Kalaupapa

https://www.nps.gov/kala/index.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kalaupapa_Leprosy_Settlement_and_National_Historical_Park Kalaupapa National Historical Park is located in Kalaupapa, Hawaiʻi, on the island of Molokaʻi. The parks goal is to preserve the cultural and physical settings of the two leper colonies on the island of Molokaʻi, which operated from 1866 to 1969 and had a total of 8500 residents over the decades. More than 7300 people live on the remainder of the island, which was a site of cattle ranching and pineapple production for decades. Much of these lands were purchased and controlled by the owners and developers of Molokai Ranch. This part of the island is also a tourist destination. When Hansen's disease (leprosy) was introduced to the Hawaiian Islands, King Kamehameha V banished all afflicted to the isolated Kalaupapa Peninsula on the north shore of Molokai. Since 1866, more than 8,000 people, mostly Hawaiians, have died at Kalaupapa. Once a prison, Kalaupapa is now a refuge for the few remaining residents who are cured but were forced to live their lives in isolation. Kalaupapa is an extremely isolated place, surrounded on three sides by ocean and two-thousand foot cliffs on the fourth. Consequently, there is no road access into the peninsula. Kalaupapa cannot be reached by automobile. To get to the park, visitors must travel by air, mule, or on foot. See the park's Direction and Transportation webpage for additional information. AJA Hall Bookstore There are no visitor centers within the park, though the park does have a bookstore located at the American of Japanese Ancestry (AJA) Buddhist Hall. The bookstore has limited operating hours on Monday through Saturday and is closed Sundays. Overview of Kalaupapa Peninsula View of Kalaupapa Peninsula from Overlook The Kalaupapa peninsula was once a prison for those inflicted with Hansen's disease. Approximately 8000 people were forced to live their lives in isolation here. Pali (Sea cliffs) at Kalaupapa View of pali (sea cliffs) on the north shore of Molokai Kalaupapa National Historical Park contains some of the world's tallest sea cliffs, which formed a natural barrier to the Hansen's disease settlement. Kalaupapa Settlement View of residences along Damien Road Patients lived in a combination of group homes and single family residences at Kalaupapa. Kalawao at Sunrise View of the sunrise over the north shore of Molokai Kalawao with its rocky shoreline was the landing spot for the first Hansen's disease patients sent to Kalaupapa. Black Sand Beach View of Black Sand Beach and Awahua Bay Black Sand Beach is one of several sandy beaches at Kalaupapa, most known for its sea turtle nesting habitat. Archeological Sites at Kalaupapa View of rock walls and native Hawaiian archeological sites at Kalaupapa. Kalaupapa is also home to one of the most well-preserved archeological complexes in all of Hawaii. Siloama Church at Kalawao Siloama Church at Kalawao settlement Siloama Church was the first church established at Kalawao in 1866. It is one of two remaining buildings at Kalawao today. St. Damien's Grave View of St. Damien's Grave at Kalawao with ocean in background. Saint Damien is one of two Catholic saints at Kalaupapa who came to serve the Hansen's disease patients in the late 19th century. Paschoal Hall View of Paschoal Hall also known as the Kalaupapa Social Hall Paschoal Hall, also known as the Kalaupapa Social Hall, served as the community's recreational center with movies, entertainers, and dances. Papaloa Cemetery View of grave markers at Papaloa Cemetery in Kalaupapa Kalaupapa is the final resting place for approximately 8000 people. Papaloa Cemetery is the largest cemetery located along the west shoreline of the peninsula. Kana'ana Hou Church View of Kana'ana Hou Church through gates Religion was a prominent part of patients' lives at Kalaupapa. Protestant, Catholic, and Mormon churches were established at both Kalawao and Kalaupapa settlements. Kalaupapa Pier View of warehouse and store at the Kalaupapa Pier The Kalaupapa Pier, warehouse, and store were the lifeline of the settlement during the 20th century. Historically, shipments of goods and supplies were sent to Kalaupapa weekly. A Place of Care: Mother Marianne Cope and the Kalaupapa Cultural Landscape In 1883, Mother Marianne Cope arrived in Hawaii with six other Sisters of St. Francis to care for patients with leprosy on the Hawaiian Islands. With the arrival of patients and caregivers on the isolated peninsula, the Kalawao and Kalaupapa Settlements developed into a settlement community with facilities for religion, medical care, recreation, and agriculture. In addition to her lifetime of service, Mother Marianne played a critical role in the landscape's development. White statue is a monument to Mother Marianne Cope at the head of the original gravesite Ho`oikai`ka: The Volunteer Fire Department Ho`oikai`ka, "together strong" is the Kalaupapa National Historical Park volunteer fire department’s motto. Kalaupapa has a long history of fires. Most of the buildings in the settlement are historic structures; many date to the 1930s or earlier. With the nearest fire department located at Ho`olehua on "topside" Moloka`i, a 2,000-foot-high cliff away, Kalaupapa has to rely on its residents to fight fires. An engine bay with the sign Fire Station and a national park service arrowhead 2019 Connecting with our Homelands Awardees Hopa Mountain, in partnership with the National Park Service, is pleased to announce the 2019 awardees of the Connecting with our Homelands travel grants. Twenty-one Indigenous organizations, schools, and nonprofits have been awarded travel funds for trips to national park units across 12 states/territories within the United States. An elder and young student talk while sitting on a rock. Archeology at the Kuka’iwa’a Landshelf, Kalaupapa Kalaupapa National Historical Park, on Molokai Island, is best known as the isolated peninsula where people afflicted with Hansen’s Disease (leprosy) were sent between the years 1866-1965. However, the park also preserves thousands of archeological features which represent pre-leprosy settlement life. In April and May 2013, cultural resource staff from Kalaupapa National Historical Park inventoried a remote landshelf on Molokai’s north shore, called Kuka’iwa’a. [photo] View of Kuka'iwa'a looking inland. Climate Change Clues from Monitoring As climate changes, significant changes in weather conditions impact the natural environment by shifting patterns