El Malpais

https://www.nps.gov/elma/index.htm https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/El_Morro_National_Monument El Malpais National Monument is located in western New Mexico. The name El Malpais is from the Spanish term Malpaís, meaning badlands, due to the extremely barren and dramatic volcanic field that covers much of the park's area. It is on the Trails of the Ancients Byway, one of the designated New Mexico Scenic Byways. The richly diverse volcanic landscape of El Malpais (el-mal-pie-EES) offers solitude, recreation, and adventure. Explore incredible geologic features such as lava flows, cinder cones, lava tube caves, and sandstone bluffs. While some may see a desolate environment, people have been adapting to and living in this extraordinary terrain for generations. Come visit the land of frozen fire! No roads exist through El Malpais National Monument. To explore the east side of the park, take exit 89 off I-40 and head south on Highway 117. To explore the north side of the park, take exit 81 off I-40 and head south on Highway 53. To reach the visitor center, take exit 85 off I-40 in Grants, New Mexico. After you exit, head south on Santa Fe Ave and continue straight over the freeway overpass. Take a left at the entrance sign for El Malpais Visitor Center and continue 300 yards to the parking lot. El Malpais Visitor Center Located on exit 85 off I-40 in Grants, NM, the El Malpais Visitor Center is staffed by park rangers from the National Park Service. Stop in for maps, information, orientation, cave permits, a Western National Parks Association bookstore, museum exhibits, and park movies. Take Exit 85 off I-40 in Grants, NM. If coming from the east, turn left at the stop sign, and proceed across the freeway overpass. If coming from the west, turn right at the stop sign. Turn left at the entrance sign to the El Malpais Visitor Center. Continue 300 yards to the parking area. Sandstone Bluffs Overlook Yellow sandstone cliff at sunset with dark lava field in background Sandstone Bluffs Overlook offers a beautiful view over the vast volcanic landscape of El Malpais. Wildflowers on the El Calderon Trail Hiking in Summer Enjoy a stroll along the El Calderon Trail to view beautiful wildflowers in summer. Sandstone Bluffs Overlook Summer at Sandstone Bluffs Overlook A vast expanse of lava fields as seen from Sandstone Bluffs Overlook View from El Calderon Summer view from El Calderon cinder cone A hike to the top of El Calderon cinder cone offers one a view of the entire monument. Lava Tube Cave Lava Tube caving at El Malpais Explore lava tube caving at El Malpais National Monument Maintaining a Fire Resilient Landscape at El Malpais National Monument Firefighters protected private property while allowing the Lava 18 Fire to play its natural role on public lands. The lightning-ignited fire was reported on August 22, 2019. It was located approximately 19 miles southwest of Grants, NM. The Lava 18 Fire eventually grew to approximately 2,070 acres (858 ac on the National Park Service (NPS) El Malpais National Monument and 1,212 acres on the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) El Malpais National Conservation area). Agencies Gather for Wildfire Prevention Day El Malpais fire team members joined with local and area fire crews to present a community outreach event on March 30, 2013 to kick off Wildfire Prevention Week in New Mexico. The local government and fire department and the USDA Forest Service and Bureau of Land Management collaborated to educate the public about fire–adapted human communities. World War II Plane Crashes in National Parks During WWII, more than 7,100 air crashes involved US Army Air Force (USAAF) aircraft occurred on American soil. Collectively these crashes resulted in the loss of more than 15,599 lives (Mireles 2006). Many of these military aircraft accidents occurred in remote, often mountainous, areas managed by the National Park Service. plane crash at base of grassy hill The Colorado Plateau The Colorado Plateau is centered on the four corners area of the Southwest, and includes much of Arizona, Utah, Colorado, and New Mexico. Hazy Fajada Butte, Chaco Culture National Monument Wildland Fire in Douglas Fir: Western United States Douglas fir is widely distributed throughout the western United States, as well as southern British Columbia and northern Mexico. Douglas fir is able to survive without fire, its abundantly-produced seeds are lightweight and winged, allowing the wind to carry them to new locations where seedlings can be established. Close-up of Douglas fir bark and needles. NPS Geodiversity Atlas—El Malpais National Monument, New Mexico El Malpais National Monument, the “badlands,” contains an especially rugged volcanic landscape of young basaltic lava flows, cinder cone volcanoes, and other volcanic landforms and features. It is located in the Zuni-Bandera Volcanic Field in New Mexico where the most recent eruption took place 3,900 years ago. The monument contains one of the longest lava tube systems in the world. view from rock outcrop into lower basin Monitoring Night Skies and Natural Soundscapes on the Southern Colorado Plateau Many national parks in the Southern Colorado Plateau region contain large areas of wilderness, where dark night skies and natural soundscapes are important human values. Dark night skies, which depend upon the visibility of stars and other natural components, are diminishing resources in several park units because of anthropogenic activities. Natural soundscapes—that is, the natural sounds of wildlands—are degraded by sounds caused by humans or human technology. Clouds and sky turning red and orange over Navajo National Monument at sunset Wildland Fire in Ponderosa Pine: Western United States This forest community generally exists in areas with annual rainfall of 25 inches or less. Extensive pure stands of this forest type are found