Bryce Canyon National Park, a sprawling reserve in southern Utah, is known for crimson-colored hoodoos, which are spire-shaped rock formations. The park’s main road leads past the expansive Bryce Amphitheater, a hoodoo-filled depression lying below the Rim Trail hiking path. It has overlooks at Sunrise Point, Sunset Point, Inspiration Point and Bryce Point. Prime viewing times are around sunup and sundown.
Map for Camping on the east Fork in Dixie National Forest (NF) west of Bryce Canyon National Park (NP) in Utah. Published by the U.S. Forest Service (USFS).
Map of Dave's Hollow Designated Camping in Dixie National Forest (NF) west of Bryce Canyon National Park (NP) in Utah. Published by the U.S. Forest Service (USFS).
Map of the Daily Lottery Permit Application Geofence Perimeter for Coyote Buttes North (The Wave) and South in the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument (NM), Arizona Strip BLM Field Office area and Kanab BLM Field Office area in Utah and Arizona. Published by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).
https://www.nps.gov/brca
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Bryce_Canyon_National_Park
Bryce Canyon National Park, a sprawling reserve in southern Utah, is known for crimson-colored hoodoos, which are spire-shaped rock formations. The park’s main road leads past the expansive Bryce Amphitheater, a hoodoo-filled depression lying below the Rim Trail hiking path. It has overlooks at Sunrise Point, Sunset Point, Inspiration Point and Bryce Point. Prime viewing times are around sunup and sundown.
Hoodoos (irregular columns of rock) exist on every continent, but here is the largest concentration found anywhere on Earth. Situated along a high plateau at the top of the Grand Staircase, the park's high elevations include numerous life communities, fantastic dark skies, and geological wonders that defy description.
From the North: Take I-15 south to UT-20 (exit 95). Travel east on UT-20 to US-89. Follow US-89 south to UT-12. Travel east on UT-12 to UT-63. Take UT-63 south to Bryce Canyon NP. From the South through Zion National Park: Take I-15 north to UT-9 (exit 16). Follow UT-9 east through Zion National Park to US-89. Travel north on US-89 to UT-12. Go east on UT-12 to UT-63. Take UT-63 south to Bryce Canyon NP. From the East Travel west on UT-12 to UT-63. Take UT-63 south to Bryce Canyon NP.
Bryce Canyon Visitor Center
The Bryce Canyon Visitor Center might be one of your first stops when visiting Bryce Canyon National Park. Here you can obtain driving and hiking directions beyond those available on this website, weather forecasts, a current schedule of Park Ranger guided programs, Junior Ranger booklets, and information on area services including lodging, dining and other attractions.
The Visitor Center is located approximately one mile south from the park entrance on UT-63. From the North: Take I-15 south to UT-20 (exit 95). Travel east on UT-20 to US-89. Follow US-89 south to UT-12. Travel east on UT-12 to UT-63. Take UT-63 south to Bryce Canyon National Park. From the South through Zion National Park: Take I-15 north to UT-9 (exit 16). Follow UT-9 east through Zion National Park to US-89. Travel north on US-89 to UT-12. Go east on UT-12 to UT-63. Take UT-63 south to the park.
North Campground
Located across the road from the Visitor Center and is comprised of 100 sites in 4 loops; A, B, C, D. Loops A & B are for RV campers. Loops C & D are for tent campers. There are no sewer, water or electrical hook-ups available. A dump station is available in summer months near North Campground; use is included with campsite fee. Potable water is available near the dump station. North Campground is close to the Visitor Center, General Store, and Fairyland Loop/Rim Trail.
Per Tent Site
30.00
Cost is per night. All sites are limited to 10 people with no more than 6 adults (16 and up); 3 tents; and 2 cars, or 4 motorcycles.
Holders of the following passes (with valid ID) receive a 50% discount on their camping fees:
Golden Age & Golden Access Passes;
America the Beautiful Federal Lands Senior Pass (lifetime pass for U.S. residents 62 years and older);
America the Beautiful Federal Lands Access Pass (lifetime pass for U.S. residents with a permanent disability).
Per RV Site
30.00
Cost is per night. All sites are limited to 10 people with no more than 6 adults (16 and up); 3 tents; 2 cars, or 4 motorcycles, or 1 RV/trailer with 1 tow vehicle.
Holders of the following passes (with valid ID) receive a 50% discount on their camping fees:
Golden Age & Golden Access Passes;
America the Beautiful Federal Lands Senior Pass (lifetime pass for U.S. residents 62 years and older);
America the Beautiful Federal Lands Access Pass (lifetime pass for U.S. residents with a permanent disability).
North Campground Campsite
Camping chairs, a tent, and camper at a campsite.
Both tents and RVs are welcome in North Campground
Sunset Campground
Located west of Sunset Point, approximately 1.5 miles south of the Bryce Canyon Visitor Center, and is comprised of 99 sites in 3 loops; Loop A is primarily for RVs; Loops B & C are tent-only. There are no sewer, water or electrical hook-ups available. A dump station is available in summer months near North Campground; use is included with campsite fee. Potable water is available near the dump station. Sunset Campground is close to Sunset Point and has a shuttle stop at its entrance.
Tent Site
30.00
Cost is per night. All sites are limited to 10 people with no more than 6 adults (16 and up); 3 tents; and 2 cars, or 4 motorcycles. Holders of the following passes (with valid ID) receive a 50% discount on their camping fees: Golden Age & Golden Access Passes; America the Beautiful Federal Lands Senior Pass (lifetime pass for U.S. residents 62 years and older); America the Beautiful Federal Lands Access Pass (lifetime pass for U.S. residents with a permanent disability).
RV Site
30.00
Cost is per night. All sites are limited to 10 people with no more than 6 adults (16 and up); 3 tents; 2 cars, or 4 motorcycles, or 1 RV/trailer with 1 tow vehicle. Holders of the following passes (with valid ID) receive a 50% discount on their camping fees: Golden Age & Golden Access Passes; America the Beautiful Federal Lands Senior Pass (lifetime pass for U.S. residents 62 years and older); America the Beautiful Federal Lands Access Pass (lifetime pass for U.S. residents with a permanent disability).
RV site in Sunset Campground
Two RVs parked at gravel campsites in Sunset Campground.
Both RVs and Tent campers are welcome in Sunset Campground
Bryce Amphitheater from Inspiration Point
A red rock landscape and plateau forest glows with the morning sun
Viewpoints of the iconic Bryce Amphitheater are located along the first 3 miles of the park road and are a popular destination at sunrise.
Winter sunrise at Sunset Point
Snow blankets a red rock landscape of tall rock spires beneath an early morning sky
Here at 8,000' (2438 m) winter comes early and stays late. Snow transforms the landscape and requires seasonal closures in some areas and trails.
Milky Way over the Hoodoos
The center of the Milky Way galaxy is seen rising above a horizon of forest and red rock spires
Bryce Canyon's clean air and dark night skies are some of its most precious and vulnerable resources. Full moon nights also provide a unique experience of seeing the park after dark.
Queen's Garden Trail
A lone white rock tower stands surrounded by red rock walls and forest along a trail
More strenuous trails below the rim provide up-close views of the hoodoo rock spires, while easier walks along the rim give perspective from above.
Bristlecone Loop trail near Yovimpa Point
Red and white rock cliffs lightly dusted with snow with a forest atop them and a long view beyond
The park's highest elevations at its southern end and backcountry areas provide views of over 100 miles (161 km) atop high steep cliffs.
Old NPS Housing Historic District Cultural Landscape
Old National Park Service (NPS) Housing Historic District is located in the heart of a visitor-focused area of Bryce Canyon National Park. The existing landscape and its Rustic style buildings reflect a period of development within the National Park Service, characterized by park planning principles that had been formalized by the National Park Service between the years of 1916-1942.
Ranger station/residence, 1929 (Old NPS Housing Historic District: CLI, NPS, 2010)
2009 NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Recipients of the 2009 Environmental Achievement Awards
California Condor
Species description of the California Condor (Gymnogyps californianus).
An adult condor with the wing tag label number 80 stands over a juvenile condor.
