"Aerial view of Fort Jefferson, Florida in 1993" by U.S. National Park Service , public domain
Dry Tortugas
National Park - Florida
Dry Tortugas National Park is about 68 miles (109 km) west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico. The park preserves Fort Jefferson and the seven Dry Tortugas islands, the westernmost and most isolated of the Florida Keys. The archipelago's coral reefs are the least disturbed of the Florida Keys reefs.
The park is noted for abundant sea life, tropical bird breeding grounds, colorful coral reefs, and legends of shipwrecks and sunken treasures. The park's centerpiece is Fort Jefferson, a massive but unfinished coastal fortress. Fort Jefferson is the largest brick masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere, and is composed of more than 16 million bricks. Dry Tortugas is unique in its combination of a largely undisturbed tropical ecosystem with significant historic artifacts. The park is accessible only by seaplane or boat. Activities include snorkeling, picnicking, birdwatching, camping, scuba diving, saltwater fishing and kayaking.
Brochure about Conserving and Remounting Fort Jefferson’s Cannon at Dry Tortugas National Park (NP) in Florida. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
https://www.nps.gov/drto/index.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_Tortugas_National_Park
Dry Tortugas National Park is about 68 miles (109 km) west of Key West in the Gulf of Mexico. The park preserves Fort Jefferson and the seven Dry Tortugas islands, the westernmost and most isolated of the Florida Keys. The archipelago's coral reefs are the least disturbed of the Florida Keys reefs.
The park is noted for abundant sea life, tropical bird breeding grounds, colorful coral reefs, and legends of shipwrecks and sunken treasures. The park's centerpiece is Fort Jefferson, a massive but unfinished coastal fortress. Fort Jefferson is the largest brick masonry structure in the Western Hemisphere, and is composed of more than 16 million bricks. Dry Tortugas is unique in its combination of a largely undisturbed tropical ecosystem with significant historic artifacts. The park is accessible only by seaplane or boat. Activities include snorkeling, picnicking, birdwatching, camping, scuba diving, saltwater fishing and kayaking.
Almost 70 miles (113 km) west of Key West lies the remote Dry Tortugas National Park. This 100-square mile park is mostly open water with seven small islands. Accessible only by boat or seaplane, the park is known the world over as the home of magnificent Fort Jefferson, picturesque blue waters, superlative coral reefs and marine life, and the vast assortment of bird life that frequents the area.
Dry Tortugas National Park is one of the most remote parks in the National Park System. Located approximately 70 miles west of Key West it is accessible only by a daily concession ferry, private boats, charter boats, or seaplane.
Florida Keys Eco-Discovery Center
Temporarily closed due to Covid-19. Enter Florida Keys Eco-Discovery Center and take a journey into the world of the native plants and animals of the Keys, both on land and underwater. Leave with an increased awareness and appreciation of the need to protect and conserve ecosystems of South Florida. The Center features over 6,000 square feet of interactive and dynamic exhibits including a mock-up of Aquarius, the world's only underwater ocean laboratory.
Arriving from the north: Take US 1 South Turn right on North Roosevelt Boulevard Continue on Roosevelt; it will turn into Truman Avenue Take a right on Whitehead Street Take a left on Southard Street Go straight until you see the Center on the right
Garden Key Visitor Center
Garden Key Visitor Center is located inside Fort Jefferson. At the visitor center you will find artifacts, an informational movie, the bookstore, and souvenirs.
The visitor center is inside Fort Jefferson. Once you enter the fort, it will be to your right.
Garden Key Campground
Garden Key, home to Fort Jefferson, has a primitive campground only a short walk from public dock and piers. Individual sites can accommodate up to three 2-person tents (6 persons max per-site) on a first-come, first served basis. In the event a regular campsite is unavailable, an overflow area will be made available. Upon arrival all overnight visitors will be provided a place to camp. For parties of 10 or more, a group campsite is available through our website.
Garden Key Campground Fee
15.00
The campground is a self-service fee area with a nightly fee of $15 per campsite. A 50% discount applies to holders of the Golden Age or Golden Access Pass. No other discounts apply. Fees paid for transportation (seaplane or ferry) do not include camping fees.
Golden Age or Golden Access Pass
7.50
A 50% discount applies to holders of the Golden Age or Golden Access Pass.
Tents at the Dry Tortugas
Tents and supplies set up on the campground.
Campsites have picnic tables and grills. Campers must bring all supplies, including a tent, fresh water, fuel, ice, and food. All trash and garbage must be carried out upon departure.
Overflow Camp Area
Tents are set up on the overflow area of Garden Key
Should a regular campsite not be available, an overflow area is provided. All campers, once they arrive will be guaranteed a place to camp. Campers will not be turned away.
Camping Fee
The self-service fee area at Garden Key.
The campground is a self-service fee area with a nightly fee of $15 per campsite. A 50% discount applies to holders of the Golden Age or Golden Access Pass. No other discounts apply. Fees paid for transportation (seaplane or ferry) do not include camping
Milky Way over Garden Key Campground
A clear view of the Milky Way as it stretches over a campground and fort.
Camping is the best way to see unaltered views of the night sky and hear the symphony of sounds protected by the National Park Service.
Night sky at the Dry Tortugas
A few of the stars at night with a view of Fort Jefferson.
The Dry Tortugas is so remote that night sky viewing is possible.
Sunset at Fort Jefferson
Park visitors enjoy a sunset on the moat wall.
Sunsets at the Dry Tortugas are breathtaking. Visitors who choose to camp over night can view the sun set at Fort Jefferson.
Inside Fort Jefferson
A view inside Fort Jefferson.
Garden Key is the second largest island in the Dry Tortugas, about 14 acres in size, and has had the most human impact. Located on Garden Key is historic Fort Jefferson, one of the nation’s largest 19th century forts and a central cultural feature of Dry
Diving at the Dry Tortugas
Two divers dive the Windjammer Wreck
The Dry Tortugas has over 300 sunken ships. One of the most accessible is the Winjammer Wreck which can be dove or snorkeled.
Loggerhead Key
A boat passes in front of Loggerhead Key during sunset.
The largest island in the Dry Tortugas, Loggerhead Key is a site of shipwrecks, a significant lighthouse installation, and where the historic Carnegie Laboratory for Marine Ecology once stood. Named for its abundance of loggerhead sea turtles, Loggerhead
Fort Jefferson
A view of Fort Jefferson from the moat all.
ort Jefferson is a massive but unfinished coastal fortress. It is the largest masonry structure in the Americas, and is composed of over 16 million bricks.
Aerial view of the Dry Tortugas
An aerial view of the Dry Tortugas
The Dry Tortugas is made up of seven islands.
Reconstruction
During Reconstruction, the Federal government pursued a program of political, social, and economic restructuring across the South-including an attempt to accord legal equality and political power to former slaves. Reconstruction became a struggle over the meaning of freedom, with former slaves, former slaveholders and Northerners adopting divergent definitions. Faced with increasing opposition by white Southerners and some Northerners, however, the government abandoned effor
Picture depictsing former slaves and free blacks voting following the passage of the 15th amendment
Sea-level rise and inundation scenarios for national parks in South Florida
A review of the science leads researchers to project sea level rise and inundation, trends in the frequency of nuisance flooding, recurrence intervals of storm surge, and impacts on infrastructure intended to provide useful information for managers and planners.