in the southwestern U.S., central Washington and Oregon, southern Idaho and the Black Hills of South Dakota. Recently burned ponderosa pine forest. Southern Colorado Plateau Bird Inventories Birds are considered to be good indicators of environmental change. Inventories of bird populations not only provide valuable information that can help manage bird populations, but can also be helpful in managing other resources as well. Yellow-rumped warbler Vegetation Characterization and Mapping on the Southern Colorado Plateau Vegetation mapping is a tool used by botanists, ecologists, and land managers to better understand the abundance, diversity, and distribution of different vegetation types across a landscape. Vegetation plots used for the classification and mapping of El Malpais NM Climate Change on the Southern Colorado Plateau The combination of high. elevation and a semi-arid climate makes the Colorado Plateau particularly vulnerable to climate change. Climate models predict that over the next 100 years, the Southwest will become warmer and even more arid, with more extreme droughts than the region has experienced in the recent past. One result of climate change may be more, larger floods, like this flash flood in Glen Canyon NRA El Malpais Fire Managers Successfully Manage the Thirty Six Fire for Multiple Objectives By successfully managing the lightning started Thirty Six Fire, fire managers at El Malpais National Monument now have a toe hold in the area with reduced ground fuels that can be utilized when there is a fire in the area that is not meeting resource objectives or that may threaten the community in the area. Firefighter walks along the fireline, using a handheld driptorch to conduct a burnout operation. Big Tubes Prescribed Burn The approximately 1,000 ac Big Tubes Prescribed Burn was completed at El Malpais National Monument. May 11-12, 2016. The primary objective of this prescribed burn was to improve the grassland and forest health and reduce the amount of excessive fuel build-up. Fire is a natural part of the El Malpais ecosystem and reducing fuel build-up helps ensure the resiliency of fire dependent ecosystems. Firefighter with a drip torch Southern Colorado Plateau Mammal Inventories Mammal inventories help to close the gap in our knowledge and understanding of some taxonomic groups on the Colorado Plateau. Coyote (Canis latrans) Series: Geologic Time Periods in the Cenozoic Era The Cenozoic Era (66 million years ago [MYA] through today) is the "Age of Mammals." North America’s characteristic landscapes began to develop during the Cenozoic. Birds and mammals rose in prominence after the extinction of giant reptiles. Common Cenozoic fossils include cat-like carnivores and early horses, as well as ice age woolly mammoths. fossils on display at a visitor center Series: Defining the Southwest The Southwest has a special place in the American imagination – one filled with canyon lands, cacti, roadrunners, perpetual desert heat, a glaring sun, and the unfolding of history in places like Tombstone and Santa Fe. In the American mind, the Southwest is a place without boundaries – a land with its own style and its own pace – a land that ultimately defies a single definition. Maize agriculture is one component of a general cultural definition of the Southwest. Quaternary Period—2.58 MYA to Today Massive ice sheets advanced and retreated across North America during much of the Quaternary, carving landscapes in many parks. Bering Land Bridge National Preserve contains geologic evidence of lower sea level during glacial periods, facilitating the prehistoric peopling of the Americas. The youngest rocks in the NPS include the lava of Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and the travertine at Yellowstone National Park, which can be just a few hours old. fossil bone bed and murals of mammoths Cenozoic Era The Cenozoic Era (66 million years ago [MYA] through today) is the "Age of Mammals." North America’s characteristic landscapes began to develop during the Cenozoic. Birds and mammals rose in prominence after the extinction of giant reptiles. Common Cenozoic fossils include cat-like carnivores and early horses, as well as ice age woolly mammoths. fossils on display in a visitor center National Park Getaway: El Malpais National Monument El Malpais National Monument is a primeval volcanic landscape sculpted by a series of eruptions over the past 60,000 years and as recently as 1,200 years ago. These eruptions created a fantastic geologic wonderland of cinder cone volcanoes, lava tube caves, and some of the longest and youngest basaltic lava flows on the continent. Sunset over lava flows in a high desert Plan Like a Park Ranger for El Malpais After a bit of planning, your visit to El Malpais National Monument is sure to be a memorable one! A park ranger smiles as she looks as a nearby ridge of jagged, black lava rock. Strombolian Eruptions Stombolian eruptions look like volcanic firework displays. Explosions eject glowing volcanic bombs into the air that then fall around the crater. volcanic eruption with glowing lava seen at night Volcanic Craters Craters are present at many volcanic vents. The size and shape of volcanic craters vary a great deal from volcano to volcano, and they even change during the lifespan of an active volcano. Craters can become filled by lava domes or lava flows, and new craters may form during subsequent eruptions. cinder cone crater Find Your Park on Route 66 Route 66 and the National Park Service have always had an important historical connection. Route 66 was known as the great road west and after World War II families on vacation took to the road in great numbers to visit the many National Park Service sites in the Southwest and beyond. That connection remains very alive and present today. Take a trip down Route 66 and Find Your Park today! A paved road with fields in the distance. On