of precipitation, promoting extremes in storm behavior, and influencing bird migration, invasive species spread, coral reef decline, and much more. The Pacific Island Network (PACN) undertakes systematic long-term monitoring of a wide variety of natural resources to accurately determine if change is occurring and why. Precipitation seen over the lush valleys of Kalaupapa National Historical Park. Algae Grazers Help Clean Up How unique marine assemblages at Kalaupapa National Historical Park and Kaloko-Honokōhau National Historical Park provide an excellent opportunity to study nutrient inputs into nearshore waters, and its influence on benthic communities and the associated fish assemblage. Red pencil sea urchin (Heterocentrotus mammillatus) Stream Life in Hawai‘i National Parks Changes in weather patterns affect the quantity and quality of the water, which has profound effects on our native stream animals. In the Hawaiian Islands, the total amount of rain is expected to decrease as the impacts of climate change manifest. A stream cascading through green vegetation POET Newsletter February 2014 Pacific Ocean Education Team (POET) newsletter from February 2014. Articles include: A Beacon of Light for the Channel Islands; A Challenging Place; Isolation within Isolation; Destruction Island Lighthouse A black and white historic photo of the Destruction Island lighthouse tower on a bluff top. NPS Geodiversity Atlas—Kalaupapa National Historical Park, Hawaii Each park-specific page in the NPS Geodiversity Atlas provides basic information on the significant geologic features and processes occurring in the park. Links to products from Baseline Geologic and Soil Resources Inventories provide access to maps and reports. cemetery and coastal landscape Disability History: The NPS and Accessibility The National Park Service strives to make its parks, monuments, and historic sites available to all. Programs, services, and products, such as Braille alternatives of print material, sign language interpretation of tours, accessible camping sites and trails, ramps and elevators make parks more accessible. These are essential to allowing the public to fully enjoy NPS resources. exterior of a log cabin Conserving pinnipeds in Pacific Ocean parks in response to climate change The evolutionary record from previous climate perturbations indicates that marine mammals are highly vulnerable but also remarkably adaptable to climatic change in coastal ecosystems. Consequently, national parks in the Pacific, from Alaska to Hawaii, are faced with potentially dramatic changes in their marine mammal fauna, especially pinnipeds (seals and sea lions). black harbor seal Series: Disability History: An Overview Disability History: An Overview brings attention to some of the many disability stories interwoven across the National Park Service’s 400+ units and its programs. “Disability stories” refer to the array of experiences by, from, and about people with disabilities represented across our nation. People with disabilities are the largest minority in the United States, but their stories often remain untold. Statue of FDR in his wheelchair Transforming Visitor Access at Kalaupapa National Historical Park In 2019, heavy rains caused severe flooding and landslides at Kalaupapa National Historical Park in Hawaii, destroying a 50-foot long pedestrian bridge, cutting visitor access short along the Upper Pali Trail. Park staff responded to the issue by considering ways to improve visitor experience, expand the bridge’s capabilities, and work with the landscape to ensure future rainfalls would not impact access Repaired bridge on a clear, bright day the park. Series: Pacific Ocean Education Team (POET) Newsletters From 2009 to 2015, the Pacific Ocean Education Team published a series of short newsletters about the health of the ocean at various National Park Service sites in and around the Pacific Ocean. Topics covered included the 2010 tsunami, marine debris, sea star wasting disease, ocean acidification, and more. Ocean waves wash in from the right onto a forested and rocky shoreline. POET Newsletter Summer 2010 Pacific Ocean Education Team (POET) newsletter from Winter 2009. Articles include: Stewardship Without Boundaries: Conserving Our Ocean Ecosystem from Baja to the Bering Sea; A Seamless Network of Parks, Sanctuaries, Refuges & Reserves; Life Entwined with the Sea: The Non-Coastal Park Connection; Take the Plunge into Ocean Stewardship; Nearshore Vertebrates in Four Hawaii Parks; and Ocean Stewardship: A Commitment to Collaboration. Sea stacks rise above ocean waves washing ashore. A wooded ridge rises in the distance. Podcast 098: Hawaiian Studies at the University of Hawai’i Hilo Jason Church speaks with students from the University of Hawaiʻi at Hilo about their Hawaiian studies program. Students volunteered to learn cemetery conservation on grave markers at Kalaupapa National Historical Park. UH Hilo students at Kalaupapa National Historical Park Podcast 100: UHawaii Hilo students caring for ‘ohana at Kalaupapa Jason Church speaks with students from the University of Hawaiʻi Hilo. They talk about the students’ cemetery preservation work at Kalaupapa National Historic Park. Rinsing the grave marker after cleaning with D/2. HOPE comes to Kalaupapa The Kalaupapa peninsula has been called a “natural prison”, with rough and rocky ocean on three sides and 2000 feet vertical cliffs on the fourth side. This made for an ideal location to quarantine leprosy patients starting in 1866. Patients were not officially allowed to leave until 1969, when the State board of Health repealed the isolation policy. Most decided to remain at the home and community they had made in Kalaupapa and still reside there today. Cast concrete grave marker with finely inscribed characters. Olivia Robello Breitha “My name is Olivia. It’s not L-E-P-E-R….I wrote a book because I wanted people to know what I feel, what I felt, how much I struggled, fighting the disease, fighting ignorance, fighting bureaucrats, fighting that hurtful word.” Women with sun glasses smiles from inside her beat up blue car. Shield Volcanoes Shield volcanoes are typically very large volcanoes with very gentle slopes made up of basaltic lava flows. Mauna Loa and Kilauea in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park are shield volcanoes. diagram of a shield volcano with lava features Women of Kalaupapa For Women's History Month, the National Historic Landmark (NHL) Program recognizes the lives and legacies of the women of Kalaupapa