles. It is always
safer to travel in pairs.
• 6-ply tires - absolute minimum
• Two inflated spare tires
• Plenty of fuel (there is NO fuel for
sale in BBRSP)
• Work gloves
• Good maps of the area
• GPS with extra batteries
• First aid kit
• 4-way lug wrench
• Air pump
• Shovel and pick
• Rock bar
• High-lift jack - at least 48 inches
• Heavy-duty nylon recovery strap
(3”wide x 20’ long - no hooks)
• 10’ chain with hooks
• Tool kit
• Abundant drinking water
(at least 5 gallons extra)
• Food for at least two days
www.tpwd.state.tx.us/bigbendranch | 3
FOR A GREAT OUTBACK
ROAD TRIP
“Show me a 4X4 driver who has never been stuck, and
I will show you a 4X4 driver who has not been down
many bad roads.” Anonymous
For a great “outback” roadtrip: Roads may be overgrown
with the ubiquitous white-thorn
acacia or other desert shrubs,
and your vehicle will be exposed
to desert pin-striping. Your
trusty steed will get scratched
and very dirty. Those who
choose to drive unmaintained
BBRSP roads (Special Use Permit required) may have to fill
the washout, rut or track to
progress. If your four-wheel
drive goes out, you may get
stuck. You must use these roads
ever-mindful of the consequences of your driving skill and
be prepared for self-extraction.
These roads are old ranch roads
for the most part. They were installed with economy of effort.
They are short wheel-base roads
4
where a high angle of attack is
required. If you have a big honking front bumper or running
boards, or a receiver hitch with
a removable three-ball setup, be
prepared to either modify your
rig or get stuck in a steep, short
dip. If your vehicle’s exhaust
tailpipe hangs low and is not up
and out of the way, it is going to
get rearranged! If your towing
wiring harness is
INTRODUCTION
The geology of the lower Fresno Canyon area
includes rock deposits that represent the diverse
geological history of the Big Bend region. The
rocks visible in the area span the time frame from
Cretaceous to recent (~100 million years to present).
The Cretaceous rocks were deposited during the
last major marine transgression onto the North
American continent, in a shallow inland sea that
extended from Texas to Alaska.
These deposits are divided into two groups, an
older group that represents the maximum of this
transgression (“Comanchean” group) and a later
group that represents a time when the sea was
receding (“Gulfian” group). As the Cretaceous sea
was receding, a major mountain building event
referred to as the Laramide orogeny caused regional
folding and faulting. This is the event that created
the Rocky Mountains. Locally, this event uplifted
the Cretaceous limestones and resulted in the
deposition of coarse gravel deposits due to the
erosion of the uplifted rocks. Volcanism from 48
million to 17 million years ago followed the Laramide
orogeny. This volcanism occurred throughout what
is now west Texas, and in the Fresno canyon area,
the volcanic products include basalts, rhyolites and
tuffaceous rocks. Associated with this volcanism
was the intrusion of a large magma mass that
uplifted the overlying rocks to form the Solitario
dome and other smaller domes in the area.
Following the volcanism, the area experienced
a period of deformation associated with crustal
extension. During this period, strike slip faults and
other structures developed small basins in the area.
This faulting began as the volcanism was waning,
and continues in an abated form to this day.
Our current terrain has developed through the
modern evolution of the Rio Grande Basin and
with contributions by natural landscape processes,
especially erosion. In our area these drainages
include Fresno, Contrabando and Commanche
creeks. The landscape we observe today has been
subjected to further modification through a myriad
of anthropogenic episodes (land-uses) in addition
to ongoing natural processes.
This guide briefly describes five locations in the
Rincon Loop area that represent this diverse
geologic history. The text is based upon the
author’s knowledge and Henry, 1998.
View west of Rincon Mountain and Arroyo Mexicano from
stop 4. The mountain is capped with basalt. The rock
debris in the foreground is peralkaline rhyolite from the
mountain due south of this stop.
actual fragmentation of the lava as it hardened.
