"Virgin River Canyon, Arizona" by NPS , public domain
Old Spanish
National Historic Trail - AZ,CA,CO,NV,NM,UT
The Old Spanish Trail (Spanish: Viejo Sendero Español) is a historical trade route that connected the northern New Mexico settlements of (or near) Santa Fe, New Mexico with those of Los Angeles, California and southern California. Approximately 700 mi (1,100 km) long, the trail ran through areas of high mountains, arid deserts, and deep canyons. It is considered one of the most arduous of all trade routes ever established in the United States. Explored, in part, by Spanish explorers as early as the late 16th century, the trail was extensively used by traders with pack trains from about 1830 until the mid-1850s.
Map of Baaj Nwaavjo I’tah Kukveni - Ancestral Footprints of the Grand Canyon National Monument (NM) in Arizona. Published by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).
Map of the Daily Lottery Permit Application Geofence Perimeter for Coyote Buttes North (The Wave) and South in the Vermilion Cliffs National Monument (NM), Arizona Strip BLM Field Office area and Kanab BLM Field Office area in Utah and Arizona. Published by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).
Brochure of Old Spanish National Historic Trail (NHT) in the BLM Barstow Field Office area in California. Published by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).
The National Historic Trail route across Nevada. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
https://www.nps.gov/olsp/index.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Old_Spanish_Trail_(trade_route)
The Old Spanish Trail (Spanish: Viejo Sendero Español) is a historical trade route that connected the northern New Mexico settlements of (or near) Santa Fe, New Mexico with those of Los Angeles, California and southern California. Approximately 700 mi (1,100 km) long, the trail ran through areas of high mountains, arid deserts, and deep canyons. It is considered one of the most arduous of all trade routes ever established in the United States. Explored, in part, by Spanish explorers as early as the late 16th century, the trail was extensively used by traders with pack trains from about 1830 until the mid-1850s.
Follow the routes of mule pack trains across the Southwest on the Old Spanish National Historic Trail between Santa Fe, New Mexico, and Los Angeles, California. New Mexican traders moved locally produced merchandise across what are now six states to exchange for mules and horses.
You can visit many sites of the Old Spanish National Historic Trail over the 2,700-mile historic route that crosses 6 states.
Santa Rosa de Lima de Abiquiú, Abiquiú, New Mexico
crumbling adobe structure with blue sky
Santa Rosa de Lima de Abiquiú provided a way station for travelers along the Old Spanish Trail in the 1800s. It is privately owned by the Archdiocese of Santa Fe.
Rio Chama River, Abiquiú, New Mexico
hikers walk beside a river with cottonwoods alongside the river
This section of the Rio Chama River, tributary of the Rio Grande, is located about six miles north of Abiquiú, New Mexico and flows through the Carson National Forest.
Sierra Blanca, San Luis Valley, Colorado
desert scrub in foreground, spiky mountains in background, clouds
Sierra Blanca is a prominent mountain in the Sangre de Cristo Range along San Luis Valley on Highway 17. Locating landmarks were essential to traveling the Old Spanish Trail.
San Rafael Swell, Utah
desert scenery, dead tree, blue sky with puffy coulds
The San Rafael Swell is a huge craggy geologic feature (an anticline), about 75 miles by 40 miles, located in south-central Utah approximately 30 miles west of Green River.
Virgin River Canyon, Arizona
a river carves through the landscape, greenery in the foreground, mountains and redrock backdrop
This section of the Virgin River Canyon Recreation Area is off Interstate 15 about 20 miles southwest of St. George, Utah and about 20 miles northeast of Mesquite, Nevada
Old Spanish Trail segment, Nevada
rocky trail through desert with yucca, mountain in the background
This trail segment is 5.25 miles, and is part of the Old Spanish Trail/Mormon Road Historic District, outside Blue Diamond, Clark County, Nevada.
Mojave Road, California
trail through desert scrub with Joshua trees, mountains in the distance, puffy clouds
Old Spanish Trail travelers used this section of the historic Mojave Road is within Mojave National Preserve.
The Lands of the Overland Trails: Protests against the Mexican American War
Almost every movement in American history has a corresponding counter movement. The Mexican American War (1846-48), which resulted in Mexico ceding much of the modern-day American Southwest to the United States, is a good example. With the stroke of a pen, parts of the Santa Fe, California, Oregon, Pony Express, Mormon Pioneer, and Old Spanish trails, as well as El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, suddenly became American territory.
A dirt road snakes down a steep cliff face in the desert.
Project Ideas- Communication & National Historic Trails: Old Spanish Trail
Communication was an essential aspect of the Old Spanish Trail. Here are a few examples and questions to get you thinking about potential research projects.
A historic train depot building, in the desert
The Indian Grove within Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve
Located near a mountain pass and a perennial water source within the boundaries of Great Sand Dunes National Park and Preserve is a stand of approximately 200 ponderosa pine trees, of which 72 trees have been culturally modified —that is, altered by people. Known as the Indian Grove, the ponderosa pines with their tall, straight trunks and rusty orange bark composed of broad plates, were peeled and harvested by the Ute, Apache, and other indigenous people in the 19th century.
Two people stand next to a large pine tree.
Ute Raiding Along the Old Spanish Trail
The Old Spanish Trail wound through rugged desert terrain to connect present-day New Mexico and California. Even though Mexico technically controlled the trail corridor, much of it was dominated by American Indians—particularly the Utes. Although hailing mostly from Utah and Colorado, Utes used their superior horsemanship and geographic knowledge to raid as far west as the Pacific Ocean.
Series: National History Day
National Historic Trails are full of topics waiting to be researched! From the Pony Express to the forced removal of American Indian tribes from their homelands, National Historic Trails tell stories of communication, movement, conflict, perseverance, and change.
A covered wagon sits in front of a large sandstone bluff.
New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada, California: Old Spanish National Historic Trail
Today, the National Park Service and Bureau of Land Management jointly manage the trail. The hazardous mule trade route stands as a testament to the epic story of the West, the struggles early frontiers-people faced in the transport of goods, and the critical ties between the international economics and cultures of North America’s opposite coasts in the mid-1800s.
Old Spanish Trail map
Become a Junior Ranger for National Historic Trails
Learn about the National Historic Trails and earn junior ranger badges! These activities can be completed virtually or after visiting a site along the National Historic Trails. Booklets can be submitted either electronically or by mail. Take a look and start exploring the trails today!
small photos of different trail sites with junior ranger badges.
Historic Valentine's Day Cards
Valentines day cards rose to popularity in the United States in the mid-1800s. Victorian cards were elaborate, decorative, often-lace trimmed, and mass-produced. Not everyone could afford such cards, so handmade cards were very popular with pioneers and others who couldn't buy an expensive card. You can take your Valentine back in time by making a historic card! Use the provided template, or make a handmade card, and return to the 1800s with your love.
A historic valentines day card with a rose illustration.