who have played vital roles in improving conditions and advocating on behalf of their community. The Kalaupapa Leprosy Settlement NHL preserves the stories of the more than 8,000 people affected by leprosy (Hansen’s Disease) who were exiled there between 1866 and 1969 under the belief that this would halt the spread of the disease. Monument of cross stands overlooking lush landscape below and sunrise over Pacific ocean Series: Volcano Types Volcanoes vary in size from small cinder cones that stand only a few hundred feet tall to the most massive mountains on earth. photo of a volcanic mountain with snow and ice Kalaupapa National Historical Park Structural Fire Program establishes new partnership for NPS firefighting refresher course at Army’s Pōhakuloa Training Area After a two-year pause on in-person training due to the coronavirus pandemic, firefighters at Kalaupapa National Historical Park partnered with the U.S. Army at Pōhakuloa Training Area in Hawai'i for structural fire refresher training to maintain their qualifications. A firefighter stands silhouetted in a burning structure. Series: Women's History in the Pacific West - Pacific Islands Collection Women's biographies from Hawai'i and Guam Map of parks in Hawaii, American Samoa, Guam and Northern Mariana Islands Kalaupapa and Kalawao Settlements Cultural Landscape The Kalaupapa and Kalawao Settlements cultural landscape is located on an isolated peninsula on the weathered north coast of the Hawaiian Island of Molokai, within Kalaupapa National Historical Park. Over time, the character of the landscape evolved to reflect the needs and choices of the residents during and after the historic period of significance. a peninsula surrounded by the ocean Moloka'i Island: Kalaupapa National Historical Park Kalaupapa National Historical Park includes the community of Kalaupapa on the leeward side of the peninsula, which is still home for many surviving Hansen’s disease patients. The Hansen’s disease settlement of Kalawao and the churches of Siloama and Saint Philomena on the windward side of the peninsula are also in the park. View of the Kalaupapa Peninsula and the surrounding ocean. Perimeter Fencing at Three Hawaiʻi Parks to be Reconstructed Through GAOA Funding to Protect Unique Park Ecosystems Three Hawaiʻi National Parks, with funding through the Great American Outdoors Act, will reconstruct approximately 64 miles of perimeter exclusionary fencing segments most likely to fail. Perimeter exclusionary fencing is a type of fencing used to keep invasive animals outside of protected areas and continues to be an effective tool used to support the protection of those area’s ecosystems from damage. A wire fence running along rocky terrain Travel Blog: The Pacific Islands Writing Prompt: Travel Blog written by Audrey Nelson for "A Day in the Life of a Fellow" Article Series. Audrey is a NPS Workforce Management Fellow, in partnership with Northwest Youth Corps Map of the Pacific Islands “Working in Our People’s Footsteps”: NPS Employee Trains Future Generation of Stewards at Kalaupapa National Historical Park The Pacific West Regional Awards for Cultural Resources recognize employees for their expertise and outstanding contributions caring for the nation’s cultural heritage. In 2022, Joseph Kaiama spearheaded a project to restore historic buildings in the Hansen’s disease settlement of Kalaupapa on Molokai. Kaiama trained his young crew on preservation skills, passing on his knowledge to the next generation of stewards. Tropical landscape with white lighthouse on right. Steep lush mountains capped with clouds. Podcast 085: Cultural Protocol While Working in Hawaiian Cemeteries Jason Church speaks with Kaile Luga and Ka`ohulani McGuire about cultural protocols and working in the cemeteries of Kalaupapa National Historical Park. Workshop participants place a lei and pray over the grave marker they have conserved. Project Profile: Collect Seed for Resilient Pacific Islands The National Park Service is collaborating with a range of partner organizations to coordinate native seed collection for ecosystem restoration and rare species conservation in Pacific Island parks. Seeds will be collected and curated for use in species reintroduction and conservation efforts, post-fire restoration, and to develop sustainable seed supply chains for island parks. a plant nursery with various native plants Shaping the System Under President Jimmy Carter President Jimmy Carter oversaw one of the largest growths in the National Park System. Explore some of the parks that are part of the legacy of the presidency of Jimmy Carter, who served as the 39th president of the United States from January 20, 1977, to January 20, 1981. Historic photo of Jimmy Carter walking through a crowd at Harpers Ferry Updated Species Database Will Help Boost Amphibian Conservation Across the National Park System To steward amphibians effectively, managers need basic information about which species live in parks. But species lists need constant maintenance to remain accurate. Due to recent efforts, the National Park Service now has an up-to-date amphibian species checklist for almost 300 parks. This information can serve as the basis for innumerable conservation efforts across the nation. A toad sits on red sand, looking into the camera. Bay View Girl’s Mele Aloha ‘Āina He mele no Kalaupapa (A Song for Kalaupapa) by “Bay View Girl” provides a glimpse into the life and spirit of one resident of the Kalaupapa Hansen’s disease settlement on Molokai, where she was banished and left to die. Her song, sung by Park Ranger Mikiala Pescaia, shows that Kalaupapa brimmed with life. Her voice captures the beauty of the land and the strength of the Bay View Girl who endured the pain and loneliness of being forcibly removed from her family and home. Rectangular building with continuous porch sits in tropical trees at base of mountain at sunset. Series: Home and Homelands Exhibition: Resistance How have the expectations of others shaped your life? Ideas about home and gender are intimately connected. This has often meant confining women to a particular space – the home – and solely to domestic roles – a wife, a mother, a homemaker. But women have long pushed against this. Some sought to reclaim their Indigenous ideas of home. These stories of resistance conclude the exhibit precisely because they expand what counts as a home and women’s relationship to it. Thick white paper peeled back to reveal collage of women. "Home and Homelands: Resistance." Lava Flow Surface