Median RCP8.5 mean sea-level elevation projections for Everglades and Biscayne; NPS/Everglades NP
Sex on the reef: Observations of coral spawning in Dry Tortugas National Park
A collaborative state and federal dive team observes the annual reproductive spawning event of protected corals in Florida’s most remote park.
A colony of elkhorn coral releases thousands of egg-sperm bundles; NPS/Brett Seymour
Spiny Lobster Reserves
Spiny lobsters (Panulirus argus) are keystone predators that, by preying on other carnivorous invertebrates in the reef ecosystem, control populations and mediate competition among prey species. The removal of this species thus reduces the biodiversity and resilience of the entire system.
Spiny lobster observed from above ocean floor.
Science at Sea in the Gulf of Mexico
Science at Sea - Follow along as a research cruise makes its way around the Gulf of Mexico and collects water samples from 4 national parks.
ocean view of Florida Bay
NPS Geodiversity Atlas—Dry Tortugas National Park, Florida
Each park-specific page in the NPS Geodiversity Atlas provides basic information on the significant geologic features and processes occurring in the park. Links to products from Baseline Geologic and Soil Resources Inventories provide access to maps and reports.
masonry fort on island
Preserving Places of Captivity: Civil War Military Prisons in the National Parks
During the Civil War, over 400,000 Union and Confederate soldiers were held prisoner at more than 150 diff erent prison sites. Approximately 56,000 of these died in captivity. Although Andersonville is the most famous Civil War prison, it is only one of many Civil War military prisons that are preserved by the National Park Service.
Shaping the System under President George H.W. Bush
President George H.W. Bush was an ardent supporter of the national parks. Explore some the parks that are part of the legacy of the presidency of George H.W. Bush, who served as the 41st president of the United States from January 20, 1989 to January 20, 1993.
President George H.W. Bush shaking hands with a park ranger at the World War II Memorial
Third System of Coastal Forts
How should a country protect its borders? The United States had to consider this question when the War of 1812 ended in 1815. One year later, the federal government believed it had an answer. The nation created a broad national defense strategy that included a new generation of waterfront defenses called the Third System of Coastal Fortifications.
The setting sun lights a stone fort wall where a US flag flies high.
Veteran Story: Erin Rust
"This place is indescribable. There is an immense contrast between the incredibly delicate coral ecosystem and the monumental Fort Jefferson." A park ranger describes her transition from active duty military to veteran national park ranger.
Rows of arches of Fort Jefferson with it's black lighthouse in the foreground
Seacoast Ordnance
Cannon manufactured for use in Third System forts are called seacoast ordnance. These were some of the largest and heaviest cannon available at the time. Cannon at forts Pickens, McRee, Barrancas, Massachusetts, and Advanced Redoubt fell into three categories: guns, howitzers, and mortars. Each had a specific purpose.
National Parks Defend America's Coast During World War II
Many national park sites joined the war effort in World War II by erecting Aircraft Warning, radio and radar stations. Some historic forts came to life with coastal defenses ready to defend the nation.
color photo of explosion atop a fort wall, ocean beyond
Data Manager Profile: Judd Patterson
Meet Judd Patterson, Data Manager for the South Florida Caribbean Network. As a data manager, helps wrangle all the information that we collect on the health of our park resources. Judd is excited about the stories data can tell through time, whether that's looking back at park records from over a hundred years ago, or making sure the science we do in our parks today become time capsules for future generations to learn about how things were back in 2021.
Data manager Judd Patterson smiles at the camera while holding camera equiment.
The Job is His, Not Yours
In the early 1950s, park wives continued to function as they had from the 1920s to the 1940s. The NPS still got Two For the Price of One, relying on women to keep monuments in the Southwest running, to give freely of their time and talents, to build and maintain park communities, and to boost morale among park staffs. With the creation of the Mission 66 Program to improve park facilities, the NPS found new ways to put some park wives to (unpaid) work.
Man and woman with telescope
Connecting Fire, Connecting Conservation
Fire burns across south Florida in a landscape level prescribed fire operation.
Fire burns and smoke billows across south Florida landscape
Top 10 Tips for Planning your Trip to Dry Tortugas National Park
Plan like a Park Ranger with these top 10 tips for visiting Dry Tortugas National Park
The clear turquoise water laps against the shore as a woman walks along the white sand.
Changing Patterns of Water Availability May Change Vegetation Composition in US National Parks
Across the US, changes in water availability are altering which plants grow where. These changes are evident at a broad scale. But not all areas experience the same climate in the same way, even within the boundaries of a single national park. A new dataset gives park managers a valuable tool for understanding why vegetation has changed and how it might change in the future under different climate-change scenarios.
Green, orange, and dead grey junipers in red soil, mountains in background
Women in Landscape-Scale Conservation: Kristen Hart
Kristen Hart loves turtles! In this short interview, she explains how she got started in landscape-scale conservation and offers some advice to young people getting in to the field...like learning how to change a tire!
woman kneels next to sea turtle in boat
Guide to the Thomas J. Allen Photograph Collection
Finding aid for the Thomas J. Allen Photographs in the NPS History Collection.
Series: Parks in Science History
Parks in Science History is a series of articles and videos made in cooperation with graduate students from various universities. They highlight the roles that national parks have played in the history of science and, therefore, the world's intellectual heritage.
A woman looking through binoculars
National Parks in the History of Science: America's First Tropical Marine Laboratory (Video)
Field research often requires field laboratories. Not surprisingly, those labs are in some of the most interesting ecosystems on the planet. With clear water, diverse habitats, and abundant life, the Dry Tortugas – 70 miles beyond Key West, Florida – hosted America’s first tropical marine laboratory from 1904-1939. The legacy of science continues today as Dry Tortugas National Park and its partners work to understand and protect this special place.
a historic black and white photo of a complex of buildings on the end of an island spit
Project Profile: Protect and Restore Coral Reefs
The National Park Service will take a multi-faceted approach to coral management by implementing disease treatment, on-the-ground restoration, research, and other management actions to increase coral reef health.
a diver in scuba gear examines coral
Fort Jefferson Virtual Tour
Construction of Fort Jefferson began in 1846 on Garden Key, surrounding a brick lighthouse that had been built there in 1825. The fort was intended to protect American shipping interests in the Gulf of Mexico. It was the largest all-masonry fort in the United States. Explore Fort Jefferson via HDP’s virtual tour, point cloud, animations, and archival HABS documentation.
View of lighthouse and two-story arcade with green lawn in foreground
Rediscovering HMS Tyger
On January 13, 1742 HMS Tyger ran aground on coral reefs near Garden Key. The crew desperately heaved the heavy cannon and anchors offboard to lighten the load, and tried shifting the vessel off its perch. But it was no use. HMS Tyger was stuck – really stuck – and friends were 700 miles away. Hundreds of years later, archeologists identified the shipwreck and have learned much more about the crew’s plight on the isolated island chain.