National Historic Trails: Historical Routes of National Significance
Wondering about National Historic Trails? Check out this infographic with basic information about the trails, their purpose, and where you can go for more information!
Infographic about National Historic Trails featuring a map. Full description available at link.
National Historic Trails Scrapbooks
Imagine if early travelers on the National Historic Trails had a polaroid camera... what would their scrapbooks look like? Though we have many journals describing their experiences, there are obviously very few or no photos at all from these journeys. Cameras didn't exist! Well, we took a crack at it and created scrapbook pages for them! Take a look at what we imagine a trail traveler's scrapbook would like!
A scrapbook page depicting multiple scenes from the trail, and relevant icon images.
National Historic Trails Fashion Inspiration
During NPS Fashion Week, we are exploring some ways fashion inspiration may be found on National Historic Trails (NHTs). On NHTs you’ll find intriguing colors, shapes, textures, histories, and stories. From golden sunsets to feathered hats, NHTs have diverse natural and cultural environments that can inspire the fashionista in us all!
A red rock cliff with a path winding through it
The Mojave Road & The Old Spanish Trail
The Mojave Road is a well preserved mid-nineteenth century linear transportation corridor linking a series of historically significant springs across a vast expanse of desert basins and ranges. It passes through Mojave National Preserve and is a branch of the Old Spanish National Historic Trail. Learn more about the history of this site, listed on the National Register of Historic Places.
New Mexico Fiber Arts Traditions
Northern New Mexico has a rich history of fiber arts that is preserved by weavers and other artisans who continue to practice the generations-old traditions.
Luminaria Traditions
Farolitos are practically synonymous with a New Mexican Christmas. Luminaria traditions have spread over the centuries to many of the former Spanish territories.
Conservation Diaries: Ramona Malczynski, Partnership Outreach Intern
Ramona Malczynski spent the summer traveling through Northern and Central New Mexico and meeting with many people during her time with the Latino Heritage Internship Program. During summer 2021, she worked as the Latino Historic Trails Partnership Outreach Intern at the National Trails Office of the National Park Service.
selfie of two women
Apolonia Vaca and Nestora Peña, the Old Spanish Trail
In September of 1841, Apolonia Vaca and Nestora Peña, the youngest daughters in their respective families, traveled the Old Spanish Trail from Abiquiú, New Mexico, to California. Juan Felipe Peña and his wife, Ysabel Gonzales, also brought their five sons along; Apolonia Vaca had the company of her father, Juan Manuel Vaca, and seven siblings.
Julián Chávez, the Old Spanish Trail
In 1834, Mexico decreed the secularization of the missions and made their considerable holdings available to individual citizens who promised to develop private ranchos. On 10 March 1836, Julián Antonio Chávez, an “españole [sic]” from Abiquiú, New Mexico, petitioned the ayuntamiento (governing council) of Los Angeles for a grant of “swampy lands” nearest to the pueblo, declaring that it was “entirely vacant."
Black and white drawing of agricultural fields set in front of hills.
Michael White (Miguel Blanco), the Old Spanish Trail
Barely a teenager when he left England as an apprentice on a whaling vessel, White arrived in Baja California in 1817. White arrived in Santa Barbara in 1828, eventually making his way to Mission San Gabriel—which at that time consisted of little more than a few houses around the plaza, a church, some gardens, and some irrigable land.
A small historic home with a slanted shingled roof.
Hipólito Espinosa, the Old Spanish Trail
Hipólito Espinosa was among the first colonists to arrive in Alta California from New Mexico via the Old Spanish Trail. Like many who emigrated from New Mexico over the Old Spanish Trail, Espinosa had some advance knowledge of California before moving his family there. Espinosa worked as a driver for numerous trade caravans that traveled annually on the Old Spanish Trail.
A small, modest, adobe church in an open setting.
Jean Baptiste Chalifoux, the Old Spanish Trail
Jean Baptiste Chalifoux began his professional career as a fur trapper, first in French Canada and then in western North America. By the late 1820s, he had parlayed his knowledge of the landscape into a career as a mercenary and horse thief, traveling the trails between New Mexico and southern California.
A animal hide hangs in a museum exhibit.
Santa Fe Exhibits Audio Description
Interested in the three national historic trails in Santa Fe? Take a look at these interpretive exhibits and listen to their audio descriptions.
Wayside interpretive exhibit, full audio description is available.
BLM Price Exhibits Audio Description
Interested in the Old Spanish Trail in the Bureau of Land Management Price Field Office? Take a look at these interpretive exhibits and listen to the audio descriptions.
An interpretive exhibit panel. Full audio description available.
BLM Moab Exhibits Audio Description
Interested in the Old Spanish Trail in the Bureau of Land Management Moab Field Office? Take a look at these interpretive exhibits and listen to the audio descriptions.
Wayside interpretive exhibit, full audio description is available.
Old Spanish Trail Timeline
Interested in learning more about the Old Spanish Trail? Check out this trail timeline.
Old Spanish Trail Junior Ranger
Interested in becoming an Old Spanish Trail junior ranger? Use this information to complete the program and earn your badge!
Old Spanish Trail at Aztec Ruins Waysides
Audio descriptions and transcripts for two waysides at the Old Spanish Trail Retracement at Aztec Ruins National Monument
National Trails Coloring Pages
Stretching for 28,000 miles over 26 states, the national historic trails are home to many different animals. Learn more about the trails and the animals that people encountered with these great coloring pages. This is fun for all ages, just download, print, and color!
Coloring page with outline of a deer fawn.
Reflecting on 55 years of the National Trails System Act: A Journey Through the Establishment of National Scenic and Historic Trails
In celebration of the 55th anniversary of the National Trails System Act, learn more about these significant trails and their history.
Old Spanish Trail: Colorado Western Slope Itinerary
Planning a trip to the western slope? As you drive on Highway 50 between Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park and Grand Junction, Colorado, you will be traveling near the Old Spanish Trail. The modern highway was constructed over or near the national historic trail, giving you a unique opportunity to take a view back in time! Explore sites in this itinerary to step out onto the trail.
Old Spanish Trail: Los Angeles Itinerary
The City of Angels is rich with Old Spanish Trail History. In an era when Santa Fe's population dwarfed that of Los Angeles, Mission San Gabriel was one of the most important population centers along the Old Spanish Trail. Antonio Armijo visited the mission in 1829, during his first trip between Abiquiú and Los Angeles. His journey connected two of the most important cities on Mexico's northern frontier. Use this itinerary to explore three distinct historic sites.
El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, Old Spanish Trail, Santa Fe Trail: Santa Fe, New Mexico Itinerary
Santa Fe is the oldest capital city in the US, founded in 1610, and the highest in elevation at 7,000 ft. The city is the historic hub of the southwest, connecting three national historic trails: El Camino Real de Tierra Adentro, the Santa Fe Trail, and the Old Spanish Trail. This tour leads your from the busy plaza and other major tourist locations to lesser known sites along quiet, old Santa Fe streets.