One can see evidence of this in the boulders
near the trail.
5
The Jeff Conglomerate
This stop is located in Fresno Creek. It is best
accessed by walking up the creek 20 meters
from where the trail enters the creek from
the north. From here we can see Chisos strata
to the east similar to what we saw at stop 3.
A layer visible at the bottom of these rocks,
and on top of the Cretaceous strata, is the
Jeff conglomerate. This is a coarse gravel
conglomerate composed of rounded limestone
clasts (Comanchean series) and basalt that is
a basal conglomerate for the Tertiary section
of rocks in this area. The conglomerate formed
as the result of erosion of the Terlingua uplift
associated with the Laramide orogeny.
Henry, Christopher D. 1998. “Geology of Big Bend Ranch
State Park, Texas.” Guidebook - Bureau Of Economic
Geology, University Of Texas At Austin.
PWD BR P4501-0152U (6/15)
In accordance with Texas State Depository Law, this
publication is available at the Texas State Publications
Clearinghouse and/or Texas Depository Libraries.
TPWD receives funds from the USFWS. TPWD prohibits discrimination on the basis
of race, color, religion, national origin, disability, age, and gender, pursuant to state
and federal law. To request an accommodation or obtain information in an alternative
format, please contact TPWD on a Text Telephone (TDD) at (512) 389-8915 or by Relay
Texas at 7-1-1 or (800) 735-2989. If you believe you have been discriminated against by
TPWD, please contact TPWD or the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, Office for Diversity
and Workforce Management, 5275 Leesburg Pike, Falls Church, VA 22041.
D
N
E
B
BIGANCH
R PARK
E
T
A
T
S
Rincon Loop
Geology Tour
by Kevin Urbanczyk
4
5
3
2
1
intruded into one of the Gulfian series rock
units referred to as the Boquillas formation.
You can see it as the dark wedge shaped rock
outcrop in the cliff across the canyon.
2
Flower Structure
To the west across the small arroyo where you
can see evidence of a particular style of strike
slip faulting referred to as transpressional.
This strike slip faulting with a component
of compression. A careful observation of the
outcrop here reveals individual wedge shaped
segments of Boquillas flagstone, wide at the
top, pushed upward to form the “flower.”
Drag folds can be seen, particularly in the
north section visible to the right in the
following image (folded rocks delineated
in red, offset indicated by green arrows):
Qal, ls
Early maps call this area Saucita—
Thank you for visiting
Sauceda Historic District.
We hope you enjoyed your stay.
But don’t stop now.
Big Bend Ranch State Park
has even more to offer.
Explore!
COVER IMAGES
Unidentified ranch hand with J.M. Fowlkes, Jr.
on Grey Boy at tack room, c. 1942.
Courtesy of the Fowlkes family
B.F. Hill and guide during a 1902 mineral
survey sponsored by the University of Texas’s
Bureau of Economic Geology. The structure
was likely built by rancher Theo Barnhart in
the 1880s or by W.W. Bogel at the turn of the
20th century. The site is located west of the
nearby arroyo near Sauceda.
Briscoe Center for American History,
University of Texas, Austin
4200 Smith School Road
Austin, TX 78744
www.tpwd.state.tx.us
PWD BR P4501-152K (6/12)
In accordance with Texas State Depository Law, this
publication is available at the Texas State Publications
Clearinghouse and/or Texas Depository Libraries.
TPWD receives federal assistance from the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
and other federal agencies. TPWD is therefore subject to Title VI of the
Civil Rights Act of 1964, Section 504 of the Rehabilitation Act of 1973, Title
II of the Americans with Disabilities Act of 1990, the Age Discrimination
Act of 1975, Title IX of the Education Amendments of 1972, in addition to
state anti-discrimination laws. TPWD will comply with state and federal
laws prohibiting discrimination based on race, color, national origin, age,
sex or disability. If you believe that you have been discriminated against
in any TPWD program, activity or event, you may contact the U.S. Fish
and Wildlife Service, Division of Federal Assistance, 4401 N. Fairfax Drive,
Mail Stop: MBSP-4020, Arlington, VA 22203, Attention: Civil Rights
Coordinator for Public Access.
named for the willows growing around
Walking Guide to the
a spring that once flowed in the nearby
Sauceda
arroyo. Its name evolved to “Sauceda”
over time. One century ago, what we
now call the historic district looked
quite different: the buildings were
Historic District
Big Bend Ranch
State Park
fewer and less refined than today.