Bryce Canyon Lodge/Deluxe Cabins Cultural Landscape
The Bryce Canyon Lodge/Deluxe Cabins cultural landscape is a significant example of the role of landscape architecture in Rustic style of national park design and planning.
A rustic lodge with a broad green roof is surrounded by a low stone wall and tall pine trees.
NPS Geodiversity Atlas—Bryce Canyon National Park, Utah
Each park-specific page in the NPS Geodiversity Atlas provides basic information on the significant geologic features and processes occurring in the park. Links to products from Baseline Geologic and Soil Resources Inventories provide access to maps and reports.
park scene colorful rock hoodoos
Park Sells Firewood from Thinning Project
In the last two years, Bryce Canyon National Park has completed numerous fuels reduction projects to reduce the stand density of ponderosa pine and return the forest to a more natural state, while also reducing the risk to park infrastructure.
Firewood being collected by local residents
Bryce Canyon National Park Completes Fuels Reduction Project
Bryce Canyon NP completed a major fuels reduction project around Bryce Canyon Lodge to reduce the fuel loading and return the forest to a more natural state. Ponderosa pine was thinned and limbed by chainsaw to eliminate the risks that a prescribed fire might have. The debris was burned in piles in winter, when there was less risk of escape. Some wood was sold as firewood. This work restored resilient landscapes and fire-adapted human communities.
Landbird Monitoring in Northern Colorado Plateau Network Parks, 2018
Because birds can be sensitive to habitat change, they are good indicators of ecosystem integrity. The Northern Colorado Plateau Network partners with the University of Delaware to assess breeding-bird species trends in three different habitats: low-elevation riparian, pinyon-juniper, and sage shrubland. Find out which species were increasing and declining at network parks as of 2018.
Small, bright-orange bird with yellowish underfeathers.
Structure Assessments Conducted at Bryce Canyon National Park
Wildland Fire Modules from Saguaro NP, Bandelier NM, and Zion NP participated in the annual Wildland Fire Module Conference in May 2012 at Bryce Canyon National Park. The modules coordinated on performing structure assessments. The information they collected will be available on an internal agency mapping website called “InsideMaps,” so fire personnel can look up hazard assessment information when responding to a fire in the area.
Veteran Story: William Bouley
Bill Bouley served in the US Army for 20 years. Today he continues in public service as a Safety Manager for several parks and monuments in southern Utah.
Bill Bouley, in uniform, with a helicopter in the background
Survival of the Southern Paiute
The Paiutes have overcome insurmountable challenges and devastation as a people. Their long struggle to preserve the Paiute way and flourish continues. But they will not give up. Instead, they celebrate their achievements, promising that while “[t]he struggle is long and difficult… the Paiute will survive.”
Native American man in ceremonial dress with orange cliffs in the background.
California Condor Reintroduction & Recovery
A tagged California condor flies free. NPS Photo/ Don Sutherland
A wing-tagged California condor flying in the blue sky.
Rainbow Point Fuels Reduction Project at Bryce Canyon National Park
This "Success Story" video highlights the Rainbow Point Fuels Reduction Project at Bryce Canyon National Park and the successful utilization of that treatment to stop the Riggs/Lonely Fires in 2018.
Park Air Profiles - Bryce Canyon National Park
Air quality profile for Bryce Canyon National Park. Gives park-specific information about air quality and air pollution impacts for Bryce Canyon NP as well as the studies and monitoring conducted for Bryce Canyon NP.
Thor’s Hammer at sunrise
The Sounds of Spring
When the weather warms, national parks across the country rouse from winter’s sleep. The sounds you hear in parks reflect this seasonal change. They contribute to the unique soundscape of these special places, and are among the resources that the National Park Service protects.
Sandhill cranes dance in a courtship ritual in flooded grasslands at Great Sand Dunes NP.
Wildland Fire in Douglas Fir: Western United States
Douglas fir is widely distributed throughout the western United States, as well as southern British Columbia and northern Mexico. Douglas fir is able to survive without fire, its abundantly-produced seeds are lightweight and winged, allowing the wind to carry them to new locations where seedlings can be established.
Close-up of Douglas fir bark and needles.
Contaminants of Emerging Concern in Northern Colorado Plateau Park Waters
Pesticides, antibiotics, and personal care products are all being found in streams and rivers. But would you expect to find them in a national park? On the northern Colorado Plateau, scientists found that even in isolated areas, these "contaminants of emerging concern" are not uncommon. Find out what we found where--and how you can help.
Ripples in cave water
Wildland Fire in Ponderosa Pine: Western United States
This forest community generally exists in areas with annual rainfall of 25 inches or less. Extensive pure stands of this forest type are found in the southwestern U.S., central Washington and Oregon, southern Idaho and the Black Hills of South Dakota.
Recently burned ponderosa pine forest.
2020 WORLDFEST FILM FESTIVAL WINNERS
In 2020 Harpers Ferry Center (HFC) won eight awards at WorldFest Houston. Many of these can be viewed over the summer through our upcoming film festival in celebration of HFC’s 50th Anniversary. (Note: The Special Jury REMI Award is given for a ranking of A+ and recognizes the top films in each category.)
Green trees grow in red dirt canyons unde a cloudy sky.
Hummingbird Monitoring in Southwestern National Parks
Hummingbirds are beautiful and charismatic, but not as well studied as many other birds. Some hummingbird species in the U.S. might be in decline, so monitoring them to estimate their abundance and detect trends in their populations is an important step towards developing a conservation strategy.
Releasing a hummingbird after banding.
What We’re Learning and Why it Matters: Long-Term Monitoring on the Northern Colorado Plateau
Knowing which key natural resources are found in the national parks, and whether they're stable or changing, helps decisionmakers make sound choices. The Northern Colorado Plateau Network is building that knowledge. After more than ten years of monitoring, we've learned a lot about park ecosystems, how they're changing, and what they may look like in the days to come. Find out what we’ve learned and how it’s being used to help managers plan for the future.
Man stands in a stream, looking down at a handheld gauge.
Landbird Population Trends in the Northern Colorado Plateau Network, 2019
Because birds can be sensitive to habitat change, they are good indicators of ecosystem integrity. The Northern Colorado Plateau Network partners with the University of Delaware to assess breeding-bird species trends in three different habitats: low-elevation riparian, pinyon-juniper, and sage shrubland. Find out which species were increasing and declining at network parks as of 2019.
Bald eagle
Water Quality in the Northern Colorado Plateau Network: Water Years 2016–2018
Once a month, ecologists collect water samples at dozens of monitoring sites in and near ten National Park Service units across Utah and Colorado. This consistent, long-term monitoring helps alert managers to existing and potential problems. Find out the results for 2016-2018 in this brief from the Northern Colorado Plateau Network.
A monitoring crew of three samples a clear river flowing over brown rock and sand
Series: Geologic Time Periods in the Cenozoic Era
The Cenozoic Era (66 million years ago [MYA] through today) is the "Age of Mammals." North America’s characteristic landscapes began to develop during the Cenozoic. Birds and mammals rose in prominence after the extinction of giant reptiles. Common Cenozoic fossils include cat-like carnivores and early horses, as well as ice age woolly mammoths.
fossils on display at a visitor center
Series: NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Since 2002, the National Park Service (NPS) has awarded Environmental Achievement (EA) Awards to recognize staff and partners in the area of environmental preservation, protection and stewardship.
A vehicle charges at an Electric Vehicle charging station at Thomas Edison National Historical Park
Series: Park Air Profiles
Clean air matters for national parks around the country.
