"Dripstone Wall" by NPS Photo , public domain
Mammoth CaveNational Park - Kentucky |
Mammoth Cave National Park is in the U.S. state of Kentucky. It's home to the Mammoth Cave, a long cave system of chambers and subterranean passageways. Sites include the Frozen Niagara section, known for waterfall-like flowstone formations, and Gothic Avenue, its ceiling covered in 19th-century visitors’ signatures. Trails take in other park features like the Green and Nolin rivers and the sinkholes of Cedar Sink.
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maps
Official Visitor Map of Mammoth Cave National Park (NP) in Kentucky. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Detail of the Official Visitor Map of Mammoth Cave National Park (NP) in Kentucky. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Map of the U.S. National Park System. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Map of the U.S. National Park System with DOI's Unified Regions. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Map of the U.S. National Heritage Areas. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
brochures
Official Brochure of Mammoth Cave National Park (NP) in Kentucky. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Brochure of World Heritage Sites in the United States. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
https://www.nps.gov/maca
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mammoth_Cave_National_Park
Mammoth Cave National Park is in the U.S. state of Kentucky. It's home to the Mammoth Cave, a long cave system of chambers and subterranean passageways. Sites include the Frozen Niagara section, known for waterfall-like flowstone formations, and Gothic Avenue, its ceiling covered in 19th-century visitors’ signatures. Trails take in other park features like the Green and Nolin rivers and the sinkholes of Cedar Sink.
Rolling hills, deep river valleys, and the world's longest known cave system. Mammoth Cave National Park is home to thousands of years of human history and a rich diversity of plant and animal life, earning it the title of UNESCO World Heritage Site and International Biosphere Region.
DO NOT FOLLOW YOUR GPS! From the North: Take Interstate 65 to Exit 53 (Cave City Exit). Turn right onto KY-70. Follow 70/255 as it becomes the Mammoth Cave Parkway in the park. Follow the Mammoth Cave Parkway to the Visitor Center. From the South: Take Interstate 65 to Exit 48 (Park City Exit). Turn left onto KY-255 and follow 255 as it becomes the Park City Road into the park. Follow Park City Road until it joins the Mammoth Cave Parkway; turn left. Follow the Mammoth Cave Parkway to the Visitor Center.
Mammoth Cave Visitor Center
The park visitor center is the central point for visitors to orient themselves to what lies both above and below the surface at Mammoth Cave. Situated just up the hill from the cave's Historic Entrance, the visitor center is the departure point for all cave tours, and offers exhibits to prepare you for discovery. You can also meet a ranger for a talk or a hike. Gifts, restrooms, permits and information are available and visitor amenities are offered by the nearby Lodge at Mammoth Cave across the footbridge.
From the North: Take Interstate 65 to Exit 53 (Cave City Exit). Turn right onto KY-70. Follow 70/255 as it becomes the Mammoth Cave Parkway in the park. Follow the Mammoth Cave Parkway to the Visitor Center. From the South: Take Interstate 65 to Exit 48 (Park City Exit). Turn left onto KY-255 and follow 255 as it becomes the Park City Road into the park. Follow Park City Road until it joins the Mammoth Cave Parkway; turn left. Follow the Mammoth Cave Parkway to the Visitor Center.
Houchin Ferry Campground
The Houchin Ferry Campground lies next to the Green River at the former location of the Houchin Ferry. This campground is operated year-round and is located 15 miles from the Visitor Center and two miles east of Brownsville, KY. For campers who like it simple, these 12 tent-only campsites afford a quiet visit with drive-up access.
Houchin Ferry Campground - Primitive Site - Regular
20.00
Each site has a fire ring and picnic table. Each site is accessible by vehicle. Maximum number of campers is 8, maximum stay is 14 days in a calendar year.
Houchin Ferry Campground - Primitive Site - Access Card
10.00
Each site has a fire ring and picnic table. Each site is accessible by vehicle. Maximum number of campers is 8, maximum stay is 14 days in a calendar year.
Houchin Ferry Campground - Campsite
Campsites with picnic tables nearby the river.
At Houchin Ferry Campground, every site has a river view.
Houchin Ferry Campground - Simple Camping
A Houchin Ferry campsite with tent, fire ring, picnic table and lantern hook overlooks Green River.
Houchin Ferry Campground sites may be primitive sites - but they're welcoming.
Houchin Ferry Campground - Primitive Campsites
An unoccupied campsite with concrete picnic table, fire ring and lantern hook.
This campground's primitive sites feature a picnic table, fire ring, and lantern hook.
Houchin Ferry Campground - Picnic Shelter
An open-air picnic shelter with multiple picnic tables and a brick fireplace.
Houchin Ferry Campground also offers an open-air picnic shelter with a fireplace.
Houchin Ferry Campground - Toilet Facilities
A wooden enclosure containing portable toilet facilities.
Chemical toilets are provided at Houchin Ferry Campground.
Mammoth Cave Campground
The Mammoth Cave Campground is ideal for visitors seeking an authentic national park experience while still having easy access to amenities, cave tours, and other park activities. This developed campground is located within ¼ mile from the visitor center and contains 111 primitive campsites with a mixture of tent only sites, group sites, tent or RV sites, and accessible sites. Rangers on duty in the campground kiosk are happy to provide information to make your stay a special adventure. Loop D Closed
Mammoth Cave Campground - Single Site
25.00
Per-night, per-site fee for a single campsite in the Mammoth Cave Campground at the regular rate. Limit 8 persons per site. Campers may stay a maximum of 14 days in a calendar year. Check-in time is 1:00 pm, and check-out time is 11:00 am. No refunds.
Mammoth Cave Campground - Single Site - Senior Pass or Access Pass
12.50
Per-night, per-site fee for a single campsite in the Mammoth Cave Campground at the reduced rate for visitors with Golden Age/Golden Access Passports and America The Beautiful Senior/Access Passports. Limit 8 persons per site. Campers may stay a maximum of 14 days in a calendar year. Check-in time is 1:00 pm, and check-out time is 11:00 am. No refunds.
Mammoth Cave Campground - Group Site
40.00
Per-night, per-site fee for a single campsite in the Mammoth Cave Campground at the regular rate. No discount is offered on group camping. Limit 16 persons per site. Campers may stay a maximum of 14 days in a calendar year. Check-in time is 1:00 pm, and check-out time is 11:00 am. No refunds.
Mammoth Cave Campground - VIP Site Unavailable 2025
50.00
RV sites with full water, sewer and electric hookups. Limit eight persons per night per site. These sites are first come first serve and can not be reserved. Can not guarantee the availability of these sites.
Mammoth Cave Campground - VIP Site - Senior Pass or Access Pass
25.00
RV sites with full water, sewer and electric hookups. Limit eight persons per night per site. These sites are first come first serve and can not be reserved. Can not guarantee the availability of these sites.
Mammoth Cave Campground - Campsite
A white and blue tent and fire ring in a woodland setting
Mammoth Cave Campground has dozens of sites nestled in a woodland setting.
Mammoth Cave Campground - Campsite Amenities
Typical amenities of a campsite at Mammoth Cave Campground: a picnic table, a fire ring, and parking
A typical campsite with picnic table, fire ring, and parking.
Mammoth Cave Campground - RV Site
A campsite for RVs, showing paved turn-in, picnic table, and fire ring.
RV sites have full paved turn-ins.
Mammoth Cave Campground - Path
A pathway bordered by wooden rails imparts a rustic setting.
Easy paths wind between campground loops in a rustic setting.
Mammoth Cave Campground - Restrooms
A roofed wooden restroom facility shown from outside.
All restrooms in Mammoth Cave Campground are fully accessible.
Campground Kiosk
A small building with a sign that reads Backcountry Permits.
Check-in and check-out at the campground kiosk near the entrance to the campground.
Maple Springs Group Campground
Maple Springs Group Campground lies on the park's north side, six miles from the visitor center and three miles north of Green River Ferry. This campground offers more secluded sites ideal for larger groups of campers and their horse companions. All sites have electric and water hookups for RVs. This campground is a natural launching-point for forays along the more than 70 miles of backcountry trails in Mammoth Cave National Park.
Maple Springs Group Campground - Regular Group Site - Water/Electric Hookups
50.00
Regular Group Site - No Horses - One fire ring, one picnic table, maximum number per group: 16, maximum stay 14 days in a calendar year.