Just fifty years ago, Sauceda was a
shipping hub with many pens and
PHOTO BY DOUG PORTER
The tract surrounding Sauceda was the second one
settled by George A. Howard who originally occupied
nearby uplands where he established the Chillicothe
Ranch. He then purchased this site to form the
Chillicothe-Saucita Ranch in 1905 and developed the
core of the historic district’s main building. Howard
moved to Marfa and Gus, Gallie, and Graves Bogel—
sons of the early Presidio County settler and rancher
W.W. Bogel, who lived to the north on Alamito Creek—
acquired the land by 1915.
The Bogel sons established their ranch headquarters
here. They began running stock on the once rich grasslands of the surrounding plateau, turning later to raising
sheep and goats. In the years before the widespread use
of barbed wire, stone fences helped manage the livestock,
and the fences stand today as reminders of the Bogels’
enterprise. By 1923, the Chillicothe-Saucita Ranch
exceeded 25,000 acres.
The Bogel brothers introduced their brides to this place
and modified the complex to suit their growing families
and ranching needs. Gus’s wife, Maude, remembered
seeing Sauceda Ranch for the first time, describing it
as “beautiful, [with] a running creek just in back of the
house—and beautiful cottonwood trees on both sides of
the stream. There were several places where natural
waterfalls and clear deep pools with beautiful maidenhair ferns were growing around the falls.” World War I
interrupted the ranch’s calm when members of the
Bogel family were called into military service. Drought
and the Great Depression finished off many family
ranches in the area, and by 1934 the brothers were
forced to sell their ranch.
corrals extending over several acres.
ranch viable. Fowlkes’ employees built long stretches of
wire fences and built stone dams for water and erosion
control; they laid hundreds of miles of pipelines, along with
accompanying water storage and distribution facilities,
in order to move water for stock to the far-flung reaches
of the huge and rugged tract. But drought and a crash of
the global wool market, combined with the family’s ambitious ranch expansion, forced the Fowlkeses off the land.
Like many prosperous Texans during the 1950s, Midland
oilman and lawyer Len G. (Tuffy) McCormick wanted a
bigger ranch, so he bought one that was described as half
the size of Rhode Island and among the 15 largest in the
United States: he called it Big Bend Ranch and formed
the Big Bend Ranch Corporation to manage it. Purchased
in 1958 from banking institutions that held notes on the
ranch, McCormick had it mapped (including pastures,
roads, and waterlines), and he built the bunkhouse, pole
barn and several outbuildings. He arranged for the
upgrading of a river access road, which is now the scenic
Camino del Rio, by granting an easement to the Texas
Highway Department. But
BIG BEND RANCH STATE PARK
4
Blaine R. Hall
Geology at the Crossroads
By Blaine R. Hall
Crossroads: Intersection,
Junction, Gathering Place. Big
Bend Ranch State Park (BBRSP)
has been all of these for at least
the last 11,000 years as Native
Americans, ranchers, miners,
freighters, travelers, and now park
visitors have lived and traveled
here. The scenery is magnificent
and the landscape varies from river
lowlands, through deep canyons,
across high plateaus, and up steep
mountains. Ultimately all of this
is controlled by the character and
variety of the underlying geology
and the processes that created it
over millions of years.
hi
an
Rocky
Mountains
Trans-Pecos
Volcanic Field
1
A
N
D
E
Adapted by Blaine R. Hall
G
R
3
Buri
ed
Bur
ied
Marathon Llano
Uplift
Basin
Big Bend
Ranch
State Park
2
Big Bend
National
Park
4
evident in the white band of rocks
that bends and contorts along the
hillside and across the saddle.