the road is a white Oklahoma Route 66 emblem. Lava Flow Crochet Pillow A crochet pattern to create a personal-sized lava flow pillow! Magmatic Eruptions Magmatic eruptions include fresh lava or tephra from a magma source. Magmatic eruptions range from quiet effusions of lava to extremely explosive eruptions that can blow apart mountains and send ash clouds around the globe. volcanic eruption with glowing lava seen at night Changing Patterns of Water Availability May Change Vegetation Composition in US National Parks Across the US, changes in water availability are altering which plants grow where. These changes are evident at a broad scale. But not all areas experience the same climate in the same way, even within the boundaries of a single national park. A new dataset gives park managers a valuable tool for understanding why vegetation has changed and how it might change in the future under different climate-change scenarios. Green, orange, and dead grey junipers in red soil, mountains in background Lava Tree Mold Fossils Tree mold impressions are trace fossils that develop within lava flows. tree mold fossil appears as a round hole in lava rock with still glowing lava and wood embers inside Volcanic Resources Summary—El Malpais National Monument [Site Under Development] aerial photo of a cinder cone volcano with a large summit crater Shield Volcanoes Shield volcanoes are typically very large volcanoes with very gentle slopes made up of basaltic lava flows. Mauna Loa and Kilauea in Hawaii Volcanoes National Park are shield volcanoes. diagram of a shield volcano with lava features Cinder Cones Cinder cones are typically simple volcanoes that consist of accumulations of ash and cinders around a vent. Sunset Crater Volcano and Capulin Volcano are cinder cones. photo of a dry grassy field with a cinder cone in the distance Series: Volcanic Features Volcanoes vary greatly in size and shape. Volcanoes also may have a variety of other features, which in turn, have a great range in diversity of form, size, shape, and permanence. Many volcanoes have craters at their summits and/or at the location of other vents. Some craters contain water lakes. Lakes of molten or solidified lava may exist on some volcanoes. Fumaroles and other geothermal features are a product of heat from magma reservoirs and volcanic gases. photo of a lava lake in a summit crater Water Resources on the Colorado Plateau Describes the origin, uses, threats to, and conservation of water on the Colorado Plateau. Dark green body of water winding through red rock formations with brilliant sun overhead. Series: Volcano Types Volcanoes vary in size from small cinder cones that stand only a few hundred feet tall to the most massive mountains on earth. photo of a volcanic mountain with snow and ice Monogenetic Volcanic Fields Monogenetic volcanic fields are areas covered by volcanic rocks where each of the volcanic vents typically only erupt once. Monogenetic volcanic fields typically contain cinder cones, fissure volcanoes, and/or maars and tuff rings. They also usually encompass large areas covered by basaltic lava flows. oblique aerial photo of a lava flow that extended into a body of water Fissure Volcanoes Fissure volcanoes erupt from elongated vents (fissures) rather than a central vent. The lava flows in Craters of the Moon National Monument were erupted from fissures. aerial photo of a line of volcanic cones and lava flows Series: Volcanic Eruption Styles Categories in this traditional classification are based on the eruption styles of particular volcanoes. These magmatic eruption styles are listed in the order of increasing explosivity. volcanic eruption with glowing lava Kīpukas Kipuka are pockets of older land surfaces surrounded by younger lava flows. Kipukas are often stand out as more vegetated areas and may be older lavas or other bedrocks and surface deposits. aerial photo of a kipuka with trees surrounded by fresh lava flows Volcanic Ash, Tephra Fall, and Fallout Deposits Volcanic ash, pumice, and tephra ejected in volcanic eruptions ultimately falls back to Earth where it covers the ground. These deposits may be the thin dustings or may be many tens of feet (meters) thick near an eruptive vent. Volcanic ash and tephra can present geohazards that are present great distances from the erupting volcano. photo of a bluff with exposed fine-grained volcanic ash and pumice. Inflation Structures, Lava-Rise Plateaus & Inflation Pits At least five units of the National Park System contain inflation structures such as lava-rise plateaus and inflation pits. Inflation is the process that occurs when lava continues to be supplied within a solidified crust of a basaltic lava flow, causing the flow surface to be lifted upward. Inflation can cause lava flows to substantially thicken and create other features such as tumuli, inflation pits, and inflation clefts to form. photo of volcanic landscape covered with broken lava rock Studying the Past and Predicting the Future Using Rat Nests In the western United States, packrat middens are one of the best tools for reconstructing recent environments and climates. These accumulations of plant fragments, small vertebrate remains, rodent droppings, and other fossils can be preserved for more than 50,000 years. Packrat middens have been found in at least 41 National Park Service units. Photo of a wood rat. Series: Park Paleontology News - Vol. 14, No. 2, Fall 2022 All across the park system, scientists, rangers, and interpreters are engaged in the important work of studying, protecting, and sharing our rich fossil heritage. <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossils/newsletters.htm">Park Paleontology news</a> provides a close up look at the important work of caring for these irreplaceable resources. <ul><li>Contribute to Park Paleontology News by contacting the <a