Rainbow Wilderness Area
Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics:
Area:
Walls
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
Willow Springs
11
107
147
23
Icebox Canyon
11
71
188
59
Pine Creek Canyon
28
194
264
173
Juniper Canyon
10
66
307
153
Oak Creek Canyon
14
60
274
104
Mt. Wilson
8
26
129
53
First Creek Canyon
7
31
39
23
Black Velvet Canyon
11
72
474
147
Whiskey Peak
6
58
154
44
Mud Springs Canyon
3
5
18
8
Windy Peak
4
20
12
5
Southern Outcrops
3
36
7
7
116
746
2013
799
TOTAL:
275/746 routes field verified – 36%
30 new routes not found in literature
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Red
Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide, Rock Climbing: Red Rocks, Red Rocks Climbing, and Red
Rock Odyssey and www.climbingredrocks.com. 33 new routes were discovered that were not
mentioned in the literature review. This included two fixed lines that provided access to the
Western Spaces Wall in Black Velvet Canyon. The hardware counts for the majority of the
climbs in the Rainbow Wilderness were collected from literary sources. Field verification of
this data was only possible on 275 of the 746 routes inventoried in the Rainbow Wilderness.
In other words, only 36% of the total hardware data in the Rainbow Wilderness could be
confirmed by field survey observations. This should be taken into consideration when making
an estimate of the overall accuracy of the bolt and anchor inventory data.
Willow Springs
Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics:
Wall:
# of Routes
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
Nadia’s Niche
5
0
1
N’Plus Ultra
6
9
0
Bigfoot Wall
10
33
4
Upper Tier & Bighorn Buttress
8
12
5
Lower Tier
20
39
4
Ragged Edges Cliff
28
28
4
Graduate Cliff
4
10
3
The Case Face
6
8
1
The Egg
1
0
0
Mossy Ledges
2
1
0
Sumo Greatness Slab
17
7
1
107
147
23
TOTAL:
37/107 routes field verified – 34%
1 new route not found in literature
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Red
Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide (pgs. 178-197), Rock Climbing: Red Rocks (pgs. 169-182),
Red Rocks Climbing (pgs. 129-133) and www.climbingredrocks.com. Sumo Greatness Slab,
The Case Face and the Bigfoot Wall were the only walls that were completely field verified for
bolts and anchors. The climbs on the other 9 walls in this area were verified to exist but the
nature and location of many of these climbs prohibited an accurate hardware count. The
route on The Egg was field verified but GPS data was not collected for this wall. It was
determined that the traditional nature of the climb and its relative lack of use did not constitute
the need for the survey team to undertake the dangerous approach necessary to reach the
wall.
Willow Springs
Access:
Take the Scenic Loop Road from the
BLM Visitor’s Center for approximately 7.3 miles until
the sign for Willow Springs. For Sumo Greatness
Slab, Mossy Ledges, The Graduate Cliff and The Case
Face drive to the and of the Willow Springs road and
park in the dirt parking area just past the picnic area
mentioned in Willow Springs East. The climbs on
Sumo Greatness Slab are found on both sides of the
petroglyphs discovered in this area and accessed by
the Petroglyph Wall Trail. The Graduate Cliff, The
Case Face and Mossy Ledges are accessed by a trail
(pictured right) heading southwest from the wash
paralleling the road toward the Ragged Edges Cliff.
Follow the trail a short distance then hike up a gully to the northwest to reach Mossy Ledges.
Accessing the Case Face requires you to continue following the trail toward the base of
Ragged Edges, then turn north (right) up a talus slope to an area above the cliff band. Stay
on the trail and turn north (right) to the reach the Case Face or follow the trail left (south) to
the Graduate Cliff. To reach the remaining walls park at the Hidden Falls/Lost Creek parking
area (pictured left), the first parking area on the
Willow Springs road. Ragged Edges Cliff is
accessed by hiking the Children’s Discovery Trail
(pictured right)
through the wash
then climb a
heavily braided
network of trails
over a small
mound before
reaching the
base of the cliff.
The Bigfoot Wall, Lower Tier and N’Plus Ultra areas can be
reached by hiking the Hidden Falls/Lost Creek Trail. After
crossing the wash you come to a wooden platform. Veer
left from the main trail just past the platform to reach the
Bigfoot Wall. N’Plus Ultra is accessed by turning south just
before reaching the Bigfoot Wall and bushwhacking
through a wash and scrub oak along the base of the eastfacing cliff. Follow a very faint trail to reach the climbs. The
Lower Tier is located at the end of the main trail on the
cliffs to the left and right of Hidden Falls. The Upper Tier and Bighorn Buttress are accessed
by scrambling over ledges from either to the north of N’Plus Ultra or the top of Ragged Edges
Cliff. The final area in Willow Springs, Nadia’s Niche, is best reached by hiking the SMYC
Trail from the Icebox Canyon parking area. Once below the climbs turn left (west) and take a
faint trail up the slope to the climbing area.