2
Rocky Mountain Trend.
About 200 million years
later, the park area was again
covered by an ocean basin,
but this time the rocks were
deposited in a shallow, near-shore
environment and consisted
mostly of thick-bedded limestone,
shale, and sandstone. The second
major geological event, building
the Rocky Mountains, was
completed about 50 Ma. here
in West Texas. This time the
folding, faulting, and uplift was
driven by compression originating
at the western margin of North
America. Photo 2 shows how this
event caused once-horizontal
reddish and grey rocks to bend
and fold from left to right. This
one-sided fold marks what is
known as the Fresno-Terlingua
Monocline, located along the
southeastern edge of the park in
the Contrabando area.
Trans-Pecos Volcanic
Field. Undoubtedly the
most dramatic geological event
affecting the area was strong
volcanism that occurred between
3
Trends of four major geological
events converge at the park.
Colored numbers indicate where
each can be viewed.
3
Blaine R. Hall
2
Blaine R. Hall
Blaine R. Hall
Appalachian/Ouachita/
Marathon/Solitario Trend.
Around 520 Ma. (million years
ago) sandstone, conglomerate,
limestone, shale, and chert formed
in an ocean basin offshore from
ancient North America. By 300 Ma.
this old ocean was closed up and
the rocks were strongly deformed
and uplifted as what is now Africa
collided with eastern North
America to form the Appalachian
Mountains. Concurrently, South
America crashed into the southern
edge of North America to form
the Ouachita Mountains. This
same event closed the old ocean
further to the south, extending the
mountain trend into West Texas.
The strongly deformed rocks that
are present today in the Marathon
Basin can also be seen at BBRSP.
Photo 1 documents this mountainbuilding event, where highly folded
and faulted rocks are exposed in the
interior walls of the Solitario. The
strong deformation is particularly
c
la
pa
Ap
Ouachita Mountains
1
1
4
Mo
un
tain
s
Basin
and
Range
R I O
But why a crossroads of geology?
A look at the geological map above
can answer that question just by
following the variously colored areas
to their convergence in the Big Bend
region. The trends illustrated here
represent the four major events that
have shaped North America over the
past 500+ million years, and all of
them are represented in the park. So,
get in your car, mount up your horse,
hop on your bike or strike up a hike
and visit the Crossroads of Geology!
Road, and the Oso Loop passes
directly through it.
47 Ma. and 18 Ma. throughout
western North America. The
large Trans-Pecos Volcanic
Field was created at this time
by the eruption of molten rock,
called magma, which originated
from a slab of oceanic crust
driven from the west deep
underground and then melted.
This volcanism had the most
direct and profound effect of the
four events at BBRSP and is the
most completely represented.
The Bofecillos Mountains make
up the high, central part of the
park and were formed at 27 Ma.
by the eruption of very extensive
lava flows and abundant volcanic
ash that forms rock called tuff.
The interior of the Bofecillos
Mountains is characterized by
high rugged peaks marking old
eruption sites and level plateaus
where lava flows accumulated,
while the edges of the mountains
are incised by deep canyon
drainages. Photo 3 provides a view
of the central Bofecillos vent area,
a source for most of the lavas and
tuffs comprising the mountains.
On the left is Oso Mountain, the
highest peak in the Park at 5135
feet. The vent area is readily
accessible from the Main Park
Basin and Range Trend.
The fourth geological event
is marked by development of the
Basin and Range Province. The
map illustrates how the Basin
and Range is characterized by
north-trending mountains and
intervening sediment-filled valleys
or basins, which began forming
about 25 Ma. These uplifted
ranges and down-dropped basins
are separated by parallel faults.