Agate Fossil Beds
Old Spanish National Historic Trail
Fort Laramie
City of Rocks
Fossil Butte
Scotts Bluff
Chimne
Golden Spike
!
Salt Lake City
Timpanogos Cave
Dinosaur
Rocky Mountain
!Denver
Utah
Nevada
Colorado
Colorado
Great Basin
Florissant Fossil Beds
Black Canyon of the Gunnison
Arches
Capitol Reef
Curecanti
Canyonlands
Yosemite
Cedar Breaks
Devils Postpile
Bryce Canyon
Zion
Great Sand Dunes
Natural Bridges
Glen Canyon
Hovenweep
Mesa Verde
Rainbow Bridge
Kings Canyon
Aztec Ruins
Navajo
Pipe Spring
Capulin Volcano
Manzanar
Sequoia
Death Valley
Las Vegas
Canyon de Chelly
!
Grand Canyon
Chaco Culture
Lake Mead
Hubbell Trading Post
California
Bandelier
Wupatki
!Santa
Fe
Fort Union
Pecos
Sunset Crater Volcano
Walnut Canyon
Mojave
Petrified Forest
Tuzigoot
El Morro
Petroglyph
El Malpais
Montezuma Castle
Santa Monica Mountains
Los Angeles
Salinas Pueblo Missions
Arizona
!
Channel Islands
New Mexico
Joshua Tree
Tonto
Phoenix !
Gila Cliff Dwellings
Hohokam Pima
Ê
Casa Grande Ruins
Cabrillo
0
25 50
100
Miles
Legend
White Sands
Old Spanish National Historic Trail
Saguaro
Fort Bowie
During the winter of 1829-1830, Antonio Armijo led
a caravan of 60 men and 100 pack mules from New
Mexico to Mission San Gabriel in California, east of
Los Angeles. The caravan carried woolen rugs and
blankets produced in New Mexico to trade for horses
and mules.
Other trade parties soon followed. Some found
alternative routes that together became known as
the Old Spanish Trail. It took Armijo’s group about 12
weeks to reach California and six weeks to return on
the trail historians LeRoy and Ann Hafen called, “the
longest, crookedest, most arduous pack mule route in
the history of America.”
The lands crossed by the Old Spanish Trail were
alluring. For decades missionaries, fur trappers,
American Indians, and others ventured repeatedly
into and across the vast territory between New
Mexico and California.
By the time Armijo started his trip, New Mexican
traders were familiar with the routes others had
followed and utilized the cumulative geographic
knowledge gained from previous expeditions.
The trips were arduous. Dramatically changing terrain
and climate posed major challenges. Caravans lost
their way, suffered from thirst, and were forced to
eat some of their pack mules when supplies ran out.
Animals also suffered in the harsh desert environment
and endured severe weather.
View of Santa Fe in 1846 by John W. Abert
Commerce along the Old Spanish Trail began
as a legitimate barter for horses and mules, but
some traders and adventurers found it easier to
steal livestock than to obtain it legally. Americans
claiming to be beaver trappers, fugitive Indians
from the missions, gentile Indians from the frontier,
and renegade New Mexicans teamed together to
gather horses and mules to take illegally back to
New Mexico. In reaction to these widespread raids,
California authorities tried to recapture the stock and
punish the thieves but were never able to control the
illicit trade.
The line of march of this strange cavalcade occupied
an extent of more than a mile...Near this motley
crowd we sojourned for one night...Their pack-saddles
and bales had been taken off and carefully piled, so
as not only to protect them from damp, but to form
a sort of barricade or fort for their owner. From
one side to the other of these little corrals of goods
a Mexican blanket was stretched, under which the
trader lay smoking his cigarrito…
Along the Old Spanish Trail sound animals, good packing
equipment, and a capable crew were the prerequisites of a
successful pack train. The success of the trip depended on
the skills and abilities of those who packed and drove the
animals that carried the merchandise.
New Mexicans had a well-deserved reputation as excellent
horsemen and muleteers. American eyewitnesses marveled
at the dexterity and skill with which they harnessed and
adjusted packs of merchandise. Experienced travelers
suggested that New Mexicans should always be used as
teamsters for they “can catch up and roll up in half the time
the average person does.”
Packers were always in demand and utilized a variety
of skills. They secured loads with intricate knots, splices
and hitches; they acted as veterinarians and blacksmiths.
They estimated the safe carrying capacity of a mule, and
identified and treated animals suffering from improperly
balanced loads. They timed the travel day to stop at a
meadow or creek bottom that provided good forage.
Packers also had to be able to lift heavy loads, be good
farriers, and “accomplish marvels with the axe and screw
key and a young sapling for a lever.”
Beasts of Burden
Mules had incredible strength and endurance,
fared better than horses where water was
scarce and forage poor, and recovered more
rapidly after periods of hardship. Their hard and
small hoofs withstood the shock and abrasion
of rocky, boulder-strewn terrain.
Red Pass, California
Detail, San Gabriel Mission, 1832, by Ferdinand Deppe
Courtesy Sánta Barbara Mission Archive - Library
Courtesy Palace of the Governors Photo Archives (NMHM/DCA), 155329
Witness
Courtesy Laws Railroad Museum
Ben Wittick, Palace of the Governors
Photo Archives (NMHM/DCA), 015870
By this time Santa Fe is witnessing increased
economic activity brought on by successful
American and Mexican trade. Large quantities of
manufactured products arrive in New Mexico from
the eastern United States along the Santa Fe Trail.
Many goods are also traveling along El Camino
Real de Tierra Adentro to and from the interior
of Mexico.
In 1829, La Villa Real de Santa Fe de San Francisco
de Asis, provincial capital of New Mexico, was just a
dusty frontier town that sheltered a mix of Spanish
colonial families, newer Mexican arrivals, displaced
Indians, and a small, but growing number of
Americans. Over 1,000 miles to the west, the Pueblo
de la Reina de los Angeles was an even smaller ranch
town. Consisting of little more than a church and
plaza, and a few homes and government buildings,
it was the largest Mexican community in an area
characterized by dispersed ranche
Old Spanish Trail
Old Spanish National Historic Trail / New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado,
Utah, Nevada, California
Official Map &
Guide - Large Print
National Park Service
Bureau of Land Management
Department of the Interior
Official Map and Guide
Formatted for ADA standards at 11” x 17” print size.
hats, shawls, and quilts.
. . . the longest,
crookedest, most arduous
By this time Santa Fe
pack mule route in the
is witnessing increased
history of America. . .
economic activity
brought on by successful
It is 1829, eight years
American and Mexican
after Mexico gained
trade. Large quantities of
independence from
manufactured products
Spain. New Mexican
arrive in New Mexico
traders travel overland
from the eastern United
to establish new
States along the Santa
commercial relations
with frontier settlements Fe Trail. Many goods are
also traveling along El
in California. They
Camino Real de Tierra
carry locally produced
merchandise to exchange Adentro to and from the
interior of Mexico.
for mules and horses.