Photo of clouds above the Grand Canyon, AZ
Quaternary Period—2.58 MYA to Today
Massive ice sheets advanced and retreated across North America during much of the Quaternary, carving landscapes in many parks. Bering Land Bridge National Preserve contains geologic evidence of lower sea level during glacial periods, facilitating the prehistoric peopling of the Americas. The youngest rocks in the NPS include the lava of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and the travertine at Yellowstone National Park, which can be just a few hours old.
fossil bone bed and murals of mammoths
Paleogene Period—66.0 to 23.0 MYA
Colorful Paleogene rocks are exposed in the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon National Park and the badlands of Badlands and Theodore Roosevelt national parks. Extraordinary Paleogene fossils are found in Fossil Butte and John Day Fossil Beds national monuments, among other parks.
fossil skull with teeth expsoed
Cenozoic Era
The Cenozoic Era (66 million years ago [MYA] through today) is the "Age of Mammals." North America’s characteristic landscapes began to develop during the Cenozoic. Birds and mammals rose in prominence after the extinction of giant reptiles. Common Cenozoic fossils include cat-like carnivores and early horses, as well as ice age woolly mammoths.
fossils on display in a visitor center
Ponderosa Canyon Viewpoint Repair
For years, a few of the columns at Ponderosa Canyon have been tilting towards the canyon creating an unsafe area for visitors. Most parks have amazing maintenance crews that easily deal with day to day issues, but not all have crews that perform construction work that is typically contracted out to repair issues like this. A little over a year ago, Floyd Winder, formerly working at Zion National Park, arrived at Bryce and hit the ground running.
A brown wooden sign labeled Ponderosa Point Elevation 8904 with stone barriers connected by logs
Landbird Population Trends in the Northern Colorado Plateau Network, 2020
Because birds can be sensitive to habitat change, they are good indicators of ecosystem integrity. The Northern Colorado Plateau Network partners with the University of Delaware to assess breeding-bird species trends in three different habitats: low-elevation riparian, pinyon-juniper, and sage shrubland. Find out which species were increasing and declining at network parks as of 2020.
Small beige bird with black beak and feet, brown back.
Monitoring From Space: Using Satellite Imagery to Measure Landscape Conditions on the Ground
Scientists from the Northern Colorado Plateau Network travel thousands of miles each year to collect data on plants, soils, and water across network parks. But it would be impossible to cover every square inch of the Northern Colorado Plateau with boots on the ground. Instead, we simultaneously monitor the parks with boots in space—satellite data that provide information at a much broader scale.
Satellite and Earth in space
Localized Drought Impacts on Northern Colorado Plateau Landbirds
Birds of the desert southwest, a climate-change hotspot, are among the most vulnerable groups in the US. To help park managers plan for those changes, scientists evaluated the influence of water deficit on landbird communities at 11 national parks in Utah and Colorado. The results will help land managers to focus conservation efforts on places where certain species are most vulnerable to projected climate changes.
A man wearing a clipboard looks through binoculars at dawn in field of sagebrush
Changing Patterns of Water Availability May Change Vegetation Composition in US National Parks
Across the US, changes in water availability are altering which plants grow where. These changes are evident at a broad scale. But not all areas experience the same climate in the same way, even within the boundaries of a single national park. A new dataset gives park managers a valuable tool for understanding why vegetation has changed and how it might change in the future under different climate-change scenarios.
Green, orange, and dead grey junipers in red soil, mountains in background
The Road to Rainbow: Snow Removal at Bryce Canyon National Park
Every winter, Bryce Canyon's Roads and Trails crew is responsible for keeping the park accessible no matter the weather. From plowing the park's most popular viewpoints in the Bryce Amphitheater, to making sure staff can get to work, to finally clearing the Southern Scenic Drive to Rainbow Point, we invite you to ride along for a behind-the-scenes look.
A small tractor uses a snow blower to remove snow from a parking lot.
Water Resources on the Colorado Plateau
Describes the origin, uses, threats to, and conservation of water on the Colorado Plateau.
Dark green body of water winding through red rock formations with brilliant sun overhead.
Pauline Mead
Pauline "Polly" Mead fell in love with the Grand Canyon as a botany student. Her knowledge of the plants at the canyon, together with a connection to National Park Service (NPS) Director Stephen T. Mather, got her a job as the first woman ranger-naturalist at Grand Canyon National Park in 1930. Mead's formal NPS career was short because she married the park's assistant superintendent in 1931. As a "park wife" she continued to live and research in parks for another 25 years.
Polly Mead in her NPS uniform examining a plant.
We Don’t Know What Will Happen to Bryce Canyon’s Hoodoos
Only one scientific study about the effect of temperature on these iconic rock spires has ever been done. Without knowing more, the effect of a warming climate is anyone’s guess.
A woman in an NPS uniform and hat looks over a vast landscape of red rock formations
Landbird Population Trends in the Northern Colorado Plateau Network, 2021
Because birds can be sensitive to habitat change, they are good indicators of ecosystem integrity. The Northern Colorado Plateau Network partners with the University of Delaware to assess breeding-bird species trends in three different habitats: low-elevation riparian, pinyon-juniper, and sage shrubland. Find out which species were increasing and declining at network parks as of 2021.
Small dove with black spots on back of wings, long tail, and brownish-gray body.
Trends in Water Quality at Bryce Canyon National Park, Water Years 2006–2021
About once a month, ecologists collect water samples at three monitoring sites in Bryce Canyon National Park. This consistent, long-term monitoring helps alert managers to existing and potential problems. Find out what trends we’ve seen from 2006 to 2021 in this article from the Northern Colorado Plateau Network.
A man bends over in a sandy stream with weir.
National Parks in Southern Utah
Plan your visits to Southern Utah National Parks. Get details about permits, shuttles, and other information so that you know before you go!
Series: Geologic Time—Major Divisions and NPS Fossils
The National Park System contains a magnificent record of geologic time because rocks from each period of the geologic time scale are preserved in park landscapes. The geologic time scale is divided into four large periods of time—the Cenozoic Era, Mesozoic Era, Paleozoic Era, and The Precambrian.
photo of desert landscape with a petrified wood log on the surface
Guide to the Henry G. Peabody Photograph Collection
Finding aid for the Henry G. Peabody Collection
Guide to the Thomas J. Allen Photograph Collection
Finding aid for the Thomas J. Allen Photographs in the NPS History Collection.
50 Nifty Finds #18: Portable Posters
Many visitors to national parks today collect passport stamps, magnets, or other items to recall their trip and to show others where they’ve been. In the 1920s and 1930s the “must have” souvenirs weren’t created to be collected. National Park Service (NPS) windshield stickers served a practical administrative purpose; they were evidence that the automobile license fee drivers paid at some parks had been paid. Even so, Americans embraced their colorful, artistic designs.
Four colorful Rocky Mountain National Park windshield stickers.
Series: Park Paleontology News - Vol. 15, No. 1, Spring 2023
All across the park system, scientists, rangers, and interpreters are engaged in the important work of studying, protecting, and sharing our rich fossil heritage. <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossils/newsletters.htm">Park Paleontology news</a> provides a close up look at the important work of caring for these irreplaceable resources. <ul><li>Contribute to Park Paleontology News by contacting the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/common/utilities/sendmail/sendemail.cfm?o=5D8CD5B898DDBB8387BA1DBBFD02A8AE4FBD489F4FF88B9049&r=/subjects/geoscientistsinparks/photo-galleries.htm">newsletter editor</a></li><li>Learn more about <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossils/">Fossils & Paleontology</a> </li><li>Celebrate <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossilday/">National Fossil Day</a> with events across the nation</li></ul>
three people working in a fossil quarry
One Hundred Years of Bryce Canyon–Over Fifty Million Years of Fossils
Paleontologist Tut Tran began working at Bryce Canyon National Park to help document the park’s Late Cretaceous paleontological resources. A number of important fossil discoveries were made at the park during Tut’s tenure leading to some partnerships with other paleontologists in Utah.
a person standing on a rock outcrop
Making an Impact: Long-Term Monitoring of Natural Resources at Intermountain Region National Parks, 2021
Across the Intermountain Region, Inventory & Monitoring Division ecologists are helping to track the effects of climate change, provide baseline information for resource management, evaluate new technologies, and inspire the next generation of park stewards. This article highlights accomplishments achieved during fiscal year 2021.
A man looks through binoculars at sunrise.
Intern Spotlight: Estrella Sainburg
Meet Estrella, a former Trails Planning and GIS Assistant with the Latino Heritage Internship Program!
A young latina woman smiling, wearing a blue shirt with a statue behind her.