This deformation is due to the
west-to-east stretching of the
earth’s crust that may have
been caused
TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE
BIRDS
OF
BIG BEND RANCH
STATE PA RK A ND VICINIT Y
Including Lajitas, Redford, Presidio, Ruidosa, Candelaria, Shafter,
Casa Piedra and Terlingua; also Chinati Mountains State Natural Area
A FIELD CHECKLIST
2011
Cover: Illustration of Black-tailed Gnatcatcher by Jeremy Boehm.
INTRODUCTION
N
ot to be confused with the similarly named national
park to the east, Big Bend Ranch State Park, located in
extreme southeastern Presidio County, encompasses
280,000 acres of vast Chihuahuan Desert habitat including
grasslands, desert scrub, canyons, riparian woodlands and
thickets, streams, rivers and numerous permanent springs. The
bulk of the park includes the Bofecillos Mountains, an extinct
volcano, and its outlier alluvial fans that form a mountainous
plateau averaging 4,000 feet elevation. As such, the majority of the landscape is dominated by igneous soils and rock;
however, a number of areas include outcrops of sedimentary
rock (limestone) especially along Cienega Creek in the northwestern portion of the park.
A prominent feature of the park is The Solitario, a collapsed volcanic dome or lacolith, approximately 10 miles in
diameter, which pushed up several concentric geologic layers
that are now exposed through the harsh actions of erosion.
Overall, the geology of the park is as diverse as any comparable
location in the United States. The climate of the area is warm
to hot year-round; rainfall averages 8-10 inches per year, most
of which (approximately 75%) falls during the late summer/
early fall monsoon season. The lowest elevation in the park
is near Lajitas (approximately 2,300'), where the Rio Grande
continues its pathway southeastward. The highest elevation
is Oso Peak at 5,135'.
Big Bend Ranch State Park was acquired in 1988. Long
known as the Diamond ‘A’ Cattle Company, its ranching heritage
dates back to the 1850s for limited portions of the property
and to the 1880s for the bulk of the park. Sheep, goats, beef
cattle, horses, exotic game animals and longhorns occupied
the land at various periods of the ranching operation; only
desert-hardy longhorns and some horses survived the harsh
environment and were present at the time of acquisition.
Artifacts of that heritage still persist today; watering structures
1
such as windmills, concrete troughs and dirt tanks provide
locations for productive birding at times. Albeit, the landscape
is adorned with numerous springs and permanent streams.
Most of the deeper canyons have permanent water of some
kind that is a great benefit to all species of wildlife.
In many areas deep pools of persistent standing water
called “tinajas” supplement water resources year round. Springs
and streams are usually found in association with riparian
woodlands (cottonwood-willow-hackberry and shrub thickets)
which are often the most productive habitats for bird diversity
and abundance. An area easily accessed by park visitors is Ojito
Adentro (wayside stop #4) where a trail from the parking area
traverses through desert scrub, then into riparian woodlands.
This area serves as a prime representative of similar locations
and habitats within this vast park and should be productive for
birding at most times of the year. A 30' waterfall (seasonal)
defines the limit of the woodland and is an excellent location
to sit quietly and absorb the sights and sounds of a moist and
cool desert enclave.
Typical of many Chihuahuan Desert settings, common
to abundant resident birds include such species as Red-tailed
Hawk, Scaled Quail, White-winged and Mourning Dove, Greater
Roadrunner, Ladder-backed Woodpecker, Say’s Phoebe, Loggerhead Shrike, Verdin, Cactus, Rock, Canyon and Bewick’s Wren,
Black-tailed Gnatcatcher, Northern Mockingbird, Curve-billed
and Crissal Thrasher, Canyon Towhee, Rufous-crowned and
Black-throated Sparrow and Pyrrhuloxia. In aquatic-related
habitats such as pools, streams and marshes (called cienegas)
one can expect to find birds typically associated with these
habitats including waterfowl, rails, Common Moorhen, American
Coot, shorebirds, Black Phoebe, Vermilion Flycatcher, swallows,
Marsh Wren, Common Yellowthroat and Red-winged Blackbird.