href="https://www.nps.gov/common/utilities/sendmail/sendemail.cfm?o=5D8CD5B898DDBB8387BA1DBBFD02A8AE4FBD489F4FF88B9049&r=/subjects/geoscientistsinparks/photo-galleries.htm">newsletter editor</a></li><li>Learn more about <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossils/">Fossils & Paleontology</a> </li><li>Celebrate <a href="https://www.nps.gov/subjects/fossilday/">National Fossil Day</a> with events across the nation</li></ul> Photo of a person sitting while using a laboratory microscope. Series: Volcanic Eruption Types The most fundamental way to characterize a volcanic eruption is whether it is magmatic, phreatic, or phreatomagmatic. volcanic eruption seen at a distance Series: Geologic Time—Major Divisions and NPS Fossils The National Park System contains a magnificent record of geologic time because rocks from each period of the geologic time scale are preserved in park landscapes. The geologic time scale is divided into four large periods of time—the Cenozoic Era, Mesozoic Era, Paleozoic Era, and The Precambrian. photo of desert landscape with a petrified wood log on the surface Making an Impact: Long-Term Monitoring of Natural Resources at Intermountain Region National Parks, 2021 Across the Intermountain Region, Inventory & Monitoring Division ecologists are helping to track the effects of climate change, provide baseline information for resource management, evaluate new technologies, and inspire the next generation of park stewards. This article highlights accomplishments achieved during fiscal year 2021. A man looks through binoculars at sunrise. Testing Treatments for Mitigating Climate-Change Effects on Adobe Structures in the National Parks In the US Southwest, climate change is making it harder to preserve historic adobe structures for future generations. Using adobe test walls and rainshower simulators, staff at the Desert Research Learning Center are evaluating the potential for increased erosion, and testing the effectiveness of different treatments methods to protect against it. The results will help park managers tailor their preservation methods to better protect culturally valuable resources. American flag viewed through the remains of an adobe doorway. The Plateau Postcard: Spring-Summer 2023 The Plateau Postcard is the official newsletter of the Southern Colorado Plateau Inventory and Monitoring Network. In this issue, we say hello to many new faces within the network and head to the field with some of this year's spectacular monitoring crews. Pile of postcards with images of various southwest national parks on them. A Changing Bimodal Climate Zone Means Changing Vegetation in Western National Parks When the climate changes enough, the vegetation communities growing in any given place will also change. Under an expanded bimodal climate zone, some plant communities in western national parks are more likely to change than others. National Park Service ecologists and partners investigated the future conditions that may force some of this change. Having this information can help park managers decide whether to resist, direct, or accept the change. Dark storm clouds and rainbow over mountains and saguaros. Sustaining a park and a workforce through prescribed fire Over five days in late May and early June 2023, the NPS Four Winds Fire Zone completed a 1,021-acre prescribed fire in El Malpais National Monument. The Lava Fields prescribed fire was designed to accomplish three goals: reduce fuels near natural and cultural resources, roads, and private property, reintroduce low-intensity fire into the fire-dependent pinyon-juniper and Ponderosa pine ecosystem, and reduce the likelihood of unwanted wildfires on the landscape. A wildland firefighter holding a drip torch watches low flames in a grassy area Desert Varnish Ever wondered what those dark lines were on the rock walls of canyon country? These black, brown, and red streaks are called desert varnish. streaks of black desert varnish on a red rock wall The Plateau Postcard: Winter 2024 The Plateau Postcard is the official newsletter of the Southern Colorado Plateau Inventory and Monitoring Network. In this issue, we learn about how we are trying to predict pinyon-juniper die-offs, as well as a new tool we developed to help make us all better field scientists, and we hear from Bob Parmenter about his remarkable career at Valles Caldera National Preserve. A pile of postcards. Get to Know the Plateau - Cinder Phacelia The cinder phacelia edition of Get to Know the Plateau, spotlighting a rare and endemic species on the Colorado Plateau. Brought to you by the Southern Colorado Plateau Inventory and Monitoring Network. Several curling green stalks with small purple flowers upon them. Updated Species Database Will Help Boost Amphibian Conservation Across the National Park Service To steward amphibians effectively, managers need basic information about which species live in parks. But species lists need constant maintenance to remain accurate. Due to recent efforts, the National Park Service now has an up-to-date amphibian species checklist for almost 300 parks. This information can serve as the basis for innumerable conservation efforts across the nation. A toad sits on red sand, looking into the camera. Lava Flow Forms Young lava flows also have structures and textures that reveal information about their eruptions. Basaltic lava flows come in two major forms: Pāhoehoe and ‘A‘ā. photo of ropey and blocky lava El Malpais prescribed fire program treats park lands while providing suppression benefits El Malpais National Monument successfully completed two prescribed fires spring 2024. On June 15, shortly after the conclusion of these critical fuels management projects at El Malpais, the park discovered a lightning-caused fire. Fuels reduction resulting from the prescribed fire provided a buffer that greatly assisted firefighters in fire suppression operations. Firefighters monitor a fire in ponderosa pine forest.