Landbird Population Trends in the Northern Colorado Plateau Network, 2022
Because birds can be sensitive to habitat change, they are good indicators of ecosystem integrity. The Northern Colorado Plateau Network partners with the University of Delaware to assess breeding-bird species trends in three different habitats: low-elevation riparian, pinyon-juniper, and sage shrubland. Find out which species were increasing and declining at network parks as of 2022.
Hairy woodpecker clings to the underside of a tree branch.
A Changing Bimodal Climate Zone Means Changing Vegetation in Western National Parks
When the climate changes enough, the vegetation communities growing in any given place will also change. Under an expanded bimodal climate zone, some plant communities in western national parks are more likely to change than others. National Park Service ecologists and partners investigated the future conditions that may force some of this change. Having this information can help park managers decide whether to resist, direct, or accept the change.
Dark storm clouds and rainbow over mountains and saguaros.
50 Nifty Finds #35: On the Same Track
In 1915 Stephen T. Mather was hired by Secretary of Interior Franklin K. Lane to build public and political support for a new bureau for national parks. To implement his vision, Mather called on an industry with a track record in publicizing western national parks—the nation’s railroad companies.
Brochure cover for Glacier National Park hotels and tours featuring a large inn
Research suggests most visitors welcome actions to preserve night sky quality
Parks and other protected areas are some of the last places on Earth with dark night skies. But even they have outdoor lighting at night. Scientists surveyed park visitors in Utah to gauge their support for changing outdoor lighting to improve night sky quality. The researchers’ work suggests that such management actions would have broad public support.
stargazers look up to a brilliant night sky and point green lasers to point out constellations
50 Nifty Finds #38: A Germ of an Idea
A lot of articles have been written about the history of the National Park Service (NPS) arrowhead emblem. Many recycle the same content and outdated information that has largely come from the NPS itself. Challenging the traditional story has revealed new sources of information—and two previously overlooked arrowhead designs—that rewrite the arrowhead origin story.
Wooden arrowhead plaque on stand
23 in 2023: An Explore Nature Year in Review
As we reflect on 2023, we offer you a list of 23 interesting and exciting science and nature events from parks of the national park system. From a dazzling “ring of fire” annular eclipse to celebrating conservation wins with the help of funding from the Bipartisan Infrastructure Law and Inflation Reduction Act, 2023 was filled with amazing moments.
the ring of fire as seen during an annular eclipse
Strong Visitor Support for Steps to Limit Light Pollution
In a world where excess light is wiping out our views of the stars at a startling pace, parks can protect natural darkness. But do nighttime visitors support the changes parks must make to bring back dark night skies? We didn’t know until we asked them.
A group of people with red lights and telescopes under a starry night sky with the Milky Way visible
Updated Species Database Will Help Boost Amphibian Conservation Across the National Park Service
To steward amphibians effectively, managers need basic information about which species live in parks. But species lists need constant maintenance to remain accurate. Due to recent efforts, the National Park Service now has an up-to-date amphibian species checklist for almost 300 parks. This information can serve as the basis for innumerable conservation efforts across the nation.
A toad sits on red sand, looking into the camera.
Landbird Population Trends in the Northern Colorado Plateau Network, 2023
Because birds can be sensitive to habitat change, they are good indicators of ecosystem integrity. The Northern Colorado Plateau Network partners with the University of Delaware to assess breeding-bird species trends in three different habitats: low-elevation riparian, pinyon-juniper, and sage shrubland. Find out which species were increasing and declining at network parks as of 2023.
A speckled white bird floats on blue water.
Dinosaurs of the National Park Service
Dinosaur fossils have been discovered at or are associated with at least 27 NPS units. Geographically, their finds are concentrated in the parks of the Colorado Plateau, but they have been found from central Alaska to Big Bend National Park in Texas to Springfield Armory National Historic Site in Massachusetts. The most famous site is the Dinosaur Quarry of Dinosaur National Monument, but a rush of new finds since the 1970s has greatly expanded our knowledge.
allosaurus fossil
Who Is the Bad Guy Here? When Animals Misbehave
When it comes to wildlife mischief, we have found the biggest troublemaker, and it is us.
Squirrel holding an orange peel up to its face.
Helping Managers Plan for Climate Change with Remote Sensing at Bryce Canyon National Park
Have you wondered what will happen to vegetation in arid climates if they become more arid in the future? Northern Colorado Plateau Network scientists explored the relationships between climate and vegetation at Bryce Canyon National Park. Results include discovery of changes that have already occurred and identification of vegetation types that are most sensitive to continued climate change, providing managers with insights into future scenarios that can aid decision making.
A lone pine tree grows on a canyon rim, its roots exposed.
How the NPS is protecting groundwater for people and ecosystems
Two IRA-funded projects are evaluating the impacts of climate change and other stressors on NPS water supplies and groundwater-dependent ecosystems. One project focuses on the implications for people, and another focuses on the implications for ecosystems.
Water flows out of a pipe in front of snow-capped mountains.
Water Quality in the Northern Colorado Plateau Network: Water Years 2019-2022
Good, clean water is essential for healthy ecosystems--for people, vegetation, and animals--making it one of the most important resources in the semi-arid west. The Northern Colorado Plateau Network and its partners monitor water quality in 8 national parks in Utah and Colorado to help scientists and managers conserve these resources. This article summarizes 2019-2022 water quality data and how they compare to state standards.
A calm river flows through a red rock canyon on a sunny summer day.
Landbird Population Trends in the Northern Colorado Plateau Network, 2024
Northern Colorado Plateau Network’s long-term landbird monitoring program provides habitat-based updates for bird population status and trends in the parks in the Northern Colorado Plateau. These inform scientists and managers about changes in bird populations and about the health of the habitats they depend on. Learn more about which species were detected in the network parks for the first time and which landbird populations were increasing or declining between 2005 - 2024.
A bird sitting in a tree.
Series: Park Paleontology News - Vol. 10, No. 2, Fall 2018
All across the park system, scientists, rangers, and interpreters are engaged in the important work of studying, protecting, and sharing our rich fossil heritage. <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossils/newsletters.htm">Park Paleontology news</a> provides a close up look at the important work of caring for these irreplaceable resources. <ul><li>Contribute to Park Paleontology News by contacting the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/common/utilities/sendmail/sendemail.cfm?o=5D8CD5B898DDBB8387BA1DBBFD02A8AE4FBD489F4FF88B9049&r=/subjects/geoscientistsinparks/photo-galleries.htm">newsletter editor</a></li><li>Learn more about <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossils/">Fossils & Paleontology</a> </li><li>Celebrate <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossilday/">National Fossil Day</a> with events across the nation</li></ul>
NPS staff work to document a recently discovered slab of Navajo Sandstone
Bryce Canyon
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Centennial Newspaper
A Century of Wonder 1923 - 2023
LEWIS A. RAMSEY, The Eternal City, View of Bryce Canyon View of Bryce Canyon, 1926, oil on canvas, Courtesy of the Orton Geological Library, Ohio State
“ Yo u c a n p e r h a p s i m a g i n e m Y s u r p r i s e a t t h e
i n de s c r i b a b l e b e au t Y t h at g r e e t e d us , a n d
i t wa s s u n d o w n b e f o r e i c o u l d b e d r a g g e d
f r o m t h e c a n Y o n v i e w .” - J .w. h u m p h r e Y
What will you remember about the first time you saw
Bryce Canyon? Rangers like to call a person’s first view
their Bryce Moment: when the forested plateau rim
suddenly gives way to a vast, sublime and chromatic
expanse. Some have described it as “a cave without a
ceiling”, others “a forest of stone.” What do you see in
this landscape? What words could ever do it justice?
The earliest story we know of this land comes from the
Southern Paiute, who have lived here since time immemorial
and for whom this remains a sacred place. In these rock
formations the Southern Paiute recognized terrible
consequences: the Legend People, To-when-an-unga-wa,
turned to stone by the trickster god Coyote for their bad
deeds. As recounted by Kaibab Paiute elder Indian Dick
in 1936, “You can see their faces, with paint on them just
as they were before they became rocks. The name of that
place is Angka-ku-wass-a-wits (red painted faces).” Though
the plateau provided the Southern Paiute a generous
bounty of food and shelter along their seasonal migrations,
the canyon itself was avoided. Euro-American contact
would later see their word for feelings of fear, “oo’doo”,
mistranslated as a word for the rocks themselves, “hoodoo”.