Features Surface features on a lava flow may reveal important information of the specific dynamics that occurred during the eruption and emplacement of the flow. photo of lava rock with a rippled surface of ropey lava Volcanic Domes Lava domes are steep-sided rounded accumulations of highly viscous silicic lava over a vent. Some domes are part of composite volcanoes, but large ones can make up their own volcanoes. Lassen Peak is a dome. photo of a rounded hill of blocky rock Lava Flow Forms Young lava flows also have structures and textures that reveal information about their eruptions. Basaltic lava flows come in two major forms: Pāhoehoe and ‘A‘ā. photo of ropey and blocky lava Project Profile: Inventory and Monitoring of Pacific Island Historic & Cultural Resources Impacted by Climate Change The National Park Service will address impacts to archeological and ethnographic resources and cultural landscapes at Pacific Island parks from climate related sea level rise, storm frequency, flooding, and erosion. A dark, rocky beach landscape with palm trees scattered throughout, amidst blue skies. Project Profile: Prevention/Islands: Traveler Education The National Park Service will lead a collaborative effort with Department of the Interior bureaus and other partners to promote behaviors that will decrease the risk of spreading invasive species on islands. Education and outreach products will be developed with the goal of reaching the largest audience of island visitors possible. Half above and half underwater view of thick mangrove roots growing. Project Profile: Restore Biocultural Hawaiian Ecosystems The National Park Service (NPS) will restore Hawaiian montane rainforests and anchialine pools to protect cultural and natural resources in sensitive coastal areas. The NPS will prevent feral pigs and invasive fish from entering anchialine pools and remove invasive species to protect the unique and culturally important natural ecosystems. In the montane rainforest, removing invasive plants and preventing new establishments will improve forest health. Coconut palms surrounding an anchialine pond. Project Profile: Produce Plant Materials for Pacific Island Parks The National Park Service (NPS) will expand native plant material production and storage to prevent the introduction of harmful pathogens or organisms to the Hawaiian Islands. This effort will secure appropriate seed storage capacity, produce individual plants for revegetation, and obtain locally adapted seed from partner organizations to support restoration needs. The project will result in protection and restoration of plants important to native Hawaiian people and culture. Kalaupapa National Historical Park viewed from the trail. Beyond the Volcanoes: The Great American Outdoors Act’s Vital Role in Protecting Biodiversity in Hawaii Three national parks in Hawaiʻi, Hawaiʻi Volcanoes, Haleakalā, and Kalaupapa. are utilizing GAOA funding to rehabilitate approximately 64 miles of perimeter exclusionary fencing - an essential tool for protecting native ecosystems and watersheds from the destructive impact of non-native animals. A group of workers installing fence.

Kalaupapa Kalaupapa National Historical Park was established on December 22,1980. Still in its formative years, it is dedicated to the past, the present and the future. Its is dedicated to preserving the memories and experiences of the past in order that valuable lessons might be learned from them. It is dedicated to providing a well-maintained community to ensure that the present residents of the Settlement may live out their lives in this, their home. And, it is dedicated to the education of present and future generations with regard to a disease that has been shrouded in fear and ignorance for centuries. Resources Kalaupapa. the Hawaiian place name, is perhaps best interpreted as "a flat leaf". The peninsula is, in fact, a comparatively tJat leaf of lava about 2 1/4 miles wide, projecting out from what is referred to by Kalaupapa residents as "topside" by a 2,000 foot pali (cliff). The peninsula was formed by a small volcano whose source is Kauhako Crater and whose rim elevation is approximately 400 feet. It represents an excellent example of an Icelandic shield volcano. Located on the central northern coast of the island of Molokai, Kalaupapa National Historical Park includes a portion of the spectacular north shore cliffs, a National Natural Landmark. The cliffs are of landmark status for their geological significance and expose the numerous layers of lava that make up most of the eastern end of the island. To the east of the park they can be seen rising from the ocean over 3,000 feet. Some of the more remote areas of the park include rare native habitat for several endangered endemic Hawaiian plants and animals. These areas range from the dry northern end of the peninsula through the deep moist valleys up to the upper rain forests of the Puu Alii area. In addition, stone structures and features over the landscape represent occupational periods from pre-European contact to and through the early historic period in the first part of the 19th century. There are numerous stone walls and other agricultural features such as terraces, planting areas and stone piles. House sites, living areas and religious structures or shrines are also present. Except in those areas where the archeological features have been destroyed, no area can be considered to be void of archeological resources. The sheer number and types of archeological resources that exist today, the possibility that there has been 900 to 1,000 years of occupation and use within the park, and the excellent state of preservation of the resources combine to make Kalaupapa National Historical Park one of the richest and most valuable archeological preserves in Hawaii. The authorized boundary of the park includes the peninsula itself, Nihoa (a traditional land unit west of Kalaupapa), and three narrow valleys deeply eroded into the original shield volcano of east Molokai. All three valleys, Waikolu, Waialeia and Waihanau, are bordered on three sides by 1,600 to 3,000 foot pali. Also included is an offshore area one quarter mile from high tide line, a strip of land along the top of the pali from Palaau to Waihanau, and a portion of Palaau State Park. A total of approximately 10,726 acres is included within this boundary. This includes about 8,726 acres of land and about 2,000 acres of offshore area. Historical Significance The history of leprosy in Hawaii is the story of some 8,000 persons