A number of locations in close proximity to the Sauceda
Headquarters can be accessed to watch birds. These include
Cinco Tinajas, Leyva Canyon and its associated drainage and
the Llano Pasture loop road.
2
Winter months can often be very productive in desert
scrub and desert grassland settings. Look for various species
of sparrows including but not limited to Green-tailed and
Spotted Towhees, Brewer’s Sparrow, Vesper Sparrow, Sage
Sparrow, Lark Bunting, Savannah Sparrow, White-crowned
Sparrow and Dark-eyed Junco. Longspurs have been observed
in the vicinity of the airport runway just east of Sauceda. In
these desert settings in winter, look for pools of water, which
have persisted from the rains the previous summer and/or fall.
Hundreds, sometimes thousands of birds will make multiple
trips daily to t
TEXAS PARKS & WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT
BIG BEND REGION
COLORING BOOK
Welcome to the beautiful Big Bend Country!
People come from all over the world to see this
part of Texas. Take a tour of the state parks with
us and learn about the animals that live here!
The Chihuahuan Desert runs through here down to Mexico. The only
mountains in the state are found here. Hueco Tanks has precious rock
art from long ago. El Paso is the biggest city in the Big Bend region and
is surrounded by the Franklin Mountains. Turn the page for more fun
facts and adventure!
This mountain lion is watching over her cubs. The scaled quail are
looking for bugs and seeds to eat.
The Peregrine Falcon is one of the fastest birds in the world! It can
fly up to 175 miles per hour! It will live on tall buildings and swoop
down to catch and eat small birds.
Tarantulas are big, hairy spiders. They have 8 eyes! They live in
burrows and eat bugs. Although they may look scary, they aren’t
especially dangerous. Female tarantulas can live to be 25 years old!
This Texas tortoise is eating a cactus for lunch. The tortoise may
live to be 60 years old! There are not many Texas tortoise left and
it is illegal to take one out of the wild. Can you find the Texas
Horned Lizard? It’s the state reptile!
Roadrunners are birds that run very fast. They are fast enough to
catch and eat lizards and even rattlesnakes!
Black-tailed jackrabbits are big, about the size of a cat. Because
they have many young, it’s important to have predators such as
hawks, coyotes, foxes and bobcats.
Long ago, the Indians who lived here painted pictures on the walls
of caves. They painted shapes, people and animals.
Dinosaur bones were found in ancient rocks in this part of Texas.
Tyrannosaurus rex once roamed here!
Big Bend Baffler
J
A
R
I
D
H
P
S
L
S
V
S
E
K
A
N
S
E
L
T
T
A
R
W
D
A
E
O
H
U
Z
S
I
E
L
W
R
V
O
N
M
H
H
T
Z
E
O
J
D
S
V
Z
Z
E
D
E
O
H
C
O
H
A
S
R
E
H
T
N
A
P
J
D
E
A
T
E
T
C
A
H
C
S
I
H
P
F
S
Z
A
T
A
A
U
T
I
D
L
L
M
N
L
O
W
C
X
A
I
I
U
E
V
O
H
U
Y
D
G
Q
D
P
I
U
K
G
T
I
L
A
B
Y
H
H
G
G
