by Alex Gugel , all rights reserved
Fort DavisNational Historic Site - Texas |
Fort Davis National Historic Site is located in the unincorporated community of Fort Davis, Jeff Davis County, Texas. Located within the Davis Mountains of West Texas, the historic site was established in 1961 to protect one of the best remaining examples of a United States Army fort in the southwestern United States.
featured in
![]() | National Parks Pocket Maps | ![]() |
![]() | Texas Pocket Maps | ![]() |
location
maps
Map of the U.S. National Park System. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Map of the U.S. National Park System with DOI's Unified Regions. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Map of the U.S. National Heritage Areas. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
brochures
Official Brochure of Fort Davis National Historic Site (NHS) in Texas. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
https://www.nps.gov/foda/index.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fort_Davis_National_Historic_Site
Fort Davis National Historic Site is located in the unincorporated community of Fort Davis, Jeff Davis County, Texas. Located within the Davis Mountains of West Texas, the historic site was established in 1961 to protect one of the best remaining examples of a United States Army fort in the southwestern United States.
Fort Davis is one of the best surviving examples of an Indian Wars' frontier military post in the Southwest. From 1854 to 1891, Fort Davis was strategically located to protect emigrants, mail coaches, and freight wagons on the Trans-Pecos portion of the San Antonio-El Paso Road and on the Chihuahua Trail.
We are approximately 2.5 hours south of Midland/Odessa starting on I-20 to HWY 17, 3.5 hours North West of Del Rio starting on HWY 90 to HWY 118, 4 hours east of El Paso starting on I-10 to HWY 118 and 7 hours west of San Antonio starting on I-10 to HWY 17.
Visitor Center
Fort Davis National Historic Site has one Visitor Center where you can pay the entrance fee, receive orientation, grounds map, and watch the parks introductory video.
We are located in the Big Bend region of Texas approximately 4 hours east of El Paso and 7 hours West of San Antonio. Big Bend National Park is 2 hours away.
Parade Ground
Garrison Flag flying over the post.
Garrison flag flying over the post within the box canyon Fort Davis is located.
Artillery Crew
Artillery Crew stands at the ready
The Artillery Crew stand ready for orders to post at their positions and fire the U.S. 3-inch Ordnance Rifle.
Kitchen
Two ladies working in the kitchen
Special events bring back the smells of an 1800s Kitchen
Cavalry
Soldier mounted on his horse
The U.S. Cavalry was utilized at Fort Davis for most of its existence. Here a soldier shows off the uniform and equipment of the 1800s.
Fall Colors
Building and trees at Fort Davis during the fall with yellow leaves.
This sky island habitat is known for its dramatic season changes. Fall brings the end of our rainy season allowing the bright yellow Cottonwoods to shine. In spring /summer waving grasses and wildflowers show off their vivid colors once again.
African Americans in the Frontier Army
Following the Civil War, permanent African American regiments were constructed in the United States Army. Although segregated due to race, these regiments served with honor and distinction, and helped to tame the Wild West.
Painting showing African American soldiers in New Mexico in the 1870s
It’s Alive! Biological Soil Crusts of the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts
It might come as a surprise to learn that in the sublime expanses of the Sonoran and Chihuahuan deserts, some of the most interesting life around can be found in the dirt right in front of your feet! Biological soil crusts form a living groundcover that is the foundation of desert plant life.
Soil crust at White Sands National Monument
The History of the Spring Enclosure
Historical archeologists see if archeological remains verify what is written, or tell a different story. Verifying the written record unraveled and documented the stone masonry of the spring enclosure at Fort Davis. Was the existing spring enclosure actually a reconstruction built in the 1940s? If it was a reconstruction, was it built in the original location? If some portion of the original masonry was left, what was original and what was reconstructed?
A portion of Fort Davis ca. 1888. Photograph courtesy of Fort Davis National Historic Site.
The First African American Graduate of West Point
In 1877 Henry O. Flipper became the first African American to ever graduate from the United States Military Academy at West Point. However, his image was soured by events four years later when he was dismissed from the Army, and for 117 years his court martial tarnished his good name.
Climate Change and the Chihuahuan Desert
The Chihuahuan Desert Network is currently developing protocols to monitor several vital signs that may reflect current and future impacts of climate change. This brief offers a summary of how Chihuahuan Desert Network monitoring will detect future change.
Smith Springs is one of many springs that serve as a water source for plants & animals in the CHDN.
Fort Davis National Historic Site Reptile and Amphibian Inventory
Fort Davis NHS is located in the highly diverse Davis Mountains and is small enough that the researchers and a park partner were able to survey most of the site. The majority of the search was focused on Hospital Canyon, the flats surrounding and north of the fort ruins, and the trail system.
