"Kalaupapa Settlement and Peninsula" by NPS/T. Scott Williams , public domain
KalaupapaBrochure |
Official Brochure of Kalaupapa National Historical Park (NHP) in Hawai'i. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
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Kalaupapa
Kalaupapa National Historical Park was established on December 22,1980. Still in its formative
years, it is dedicated to the past, the present and
the future. Its is dedicated to preserving the
memories and experiences of the past in order
that valuable lessons might be learned from them.
It is dedicated to providing a well-maintained
community to ensure that the present residents
of the Settlement may live out their lives in this,
their home. And, it is dedicated to the education
of present and future generations with regard to
a disease that has been shrouded in fear and
ignorance for centuries.
Resources
Kalaupapa. the Hawaiian place name, is perhaps best interpreted as
"a flat leaf". The peninsula is, in fact, a comparatively tJat leaf of lava about
2 1/4 miles wide, projecting out from what is referred to by Kalaupapa
residents as "topside" by a 2,000 foot pali (cliff). The peninsula was
formed by a small volcano whose source is Kauhako Crater and whose
rim elevation is approximately 400 feet. It represents an excellent
example of an Icelandic shield volcano.
Located on the central northern coast of the island of Molokai, Kalaupapa
National Historical Park includes a portion of the spectacular north shore
cliffs, a National Natural Landmark. The cliffs are of landmark status for
their geological significance and expose the numerous layers of lava that
make up most of the eastern end of the island. To the east of the park they
can be seen rising from the ocean over 3,000 feet.
Some of the more remote areas of the park include rare native habitat for
several endangered endemic Hawaiian plants and animals. These areas
range from the dry northern end of the peninsula through the deep moist
valleys up to the upper rain forests of the Puu Alii area. In addition, stone
structures and features over the landscape represent occupational
periods from pre-European contact to and through the early historic
period in the first part of the 19th century. There are numerous stone walls
and other agricultural features such as terraces, planting areas and stone
piles. House sites, living areas and religious structures or shrines are also
present. Except in those areas where the archeological features have
been destroyed, no area can be considered to be void of archeological
resources. The sheer number and types of archeological resources that
exist today, the possibility that there has been 900 to 1,000 years of
occupation and use within the park, and the excellent state of
preservation of the resources combine to make Kalaupapa National
Historical Park one of the richest and most valuable archeological
preserves in Hawaii.
The authorized boundary of the park includes the peninsula itself, Nihoa
(a traditional land unit west of Kalaupapa), and three narrow valleys
deeply eroded into the original shield volcano of east Molokai. All three
valleys, Waikolu, Waialeia and Waihanau, are bordered on three sides by
1,600 to 3,000 foot pali. Also included is an offshore area one quarter mile
from high tide line, a strip of land along the top of the pali from Palaau to
Waihanau, and a portion of Palaau State Park. A total of approximately
10,726 acres is included within this boundary. This includes about 8,726
acres of land and about 2,000 acres of offshore area.
Historical Significance
The history of leprosy in Hawaii is the story of some 8,000 persons taken
from their families and hurried off to what was often referred to as a "living
tomb". At the time that these persons were sent to the Settlement it is
doubtful that any of them thought that future generations would care
about what happened on that small piece of land but, increasingly, people
are caring and realizing that there is much to be learned from those events
and the people whose lives have been shaped by them.
The establishment of Kalaupapa National Historical Park is an official
recognition of the importance of this history to the nation and to the
world. The park stands as a monument to man's ability to conquer, both
physically and spiritually, not only disease but man's inhumanity to man.
In addition Hawaii presents a unique opportunity to trace the course of a
leprosy epidemic/endemic within a time frame of about 150 years in a
geographically small but culturally diverse area.
Hawaii's contributions to the treatment of leprosy, both medically and
socially, have been significant and the history of this disease in Hawaii
provides a powerful means with which to educate the world about the
realities of a disease that has been shrouded in fear and misconceptions
for centuries.
The origin of leprosy in Hawaii can be traced back to several well
authenticated cases reported among the Hawaiians in the 1830's. The
most widespread theory was that leprosy was introduced to Hawaii by
Chinese laborers brought in to work on sugar plantations. Leprosy came
to be known by two names Mai Pake (the Chinese sickness) and Mai Alii
(the Chief's sickness).