Willow Springs
Nadia’s Niche:
Fig. 1 (right): Nadia’s Niche is reached by
hiking the SMYC Trail from the Icebox Canyon
parking area. Once you see this formation look
for a faint trail heading directly up the slope to
access the climbs. A geocache was discovered
here near the campsite pictured below.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
5
0
1
0% field verified
N’Plus Ultra:
Fig. 2 (below/left): N’Plus Ultra is the area to the right and
left of the white pillar pictured here. Access these climbs by
approaching the Bigfoot Wall then turning south to bushwhack
and hike a faint trail through a wash to the base of the cliff.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
6
9
0
0% field verified
Willow Springs
Bigfoot Wall:
Routes
Bolts Anchors
Fig. 1 (above): The Bigfoot Wall is the varnished wall found
33
4
just behind the wooden platform on the Lost Springs/Hidden Falls 10
Trail. Cut left on a short trail to the base of the cliff.
100% field verified
Bighorn Buttress/Upper Tier:
Routes
Bolts Anchors
Fig. 2 (above): The Bighorn Buttress and Upper Tier are
access by scrambling over ledges from the top of either Ragged 8
12
5
Edges Cliff from the north or N’Plus Ultra area from the south.
0% field verified
The climbs ascends this large feature above Hidden Falls.
Willow Springs
Lower Tier:
Fig. 1 (above/right): Lower Tier has many climbs
to the right and left of Hidden Falls pictured in the
center of this photo. Access this area by hiking the
Hidden Falls/Lost Creek Trail to the end.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
20
39
4
0% field verified
1 new route not found in literature
Ragged Edges Cliff:
Fig. 2 (below/left): This popular area is
reached from the Lost Creek/Hidden Falls
parking area. Hike the Children’s Discovery Trail
through the wash before hiking one of several,
heavily braided trails that access the cliff. Climbs
ascend the low cliff band behind the small mound
pictured in the foreground.
Routes
Bolts Anchors
28
28
7% field verified
4
Willow Springs
Graduate Cliff:
Fig. 1 (right): The climbs here ascend the
right facing corner and face pictured here.
Access them by hiking a southwest trail from
the parking area at the end of Willow Springs
road. Hike to the base of the Ragged Edges
Cliff’s north end then continue up a talus
slope before turning left (south) to reach the
cliff.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
4
10
3
0% field verified
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
6
8
1
100% field verified
Case Face:
Fig. 2 (right): The
Case Face is reached by
following the approach to
the Graduate Cliff.
However, one must veer
north, away from the
Graduate Cliff, when the
trail splits above the talus
slope to reach the Case
Face. Climbs ascend the
smooth black and white
face with the splitter crack
running down its center.
Willow Springs
Mossy Ledges:
Fig. 1 (right): The Mossy Ledges area
is around the corner to the north from the
Case Face and Graduate Cliff areas.
Follow the same trail from the parking area
then bushwhack/scramble up an obvious
gully running northwest to the base of the
climbs. The two large pine trees mark the
base of the routes. The graffiti pictured
below was discovered on the approach to
Mossy Ledges.
Routes
Bolts Anchors
2
1
0
0% field verified
Sumo Greatness Slabs:
Fig. 2 (right): Also referred to
as Children’s Crag, these climbs
are found on both sides of the
petroglyph site at Willow Springs.
Access the climbs by hiking the
Petroglyph Trail and moving to the
base of the cliff. Four climbs were
established directly over the
archeological site but have since
been closed for obvious reasons.
Routes
Bolts Anchors
17
7
100% field verified
1
Icebox Canyon
Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics:
Wall:
# of Routes
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
Sunnyside Crag
22
11
12
Hot Time Area
5
0
0
Buffalo Wall
3
100
17
Hidden Wall
1
0
0
South Wall – Quiggle’s Wiggle
1
0
0
South Wall – Weenie Juice
1
0
1
Refrigerator Wall
10
47
12
Smears for Fears
5
13
3
Upper Bridge Mountain
2
0
0
Frigid Air Buttress
8
12
7
The Necromancer
8
2
4
Tango Towers
5
3
3
71
188
59
TOTAL:
28/71 routes field verified – 39%
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Red
Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide (pgs. 199-223), Rock Climbing: Red Rocks (pgs. 186-207),
Red Rock Odyssey (pgs. 138-151), and www.climbingredrocks.com. Icebox Canyon is where
we begin to see the type of long, traditional routes Red Rock Canyon is known for. Exact
hardware counts are impossible to collect from the ground on these types of climbs. We were,
however, able to verify the hardware on the climbs at Hot Time Area, Quiggle’s Wiggle,
Smears for Fears, and The Necromancer. The bolt and anchor data for the remaining areas
was obtained from the literature review. Routes on the Hidden Wall and Upper Bridge
Mountain were not field surveyed due to the dangerous nature of the approach and relative
lack of popularity of these areas.