taken from their families and hurried off to what was often referred to as a "living tomb". At the time that these persons were sent to the Settlement it is doubtful that any of them thought that future generations would care about what happened on that small piece of land but, increasingly, people are caring and realizing that there is much to be learned from those events and the people whose lives have been shaped by them. The establishment of Kalaupapa National Historical Park is an official recognition of the importance of this history to the nation and to the world. The park stands as a monument to man's ability to conquer, both physically and spiritually, not only disease but man's inhumanity to man. In addition Hawaii presents a unique opportunity to trace the course of a leprosy epidemic/endemic within a time frame of about 150 years in a geographically small but culturally diverse area. Hawaii's contributions to the treatment of leprosy, both medically and socially, have been significant and the history of this disease in Hawaii provides a powerful means with which to educate the world about the realities of a disease that has been shrouded in fear and misconceptions for centuries. The origin of leprosy in Hawaii can be traced back to several well authenticated cases reported among the Hawaiians in the 1830's. The most widespread theory was that leprosy was introduced to Hawaii by Chinese laborers brought in to work on sugar plantations. Leprosy came to be known by two names Mai Pake (the Chinese sickness) and Mai Alii (the Chief's sickness). Leprosy beca

Archeology of Kalaupapa National Park Service U. S. Department of Interior Kalaupapa National Historical Park Photo Credit: Ricki Cooke View Into the Past The diverse archeological landscape of the Kalaupapa peninsula and surrounding areas offers important insight into the human story of life on Molokai’s north shore in pre-contact, historic, and modern times. While often remembered as a place of exile for Hawaiian citizens who contracted Hansen’s Disease, the archeology and ethnography of Kalaupapa reveal an earlier occupation of the landform by kama`aina, or Native Hawaiians. The role of the peninsula as a place of exile from 1866-1969 assisted in the preservation of the extensive pre-contact archeological complex. History of Habitation People lived on Kalaupapa Peninsula for centuries. Radiocarbon dating of charcoal deposits within the Kaupikiawa Cave on the peninsula indicate Hawaiians were present at least 900 years before present. Native Hawaiians created land divisions called ahupua’a, which stretched from mauka (the mountains) to makai (the sea). Within each ahupua`a all the resources needed to sustain Hawaiian life were found. People gathered sea salt and fish from tidal areas, conducted agriculture in dryland and wet valley areas, obtained water from springs and perennial streams, and harvested higher elevation hardwood forests for wood. At Kalaupapa, remains of permanent house sites still exist at the base of the pali (cliffs), Ho`oniho - Hawaiian dry set masonry along with lo`i (taro patches), and terracing for agriculture. Families built temporary fishing shelters along the coastline. On the north shore, smooth cobbled canoe ramps made it easier to pull canoes up onto land and into canoe sheds built along shore . On the flat, wind-swept peninsula, low field walls remain which once retained water and blocked the wind for one particular dryland crop – sweet potatoes. The peninsula was also well known for agriculture. During the California Gold Rush of 1849, agriculture intensified throughout Hawai`i to provide surplus potatoes, beans, onions, and squash for export to California. Old Hawaiian nupepa (newspapers) tell of the abundance of sweet potatoes being shipped from Kalaupapa ports. In every niche of the landscape, from the Kalaupapa pali (cliff) trail, the valleys and plain, and even within Kauhakō Crater there remains the distinctive signature of early Hawaiian life: dry set masonry. Low rock walls extend for miles and miles across the windswept and more arid sections of the peninsula. Many of these walls are thought to have been used as property boundaries or as shelter for the cultivation of crops, such as sweet potato. Larger, more substantial walls were often used in the construction of heiau (temples), larger houses, and ahupua`a boundaries. One wall stretches two miles from the base of the cliffs to the tip of the peninsula where it joins a ko`a, or fishing shrine. Such labor-intensive work is testament to the man-power once available on the peninsula and also to the overall population that supported these workers during such large scale projects. (rev. 04/2014) Photo Credit: Ricki Cooke Remnants of a fishing shrine adjoin an ahupua’a boundary rock wall. Heiaus (temples) dedicated to different Hawaiian gods are found around the peninsula. Ceremonial Sites, Unique Landforms, and Burials Throughout the peninsula and surrounding valleys, numerous heiau (temples), ranging from large public heiau to small family shrines, attest to the significance of religion and ritual in daily life on the peninsula. Kalaehala Heiau at Wai`ale`ia was said to be a ho`oului`a (fishing) heiau, dedicated to the gods Ku and Hina. Kananuolalo Heiau at Kalaupapa is believed to be a temple for hana aloha, compelling love. Kauhakō Crater, located near the center of the peninsula, created the peninsula over 300,000 years ago. A collapsed lava tube stretching onto the peninsula created numerous caves which were inhabited. Within the crater, a density of enclosures, terracing, mounds, and modified outcrops are intersected by a paved and lined trail, indicating the interior of the crater was also utilized for agriculture and habitation. A small freshwater lake in the base of the crater may have served as a water source. On the outside slope of the crater, a holua slide remains, a stone slide built for the recreation of Hawaiian ali`i, or royalty. The Kuka`iwa`a landshelf contains extensive evidence of use and habitation. The landshelf features an exposed tip of land bearing numerous alignments and a ceremonial platform feature, and within the dense native coastal forest of lauhala and hau archeologists have recorded Layers of History Printed on recycled paper with soybased inks. Following establishment of the Kalaupapa Peninsula as a place of exile for Hansen’s Disease patients in 1866, an exodus took place as the original residents of the peninsula left to make room for growing numbers of patients.