As flowi ng masses of hot lava cooled , large !ava tube caves were form ed. One lava tube system extends 17 miles at El Ma lpais. Where Sharp Lava Meets Smooth Sandstone In satellite photo images of New Mexico, lava flows blanketing much of El Malpais National Monument and National Conservation Area look like a huge lake southwest of Grants. The imagery betrays only dominant landscape features-lava flows, mountain ranges, mesas-that in reality mask a myriad of mysteries and wonders. El Malpais means "the badlands" in the Spanish language and is most commonly pronounced e/1-ma/-pie-ees. Its volcanic features include jagged spatter cones, a lava tube cave system extending at least 17 miles, and fragile ice caves. There is much good in these badlands; the area offers diverse natural environments and tantalizing evidence of American Indian and European history. More than mere artifacts, these cultural resources are kept alive by the spiritual and physical presence of contemporary Indian groups, including the Puebloan peoples of Acoma , Laguna, and Zuni, and the Ramah Navajo. These American Indians made their homes here and continue their traditional uses. Pc radoxically, the malpais landscape is at once primal, pristine, a ient, and surprisingly modern. Here is a living remnant of th"' Old Southwest approaching the 21st century as virtual terra in ognita or unknown lands. With continuing research, new knowle ge is revealed. Lava that poured out of McCarty's Cone establi hed a new land surface 2,000 to 3,000 years ago. Elsewhere, an ient Douglas-fir trees thrive in the midst of rugged lava terra n. The diversity of life tells a story of unique adaptation to a challenging environmen t. Past and present, myth and reality mix he re and will continu e to mix for ce nturies to come. Many landscape features in El Malpais bear Hawaiian names because early scientific knowl edge of volcanoes was developed in h e Hawaiian islands. Kipu ka s are undi sturbed areas that lava fl ows enc irc led but did not cover. These ecologica l island s of veg eta tion are living remnants of native plant and animal com- Visitor Services El Mc.lpais. N. Mex .. lies in th e high desert lands so uth of Inte rstate 40 midway between Albuquerqu e and Gallup. To the east are reservati on lands of the Lagu na and Aco ma Ind ians; to the west are those of the Zu ni and Ra mah Navajo. The Nationa l Park Service (N PS) ad mini ste rs El Malpais National Monument, and th e Bureau of Land Managem ent (BLM) administers El Malpai s Nati onal Conse rvation Area. These agencies operate a vis ito r center in Grants. The BLM also has a visitor center 9 mil es so uth of Interstate 40 on State Road 11 7. Fo r more informat ion w ri te to Nationa l Park Service. P.O. Box 939, Grants, NM 87020, or Bureau of Land Management, P.O. Box 846, Grants, N M 87020. Road access to the nati onal mon ument and nati ona l co nservation area is via State Roads 53 and 11 7 and Coun ty Road 42, whi ch links the state roads on the west and sout h of the area. Use hi gh-clearance vehicles off the state routes; 4whee l-d rive veh icles are not generally req uired. Dirt roads may be impassable when wet. Note: all veh icles are restricted to existing, designated roads. In wild erness areas both ve hicles and mechanized equipment are pro hibited. Some 85 pe rce nt of the nat ional monument has been found suitab le fo r ultimate designati on as wi lderness. In the NPS-managed nati ona l monument, cattle grazing continues throug h 1997, from whi ch tim e the land wi ll be kept as near its natu ral co nditi on as possi bl e. In th e BLM managed co nservation area, hunt ing and tra pping are allowed and cattle grazing will continue. o els, camping, food , and other travel services an d facili ties are avail able 1n and near Grants. N ex. Make your first sto at the v1s1tor ce nter in rants o obtain maps, bo ks, and other publ ications abou t the area. Raf\gers can answer quest1 of\s about you r visit, inc lu ing road co nditions an(j poin ts of interest. munities. Study of these kipukas will provide benchmark Information for restoring disturbed portions of El Malpais. Lavn types bear Hawaiian names, too. Smoother, ropy-textured lava are pahoehoe, pronounced pah-hoy-hoy. Sharp, jagged lava that rip up all but the sturdiest hiking boots are aa, pronounce!J ah-ah. By studying active volcanoes, geologists can determine h w similar features formed at El Malpais. For more than 10,000 yea rs people have interacted with the El Mal pais land scape. While tru ly anc ient Ind ian artifacts have been found, peak human occupation occurred between 950 and 1350. During th is time. El Mal pa is was at th e fringe of a po li tical and econom ic system centered in Chaco Canyon , 80 mil es to the north . As participants in this system. the ancestors of modern Pueb loans, ca ll ed "Anasaz i·· by archeolog ists, established outlier commun ities along the edges of the lava flows. When the Chacoan Cul