Items include serapes,
Connecting Two
blankets, ponchos, and
Mexican Provinces
socks; a variety of hides
In 1829, La Villa Real de Santa Fe de San
– gamuzas (chamois),
Francisco de Asis, provincial capital of
buffalo robes, bear and
New Mexico, was just a dusty frontier town
that sheltered a mix of Spanish colonial
beaver skins; as well as
families, newer Mexican arrivals, displaced
Rev. 02/06/13
Indians, and a small, but growing number
of Americans. Over 1,000 miles to the west,
the Pueblo de la Reina de los Angeles was
an even smaller ranch town. Consisting of
little more than a church and plaza, and a
few homes and government buildings, it
was the largest Mexican community in an
area characterized by dispersed ranches,
decaying Spanish missions, and Indian
villages.
During the winter of 1829-1830, Antonio
Armijo led a caravan of 60 men and 100
pack mules from New Mexico to Mission
San Gabriel in California, east of Los
Angeles. The caravan carried woolen rugs
and blankets produced in New Mexico to
trade for horses and mules.
Other trade parties soon followed. Some
found alternative routes that together
became known as the Old Spanish Trail.
It took Armijo’s group about 12 weeks to
reach California and six weeks to return on
the trail historians LeRoy and Ann Hafen
called, “the longest, crookedest, most
arduous pack mule route in the history of
America.”
Mules and Men
The lands crossed by the Old Spanish Trail
were alluring. For decades missionaries, fur
trappers,
American Indians, and others ventured
repeatedly into and across the vast territory
between New Mexico and California.
By the time Armijo started his trip, New
Mexican traders were familiar with the
routes others had followed and utilized the
cumulative geographic knowledge gained
from previous expeditions.
The trips were arduous. Dramatically
changing terrain and climate posed major
challenges. Caravans lost their way, suffered
from thirst, and were forced to eat some of
their pack mules when supplies ran out.
Animals also suffered in the harsh desert
environment and endured severe weather.
Commerce along the Old Spanish Trail
began as a legitimate barter for horses and
mules, but some traders and adventurers
found it easier to steal livestock than to
obtain it legally. Americans claiming to be
beaver trappers, fugitive Indians from the
missions, gentile Indians from the frontier,
and renegade New Mexicans teamed
together to gather horses and mules to take
illegally back to New Mexico. In reaction
to these widespread raids, California
authorities tried to recapture the stock and
punish the thieves but were never able to
control the illicit trade.
The line of march of this strange cavalcade
occupied an extent of more than a mile...
Near this motley crowd we sojourned for one
night...Their pack-saddles and bales had been
taken off and carefully piled, so as not only to
protect them from damp, but to form a sort of
barricade or fort for their owner. From one
side to the other of these little corrals of goods
a Mexican blanket was stretched, under
which the trader lay smoking his cigarrito…
—Lieutenant George Brewerton, 1848
Packing the Train
Along the Old Spanish Trail sound animals,
good packing equipment, and a capable
crew were the prerequisites of a successful
pack train. The success of the trip depended
on the skills and abilities of those who
packed and drove the animals that carried
the merchandise.
New Mexicans had a well-deserved
reputation as excellent horsemen and
muleteers. American eyewitnesses
marveled at the dexterity and skill with
which they harnessed and adjusted packs
of merchandise. Experienced travelers
suggested that New Mexicans should always
be used as teamsters for they “can catch
up and roll up in half the time the average
person does.”
Packers were always in demand and utilized
a variety of skills. They secured loads with
intricate knots, splices and hitches; they
acted as veterinarians and blacksmiths.
They estima
U.S. Department of the Interior
Bureau of Land Management
Old Spanish National Historic Trail
Your Recreation Destination - Barstow Field Office
Overview
In December 2022, the Old Spanish Trail was designated a National
Historic Trail by Congress. The Trail is jointly managed by the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) and the National Park Service
(NPS), working in partnership with other federal, state, and local government agencies, and private landowners who manage or own lands
along the trail route. The Old Spanish National Historic Trail extends
2,700 miles across New Mexico, Colorado, Utah, Arizona, Nevada,
and California to link Santa Fe and Los Angeles.
History
Antonio Mariano Armijo (1804 - 1850), a Spanish explorer and merchant, led an expedition of 60 men and a pack string of 100 mules and
established the first trade route from Abiquiu, New Mexico to California in 1829 -1830. Armijo and his men traded tanned hides, blankets
and other wool products for horses and mules, which were sold in
New Mexico.
His route, the southernmost and most direct, is known as the Armijo
Route of the Old Spanish Trail. Armijo’s route joined the Mojave
River at its mouth near what is now Soda Lake and followed the River
to the foot of the mountains at Summit Valley, down Cajon Pass and
into Alta/Nueva (New) California. The second southern route extended from Las Vegas to Tecopa to Barstow to Victor Valley and down
Cajon Pass. About 128 miles of the Old Spanish National Historic
Trail crosses through the Barstow Field Office.
Know Before You Go
The Old Spanish National Historic Trail is not a clearly marked or
continuous hiking trail. It passes through communities and wild areas, different states, and land ownerships. Visitors need to carefully
plan their visit.
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
•
Pack adequate food, water, clothes, equipment, and a medical kit.
Check out weather forecasts for the region you plan to visit.
Research information regarding access/closures, and road hazards.
Tell someone where you are going and when you expect to return.
Internet/cellular service may not be available in remote areas.
Know weather extremes, poisonous reptiles, and other hazards.
Collecting historical/cultural artifacts is prohibited.
Gather area maps, brochures and emergency contact numbers.
Adhere to state-local off-highway vehicle regulations.
Mojave River
National Trails System (NTS) 50th Anniversary
America celebrated the 50th anniversary of the NTS Act on
October 2, 2018. The NTS includes 11 National Scenic Trails, 19 National Historic Trails, and more than 1,200 National Recreation Trails.
These trails provide outdoor recreation opportunities, promote resource preservation, public access, and encourage appreciation of
America’s great outdoors history and cultural diversity.
For More Information
Contact the BLM Barstow Field Office
Old Spanish National Historic Trail
north of Barstow
National Trails System
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
National Historic Trails
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
The Mormon Pioneer Trail
Across Iowa in 1846
Leaving Nauvoo and “Crossing
the Mississippi on the Ice,” by C. A.
Christensen
Reconstructed Latter-day Saints Temple at Nauvoo,
Illinois.
NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAILS
AUTO TOUR ROUTE INTERPRETIVE
GUIDE
The Mormon Pioneer Trail Across Iowa in 1846
Prepared by
National Park Service
National Trails Intermountain Region
324 South State Street, Suite 200
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111
Telephone: 801-741-1012
www.nps.gov/cali
www.nps.gov/oreg
www.nps.gov/poex
www.nps.gov/mopi
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
April 2007
Second Printing September 2010
contents
Introduction. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
A New Faith . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3
Clash of Cultures . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4
Exodus From Nauvoo. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Winter Retreat Across Iowa. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 10
Places to Pause, To Rest…To Die. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 11
A Far Reaching Impact. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 14
Sites and Points of Interest
Nauvoo, Illinois to Council Bluffs, Iowa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 16
For More Information . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Credits. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
Regional Map. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside Back Cover
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Iowa - Nebraska
Introduction
T
he Mormon Pioneer
National
Historic Trail
follows the route
Auto Tour
established by
Brigham Young
Route
to bring his
followers from Nauvoo, Illinois,
to the Valley of the Great Salt
Lake, where The Church of
Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints
has been based for more than
160 years. That first migration
of Latter-day Saints to the Great
Basin occurred in two stages: in
1846, from western Illinois to
the Missouri River in the area
of today’s Council Bluffs, Iowa;
and in 1847, from the Missouri
River to Salt Lake City. This Auto
Tour Route interpretive
guide covers the
1846 segment of
Mormon Trail from
Illinois through
Iowa. Because
they have not been
designated by Congress
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Iowa - Nebraska
as part of the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail, routes and
sites used by later Mormon wagon trains and handcart companies are
not included in this guide.
Individual Auto Tour Route interpretive guides such as this one are
in preparation for each state through which the trail passes. As you
follow the guide, watch for Auto Tour Route highway logos marking
the general route of the Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail.
In addition, a National Park Service brochure with a map of the
entire Mormon Pioneer National Historic Trail is available at many
trail-related venues, and also can be requested from the trail’s
administrative office at 324 South State Street, Suite 200, Salt Lake
City, Utah.
Historic Nauvoo, pioneer wagon ruts, emigrant camps, and other
places of interest along or near the trail corridor are listed within this
guide. Driving directions are also provided. Entrance and parking fees
may be charged at some locations; hours may vary at the discretion
of the managers —you may want to call ahead. Large groups are
encouraged to make prior arrangements for tours, where available.
2
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Iowa - Nebraska
A New Faith
M
ormons, as Latter-day Saints are popularly called, practice a
unique religion that arose in 1830 from the teachings of church
founder Joseph Smith, Jr. Early converts to the new faith followed
their prophet from New York to Ohio, Missouri, and Illinois through
the 1830s and ’40s. They were driven from each state by threats and
violence.
The reasons for the Latter-day Saints’ early troubles still are debated,
but religious, political, economic, and social practices all were at
issue. Because Mormon beliefs about God and family differed in
important ways from mainstream Christianity, they drew criticism
and scorn. Because the Latter-day Saints created their own separate
towns, religion-based governments, and security forces, their
neighbors became uneasy and fearful. Resentment grew as the
church became involved in local, state, and eventually, national
politics. Disagreements led to legal battles and, in cases, violence
National Trails System Office
Intermountain Region
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
National Historic Trails
Interpretive Auto Tour
Western Missouri Through Northeastern Kansas
“Westport Landing”
— by William Henry Jackson
Courtesy—William Henry Jackson Collection at Scotts Bluff National
Monument .
R
Driving directions to the sites are provided from major
highways and nearby towns. To follow overland trail routes
between sites, follow the Auto Tour Route highway signs.
Generally, local brochures and guides are also available.
Entrance and parking fees may be charged at some locations,
and hours may vary at the discretion of site administrators.
Large groups are encouraged to make prior arrangements for
tours, where tours are available. Please respect private property
by staying in public areas, and help protect our national
heritage by leaving trail resources undisturbed.
National Trails System Office
324 South State Street, Suite 200
P.O. Box 45155
Salt Lake City, UT 84145-0155
Auto Tour
Route
oadside Auto Tour Route
signs mark the general
routes of the Oregon,
California, and Pony Express
national historic trails through
western Missouri and northeast
Kansas. Actual wagon wheel
ruts, emigrant camps, Pony
Express stations, and other
places of interest can be visited
at the sites listed in this guide.
Interpretive Auto Tour
Western Missouri - Northeast Kansas
ACROSS THE WIDE
MISSOURI
ON THEIR OWN
T
N
he story of the American West is not simply a tale of pioneer
courage and vision—of prairie schooners swaying
westward to the strains of heroic music. Rather, it is a complex
weave of plots and subplots, of romance and religion, of politics
and money, and of personal and national tragedy.
Traces of the people, livestock, and wooden wheels that were
part of those stories can still be found on the landscape. There
are traces, too, of native peoples whose lives were changed by
emigration. This guide will provide descriptions of the historic
places where wagon wheels cut into soft stream banks and over
rolling prairie, where lonely trailside graves lie, where missionary
outposts were established for Native Americans, and where Pony
Express stations were, and more.
Pioneers gathered to prepare for their journey at Independence
and St. Joseph, Missouri. From there, they would embark
across the wide and muddy Missouri River into a strange,
windswept land of unfamiliar wonders—and dangers.
ot fit for farming, too windswept and exposed to attract
homesteaders, the “Great American Desert” that
unrolled west of the Missouri River was seen as landscape to be
crossed on the way to a better place. That crossing, travelers of
the mid-19th century knew, was, by turn, exhausting and
exhilarating, and tedious and terrifying. Emigrants’ excitement
and anxiety mounted as they prepared to launch their ox-drawn
prairie schooners from St. Joseph and Independence, Missouri,
bustling river ports at the frontier’s edge. To them, the great, gray
ribbon of the Missouri was the western shore of civilized society.
Once their wagons rolled off the ferry onto the Kansas side,
emigrants embarked into unfamiliar country—trespassers on
Indian lands, and beyond the protection of the government. On
the trail, there were no markets, no hospitals, no laws, and no
second chances.
From there until they reached trail’s end some 2,000 miles later,
the pioneer emigrants were on their own.
Here we were, without law, without order,
and without restraint; in a state of nature,
amid the confused, revolving fragments of
elementary society! Some were sad, while
others were merry; and while the brave
doubted, the timid trembled!
—Lansford W. Hastings,
. . . . I, like every other pioneer, love to live
over again, in memory those romantic
months, and revisit, in fancy, the scenes of the
journey.
—Catherine Haun,
—California emigration of 1849
In the winter of 18 and 46 our neighbor got
hold of Fremont’s History of California and .
. . . brought the book to my husband to read,
& he was carried away with the idea [of
emigrating] too. I said O let us not go!
—Mary Jones,
—California emigration of 1846
Interpretive Auto Tour
Western Missouri - Northeast Kansas
DANGER, DEATH, AND DISAPPOINTMENT
M
ost emigrants lived in fear of Indian attack. Rumors
of—even hoaxes about—trailside massacres drifted
back to Eastern newspapers, and many travelers packed a virtual
arsenal to protect themselves on the road. For the most part,
though, their fears were unfounded. Historians conclude that
more Indian people than emigrants were killed in clashes along
the Oregon and California trails.