Maple Springs Group Campground - Equestrian Site - Water/Electric Hookups
50.00
Equestrian site with water and electric hookups - Horses permitted - One fire ring, one picnic table, maximum number per group: 16, maximum stay 14 days in a calendar year. Do not picket horses to live trees. Horse trailers must remain on pavement.
Maple Springs Group Campground - Campsite
A typical Maple Springs campsite with picnic tables, fire rings, water pump and tie-off for horses.
A typical Maple Springs campsite with picnic tables, fire rings, water pump and tie-off for horses.
Maple Springs Group Campground - Restrooms
Exterior view of the roofed wooden restroom facility, with pit toilets.
The restroom facilities at Maple Spring Group Camp feature pit toilets.
Maple Springs Group Campground - Campfire Circle
A large stone campfire circle is surrounded by a semicircle of benches in the woods.
A campfire circle offers a place for woodland stories at Maple Springs.
Waterfall at Historic Entrance
A cascade of water pours over a rock ledge. Green foliage is in the background.
The sound of falling water welcomes visitors into the natural entrance of Mammoth Cave.
Historic Entrance
A long staircase travels down a slope into the dark cave opening.
The Historic Entrance to Mammoth Cave has welcomed explorers for centuries.
Cleaveland Avenue
A long cave passage with an oval shape.
The network of cave passages in the Mammoth Cave system stretches over 400 miles.
Good Spring Baptist Church
A small white church building with yellow flowers in the foreground.
Three historic church structures still stand, shedding light on the pre-park communities that once existed here.
Heritage Trail
A wooden boardwalk leads into the forest.
The half-mile Heritage Trail leads to panoramic views of the Green River.
Green River Valley
A view of a river valley with hills covered in trees. A blue sky with white clouds stands above.
Rolling hills and valleys can be seen from many of the overlooks in the park.
Gothic Avenue
A large stacked stone pillar reaches the flat ceiling containing signatures in a cave passage.
Over two hundred years of guided tours leads to the history of Mammoth Cave.
2010 NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Recipients of the 2010 NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Geologic Maps in Action—Promote Education
<strong>Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky</strong></br> Example of the application of geologic map data to support educational programs.
cave formations
Park Air Profiles - Mammoth Cave National Park
Air quality profile for Mammoth Cave National Park. Gives park-specific information about air quality and air pollution impacts for Mammoth Cave NP as well as the studies and monitoring conducted for Mammoth Cave NP.
Inside Mammoth Cave
Morale, Welfare and Recreation in WWII National Parks
Wartime NPS Director Newton Drury wrote 'In wartime, the best function of these areas is to prove a place to which members of the armed forces and civilians may retire to restore shattered nerves and to recuperate physically and mentally for the war tasks still ahead of them.' During World War II, parks across the United States supported the morale of troops and sought to become places of healing for those returning from war.
B&W; soldiers post in front of large tree
Southeast National Parks Train 165 New Wildland Firefighters
Between December 2011 and March 2012, Southeast Region national parks trained 165 new wildland firefighters in S-130/190 courses at four separate units, including Mammoth Cave National Park, Kings Mountain National Military Park, Cumberland Island National Seashore, and Everglades National Park. Trainees came from federal and state agencies, local fire departments, universities, and other partners.
Cultural Landscapes by Bicycle
There are many ways to experience national parks by bicycle, with route options for all levels of experience and preference. Here are just three examples of ways to explore park cultural landscapes by bike in the southeastern part of the United States. Ride a loop road through an agricultural community in a fertile valley, follow the path of a former railroad that once brought tourists to Mammoth Cave, or travel mountain bike trails to a farmstead from the late 1800s.
Two people with bikes gaze over a valley filled with fog, with blue mountains in the background.
The 21st Century Fire Education Program
In 2009, Mammoth Cave National Park signed an agreement with Barren County Middle School, partnering with the school to offer three week-long summer camps in conjunction with the school's 21st Century Learning Center. The park's environmental education program developed camps that focus on water/hydrology, nature/cave exploration, and fire. The fire camp, which was dubbed “Hot Shots,” contributes to children’s learning and connection with nature.
2011 Freeman Tilden Award Recipients
Discover the innovative and exciting programs of the recipients of the national and regional 2011 Freeman Tilden Awards for excellence in interpretation.
LIza Stearns
2003 NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Recipients of the 2003 Environmental Achievement Awards
2005 NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Recipients of the 2005 NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Bat Projects in Parks: Mammoth Cave National Park
Conserving bats takes a variety of projects. Mammoth Cave National Park tried just that!
A wooden railed walkway down into Mammoth Cave National Park
Industry and Economy during the Civil War
Both North and South mobilized industry to an unprecedented degree. But the North, which already had a head start in nearly every realm of industrial and agricultural development, far outpaced the South during the war. Unhampered by the southern opposition in such areas as providing free land to farmers and subsidizing a transcontinental railroad before the war, Congress passed sweeping legislation to expand the economy. As the war dragged on, in part because many of the ba
Lithograph showing industrial and technological advancements of the Civil War
Bats in Caves
Bats and caves go together in people's minds. National Parks are home to many important bat caves. But, bats are particular. Many caves only contain a few bats. Some bats like certain caves for raising their young and other caves for winter hibernation. Other bats avoid caves entirely and sleep and raise their young in protected locations in trees and rocks outside.
a group of bats hanging on a cave ceiling
2019 NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Since 2002, the National Park Service (NPS) has awarded Environmental Achievement (EA) Awards to recognize staff and partners in the area of environmental preservation, protection and stewardship.
Tuberculosis in Mammoth Cave
Dr. John Croghan of Louisville, Kentucky recognized certain qualities of the air at Mammoth Cave. He believed the uniform temperature and humidity would be therapeutic for patients with tuberculosis, and in 1842 he invited 16 patients to take up residence in the cave. He developed an experimental hospital treatment facility within the cave, around the same time that tourism was expanding.
A group of people on and around a square, stone structure placed against the wall of a cave.
Creating Beautiful Spaces Through Landscape Architecture
Learn more about Landscape Architect Kate Randall and the type of work she does for NPS.
Kate standing in outdoor area of a building in Christiansted, St. Croix, U.S. Virgin Islands.
Shark Fossil—"Saivodus striatus"
Interactive 3D Model Collected from Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.
3d model of fossil on larger rock
Shark Fossil—"Glikmanius"
Interactive 3D Model Collected from Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky.
painting of a prehistoric shark
The Ghosts of Ancient Sharks at Mammoth Cave National Park
2019–2020 investigations at Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky, have revealed an unprecedented assemblage of Paleozoic (Late Mississippian) shark fossils preserved in the passages of the cave system. Not only teeth and spines are present, but there are examples of rare cartilaginous skeletal remains, and the fossils include previously unknown species.
a paleo artist's painting of an ancient shark dead on the seafloor
The International Year of Caves and Karst in 2021 and 2022
The International Year of Caves and Karst is coming in 2021 and our National Parks will be participating with events and activities for all to enjoy.
karst towers in china
Series: Geologic Time Periods in the Paleozoic Era
During the Paleozoic Era (541 to 252 million years ago), fish diversified and marine organisms were very abundant. In North America, the Paleozoic is characterized by multiple advances and retreats of shallow seas and repeated continental collisions that formed the Appalachian Mountains. Common Paleozoic fossils include trilobites and cephalopods such as squid, as well as insects and ferns. The greatest mass extinction in Earth's history ended this era.
fossil corals in a rock matrix
Series: Park Paleontology News - Vol. 12, No. 2, Fall 2020
All across the park system, scientists, rangers, and interpreters are engaged in the important work of studying, protecting, and sharing our rich fossil heritage. <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossils/newsletters.htm">Park Paleontology news</a> provides a close up look at the important work of caring for these irreplaceable resources. <ul><li>Contribute to Park Paleontology News by contacting the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/common/utilities/sendmail/sendemail.cfm?o=5D8CD5B898DDBB8387BA1DBBFD02A8AE4FBD489F4FF88B9049&r=/subjects/geoscientistsinparks/photo-galleries.htm">newsletter editor</a></li><li>Learn more about <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossils/">Fossils & Paleontology</a> </li><li>Celebrate <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossilday/">National Fossil Day</a> with events across the nation</li></ul>
fossils on the ground with two people and a mountain in the distance
Series: Mammoth Cave Collections—Paleontology
More than 40 different species of fossil sharks and relatives have been identified from Mammoth Cave specimens.
painting of a prehistoric shark
Series: NPS Environmental Achievement Awards
Since 2002, the National Park Service (NPS) has awarded Environmental Achievement (EA) Awards to recognize staff and partners in the area of environmental preservation, protection and stewardship.