National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior El Malpais National Monument David Hays 2012 Hiking the Big Tubes Area The Big Tubes Area offers first hand exploration of a rugged volcanic landscape. A lava wall, lava bridges, collapses, and lava tube caves can be seen in this harsh land of beauty and mystery. Exploring the Big Tubes Area To get to the Big Tubes Area, take County Road 42 to the Big Tubes Road (NPS Road #300) and travel 4.5 miles to the parking area. Although normally accessible in a passenger car, these roads can be impassable during wet weather, even in four-wheeldrive vehicles. Please check road conditions before venturing to this area. From the parking area, a cairn-marked route leads you over a portion of the Bandera Lava Flow. These rock cairns can be difficult to see. Be sure to keep the cairn route in sight at all times. Allow yourself plenty of daylight to enjoy your exploration. The surface trail is approximately 2 miles. If you hike the whole trail, plan on spending at least 4 hours. Cave Permits Safety • Tell someone when you will return. • Know your limits: At 7500’ (2300 m) the area can be very hot & dry or cold & wet. • Footing can be difficult and lava is sharp. Equipment • Plenty of water and a snack • Sturdy hiking shoes; no sandals! • Hat, sunglasses, and sunscreen • Rugged GPS handheld device • First aid kit GPS Coordinates Know how to use your GPS unit before you begin this hike, as the trail can be difficult to follow and your GPS may save your life. From the trail, the parking area is to the west towards the low rise of Cerro Rendija. Parking Area Latitude 34° 56’ 40.5”N Longitude 108° 6’ 24.8”W Sign Junction (see map) Latitude 34° 56’ 42.6”N Longitude 108° 6’ 5.6”W Several caves in the Big Tubes Area can be explored if you have a caving permit, available for free at the El Malpais Information Center, approximately 23 miles southwest of Grants on NM Highway 53; or at the Northwest New Mexico Visitor Center, 1900 E Santa Fe Ave in Grants. Caves may be closed seasonally or yearround if they are hazardous, contain delicate rock formations, or house colonies of bats. Before you go caving, you must first talk with a ranger for the latest caving information and a free caving permit. Trail Map va Ca Coterp lla illa ps r e La Trench Wilderness To County Rd. 42 & Highway 53 Lava Tr en ch d. es R 0) Tub Big Rd. #30 (NPS Flo w Si Cro gn ss Ju ing nc Su tio rfa ce n Tu be Douglas Firs La va Tr en ch N Bandera Crater & Lava Flow ge id Br Bi va Wilderness Cairns may be difficult to find. Do not leave one cairn until you see the next. Four Windows Junction La *5 Rock cairn Giant Ice Cave Big Skylight Cave A’ a Caution g Tu As be pe s T r n Tr ailh ee ea s d ! 0.5 Miles Approximately 10,000 years ago, magma broke through the Earth’s crust just a few miles north of the Big Tubes Area. Under great pressure, the liquid rock burst into the air to form a lava fountain sometimes hundreds of feet high. Some of the lava cooled and separated in the air, falling to the ground as cinders which accumulated and built Bandera Crater. Hot, fluid lava flowed from the base of this loosely structured cinder cone in a series of flows that lasted for several years. Confined by channels of older lava, these “lava rivers” flowed to the south and east, skirting the Seven Bridges Overlook southern edge of the Zuni Mountains before spreading out over the large basin south of Grants, New Mexico. As the outer layer of the lava flows cooled and hardened, it insulated the fluid lava flowing within. Eventually, the lava ceased flowing, with the hot fluid lava emptying downhill and leaving behind vast lava tube caves. The result of this process is a seventeen-mile-long lava tube system, one of the longest in the Continental United States. The lava tube caves and collapses in the Big Tubes Area are part of this system. Wilderness Most of El Malpais National Monument has been proposed for wilderness designation. Lack of developement in this primitive environment provides a remote, quiet, and awe-inspiring wilderness experience. You can help maintain this area by understanding wilderness “Leave No Trace” ethics. Leave No Trace • Pack out everything you pack in. • Leave all natural, cultural and historical objects as you find them. • Tread lightly and leave no trace of your visit; pick up any trash you find. • Respect wildlife and never feed animals. More Information Northwest New Mexico Visitor Center 1900 E Santa Fe Ave Grants, New Mexico, 87020 505 783-4774 or 505-876-2783 www.nps.gov/elma EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ 

National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior El Malpais National Monument 1900 E Santa Fe Avenue Grants, NM 87020 505 876-2783 Notes: EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA 4/2015 National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior El Malpais National Monument www.nps.gov/elma El Calderon Area Trail Guide El Calderon Area Hiking and backcountry exploring can be found in the El Calderon Area. The El Calderon Area is located 20 miles south of Grants on NM 53 and is generally accessible year round. To protect the fragile resources of the El Malpais National Monument please stay on the trail. For more information, call the NW New Mexico Visitor Center at 505876-2783. The Visitor Center is open from 8:00 A.M. to 5:00 P.M. daily with the exception of Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. Loop Distance: 3.8 Miles North Suggested Hiking Route Dirt Road Dirt Footpath El Calderon Trail Guide Exploring El Calderon From the winding trenches that were once glowing rivers of lava, to the sloping hills of a long quiet volcano, you can imagine the forces that created this area. Where else, but at a volcano, can you see what created the rocks beneath your feet? This is where geology comes to life. The El Calderon Area offers diverse exploring opportunities. A gravel and dirt surface route winds past volcanic features on an easy to moderate 3.8 mile hiking loop. The primitive road leading west from the parking lot is accessible to high-clearance, four-wheel drive vehicles. Backcountry camping is also allowed off this primitive road. dreds of feet into the air creating the cone you see today. Rivers of molten rock created lava trenches and lava tubes. Since then, the changes have been less dramatic. A combination of vegetation and erosion slowly break down lava into smaller particles. Eventually, the area is transformed from a blackened landscape to the forested land you see today. Be adequately prepared for whatever adventure you choose so that your memories of El Calderon are good ones. As you explore the El Calderon Area, try to imagine not only what the area may have looked like 115,000 years ago, but also what it may look like 115,000 years in the future.  