by Alex Gugel , all rights reserved
![]() | La Madre MountainRock Climbing Inventory |
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La Madre Wilderness Area
Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics:
Area:
Walls
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
La Madre North
3
24
136
22
Kraft Mt./Gateway Canyon
18
102
312
57
White Rock Springs
4
23
15
7
Willow Springs East
3
11
13
1
The Promised Land
3
24
129
14
31
184
605
101
TOTAL:
167/184 routes field verified – 90%
7 new routes not found in literature
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered
from www.climbingredrocks.com and all six guidebooks: Islands in the Sky, Las
Vegas Limestone, Red Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide, Rock Climbing: Red
Rocks, Red Rocks Climbing, and Red Rock Odyssey. Six new routes were
discovered that were not mentioned in the literature review. This included one
fixed line that provided access to the Upper Ledge of The Promised Land. The
climbs at the Angel Food Wall (White Rock Springs) and at White Rock Springs
Peak were not field verifiable for bolt and anchor counts. Also, hardware data for
two routes at Kraft Rocks Upper Tier and The Cave (The Promised Land) was not
able to be field verified from the ground. Hardware data was collected and
verified by field observations for all of the remaining climbs in the La Madre
Wilderness Area.
LaMadre North
Rock climbing inventory statistics:
Wall:
Test Site
Area 51
Dreamland
TOTAL:
# of Routes
11
10
3
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
56
63
17
24
136
24/24 routes field verified – 100%
1 new route not found in literature.
10
9
3
22
Route information and locations were identified based upon information
gathered from the Islands in the Sky (pgs. 101-105) climbing guide.
Exact bolt and anchor counts were obtained for all routes by field
survey.
La Madre North
Access:
To reach the climbing areas at La Madre North a four-wheel drive vehicle with good
clearance is recommended. Drive down Hwy. 157 approximately 7 miles until you
reach a left turn just past Scottie Street on the right. Take this dirt road until it turns
into a 4x4 road that parallels a wash. Continue on the 4x4 road until a steep track
leads you down into the wash. Follow the wash to the northeast for about 2 miles
to a narrow section next to another wash that branches out to the south. This is the
access to the Test Site. Reach the crag by hiking up the wash and meandering
over desert terrain to the prominent cliff band to the southeast. Approximately 0.25
miles past this point is another side gully (fig. 1) leading to the south. Follow this
branch up and into a series of canyons to reach Area 51. Finally, 0.5 miles further
down the main wash is a pair of gullies that allow access to Dreamland. Hike up
the gully on the right a short ways before scrambling up and onto flat desert terrain.
Head for the cave set back into the hillside to the south.
Fig. 1 (left): Side gully accessing Area
51. The climbing is found by hiking up
the wash in the foreground to the lowest
branch of the canyon seen in the middle
of the picture.
Fig. 2 (right): Access to Dreamland
is up the gully to the right. The
steeper gully to the right turns into a
box canyon. Dreamland is the dark
cave in the center of the picture
between the two gullies.
La Madre North
Test Site:
Fig. 1 (below): This long wall can be seen in the distance from the wash where
you park. Hike up a gully from the main wash and then continue across desert
terrain until you reach the wall.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
11
56
10
100% field verified
1 new route not found in literature
Test Site Boulder:
Fig. 2 (left): This boulder has one route
on it and is located just below the main
Test Site wall at the far southwest end.
La Madre North
Area 51:
Fig. 1 (below): This large area is found in a series of canyons that
can be viewed from the main wash to the northeast of Test Site.
More climbs can be found around and up to the right of this picture.
A raptor nest was discovered at this crag.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
10
63
9
100% field verified
Dreamland:
Fig. 2 (below/left): This cave is the last crag at
the northeast end of the La Madre North area
and can just barely be seen from the main wash.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
3
17
3
100% field verified
Kraft Mountain and Gateway Canyon
Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics:
Wall:
# of Routes
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
Kraft Rocks Lower Tier
5
1
0
Kraft Rocks Upper Tier
6
2
1
Kraft Rocks Unknown Wall
4
2
0
The Mall (The Playground)
16
44
9
Conundrum Crag
4
15
3
Family Crag
4
20
3
The Garbled Mass (Swirly Cliff)
1
0
0
Cop Crag (Swirly Cliff)
4
21
4
Cannabis Crag
10
53
12
Cannabis Crag West
2
0
0
Winter Heat Wall
14
27
6
Sunny and Steep Wall
16
101
14
Golden Nugget Boulder
2
7
2
Judgment Day Crag
4
10
2
Chunder Bolt Wall
1
9
1
Atman Crag East
3
0
0
Atman Crag West
4
0
0
Meyers Cracks
2
0
0
102
312
57
TOTAL:
100/102 routes field verified – 98%
4 new routes not found in literature
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from
Red Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide (pgs. 45-61), and Rock Climbing: Red Rocks (pgs.