A vehicle charges at an Electric Vehicle charging station at Thomas Edison National Historical Park
Series: Park Uses of Geologic Information
Geologic maps are critical to understanding a national park. Park staff use geologic maps for many purposes. These are just a few examples.
colorful section of a geologic map of bryce canyon
Series: Cave Week—Featured Articles
More than 20 parks across the US are participating in Cave Week via social media posts, cave tours, exhibits, school events, web pages and much more. The theme for Cave Week 2020 is, “Why do we go into caves?” This articles shares a few stories about why people (and bats) enter caves.
person standing by underground lake in a cave
Series: Park Air Profiles
Clean air matters for national parks around the country.
Photo of clouds above the Grand Canyon, AZ
From Dirt to Gunpowder
Before Mammoth Cave was a popular travel destination, or even a national park, the owners of the cave operated a lucrative mining operation within the underground passageways. However, it was not precious metals or gems that were being mined from Mammoth Cave, but rather a mineral that exists in the dirt of the cave that aided the United States during the War of 1812.
A diorama of what the saltpetre operation may have looked like.
NPS Geodiversity Atlas—Mammoth Cave National Park, Kentucky
Each park-specific page in the NPS Geodiversity Atlas provides basic information on the significant geologic features and processes occurring in the park. Links to products from Baseline Geologic and Soil Resources Inventories provide access to maps and reports.
large cavern
Mississippian Period—358.9 to 323.2 MYA
The extensive caves of Mammoth Cave and Wind Cave national parks developed in limestone deposited during the Mississippian. Warm, shallow seas covered much of North America, which was close to the equator.
fossil crinoid
Paleozoic Era
During the Paleozoic Era (541 to 252 million years ago), fish diversified and marine organisms were very abundant. In North America, the Paleozoic is characterized by multiple advances and retreats of shallow seas and repeated continental collisions that formed the Appalachian Mountains. Common Paleozoic fossils include trilobites and cephalopods such as squid, as well as insects and ferns. The greatest mass extinction in Earth's history ended this era.
fossil corals in a rock matrix
Cave Discoveries From the Past
Throughout the modern history of Mammoth Cave, discoveries of some of the earliest prehistoric indigenous people have been found throughout the cave.
a plant fiber woven slipper
The Kentucky Cave Wars
In the early twentieth century, an era of competition gripped the Mammoth Cave region. Rival cave owners battled in the courtroom, as well as along the roads, for the tourist dollars passing through Kentucky’s cave country en route to the future national park.
A black and white photo of a road side booth with two people.
Tragedy at Sand Cave
A story that captivated the world and changed the trajectory for Mammoth Cave National Park.
A black and white portrait of a man with a jacket and tie.
Exploring the World's Longest Known Cave
In 1972 a group of six cave explorers discovered the missing connection to make Mammoth Cave the worlds longest cave system.
A black and white photo of a group of six people in caving gear.
Blanket Cave National Youth Park—Activity
Enjoy a fun activity and learn about caves even when you can't get out to a park. In this activity you will build your own cave and learn how to make it like a "real" natural cave. Find out about cave formations and wildlife, and how to be safe and care for caves. New "Blanket Cave National Youth Parks" are springing up all across America! Join the fun!
cartoon drawing of a childs and a park ranger exploring a cave
Top Ten Tips for Visiting Mammoth Cave National Park
Discover the top ten insider tips for making your trip to Mammoth Cave National Park a great one!
A long staircase leading down into a cave opening.
The Great War Monuments
Two of the nation's oldest World War I monuments stand as silent sentinels in the entryway of Mammoth Cave subtly sharing the message of remembrance.
Two stone monuments dedicated to fallen soldiers of WWI. There are engravings on the front.
2021 IYCK Mammoth Cave Regional Art Contest Winners
Winner of the Mammoth Cave National Park's 2021 International Years of Cave and Karst art contest.
Freshwater Mussel Relocation Project: Endangered Species of Mammoth Cave
At Mammoth Cave National Park, ongoing conservation efforts are happening to save indicator species from one of the most biodiverse rivers in the country and to bring back several species from the brink of extinction.
A person holding a freshwater mussel.
Kentucky Cave Shrimp: Endangered Species of Mammoth Cave
Once presumed extinct, these tiny eyeless shrimp are found no where on Earth except the dark subterranean rivers in Mammoth Cave National Park.
A translucent cave shrimp
Bats: Endangered Species of Mammoth Cave
Threatened and endangered bat species that call Mammoth Cave National Park home and the conservation efforts to protect them.
A researcher holding a bat
Mammoth Cave Hotel Roof Replacement Project
The Mammoth Cave Hotel Roof Replacement Project is funded through the Great American Outdoors Act and will help address the park’s backlogged maintenance needs and correct other exterior and interior deficiencies of the park’s main hotel building.
An artist rendering of the new lobby of a hotel building.
Cookie Recipes Inspired by Mammoth Cave
Try out two Mammoth Cave inspired cookie recipes - snowball cookies, and gluten free “Oh, Ranger!” chocolate peppermint cookies!
Several chocolate cookies atop a book entitles "The Miles of Mammoth Cave".
Changing Patterns of Water Availability May Change Vegetation Composition in US National Parks
Across the US, changes in water availability are altering which plants grow where. These changes are evident at a broad scale. But not all areas experience the same climate in the same way, even within the boundaries of a single national park. A new dataset gives park managers a valuable tool for understanding why vegetation has changed and how it might change in the future under different climate-change scenarios.
Green, orange, and dead grey junipers in red soil, mountains in background
Ranger Roll Call, 1916-1929
Recent research demonstrates that there were more women rangers and ranger-naturalists in early National Park Service (NPS) history than previously thought. However, the number of women in uniformed positions was quite low in any given year.
Ranger Frieda Nelson shows of the suspenders used to hold up her uniform breeches.
Women in Fire Science: Alicia Schlarb
Alicia Schlarb is the lead fire effects monitor for a portion of the National Park Service's Southeast Region. She and her crew provide prescribed burning, monitoring, and wildland fire responses to national parks located within Mississippi, Louisiana, Alabama, and portions of Tennessee, Kentucky, and Florida. She loves fire and that she can change perceptions about wildland fire through science.
Alicia Schlarb.
Cave Trail Rehabilitation Project: New Entrance to Frozen Niagara
The project to Rehabilitate Cave Trails from New Entrance to Frozen Niagara is funded through the Great American Outdoors Act and is a significant investment that will address backlogged maintenance needs, visitor safety and tour experience, and natural and cultural resource protection in a popular section of a key park resource: Mammoth Cave.
A cave room people sitting on benches
Mammoth Cave Core Visitor Services Area Cultural Landscape
The natural features of Mammoth Cave National Park include the longest known cave system in the world, the surrounding river valleys, karst topography, and rolling, wooded hillsides. The cultural landscape is also a record of a 12,000-year conversation between people and land spanning the first explorations by prehistoric people, early mineral mining, pioneer homesteading, preparations for the War of 1812, and 200 years of tourism leading to development of the national park.
People walk on a paved path through a visitor area, with rustic stone structures, fence, and trees.
Series: Geologic Time—Major Divisions and NPS Fossils
The National Park System contains a magnificent record of geologic time because rocks from each period of the geologic time scale are preserved in park landscapes. The geologic time scale is divided into four large periods of time—the Cenozoic Era, Mesozoic Era, Paleozoic Era, and The Precambrian.
photo of desert landscape with a petrified wood log on the surface
Guide to the Thomas J. Allen Photograph Collection
Finding aid for the Thomas J. Allen Photographs in the NPS History Collection.
Series: National Fossil Day Logo and Artwork – Prehistoric Life Illustrated
Celebrate the wonderful diversity of fossils!