Tell someone where you are going  Carry plenty of water  Wear sturdy hiking shoes  Be aware of changing weather conditions  Comply with cave closures Geology in Motion The processes of geology are usually so slow that they cannot be measured in a human lifetime. Occasionally, we can see the effects of erosion or other processes after a good rain, or high spring winds, but this is usually the exception. However, there are some events that happen so quickly, their effects can be seen immediately. Volcanic eruptions are one of these events. Signs of Life The seasons bring an ever changing array of life to the El Calderon Area. In the spring, look for piñon jays and the occasional snake or lizard basking in the sun. Summer brings warmer temperatures along with several species of bats that can be seen flying from Bat Cave. As summer progresses, wildflowers blanket the ground. Fall is a good time to spot deer, elk and other animals foraging for food. During winter, prints from coyotes, bobcats, rabbits and other animals are easy to spot on freshly fallen snow. Remember to never feed or pet wild animals. It is not only dangerous for you, but also for the animals. Let wildlife be wild. In 1943 near Paricutin, Mexico, a farmer noticed a crack in one of his fields sending out gas and ash. Less than ten years later a cinder cone 1,200 feet high towered over the field. El Calderon Cinder Cone would have had a similar beginning when it was formed about 115,000 years ago. A vent shot cinders hun- © 1999 Zackery Zdinak National Park Service Researcher taking soil samples in a lava tube 1 Junction Cave Junction Cave is a lava tube created by the lava flows from nearby El Calderon Cinder Cone. At 115,000 years old, this is one of the oldest lava tubes in the monument. A Living Laboratory. In a 1995 study of caves in El Malpais, Junction Cave had more cave-adapted species than any other cave surveyed at that time. Most of the life in this cave is small to microscopic and lives in dark corners, under rocks and in deep cracks. Scientists divide the life found in caves into four categories: accidentals, trogloxenes, troglophiles and troglobites. Accidentals can be anything from moths to animals that find their way into a cave. The other types of cave life generally show some type of adaptation that allows them to use or live in the cave. Trogloxenes typically live above ground and do not depend on the cave for survival. Bats and mice are good examples of trogloxenes. Troglophiles may live their entire lives in the cave, but are not fully adapted to the cave environment. Some spiders and beetles are El Calderon Trail Guide © 2011 Kenneth Ingham examples of troglophiles. Troglobites live their entire life in the cave and are completely dependent on the c

National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior El Malpais National Monument 1900 East Santa Fe Avenue Grants, NM 87020 505-876-2783 Notes: EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA 6/2015 National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior El Malpais National Monument www.nps.gov/elma Lava Falls Trail Guide Lava Falls Area The cairn marked route at the Lava Falls Area offers exploration of the youngest lava flow at El Malpais National Monument. The Lava Falls Area is located 36 miles south of Interstate 40 on NM 117. Please check at the Visitor Center for road and trail conditions. For more information, call a park ranger at theVisitor Center at 505-8762783. The Visitor Center is open daily with the exception of Thanksgiving, Christmas and New Year’s Day. 5 3 4 6 2 1 7 9 8 Lava Falls Trail Guide Exploring Lava Falls Here, the earth is new. Flowing up from underground just 3000 years ago, the lava was a dynamic force~swirling, growing, collapsing and flowing its way into position before growing cold and resting in its final form. The course that the lava took remains here for us to ponder and explore. The Lava Falls Area lies on the youngest of the lava flows at El Malpais National Monument. McCartys Crater was active around 3000 years ago and probably erupted several times over the course of many years. The cairn marked route leads you onto the pahoehoe lava of the McCartys flow. In-depth exploration of lava flow features is available on this easy to moderate one-mile loop route. Please be adequately prepared so that your memories of Lava Falls are good ones. Exploring Lava Falls Finding Your Way Piles of rocks, called rock cairns, mark the route on this one-mile loop hike. Cairns are the most obvious way to mark routes across the lava flows and have been used for centuries to mark pathways across this land. Be sure to not leave one cairn until the next is in sight. Do not add to existing cairns or build new cairns. Maintenance to the cairns is done on a regular basis by National Park Service employees. Building new cairns off the intended route may cause other visitors to become disoriented and even lost.  