Leprosy became an official concern of the Hawaiian Kingdom on January
3,1865, when King KamehamehaV signed the "Act to Prevent the Spread
of Leprosy." This Act authorized the setting apart of land for the purpose
of isolating any persons with leprosy who might spread the disease if left
"at large". In November, 1865, the Kalihi Leprosy Hospital was opened
near Honolulu. Suspected cases were to be treated here and only the
more advanced and incurable cases were to be sent to the island of
Molokai where a Leprosy Settlement was established at Kalawao. The
first group of patients were sent to the Settlement on January 6, 1866.
Father Damien. Kalaupapa, its people and its history have attracted the
attention of an admiring world for more than a century. Father Damien's
life and death among his people at the Settlement focused the attention of
the world on the problem of leprosy and the plight of its victims. His
example evoked a variety of responses and created in many the desire to
share in his work. After Damien's death, the people of England
established a fund and a commission for the scientific investigation of the
disease.
Others volunteered to work at the Settlement. The magnitude of the
response was overwhelming. Four months after Damien's death, the
London Weekly Register considered the enormous sale of Father
Damien's photograph a sign of the spiritual earnestness of the times and
stated that, " . . . the portrait of the Martyr of Molokai is becoming familiar
to the public everywhere. The demand for it is greater than that of any
professional celebrity or society beauty. How such a preference would
have surprised the single-hearted missionary, who desired to remain
unknown to the world." Von Moltke, the great Prussian general, declared
that he "had never witnessed greater bravery on the field of battle than the
Apostle of Molokai constantly displayed." And, Mahatma Gandhi
commented, "The political and journalistic world can boast of very few
heroes who compare with Father Damien of Molokai."
Brother Dutton. Many people expected interest in Molokai to subside
after the death of Father Damien but this did not happen. Brother Joseph
Dutton, who went to Molokai in 1886 to assist Father Damien, worked
among the patients for 44 years. During this time he was instrumental in
keeping the world posted on the Settlement. His address book contained
over4,000 names, including several Presidents. Bags of mail delivered to
him sometimes weighed as much as 50 pounds. Throughout his life,
Dutton was extremely patriotic and tried to instill a sense of patriotism in
the boys under his care. He erected a flagpole in front of his office at the
Baldwin Home and part of his daiiy routine was raising the flag in ihe
morning and lowering it at dusk. Scattered in archives and personal
collections around the United States, Dutton's letters provide unique
insights into this unusual man, the Settlement, and the great many people
he touched with his life.
Mother Marianne. Mother Marianne Cope nursed those suffering from
leprosy in Hawaii for 35 years. However, her name is not well known and
the magnitude and importance of her contribution to the care and
treatment of this disease in Hawaii goes largely unrecognized. This stems
from the fact that she shunned publicity of any sort. Those who knew her
respected her desire for anonymity and wrote little about her while she
lived. An outstanding administrator as well as an excellent nurse and
pharmacist, Mother Marianne felt it was essential to preserve the dignity
of the patients and instill in them a "quality of life spirit". Her philosophy
of personal dignity in the face of death came almost a century before its
adoption as the foundation of the hospice movement and other efforts
aimed at encouraging a person to truly live until he dies. It was this that
Mother Marianne and the other sisters strove for on Molokai. No matter
how hopeless the situation or how close to death a person was, he knew
he was not forgotten and was allowed and encouraged to live and die with
dignity.
Five Eras
The history of leprosy in Hawaii and the Kalaupapa Settlement can be
divided into five eras. The first spanned almost 50 years (1866-1910) and
was characterized by fear and hopelessness which drove those suffering
from the disease into hiding. Patients remained in the community for
many years after the onset of their disease and cases were far advanced
by the time they reached the Settlement. With a few exceptions, lifespans
were short. It was an era of "fad cures" and a time when the short life
spans of the patients and the long periods of service of the staff tended to
focus attention on the workers rather than the patients.
The second era (1910-1929) was an era of advancement. Comprising
roughly 20 years, it witnessed great strides in the scientific knowledge of
leprosy and major improvements in physical conditions at the
Settlement. The development and widespread use of chaulmoogra oil as
a treatment for the disease brought an element of hope to the situation.
Persons in the early stages of the disease began to volunteer for
treatment. Early diagnosis and treatment resulted in a lengthening of
lives and some patients from this era would live into their 70's, 80's and
90's. Attitudes toward the disease were changing but still had a long way
to go.
The third era (1930-1945) saw changes in structure, administration and
attitudes. It was a time of great change but also a time of extreme
hopelessness for the patients because faith in chaulmoogra oil had faded
and, once again, leprosy was regarded as incurable.