Big Bend tree lizard atop a lichen-covered boulder
NPS Geodiversity Atlas—Fort Davis National Historic Site, Texas
Fort Davis National Historic Site contains one of the most intact examples of a post-Civil War frontier fort in the American Southwest. It is located in the Davis Mountains that were formed by volcanic activity over a three-million-year period that ended approximately 35 million years ago. The cliffs above the fort are made of the volcanic Sleeping Lion Formation display well-developed columnar jointing.
agave plant and arid landscape
Fort Davis Fern Inventory
In the Trans-Pecos, ferns and their allies either flourish or become dormant in response to limited available moisture. If conditions are dry, many of the xeric (dry environment) ferns respond by curling up and going into a dormant stage, only to revive and actively grow again when water becomes available.
Closeup of a windham cloak fern
Air Quality in the Chihuahuan Desert
Three park units in the Chihuahuan Desert Network, Big Bend National Park (NP), Carlsbad Caverns NP, and Guadalupe Mountains NP are designated as Class I air quality areas under the Clean Air Act. Class I areas receive the highest protection under the act, and degradation of air quality must be minimal. Air quality concerns include atmospheric deposition effects and visibility impairment from fine particle haze.
Rugged landscape under a partly cloudy sky at Big Bend National Park
Monitoring Upland Vegetation and Soils in the Sonoran Desert and Chihuahuan Desert Networks
Vegetation and soils are two of many natural resources monitored by the National Park Service (NPS) Division of Inventory & Monitoring (I&M). Learning about vegetation dynamics helps us to better understand the integrity of ecological processes, productivity trends, and ecosystem interactions that can otherwise be difficult to monitor. In NPS units of the American Southwest, three I&M networks monitor vegetation and soils using the scientific protocol described here.
Quadrat used for biological soil crust sampling
The War and Westward Expansion
With Federal resources focused on waging the war farther east, both native tribes and the Confederacy attempted to claim or reclaim lands west of the Mississippi. The Federal government responded with measures (Homestead Act, transcontinental railroad) and military campaigns designed to encourage settlement, solidify Union control of the trans-Mississippi West, and further marginalize the physical and cultural presence of tribes native to the West.
Painting Westward the Course of Empire Takes its Way showing settlers moving into the American west
Exotic Plants Monitoring in the Southern Plains and Chihuahuan Desert
National parks, like other publicly managed lands, are deluged by new exotic species arriving through predictable (e.g., road, trail, and riparian corridors), sudden (e.g., long distance dispersal through cargo containers and air freight), and unexpected anthropogenic pathways (e.g., weed seeds mixed in with restoration planting mixes).
Landscape with a uniform, green foreground consisting of invasive kochia
10th Cavalry at Fort Larned
Co. A of the 10th U.S. Cavalry was stationed at Fort Larned from April 1867 to January 1869. Although they served with dedication, their time at the fort was troubled by racial prejudice.
Men on horseback in 19th century U.S. Army uniforms.
Southern Basin and Range
The Southern Basin and Range is an extension of the Basin and Range Province centered on Nevada and the Great Basin and extending from southern Oregon to western Texas, and into northwest Mexico.
Mountains and Desert in Guadalupe Mountains National Park
The Changing War
Begun as a purely military effort with the limited political objectives of reunification (North) or independence (South), the Civil War transformed into a social, economic and political revolution with unforeseen consequences. As the war progressed, the Union war effort steadily transformed from a limited to a hard war; it targeted not just Southern armies, but the heart of the Confederacy's economy, morale, and social order-the institution of slavery.
Woodcut of spectators watching a train station set fire by Sherman's troops
Climate Monitoring in the Southern Plains, Sonoran Desert, and Chihuahuan Desert
Climate is one of many ecological indicators monitored by the National Park Service (NPS) Division of Inventory & Monitoring (I&M). Climate data help scientists to understand ecosystem processes and help to explain many of the patterns and trends observed in other natural-resource monitoring. In NPS units of the American Southwest, three I&M networks monitor climate using the scientific protocol described here.
Kayaking across a fl ooded parking lot, Chickasaw NRA, July 2007.
JROTC and NPS Collaboration – Expanding Our Stories
Over the course of the 2018-19 academic years, the National Park Service’s Washington, DC Office of Interpretation, Education and Volunteers (WASO IEV), with support from Kutztown University, has overseen a series of pilot programs aimed to facilitate unique, place-based learning experiences in national parks for military youth throughout the United States.