Geology of Kalaupapa National Park Service U. S. Department of Interior Kalaupapa National Historical Park Geologically Unique Jutting out from rugged north shore sea cliffs of the island of Molokai, lies flat Kalaupapa peninsula. One of the most remote locations in Hawai’i, the peninsula and its towering cliffs were created through several episodes of volcanic and geologic activity, over millions of years. The resulting landscape was one of natural isolation, which was used for over a century to quarantine peoples with Hansen’s Disease. An Ever-Changing Island The Hawaiian archipelago is a chain of eight major islands, reefs, and shoals extending more than 1,600 miles in the Pacific Ocean. The seven inhabited islands in the southeast end of the chain, from northwest to southeast, are Ni`ihau, Kaua`i, O`ahu, Molokai, Lana`i, Maui, and Hawai`i. The islands were formed by volcanic action, the major ones being basaltic volcanic domes. The Kalaupapa peninsula, circled in red, juts out from Molokai’s north shore. Towering Sea Cliffs filling in the channel between the two islands to create the current configuration. Molokai now measures about thirty-eight miles long by a maximum of ten miles wide. The island’s highest elevation is the 4,970 foot Kamakou Peak. The main body of the island is referred to by the people at Kalaupapa as “topside” Molokai. Molokai is the fifth largest island of the Hawaiian chain. During the Tertiary Period, two separate islands, West and East Molokai, rose above sea level. As the two islands grew they gradually merged, with lava from East Molokai Molokai’s north coast faces the ocean with sheer cliffs, the result of a giant landslide. Deep, steep valleys were subsequently cut into the cliffs by stream erosion. Protruding from this rugged coastline is the flat sealevel peninsula of Kalaupapa, cut off from the rest of the island by the massive cliffs. Molokai’s massive sea cliffs, rise to three thousand feet above sea level, making them among the highest in the world. For decades, geologists thought these cliffs were created through wind and water erosion. Now however, it is believed the cliffs formed approximately 1 to 1.5 million years ago, after the northern 1/3 of Molokai island collapsed into the sea. Rubble deposited on the sea floor from the event extends over forty miles north of the island. As it split, the northern flank broke into large blocks that subsided in different amounts, forming steps in the submarine slope leading up to the remainder of the island. As the rubble settled, several large fragments remained above sea-level, creating three offshore islands - `ōkala, Mōkapu, and Huelo. Isolated Huelo Island retains original plant species found on Molokai over two thousand years ago, including a rare native loulu palm tree forest. Wind, waves, and rain continue to shape the cliffs into the dramatic coastline seen today. (rev. 03/2014) Kalaupapa is a relatively flat plain, cut off from the rest of the island by towering cliffs. A Stunning Landscape Hundreds of thousands of years following the cataclysmic landslide which created the dramatic north-shore cliffs of Molokai, another geologic event occurred. An off-shore volcanic eruption formed the broad flat plain. These two geological events created the stunning and scenic landscape of Kalaupapa - the flat, leaf-shaped peninsula against the towering sea cliffs. The Peninsula Forms Geology of Imprisonment Printed on recycled paper with soybased inks. Geologists theorize that between 230,000 and 300,000 years ago, long after the extinction of the volcanoes that created the rest of the island, an off-shore shield volcano erupted from the sea floor. This volcano, named Pu`u`uao, formed a relatively flat triangle of land through continuous flows of extremely hot and fast spreading pāhoehoe lava. The peninsula was formed over multiple eruptions which built up land from the sea’s floor. The land mass created by the cooled lava eventually connected with the main part of the island, creating the distinctly shaped peninsula known today. Kalaupapa translated means “the flat plain”. Flying over, or looking down from topside Molokai, it becomes clear how the Hawaiian name describes this land. The peninsula is an area of approximately five square miles, being 2 miles from cliffs to the tip, and 2.5 miles in width at the base of the cliffs. The peninsula’s highest point is the Kauhakō Crater, which rises to about 500 feet above sea level. The volcano is now extinct, but the crater, still connected to the ocean by a lava tube, has become one of the worlds deepest lakes, with a depth of more than 800 feet. Surrounded on three sides by rough ocean waters and cut off from the rest of Molokai by towering cliffs, Kalaupapa Peninsula has always been one of the most remote places in Hawai`i. When the Hawaiian Kingdom allocated lands for the express purpose of isolating people with Hansen’s Disease, the peninsula of Kalaupapa was

The Molokai Light National Park Service U. S. Department of the Interior Kalaupapa National Historical Park An Iconic Light For over one-hundred years the Molokai Light has shone over the people of Kalaupapa peninsula. More than just a guide for ships Honolulu bound, the lighthouse inspires the art, music, and daily lives of the people living on the isolated peninsula. Today, the Molokai Light is as iconic of the Kalaupapa Settlement as the towering sea cliffs which isolate it from “Topside” Molokai. Need for a Lighthouse The Kalaupapa peninsula was an ideal location for a navigational aid because the land jutted out to sea for a considerable distance, nearly two miles, from the otherwise incurving and very steep north coast of Molokai. Construction Begins Hansen’s Disease was greatly feared by the public and many lawmakers opposed a lighthouse being so close to the settlement. Despite the many concerns, Congress appropriated $60,000 to build the lighthouse in 1908. The lighthouse was completed on time and under budget by only $23.00. “The great bulk of the Pacific coast commerce passes through the channel between the islands of Oahu and Molokai. Hundreds of vessels now pass through this channel, and the number is rapidly increasing, and there are, with the single exception The need for a primary seacoast light on of the lighthouse at Diamond Head, north Molokai was