National Fossil Day Official Logo
Fossils of the 2023 National Fossil Day Artwork
One of the largest sharks to have swum the ancient Mississippian seas was <i>Saivodus striatus</i>, which is featured prominently in the 2023 National Fossil Day artwork.
an artist's rendering of a prehistoric shark
African Americans and the Great Outdoors
There is the prevailing misconception that African Americans do not participate in outdoor recreation; however, this misconception is far from reality. While racially exclusionary practices attempted to impose limits on African American participation in outdoor recreation, African Americans participated in opportunities offered by the larger society and also carved out spaces of their own.
African American Girl Scouts setting up tents for a day trip at Paradise Park
Girl Scouts Use Girl Scout Cookie Boxes to Create National Park Designs
Have you ever considered how Girl Scout cookie boxes could be used for something other than the cookies themselves? In March of this year, six teams from the Girl Scouts of Northeast Texas in grades 6-12 partnered with local architects and engineers in Dallas Texas to compete in a design contest that transformed Girl Scout cookie boxes into National Park-themed structures.
A view of a national park made from Girl Scout cookie boxes
Following Their Footsteps: An All Girls Summer Camp at Mammoth Cave
Mammoth Cave hosted Following Their Footsteps all girls camps for middle school students in June 2023.
A group of people wearing dark blue overalls, helmets, and headlamps stand in a small cave room.
Project Profile: Control Invasive Plants in Appalachia
The National Park Service will hire a biological technician and two interns to assist the Southeast Region Invasive Plant Management Team (SE IPMT) in coordinating Early Detection and Rapid Response (EDRR) efforts, provide training to parks, and work with parks to complete additional treatments to manage invasive plants.
a person with a weed sprayed backpack stands next to vegetation
Cultural Landscape Significance at Mammoth Cave Historic District
A recent Cultural Landscape Report (CLR) for the Mammoth Cave Historic District proposes expanding both the property boundary and areas of significance in the National Register listing. The CLR documents landscape features that contribute to this significance, playing a vital role in evaluation, interpretation, and preservation planning.
Mossy stones and a metal railing line a staircase leading to a dark cave opening in a wooded area.
23 in 2023: An Explore Nature Year in Review
As we reflect on 2023, we offer you a list of 23 interesting and exciting science and nature events from parks of the national park system. From a dazzling “ring of fire” annular eclipse to celebrating conservation wins with the help of funding from the Bipartisan Infrastructure Law and Inflation Reduction Act, 2023 was filled with amazing moments.
the ring of fire as seen during an annular eclipse
Journey to Mammoth Cave
For millennia, Mammoth Cave has sparked people’s curiosity. It has tempted them to leave behind a familiar sunlit world and explore its dark and mysterious passages. The first people who came to the area and discovered this natural wonder about 5,000 years ago did so on foot. Since then, people have traveled to the cave in many ways, but all continue to seek their own adventure when they get here.
A black and white photo of a large group of people wearing early twentieth century clothing.
Updated Species Database Will Help Boost Amphibian Conservation Across the National Park System
To steward amphibians effectively, managers need basic information about which species live in parks. But species lists need constant maintenance to remain accurate. Due to recent efforts, the National Park Service now has an up-to-date amphibian species checklist for almost 300 parks. This information can serve as the basis for innumerable conservation efforts across the nation.
A toad sits on red sand, looking into the camera.
2023 Excellence in Volunteerism Awards
The National Park Service congratulates the regional recipients of the 2023 Excellence in Volunteerism Awards. These nominees embody the values of service, engagement, and stewardship fundamental to our national parks.
The volunteer-in-parks logo
Project Profile: Restore Eastern Grasslands
The National Park Service will restore up to 4,000 acres of agricultural fields and degraded lands across 37 parks in 15 states. This landscape-scale restoration project will expand the range and connectivity of native grasslands across the eastern US, restore biodiversity and critical ecosystem functions, reduce pesticide use, benefit people and wildlife, and create employment opportunities for diverse early career youth.
A park manager and others standing amidst a grassy landscape.
Guide to the National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA) Southeast Region Collection
This finding aid describes the National Parks Conservation Association (NPCA) Southest Region Collection, part of the NPS History Collection.
History of the Frozen Niagara Cave Tour Route
The Frozen Niagara cave tour route has wowed visitors to Mammoth Cave with its extraordinary geological formations for over a century. Discover the story of its development from a natural cave passage with a rocky, uneven ground into a cave trail used by thousands of visitors each year.
Water pours into a cave passageway from the ceiling.
Dragonfly mercury studies uncover unexpected atmospheric delivery pathways
Read the abstract and get the link to a published paper on how dragonfly mercury studies uncover unexpected atmospheric delivery pathways: Janssen, S.E., C.J. Kotalik, J.J. Willacker, M.T. Tate, C. Flanagan Pritz, S.J. Nelson, D.P. Krabbenhoft, D. Walters, and C. Eagles-Smith. 2024. Geographic Drivers of Mercury Entry into Aquatic Foods Webs Revealed by Mercury Stable Isotopes in Dragonfly Larvae. Environmental Science & Technology. DOI: 10.1021/acs.est.4c02436
close up of dragonfly larvae on white spoon
Project Profile: A Strategic Approach to Building Forest Resiliency in Southeast Parks
The National Park Service is addressing the climate change vulnerability of southeast park ecosystems.
Fall-colored trees on a mountain slope. A tree is in the right-side foreground.
Family Cabins Project
Mammoth Cave National Park will soon offer additional lodging options. The Family Cabin Construction Project will add several new cabins which will each accommodate up to ten people. These accommodations will improve the park experience for overnight guests.
A rendered image of a large wooden building.
Hidden in Plain Sight: Old Growth Remnant Grasslands
During 2024 scouting for a large eastern grassland restoration project funded by IRA and BIL, several old growth remnant grasslands were identified in National Capital and Northeast Region parks that were previously unknown. These remnants preserve the genetic integrity of the original grassland flora of the eastern US and are true unexpected treasures that in some cases, were hidden in plain sight.
a grassland landscape with distant trees
Heritage Trail Rehabilitation Project
The rehabilitation of the Heritage Trail will not only improve the visual impact of the trail but will also reduce the park's annual maintenance requirements.
A wooden deck extends out into a bright green wooded area.
“Cracking the code” on mercury bioaccumulation
Read the abstract and get the link to a published paper on a model to predict mercury risk park waterbodies: Kotalik, C.J. et al. 2025. Ecosystem drivers of freshwater mercury bioaccumulation are context-dependent: insights from continental-scale modeling. Environmental Science & Technology. DOI: 10.1021/acs.est.4c07280
A person stands in a field looking at a bug through a magnifying lens.
Series: Overview of Cultural Landscape and National Register Documentation
The National Register of Historic Places and cultural landscape documentation each provide a set of tools and frameworks for evaluating significance and integrity in NPS cultural landscapes. They consider research, data, and context, all with the understanding that these can change over time. These examples demonstrate relationships between National Register documentation and landscape preservation, and how significance and integrity inform stewardship, interpretation, and understanding.
A staircase with a metal railing descends to the dark opening of a cave, framed by rocks and forest
Dreaming Underground: The Mammoth Cave Sleep Study
In 1938, researchers from the University of Chicago ventured into the depths of Mammoth Cave to conduct what would ultimately prove to be a groundbreaking study in the field of sleep science.
A man takes data readings while another man sleeps in a metal framed bed.
Mammoth Gave
Official Map and Guide
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4"Y'
National Park
Kentucky
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the lnterior
lnto the Darkness
Since the dayswhen prehistoric lndians explored
the cave by the light of cane reed torches, Mammoth has inspired the imagination, tested the
courage, and awakened the senses of visitors.
Ancient artifacts and well preserved human mummies found in Mammoth indicate that people
began venturing into the cave as many as 4,000
years ago. Modern-day encounters with the cave
began, according to legend, in the late 1790s
when a hunter chasing a bear through the hills
nearthe Green Riverstumbled across its gaping
entrance. This opening today is called the Historic Entrance. At f irst just a curiosity, Mammoth
became a valuable commercial property with
the outbreak of the War of 1812 between the
United Statesand England. Cave sedimentswith
abundant quantities of nitrate, an essential ingreWoven sandals and other
artifacts have been found
in Mammoth Cave, evidence that prehistoric
lndians ventured into its
chambers. The items
are remarkably well preserved because of the
cave's constant cool temperatures and stable
humidity.
dient of gunpowder, were mined by slaves during the war. By the war's end, Mammoth was
famous. lt soon became one of the nation's
most popular attractions. Visitors came by stagecoach and by train to be led by guides
through its mysterious subterranean world. "No
ray of light but the glimmer of our lamps; no
sound but the echo of our own steps; nothing
but darkness, silence, immensity," is how one
early visitor recalled his tour. Meanwhile, explorations were revealing more of Mammoth's wonders. Stephen Bishop, renowned guide and cave
explorer, discovered miles of passages, under-
Early cave tour grollps
sometimes stopped for a
picnic, as shown in this
1880 etching.