Icebox Canyon
Access:
Take the Scenic Loop Road from the BLM Visitor’s Center for approximately
8 miles until the sign for Icebox Canyon appears on your right. The climbs for this area are
all accessed by hiking the Icebox Canyon trail into the canyon. Climbs are located on both
the north and south walls as you hike in. The Buffalo Wall and Hidden Wall are reached
after strenuous 5th class scrambling up the north fork of the canyon, well beyond were most
visitors turn back upon reaching the “end” of the canyon.
Fig. 1: Pictured above is the view of Icebox Canyon Trail from the parking
area as it enters the canyon to the west.
Icebox Canyon
Sunnyside Crag:
Fig. 1 (right): Sunnyside
Crag is the first climbing area
on the north side of the canyon
as you hike the Icebox Canyon
Trail. After approximately 30
minutes of hiking take a side
trail that accesses the
Sunnyside Crag. Look for a
large boulder and pine tree
under a roof marking the west
end of the crag.
Routes
Bolts Anchors
22
11
12
36% field verified
Hot Time Area:
Fig. 2 (below): This distinctive roof feature is located past the Sunnyside Crag on the
north side of the canyon. Hike into the canyon until you cross a blockage of several large
boulders. Scramble up and around the boulders before reaching ledges that bring you to
the Hot Time Area climbs.
Routes
Bolts Anchors
5
0
100% field verified
0
Icebox Canyon
Buffalo Wall:
Fig. 1 (right): The Buffalo Wall is
the massive feature at the end of the
north fork of Icebox Canyon. The
name comes from the distinctive
varnished rock that looks like a
buffalo when viewed from a distance.
Dangerous and committing 5th class
scrambling approaches this climb.
Hike up Icebox Canyon to the point
where the north fork splits off to the
right. Begin picking your way over
boulders and ledges, ascending fixed
lines, and climbing 5th class rock to
reach the base of the wall.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
3
100
17
0% field verified
South Wall – Quiggle’s Wiggle:
Fig. 2 (left): Hike up Icebox Canyon to
the point where the north fork splits off to
the right. Veer left to continue along the
south fork until reaching the end above a
pool and waterfall. Quiggle’s Wiggle
climbs the wall at the end of the canyon to
the left of the waterfall.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
1
0
0
100% field verified
Icebox Canyon
South Wall – Weenie Juice:
Fig. 1 (left): Hike into Icebox
Canyon as you would to approach
Quiggle’s Wiggle. Before reaching
the end of the south fork of the
canyon you will see this prominent,
right-facing arch high on the South
Wall. The climb ascends the crack
and flake as it moves up and arches
right.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
1
0
1
0% field verified
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
10
47
12
0% field verified
Refrigerator Wall:
Fig. 2 (below): The
Refrigerator Wall is
reached by hiking into
Icebox Canyon past
Sunnyside Crag. A little
more than 30 minutes
from the parking area
this wall rises up on the
south side of the canyon.
Access it by scrambling
up to the base of the cliff
from the wash.
Icebox Canyon
Smears for Fears:
Fig. 1 (right): The Smears for
Fears area climbs the large buttress
to the east of the Refrigerator Wall.
Hike into the canyon until it narrows
and Sunnyside Crag is on your right
(north) side. Cross the wash and
scramble up to the base of this
varnished, north-facing wall.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
5
13
3
100% field verified
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
8
12
7
12% field verified
Frigid Air Buttress:
Fig. 2 (left): Just east of
Smears for Fears is a large
amphitheatre formation on
the south side of the canyon.
The buttress that makes up
its west wall is the Frigid Air
Buttress. Hike into the
canyon on the Icebox Canyon
Trail and split off to the south
before you reach the access
for Smears for Fears.
Boulder hop and scramble
into the amphitheatre to reach
the climbs.
Icebox Canyon
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
8
2
4
100% field verified
The Necromancer:
Fig. 1 (above): The Necromancer is
the northwest facing wall directly across
the amphitheatre formation described
above for the Frigid Air Buttress. Hike into
Icebox Canyon until you are directly
across from this varnished wall. Leave
the trail and hike through a wash and up a
slope to reach the base of the wall.
Tango Towers:
Fig. 2 (right): The Tango Towers are
large pinnacle formations found high on
the southeast side of the amphitheatre
formation described above. Dangerous,
expedition style hiking takes you to the
base of these climbs. Hike from the main
Icebox Canyon Trail and move up and into
the tower formations as best you can.
Technical gear is recommended.
Routes
Bolts Anchors
5
3
0% field verified
3