S
U
Z
L
W
R
K
S
N
Q
C
T
J
M
N
H
N
P
A
T
E
F
C
I
U
T
P
H
N
S
W
Q
N
J
A
N
S
U
E
H
D
A
M
R
A
D
N
B
B
I
R
M
B
A
T
O
C
O
T
A
V
E
S
A
U
I
S
D
M
W
C
K
D
W
L
W
N
A
U
A
Q
M
E
R
J
G
M
B
S
Z
Z
Y
J
B
O
R
K
D
Q
L
G
K
D
H
N
S
P
A
M
V
J
I
S
N
J
D
S
W
V
L
Y
J
P
R
A
L
V
S
A
K
F
T
G
I
E
T
N
R
O
O
B
W
U
O
X
N
M
V
I
N
F
S
N
U
S
U
E
E
T
T
R
O
O
I
S
D
L
R
C
N
J
G
G
O
C
R
K
V
H
D
E
G
G
U
R
R
L
E
L
D
U
X
A
P
C
S
E
C
C
G
T
R
N
I
N
G
B
Z
F
Z
F
E
M
L
P
W
S
P
V
K
U
T
P
M
O
O
O
M
H
N
Y
U
W
L
H
K
R
S
J
M
M
A
P
V
I
U
L
G
U
A
Y
H
G
C
F
S
Y
R
Y
O
N
J
E
E
Q
I
S
O
R
R
V
F
E
D
L
Y
O
T
R
I
T
C
L
I
W
B
I
M
O
D
F
Z
L
N
N
Z
R
R
N
G
A
V
T
V
A
W
N
N
I
O
B
R
E
X
T
C
D
A
B
E
T
U
U
F
T
O
D
A
E
O
P
I
F
Q
R
Z
U
R
V
T
U
L
L
T
H
N
H
G
S
P
R
D
A
O
S
A
H
P
Z
D
M
Y
T
L
D
S
T
R
A
N
S
P
E
C
O
S
A
D
U
T
D
W
S
R
C
P
Y
X
U
K
K
B
V
E
V
W
C
P
P
U
T
E
V
N
G
Z
R
L
C
E
X
R
E
C
R
R
F
R
A
N
K
L
I
N
I
D
M
U
V
C
O
U
G
A
R
S
K
O
Y
W
T
S
S
N
I
A
T
N
U
O
M
O
M
T
Y
X
S
A
M
U
P
R
G
A
B
B
Z
X
F
Y
A
V
C
Y
I
M
C
A
N
Y
O
N
G
G
J
R
T
J
J
Q
Y
Search for descriptive words, places, and wildlife of the Big Bend Region!
APACHES
ARID
BIG BEND
CHIHUAHUAN DESERT
CHISOS
COUGARS
COYOTES
DAVIS
DELICATE
EXTREMES
FOLSOM
FRANKLIN
GUADALUPE
HUECO TANKS
JAVELINAS
LECHUGUILLA
MOUNTAIN LIONS
MOUNTAINS
NOCTURNAL
PANTHERS
PICTOGRAPHS
ROADRUNNERS
ROCK ART
PUMAS
RATTLESNAKES
RUGGED
SEMINOLE CANYON
SNOWY
SUCCULENT
SURVIVAL
TARATULAS
TRANSPECOS
WOODED SLOPE
Davis Mountain State Park
P.O. Box 1707, TX Hwy 118N, Park Road 3 Fort Davis, Texas 79734 432-426-3337
Indian Lodge State Park
P.O. Box 1707, TX Hwy 118N, Park Road 3 Fort Davis, Texas 79734 432-426-3254
Hike mile high trails and bask in the warmth of a
rustic lodge as you watch for Montezuma Quail.
Davis Mountain State Park, nestled over a mile high in the Davis Mountains has over ten miles of hiking trails including a scenic trail
to Fort Davis National Historic Site. The Park has primitive camping along with developed camping areas with water, electricity, and
rest rooms. If your idea of roughing it includes a motel room, Davis Mountain State Park surrounds Indian Lodge State Park, a full
service, historic southwestern adobe style lodge constructed by the Civilian Conservation Corps in the 1930s and features the
original interiors and furnishings. The Lodge offers a swimming pool, gift shop and the Black Bear Restaurant on the grounds.
The two parks are located in Jeff Davis County about 4 miles North of Fort Davis, Texas on Texas Highway 118.
Balmorhea State Park
P. O. Box 15 Toyahvale, Texas 79786 432-375-2370
See the endangered Comanche Springs Pupfish
at San Solomon Cienega, a recreated desert
wetland, and swim in a huge spring fed pool.
Dive into the cool waters of the world’s largest spring-fed swimming pool—that covers 1.75 acres and stays at 76-78
degrees year-round. Scuba divers love the clarity even at a 25-ft. depth. In addition to swimming and camping, the San Solomon
Courts