A more serious threat to those gathering at the congested
jumping-off places along the Missouri River was a mysterious
killer that could neither be seen nor fought: cholera. In the mid-19th
century, no one realized that this virulent and painful intestinal
infection was caused by bacteria. Spread unknowingly from
waterhole to waterhole by sick travel
National Trails System
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
National Historic Trails
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Nebraska and Northeastern Colorado
“Approaching Chimney
Rock”
By William Henry Jackson
Chimney Rock, in western Nebraska, was one of the most notable
landmarks recorded in emigrant diaries and journals. Photograph is
courtesy of The Wagner Perspective.
NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAILS
AUTO TOUR ROUTE INTERPRETIVE
GUIDE
Nebraska and Northeastern Colorado
Prepared by
National Park Service
National Trails System—Intermountain Region
324 South State Street, Suite 200
Box 30
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111
Telephone: 801-741-1012
www.nps.gov/cali
www.nps.gov/oreg
www.nps.gov/mopi
www.nps.gov/poex
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
August 2006
Contents
Introduction • • • • • • •
1
The Great Platte River Road • • • • • • •
From Path to Highway • • • • • • •
“A Whiz and a Hail” — The Pony Express • • • • •
A “Frayed Rope” • • • • • • •
The Platte Experience • • • • • • •
Natives and Newcomers: A Gathering Storm • • • • • • •
War on the Oregon & California Trails • • • • • • •
Corridor to Destiny • • • • • • •
2
4
8
11
15
18
21
24
SITES AND POINTS OF INTEREST • • • • • • •
Auto Tour Segment A:
Odell to Kearney • • • • • • •
Auto Tour Segment B:
Omaha-Central City-Kearney • • • • • •
Auto Tour Segment C:
Nebraska City-Central City-Kearney • • • • • • •
Auto Tour Segment D:
Kearney to Wyoming Border • • • • • • •
25
For More Information • • • • • • •
61
Regional Map • • • • • • •
26
35
41
43
inside the back cover
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Nebraska
Introduction
M
any of the pioneer trails and other
historic routes that are important in
our nation’s past have been designated by
Congress as National Historic Trails. While
Auto Tour
most of those old roads and routes are
Route
not open to motorized traffic, people can
drive along modern highways that lie close
to the original trails. Those modern roads
are designated as Auto Tour Routes, and they are marked with highway
signs and trail logos to help today’s travelers follow the trails used by the
pioneers who helped to open a new nation.
This interpretive publication guides visitors along the Auto Tour Routes
for the Oregon, California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony Express National
Historic Trails as they approach and parallel the Platte River across
Nebraska and cut across the northeastern corner of Colorado. Siteby-site driving directions are included, and an overview map is located
inside the back cover. To make the tour more meaningful, this guide also
provides an historical overview of the four trails, shares the thoughts and
experiences of emigrants who followed those routes, and describes how
the westward expansion impacted native peoples of the Great Plains.
Individual Auto Tour Route interpretive guides such as this one are in
preparation for each state through which the trails pass. In addition,
individual National Park Service interpretive brochures for the Oregon,
California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony Express National Historic Trails
are available at many trail-related venues, and can be requested from
the National Trails System Office at 324 South State, Suite 200, Box
30, Salt Lake City, Utah 84111. These brochures provide more detailed
information about each of the trails. Additional information on each trail
also can be found on individual trail web sites. Links are listed on the title
page of this guide.
1
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Nebraska
The Great Platte River Road
“Too thick to drink, too thin to plow, too pale to paint.” “A mile wide and
an inch deep.” “A stream flowing upside down.”
C
overed wagon pioneers of the 19th century liked to joke about
Nebraska’s Platte River, a stream unlike any they had known back
East. But the Platte, strange as it looked, was no joke. A summer shower
could send it raging over-bank and through camp; its soft quicksand
bottom could swallow up an ox team. River crossings were ordeals to
dread.
The river’s setting, too, seemed strange. Surrounding prairie, frequently
cleansed by wildfire, was burned bare of trees right up to the water’s
edge, and a line of low sand hills, looking like a storm-wracked beach,
rimmed much of the river valley.
Yet the yellow Platte, that treeless “Coast of Nebraska,” was an emigrant’s
lifeline—a water source that snaked 800 dusty miles between the
Missouri River and the uplands of central Wyoming.
Though a choked and sandy disappointment of a stream, the Platte
always was and still is a natural east-west corridor across the central
plains. Migrating game and moccasin-clad feet wore paths through the
“Fort Kearny & the South Platte River”
by William Henry Jackson.
2
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Nebraska
valley thousands of years before any white man ventured there. Like
those first travelers, covered wagon emigrants and their slow, plodding
oxen found water, grass, and fuel
National Trails System
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
National Historic Trails
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Along the Snake River Plain Through
Idaho
“Three Island Crossing” by William
Henry Jackson
“Great Falls” on the Snake River. Courtesy of Library of Congress.
NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAILS
AUTO TOUR ROUTE INTERPRETIVE
GUIDE
The Tangle of Trails Through Idaho
Prepared by
National Park Service
National Trails System—Intermountain Region
324 South State Street, Suite 200
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111
Telephone: 801-741-1012
www.nps.gov/cali
www.nps.gov/oreg
www.nps.gov/poex
www.nps.gov/mopi
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
October 2008
Contents
Introduction• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 1
THE DESERT WEST• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 2
THE SNAKE COUNTRY • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 4
FINDING THE WAY • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 7
WYOMING TO FORT HALL• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 11
THE RAFT RIVER PARTING OF THE WAYS• • • • • • • • • • 20
ON TO OREGON• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 22
‘O FOR MORE PATIENCE’: A SNAKE RIVER SOJOURN • • 29
‘DEATH OR THE DIGGINS’• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 32
‘OUTRAGES HAVE BEEN COMMITTED’• • • • • • • • • • • 35
YESTERDAY AND TODAY• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 41
SITES AND POINTS OF INTEREST• • • • • • • • • • • • •
42
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT A: WYOMING TO OREGON ON THE
SNAKE RIVER ROUTE OF THE OREGON TRAIL
• • • • 45
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT B: THE SOUTH ALTERNATE
OREGON TRAIL ROUTE, GLENNS FERRY TO OREGON
STATE LINE • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 78
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 82
Credits:
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 82
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Idaho
Introduction
M
any of the pioneer trails and other historic
routes that are important in our nation’s
past have been designated by Congress as National
Auto Tour Historic Trails. While most of the old roads and
routes still in existance are not open to motorized
Route
traffic, people can drive along modern highways
that closely parallel the original trails. Those
modern roads are designated as Auto Tour Routes, and they are
marked with highway signs and trail logos to help today’s travelers
follow the trails used by the pioneers who helped to open the
American West.