39-55). Exact bolt and anchor counts were verified for all routes with the exception of the
Kraft Rocks upper tier anchor on routes Weasel Yeast and Weasel Cheese.
Kraft Mountain and
Gateway Canyon Areas
Access:
Kraft Mountain and Gateway canyon are located on the northeast side of
Calico Basin. Drive west from Las Vegas on Charleston Blvd, which turns into State
Highway 159, and turn right on Calico Basin Road about 2 miles before the access to the
Scenic Loop Road. Follow this road as it winds around to the left and then right up to a
parking lot about 1.1 miles from the highway. The parking area is at a cul-de-sac at the end
of Sandstone Drive. You will see an empty, fenced-in lot on the left and a fenced-in field
behind a house on your right. Hike down the trail dividing the empty lot and the field until
you cross a large wash. Keep your eyes peeled for trails heading east or west around Kraft
Mountain. Follow these trails to access the climbs on Kraft Mountain and Gateway Canyon.
Kraft Mountain
Kraft Rocks – Lower Tier:
Fig. 1 (right): The Lower Tier of Kraft
Rocks is directly in front of you as you hike
towards Kraft Mountain from the parking
area. The climbs are above the split
boulder (Plumber’s Crack Boulder) shown
in the foreground.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
5
1
0
100% field verified
Kraft Rocks – Upper Tier:
Fig. 2 (below/right): The Upper Tier
of Kraft Rocks is located up and to the
right of the Lower Tier as you move East
along Kraft Mountain.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
6
2
1
66% field verified
Kraft Mountain
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
4
2
0
100% field verified
4 new routes not found in literature
Kraft Rocks – Unknown Wall:
Fig. 1 (above): These climbs are
further to the East along Kraft
Mountain from the Upper Tier. The
wall pictured above is South facing and
hold two unknown mixed routes.
Fig. 2 (right): Another part of the
Unknown Wall at Kraft Rocks. This left
facing corner holds two unknown trad
routes.
Kraft Mountain
The Mall:
Fig. 1 (above): Also known as the Playground, this wall
is located at the far East end of Kraft Mountain. Climbs are
located on both the upper ledge and at ground level.
Conundrum Crag:
Fig. 2 (right): The
Conundrum crag, with
several sport and mixed
routes, is located on the
back (North) side of Kraft
Mountain. Hike around from
The Mall until just before
entering Gateway Canyon.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
4
15
3
100% field verified
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
16
44
9
100% field verified
Kraft Mountain
Family Crag:
Fig. 1 (right): The Family Crag
is just north of Conundrum Crag on
the back side of Kraft Mountain.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
4
20
3
100% field verified
Fig. 2 (right): From the
Family Crag one must use
this trail to access the east
entrance of Gateway Canyon.
The Garbled Mass is just
visible in the middle of the
scene.
Gateway Canyon
The Garbled Mass:
Fig. 1 (above): The Garbled Mass is the first crag you
come to as you travel west through Gateway Canyon. It is on
the north side, to the right as you approach, and makes up
the east end of the Swirly Cliff area.
Cop Crag:
Fig. 2 (right): The Cop
Crag (central Swirly Cliff
area) is just to the west of the
Garbled Mass as you move
deeper into Gateway Canyon.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
4
21
4
100% field verified
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
1
0
0
100% field verified
Gateway Canyon
Cannabis Crag:
Fig. 1 (left/below): The Cannabis Crag, with
10 sport routes, is past the Cop Crag on the
north side of Gateway Canyon as you move
further west.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
10
53
12
100% field verified
Cannabis Crag West:
Fig. 2 (right): Cannabis Crag West
is located on the south side of Gateway
Canyon directly across from the
Cannabis Crag. It is difficult to find
having only two traditional routes.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
2
0
0
100% field verified
Gateway Canyon Northwest
Winter Heat Wall:
Fig. 1 (above): As you continue into Gateway Canyon from
the east it narrows and becomes choked off by scrub oak and
boulders. Past this, when the canyon opens up again, you will
find the Winter Heat Wall on the south side of the canyon.