Painting of HMS Tyger
50 Nifty Finds #45: Holding the Line
The National Park Service (NPS) was only 26 years old when the United States entered World War II. The young bureau faced very real threats to its mission, with increasing pressure to contribute its natural and cultural resources to the war effort even as its budget and staff were slashed. Under the leadership of Director Newton B. Drury, the NPS was able to do its part for the war while maintaining its public trust responsibilities to the American people.
Worth Fighting For fire prevention poster
National Park Service Protects Critical Corals from Destructive Disease
The National Park Service is working to increase overall coral health and resilience to climate change and other environmental stressors and prevent the extirpation of multiple species in the Southeastern U.S.
a scuba diver works to replant coral underwater
Project Profile: Prevention/Islands: Traveler Education
The National Park Service will lead a collaborative effort with Department of the Interior bureaus and other partners to promote behaviors that will decrease the risk of spreading invasive species on islands. Education and outreach products will be developed with the goal of reaching the largest audience of island visitors possible.
Half above and half underwater view of thick mangrove roots growing.
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
Florida
Fort Jefferson
Self-Guided Tour
Seth Eastman, 1875
Background
Chart of the Dry Tortugas
The story of Fort Jefferson lies with the maritime history of the Florida Straits
and the excellent harborage afforded by the Dry Tortugas. These two geographic features stand at a nexus of currents, winds, and shipping routes.
The Dry Tortugas rest at the western extremity of the massive Florida Reef
system, the third largest coral barrier reef in the world. To the south lies the
island nation of Cuba. Between the two lies the 106-mile bottleneck of the
Florida Straits, through which flows the Florida Current. The shallow waters
of the Dry Tortugas represent a strategic refuge for ships transiting these sealanes between the Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic.
It was in 1513 that Don Juan Ponce de Leon discovered the islands of the Dry
Tortugas and the Florida Current. The Florida Current is known as the Gulf
Current after it merges with the Antilles Current near Cape Hatteras, North
Carolina. For mariners in the Gulf of Mexico and the Florida Straights, this
2-to -4 knot current was highly prized for the added speed it provided their
vessels. This was especially true for Spanish vessels carrying riches from the
New World back to Spain. As maritime traffic increased along this current,
the anchorage of the Dry Tortugas became vital as a haven for ships in times
of inclement weather and war.
After the Louisiana Purchase in 1803, American merchants from the Mississippi River began frequenting the Dry Tortugas harbor. By the time Florida
was acquired by the United States in 1821, military strategists of the young
nation were already formulating ideas on how to secure this vital anchorage
for American interests.
Fort Jefferson Self-Guided Tour Booklet 1
Homeland Defense
“Of themselves (forts) they can never exert an influence dangerous
to public liberty; but as the means of preserving peace, and as
obstacles to an invader, their influence and power are immense.”
- Lieutenant Henry W. Halleck “Report on the Means of National
Defense 1843”
Throughout the 19th Century, the United States sought to defend its vast
maritime frontier and flourishing merchant trade. Still in its infancy as a
nation, the United States did not have the means to construct a vast navy
to rival those of Europe. These factors, combined with the financial desire to maintain a small, affordable military, influenced strategic thinkers
to focus on a defensive strategy based largely around coastal forts. This
culture of coastal forts flourished until after World War II and the advent of aircraft, missiles, and easily deployed amphibious assault tactics.
Fort Jefferson stands today as a superb example of this earlier national
strategy and has seen little change in its original appearance over time.
Named for President Thomas Jefferson, the walls of Fort Jefferson encompass 10 acres of the 16-acre Garden Key. The third-largest seacoast
fortification the United States ever built, it served along with Fort Zachary Taylor and the East and West Martello towers in Key West to secure
the Florida Reef in the 19th Century for American interests. Fort Jefferson was specifically constructed to defend the strategic harbor located
in the Dry Tortugas. Situated at the northern entrance to the Florida
Straits, any naval force in possession of the Dry Tortugas would have a
base of operations from which ships could be sent out to harass commerce or Gulf coastal cities. Fort Jefferson was constructed to control
this point because the United States lacked the naval force to protect
the harbor. The fort’s immense size reflects this mission; the fort would
undeniably stand alone in the event of a naval assault. Therefore, Fort
Jefferson was designed to hold enough artillery, men, and supplies for a
year-long naval siege.
President Thomas Jefferson
1801-1809
National Park Service 2
Map of Garden Key,
showing proposed
location of fort, 1845.
Design and Construction
General Joseph Totten,
Chief of the Army Corps of
Engineers, 1838-1864
Fort Jefferson was designed by General Joseph Totten, who served as Chief of the Army Corps of Engineers from 1838 until his death in 1864. The fort is
hexagonal (six-sided) with three levels, or tiers, for
artillery. Constructed mostly of poured concrete,
the facade of the fort is composed of over 16 million bricks. The fort was under construction from
1846 until 1889, but was never completed because
of structural issues, the growth of the United States
Navy, technological advances in warship design (specifically steam propulsion), and the advent of large
ship-borne rifled artillery that advanced beyond the
defensive capabilities of Fort Jefferson’s architecture.
The fort’s remote location, the extreme summer heat, disease and hurricanes all
hindered construction. Materials for construction of the fort came from as far
away as Maine, and as close as
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
P.O. Box 6208
Key West, FL 33041
Visiting Bush Key
A Subtropical
Isle Awaits
Those who visit Dry Tortugas National Park in the fall are afforded the special
opportunity to catch a rare glimpse of life on an undeveloped, subtropical island.
Though only 20 acres in size, Bush Key boasts an impressive assemblage of plants
and animals not found elsewhere in the continental United States. Autumn visitors
are invited to take a stroll along the shoreline of this island to discover both subtle
charms and unexpected surprises—all beneath an amazing avian spectacle that
unfolds overhead.
Island Access
Bush Key is open for visitation annually from
October 15 to January 15. During this time,
visitors are welcome to land kayaks, canoes,
dinghies, or small skiffs on the beach at
the western end of the island from sunrise
to sunset. To preserve a tranquil visitor
experience, landings are limited to a total of
24 persons daily, and visitors are required to
obtain a vessel permit from a park ranger.
From the landing beach, a 1-mile trail winds along
the margin of Bush Key, providing opportunities
to experience some of the area’s natural features,
including sand beaches, coastal dunes, and an
active Magnificent Frigatebird colony.
Visitors seeking a shorter walk are invited
to use the designated crossover trail located
approximately midway along the island. Visitors
are asked to stay on marked trails to prevent
disturbing vegetation and nesting wildlife. A
sturdy pair of closed-toe shoes is recommended,
and visitors are advised to use caution while
navigating the rocky terrain of coral rubble.
Visitor are also advised to bring an ample supply
of drinking water.
Visitors should plan approximately 1-2 hours to
explore Bush Key. Inquire at the visitor center on
Garden Key regarding the availability of rangerled tours during your stay.
