Enchanted Rock

So You Want To Rock Climb or Boulder At E-Rock? Important notes for climbers from the CTCC Traditional Area By its designation as a State Natural Area, the natural character and features of Enchanted Rock are protected for the enjoyment of all visitors. We’re very fortunate that the granite domes and boulders at Enchanted Rock have enjoyed a long and ongoing history of traditional-style ascents. The use of pitons is never allowed, and crack climbs are almost exclusively protected using trad gear. A few climbs involve a mix of pre-placed bolts and trad gear placements (for example Mercy Street on the News Wall). It is against park rules and regulations to use trees or other plants for protection, anchoring or rappelling, and any such use is punishable by a fine. As climbers we have a responsibility to be respectful of our surroundings and of the rights of other park visitors. If you would like to learn how to trad climb or to place removable (“clean”) anchors, there are several experienced guide services available for Enchanted Rock, and a list of these is available at www.tpwd.tx.us/state-parks/enchanted-rock. It is advised that you fully learn and become fluent with these techniques before you attempt climbing in this traditional way. Fixed Protection No alteration of any rock feature or bolt is allowed without explicit written approval from TPWD. There are fixed expansion bolts placed as climbing protection in many areas at Enchanted Rock. Many of these climbs were originally bolted on lead, from the ground up. For the most part bolted routes should be considered “sporty” rather than “sport” meaning that there (continued on other side) (continued from other side) may be substantial run-outs between anchors, increasing the risk of falls. The park and community want to sustain the legacy of these climbs and consider them and their story important to the climbing history at Enchanted Rock SNA. Before you start a climb, please be sure you know what you are getting into and that you are capable of safely leading the route. In case you may be unsure, many climbs are easily set up for top-roping. Rope Length As a traditional area, Enchanted Rock was bolted in the same fashion as many other multi-pitch trad areas. The anchors are designed for you to treat the climb as a multi-pitch endeavor and either walk off the top or rappel from designated rap stations. This means for instance that the climbing rope will not reach the ground to enable safely lowering a climber or rappelling from the anchors of various climbs on the northwest side of the main dome. In fact many rappel stations in that area require at least a 70 meter rope. We strongly suggest that you always tie a safety knot near the end of your rope before climbing or rappelling. The next suggestion is to traverse to the rappel station on the News Wall to descend from all of the back side climbs. This station is in Beer Can Alley between the climbs Nobody Likes Bryant Gumbel and Late Nite. You will find two large rap bolts at the break in the boulders. Please do not use this rap station for top-roping or other purposes (except in an emergency), to keep the bolts available for use in descending. Bolt Placements and Route Maintenance Under a long-standing agreement with TPWD, the Central Texas Climbing Committee (CTCC) oversees and maintains all fixed protection and anchors at Enchanted Rock. If you feel there is a placement that needs attention for any reason, please advise the park staff and also contact us promptly at centraltexascc@gmail.com. Please do not attempt to perform any maintenance work on your own, and be aware that any modification of the rock or an existing placement is illegal. Enchanted Rock SNA Climbing Routes List This brief list attempts to provide interested individuals with general information on the location and difficulty of a few representative climbs in various areas within the park. The climbs listed are rated according to the Yosemite Decimal System, and range from 5.0 to 5.11 with higher ratings indicating increasing difficulty. The short phrases following the rating indicate the type of climb and the quality of available protection (providing you find it). Most routes car be top-roped if an upper belay is desired. Free climbing is permitted in the park; the placement of bolts, pitons or other devices that deface the rock in any manner is not allowed. CLIMB CLEAN! EXISTING HARDWARE IS NOT APPROVED OR MAINTAINED BY TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT. THE DEPARTMENT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ACCIDENTS AND VISITORS CLIMB AT THEIR OWN RISK. Climb Name Becky Ben's Dilemma Boston Cave Crack Can Opener Chunky Tuna Cubes Dungeon Easier Than it Looks Eat Edge of Night Fear of Flying Frog False Determination Grand Traverse Grass Crack Hangover In The Beginning There Were Ducks Innominate Lichen Delight Little Feat Little Friskies Lunch Rock Middle Crack Mirage Motorboat Orange Peel Owl Raw Meat Ripple Runamuck Sanders Traverse Smorgasboard Snatch Solo South American Crack Stan and Lou Boulder Stranger than Friction Sweat Texas Flakes Texas Crude Top Choice Turkey Hooks Yellow Pages Climb Rating 5.9 5.95.7 5.6+ 5.75.5 5.9 5.6 5.5 5.10a 5.8 5.10 5.10a 5.11a 5.8+ 5.10 5.8 5.95.10b 5.8 5.9+ 5.9 V1+ 5.7+ 5.9+ 5.9 5.9 5.85.8 5.95.7 V0/2 5.6 5.8 5.8+ 5.8+ 5.8 - 5.10 5.10b 5.7 5.4 5.10 5.10 5.8 5.9-5.11 Type of Climb Wide hand crack Trough roof Face climb flake Wide crack Hand crack Undercling layback Dihedral Chimney Face climb Face crack Face climb Wide layback Traverse crack Hard crack Face climb fixed Hand and finger crack Layback flake Crack corner Layback Face climb Thin hand crack Hand crack Face climbing boulder Layback Hand crack layback Stem wide crack Thin finger tip layback Hand crack layback Hand crack Face climb fixed Undercling layback Face climbing boulder Variety, face climb Chimney hand crack Face climb Corner crack Face climbing boulder Face climb fixed Hand crack Flake layback Hand crack Hand crack Face climb Many cracks Protection Rating Good Fair Good Good Good Good Fair Top-Rope Far Good Fair Fair Good Good Good Good Very good Good Fair Far Good Good Top-Rope Good Fair Good Good Good Good Good Fair No Protection Good No Protection Top-Rope Fair No Protection Good Good Good Good Good Good Good