Carry plenty of water  Wear sturdy hiking shoes 1 A Sense of Wonder This is a wondrous landscape and even volcanologists are prone to asking, “I wonder what happened here?” What was going on to make the lava dip over here and swell over there? Why is the lava so smooth here and so rough there? While some of these questions can be answered, some cannot. Use the information in this guide to help you understand the volcanic forces that created this area, but do not become bound by it. Stop and look closely at the rock; peer into cracks and crevices; ponder seemingly impossible formations. Let your own sense of wonder be your guide to this landscape. At the same time, do not let your sense of wonder overtake your sense of safety. Pay attention to your surroundings and know your limitations. Rock cairns mark the way on this and many other routes at El Malpais. Although most of the cairns on this route are quite large, they can blend into the surrounding landscape and be difficult to see. National Park Service Basalt and its associated flow top features Basalt: The most common type of volcanic rock. Appearance: Can be gray, black or reddish brown. Vesicles, or holes, were formed by escaping gas. Basalt at El Malpais can be smooth and ropy, called pahoehoe (pa-hoy-hoy), or rough and broken, called a’a (ah-ah). Basalt can take on many forms as seen below.  Xenoliths: Fragments of the Earth’s mantle that were brought to the surface by fast-rising magma and encased as the lava cooled; means “foreign rock.” Lava Toes: These small lobes of lava are common along the edges of pahoehoe flows. They are formed when hot lava breaks out of semi-hardened lava. Ropy Pahoehoe: Pahoehoe is a Hawaiian term for relatively smooth lava. Ropy texture is common on pahoehoe flows.  Lava Falls Trail Guide Tachylite: A glassy-textured basalt. Here, the tachylite can be seen as a thin crust. Part of the crust has broken away, exposing the basalt beneath it. Basalt and its associated flow top features Pressure ridge: Ridges of lava formed by lateral pressures; almost always has a large crack running down the crest. Squeeze-up: Small mounds or ridges of lava that have resulted from the extrusion of lava through a crack in the solidified crust. 2 Lava All Around From the air, large scale features of lava flows are visible. Collapses, cinder cones and miles of black rock tell the story of how lava flowed from a volcano and covered the land. From the ground, an entirely new dimension to the flows appears. Cracks, ripples and bubbles tell a more intricate story. When lava spilled out of McCartys crater, it did not just settle over the ground in a smooth, even layer. It was a dynamic force that took on distinctive features as it flowed over the land. Pressure ridges collided and cracked; collapses sunk into empty c

El Malpais National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior El Malpais National Monument Caving Underneath the lava flows of El Malpais lie a hidden world of lava tube caves. With a free caving permit and proper equipment, you can explore fascinating geology and hidden ice formations. Caving Permits Cave Safely Cave Softly Permits are required and available at the El Malpais Visitor Center, Information Center (seasonally), and the El Morro Visitor Center. Permits are free, and visitors must speak with a park ranger about cave safety, conservation information, and their level of caving experience. Cave permits are only valid for indicated times and specific caves. Talk with a park ranger and visit the park website to learn more: www.nps.gov/elma Don’t Go Alone - Group exploration makes caving safer. Keep together, warn others about hazards or fragile formations, and always tell someone where you are going and when you will return. Lots of Lights - Each caver should carry three light sources and extra batteries. Prevent Exposure & Injury - Dress appropriately for caves. Ambient temperatures in most caves is around 42 degrees (6 degrees celsius) year-round, some are colder. Wear long sleeves, long pants, boots, and gloves. Cave ceilings are sharp, use helmets to protect yourself. Know Your Limits - Injuries and disorientation are more common when you are tired. Always choose a cave that is easy enough for the least experienced member of your group. Caves are not safe for small children and service animals due to the rugged nature of the terrain. Leave No Trace - Do not eat, drink, smoke, litter, or leave human waste inside caves. Many cave formations are delicate and can easily break - do not touch them. Cultural Artifacts - Do not touch or disturb cultural artifacts such as pottery, arrowheads, or animal bones. Respect Bats - Observe closures to protect bats while they are hibernating or raising EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ Be Observant - Pay attention to your route and remember junctions and landmarks. their young. If you do see a bat, stop talking, keep your light pointed away, leave the area as quietly as possible, and report the sighting to a ranger. This will help protect these important animals. Prohibited - Campfires, smoking, camping, pets, and candles are not allowed in caves. These activites along with vandalism, including marking or defacing cave features, is illegal and punishable by law. Bats & White-Nose Syndrome At least 14 bat species are found in the monument. Many depend on lava tubes for shelter, reproduction, or hibernation. Bat Cave is home to a summer colony of ~ 40,000 Brazilian free-tailed bats, the only colony of its kind for hundreds of miles. Bats are a critical part of our environment and provide great economic benefits. Many eat insects, including agricultural pests, saving American farmers millions of dollars in pesticides and crop damage annually. Fruit-eating bats pollinate the plants that provide us with cashews, bananas, coconuts, avocados, or tequila. a disease known as White-Nose Syndrome that has killed over 6 million bats in the U.S. and Canada. To prevent the spread of this disease, all visitors requesting cave permits are screened for factors that make them a high risk for introducing the disease from their footwear or equipment. To learn more about bats, visit a Western National Parks Association park store at a visitor center, or visit Bat Conservation International’s website: www.BatCon.org Bats are in peril from a European fungus, Pseudogymnoascus destructans that causes EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA™ August 2015