In 1874 families from the Church of Jesus Christ of Latterday Saints began arriving in the valley east of the plateau.
Among them was Ebenezer Bryce, his wife Mary, and
their 10 children. It’s doubtful that a man as devout as
Ebenezer actually described the canyon as “a hell of a
place to lose a cow”, though perhaps “a poor place to
loose (set free) a cow.” Either way, one can discern a
truth in these words: though they may have appreciated
its beauty, they were also fully occupied with survival
in a landscape whose consequences could be severe.
Government surveyors also arrived in the 1870s and
added their first impressions to the record. On the 1872
Sunset Point remains the heart of visitor experience in the park, in part
thanks to its proximity to iconic hoodoos like Thor’s Hammer.
Wheeler survey, Grove Karl Gilbert would glimpse “a
perfect wilderness of red pinnacles, the stunningest
thing out of a picture.” Four years later U.S. Deputy
Surveyor T.C. Bailey would stand at the rim and write of
“thousands of red, white, purple, and vermilion colored
rocks, of all sizes, resembling sentinels on the walls of
castles, monks and priests in their robes, attendants,
cathedrals and congregations […] presenting the wildest
and most wonderful scene that the eye of man ever
beheld, in fact, it is one of the wonders of the world.”
Perhaps one of the most consequential experiences of
this landscape would come some 40 years later in 1915. At
the urging of one of his employees, U.S. Forest Service
Supervisor J.W. Humphrey would ride 25 miles from his new
office in Panguitch to a place we now call Sunset Point. The
encounter completely changed his life. For years to come he
would dedicate himself to writing the first articles, inviting
the first photographers, and overseeing the construction of
the first improved roads and trails that would one day bring
the rest of us to our own Bryce Moment. (continued on back)
“...to conserve
the scenery and
the natural and
historic objects
and the wild life
therein and to
provide for the
enjoyment of
the same in such
manner and by
such means as
will leave them
unimpaired for
the enjoyment
of future
generations.”
National Park Service
Organic Act 1916
Welcoming the World to Bryce Canyon
That same summer, seeds planted by Humphrey and others began to take
root as representatives from the Union Pacific Railroad began scouting the
area for possible development. The establishment
of Zion National Park and Grand Canyon National
Park in 1919 brought attention to the beauty of the
area, as well as the economic value in creating a
southwestern tourist loop that would link rail travel
with overland tours and upscale lodging along the way.
By the time Bryce Canyon National Monument was
established in June 1923 the Union Pacific Railroad
was in active negotiations over the land the Syretts had
developed, recognizing it as a key location for future
plans to accommodate their guests. National Park
Service Director Stephen Mather encouraged the Union
Pacific’s development of nearby Zion National Park,
but was sensitive to the appearance of a monopoly and
insisted they form a subsidiary of “Utah people”—what
would become The Utah Parks Company (UPC)—to
oversee touris
U.S. Department of Interior
National Park Service
Bryce Canyon Visitor Guide
East
To
King Creek
NATIONAL
U N
T
HO
A T
E A
6.4 km
M
ES
il
Tra
Rim
Cr e
ek
C
Bryce Amphitheater (Enlarged)
8100 ft
2469m
0.7
mi
(1.
Queen
Victoria
1
)
km
Ho
r se
i
Tra
ls
L
Peekaboo Loop Trail
CAN
Tower
Bridge
Fairyland Loop Trail
YO
N
)
CA
( 1 . 8 km )
A
B EL
1.3
m
i(
2.
7758 ft
2365 m
)
1.8 mi (2 .9 km
.1
mi
Bry
ce
1
North
C
2.0
m
i(
k
ree
3 .8 km)
Fairyland
Point
MP
1.5
0 . 8 m i ( 1 . 3 km
The
Cathedral
The
Alligator
8
)
Chinese
Wall
Bryce
Point
8296 ft
2529 m
m
A
(Open in Summer)
m
ON
k
1.5
)
NY
( 2 .7
.9 m
km
M
ES
mi
1.7
(
Tower Bridge Trail
m)
m
Wall of W
ind
ow
s
2.5 mi
0
0.5 Kilometer
0.1
0
0
4.
0.1
(6
mi
.4
km
)
LA
ND
Tr
ai
Rim
i (2
.4
km
)
8176 ft
2492 m
833I ft
2539m
8017 ft
2444m
0
Paria View
Road closed
to vehicles
in winter
Thor’s
Hammer
Queen’s
Garden
Trail
k
2 mi
3 km
Wall
Street
Sunrise
Point
Showers
Laundry
Food
High Plateaus
Institute
2. 4
i(
Horse / hiking
trail
Rim Tr
ai l
(closed in winter)
13
Horse
corral
( 0 .8 k m)
Navajo
Loop
Two
Bridges
Trail
1
l
0.5 mi
IR
Y
Horse trail
1 mi
2 km
General Store
11
Sunset
Silent
Point
City
8000 ft
2438m
Inspiration
Point
(Closed in winter)
Backcountry
campsite
)
km
km
)
Trail closed
in winter
2
( 1. 0
Public WiFi
(1.
mi
Trail
9
mi
a il
Outdoor
Theater
4. 0
Theater
0 .7
(Only Loop A in winter)
12
10
Road closed
to vehicles
in winter
North Campground
Bike
Rentals
th
0.6
Shared-use path
-Use Pa
)
Picnic area
7
Shared
km
Unpaved road
Bryce Canyon
Lodge
63
0
Fee stations
RV dump
station
Ho r se ails
Tr
No
trailers
beyond
this point
Overlook
1
(Closed in winter)
(closed in winter)
Mile 2
3.2 km
Distance
indicator
Museum
Road may be
closed here during
snow storms
14
C
3 mi
5 km
Additional
Parking
Sunset
Motel
Shared-Use Path
2 mi
3 km
Tr
Rim
Horse Rides
Mile marker
Park
entrance
sign
6
4 k m)
4.8 km
2
Campground
(closed in winter)
Mile 3
Shuttle bus
stop
Bike Rentals
Valhalla
Pizzeria
(closed in winter)
Drinking water
7894 ft
2406m
(Spring - Fall)
Bryce
Amphitheater
Shuttle
i (1 .
Restrooms
To
Shuttle
Station
Visitor Center
Sunset
Campground
Br
To Tropic
2 mi
3km
DIXIE
NATIONAL
FOREST
See Viewpoint Information Below
Check out Trip Planning ideas on opposite page.
