The Chesapeake Bay Gateways Network is a partnership program of the National Park Service and a system of over 150 parks, refuges, museums, historic communities and water trails in the Chesapeake Bay watershed. As a partnership program, it is not considered a Unit of the National Park System. Sites in the greater Chesapeake Bay Watershed are eligible to participate in the Network, including sites in the Potomac River basin out to West Virginia and sites in the Susquehanna River basin out to New York State.
Official Brochure of Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail (NHT) in VA, MD, DE, DC, PA, NY. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Chesapeake Bay Gateways and Watertrails Network
https://www.nps.gov/cbgn/index.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chesapeake_Bay_Gateways_Network
The Chesapeake Bay Gateways Network is a partnership program of the National Park Service and a system of over 150 parks, refuges, museums, historic communities and water trails in the Chesapeake Bay watershed. As a partnership program, it is not considered a Unit of the National Park System. Sites in the greater Chesapeake Bay Watershed are eligible to participate in the Network, including sites in the Potomac River basin out to West Virginia and sites in the Susquehanna River basin out to New York State.
The Chesapeake Bay Gateways and Watertrails Network connects you with the natural and cultural heritage of the Chesapeake Bay watershed through more than 170 exceptional parks, wildlife refuges, museums, sailing ships, historic communities, trails and more. Gateways Network partner sites and water trails are the special places where you can experience the authentic Chesapeake.
Voyages and Explorations
Some journeys make good stories. Some make a
mark on history. The travels of John Smith, who
captained a small wooden boat across the
Chesapeake Bay in the early 1600s, did both.
Smith began exploring the Chesapeake Bay and rivers near
James Fort as soon as he arrived in 1607. He traveled many of
the Bay's tributaries before embarking on two major voyages
during the summer of 1608. His expedition ranged from the
James River in Virginia, to portions of the Chesapeakl"s
Eastern Shore, the Great Falls on the Potomac River, and the
mouth of the Susquehanna River near present-day Havre de
Grace, Maryland.
Smith and his crew sailed from a struggling
English outpost into a world they knew
little about. They had no maps to guide
them. T hey traveled an enormous web of
waterways, where forests were as vast as
the marsh. And it was not vacant terrain.
Both voyages lasted about two months and took place in a
sma ll open boat, equipped with one sail and oars for paddling.
Fifteen men traveled on the first voyage, between June 2 and
July 21. They sailed and rowed up the Eastern Shore as far as
the Nanticoke River, crossed the Bay near Calvert Cliffs, and
explored the Patapsco and Potomac rivers.
After a short stop at James Fort, Smith launched the boat
again, with thirteen men on board. Between July 24 and
September 7, they explored the Rappahannock, Patuxent,
and Susquehanna rivers.
In all, Smith documented nearly 3,000 miles of the Bay and its
rivers, as well the location oflndian communities, with
remarkable precision.
along the shoreline met Smith at nearly
every turn.
- -Today, you can follow Smith's travels on the Captain John
Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail, learn the
traditions of descendant American Indian tribes who still
live here, and experience the richness of the Chesapeake and
its rivers. By land and by water, you'll make discoveries of
your own.
A d ip tych sundial (which includes
a compass) would have been
among the instruments used for
navigation in Smith's day.
John Smith's map of the Chesapeake was remarkably accurate. Smith
explored the landscape by boat and on foot. Indians acted as guides
and shared information about areas that he did not reach in person.
John Smith and Jamestown
Adventures and Encounters
John Smith arrived on the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in
1607, along with three ships carrying English colonists. It
was a business \'enture, run by the Virginia Company of
London, \Vhich instructed the men to find gold and a
westward passage to the Pacific Ocean.
During his voyages, Smith visited many Indian communities
on both shores of the Bay and near the mouth of the
Susquehanna River. Some approached with caution or
hostility, but Smith generally restrained his men and the
tension of first encounters often shifted into trade and
feasting. He received valuable help from Indian guides and
interpreters. A Wiccocomico man named Mosco traveled
with them during parts of both voyages.
The colonists built a fort on what is now the James River in
Virginia, on the Bay's western shore. This outpost later
became Jamestown, the first capital of Virginia.
Smith was one of the fort's leaders and helped see the men
through difficu lt times. H is efforts in building relationships
with the Indians were essential to the survival of the colony.
Smith made note of many places known today, including
Calvert Cliffs - which he called "Rickards Cliffs"- and the
great marsh of Tangier Sound. When a storm blew awuy their
sail, the men took shelter on Bloodsworth Island, whi<:h
Smith dubbed "Limbo Isle," to repair the boat and search for
drinking water.
American Indians
Native people occupied the shores of the Chesapeake Bay
and its rivers for thousands of years before Europeans
arrived. The people were living in towns and dispersed
settlements on both sides of the Bay when the Virginia
colonists set up James Fort in 1607. Smith identified more
than 200 native communities on his map, although many
more existed than Smith encountered.
The region included Indian groups of different sizes, each
with their own identities. Some of these groups also paid
tribute to a powerful leader, known as Powhatan, who lived
at Werowocomoco on what is now the York River in Virginia.