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ground rivers, and gypsum-decorated chambers
in the mid-18OOs. Later explorers followed
where Bishop left off, pushing the known extent
of Mammoth even further, or, like Kentucky
farmer Floyd Collins, discovering other caves
nearby. Meanwhile, extraordinary events
took place in the cave. ln the 1800s and early
190Os there were weddings, performances by
Shakespearean actor Edwin Booth and singer
Jenny Lind, and the establishment of a hospital
for tuberculosis patients in the cave. At the same
time, support was growing to protect Mammoth's
natural wonders. Finally in 1941 Mammoth
Cave National Park was established to preserve
knowledge of the cave, his
daring explorations, his
many discoveries, and his
wit and humor.
Cover photo: Mammoth
Gave's most striking feature is its vast, incomprehensible size.
row passage ol Sand Cave,
a rock fell on his ankle,
trapping him. Collins
waited in the dark-cold,
unable to move, and alone.
The next day he was
found, and rescue attempts began. Risking
death themselves, Collins'
lamily, friends, and
strangers tried to lree
him. Newspapers and
radio stations across the
country carried lrequent
reports on their efforts.
Finally a shatt was drilled
and on the 1Sth day of
his entrapment rescuers
reached him, but it was
too late. Gollins was
dead. Today his body is
entombed in Crystal
Stephen Bishop was a legend in his own time. The
self-educated black slave,
who began guiding visitors through the cave in
1838 at the age of 17,
became famous for his
The tragedy of Floyd
Collins locused the attention of the nation on Kentucky's cave region in
1925. Collins was an enthusiastic cave explorer.
ln 1917 he discovered
Crystal Cave, and in 1925
he found another cave
near Mammoth that he
called Sand Cave. One
day, while exploring a nar-
Cave.
The remains ol an
1843 hospital in Mammoth Cave
experimentaltuberculosis can still be seen.
its maze of passages, its cavernous domes and
pits, its underground rivers and lakes, and its
unusual animals. At the time, 4O miles of cave
had been discovered and mapped. Since then,
explorations by cavers have shown that this is
the world's most extensive cave system, one
that is more than 3O0 miles long . . . so far. And
visitors continue to come by the thousands, drawn
by the dark frontier that is Mammoth Cave.
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Mammoth Cave National Park Backcountry Map
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Green River Ferry
Mammoth Cave
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Violet City Entrance
Carmichael Entance
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Turnhole Bend Nature Trail
2325
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Doyel Valley Overlook
Jo
p pa
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White Oak
Dennison Ferry
Day-Use Area
(No ferry,
no potable water)
2.4
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Cemetery
7
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205
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Ca
ve
Frozen
Niagara
Entrance
Sand Cave Trail
255
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A Special Note About River Mussels
Green River is home to more species of
freshwater mussels than any other river in
North America, and seven of these mussel
species are endangered. Do not touch, pick
up or collect live mussels or their shells at
any time. Possession of
live mussels or their
shells in the park is
strictly prohibited.
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hitheater
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To
97
96
Pedestrian/Bicycle
nd
Ho
tel
Dump Station
Restrooms
Dumpster
Recycling Station
Entrance Kiosk
Showers
Group Campsite
Store
Laundry
Telephone
111
89
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74 72
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Pa
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80
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84
mm
6
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83
Ma
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92
110
108
104 105
75
Post Office
Wheelchair Accessible
4
88
78
Parking
Drinking Water
5
91
94
107
103 106
3
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87
102
ra
Campfire Circle
Trailhead
95
101
n te
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Station
Trail
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98
100
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93
99
Pedestrian only
0.1 Kilometer
0.1 Mile
Rev. 3.17.2015
Mammoth Cave
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Mammoth Cave
National Park
Archeology at Mammoth Cave
Burnt cane torches
The First Ones
Over 12,000 years ago, when huge sheets of thick glacial ice covered large portions
of the North American continent, small nomadic groups of people wandered over the
Kentucky landscape. Today, archeologists refer to these early American people as Paleoindians, which means “ancient Indians.” However, we know very little about them. We
don’t know what they called themselves and we don’t know what language they spoke.
We know that they were experts at working stone to make spear points for thrusting
into their prey. We know that they lived by hunting animals and gathering plants, and we
know that part of their time was spent hunting megafauna (large animals) such as bison,
giant ground sloths, and mastodons. The PaleoIndians were a transient people, moving
frequently and moving long distances in order to follow animal herds and collect nuts,
berries, and other foods that ripened with the seasons. Because these people moved so
often and traveled in small groups, there have been few opportunities to locate the places
where they camped. So far, only a few spear points of the PaleoIndian people have been
found in Mammoth Cave National Park.
A Changing World
Over time, temperatures warmed, glaciers retreated
to the north, megafauna became extinct, and the local environment changed from a forest dominated by
pine, spruce, and fir to a forest of mixed hardwoods
containing oak and hickory. The population of the
Indians also increased. With these environmental
changes came changes in the ways native Americans
lived. Instead of hunting megafauna, they hunted
smaller animals such as deer, turkey, and raccoon.
They continued to make fine stone tools, but they
made them in different shapes and sizes, reflecting
the new hunting methods developed to more efficiently capture smaller animals. Because these de-
scendants of PaleoIndians practiced a different way
of life from their ancestors, archeologists have given
them a different name: the Archaic Indians. The
Archaic period dates from 8000 B.C. to 1000 B.C. in
Kentucky. The earliest Archaic peoples continued a
foraging way of life similar to the that of their PaleoIndian ancestors. Small groups of related peoples,
called “bands,” frequently moved within their hunting territories, collecting various plants and animals
as they became seasonally available. Several Early
Archaic (8000-6000 B.C.) sites exist in Mammoth
Cave National Park.
Getting Crowded
As the numbers of Archaic people grew, the number
of bands grew, and the hunting territory of each
band shrank in size. The smaller territories and the
differences in local environments between territories
led to the development of more and more differences between groups. Members of each band adapted
to the conditions, developing new tools and modifying seasonal movements and hunting and gathering
strategies to take advantage of the resources within
their own territory. In Mammoth Cave National
Park, this slow adaption to local environments is
reflected in an increase in the number and types of
artifacts, especially spear points, found from the
Middle Archaic period (6000-3000 B.C.). Bands
did not live in isolation. They came in contact with
other bands, and they exchanged chert, shells, copper, and marriage partners.
The Miners
During the Late Archaic period (3000-1000 B.C.)
the numbers of people in this region continued to
grow. During the later portion of the Archaic period, the Indians began making pottery, cultivating
gardens, and growing domesticated plants. It was
near the end of the Late Archaic period that Indians
began exploring Mammoth Cave and other caves
in the area, collecting minerals they found. Why
Late Archaic people traveled miles within Mam-
moth Cave to collect selenite, mirabilite, epsomite,
and gypsum is a matter of speculation. The most
likely reason is that these minerals were valued for
their medicinal properties and/or ceremonial uses,
and that they were traded to other groups for food,
shells, chert, and other goods.
Growers and Shapers
Trade and Travel
The adoption of gardening and pottery-making
signaled the beginning of fundamental changes in
the way Indians lived. No longer did they have to
rely solely upon wild animals and plants for their
subsistence. Now they could increase their food
supply by growing some of their food in gardens.
In recognition of these and other changes that occurred in the lives of the Indians, archeologists have
called the period following the adoption of potterymaking and gardening the Woodland period. The
Woodland period in Kentucky dates from 1000 B.C.
to 900 A.D., and like the Archaic period, has been
subdivided into Early Woodland, Middle Woodland,
and Late Woodland periods. During the Woodland
period, populations grew and aggregated in larger
and larger groups. Groups moved less often and
formed small sem
Mammoth Cave
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Mammoth Cave
National Park
Karst Geology
Look Beneath
Beneath the surface of South Central Kentucky lies a world characterized by miles of
dark, seemingly endless passageways. The geological processes which formed this world
referred to as Mammoth Cave began hundreds of millions of years ago and continue
today.