This interpretive publication guides visitors along the Auto Tour
Routes for the Oregon and California National Historic Trails
across Idaho. Site-by-site driving directions are included, and an
overview map is located inside the back cover. To make the tour
more meaningful, this guide also provides a historical overview of
the two trails, shares the thoughts and experiences of emigrants who
followed these routes, and discusses how the westward expansion
impacted native peoples of Idaho.
Individual Auto Tour Route interpretive guides such as this one are in
preparation for each state through which the trails pass. In addition,
individual National Park Service brochures for the Oregon and
California National Historic Trails are available at many trail-related
venues, and also can be requested from the National Trails System
administrative office at 324 South State Street, Suite 200, Salt Lake
City, Utah 84111. Each brochure includes a map of the entire trail
and an overview of trail history. Additional information about each
trail also can be found on individual trail web sites. Links are listed
on the “For More Information” page of this guide.
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Idaho
THE DESERT WEST
A
s covered-wagon emigrants crossed today’s Idaho, they found
the romance of the road wearing as thin as the soles of their trailtorn shoes.
The pioneers’ initial energy
and excitement curdled into
fatigue and crankiness after
three or more months on the
road. Nightly fireside dances
got left behind back down the
trail, next to Grandpa’s clock,
Mother’s good china, and
heaps of souring bacon. Highjinks and horse races grew
rare, quarrels more frequent.
Journal-keepers, when they
“Freighters Grub Pile,” by William
mustered the energy to write at all,
Henry Jackson. Courtesy of Library of
generally jotted terse complaints
Congress.
about fellow travelers, Indians, heat,
exhaustion, dust, mosquitoes, aches and pains, and the “stink” of the
never-ending sagebrush.
It seems the nearer we approach Oregon the worse roads we
have, and a worse more rough looking country.
—Amelia Hadley, 1851 Oregon emigration
Felt today like giving up in despair, the intolerable heat and dust,
together with fatigue makes me almost sick at heart.
—Esther Belle Hanna, 1852 California emigration
[Men] are by turns, or all together, cross, peevish, sullen,
boisterous, giddy, profane, dirty, vulgar, ragged, mustachioed,
bewhiskered, idle, petulant, quarrelsome, unfaithful, disobedient,
refractory, careless,
National Trails System
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
National Historic Trails
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Across Wyoming
“Rendezvous,” by
William Henry Jackson
NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAILS
AUTO TOUR ROUTE INTERPRETIVE
GUIDE
Across Wyoming
Prepared by
National Park Service
National Trails Intermountain Region
www.nps.gov/cali
www.nps.gov/oreg
www.nps.gov/mopi
www.nps.gov/poex
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
US DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
Third Printing December 2016
Historical marker on South Pass recognizing the first “white” women to make
the trek to Oregon in 1836.
CONTENTS
Introduction . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1
Gateway to the West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2
Blazing the Trail . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5
Approaching the Rockies. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7
Sweetwater to South Pass . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 13
Beyond the Great Divide . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 18
Leapfrogging Across Wyoming . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23
Ho for California! Oregon or Bust! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27
Fire on the Plains . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 30
God Speed to the Boy & the Pony! . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 34
The End of the Trail Era . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 36
Sites and Points of Interest. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .37
Auto Tour Segment A —Nebraska State Line to Casper . . . . . . .
Auto Tour Segment B —Casper to Seedskadee . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Auto Tour Segment C —The Lander Road. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .
Auto Tour Segment D —Seedskadee to Idaho State Line. . . . . . .
Auto Tour Segment E —Seedskadee to Utah State Line. . . . . . . .
38
50
68
70
71
For More Information/Credits . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 74
Regional Map. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Inside Back Cover
Eastern view of the Sweetwater River Valley from atop Independence Rock, by
William Henry Jackson. Image is courtesy of the Brigham Young University Online
Collection.
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Wyoming
INTRODUCTION
Auto Tour
Route
any of the pioneer trails and other
M
historic routes that are important in
our nation’s past have been designated by
Congress as national historic trails. While
most of those old roads and routes are not
open to motorized traffic, people can drive
along modern highways that lie close to
the original trails. Those modern roads are designated as Auto Tour
Routes, and are marked with highway signs and trail logos to help
today’s travelers follow the trails used by the pioneers who helped to
open a new nation.
This interpretive publication guides visitors along the Auto Tour
Routes for the Oregon, California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony
Express national historic trails as they as they cross the state of
Wyoming from east to west. Site-by-site driving directions are
included, and an overview map is located inside the back cover. To
make the tour more meaningful, this guide also provides a historical
overview of the four trails, shares the thoughts and experiences of
emigrants who followed those routes, and describes how westward
expansion impacted native peoples of the Intermountain West.
National Park Service interpretive brochures for the Oregon,
California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony Express national historic trails
are available at many trail-related venues, or can be requested via
email to ntir_information@nps.gov. Additional information on each
trail also can be found on individual trail websites. Links are listed on
the title page of this guide.
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Wyoming
GATEWAY TO THE WEST
History is geography set into motion.
—Johann Gottfried Herder, 18th century philosopher of history
T
he Rocky Mountains stretch like a jagged spine between Alaska
and Mexico, splitting North America into East and West. The
Continental Divide is not a simple line of peaks, easily threaded by
tracks and roads, but a complex of overlapping mountain ranges and
treeless sagebrush steppe, hundreds of miles wide. In the days of
covered wagon travel, the Rockies were an imposing barrier to the
movement of people, commerce, and communications.
Early explorers probed the Northern Rockies looking for the
fabled “Northwest Passage” that would open an easy route for
transcontinental traffic. The men of Lewis and Clark’s Cor
National Trails System
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
National Historic Trails
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Utah — Crossroads of the West
“Wagons Through Echo Canyon,”
by William Henry Jackson
Pony Express Bible photograph is courtesy of Joe
Nardone, — Pony Express History Association.
Every Pony Express rider working for Russell, Majors, and Waddell, was
issued a personal Bible to carry with them and obliged to pledge this oath:
“I, [name of rider] - do hereby swear before the great and living God that
during my engagement and while I am an employee of Russell, Majors, and
Waddell, I will under no circumstances use profane language, I will drink no
intoxicating liquors; that I will not quarrel or fight with any other employee
of the firm and that in every respect I will I conduct myself honestly,
faithful to my duties, and so direct my acts, as to win the confidence of my
employers, So help me God.”
NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAILS
AUTO TOUR ROUTE INTERPRETIVE
GUIDE
Utah — Crossroads of the West
Prepared by
National Park Service
National Trails—Intermountain Region
324 South State Street, Suite 200
Salt Lake City, Utah 84111
Telephone: 801-741-1012
www.nps.gov/cali
www.nps.gov/oreg
www.nps.gov/poex
www.nps.gov/mopi
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
September 2010
Contents
INTRODUCTION • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 1
A NOTE ON STATE BOUNDARIES • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 2
THE BIG EMPTY • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 3
SAGEBRUSH AND SALT FLATS • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 4
FIRST WAGONS INTO UTAH • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 7
‘A NIGHER ROUTE’: The Hastings Cutoff • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 11
‘THIS IS THE PLACE’: The Mormon Pioneers • • • • • • • • • • • • •18
A HALF-WAY HOUSE ON THE CALIFORNIA TRAIL • • • • • • • • • 28
THE UTAH WAR • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 34
‘THE FORLORNEST SPOT’: The Pony Express Trail in Utah • • • 36
THE WARPATH • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 43
CROSSROADS OF THE WEST• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 47
SITES AND POINTS OF INTEREST • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 49
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT A: Wyoming Border To Salt Lake
City, Utah — (Hastings Cutoff Of The California, Mormon
Pioneer, and Pony Express Trails) • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 49
OPTIONAL BACKCOUNTRY ROUTE: East Canyon/Little
Emigration Canyon • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 65
SALT LAKE CITY PIONEER TOUR • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 77
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT B: Salt Lake City To West Wendover,
NV • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 90
OPTIONAL BACKCOUNTRY ROUTE: Skull Valley and Hastings
Pass • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 95
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT C: Salt Lake City To City Of Rocks NR,
ID (Salt Lake Cutoff of the California Trail) • • • • • • • • • • 105
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT D: Pony Express Trail National Back
Country Byway • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 110
For More Information • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 122
Credits • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 122
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Utah
INTRODUCTION
M
any of the pioneer trails and other
historic routes that are important in
our nation’s past have been designated by
Congress as National Historic Trails. While
most of the trail ruts still in existence are not
open to motorized traffic, people can drive
along modern highways that either overlie
the original route or closely parallel it. Those
modern roads are designated as Auto Tour
Routes, and they are marked with highway
signs and trail logos to help today’s travelers
follow the routes used by the pioneers who
helped to open the American West.
This interpretive publication guides visitors along the Auto Tour
Routes for the California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony Express
National Historic Trails across Utah. Site-by-site driving directions
are included, and an overview map is located inside the back
cover. To make the tour more meaningful, this guide also provides
a historical overview of the three trails, shares the thoughts and
experiences of emigrants who followed these routes, and discusses
how the westward expansion impacted the native peoples of what is
now Utah.
Individual Auto Tour Route interpretive guides such as this one
are in preparation for each state through which the trails pass.
In addition, individual National Park Service brochures for the
California, Mormon Pioneer, and Pony Express National Historic
Trails are available at many trail-related venues, and also can be
requested from the National Trails System administrative office at
324 South State Street, Suite 200, Salt Lake City, Utah 84111. Each
brochure includes a map of the entire trail and a general overview
of
National Trails Intermountain Region
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
National Historic Trails
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Across Nevada
California National Historic Trail
Pony Express National Historic Trail
By the time they reached the Humboldt Sink, or Forty-mile Desert,
many emigrant pioneers had little food, exhausted livestock, and
broken wagons.
[Cover photo] Forty-mile Desert
NATIONAL HISTORIC TRAILS
AUTO TOUR ROUTE
INTERPRETIVE GUIDE
Across Nevada on the Humboldt Route and
The Central Route of the Pony Express
Prepared by
National Park Service
National Trails Intermountain Region
www.nps.gov/cali
www.nps.gov/oreg
www.nps.gov/poex
www.nps.gov/mopi
NATIONAL PARK SERVICE
U. S. DEPARTMENT OF THE INTERIOR
April 2012
Table of Contents
‘MOST CORDIALLY I HATE YOU’:
THE HUMBOLDT RIVER
••••••••••••••••••••
2
THE GREAT BASIN
••••••••••••••••••••
4
SEEKING MARY’S RIVER
••••••••••••••••••••
5
APPROACHING THE HUMBOLDT
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 11
PRELUDE TO MURDER
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 15
THE HUMBOLDT EXPERIENCE
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 18
WEST TO STONY POINT
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 21
THE POLITICS OF HUNGER
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 24
A FLASH OF THE BLADE
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 27
‘HEARTILY TIRED OF THE JOURNEY’
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 29
THE HUMBOLDT SINK
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 33
THE Forty-mile DESERT; or,
HOW TO KILL AN OX
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 35
INTO THE SIERRA NEVADA
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 42
THE PONY BOYS
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 44
CHANGE IN THE GREAT BASIN
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 51
Sites & Points of Interest:
Setting Out
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 53
Navigating the California Trail Across Nevada • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 54
Tips for Trailing Across Nevada
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 56
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT A:
WEST WENDOVER AND JACKPOT, NEVADA, TO CALIFORNIA
(California Trail)
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 58
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT B:
BLACK ROCK DESERT, RYE PATCH RESERVOIR TO GERLACH, NEVADA
(Applegate and Nobles Trails)
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 77
AUTO TOUR SEGMENT C:
WEST WENDOVER, NEVADA TO CALIFORNIA BORDER
(Pony Express Trail and Carson and Walker River-Sonora
Routes of the California Trail)
FOR MORE INFORMATION:
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 86
• • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • • 102
Introduction
M
any of the pioneer trails and other historic routes
that are important in our nation’s past have been
designated by Congress as national historic trails. While
most of those old wagon roads and routes are not open
to motorized traffic, visitors can drive along modern
highways that either retrace the original route or closely
parallel it. Those modern roads are designated as Auto Tour Routes.
They are marked with “National Historic Trails” highway signs to help
today’s travelers follow the routes used by the pioneers who helped to
open the American West.
This interpretive publication guides visitors along the Auto Tour
Routes for the California and Pony Express national historic trails as
they cross the state of Nevada from east to west. Site-by-site driving
directions are included, and an overview map is located inside
the back cover. To make the tour more meaningful, this guide also
provides a historical overview of the two trails, shares the thoughts
and experiences of emigrants who trekked to California, and
discusses how the westward expansion impacted native peoples of
what is now Nevada.
Individual Auto Tour Route interpretive guides such as this one are
in preparation for each state that the Oregon, California, Mormon
Pioneer, and Pony Express trails pass through. In addition, individual
National Park Service brochures for the four national historic trails
are available at many trail-related venues and can be requested from
the National Trails Intermountain Region Salt Lake City Branch
Office at ntsl_interpretation@nps.gov. Each brochure includes a
color map of the entire trail and provides an overview of information
about each of the trails. Additional information can also can be found
on individual trail websites. For links see page 102.
Auto Tour Route Interpretive Guide
Nevada
‘MOST CORDIALLY I HATE YOU’:
THE HUMBOLDT RIVER
T
he four great rivers that led covered wagon pioneers into the far
West each had a personality all its own.
There was the gritty prairie Platte, cantankerous but dependable;
the brooding, basalt-shrouded Snake, menacing as a stranger with a
hostile stare; and the broad-shouldered Columbia, the Big River of
the West, confident and athletic, striding purposefully toward the
Pacific Ocean.
But the Humboldt.
The Humboldt was sullen and spiteful, a mocking mean joker that
lured emigrants deep into the desert, swindle