The fourth era (1946-1969) witnessed great medical progress which led to
repeated debates over the need for isolation of patients. Introduction of
the sulfone drugs as a cure for the disease in the 1940's led to the eventual
abandonment of the old isolation policies in 1969. Sulfones were called
the "miracle drug" and patients comment that they noticed changes
"overnight". In the late 1940's, some of the physical barriers between
patients and non-patients were removed and a number of entertainers
visited the Settlement. These included Shirley Temple, John Wayne, the
Trapp Family Singers, Red Skelton, Edward G. Robinson, Edgar Bergen
and Charlie McCarthy. The new lease on life provided by the sulfones
resulted in an increase in activities and athletics at the Settlement.
Patients living during this period were fortunate enough to be benefited
by these antibiotics and by the 1950's, life spans began to mirror those of
the general population.
The fifth era (1969-present) is a time when outpatient treatment is the
norm except for those representatives of previous eras who have chosen
to remain at Kalaupapa. It is an era with its own set of problems as
immigration patterns result in an increase in new cases of the disease.
However, it is also an era which possesses the knowledge with which to
solve these problems. It is a time when much attention is being focused
on the previous four eras for it is realized that there is much to be learned
from them. This fifth era is witnessing the evolution of Kalaupapa into a
National Historical Park, dedicated to preserving the memories and
lessons of the past.
"They were strangers to each
other, collected by common
calamity, disfigured, mortally
sick, banished without sin from
home and friends . . . In the
chronicle of man there is perhaps
no more melancholy landing
than this . . . "
-- R. L. Stevenson
"As for the girls in the Bishop
Home, of the many beautiful
things I have been privileged
to see in life, they and what has
been done for them, is not the
least beautiful."
-- R. L. Stevenson
Kalaupapa residents today.
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Kalaupapa
National Historical Park/Hawaii
1835
Leprosy is observed in Kamuli, a Hawaiian
woman living at Koloa, Kauai. This represents
the first documented case of leprosy in Hawaii.
1838
Barbara Koob (later known as Mother
Marianne Cope) is born on January 23 in
Heppenheim, Germany. She and her parents
emigrate to the United States in 1840.
1843
Ira B. Dutton (later known as Brother Joseph
Dutton) is born on April 27 in Stowe, Vermont.
1850
Hawaii's first Board of Health is established
primarily to deal with the problem of cholera. It
increasingly finds itself engaged in the discussion of leprosy.
after he is sent to Puna on the island of Hawaii.
In July, 1865, he is transferred to the districts of
Kohala and Hamakua where he spends the next
eight years.
1840
Joseph De Veuster (later known as Father
Damien) is born on January 3 in Tremeloo,
Belgium.
Mother Marianne
1864
Joseph De Veuster arrives in Honolulu on
March 19. He is ordained on May 31 in the
Cathedral of Our Lady of Peace in Honolulu
and is known as Father Damien. Shortly there-
Father Damien
Brother Dutton
1865
"An Act to Prevent the Spread of Leprosy" is
signed into law by King Kamehameha V on
January 3. This Act authorizes the setting apart
of land for the purpose of isolating persons
with leprosy. On November 13, the Kalihi
Hospital is opened near Honolulu for the
treatment of persons suspected of having the
disease, milder cases and persons awaiting
"shipment" to the Settlement on Molokai.
Kalawao Settlement
1866
The first "shipment" of patients to the Leprosy
Settlement at Kalawao, Molokai, is made on
January 6. This first group consists of 9 men
and 3 women.
1885
Father Damien is "officially" diagnosed as
having leprosy and the news is made public
On November 9, the Kapiolani Home is opened
in Honolulu tocareforchildren born to patients
at the Settlement.
On December23,35personsgathertogetherto
organize the congregation of Siloama and
establish the first church at Kalawao.
1871
Siloama, "The Church of the Healing Spring",
is dedicated at Kalawao.
1886
Joseph Dutton arrives at the Settlement on July
29. Damien welcomes him and calls him
"Brother".
1886-1894
Evolution of the Baldwin Home for Boys at
Kalawao. In 1886, Father Damien organizes a
small home for boys. Initially they are housed
in small huts surrounding Damien's house.
Within a few years their number increases and
two larger buildings are built. In the next few
years, additional structures am added and by
1894 the Home consists of 29 structures. It is
named after Henry P. Baldwin of Maui who
donated the money for the Home's expansion.
Siloama
1872
Brother Victorin Bertrant builds a wooden
chapel in Honolulu and transports it to
Kalawao. It is blessed on May 30 and dedicated
to St. Philomena.Thischurch is later expanded
K\/ pathor Dsjrnisn and Is common" known as
"Father Damien's Church".