The Ancient World
350 million years ago the North American continent
was located much closer to the equator. A shallow
sea covered most of the southeastern United States,
and its warm water supported a dense population of
tiny organisms whose shells were made of calcium
carbonate (CaCO3). As these creatures died, their
shells accumulated by the billions on the sea floor.
In addition, calcium carbonate can precipitate from
the water itself. The build-up of material continued
for 70 million years accumulating seven hundred
feet of limestone and shale followed by sixty feet of
sandstone that was deposited over much of the area
by a large river system flowing into the sea from the
north.
About 280 million years ago the sea level started to
fall exposing the layers of limestone and sandstone.
Additional tectonic forces caused the earth’s crust
to slowly rise causing cracks to form in and between
the limestone and sandstone formations. As the uplift continued, rivers developed which over millions
of years have created the sandstone-capped plateau
above the Green River and the low, almost flat limestone plain which extends southeast of I-65.
“Acid Rain”
Rain water, acidified by carbon dioxide in the soil
seeped downward through cracks in the limestone
and began to dissolve and create the labyrinth
of passages we know as Mammoth Cave. As the
land continued to rise slowly, Green River eroded
its channel deeper and deeper, passages created
drained through the limestone toward the river
which became the out-source for waters creating
the cave. Because the major drains carried the most
water, they enlarged faster. As Green River eroded
its channel deeper into the bedrock, cave passages
continued dropping to the same level as the Green
River. Upper level passages drained and became
dry. At the present water table, cave passages are still
forming.
Surface Clues
As you approach the park, several clues suggest the
existence of caves. Road cuts along the highway
expose vast amounts of soluble limestone which
display solutionally enlarged vertical cracks, an indicator that caves are forming. The undulating landscape along the interstate is created by crater like
depressions called “sinkholes’, which funnel surface
water into the passages below. It is referred to as the
“Land of 10,000 sinks” or the Sinkhole Plain. At the
southeast edge of the Sinkhole Plain, surface streams
suddenly sink underground joining the drainage
from thousands of sinkholes and continuing to the
Northwest where they become the underground rivers in Mammoth Cave. Soluble limestone, sinkholes,
sinking streams and caves create a landform called
Karst Topography.
The Uplands
Driving Northwest from Cave City or Park City, you
climb the Chester Escarpment which rises some 300
feet above the sinkhole plain. Beyond the top of the
escarpment the plateau is divided into flat sandstone
capped ridges separated by steep, limestone-floored
valleys with many sinkholes. It is the sandstone
capped ridges that protect the cave.
Putting It All Together
The unique features of karst topography have made
Mammoth Cave the longest cave in the world, with
more than 360 miles of mapped passages. Water from sinking streams and sinkholes under the
sinkhole plain which created the cave system flows
beneath the protective sandstone caprock to spring
outlets along the Green River. Echo and River Styx
springs are historic examples of such outlets. Over
time the Green River has paused many times as it
deepened its valley resulting in the formation of multiple cave levels. In addition, textural and structural
differences between limestone beds created different flow paths in and between different cave levels.
Water flowing horizontally off the sandstone caprock
seeps into the limestone below creating vertical
shafts in the limestone. These are younger than the
horizontal passages that they by chance interconnect. The shaft drains, eventually joining actively
forming passages at the water table, thus adding to
the cave’s complexity. Finally, the caprock on the
plateau protects older upper level passages from
collapse. This is in contrast with the Sinkhole Plain
where the land surface continues to erode, causing
upper level cave passages to collapse and are eroded
away faster then newer passages can be formed at
the water table.
Creation and
Destruction
Cave passages also collapse in Mammoth Cave. As
the valleys below the ridges widen and deepen they
intersect the older upper level passages which eventually collapse resulting in a “terminal breakdown”.
The Historic Entrance to Mammoth Cave is an
example
Mammoth Cave
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Mammoth Cave
National Park
Biology and Cave Life
A Diversity of Life
Mammoth Cave National Park’s 52,700 acres constitute one of the greatest protectors of biological diversity in Kentucky. The surface contains animals typical of an eastern hardwood forest. Larger animals include white-tailed deer, fox, raccoon, opossum,
woodchuck, beaver, rabbit and squirrel. Smaller animals, such as bats, mice and chipmunks, also abound. Many reptiles and amphibians find protection in the park too.
Birds such as mourning doves, whippoorwills, owls, hawks, woodpeckers, and warblers fly through Mammoth Cave’s forests. Wild turkeys reintroduced in 1983 are now
regularly seen by visitors.
Varied Forests
While most of the park consists of second-growth
woodland, a number of unique communities of
plants – hemlocks and other northern plants growing in cool moist ravines, wetlands, and open barrens with prairie vegetation – contribute much to
the variety in plant life and harbor many of the
park’s rare species. Currently, botanists are updat-
ing the park plant list. So far, 872 species of flowering plants have been confirmed, and the list is still
growing. Of these species, 21 are currently listed as
endangered, threatened or of special concern.
Active management, including prescribed burning,
may be needed in order to protect some habitats in
the park.
Teeming Rivers
The Green River, which meanders through the
park, supports an unusual diversity of fish, including five species that have not been found anywhere
else in the world, and three species of cavefish.
Another group of aquatic animals, freshwater
mussels, survive in the sand and gravel of the
Green River. Over 50 species of mussels, including
three on the endangered species list, live in the
park. Aquatic animals in the river play an important
role in providing nourishment for other animals –
in the cave, in the river, and on the land.
Things That Go Bump In
the Dark
On first glance, in walking into Mammoth Cave, the
dark and quiet passageways may appear nearly
devoid of life. But first impressions can be deceiving, and surprisingly, biologists have discovered
over 200 species of animals in Mammoth Cave!
Animals in the cave include everything from surface
animals that have accidentally stumbled or tumbled
into the cave – like raccoons and bullfrogs – to 42
species of troglobites, animals adapted exclusively
to life in the darkness. One of Mammoth Cave’s
claims to fame, besides its length and wealth of
human history, is its biological variety. The diversity
of cave animals in the Mammoth Cave area rivals
the richness of any caveland region in the world. To
a biologist, a cave is a wildlife sanctuary – a retreat
for animals so specialized in structure and habit
that they cannot endure conditions on the surface.
To understand the survival techniques of cave
animals, we need to first take a closer look at three
environmental factors governing Mammoth Cave.
life. The temperature of the cave varies due to air
movement near the entrances, the location (on
ridges or in valleys), and the temperature of water
entering the cave. In a sense, the cave has its own
weather system. Wind is created by temperature
differences between the entrance and interior
passageways. This causes a "chimney effect,"
resulting in a wind chill factor underground. The
chimney effect can also produce "rain" inside the
cave by altering the dewpoint. The final contributor
to cave weather is the barometric pressure. Barometric changes affect air movement, humidity levels
and dew points. Subtle weather changes in the cave
make it possible for a perceptive caver to discern
outside weather conditions, even though he or she
may be hundreds of feet below the surface.
First of all, the cave world does not change as
rapidly as our sunlit world; however, change does
occur. The cave has its own cycles and rhythms of
Secondly, Mammoth Cave is intricately tied to the
outside world. The cave is different from our
world, but the survival of cave life depends on the
surface. Plants, through photosynthesis and
through their own decay, release carbon dioxide
that combines with water in the air and in the soil,
to form weak carbonic acid that carves the cave. In
Thirdly, the lack of light produces stress in caves by
limiting the availability of food. Therefore, cave
animals must make behavioral, physiological, and
morphological adaptations to survive. Some animals, called trogloxenes (or cave visitors), regularly
visit or hibernate in caves but customarily leave
caves. By collecting food on the surface and then
returning to caves, trogloxenes play an important
role in providing food for cave animals that never
venture outside. Bats, cave crickets, and pack rats
are well-known trogloxenes.
No Vampires Need Apply
Although Mammoth Cave is not currently used by
large numbers of bats, twelve species, including two
endangered species, live here.
