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Climbing at Enchanted Rock State Natural Area (SNA) in Texas. Published by Texas Parks & Wildlife.
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So You Want To Rock Climb or Boulder At E-Rock?
Important notes for climbers from the CTCC
Traditional Area
By its designation as a State Natural Area, the natural character and features of Enchanted Rock are protected for the
enjoyment of all visitors. We’re very fortunate that the granite domes and boulders at Enchanted Rock have enjoyed a long
and ongoing history of traditional-style ascents. The use of pitons is never allowed, and crack climbs are almost exclusively
protected using trad gear. A few climbs involve a mix of pre-placed bolts and trad gear placements (for example Mercy
Street on the News Wall). It is against park rules and regulations to use trees or other plants for protection, anchoring or
rappelling, and any such use is punishable by a fine.
As climbers we have a responsibility to be respectful of our surroundings and of the rights of other park visitors. If you
would like to learn how to trad climb or to place removable (“clean”) anchors, there are several experienced guide services
available for Enchanted Rock, and a list of these is available at www.tpwd.tx.us/state-parks/enchanted-rock. It is advised
that you fully learn and become fluent with these techniques before you attempt climbing in this traditional way.
Fixed Protection
No alteration of any rock feature or bolt is allowed without explicit written approval from TPWD. There are fixed expansion
bolts placed as climbing protection in many areas at Enchanted Rock. Many of these climbs were originally bolted on lead,
from the ground up. For the most part bolted routes should be considered “sporty” rather than “sport” meaning that there
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may be substantial run-outs between anchors, increasing the risk of falls. The park and community want to sustain the
legacy of these climbs and consider them and their story important to the climbing history at Enchanted Rock SNA. Before
you start a climb, please be sure you know what you are getting into and that you are capable of safely leading the route.
In case you may be unsure, many climbs are easily set up for top-roping.
Rope Length
As a traditional area, Enchanted Rock was bolted in the same fashion as many other multi-pitch trad areas. The anchors are
designed for you to treat the climb as a multi-pitch endeavor and either walk off the top or rappel from designated rap
stations. This means for instance that the climbing rope will not reach the ground to enable safely lowering a climber or
rappelling from the anchors of various climbs on the northwest side of the main dome. In fact many rappel stations in that
area require at least a 70 meter rope.
We strongly suggest that you always tie a safety knot near the end of your rope before climbing or rappelling. The next
suggestion is to traverse to the rappel station on the News Wall to descend from all of the back side climbs. This station is
in Beer Can Alley between the climbs Nobody Likes Bryant Gumbel and Late Nite. You will find two large rap bolts at the
break in the boulders. Please do not use this rap station for top-roping or other purposes (except in an emergency), to keep
the bolts available for use in descending.
Bolt Placements and Route Maintenance
Under a long-standing agreement with TPWD, the Central Texas Climbing Committee (CTCC) oversees and maintains all
fixed protection and anchors at Enchanted Rock. If you feel there is a placement that needs attention for any reason,
please advise the park staff and also contact us promptly at centraltexascc@gmail.com. Please do not attempt to perform
any maintenance work on your own, and be aware that any modification of the rock or an existing placement is illegal.
Enchanted Rock SNA Climbing Routes List
This brief list attempts to provide interested individuals with general information on the location and difficulty of a few
representative climbs in various areas within the park. The climbs listed are rated according to the Yosemite Decimal
System, and range from 5.0 to 5.11 with higher ratings indicating increasing difficulty. The short phrases following the rating
indicate the type of climb and the quality of available protection (providing you find it). Most routes car be top-roped if an
upper belay is desired.
Free climbing is permitted in the park; the placement of bolts, pitons or other devices that deface the rock in any manner is
not allowed. CLIMB CLEAN!
EXISTING HARDWARE IS NOT APPROVED OR MAINTAINED BY TEXAS PARKS AND WILDLIFE DEPARTMENT. THE
DEPARTMENT IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR ACCIDENTS AND VISITORS CLIMB AT THEIR OWN RISK.
Climb Name
Becky
Ben's Dilemma
Boston
Cave Crack
Can Opener
Chunky Tuna
Cubes
Dungeon
Easier Than it Looks
Eat
Edge of Night
Fear of Flying
Frog
False Determination
Grand Traverse
Grass Crack
Hangover
In The Beginning There Were Ducks
Innominate
Lichen Delight
Little Feat
Little Friskies
Lunch Rock
Middle Crack
Mirage
Motorboat
Orange Peel
Owl
Raw Meat
Ripple
Runamuck
Sanders Traverse
Smorgasboard
Snatch
Solo
South American Crack
Stan and Lou Boulder
Stranger than Friction
Sweat
Texas Flakes
Texas Crude
Top Choice
Turkey Hooks
Yellow Pages
Climb Rating
5.9
5.95.7
5.6+
5.75.5
5.9
5.6
5.5
5.10a
5.8
5.10
5.10a
5.11a
5.8+
5.10
5.8
5.95.10b
5.8
5.9+
5.9
V1+
5.7+
5.9+
5.9
5.9
5.85.8
5.95.7
V0/2
5.6
5.8
5.8+
5.8+
5.8 - 5.10
5.10b
5.7
5.4
5.10
5.10
5.8
5.9-5.11
Type of Climb
Wide hand crack
Trough roof
Face climb flake
Wide crack
Hand crack
Undercling layback
Dihedral
Chimney
Face climb
Face crack
Face climb
Wide layback
Traverse crack
Hard crack
Face climb fixed
Hand and finger crack
Layback flake
Crack corner
Layback
Face climb
Thin hand crack
Hand crack
Face climbing boulder
Layback
Hand crack layback
Stem wide crack
Thin finger tip layback
Hand crack layback
Hand crack
Face climb fixed
Undercling layback
Face climbing boulder
Variety, face climb
Chimney hand crack
Face climb
Corner crack
Face climbing boulder
Face climb fixed
Hand crack
Flake layback
Hand crack
Hand crack
Face climb
Many cracks
Protection Rating
Good
Fair
Good
Good
Good
Good
Fair
Top-Rope
Far
Good
Fair
Fair
Good
Good
Good
Good
Very good
Good
Fair
Far
Good
Good
Top-Rope
Good
Fair
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Fair
No Protection
Good
No Protection
Top-Rope
Fair
No Protection
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good
Good