Bush Key
Map Key
Trail Head
Trail
East Pond
Sensitive Island Vegetation
Dingy / Kayak Landing Beach
Long Key - Island Closed to Visitation
Long Key
(Closed all year to
protect nesting birds)
Island Living
The cycle of life unfolds continuously on Bush
Key. Skeletons of red mangrove trees rise
along the northern shore of the island in silent
testimony to the power of occasional hurricanes.
But beneath, amidst sand and coral rubble, grows
a verdant garden of sea lavender, prickly pear
cactus, and coastal sea rocket. Among the roots
and rocks wander hundreds of tiny hermit crabs.
Some timber or an old bottle might even be found
washed upon the shore—seafaring flotsam from
a far distant coast, perhaps. Such curiosities may
lower your gaze, but its important to also look up!
Brown Pelicans, Double-crested Cormorants,
gulls, and terns all frequent Bush Key in great
numbers. And from a distance, visitors can take
The Other Nine Months
in the daring aerial maneuvers of immense
Magnificent Frigatebirds as they conspicuously
circle their nests on Long Key. A quick glance
into the shallows south of Bush Key might even
find a nurse shark swimming idly by—plying
the waters of the nearby Nurse Shark Special
Protection Zone.
Dense growth of sea lavender and coral rubble beaches are
but a few of the scenes that greet visitors to Bush Key.
Access to Bush Key is restricted for the majority
of the year to protect the unique assemblage of
wildlife that gathers on the island. Cacophonous
nesting colonies of Frigatebirds, Brown Pelicans,
Brown Noddies, and Sooty Terns take up
residence in the spring, where they raise their
young before abandoning the island again in late
summer.
During the fall migration, Bush Key beckons a
collection of transient songbirds, warblers, and
raptors en route through the Atlantic flyway. These
birds often depend upon the island vegetation for
protective cover.
The key also provides important habitat for both
loggerhead and green sea turtles, which nest on
the sandy beaches of Bush Key throughout the
summer. In addition, the island provides habitat
for a surprising year-round resident—a federallyprotected American crocodile, which can
occasionally be found sunning itself. For years,
this crocodile has called the East Pond of Bush
Key home, and visitors are asked to maintain a
respectful distance wherever it is encountered.
Island in Flux
Sooty Terns (top) and Brown Noddies (bottom) are present
seasonally at Bush Key.
The Dry Tortugas are a dynamic landscape. The
actions of wind and water are a constant catalyst
for change, and the islands respond to them
dramatically. As evidence, the number of islands
found here has varied over time between eleven
and six.
Hurricanes Katrina and Wilma passed near the
islands of the Dry Tortugas in 2005, stripping
Bush Key of much of its vegetation. The island
remained closed to visitation during subsequent
years, affording the establishment of the new
growth that is visible today.
Swarming masses of nesting birds that were once
known to exist
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
Lighthouses of Garden Key
Lighthouses serve as important navigational markers for mariners alerting them
to areas of dangerous waters. Garden Key has been home to two different lighthouses. The first permanent structure in the Dry Tortugas was the 1826 lighthouse. This was later replaced with the harbor light which is perched atop of
Fort Jefferson today.
History of Lighthouses of
the Dry Tortugas
Given their location at the intersection of the
Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean where
the swift Gulf Stream current flows through
the Straits of Florida, the Dry Tortugas witnessed considerable shipping traffic. Westward
expansion in the U.S. led to an increase in the
transport of goods from the interior of the
continent to the cities along the east coast.
Stormy weather or a captain’s inexperience
could result in ships veering off course and
wrecking in the shallow reefs of the Keys.
from the reefs. The light was simply not tall
enough to adequately mark the hazards of the
Dry Tortugas.
After numerous wrecks and complaints from
mariners, a new lighthouse was built on
Loggerhead Key and lit on July 1, 1858. This
reduced the lighthouse on Garden Key to a
harbor light.
In 1821, a survey was conducted for possible
sites for lighthouses to alleviate the nautical
risks within the Florida Keys. The first lighthouse in the Tortugas was located on Garden
Key and was first lit on July 4, 1826. It was
70 feet above sea level and was fitted with 23
lamps and 14 inch reflectors.
Almost immediately, mariners complained
that the light was difficult to see in the hazy
conditions of the gulf. Ships could also find
themselves in dangerous waters before the
light was visible because it was too far away
Hurricane of 1873 and 1875
1826 Lighthouse on Garden Key
The Dry Tortugas was hit by a very strong
hurricane in 1873 that damaged many of the
features of the fort including the wharves, bakery and brick oven on the parade ground. The
1826 lighthouse also took significant damage.
Another hurricane struck the Tortugas in 1875,
and the tower and lantern sustained major
damage. It was determined that the lighthouse
was becoming unsafe and an eyesore, so it was
torn down in 1876.
Plans were established for a new light to be
built on top of the bastion 6 stair tower.
1826 Lighthouse Foundation Ruins
Construction of the Dry
Tortugas Harbor Light
The new harbor light was designed much
differently than the original lighthouse. A
brick lighthouse can create dangerous brick
fragments and shrapnel if it were to be hit by
a cannon shell. The new hexagonal pyramid
tower design incorporated boiler plate iron as
the major construction material to help protect
the personnel inside the fort from dangerous
shrapnel.
Construction began in 1876 and it is 82 feet tall
from the base of the fort, however the harbor
light itself is only 37 feet high. The lighthouse
was first lit on April 5, 1876 incorporating a
fourth-order Fresnel lens and daymark of dark
brown.
Lighthouse Keeper’s
Residence
1876 Harbor Light Atop of Fort Jefferson
The original keepers’s residence was a two
story frame structure located just northeast of
the sally port. Chief Engineer Totten issued a
directive that the lighthouse property should
be fenced when the Engineer Department
began construction of Fort Jefferson in 1846,
as it was not the property of the U.S. Army.
wrap around porches was built slightly closer
to the original lighthouse site.
The hurricanes in 1873 and 1875 damaged the
original keepers residence. Sometime around
1876, a new raised keeper’s quarters with
Automation of the light tower occurred in the
same year, with tanks of acetylene replacing
the butts of kerosene to fuel the lights.
In 1912, a devastating fire started in the
outhouse of the keepers quarters and then
spread to the house quickly engulfing it. No
visible aspects of this building exist today.
Post 1876 Lighthouse Keepers Residence with Wrap Around Porch
Present Day Use
Contact Information
The Tortugas Harbor light was deactivated
in 1921 as it was deemed unnecessary as an
official aid to navigation.
The harbor light is currently lit at night and
it is powered by three 75 watt incandescent
bulbs.
Harbor light powered by modern incandescent bulbs
Garden Key Harbor Light at Sunset
Kelly Clark
Cultural Resources Specialist
Dry Tortugas National Park
33 East Quay Rd
Key West, FL 33030
experience your america™
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
Loggerhead Key Lighthouse
The Loggerhead Key Light Station is significant for its role in facilitating America’s ocean-borne commerce and as a notable example of a civilian public works
project undertaken by Army engineers prior to the Civil War. Since it was first lit
in 1858, it has helped to alert mariners to the dangerous waters and shallow reefs
of the Dry Tortugas. It also marks the western end of the Florida Reef.