st
ore ark
P
al F
ion tional
t
a
Na
ie N
Dix nyon
Ca
yce
63
private
property
LEY
River
Creek
VAL
Paria
PI
st
ore
nt
al F nume
ion
Nat al Mo
ion
Nat
w
O
private
property
Ranger station
LEY
JOL
Sinking Ship
7405 ft
2257 m
Shakespear Point
7842 ft
2390 m
6832 ft
2082 m
LOW
H OL
AT
eep
Sh
BO
AT
Cave
TR
I 3 mi
21 km
C
ce
private
property
To
Rainbow
Point
To Antimony
36 mi
58 km
Mossy
waterfall Cave
Mossy
Trail
Bristlecone
Point
Right Fork
Yellow Creek
N
7758 ft
2365 m
AMPHITHEATER
Hat Shop
Yellow Creek
Group site
6800 f t
2073 m
Fairyland
Point
See Bryce Amphitheater Map
Y ell o
SHEEP CREEK FLAT
Fairyland
Loop
Trail
22
ANYON
8296 ft
2529 m
Under-the-Rim Trail
(Bryce Point
to Rainbow Point)
st
ore ent
al F
ion onum
t
a
M
N
nal
atio
1 mi
2 km
BRYCE
Bryce Point
Park
Shuttle
Station
WA T E R
Sunrise
Point
Sunset
Point
Inspiration
Point
Bry
MONUMENT
2
Trail
TY
UN
CO
TY
ELD
RFI
UN
CO
NE
KA
SE - ESCALANTE
2 mi
3 km
im
GA
Yellow
Creek
Paria View
63
private
property
3 mi
5 km
0
R
Nat
Bryce Canyon
Airport
st
ore
al F
ion
Fee
stations
1
No trailers
beyond
this point
DIXIE
NATIONAL
FOREST
12
Bryce
Canyon
City
Park entrance sign
Bryce Canyon Lodge
3
BRYCE CANYON
ON
NATIONAL PARK
NY
k
7894 ft
2406 m
Road may be
closed here
during snow storms
Mile 4
Swamp Canyon
Loop Trail
-the -Rim
der
Tr a
Un
il
CA
ON
ANY
MUD C
NO O N
Cr
ee
5
6
3 mi
5km
1 Mile
h
itc
CANYO
N
0.5
D
Visitor Center
7998 ft
2438 m
P
private
property
st
U
Swamp Canyon
SW AM
FOREST
L LO
W
CH
7
8
Right Fork
Swamp Canyon
FOREST
U G
0
pic
Tro
T r a il
S A
1 Kilometer
0.5
ore
- t he - R i m
DIXIE
P L
Whiteman
Connecting
Trail
Swamp
Canyon
U N
al F
Un der
T
North
0
ion
9
HI
087
Na t
W
EM
BEN
AN
R i v er
7 mi
11 km
DAV
ES
P A
Piracy
Point
Sevi
A
Tropic
Reservoir
10
F o rk
er
River
BO
S e v i er
F or k
East
To 89
11mi
18km
paved
bike
path
FA
0.5 Mile
To
Hat Shop
To
Tropic
Under-the-Rim Trail
(Bryce Point to Rainbow Point)
INSPIRATION POINT
Trailhead for Rim
Trail. Bathroom in
summer months. Great
viewpoint for accessible stargazing. Turn
located 1.5 miles (2.4 km) past Visitor
Center (same turn as Bryce Point).
SUNSET POINT
Trailhead for Rim Trail,
Navajo Loop (and
combination loops).
24-hour restrooms and water. Typically
park’s busiest parking lot. Turn located
1 mile (1.6 km) past Visitor Center.
When’s the next bus?
Tracker at brycecanyonshuttle.com
Bryce Amphitheater Shuttle April - October
BRYCE AMPH
Bryce Canyon
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Bryce Canyon National Park
The Story in the Rocks
The geology of Bryce Canyon is a story rich with change and the exciting interaction
between nature’s forces. The creation of the unique landscape that makes Bryce
Canyon famous began between 35 and 55 million years ago, when much of southern
Utah was covered by braided rivers and streams, and later by a system of lakes.
However, the story really begins millions of years before.
The Top of the Stairs
In the preface to Clarence E Dutton’s Report on
the Geology of the High Plateaus of Utah (1880),
John Wesley Powell wrote “These cliffs are bold
escarpments hundreds and thousands of feet
in altitude - grand steps by which the region is
terraced.” Powell was describing a series of cliffs
we now know as the Grand Staircase, visible from
the Kaibab Plateau north of the Grand Canyon.
Each of Powell’s steps represents a different
period of geologic history, beginning 260 million
years ago in the Permian. A low lying set of cliffs
of Lower Triassic-aged marine sediments make
up the first riser in the staircase, the Chocolate
Cliffs. The Vermilion Cliffs are the second step
and consist of Middle to Upper Triassic marine,
river, and swamp sediments. The third step has its
origins in a vast desert from the Lower Jurassic,
larger than the present day Sahara, known as
the White Cliffs and dominated by the Navajo
Sandstone formation.
The oldest rocks exposed at Bryce Canyon are
from the Lower Cretaceous, when most of North
America was under water. The Dakota Formation,
Tropic Shale, and Straight Cliffs Formation are
marine sediments associated with the Western
Interior Seaway. These rock layers, along with
the slightly younger Wahweap Formation, are
the Gray Cliffs, covering a span of time from 100
to 75 million years ago, are the fourth step in the
staircase. The Pink Cliffs of the Claron Formation
are the fifth and final step.
Setting the Scene
One of the most significant factors in the creation
of many of the landscapes seen in western North
America is the subduction of the Pacific Oceanic
Plate (originally the Kula and Farallon Plates)
beneath the North American Continental Plate.
For millions of years the western portion of the
continent had been at or below sea level, and the
forces of this ongoing collision between plates are
responsible for the west’s higher elevations that
exist today. Beginning in the middle to late Jurassic
a mountain building event took place, the Sevier
Orogeny, in what is now eastern Nevada and
western Utah. As this period of uplift was winding
down, interaction between the plates continued
and the Laramide Orogeny began during the
Cretaceous, uplifting the mountain chain we call
the Rockies. Between these mountain ranges a
large basin formed, creating a perfect place for
snowmelt and rain runoff to collect.
Watery Beginnings
With well formed mountain ranges lying to the
west and east, rivers and streams flowed into
the basin below and, from what is now southern
Utah up to Wyoming, a chain of lakes formed.
The southernmost of these lakes has been named
Lake Claron, the name having been derived from
a mountain in western Utah - Mount Claron where the Claron Formation was first described
(in geologic terms, the type locality). Water is one
of the most powerful forces on Earth, and as rain
fell and snow melted, it began to take apart those
mountain ranges, grain by grain. These grains
became the sediments that would collect on the
lake’s bottom.
Pink Cliffs
Gray Cliffs
White Cliffs
Vermilion Cliffs
Four of the Grand Staircase’s five steps
Early on, as water first began to flow into the
basin, what existed here was probably more
marsh-like than an actual lake. Silts and muds
were carried into the basin by the rivers and
streams, along with minerals like iron and
manganese. The roots of plants living in this
marsh help to oxidize these minerals, contributing
to the spectacular colors visible today. The Lower
Pink Member of the Claron Formation gets its
Watery Beginnings
(continued)
distinctive pink color from iron oxides, with veins
of dark blue to purple caused by manganese
oxides. In addition, the waters were also rich in
calcium carbonate, which comes from dissolved
limestone and, once the sediments dry out,
becomes the glue that bonds the grains together,
forming rock.
Within the Pink Member there are also thin layers
of gray rock that are not continuous, suggesting
there were periods where this marshy landscape
had dried and was instead dotted with many
ponds. Indications are that these ponds were salty
or highly mineralized, with nothing able to survive
in them except cyanobacteria (blue-green algae).
By enriching the sediments with magnesium the
algae extracted from the water, they helped to
create dolostone, an important piece of the puzzle
in the formation of hoodoos.
Utah region 50 million years ago. Sediment eroded
from mountains in Northwestern Utah wa
Bryce Canyon
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Bryce Canyon National Park
Utah Prairie Dog
(Cynomys parvidens)
All photos by Kevin Doxstater
Prairie Dogs are ground-dwelling members of the squirrel family found only in North
America. There are five species within the genus and the Utah Prairie Dog is the smallest
member of the group. Restricted to the southwestern corner of Utah, they are a threatened
species that has suffered population declines due to habitat loss and other factors.
Vital Statistics
Utah Prairie Dogs range from 12 – 16 inches
(30.5 – 40.6 cm) in length and weigh from
1 – 3 pounds (.45 – 1.4 kg). Color ranges
from cinnamon to clay and they have a fairly
distinct black eyebrow (or stripe) not seen
in any of the other 4 prairie dog species.
Their short tail is white tipped like that of
their close relative the White-tailed Prairie
Dog . Utah Prairie Dogs reach maturity in
1 year; females have a life span of about
8 years, males live approximately 5 years.
Interestingly, they are the only nonfish vertebrate species endemic (found
nowhere else in the world) to the State of
Utah.
Habitat and Diet
Like the other members of the genus,
Utah Prairie Dogs live in colonies or
“towns” in meadows with short grasses.
Individual colonies will be further divided
into territories occupied by social groups
or clans which are made up of (usually)
1 male, 1 or more females, and first-year
offspring. The colonies can be occupied by
as little as one clan to several. Burrows can
be from 3 to 6 feet (.9 to 1.8 meters) deep
and up to 15 feet (4.6 m) long with small
chambers near the entrance to listen for
activity above ground and larger, deeper
chambers for sleeping and pup rearing.