emphasized in the no light-houses on the exposed Hawaiian Investigation report of 1902: points of either of these islands.” The lighthouse lamp was lit for the first time thirty minutes before sunset on September 1, 1909 by Lightkeeper James Keanu. The Molokai Light shone more than 21 miles out to sea. The tower is more than 120 feet tall with 189 steps, making it the tallest lighthouse in the Hawaiian Islands. The lantern and lens may have been some of the most significant cargo ever to arrive at Kalaupapa. Made by Chance Brothers and Company in England, both lamp and lens were ordered by the Lighthouse Board in September 1907. The original lens is a second order Fresnel Lens. There are 26 sections, each weighing approximately 264 pounds. Each piece is hand cut, ground glass fitted at a precise angle into a section of the optic, and each section is fitted exactly into a framework of bronze. An engraved number on each section of the lens indicates the relation of pieces to each other. (rev. 03/2014) The second-order Fresnel Lens is six feet in diameter. The Lonely Lightkeepers Isolation is not unique for lighthouses and their keepers, but at Kalaupapa there were hundreds of Hansen’s Disease patients living only a mile and a half away. However, contact with them was prohibited. were so lonesome we would sneak up to the light station and talk story with them. There were still great restrictions and we were not supposed to visit the light keepers, but the men were thankful for the company.” Light keepers and their families were strictly confined to the lighthouse area. Any time they, or their guests, arrived at or left the station permits and permissions from the Hawaiian Department of Health were required. People from the settlement rode their horses or walked up to see the light tower; it was a place to go, something to do, a sight to share. As the tallest lighthouse in the islands it was a source of pride. Many men in the settlement were enthusiastic baseball players Many of the Hansen’s Disease patients, and formed several teams. Men from who had also been isolated, knew the the lighthouse joined in the games. lightkeepers were the ones who felt lonely and longed for companionship. Despite strict policies of separation, Patients would sometimes sneak people living at Kalaupapa found over to talk to them. One patient- ways to share the companionship and resident, Rose Lelepali, recalls, “they human contact needed by all people. Kalaupapa’s Light Many patients enjoyed going to the airport at night to watch the light and bask in the feeling it created. For Rose Lelepali, the light was part of her life. Each night it swept across the cliffs and black lava rocks from which she fished. It rhythmically lit up her bedroom, “like a full moon’s beam.” It was a light that had shown through the darkness of the settlement from the time Rose arrived as a patient. Rose recalls “To see that lens; to see the source of the light was something I will always remember.” Patient-resident Richard Marks once said: “Every one of our people… can remember this light looking over us… That light has been very special to the people here. It has been here longer than any living person has. You could always look out and see it sweeping across the cliff. It is the Kalaupapa Light.” A Kalaupapa resident stands at the base of the lighthouse. Printed on recycled paper with soybased inks. EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ www.nps.gov/kala 

Kalaupapa National Historical Park Hawaii National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior The Legacy of Kalaupapa National Historical Park The island of Moloka'i Kalaupapa National Historical Park Hoolehua trail to topside A living historical community and fragile natural paradise N Kaunakakai 10.0 mi 16.1 km N Nihoa Point 6 Waikolu Valley Kalaupapa cemeteries 2 5 Kauhako‒ crater lighthouse 4 Kalawao St. Philomena Church 3 1 6 3 'Okala ‒ Mokapu Huelo NE tradewinds ‒ Kuka'iwa'a Point 1 2 3 4 5 6 6 cliffs and islands zone high valleys zone Historical location of canoe transport and current location of rare native species. Historic taro cultivation and current location of significant native species biodiversity. intertidal and reef zone Historic location of canoe houses, and fishing and shellfish harvesting activities. coastal scrub zone Historic location of taro, sweet potato, chicken, cattle, and pig farming. - crater zone kauhako Current location of low elevation windward dryland forest of native trees and shrubs. coastal beach zone Historic and current location of sea salt harvesting. Present History of the Kalaupapa Peninsula outside interaction Pre-contact Early historic 1200 -1794 1795 -1865 1 2 inter-island trade 2 outside trade Kalawao settlement 1866-1932 Kalaupapa settlement 1888-1969 hansen’s disease quarantine hansen’s disease quarantine patient banishment, kanaka maoli relocation medical staff present, more patients arrive Saint Damien, Brother Dutton Mother Marianne, Bishop Home for Girls National Historical Park established (1980) farming practices taro, sweet potato, pigs, chickens staple crops exhausted, cattle, food imported patient gardens, food imported limited hunting, food imported fishing practices shellfish harvesting, limited harvesting, coast and ocean fishing coast and ocean fishing overharvesting, crabbing, fish netting crabbing, fish netting, food imported limited fishing, food imported notable species sea turtle, 'ohi'a tree, silversword ironwood tree, lantana, axis deer intact rainforest invasive plants The high Waikolu Valley supports a native 'ohi'a forest and endangered Hawaiian petrels. Non-native plants like Christmas berry and lantana use water and space, outcompeting native plants. remnant dryland forest invasive animals forced exile ends, very limited tourism agriculture, Kalaupapa decline and then Field System intensified agriculture wiliwili tree, kukui nut tree Key Resource Stressors 1969- cultural feature taro, sweet potato, onions, goats Key Natural Resources feral goats and pigs, Christmas berry Kauhako- Crater is habitat for native Hawaiian hoary bats and the native wiliwili tree. intact coastal vegetation Native loulu palms are found on Huelo Island and the groundcover hinahina in the coastal scrub zone. intact marine habitat Reefs and beaches support native 'opihi