Mammoth Cave
National Park
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
The Bransfords of Mammoth Cave
C
urious visitors have come to
Mammoth Cave since 1816 to see
the subterranean realm. Travelers of
those early years often wrote accounts of the
cave and their experiences, accounts which
were published on both sides of the Atlantic
and brought more visitors to discover the
cave first-hand with the only people who
truly knew this underworld – the guides. And
among the greatest of the guides were the
Bransfords.
Bransford family members guided visitors
in Mammoth Cave from 1838 until 1939.
Prior to the Bransfords, two generations
of earlier guides had conducted travelers
through the cave.
MAT and NICK
A new era began in 1838 when Franklin
Gorin, an attorney of Glasgow, Kentucky,
purchased the property from Hyman and
Simon Gratz. Gorin brought his 17-year-old
slave, Stephen, for a guide. He also hired
from his Glasgow friend, Thomas Bransford,
two slaves, Mat and Nick, brothers about the
same age as Stephen.
Guides Joe Shackleford and Archibald
Miller, Jr. taught the three younger guides
the tourist routes in the cave, as they themselves had been taught by earlier guides.
The three were willing learners and became
the principle guides during the next two
decades.
Not content with the known cave, each of
tuberculosis hospital in the
cave, and in 1841 the three
were set to work building
cabins in the cave to house
future patients. Two were
built in Audubon Avenue,
some in the Main Cave, and
one in Pensico Avenue.
Dr. Croghan died in 1849,
and Stephen in 1857. Now
Mat and Nick were the most experienced
guides. Dr. Charles W. Wright, in his 1858
guidebook, wrote that “although a great deal
has been said and written about Stephen,
from the fact that he was the favorite of a
former proprietor, he was in no respect superior to either Mat or Nicholas, nor was his
acquaintance with the cave more thorough or
extensive.”
Wright also mentioned that “Mat, as well
as Nicholas, saved a party from drowning
on the Echo River, by his courage and selfpossession.”
Some visitors wanted to explore the new
parts of the cave. In 1863 F.J. Stevenson of
London, England, spent ten days doing just
that. He and Nick descended into the bottom
of Gorin’s Dome, and found a pool of water
issuing from under a low arch of rock, and
passing out by a similar arch on the other
side. The following day a small boat was
constructed and lowered by guides to the
bottom of the dome. Stevenson and Nick
spent the next two days exploring the
upstream part of the river.
Mat assisted Charles Waldack, a Cincinnati photographer, in taking the first photographs in the cave. The equipment, large and
awkward, included a stereographic camera,
magnesium flare holders, and bulky reflectors, all of which Mat helped transport from
place to place within the cave. Forty-two
wet-plate stereoscopic views were taken in
1866 and published by Anthony& Co. of
New York in 1867. These are now at the
Library of Congress. The one showing Mat
at the cave entrance is a favorite of collectors.
During his 50 years as a guide, Nick
saw many famous people come to the cave.
Ralph Waldo Emerson came in 1850. His
impressions of the Star Chamber inspired
one of his essays. The following year
Jenny Lind sat in the Devil’s Armchair in
Gothic Avenue. It has since been known as
Jenny Lind’s Armchair. In 1872 Grand Duke
Alexis of Russia toured the cave, as did
Dom Pedro, Emperor of Brazil, in 1876.
That same year Shakespearean actor Edwin
Booth is said to have recited from Hamlet
from a high natural stage in the room since
known as Booth’s Amphitheatre. One of the
1867 visitors cave a colorful description of
Nick:
“We call him Old Nick, considerably
past middle age; wrinkled, a short, broad
strongman ... every one of the innumerable
wrinkles in his black face made more distinct, with his white beard and mustache,
and the whites of his eyes seeming to glow
in the blue elfish light ....”
Inscription on the cave wall, Snowball Room
them entered the dark unknown and made
new discoveries. Mat was a member of the
exploring team that first entered Mammoth
Dome and found there a miner’s lantern that
had been dropped down Crevice Pit when
the cave was worked for saltpetre. He also
discovered at the end of Franklin Avenue a
beautiful grotto later named Serena’s Arbor.
The cave property changed hands again in
1839 when Dr. John Croghan of Louisville
purchased the cave. Stephen was sold with
the cave, and Mat and Nick were leased
as before. In the truest sense, the three
belonged to the cave, and only secondarily
to their legal owners. Croghan planned a
HENRY
A second generation of Bransfords followed
the first as guides at Mammoth Cave. Henry,
son of Mat, was born in 1849; trained by
his father, he began guiding around 1872. He
delighted in showing the saltpetre hoppers
used during the war of 1812, and the road
through the Main Cave along which oxcarts
brought petre dirt to the hoppers.
Mammoth Cave
National Park
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Stephen Bishop, Cave Guide
of his courage, intelligence, and
untiring zeal. He is extremely
attentive and polite, particularly
so to the ladies, and he runs
over what he has to say with
such ease and readiness,
and mingles his statement
of facts with such lofty
language, that all classes,
male and female, listen
with respect, and involuntarily smile at his remark.
His business as a guide
brought him so often in
contact with the intellectual and scientific, that he has
become acquainted with every
geological specimen in the cave, and
hen Franklin Gorin and
having a prodigious memory, has at
A.A. Harvey purchased his tongue’s every incident of interest
Mammoth Cave in 1838, that has transpired during his adminGorin brought his young slave, the
istration.”
17-year old Stephen Bishop, to be a
new cave guide.
“Stephen and Alfred belonged to
Dr. Croghan, the late owner of the
In October of 1839, Stephen met his cave, and are to be manumitted in
new master. Gorin had sold Mamanother year, with a number of other
moth Cave to Dr. John Croghan.
slaves. They are now receiving
wages, in order to enable them to
begin freedom with a little capital, in
Liberia, their destined home.”
Stephen became a free man the
following year, but he chose to
remain at the cave.
Stephen died during the summer of
1857. He is buried in the “Old
Guide’s Cemetery” on the ridgetop
south of the cave entrance.
Quoted material taken from Stephen
Bishop, the Man and the Legend
W
“Stephen, handsome, good humored, intelligent, the most complete
of guides, the presiding genius of this
territory. He is a middle-sized mulatto, owned, as they say here, of
handsome, bright features. He has
occupied himself so frequently in
exploring the various passages of the
cavern, that there is now no living
being who knows it so well. The
discoveries made have been the result
Using a tallow candle, Stephen would
smoke his name on the ceiling of the cave.
To avoid wax dripping in his eyes, he would
use a mirror – and sometimes get the letters
backward.
Mammoth Cave
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Mammoth Cave
National Park
Extracted from the writings
of Harold Meloy
Francis Benjamin Johnson
A Short Legal History of Mammoth Cave
Beginnings
It does not clearly appear when this cave was first discovered by white settlers, probably
in the latter part of the 18th Century. The Cave was located on a 200-acre tract of land
conveyed in 1811 by Flatt to McLean. It first came into public notice during the War of
1812, when saltpetre was extracted for powder-making purposes from its nitrous deposits. It was then known as Mammoth Cave, but its extent and boundaries were then and
still are unknown. The Mammoth Cave was certainly known during the last decade of
the 18th Century, when the entire Green River area was overrun by hunters, adventurers,
and settlers. The first pioneers to enter the cave discovered many prehistoric remains,
indicating that the Mammoth Cave’s history was older than initially thought.
The First Record
In surveyor’s Book A, Page 268, in the Warren
County Clerk’s office, appears the entry of a survey
of 200 acres of land on Green River in the name of
Valentine Simons, who was the first owner of this
celebrated cavern. This survey was made on September 3, 1799, by Elijah M. Covington, then county
surveyor of Warren County and one of the wealthy
men of the Green River section. This survey gives
the metes and bounds of the 200 acres tract and
concludes with the words “to the beginning including two saltpetre caves.”
The Unpleasantness
in 1812
These two caves were called Dixon’s Cave and the
War with Great Britian was declared in June, 1812,
but the two countries had been having serious misunderstandings for many months. On July 9, 1812,
the deed to the Mammoth Cave was “sold” three
times, probably to reflect earlier transactions and
to produce a clear title. First, Valentine Simons and
his wife are listed as selling their land (including the
two caves) to John Flatt of Barren County, Kentucky,
for $116.67. On the same day, Flatt handed over title
to the lands to George and John McLean for $400
cash. Finally, on the same day, the McLeans sold 156
acres of this tract to Fleming Gatewood and Charles
Wilkins for $3,000 cash. The war was on and men
Nitre From the Soil
We know nothing of Simmons or of Flatt. Fleming
Gatewood was a brother-in-law of the founder of
Bell’s Tavern, a celebrated hostelry of bygone days
located in what was then called Glasgow Junction.