Series: Chihuahuan Desert Network Reptile and Amphibian Inventories
In 2003 and 2004, the University of Arizona conducted an inventory of reptiles and amphibians (herpetofauna) in six National Park Service Chihuahuan Desert Network parks. Primary objectives of this inventory were to document reptile and amphibian species, map the distribution of all species found, and determine a rough relative abundance for each species.
Trans-Pecos ratsnake
Series: Defining the Southwest
The Southwest has a special place in the American imagination – one filled with canyon lands, cacti, roadrunners, perpetual desert heat, a glaring sun, and the unfolding of history in places like Tombstone and Santa Fe. In the American mind, the Southwest is a place without boundaries – a land with its own style and its own pace – a land that ultimately defies a single definition.
Maize agriculture is one component of a general cultural definition of the Southwest.
Series: Seasonal Inventory of Birds in Low Elevation Chihuahuan Desert Riparian Habitats
In 2004, independent researchers began conducting a three-year inventory of birds in low-elevation riparian (stream-side) habitats in the National Park Service’s Chihuahuan Desert Network. The goals of this study were to (1) document the presence, richness, and abundance of bird species; (2) compare results to existing information about park birds and update park checklists; and (3) provide baseline data and site evaluations that may be used to develop bird monitoring programs in the Network.
Bird survey site in Guadalupe Mountains National Park
Climate and Groundwater Monitoring at Fort Davis National Historic Site
Climate and hydrology are major drivers of ecosystem structure and function, particularly in arid and semi-arid ecosystems. The Chihuahuan Desert Inventory and Monitoring Network monitors climate at Fort Davis National Historic Site and groundwater wells near the park. Understanding climate and water resources is an important part of assessing the condition of park biota and cultural resources.
A tall stalk with yellow flowers extending up from the browning, sharp blades of an agave.
Making an Impact: Long-Term Monitoring of Natural Resources at Intermountain Region National Parks, 2021
Across the Intermountain Region, Inventory & Monitoring Division ecologists are helping to track the effects of climate change, provide baseline information for resource management, evaluate new technologies, and inspire the next generation of park stewards. This article highlights accomplishments achieved during fiscal year 2021.
A man looks through binoculars at sunrise.
Testing Treatments for Mitigating Climate-Change Effects on Adobe Structures in the National Parks
In the US Southwest, climate change is making it harder to preserve historic adobe structures for future generations. Using adobe test walls and rainshower simulators, staff at the Desert Research Learning Center are evaluating the potential for increased erosion, and testing the effectiveness of different treatments methods to protect against it. The results will help park managers tailor their preservation methods to better protect culturally valuable resources.
American flag viewed through the remains of an adobe doorway.
A Changing Bimodal Climate Zone Means Changing Vegetation in Western National Parks
When the climate changes enough, the vegetation communities growing in any given place will also change. Under an expanded bimodal climate zone, some plant communities in western national parks are more likely to change than others. National Park Service ecologists and partners investigated the future conditions that may force some of this change. Having this information can help park managers decide whether to resist, direct, or accept the change.
Dark storm clouds and rainbow over mountains and saguaros.
Remote Audio-Recording Devices Hear Birds When We Can't
New technology makes it possible to record hundreds of thousands of songs in a short time. That could make protecting wild birds and other at-risk animals easier.
A fluffy tan and white feathered bird with bright yellow eyes looks at the viewer.
Climate and Water Monitoring at Fort Davis National Historic Site: Water Year 2022
Climate and hydrology are major drivers of ecosystem structure and function, particularly in arid and semi-arid ecosystems. The Chihuahuan Desert Inventory and Monitoring Network monitors climate at Fort Davis National Historic Site and groundwater wells near the park. Understanding climate and water resources is an important part of assessing the condition of park biota and cultural resources.
A desert valley and rocky escarpment in the distance viewed from a boulder-filled hill
From Buffalo Soldier to Bath Attendant: The Story of Hugh Hayes and Hot Springs National Park
Learn about the life of Hugh Hayes, an African American man from Tennessee, and how his life as a Buffalo Soldier and bath attendant at Hot Springs National Park connected him to significant moments in American history.
African American man wearing a white shirt and tie sits in a wooden chair
Updated Species Database Will Help Boost Amphibian Conservation Across the National Park Service
To steward amphibians effectively, managers need basic information about which species live in parks. But species lists need constant maintenance to remain accurate. Due to recent efforts, the National Park Service now has an up-to-date amphibian species checklist for almost 300 parks. This information can serve as the basis for innumerable conservation efforts across the nation.
A toad sits on red sand, looking into the camera.