limpets, sea turtles, and endangered Hawaiian monk seals. Hawaiian monk seal, strawberry guava Expanding populations of wild goats, pigs, and axis deer damage native habitat and spread invasive plants. regional overfishing An abundance of marine life is attracting more and more fishing. storm runoff Topside runoff delivers pollutants, sediment, and excess nutrients to freshwater streams and coastal zone. climate change Variable rainfall, rising sea level, and warming sea temperatures could jeopardize native plants and animals. PS ISLAND NET W RK ng www.nps.gov FIC N McCoy, Mark D. 2007. A Revised Late Holocene Culture History for Molokai Island, Hawaii. Radiocarbon 49(3):1273-1322. Viernes-Stein, Erika. In prep. Affected Environment section on Archaeology for the General Management Plan for Kalaupapa National Historical Park. National Park Service O 1200 is the earliest known date within the park boundary with C14 samples from the kula fields in coastal Kalawao and from lo'i in Waikolu Valley. Earlier dates exist but are not considered reliable. 2 1794/1795 represent turning points in the rise and fall of the Hawaiian Kingdom. PA CI 1 i Inv or ento nit ry & Mo Pacific Island Network Inventory & Monitoring Program science.nature.nps.gov/im/units/pacn/ Integration & Application Network (IAN) University of Maryland Center for Environmental Science www.ian.umces.edu 

Hansen’s Disease National Park Service U. S. Department of Interior Kalaupapa National Historical Park Feared For Millenia Since the earlist days of civilization the world over, leprosy has been regarded as a contagious, mutilating and incurable scourge. Humankind’s reaction to this particular disease has left behind a terrible black mark on world history and our collective memory – one of disfigurment, rejection and expulsion from society. A Misunderstood Disease Leprosy has been one of humankind’s most feared diseases, yet it is one of the least communicable diseases, with only about 5% of the world’s population even being suseptible. For millenia, people did not understand the disease and its transimission. Its appearance, seemingly out of nowhere, made many think the disease was punishment from God for being physically and spiritually unclean. Such beliefs have caused leprosy sufferers to be shunned by the rest of society and forced to live in isolation. Today, we know the disease to be caused by a bacteria transmitted through A Sickness is Criminalized direct person-to-person contact over a prolongued period of time. The disease attacks the nerves, causing severe skin and eye damage. The incubation period is much longer than for other sicknesses. Months, or even years, can pass before symptoms begin to appear. Untreated patients suffer from sores on the skin, the reabsorption of bone and cartilage by the body accompanied by a loss of feeling and paralysis in the limbs. Over time, these effects can lead to the body’s permanent disfigurement. Eventually the weakend body’s immune system is unable to fight off other sicknesses, resulting in death. When or how leprosy came to Hawai`i is unknown, but it appears in records as early as the 1830s. Hawaiians, having no immunities to introduced diseases, were particularly vulnerable to infection. By the mid-1800s, Hawaiians suffered death and disfigurement at alarming rates. Fearing further spread of the disease, the Kingdom of Hawai`i set aside land for the purpose of confining leprosy patients. Beginning in 1865, police and district justices were required to arrest any persons suspected of having the sickness. Kalihi Hospital and Detention Station in Honolulu evaluated “suspects”. Those with advanced cases were sent to Kalawao, a settlement on the isolated peninsula protruding from Molokai island’s north shore. Families were torn apart by the policy. People fled or hid family from authorities out of fear they would be taken away, never to be seen again. The biblical shame associated with having a diseased family member caused many families to disown sick relatives. Many sick people denied their own family members in order to protect them from being suspected as potential carriers. (rev. 03/2014) King Kamehameha V signed into law the “Act to Prevent the Spread of Leprosy” on January 3, 1865. It remained in effect for 103 years. The Cause Identified On the other side of the world, in 1873 Norway, Dr. Gerhard Armauer Hansen made a breakthrough discovery. He identified the cause of leprosy in his laboratory-- a simple bacteria which attacks the nerves. The discovery of this microorganism was the first step in finding an effective treatment. Leprosy is now called Hansen’s Disease in an effort to battle the centuries-old stigma and also to honor its discoverer’s contribution to medical science. Hope for a Cure During the years following Hansen’s discovery many treatments for the disease were explored in Hawai`i. Experimental treatments were commonplace throughout the Hawaiian Islands and rest of the world. Father Damien explored the therapeutic benefits of Japanese Goto baths. The bathing regime involved daily immersions in a hot bath with herbs, coupled with the taking of herbal medicines. Though the baths did bring relief they were not a cure. Dr. Gerhard Armauer Hansen, discoverer of the leprosy bacillus. The End of Isolation Printed on recycled paper with soybased inks. In an effort to find a cure for the disease the United States government established a research and treatment facility. In July 1909, the U.S. Leprosy Investigation Station (seen above) opened its doors. The state-of-the-art facility was established to treat patients and conduct scientific investigations into finding a cure. No expense was spared on the 68,000 square foot campus, which included flushable toilets, electricity, and refridgeration units. However, only nine patients volunteered to In 1941, Dr. Guy Faget used a newly developed sulfone drug, called Promin, to treat patients at the U.S. Public Health Service National Leprosarium in Carville, Louisiana. After several months of treatment with the new drug, the disease’s physical effects and capacity for transmission to others were completelly arrested. A cure had finally been found. Almost thirty years would pass before Hawai`i’s isolation policy was finally abolished in 1969. More than 8,000 people died at Kalaupapa du