1873
Gerhard Armauer Hansen, a 32-year-old
Norwegian scientist, discovers the leprosy
bacillus on February 28. This discovery proves
that the disease is caused by a bacillus and is,
therefore, infectious rather than hereditary.
Father Damien, age 33, arrives at Kalaupapa on
May 10.
1888
Mother Marianne, Sister Leopoldina and Sister
Vincent arrive at the Settlement on November
14. The Bishop Home for Girls is established at
Kalaupapa under their management.
Baldwin Home lor Boys.
The Kakaako Branch Hospital is closed.
Efforts are heightened to "apprehend" and
isolate all persons with leprosy.
1889
Father Damien dies on April 15 at the age of 49.
1875
Kalihi Hospital in Honolulu is closed.
Robert Louis Stevenson visits the Settlement in
May.
1881
The Kakaako Branch Hospital is opened in
Honolulu for the treatment of persons with
leprosy.
Kalihi Hospital is opened in Honolulu for the
treatment of leprosy.
1883
On November 8, six Sisters of Saint Francis
arrive in Honolulu, under the leadership of
Mother Marianne Cope, to work at the Kakaako
Branch Hospital.
1895
The last original residents of Kalaupapa leave
in January. Increasingly the Settlement is
concentrated on the Kalaupapa side of the
peninsula.
Four Brothers of the Sacred Heart arrive at
Kalawao on November 30 to aid in the care of
the Baldwin Home boys.
Bishop Home for Girls.
Kalaupapa Settlement
1902
Dr. William J. Goodhue and John D. McVeigh
assume the positions of Resident Physician
and Superintendent of the Settlement, respectively. They occupy these positions until their
retirement 23 years later in 1925.
Dr. William J. Goodhue Mr. John D. McVeigh
1905
The U.S. Congress passes a bill appropriating
$100,000 for a hospital and laboratory at
Kalawao and $50,000 for its annual upkeep.
This is the first hospital for research on a
specific disaaso authorized by Congress.
1907
Jack London and his wife Charmian visit the
Settlement. Inspired by their visit, they both
write about their experiences.
1909
The U.S. Leprosy Investigation Station at
Kalawao is opened with Dr. Walter Brinckerhoff as its first director.
U.S. Leprosy Investigation
short period of time. Research is conducted at
Kalihi Hospital instead.
1918
Mother Marianne dies on August 9 at the age of
80, having served at Kalaupapa for 30 years.
1920s
Drs. James T. McDonald and Arthur Dean
pioneer the development of the ethyl esters of
chaulmoogra oil as a remedy for leprosy. They
receive requests from around the world for
their preparations. Initial results are encouraging and many patients are discharged from Kalihi Hospital. Faith in thetreatment wanes by the end of the decade.
1931
Brother Dutton dies in Honolulu on March 26 at
the age of 87, having left Kalawao for medical
reasons in 1930.
The Board of Hospitals and Settlement takes
over control of the leprosy program from the
Board of Health on July 1 under the direction of
Harry Kluegel. A survey is made of Kalaupapa
and the Territorial Legislature authorizes
construction of a modern hospital and largely
rebuilds the rest of the Settlement.
1932
The Baldwin Home is moved from Kalawao to
Kalaupapa. This marks the official end of the
Settlement at Kalawao.
1936
Father Damien's body is exhumed and taken to
Honolulu on January 27, where it lies in state
for one week. On February 3, it is shipped to
Belgium where it arrives on May 3.
1946
The Board of Hospitals and Settlement
authorizes the use of the sulfone antibiotics at
Kalaupapa. Sulfone therapy is started on six
patients and the medication seems to produce
changes "overnight".
1947
Lawrence M. Judd, former Governor of the
Territory of Hawaii, becomes Administrator at
Kalaupapa. He literally tears down many of the
physical barriers (i.e., fences) between patients
and non-patients.
1949
Hale Mohalu, located in Pearl City, replaces
Kalihi Hospital as the Honolulu-based leprosy
treatment center. Emphasis at Hale Mohalu is
on rehabilitation rather than simply custodial
care.
The Department of Health takes over administration of the leprosy program. Legislation
decrees that the term "Hansen's Disease" be
used instead of "leprosy".
1955
In February, the case of Father Damien is
formally introduced by the Roman Catholic
Church and the first steps are taken towards his
beatification.
1968
A Citizens' Committee is established under the
leadership of Dr. Thomas Hitch, to study
Hawaii's policies relating to Hansen's Disease.