Guide to the National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA) Southeast Region Collection
This finding aid describes the National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA) Southest Region Collection, part of the NPS History Collection.
Fort Davis
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Fort Davis National Historic Site
Texas
Officers’ Row at Fort Davis. The post hospital is in the left background.
NPS / Tom Gray
The fort was established on the eastern side of the Davis
Mountains, in a box canyon near Limpia Creek, where wood,
water, and grass were plentiful. It consisted of primitive
structures and was located behind the present-day Officers’
Row. (The foundations of several buildings from this earlier
fort can still be seen today.) Named after Secretary of War
Jefferson Davis, the fort was first garrisoned by Lt. Col.
Washington Seawell and six companies of the Eighth US
Infantry. From 1854 to 1861, troops of the Eighth Infantry
spent much of their time in the field pursuing Comanches,
Kiowas, and Apaches who attacked travelers and mail stations. With the onset of the Civil War and Texas’s secession
from the Union, the federal government evacuated Fort
Davis. The fort was occupied by Confederate troops from
spring 1861 until the summer of 1862 when Union forces
again took possession. They quickly abandoned the post,
and Fort Davis lay deserted for the next five years.
Few of the fort’s structures remained when Lt. Col. Wesley
Merritt and four companies of the newly organized Ninth
US Cavalry reoccupied Fort Davis in June 1867. The building
of a new post, just east of the original site, began immedi
ately. By the end of 1869, a number of officers’ quarters,
two enlisted men’s barracks, a guardhouse, temporary hospital, and storehouses had been erected. Construction continued through the 1880s. By then Fort Davis had become
a major installation with over 100 structures and quarters
for over 400 soldiers.
Fort Davis’s primary role of safeguarding the west Texas
frontier against the Comanches and Apaches continued
until 1881. Although the Comanches were defeated in the
mid-1870s, the Apaches continued to make travel on the
San Antonio-El Paso Road dangerous. Soldiers from the post
regularly patrolled the road and furnished escorts for wagon trains and coaches. The last major military campaign involving troops from Fort Davis occurred in 1880. In a series
of engagements, units from Fort Davis and other posts,
under the command of Col. Benjamin Grierson, forced the
Apaches and their leader Victorio into Mexico. There Victorio and most of his followers were killed by Mexican soldiers.
With the end of the Indian Wars in west Texas, garrison life
at Fort Davis became more routine. Soldiers occasionally
escorted railroad survey parties, repaired roads and telegraph lines, and pursued bandits. In June 1891, as a result
of the army’s efforts to consolidate its frontier garrisons,
Fort Davis was ordered abandoned, having
“outlived its usefulness.”
The Indian Challenge
Officers and Enlisted Men
Buffalo Soldiers
By the 1820s, raiding the villages of northern
Mexico had become a way of life for the Kio
was, Comanches, and Apaches. It provided a
source of food and animals and a means of
attaining rank and status in the tribe. With the
Treaty of Guadalupe Hidalgo, which ended the
Mexican War, the United States pledged to halt
these raids. As a result, the US Army engaged
in open hostilities against these highly mobile,
lightly equipped, and courageous warriors.
The Indian resistance gradually declined due to
growing settlement and development of the
region. The Comanche warrior’s portrait (right)
was painted by Frederic Remington.
Both officers and enlisted men at Fort Davis
spent far more time constructing roads, buildings, and telegraph lines than they did in pursuing Apache and Comanche raiders. For the
enlisted men, low pay and harsh discipline
prevailed, while officers and their families
often suffered from monotony.
In July 1866, Congress passed an act to increase the
size of the Regular Army. The act stipulated that of
the new regiments created, two cavalry and four
infantry units “shall be composed of colored men.”
Yet, Fort Davis was regarded by a majority
of the men stationed here as one of the most
pleasant posts in the West. A temperate climate and impressive landscape made living
at this somewhat remote fort relatively enjoy
able. Hunting, fishing, picnics, and baseball
games were some of the more popular pastimes enjoyed by all.
LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLEFIELD NM
Frederic Remington Museum
Ogdensburg, NY
Victorio (Bidúúya)
This proud and aggressive leader of the Warm
Springs Apaches (left) resisted efforts to confine his people to the San Carlos Reservation
in Arizona. His refusal to accept reservation life
led to conflicts with U.S. and Mexican soldiers
in 1879–80 and to his final defeat and death
on October 15, 1880, in the Battle of Tres
Castillos (Three Peaks) in Mexico.
National Archives
Officers and enlisted
men generally wore
a less formal uniform
both in garrison and
on campaign (above)
than the full-dress
uniform (left). Formal
uniforms often wer