Sunny and Steep
Wall:
Fig. 2 (right): Sunny and
Steep Wall is located just
west of Winter Heat Wall on
the north side of the canyon.
It has 16 sport routes of all
difficulties.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
16
101
14
100% field verified
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
14
27
6
100% field verified
Gateway Canyon Northwest
Golden Nugget Boulder:
Routes
Bolts Anchors
Fig. 1 (above): This feature is to the west of Sunny and
2
7
2
Steep Wall at approximately the same level above the canyon
floor. It is possible to access both areas from the wash or
100% field verified
traverse between them along easy slabs and ledges.
Judgment Day Crag:
Fig. 2 (right): Judgment
Day Crag is on the south
side of Gateway Canyon to
the west and across from
the Golden Nugget Boulder.
Scramble up slabs to reach
the climbs.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
4
10
2
100% field verified
Gateway Canyon Northwest
Chunder Bolt Wall:
Fig. 1 (right): This wall has one
sport route and is located at the west
end of Gateway Canyon as it opens up
behind Kraft Mountain. It rises over
the floor of the wash on the north side
of the canyon.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
1
9
1
100% field verified
Fig. 2 (left): At the west end of Gateway
Canyon this trail enters the wash from
above. This trail accesses climbs along
Kraft Mountain’s west end and eventually
loops around to the parking area. It’s a
bit of a drop to the floor of the wash, but
the trail is more moderate as you move
up and around Kraft Mountain.
Gateway Canyon Northwest
Atman Crag East:
Fig. 1 (right): The east side of Atman
Crag has routes climbing these smooth
faces and cracks. This climber is at the
top of Ying Yang Crack. Climbs are
accessed by hiking up from Gateway
Canyon below or circling around from the
Kraft Mountain Trail to the West.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
3
0
0
100% field verified
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
4
0
0
100% field verified
Atman Crag West:
Fig. 2 (right): Atman
Crag West is at the west
end of Kraft Mountain and
is easily accessible from
the Kraft Mountain Trail as
you pass by before going
down into Gateway
Canyon.
Gateway Canyon Northwest
Meyer’s Crack:
Fig. 1 (above): The Meyer’s Cracks are two lesser known traditional climbs on the north
side of Gateway Canyon, at the very west end past Kraft Mountain. The canyon continues
west and north as it becomes less defined. The climbs are just before the canyon opens up
and veers to the north.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
2
0
0
100% field verified
White Rock Springs
Rock Climbing Inventory Statistics:
Wall:
# of Routes
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
Angel Food Wall
12
10
4
White Rock Springs Peak
1
0
0
Sheep Skull Crag
8
5
3
The Ledger Crags
2
0
0
23
15
7
TOTAL:
10/23 routes field verified – 43%
2 new routes not found in literature
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered from Red
Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide (pgs. 164-171), Rock Climbing: Red Rocks (pgs. 162166), Red Rocks Climbing (pgs. 136-138), Red Rock Odyssey (pgs. 78-93) and
www.climbingredrocks.com. Exact bolt and anchor counts were verified for all routes on
the Sheep Skull and Ledger Crags. However, the Angel Food Wall and White Rock
Springs Peak climbs were not entirely visible from the ground. Therefore, an accurate
hardware count was not possible.
White Rock Springs
Access:
Take the Scenic Loop Road from the BLM Visitor’s Center for approximately
5.8 miles until you see a right hand turn for White Rock Springs. Follow the gravel road to
the end and park. The Angel Food Wall will be to your left and is the dominant feature on
the escarpment in front of you. It looks like tall pillars of white cake-like rock. The picture
below shows the best trail to access the Angel Food Wall. Sheep Skull Crags and Ledger
Crags are further to the south along the cliff and are reached by hiking along the Willow
Springs Trail toward Willow Springs.
White Rock Springs
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
12
10
4
0% field verified
Angel Food Wall:
Fig. 1 (above): White Rock Springs main attraction is the Angel
food Wall pictured above. To access this wall hike west from the
parking area to reach the Willow Springs Trail. Turn left (south) and
continue until you see the trail pictured on the previous page. This
trail will take you straight to the wall after some light scrambling up
the approach slope.
White Rock Springs Peak:
Fig. 2 (right): This peak is visible
to the west from the parking area.