1969
Hawaii's century-old isolation laws are
abolished. Legislation calls for the use of the
term "leprosy" rather than "Hansen's Disease"
with the idea that a concerted effort should be
made to educate the public to accept the
disease under its original name. All new cases
are treated strictly as outpatients.
Father Damien's heroic acts are approved by
the Vatican as the first major step toward
canonization as a Saint.
Station.
1913
The U.S. Leprosy Investigation Station is
closed, having only attracted nine patients fora
Father Damien's Body is returned to Belgium.
On April 15, exactly 80 years after his death, a
statue of Father Damien is unveiled in Statuary
Hall in the Nation's Capitol. An identical statue
is placed in front of Hawaii's State Capitol.
Kalupapa National Historical Park
1976
Congress establishes a Kalaupapa National
Historical Park Advisory Commission to study
the feasibility and desirability of making this
area a part of the National Park System.
1977
Father Damien is declared venerable by the
Roman Catholic Church.
1980
President Carter signs Public Law 96-565
establishing Kalaupapa National Historical
Park.
1973
"Citizens for the Preservation of Kalaupapa" is
formed to encourage historic preservation
planning for Kalaupapa.
Representative Patsy Mink introduces a bill in
Congress, HR 12012, to provide for the establishment of Kalaupapa National Historic
Site.
1981
The State Legislature again decrees "Hansen's
Disease" rather than "leprosy" to be the official
terminology in Hawaii. This action is based on
feelings by persons with the disease that use of
the term "leprosy" inevitably leads to the use of
the totally unacceptable term "leper" and
perpetuates the stigma still associated with the
disease.
Father Damien Statue
State Capitol, Honolulu
Visitor Information
obtained in advance from the Department of Health. This may be done
through one of two tour companies owned and operated by residents.
The escorted tours include travel on rough roads. For more information
on current airfares to Kalaupapa and tour costs, contact Damien Tours or
Ike's Scenic Tours, c/o Kalaupapa Settlement, Kalaupapa, Hawaii, 96742.
There are no public facilities (camping, restaurants or stores). Overnight
stays are limited to invited guests of residents. If additional information is
required, contact the Kalaupapa National Historical Park, Kalaupapa,
Hawaii, 96742.
Access to the park is quite limited by geography. Located on the north
shore of the island of Molokai, at the base of 2,000 foot cliffs, there are no
roads connecting Kalaupapa with the rest of Molokai. All supplies for the
community must come in by small plane on oneof the daily commuterair
carriers, on mule back down the pali trail, or on one of two barges a year
that come in July and September.
Kalaupapa is jointly managed by the Hawaii State Department of Health
and the National Park Service. Although there is no medical reason to
keep many of the old laws on the books, it should be noted that there are
still enforceable state laws that prohibit people from entering the
Settlement without a permit and also limit the age of visitors to 16 years
and older. These regulations are enforced to protect the privacy and
lifestyle of the residents. A visitor permit to enter the Settlement must be
To hike the trail down into the Settlement will take the inexperienced
hiker approximately 1 to 1 1/2 hours and 1 1/2 to 2 hours to hike back up.
For those who do not have time to visit the Settlement itself, an excellent
view of the peninsula is possible at Palaau State Park. National Park
Service exhibits at the overlook provide important facts about Kalaupapa
and its history.
Facts About Leprosy
"The chief horror of leprosy
obtains in the minds of those
. . . who do not know anything
about the disease."
— Jack London, 1907
Leprosy is a chronic, infectious disease caused by a germ, Mycobacterium leprae, which usually involves the nerves, skin and eyes. Thereare
approximately 11 million cases of leprosy in the world, about 5,000 of
which are in the United States. Leprosy is transmitted by direct, personto-person contact, usually repetitive, over a prolonged period of time.
However, it is one of the least contagious of all communicable diseases
and only about 4-5% of the world's population is even susceptible to it.
Since the mid-1940's, the sulfone antibiotics have been used in the
treatment of leprosy and now two or three antibiotics are used simultaneously to shorten treatment time. With this treatment, the infection is
cured and within a few days or weeks of treatment, even the most
contagious patient becomes non-infectious. Isolation is a thing of the
past and all new cases are treated on an outpatient basis.
Although "Hansen's Disease" is the official term in Hawaii and also
advocated by the National Hansen's Disease Center in Carville,
Louisiana, the term "leprosy" is used widely throughout the world. The
question of terminology is widely debated, proponents of each term
citing a number of reasons for their preference.However, it is universally
agreed that the term "leper" is totally inappropriate and should not be
used. Use of the word stigmatizes a person, takes away his individuality
and unfairly characterizes him solely on the basis of his disease.