History of Lighthouses of
the Dry Tortugas
Given their location at the intersection of the
Gulf of Mexico and the Atlantic Ocean where
the swift Gulf Stream current flows through
the Straits of Florida, the Dry Tortugas witnessed considerable shipping traffic. Westward
expansion in the U.S. led to an increase in the
transport of goods from the interior of the
continent to the cities along the east coast.
Stormy weather or a captain’s inexperience
could result in ships veering off course and
wrecking in the shallow reefs of the Keys.
conditions of the gulf. Ships could also find
themselves in dangerous waters before the
light was visible because it was too far away
from the reefs. The light was simply not tall
enough to adequately mark the hazards of the
Dry Tortugas.
After numerous wrecks and complaints from
mariners, a new lighthouse was proposed to be
built on Loggerhead Key.
In 1821, a survey was conducted for possible
sites for lighthouses to alleviate the nautical
risks within the Florida Keys. The first lighthouse in the Tortugas was located on Garden
Key and was first lit on July 4, 1826. It was
70 feet above sea level and was fitted with 23
lamps and 14 inch reflectors.
Almost immediately, mariners complained
that the light was difficult to see in the hazy
Construction of the
Loggerhead Lighthouse
The location for the lighthouse was selected
and on August 18, 1856 when Congress appropriated $35,000 for its construction. Work on
the tower began in 1857 and by 1858, the 150
foot tower was completed. This included the
installation of a first-order Fresnel lens, the
largest lens available.
1826 Lighthouse on Garden Key
oil house, a two-story keepers dwelling, a
separate two-story kitchen, two brick cisterns
and several privies.
The Fresnel lens was developed by physicist
Augustin Fresnel, and resembles a large glass
beehive surrounding a single lamp. This concentrated the light into one horizontal beam,
producing a brighter signal light.
Several other structures were also constructed
on Loggerhead including a detached two-story
First-Order Lantern With Fresnel Lens
Life of a Lighthouse Keeper Benjamin Kerr was the first keeper assigned
to the light station in 1858 with an annual
salary of $600. He brought with him his wife
and seven children and was assigned there
until 1861 when he was replaced by James
Lightbourn.
The keepers duties included keeping all
aspects of the light station clean and in good
working order, lighting and maintaining the
lamps, painting and all finishes both inside and
out of all buildings, and maintaining clothing and accessories necessary to service and
protect the light.
was particularly isolated. There were 10 keepers assigned to the lighthouse between 1858
and 1912.
A break in the monotony came for keepers
when on occasion they would be invited to
socialize with the families of the offers stationed at Fort Jefferson. The keepers would
sometimes hold parties on Loggerhead Key,
usually in conjunction with turtle turning
expeditions. “Turtle turning” involved turning sea turtles on their backs, rendering them
helpless and unable to escape. These parties
were often accompanied by the sharing of
food, music and dancing.
As one might expect, life on Loggerhead Key
Yellow Fever and
Hurricanes
A yellow fever outbreak in 1867 resulted in the
Light Station falling into disrepair for several
years. During the period between 1867 and
1871. Loggerhead Key was used as a quarantine station for military personnel, which
strained resources and impeded maintenance
of the buildings.
A second outbreak of yellow fever occurred in
September 1873, requiring all healthy soldiers
on Garden Key to once again be relocated to
Loggerhead Key. During the outbreak, thirty
people were infected resulting in 12 deaths.
The healthy were still on Loggerhead Key
when the hurricane of 1873 hit the island.
The hurricane struck the island on October 6,
1873. Although the track of the hurricane took
the eye of the storm north of the Tortugas, it
delivered a damaging blow to the Light Station.
Present Day Use
Throughout history the lighthouse has had
upgrades keeping up with new technology. On
September 1, 1931 the Loggerhead lighthouse
became the most powerful light in the U.S.
with 3 million candlepower from the newly
installed electric light. In 1986, it was fitted
with an automated 24 inch Directional Code
Beacon which could be seen 24 miles away.
The initial evaluation of the stor
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
Life on Loggerhead
Loggerhead Light
The largest island in the Dry Tortugas, Loggerhead Key has seen many changes in its
history. From a site of shipwrecks, to a world-class lighthouse installation, to a
cutting-edge marine research laboratory, to a goal for Cuban refugees, Loggerhead Key is
a part of the crossroads that are the Dry Tortugas.
Loggerhead Lives
Named for its abundance of loggerhead sea
turtles, Loggerhead Key has long been a haven
for wildlife. Migrating birds flock here on their
way north, and coral fishes are abundant in the
coral reefs just offshore. But sea turtles are
perhaps the most abundant species on the
island, with approximately 250 nests yielding
15,000 hatchlings each summer. The Dry Tortugas support the largest green and loggerhead sea
turtle nesting grounds in the Florida Keys.
Mariners were often attracted to the sea turtles
on Loggerhead as a food source for their sea
voyage, but they found the Tortugas to be a
dangerous place. More than 250 shipwrecks
have been documented in these waters. Upon
acquisition of Florida from the Spanish in 1821,
the US government was immediately interested
in constructing a lighthouse in the Tortugas to
protect mariners from the reefs. Construction
of the first lighthouse in the Tortugas began
on Garden Key in 1825. This lighthouse (later
replaced by the iron light atop Fort Jefferson)
proved to be too short, too dim, and too far
away from other reefs.
In 1856, construction began on a taller lighthouse on Loggerhead Key. 150 feet tall and
topped with a 1st order Fresnel lens (replaced
with a 2nd order bivalve lens in 1909), the new
light was observed at a distance of 53 miles. The
2nd order lens is now on display at the National
Aids to Navigation School in Yorktown, VA.
While the lighthouse was under construction,
a contractor finished construction of a house
and kitchen (as seen in the 1870 image above).
The main house burned in 1945, but the kitchen
(the smaller brick house in the image above) still
stands and is occupied by National Park Service
volunteer caretakers. A "new" lighthouse
keepers house to the north of the lighthouse
was built for the keeper's family in the 1920s.
Fort Jefferson on Garden Key was under construction at the same time as Loggerhead Light.
This made for interesting times for the lighthouse keepers. One soldier stationed in Fort
Jefferson recalled that to relieve boredom, "at
times, a group of us would steal over to Loggerhead Key to have strong drink and shout at
the stars." Loggerhead was also the destination
for many escape attempts from Fort Jefferson's
prison. One successful escapee paddled a makeshift raft to Loggerhead, then stole the keeper's
boat and rowed to Cuba. Another desperate
prisoner swam to the island on a piece of wood
with a ball and chain attached to his ankle!
Carnegie Laboratory
Coast Guard
Recent History
The Dry Tortugas have long been recognized
for their pristine ecosystem. The most
significant scientific research in the Tortugas
was conducted on Loggerhead Key in the
Laboratory for Marine Ecology, operated by the
Carnegie Institute. From 1905 to 1939,
Carnegie Laboratory scientists studied the
reefs and waters of the Tortugas. Among the
Carnegie Laboratory’s significant scientific
contributions include the first underwater black
and white and color photography. Although the
laboratory was destroyed by hurricanes over
the years, a monument to the lab’s founder,
Alfred Mayor, remains on the northern part of
the island.