The Atlantic short-nosed sturgeon was plentiful when
John Smith sailed across the Chesapeake Bay.
The simple wooden boat that carried Smith and his crew had both oars
and a sail. It was ideal for moving through shallow waters, but it was
also an open boat, exposing the men to heat"and storms.
At times the \\'aters they traveled were teeming with fish.
Smith reported "fish lying so thick with their heads above the
water as for want of nets (our barge driving amongst them)
we attempted to catch them with a frying pan."
The crew struggled in the summer heat, and many men fell
ill. One man, Richard Featherstone, died along the
Rappahannock River. His funeral took place at a site that
Smith called Featherstone
Chesapeake Bay Office
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
A BOATER’S GUIDE
TO THE
CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH CHESAPEAKE
NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAIL
BY JOHN PAGE WILLIAMS
IN PARTNERSHIP WITH THE
CHESAPEAKE CONSERVANCY
and the
CHESAPEAKE BAY FOUNDATION
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
PROJECT PARTNERS
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE CHESAPEAKE BAY OFFICE
National Park Service Chesapeake
Bay Office (CHBA) leads National
Park Service efforts to connect
people to the natural and cultural
heritage of the Chesapeake region.
CHBA administers the Chesapeake Bay
Gateways and Watertrails Network, the
Captain John Smith Chesapeake National
Historic Trail, and the Star-Spangled Banner National
Historic Trail. CHBA is a federal partner in the multistate and federal Chesapeake Bay Program and has
a leadership role in the federal coordinated Strategy
for Protecting and Restoring the Chesapeake Bay
Watershed, in response to Executive Order 13508,
issued in 2009.
To learn more about National Park Service initiatives
for the Chesapeake Bay and the best places to
experience the authentic Chesapeake, start with
online visits to the following websites:
Chesapeake Bay Gateways and Watertrails Network
www.baygateways.net
Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail
www.smithtrail.net
Star-Spangled Banner National Historic Trail
www.nps.gov/stsp
CHESAPEAKE CONSERVANCY
The Chesapeake Conservancy
is dedicated to ensuring
conservation, stewardship
and access for the Chesapeake Bay, its lands and
rivers. The Conservancy was created out of a merger
between the Friends of the John Smith Chesapeake
Trail and Friends of Chesapeake Gateways.
The Chesapeake Conservancy works toward three
strategic goals:
• To realize the full potential of the Captain John
Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail and
the Chesapeake Bay Gateways and Watertrails
Network, and coordinate with other Chesapeake
Bay trails to promote recreation and tourism along
with education about the Bay and its waterways
• To generate and direct public and private financial
and technical resources to conserve the Bay’s
significant landscapes and expand public access
• To advance the establishment of new conservation,
recreation and public access corridor designations
on the Chesapeake.
To learn more about the Chesapeake Conservancy’s
programs, visit www.chesapeakeconservancy.org,
contact info@chesapeakeconservancy.org, or call
443-321-3610.
CHESAPEAKE BAY FOUNDATION
The Chesapeake Bay Foundation
(CBF) was one of the founding
supporters for the Captain John
Smith Chesapeake National Historic
Trail. CBF is the largest privately
funded, nonprofit organization
dedicated solely to protecting
and restoring the Chesapeake Bay. The Foundation
offers a wide range of educational, advocacy, and
stewardship programs.
The Chesapeake Bay Foundation has adopted Captain
John Smith’s descriptions of the Chesapeake in the
early 1600s as a baseline for measuring a rich and
balanced Bay. CBF provides an annual State of the
Bay report comparing the current health of the Bay
to that baseline.
Contact the Chesapeake Bay Foundation at
webadmin@cbf.org or 410-268-8816. Visit the
foundation online at www.cbf.org.
i
About the Guide
A Boater’s Guide to the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail is a
joint project of the National Park Service Chesapeake Bay Office, the Chesapeake
Conservancy, and the Chesapeake Bay Foundation. As the first guide to America’s first
national water trail, this publication introduces paddlers and boaters to the best places
to access the trail. Author John Page Williams expertly weaves practical information
for today’s boaters with the historical context of the Chesapeake’s waters explored by
Captain John Smith four centuries ago.
The Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail was designated as
part of the National Trails System in 2006. The National Park Service completed a
comprehensive management plan in 2011 for the development of the trail. While
this Boater’s Guide describes many places where boaters can access and explore the
trail now, many more access areas and facilities will be added as trail development
continues. For this reason, the Boater’s Guide is an online publication, designed to be
updated as new information becomes available.
The National Park Service acknowledges with appreciation the contributions of the
Chesapeake Conservancy and the Chesapeake Bay Foundation as partners in creating
this first Boater’s Guide to the Smith trail. We appreciate also the reviewers who gave
feedback to improve the Guide. While we have endeavored to provide accurate current
information at the time of publication, trailhead details, in particular, are subject to
change. We encourage users of this Guide to verify contact information as they prepare
for their travels along the trail. We also invite users of the Guide to notify the author of
changes and new information to be considered for future editions. He can be reached
by e-mail at jpwilliams@cbf.org.