Take a bearing and start hiking. The
approach is up a moderate slope
and takes a little over an hour.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
1
0
0
0% field verified
White Rock Springs
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
8
5
3
100% field verified
2 new routes not found in literature
Sheep Skull Crags:
Fig. 1 (above): Continue south on the Willow Springs Trail about 20 minutes past the
access trail for the Angel Food Wall. Look for this east facing wall to your right just past a
gully separating Sheep Skull Crags from the Ledger Crags. Take a faint path up to the
base of the wall.
Ledger Crags:
Fig. 2 (right): The
Ledger Crags are across
the gully to the north from
Sheep Skull Crags. There
are two good, but relatively
overlooked, traditional
routes here.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
2
0
0
100% field verified
Willow Springs East
Rock climbing inventory statistics:
Wall:
Upper Outhouse Wall
Lower Outhouse Wall
The Dark Thumb
TOTAL:
# of Routes
3
6
2
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
0
0
13
11
13
11/11 routes field verified – 100%
0
0
1
1
Route information and locations were identified based upon information gathered
from Red Rock Canyon: A Climbing Guide (pgs. 173-176). Exact bolt and anchor
counts were verified for all routes in Willow Springs East.
Access:
Take the Scenic Loop Road from the BLM Visitor’s Center for
approximately 7.3 miles until you see a right hand turn for Willow Springs. Take the road
to a picnic area at the end and park. The Outhouse Walls are directly behind the
picnic/spring area and are easily accessible by a short walk from the car. The Lower Wall
is at ground level directly behind the bathroom and picnic tables. The Upper Wall requires
a short walk north past the picnic area to a spot where you can scramble up to the ledges
above. Traverse back along the ledges until you reach the climbs. The Dark Thumb is
accessed by hiking the Willow Springs Trail east from the Hidden Falls/Lost Creek parking
area. Once the red dirt trail turns to brown branch off the main trail and head up to the
distinct pillar known as the Owl. From the Owl head straight north up the slope to reach
the Dark Thumb.
Willow Springs East
Outhouse Walls:
Fig. 1 (above): The Upper
and Lower Outhouse Walls are
located directly behind and
above the picnic/spring area
seen here. The lower band of
huecoed rock behind the trees
make up the Lower Outhouse
Wall. The three climbs of the
Upper Outhouse Wall can be
found in the whitish rock in the
upper portion of the photo.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
9
0
0
100% field verified
The Dark Thumb:
Fig. 2 (right): This feature can be
accessed from the Willow Springs Trail.
Head southeast from the parking area uphill
until the red dirt trail turns to brown. Turn off
of the main trail and head up toward a
distinct pillar known as the Owl. From there
turn left (north) to scramble up the final
approach.
Routes
Bolts Anchors
2
13
100% field verified
1
The Promised Land
Rock climbing inventory statistics:
Wall:
The Cave
Upper Ledge
Lower Ledge
TOTAL:
# of Routes
9
7
8
# of Bolts
# of Anchors
53
33
43
24
129
22/24 routes field verified – 91%
4
2
8
14
Route information and locations were identified based upon information
gathered from Islands in the Sky (pgs. 121-123) and Las Vegas
Limestone (pgs. 58-61) climbing guides. Exact bolt and anchor counts
were obtained for all routes by field survey with the exception of two
unknown projects that did not appear to have bolts within visible range.
This inventory includes a fixed rope that accesses the Upper Ledge
from the Lower Ledge. It also includes 3 bolts at the base of the ledge
that appear to be used as belay anchors for the climbs on Upper Ledge.
The Promised Land
Access:
The Promised Land is accessed by driving up the Rocky Gap Road until you see an
old 4x4 road split off to the right past some boulders and signs identifying the land
beyond as wilderness area (fig. 1). Hike up the old 4x4 road until it veers sharply
left and up a slope. Take the trail that splits off to the right (fig. 2) until you find
yourself down in a wash. Hike up the wash approximately 1 km to the base of The
Promised Land.
Fig. 1 (left): The old 4x4 road starts
at signs for the Wilderness Area
boundary from the Rocky Gap Road.
Fig. 2 (right): Trail branching off
from the old 4x4 road. Start
between the two dead trees and
continue down into the wash that
accesses The Promised Land.
The Promised Land
Fig. 1 (above): The Promised Land is
made up by The Cave to the left and
the Upper and Lower Ledges to the
right.
Routes
Bolts
Anchors
24
129
14
91% field verified
Fig. 2 (right): Fixed rope allowing access
from the Lower Ledge to the Upper
Ledge.