The US Lighthouse Service maintained
Loggerhead Light through World War II, when
lighthouse duty was transferred to the US Coast
Guard. Single lighthouse keepers stayed six
weeks, followed by three weeks ashore. Their
chief complaints were the lack of women,
having to cook for each other, and the isolation,
reporting "the first week here is glorious, the
second is all right, but the third begins to drag."
The light was fully automated in 1982 and all
Coast Guard staff left the island.
Long-time visitors to Loggerhead Key
remember it being forested with Australian
pines. The National Park Service removed the
pines in the late 1990s as part of a plan to
introduce native species onto the islands and
provide better nesting habitat for the park's
namesake sea turtles. The Park Service also
removed the island's diesel generator and
installed solar panels for electricity needs. The
island is now totally self-sufficient on solar
power.
In recent years, the number of Cuban migrants
to the Tortugas has skyrocketed. Under current
United States policy, Cuban migrants seeking to escape Cuba must have one "dry foot"
on American soil to stay in the country, claim
certain benefits, and pursue citizenship. Many
migrants seek to enter the country (illegally) on
Loggerhead Key due to its isolation.
A Crossroads
The Dry Tortugas have long been a crossroads
of natural and human influences. Sea
Junior Ranger
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
Dry Tortugas National Park
Junior Ranger Program
Welcome to the Park!
Have you ever wondered where the name “Dry Tortugas” came
from?
Spanish Explorer Ponce de Leon discovered these islands in 1513
only 20 years after Christopher Columbus discovered the Americas. Ponce de Leon was so impressed with the abundant wildlife in
the area, that he named these islands “Las Tortugas” (Spanish for
“the turtles”). There were large sea turtles everywhere! Years later,
“Dry” was added to the
name to warn people
that fresh drinking
water was scarce on
these islands.
A Special Place
Dry Tortugas National Park is a special for many reasons. The
100-square-mile park contains:
•
•
•
•
•
•
A pristine subtropical ecosystem including the third largest
coral reef in the world
Historic Fort Jefferson - one of the largest coastal forts ever
built
Important populations of wildlife, including fish, sea turtles,
birds, coral, lobsters, and many others
Some of our countries greatest submerged cultural resources,
including more than 300 historic shipwrecks
An important resting spot for migrating birds
Two historic lighthouses
How to Become a Junior Ranger
It’s simple and fun! As you explore the park, fill out this handbook.
When you are finished, bring it to the Bookstore.
Who Am I?
Connect the dots to find out.
14
15
19
12
20
16
13
17
21
18
11
22
24
23
10
9
28
7
25
8
29
5
6
1
2
4
*Hint:
27
26
3
As an adult, I weigh 300-500 pounds.
Scavenger Hunt Bingo
Dry Tortugas National Park is home to many different plants, animals, and important historic artifacts. Circle each item below that
you find. Find five items in a line (up, down, across, or diagonally)
to score a BINGO!
Coral
Crab
Bakery
Frigate Bird
Dr. Mudd’s
Cell
Conch
Tree
Seagrass
Jellyfish
Bush Key
Shark
Shot
Furnace
Cannon
Barracks
Musket
Barracuda
Chapel
Gull
Snapper
Sea Star
Anemone
Gunpowder
Magazine
Busy Crossroads
The Dry Tortugas are located at a busy crossroads. Like an underwater highway, the Gulf Stream carries warm water, ships, and
marine life by the Tortugas.
•
New York
North America
New Orleans
Bahamas
Dry Tortugas
Cuba
Yucatan
Mark the Gulf
Stream on your
map by drawing a line from
the Yucatan (in
Mexico) to the
Bahamas
Large ships pass the
Tortugas everyday.
• Draw the shipping lanes from
New York to
the southern
tip of Florida.
Next, connect
the southern tip
of Florida with
New Orleans
The Tortugas are a
welcome sight for
migrating birds.
• Connect North
America with
winter nesting
areas in South
America
•
South America
Is YOUR home
on this map?
Letter Home
Imagine yourself stationed at Fort Jefferson in 1864...
How would you describe life at the Fort?
November 1, 1864
Dear Family:
I am working in the bakery at Fort Jefferson. A prisoner recently
complained that our bread is a mixture of ____________ , ___________ ,
___________ and ___________ .
There are nearly 2,000 people living on this remote island. Importing
enough fresh fruit and vegetables for so many people is very difficult.
Many of us have painful bleeding gums caused by _______________.
Getting enough drinking water is another serious problem. The fort
has _________ cisterns that can hold ________________ gallons of water.
Unfortunately many of these cisterns ________ allowing sea water to
__________ in. Most of our drinking water is now ruined.
The fort is surrounded by beautiful water and coral reefs. Fishing and
swimming are our favorite hobbies. Coral is made of tiny living animals
called polyps. We are very careful not to touch or stand on coral because it is very ________________ .
Signed,
Dry Tortugas National Park
Junior Ranger Pledge:
(your name)
As a Junior Ranger, I ____________,
promise to help protect
Dry Tortugas National Park,
my community, and the Earth
by being an active and responsible
steward of the environment.
P
Junior Ranger Signature
AM
T
S
Park Ranger Signature
Cut along the dotted line to remove your certificate from the book.
Dry Tortugas
National Park
Biscayne
National Park
Everglades
National
Park
Big Cypress
National
Preserve
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
Bird Key Wreck
The Bird Key Wreck, also known as the Brick Wreck, is located in shallow, 4-6 feet deep
waters on Bird Key Bank. Be cautious: strong currents sometimes sweep across Bird Key
Bank. Dive flags are required for snorkeling or diving. To find the wreck, consult the map
on the opposite side.
Wreck History
There is no specific information on the
circumstances surrounding the wreck. All that
is known is that the grounding and loss
occurred sometime between 1857, the first date
that the firebricks found on the wreck were
manufactured, and 1861, the last date that the
yellow construction bricks were produced for
the Federal government. The wreck could be
the Scottish Chief, a steamer 126 feet long and
built in 1855 in Wilmington, North Carolina.
The Scottish Chief was operated by the Tift
brothers of Key West, who supplied bricks to
Fort Jefferson during this period.
The ship was driven onto Bird Key Bank with
the engine running, whether by accident or
intentionally. The bow struck the bank and
"accordioned," breaking the ship into two
separate pieces. After settling onto the bank, the
ship was salvaged, with removal of the engine
and most of the ship's machinery. Further
scattering of materials resulted from storms and
hurricanes.
Remains indicate that it was a screw-driven,
narrow-beamed, shallow-draft, flat-bottom
steamboat of composite construction. She had
a wrought iron frame with iron hull plates along
the bottom and partway up the sides, and an
exterior covering of wood. The flames flared
outward on each side near the tops to support
a broad main deck. It was intended for use in
shallow and relatively sheltered waters, not the
open ocean. The presence of outer hull
sheathing of Muntz metal, a copper-zinc alloy,
points to a mid-nineteenth century date of
origin for the ship. The wreck could be the
oldest screw-powered vessel in National Park
Service waters.
