Mt. Charleston Wilderness Area
Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics:
Area:
Walls
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
The Hood
11
108
621
80
The Glass House
1
9
60
7
The Ice House
1
18
112
17
13
135
793
104
TOTAL:
132/135 routes field verified – 97.8%
6 new routes not found in literature.
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered
from Islands in the Sky and Las Vegas Limestone climbing guidebooks. Seven
routes, including one fixed line located at The Glass House, were discovered that
were not identified in the literature. Bolt and anchor counts were field verified for
all routes in Mt. Charleston with the exception of Unknown Project #3 and A Finish
at The Hood and Satellite at The Ice House.
The Hood
Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics:
Wall:
# of Routes
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
Gorillas in the Mist Wall
7
24
6
Infectious Cave
12
70
6
Infectious Slab
3
7
2
Small Buttress
3
3
3
Walk By Slab
12
70
9
Corrosion Cave
6
31
5
Pine Tree Ledge
9
67
11
South Central
20
116
16
The Soul Cave
10
37
3
Soul Slab
10
59
6
Compton Cave
16
137
11
108
621
80
TOTAL:
106/108 routes field verified – 98%
6 new routes not found in literature.
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Islands in
the Sky (pgs. 51-73) and Las Vegas Limestone (pgs. 15-32) climbing guides. Exact bolt and
anchor counts were obtained for all routes by field survey with the exception of A Finish on Soul
Slab and South Central Project #1. We were unable to view the tops of these routes from the
ground and reported only the hardware we were able to see.
The Hood
Access:
The Hood is accessed by starting at the Trail Canyon trailhead (fig. 1) and hiking
roughly 500 yards up the trail. A climber’s trail branches off to the left (fig. 2) shortly
after a sign proclaiming the area as designated Wilderness. Hike up this path
approximately 150 yards until you reach the base of The Hood at the Corrosion
Cave. There is a fairly well used access trail running the length of The Hood from
Gorillas in the Mist Wall to Compton Cave.
Fig. 1 (above): Trail Canyon trailhead – detour around construction area.
Fig. 2 (right): Climber trail accessing the
hood. Split left from main trail just past
Wilderness Area sign.
The Hood
Gorillas in the Mist Wall:
Fig 1. (below): This is the far left wall at the Southwest end of The Hood and at the start
of the user created access trail running the length of the area.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
7
24
6
1 new route not found in literature.
100% field verified.
Infectious Cave:
Fig. 2 (below): Located to the East of Gorillas in the Mist Wall just past a large
pine tree.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
12
70
6
3 new routes not found in literature.
100% field verified.
The Hood
Infectious Slab:
Fig 1. (right): Just east of
Infectious Cave is Infectious Slab. A
narrow, low-angle buttress with only
three routes.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
3
7
2
100% field verified
Small Buttress:
Fig 2. (left): A short buttress behind
a pine tree, this crag is west of Walk By
Slab and separated from Infectious
Slab to the east by a short walk past a
slope leading up to several
undeveloped, blank faces.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
3
3
3
1 new route not found in literature
100% field verified
The Hood
Walk By Slab:
Fig. 1 (right): This larger slab
is just west of Small Buttress and
just around the east corner of
Corrosion Cave.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
12
70
9
100% field verified
Corrosion Cave:
Fig. 2 (left): This crag is directly at
the top of the access trail from Trail
Canyon. Head left (west) to reach
Gorillas in the Mist Wall, Infectious
Cave and Slab, Small Buttress, and
Walk By Slab. Hike right (east) to
reach Pine Tree Ledge, South
Central, The Soul Cave and Slab, and
Compton Cave.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
6
31
5
100% field verified
The Hood
Pine Tree Ledge:
Fig. 1 (below): To reach the climbs at this wall head west from the top of the access
trail and scramble up a short slab (15 ft.) to a ledge with a large pine tree on the right end.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
9
67
11
100% field verified
South Central:
Fig. 2 (below): Right of Pine Tree Ledge is South Central. A long, vertical face
stretching to the east, this is the largest crag at The Hood and spans nearly 75 meters
from Pine Tree Ledge to The Soul Cave.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