Mounds at the entrance to the burrows
serve as lookout stations and to limit the
amount of water entering the tunnels.
for the remaining time. These include
serving as a sentry looking for intruders or
predators, play, mutual grooming, defense
of territory or young, or burrow and nest
construction.
As noted above, there can be several
territories within a colony and an intruder
will be met with barking, chasing, or on
occasion a fight may take place between
adults. Pups will frequently cross over into
other territories and play with neighboring
pups, though sometimes an adult will chase
the visitor away or even attack. As food
sources become scarce in the late summer
and early fall, neighboring clans begin to
move into common feeding areas to forage.
In most cases they are tolerant of others,
though there are occasional fights between
members of opposite clans in these
common areas.
Strictly diurnal (active during the day),
Utah Prairie Dogs are rarely, if ever, seen
outside their burrows before sunrise or
after sunset. Approximately 60% of their
time outside is spent foraging near the
burrow, with other activities taking place
Standing guard at the burrow’s entrance.
Utah Prairie Dogs are primarily herbivores
with a diet that consists of grasses, forbs,
and seeds. When available they will also
eat insects. They do not need to be near
water as they glean most of their necessary
intake from the plants they eat, though
they will sometimes lick dew from plants
in the morning. They return to their
burrows during the middle portion of
the day, especially on the hottest days of
summer when moisture loss is greatest.
Breeding
Keystone Species
The winters in southwestern Utah can be
long, especially up on the plateaus, and,
beginning in late October, Utah Prairie
Dogs begin to retreat to their burrows
to hibernate. In March, as Winter slowly
gives way to Spring, they start to become
active again and it is also the time to breed.
Litter sizes range from 1 to 6 pups, with
an average of 4, and are born in late April
or early May following a 30–day gestation.
The pups first emerge from the natal
burrow some 6 weeks later and begin
to explore the outside world. The pups
spend the first week staying close to their
mother, and studies indicate that knowing
what foods to eat is learned during this
period. As the weeks pass they quickly
become more independent and are soon
foraging with other members of the clan
or in common areas with other dogs in
All species of prairie dog are considered
to be “keystone species” by biologists
and the areas around prairie dog colonies
support many diverse plant and animal
species. Their burrows help to aerate the
soil which, in turn, helps to promote plant
growth. Grazing serves to “clip” plants,
stimulating constant, healthy regrowth
through the growing season. For example,
here at Bryce Canyon, Mule Deer can
frequently be seen during the summer
months grazing in prairie dog colonies,
seeking out this younger vegetation which
is higher in nutritional content.
Predator-prey relationships are part of
all healthy ecosystems and prairie dogs
are prey for a variety of species including
hawks, eagles, weasels, badgers, owls, and
rattlesnakes. In some cases, predators
will then use the
Bryce Canyon
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Bryce Canyon National Park
Pronghorn
(Antilocapra americana)
Their scientific name, Antilocapra americana, means “American Antelope
Goat,” but they are not closely related to the antelopes of Africa and Asia. They
are the fastest land animals in the western hemisphere, and they are a link to
the past as one of the few remaining survivors of the last Ice Age. Pronghorns
evolved when the hemisphere was home to the American Cheetah as well as
other large predators and, in order to survive, they had to be fast.
Vital Statistics
Named for the forward facing prong on
the buck’s horns, they are often referred
to as antelope or Pronghorn Antelope,
however, the correct common name is
simply Pronghorn. Their horns are unique in
the animal kingdom and shared by no living
other species. Antlers are bone and shed
each year, while bovine horns are permanent
and are bone covered with a keratin sheath
(hair and nails are keratin). The Pronghorn
is similar to the bovine family in that they
have bone covered with a keratin sheath, but
with one major exception: the keratin sheath
is shed each year after the breeding season,
the regrows each Spring.
Not large animals, Pronghorn have eyes as
large as a horse, are able to detect movement
up to 4 miles/6.5 km away, and have a field
of view of more than 300 degrees.
A Lone Survivor
Always on the alert, a Pronghorn Doe.
The males average 3 ft. (0.9 m) tall,
60 in.(1.5 m) in length, and weigh
120 pounds (55 kg). The females are
approximately 10% smaller.
The modern Pronghorn’s earliest ancestors
appear in the fossil record from the Miocene
Epoch, about 20 million years ago. The
family continued to evolve and expand
over the millennia and there are fossils
representing at least 12 different species.
Bones of the modern Pronghorn, dating to
about 10,000 years ago, have been found in
California’s La Brea Tar Pits.
North America was a very different
place and by late in the Pliocene Epoch,
in addition to the pronghorns, North
America was also home to several species
we associate with modern Africa: lions,
cheetahs, and hyenas. In addition, there
were saber-toothed cats and short-faced
bears that, combined with those mentioned
earlier, made for some very formidable
predators. For an even-toed ungulate living
in such a dangerous time, speed was the only
defense in the struggle for survival.
When humans first arrived in North
America 13,000 years ago there were five
pronghorn species. By the end of the
Pleistocene Epoch, about 11,000 years
ago, the planet had entered the last Ice Age
and North America seemed to be hardest
hit. Mass extinctions during that period
included mammoths, mastodons, the big
cats, and all but this one surviving member
of the pronghorn family.
Lifestyles
Pronghorn inhabit grasslands, deserts,
and sagebrush flats of western North
America from Canada’s prairies to
northern Mexico at elevations from 4,000
to 8,000 feet (1220 to 2400 meters). Since
they rely on vision and speed for predator
avoidance, wide open spaces with low
vegetation are critical for survival. Herds,
depending on location, will migrate from
just a few miles/kilometers to over 150
miles (240 km) between summer and
winter forage. Pronghorn are a frequent
sight in the meadows at Bryce Canyon
from spring through fall, but retreat to
lower elevations, where there is less snow,
in the winter.
Pronghorn are ruminants with fourchambered stomachs much like those of
members of the deer and bovine families.
Their diet consists chiefly of forbs, shrubs,
and, especially in winter, sagebrush. They
rarely eat grasses but will, in arid or desert
environments, eat cactus. Herds tend to
be larger during the winter months, then
break up into smaller groups in spring
and summer. Pregnant females leave the
Conservation
Twin fawns nursing while the doe maintains a
constant vigil.
herds in May or June to find a secluded
location to give birth.
Adults have no living natural predators
except when old, sick, or injured. While
vulnerable, the family heritage of speed
is present even in the fawns. At the age
of four days they can outrun the average
human and, by three to four weeks, can
already outrun a coyote or bobcat. Even
with young Pronghorns, the only chance
a predator has is surprise.
Prior to westward expansion, the
population of Pronghorns is estimated to
have numbered over 40 million, and there
were probably more Pronghorns than
Bison. By the early 20th Century, however,
their numbers had been reduced to less
than 20,000.
Market hunting during the last half of
the 19th Century, when you could buy
an entire Pronghorn for food in Denver,
Colorado for 25 cents, was a major factor
in their decline. In addition, as ranching
grew and the “fencing of the west” began
these animals, who are fast but poor
jumpers, could not make their way to
traditional wintering grounds. Fences left
them more susceptible to predation and
starvation.
Conservat
Bryce Canyon
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Bryce Canyon National Park
Humans at Bryce – A Brief History
A raven’s call filters down from the deep blue sky of southern Utah’s high plateau
country. The air is fresh and cool, but the sun warms your skin. The trail beneath
your boots winds through a maze of rock walls, columns, and spires in colors hard
to believe: red, orange, yellow, violet, and white. Gnarled pine trees, some thousands
of years old, grow from secret places among the rocks. You may be following in the
footsteps of a hunter who walked this trail thousands of years ago…
Prehistory
Located on the eastern edge of the
Paunsaugunt Plateau, Bryce Canyon National
Park rises from about 6,600 feet above sea
level to more than 9,100 feet at Rainbow
Point. The plateau’s climate features short,
mild summers and long, cold winters. The
growing season is brief and water is scarce,
making it difficult to live on top of the plateau.