Glasgow Junction is today known as Park City, Kentucky. Gratz was a wealthy man from Philadelphia
and Wilkins was a wealthy bachelor from Lexington,
Kentucky. Gratz and Wilkins exploited the saltpetre
deposits of the caves during the entire period of the
War of 1812 and are said to have realized large prof-
Mammoth Cave on the patent issued January 31,
1812 by Charles Scott, esquire, Governor of the
Commonwealth of Kentucky. This patent gives the
same metes and bounds as the 200 acre tract issued
to Valentine Simmons in 1799. Both of these caves
were known to contain large deposits of nitrous
earth. Interestingly, January 31, 1812 was also the
first time the name “Mammoth Cave” appears on
record.
were eagerly seeking possession of the valuable deposits of saltpetre in the caves. On August 25, 1812,
Gatewood sold his half interest in the 156 acres mentioned which embraced Mammoth Cave to Hyman
Gratz for $10,000 cash. This deed recites “including
the saltpetre cave known by name of Flatt’s, now
the Mammoth Cave”. On April 20, 1813, in consideration of $400 cash, Hyman Gratz purchased the
remaining 40 acres of the 200 acre survey, which
embraced Dixon’s Cave.
its. The earth of the floor of the caves was rich in
nitrates of calcium and potash. By leaching processes this “saltpetre” was made available for commerce.
The vats and wooden pipes can still be seen just
inside the mouth of the Mammoth Cave. Kentucky
salt, as it was called, or Peter’s dirt, as it was known
to the pioneer, helped win the War of 1812, if that
war can be said to have been won at all.
The Lawyer and
the Doctor
Following the War of 1812, Mammoth Cave and
Dixon Cave fell greatly in value and on June 28, 1828,
the executors of Charles Wilkins, deceased, sold
his entire one-half interest to the other joint owner,
Hyman Gratz, for $200 cash. In the spring of the
year 1838 the cave was purchased by Mr. Franklin
Gorin of Glasgow, Kentucky, a prominent lawyer of
Barren County. He held it only a short time and, in
December of 1839, conveyed it to Dr. John Croghan.
Croghan was a son of Major William Croghan, a
Scotsman who had distinguished himself in the
United States Army. Major Croghan married a sister
of General George Rogers Clark. His oldest son,
John, was graduated from the University of Penn-
sylvania in 1813, studied medicine with Dr. Rush of
Philadelphia, and afterwards took a supplementary
course in Edinburgh, Scotland. Dr. Croghan, a
bachelor, died in 1849, leaving a remarkable will probated in Je
World Heritage Sites in the United States
Governor’s House, La Fortaleza and
San Juan National Historical Site
Red-footed booby,
Papahaˉnaumokuaˉ kea
Morning Glory Pool,
Yellowstone National Park
© HARVEY BARRISON
© KRIS KRUG
JEFF SULLIVAN PHOTOGRAPHY
2
Kluane / Wrangell-St. Elias /
Glacier Bay / Tatshenshini-Alsek
1
Statue of Liberty
Grand Canyon National Park
© MICHAEL BELL
PIXABAY/SKEEZE
© MICHAEL LOYD
Olympic National Park
3
WA SH I N GTO N - 19 81
Waterton-Glacier
International Peace Park
vii • ix
vii • viii • ix • x
A L A SK A (US), C A N A DA - 1979
Features temperate rainforest, glaciers,
peaks, alpine meadows, old-growth
forest, and wilderness coastline. Critical
habitat for endangered species including
northern spotted owl and bull trout.
www.nps.gov/olym
Over 24 million acres of wild lands and
waters are changed by glaciers and
volcanic activity.
www.nps.gov/glba, www.nps.gov/wrst
www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/yt/kluane
www.env.gov.bc.ca/bcparks/explore
vii • ix
© MIKE CRISS
Montana (US), Canada - 1995
World’s first international peace park. Rich
biodiversity and outstanding scenery with
prairie, forest, alpine, and glacial features.
www.nps.gov/glac
www.pc.gc.ca/en/pn-np/ab/waterton/
Grinnell Point
© MIKE KOCH
Old Faithful
© MARK STEVENS
23
© STEVE BOND
Yellowstone National Park
vii • viii • ix • x
Renowned for geothermal features,
Yellowstone has the world’s largest
concentration of geysers. Protects
grizzly bears, wolves, bison, and elk.
www.nps.gov/yell
iii • iv
I L L I N O I S - 19 82
With over 1,100 properties, the World Heritage List
This urban complex flourished 1000–
1350 CE (Common Era). Regional center for prehistoric Mississippian culture.
www.cahokiamounds.org
shows a shared global commitment to preserve the
world’s most important natural and cultural sites.
Monks Mound
Learn more about the World Heritage sites in the
22
4
Cahokia Mounds
State Historic Site
Preserved for All Humanity
W YO M I N G, M O N TA N A ,
I DA H O - 1978
© JIM WARK/AIRPHOTO
United States, described here with selection criteria
Redwood National
and State Parks
This gift from France to the United States is
a symbol of international friendship, peace,
progress, freedom, democracy, and human
migration. Renowned for art and engineering.
www.nps.gov/stli
World Heritage Sites in the United States can be pur-
Coastal mountain home to California brown
pelicans, sea lions, bald eagles, and ancient
redwood forest—the world’s tallest trees.
www.nps.gov/redw
i • vi
N E W YO R K - 19 8 4
scription year, and websites. The Passport booklet
C A L I F O R N I A - 19 8 0
Statue of Liberty
5
in Roman numerals (details other side), location, in-
vii • ix
Black bear, Great Smoky
Mountains National Park
chased at www.eparks.com. For more on the World
Pixabay
Heritage List: whc.unesco.org/en/statesparties/us.
© AMY HUDECHEK
Natural
Papahaˉnaumokuaˉkea
iii • vi • viii • ix • x
Cultural
Mixed
21
6
H AWA I I - 2010
Independence Hall
This vast living “cultural seascape” embodies
kinship of people to place in Native Hawaiian
cosmology. Includes seamounts, endemic
species, critical habitats, and coral reefs.
www.papahanaumokuakea.gov
vi
P EN N S Y LVA N I A - 1979
An international symbol of
freedom and democracy, this
18th-century building is where
the Declaration of Independence and Constitution were
created and signed.
www.nps.gov/inde
Greg McFall / NOAA
20
Hawai’i Volcanoes
National Park
© TODD LANDRY
viii
H AWA I I - 19 87
Earth’s greatest mass of volcanoes,
including Mauna Loa and Kilauea,
tower over a “hotspot” in the mantle. Continuous geologic activity
builds an ever changing landscape
home to rare and endemic species.
www.nps.gov/havo
21
7
PACIFIC
OCEAN
0
Hawaii
Everglades National Park
viii • ix • x
20
F LO R I DA - 1979
800 Kilometers
0
800 Miles
North America’s largest subtropical
wilderness has several vital habitats for
plants and animals including Florida
panthers and manatees. Key area for
bird migration and breeding.
www.nps.gov/ever
NPS
Yosemite National Park
19
vii • viii
© CARLTON WARD JR.
C A L I F O R N I A - 19 8 4
Glacial erosion helped sculpt
this scenic landscape. Soaring
granite cliffs, polished domes,
high waterfalls, sequoia groves,
wilderness, deep-cut valleys,
and alpine meadow habitats.
www.nps.gov/yose
18
Chaco Culture
iii
Castillo San
Felipe del Morro
N E W M E X I CO - 19 87
© ANGEL LOPEZ
Prehistoric, monumental masonry structures
in Chaco Canyon, along with a network of
roads and outlier sites like Aztec Ruins, exhibit
the vast influence of the ancestral Puebloan
culture on the Southwestern landscape.
www.nps.gov/azru, www.nps.gov/chcu
© JOCELYN PANTALEON HIDALGO
The 20th-century Architecture
of Frank Lloyd Wright
La Fortaleza and San Juan
National Historic Site
vi
© OJEFFREY PHOTOGRAPHY
P U ERTO R I CO - 19 8 3
ii
Strategic defensive structures
represent early European military
architecture, e