20
116
16
1 new route not found in literature
95% field verified
The Hood
The Soul Cave:
Fig. 1 (right): This smaller cave marks
the east end of South Central. Routes
begin at both sides of the cave and crisscross as they climb up and over to the face
above.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
10
37
3
100% field verified
Soul Slab:
Fig. 2 (left): A narrow buttress
separating The Soul Cave to the
west from Compton Cave to the east.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
10
59
6
90% field verified
The Hood
Compton Cave:
Fig 1: (below): This is the huge cave at the far east end of The Hood. The access
trail ends just past this cave and overlooks the Trail Canyon Trail below.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
16
137
11
100% field verified
The Glass House
Rock climbing inventory statistics:
Wall:
The Glass House
TOTAL:
# of Routes
9
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
60
7
9
60
9/9 routes field verified – 100%
7
Route information and locations were identified based upon information
gathered from Islands in the Sky (pgs. 96-97) and Las Vegas Limestone
(pgs. 41-44) climbing guides. Exact bolt and anchor counts were
obtained for all routes by field survey and includes a fixed-rope line with
single bolt attachment points at either end. This rope allows access
from the right side of the wall to the left (north to south) as it traverses
over a steep section of the access ledge.
The Glass House
Access:
To reach The Glass House begin at a trailhead just south of the pull-out for
Robber’s Roost on Hwy 158 (fig. 1). Hike up a short way along an old section of
road and turn west (left) when a trail branches up through a wooded gully (fig. 2).
This trail passes through a pine forest and passes several primitive campsites
before entering a rocky wash. Turn left again to head south up a rocky hillside (fig.
3) that leads directly to The Glass House. This trial is faint at best and eventually
disappears altogether as it climbs higher into a talus slope.
Fig. 1 (above): Parking area for
access to The Glass House.
Notice the first part of the trail is
along old Hwy. 158.
Fig. 2 (above): Trail heading east into
wooded campsite area.
Fig. 3 (left): Trail heading south up
slope to access The Glass House.
The Glass House
The Glass House:
The wall is divided into a right and left side by a fixed line that traverses over a
steep section of the ledge that accesses both sections of the area (Fig. 2).
Fig. 1 (left): The right side of The
Glass House climbing area.
Fig. 2 (right): Fixed line connecting the
north and south ends of The Glass
House climbing area.
The Ice House
Rock climbing inventory statistics:
Wall:
The Ice House
TOTAL:
# of Routes
18
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
112
17
18
112
17/18 routes field verified – 94%
17
Route information and locations were identified based upon information
gathered from the Islands in the Sky (pgs. 98-99) climbing guide. Exact
bolt and anchor counts were obtained for all routes by field survey with
the exception of Satellite. This route was located up on a ledge and
prevented us from viewing the top of the route from the ground. The
reported number of bolts and anchors reflects those that were visually
confirmed and those that are reported to exist in the climbing guide.
The Ice House
Access:
Accessing The Ice House requires driving up private roads near the top of Hwy. 158
just past mile marker 5. Turn off of the highway at the parking area for the archery
range belonging to a summer camp located further off the road. Drive up through
several meandering 4x4 roads until you reach a gate preventing further access.
Continue on foot past the gate through several trailer campsites and building lots
until you reach the top of the road. From here hike southwest along a sparsely
forested ridge to the base of a scree covered slope. The trail is extremely faint. As
you move higher up the slope the trail turns west at the base of a cliff. Follow the
cliff to the west until you reach The Ice House.
This faint trail at the top of the road allows access to The Ice House. The ridge
continues southwest through the trees. The Ice House can just be seen through the
trees in the upper-right of the picture.
The Ice House
Fig. 1 (above): The Ice House as seen
from the top of the road. Climbing is
located all along the white cliff band
that slopes down and right through the
middle of the picture.
Fig. 2 (right): Looking along the length
of The Ice House from the far east end.