The earliest inhabitants in the area were
Paleoindians, who used the area primarily for
hunting grounds. Evidence of these people
has been found near the park in the form of
dart and spear points reliably dated to the end
of the last Ice Age (between 9,000 and 12,000
years ago). While it is known from these
finds that hunters were in the area, to date
no archaeological evidence has been found
to indicate that there were any permanent
settlements on the plateau.
Following the end of the Ice Age - and the
extinction of the “megafauna” such as the
mammoths - we enter the period known to
archaeologists as the Archaic Period. This
period ranges from 9,000 to 1,500 years
before present, and numerous sites have
yielded evidence of habitation both in Bryce
The Southern Paiute
About 1,000 years
ago the Fremont and
Puebloan Cultures
seem to disappear
and evidence of new
human habitation
appears with the
arrival of Numicspeaking peoples
from the southwest
- the Southern Paiute.
They were nomadic
hunter-gatherers who also practiced limited
agriculture, primarily maize (corn), and
occupied the general area for over 800 years.
Within the park and on the plateau there are
numerous archaeological sites associated
with the Southern Paiute, however these sites
Canyon National Park and the surrounding
area. Within the park this evidence is
generally limited to dart and spear points,
however, cave and rockshelter sites, as well
as ruins of storage facilities of this age, are
known in the region.
The Formative Period began approximately
2,000 years ago and ended at around 1000
C.E. with the arrival of the Paiute in the area.
This period saw the rise of two different
cultures: the Fremont and Pueblo Cultures
(aka Ancestral Puebloan or Anasazi). The
aspects of their lifestyles separating them
from their ancestors are the development of
agriculture and evidence of a more sedentary
lifestyle. While no Fremont Culture sites are
known within park boundaries, there are sites
just outside the park near the East Fork of
the Sevier River in the Dixie National Forest
which contain projectile points, Fremont
pottery, and possible small structures.The
Virgin Anasazi were neighbors to the south
of the Fremont people, and within the park
there are a few sites which contain ceramics.
Other Virgin Anasazi sites have been found
on the Skutumpah Terrace south of the park.
are limited to what were probably seasonal
hunting camps as opposed to long term
settlements. Arrow and spear points, pottery
shards, stripped bark on pines, and fire pits
are the types of evidence found here.
Many place names within the park and the
surrounding region can be attributed to the
Southern Paiute: Paunsaugunt means “home
of the beavers”; Paria means “muddy water”
or “elk water”; Yovimpa is a derivative of a
word meaning “pine tree ridge”; Panguitch
means “water” or “fish”; Podunk Creek was
named after a Paiute, Po Dunk, who was lost
in the area; and Skutumpah is a combination
of two words which mean, respectively,
“creek where the squirrels live” and “creek
where the rabbitbrush grows”.
Exploration & Settlement
The Dominguez-Escalante Expedition of
1776 was the earliest presence of EuroAmericans in southwestern Utah, though
their route took them some 50 miles (80
kilometers) south of Bryce Canyon. The
purpose of this journey, which ultimately
failed, was to find a route to connect Santa Fe
with the missions of California. Later, a trail
established by Mexican traders in the 1820’s
passed within 44 miles (70 kilometers) of the
park. This same trail would later be used by
frontiersmen and explorers such as Jedediah
Smith (late 1820’s) and Captain John C.
Fremont (1840’s). The first Mormon scouts
entered the area along this trail during the late
1840’s, their travels taking them near the site
of present day Panguitch, from where they
almost certainly had views of the western
escarpment, known as the Sunset Cliffs, of
the Paunsaugunt Plateau.
Settlement of the region began in the 1850’s
but was initially restr
Bryce Canyon
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Bryce Canyon National Park
From Curiosity to National Park
It is a place that was known to the ancient hunters who wandered this part of North America
thousands of years ago. To the Southern Paiute it was known as “Agka-ku-wass-a-wits,”
which means red painted faces, and the rock formations were the Legend People, turned
to stone by Coyote. For the Mormon Pioneers the canyon they named for Ebenezer Bryce
was little more than a curiosity – and a place you wouldn’t want to lose a cow. By the early
20th Century, however, the word began to spread and people today come by the millions to
marvel at the wonder and timeless beauty that is Bryce Canyon.
.
Beginnings
The Syretts
J.W. Humphrey was transferred to the town
of Panguitch in 1915 as the new Forest
Supervisor of the Sevier National Forest.
At the urging of Forest Service Ranger
Elias Smith, Humphrey first visited the
eastern escarpment of the Paunsaugunt
Plateau and, surprised at the “indescribable
beauty” of the canyon, almost immediately
began developing plans to publicize what
he had seen. Humphrey designated Mark
Anderson, foreman of the forest’s grazing
crew, to take on this task. Anderson had yet
to see “Bryce’s Canyon” himself, and would
not until the spring of 1916. Returning
to Panguitch, Anderson immediately
telegraphed a request for Forest Service
photographer George Coshen to be sent
down with still and movie cameras. Coshen
arrived the following day and, upon
completion, the photographs and movie
were sent to Forest Service officials in
Washington, D.C. as well as to Union Pacific
Railroad officials in Omaha, Nebraska.
In either the late spring or early summer
of that year, Humphrey, with the help of
Anderson and James T. Jardine, secured
an appropriation of $50 to build bridges
over the East Fork of the Sevier River
and complete a dry weather road to the
plateau’s rim (which ended near the site of
the present Bryce Canyon Lodge). By late
1916, two articles were written about the
canyon, one by Arthur Stevens, a member
of the grazing crew, which was published in
a Union Pacific publication, Outdoor Life,
and the other by Humphrey, under the pen
name J.J. Drew, published in Red Book, a
periodical published by the Denver & Rio
Grande Western Railroad.
As the Forest service was first beginning to
publicize the canyon in 1916, Reuben “Ruby”
and Minnie Syrett were living in Panguitch
but looking for a place to homestead. Settling
on a location about 3-1/2 miles from what is
now Sunset Point, they moved to the area in
early May of 1916. By the end of the summer,
Ruby and Minnie were inviting friends from
Panguitch to come up and see the area’s
scenery.
the ranch and returned with several beds.
Ruby and Minnie would spend the rest of
that summer accommodating visitors. In the
spring of 1920 the Syretts built a permanent
lodge, along with several cabins, that would
soon be named Tourist’s Rest.
The years from 1916 to 1919 saw the Syrett’s
adding to their homestead and splitting time
between there, Escalante, and Tropic. As
word began to spread and visitors arrived in
ever increasing numbers, one Sunday in the
spring or early summer of 1919 found a large
group arriving from Salt Lake. The Syretts
erected a large tent, served a noon meal,
and later that afternoon, Ruby went back to
The years 1917 and 1918 brought more
visitors to see Bryce’s Canyon, one of the
most significant being Salt Lake Tribune
photographer Oliver J. Grimes. A full
page article, “Utah’s New Wonderland,”
appeared in the Tribune in August of
1918, and, along with many photographs,
included directions. Grimes would soon
become State Secretary to Governor
Bamberger and, apparently, had some
influence on the state legislature passing a
Joint Memorial on March 13, 1919 urging
the U.S. Congress to set aside Bryce’s
Canyon as a national monument.
Tourist’s Rest in the 1920’s.
National Monument
Senator Reed Smoot of Utah introduced
a bill in November of 1919 to establish
Bryce as Utah National Park but the
Department of the Interior’s position was
establishment of a national monument
was a better idea. Senator Smoot would
try again in 1921 however, by late 1922, he
finally conceded that obtaining monument
status would be the best way to proceed.
Following meetings in December of 1922
and recommendations from both the
Departments of Interior and Agriculture,
on June 8, 1923 President Warren G.
Harding issued a proclamation establishing
Bryce Canyon National Monument.
Senator Smoot continued his pursuit of
national park status for Bryce and his
bill establishing Utah National Park was
finally passed June 7, 1924. There was
a stipulation, however, that it remain a
national monument until such time as
all lands within the boundaries became
property of the U.S. Government. It would
be four more years before this came to pass
and from 1923 to 1928 the monument was
managed by the forest service.
Union Pacific
Mean