The vessel had a large, six-foot, four-bladed
wrought iron propeller with flared blade tips.
The paddle-like configuration of the propeller
and need for external strapping over the ship's
deadwood reveals flaws in the ship's design
and points to a mismatch between the heavily
built propeller shaft and the lightly constructed
lower hull.
There were at least two types of brick found
on the wreck. Unmarked yellow bricks matching those used in the construction of the major
parts of Fort Jefferson were found, along with
refractory bricks used to line the ship's firebox. The refractory bricks are dated and have
"Evens, Howard St. Louis" markings, indicating
that the ship could not have sunk before 1857.
Getting There
Location: Lat 24 37.228' Lon 082 53.071'
Starting from the green BK 5 marker on the
western edge of Bird Key Harbor, cross the
harbor on a line with Loggerhead Light. When
the water shallows on the harbor's western
edge, turn left (south) for approximately one
hundred feet. The wreck is oriented toward
Loggerhead Key, so look for the propeller,
which is usually easy to spot in morning or
midday light.
Exploring the Site
The Brick Wreck is one of many wreck sites
within Dry Tortugas National Park. These
islands, shoals, and reefs have been the scene of
nearly 300 shipwrecks. The proximity of these
reefs to the nearby shipping lanes of the Gulf of
Mexico has made them a natural “ship trap.”
The wreckage and its associated coral are
fragile. Please do not touch! If you choose to
drop anchor, pick a location that is a safe
distance from the wreck site. Make sure that
you anchor on a sandy bottom that is free of
coral.
Please remember that all shipwrecks, artifacts,
and coral are protected within the park. Take
only pictures and memories from the site.
You are the key to preserving this and other
important sites. Only with your help will future
generations be able to enjoy the park’s rich
maritime heritage.
E X P E R I E N C E Y O U R A M E R I C A
11/07 - 2M
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
P.O. Box 6208
Key West, FL 33041
Windjammer Wreck
In the dark, early morning hours of January 21, 1907, heavy winter wind and waves
buffeted the Avanti. A navigational error while attempting to pass around the Dry
Tortugas contributed to the crew’s misfortune. At 6:44 a.m., thirty-two years to the day
after it was launched, the Avanti struck the Loggerhead Reef. Its iron hull, nearly as long
as a football field, scraped along the jagged coral reef with a sickening sound. Howling
winds muffled the cries of the 19-man crew as they frantically tried to save their dying
vessel. Losing the port anchor in an attempt to slow the ship’s movement, the crew
became desperate. Unsure of the holding power of the windlass, the anchor cable was
brought out of the forecastle and wrapped around the starboard bits.
Taking on water and inching deeper into the rumbling seas, the remaining anchor was
dropped to prevent the vessel from slipping off into deeper water and sinking. Heavily
damaged and stranded, the ship eventually broke apart. Though the crew was saved and
much of the cargo later salvaged, the Avanti was a complete loss.
Today the wreck offers divers and snorkelers a haunting glimpse of a once-proud
sailing ship. The Avanti is also the most complete wreck site in the park, and provides a
breathtaking backdrop for a wide variety of colorful reef fish, coral, and marine life.
Window to the past
Greyhound of the Seas
The Windjammer Wreck, located less than a
mile southwest of Loggerhead Key, has gone by
several names over its long history. Its
association with the famous class of sailing
vessels known as windjammers has led to its
more popular, though less accurate name. The
Norwegian ship was officially known as Avanti
when it sank in 1907.
significant new possibilities. Iron hulls could be
built much larger and cheaper, had greater
capacity than wooden vessels of the same
dimensions, and were far more durable.
Importantly, the use of iron contributed to
higher profits, a crucial factor in the highly
competitive shipping industry of the late
nineteenth century.
The Avanti is an important example of large
sailing vessels built relatively late in the age of
sail. It combined smooth, traditional
architectural lines with newer, more durable
building materials. The development of iron
hulls in the mid-1850s offered ship designers
Even these structural breakthroughs could not
postpone the inevitable. With the birth of steam
propulsion, the age of sail was rapidly coming
to a close. Large sailing vessels like the Avanti
were some of the last tall ships built during the
romantic age of sail.
Built in 1875 in Liverpool, England, the threemasted vessel was originally named Killean.
Large for its day, the Killean had a length of
261.4 feet, a beam of 39.3 feet, and a draft of 17.5
feet. The Killean had a gross tonnage of 1,862
tons. In its prime the vessel combined impressive size and speed to compete with rival shipping companies carrying cargoes to worldwide
markets.
Exploring the Site
The Killean was sold in 1894 to the French
shipping company A.D. Bordes and Fils.
Renamed Antonin, it became part of a large fleet
of ships used in the shipment of nitrate
fertilizers from Chile to European farmers. After
seven years the Antonin was sold for a final
time. The new owners, Acties Avanti of Norway,
renamed the vessel Avanti. The aging Avanti
was used in its final years as a tramp carrier
seeking cargoes wherever available. While in
Pensacola the vessel was damaged and stranded
during the October 1906 hurricane. On January
9, Avanti departed Pensacola bound for Uruguay carrying a load of lumber. It would prove
to be Avanti’s final voyage.
The Avanti is one of many wreck sites within
Dry Tortugas National Park. These islands,
shoals, and reefs have been the scene of nearly
300 shipwrecks. The proximity of these reefs to
The wreckage and its associated coral are
fragile. Please do not touch! A mooring buoy is
provided for anchoring. If you choose to drop
anchor, pick a location that is a safe distance
the nearby shipping lanes of the Gulf of Mexico
has made them a natural “ship trap.”
from the wreck site. Make sure that you anchor
on a sandy bottom that is free of coral. Fishing is
prohibited at the Windjammer Wreck site, as it
is within the Research Natural Area.
The wreck site lies in approximately 18-21 feet of
water. The site is in two main wreckage fields.
The bow portion, approximately 110 feet in
length, lies in a generally east-west direction.
It includes the bow, midships, and foremast.
The second field, also roughly 110 feet in length,
lies in a generally north-south direction. This
second field is composed of midships, stern,
mizzen, and main mast structures.
E X P E R I E N C E Y O U R A M E R I C A™
Please remember that all shipwrecks, artifacts,
and coral are protected within the park. You are
the key to p
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
Conserving and Remounting
Fort Jefferson’s Cannon
Fort Jefferson was armed with many different types of cannons throughout its history. Some of
the largest were the Parrot and Rodman Cannons. Parrott rifled cannon weigh 26,780 lbs and
were designed to fire 300 lb projectiles a range of over 5 miles. The 15-inch Rodman weighs over
50,000 lbs and could fire a 440-pound shell over 3 1/2 miles.
Parrott History
The term “Parrott gun” refers to a series
of American Civil War-era rifled cannon
designed by Captain Robert P. Parrott (18041877). Parrott resigned from the US Army in
1836, becoming superintendent of the West
Point Iron and Cannon Foundry in Cold
Spring, New York.
In 1860 he invented the Parrott rifled gun,
which was manufactured with a combination
of cast and wrought iron. The cast iron made
for an accurate gun, but was brittle enough to
suffer fractures. Hence, a large wrought iron
reinforcing band was overlaid on the breech
to give it additional strength. There were prior
cannons designed this way, but the method
of securing this band was the innovation that
allowed the Parrott to overcome the deficiencies of these earlier models. The band was
Rodman History
The term “Rodman gun” refers to a series of
American Civil War-era columbiads designed
by Union artilleryman Thomas Jackson
Rodman. These smoothbore guns were
designed to fire both shot and shell. These
heavy guns were intended to be mounted
in seacoast fortifications. They were built in
8-inch, 10-inch, 13-inch, 15-inch, and 20-inch
bore. Other than size, the guns were all nearly
identical in design, with a curving soda bottle
shape and a large flat back with ratchets or
sockets for the elevating mechanism.
Rodman guns differed from all previous artillery because they were hollow cast, a new
technology that Rodman developed which
resulted in cast iron guns that were much
stronger than their predecessors. The 15-inch
model of the Rodman gun was manufactured
between 1861 and 1871. Three hundred and
twenty-three Rodmans of this size were produced by Cyrus Alger & Company, the Scott
applied to the gun red-hot and then the gun
was turned while pouring water down the
muzzle, allowing the band to attach uniformly.
These rifled guns were designed to fire projectiles and were manufactured in a large range of
sizes, from smaller 10-pounder field artillery
up to the rare 300-pounder guns. The larger,
heavier guns were intended to be mounted
in seacoast fortifications and for use on naval
ships. Although accurate, cheaper and easier
to make, the Parrott guns had a poor reputation for safety. It was the big 300-pounder
Parrott, however, which was brought to bear
against the fortified walls of Fort Sumter. The
300-pounder Parrott was also used against
Fort Pulaski, in an assault which ultimately
breeched that fort’s walls.
Foundry, and the Fort Pitt Foundry. There are
25 known survivors; the six at Fort Jefferson
represent almost ¼ of the surviving examples.
In addition, cast in 1871, the Fort Jefferson
cannon were some of the last Rodmans to be
produced.
The first mention of 15-inch Rodmans for
Fort Jefferson occurs in 1862. The Armament
Board decided to substitute 15-inch Rodman
for the 10-inch columbiads scheduled to be
mounted on top of the bastions. Plans were
made to install the Rodman cannon at Fort
Jefferson in 1872, when increased international tensions led to a program to quickly
modernize the weaponry at Fort Jefferson.
Problems with timber for the carriage platforms and other issues meant that the Rodman
guns were not mounted at Fort Jefferson until
1873. The six 15-inch guns were mounted on
iron, center-pintle carriages, one at each of the
fort’s six bastions.
Sale of Cannons for Scrap
In 1900, the Ordnance Department auctioned
ordnance stores from Fort Jefferson. The sale
price was $14,054.20 and included ninety
10-inch Rodman cannon, over 19,000 cannon
shot, shells, carriages
The 10 big guns remained at Fort Jefferson
probably because they were difficult to move
and quite literally more trouble than they were
worth.
Conservation Efforts
The first stage of treatment was to remove
delaminating and heavy oxidation using handheld hammers and pneumatic chisels, then all
surfaces were then blasted with media to bring
the cannon back to white metal. The cleaned
surfaces were then primed immediately after
blasting with a zinc rich epoxy primer.
military manuals, both of which suggest that
the historic lacquer applied to the guns would
have left a shiny appearance.
A glossy black silaxine paint was chosen as a
top coat based on historic photographs and
Raising and Remounting
the Cannon
The bore was cleaned and then treated with
a corrosion inhibitor. Then it was filled with
bags of silica gel, a desiccant, and then sealed
with a pair of deckplates to create a microclimate, reducing the chances of corrosion.
Parrott Rifle Pretreatment
Parrot
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
P.O. Box 6208
Key West, FL 33041
Preserving Fort Jefferson
Preserving Fort Jefferson provides a unique challenge to National Park Service
employees and contractors. The remote marine environment, the logistical
difficulties, and the size of the fort conspire to make restoring the fort seem
daunting. However, highly skilled contractors are now hard at work to insure that
Fort Jefferson will be preserved for future generations.
Protection and
Problems
Fort Jefferson was intended to hold 450
cannons and 1,500 men. The latest technologies
were incorporated into its design to protect the
soldiers here. Specialized iron shutters used to
protect the cannon openings were one of the
many technological advances used here. These
hinged, wrought-iron shutters were placed
between the mortar core of the fort and the
brick façade. A great achievement for their day,
they were first introduced into American forts
in 1857. These shutters were known as “Totten
shutters,” after the coastal fort designer,
General Joseph Totten.
During use, the shutters were unlocked from
the bronze strike plate below. Upon firing the
cannon, gases escaping from the muzzle the
moment before the egress of the shot would
momentarily throw the shutters open. The shutters were carefully balanced so that they would
swing freely and ‘rebound’ into the closed position.
Unfortunately, the very metal that provided
valuable protection to soldiers under fire proved
devastating to the fort itself. In a salt-water
environment, the wraught-iron quickly began to
rust and expand. As the iron rusted, it pushed
the brick apart, causing serious structural damage to Fort Jefferson’s walls. A walk around
the moat shows where large sections of the
fort walls have collapsed into the moat. This is
largely caused by the rusting shutter system.
The founding legislation of Dry Tortugas
National Park mandates the National Park
Service to “protect, stabilize, restore, and
interpret Fort Jefferson, an outstanding
example of nineteenth century masonry
fortification” for future generations. Without
undertaking serious action to stop further
degradation, it became obvious to National
Park Service personnel that the walls of Fort
Jefferson were in serious trouble.
Original Bronze Strike Plate
Preservation Solutions
Dry Tortugas National Park has initiated a multiphased, multi-year preservation project to stabilize Fort Jefferson. The scope of this project is to
carefully remove the existing brick surrounding
the embrasure (cannon) openings on the lower
level in order to gain access to the original iron
elements. When possible,original bricks will be
cleaned and set aside for reuse.
Next, crews will remove all of the rusted iron
elements from the original Totten shutters and
stabilize the exterior walls of Fort Jefferson by
rebuilding the scarp (fort) wall. Concrete made
of local sand and coral - just as used in the
original construction - historic bricks salvaged
during demolition and new replacement bricks
are being used to preserve the historic appearance of the walls. In addition, the parapet and
upper tier embrasure openings will be stabilized
through selective brick replacements and repointing of the mortar joints.
The last step is to restore the Totten shutters “in
kind” per the Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for the Treatment of Historic Properties.
A good example of the “finished product” can
be seen on a walk about halfway around the
moat, where the wall has been restored and the
replica Totten shutters have been installed.
The current phase of the project is concentrated on stabilizing seven embrasures located
on Front 3 and has a target completion date of
July, 2014. In 2013, a contract for this work was
awarded to Stone and Lime Imports, of Brookfield, MA. The demolition and stabilization
work you are witnessing today is being carried
out by skilled masons from Stone and Lime
Imports, Inc.
Pre-Treatment
Working and Living at
Fort Jefferson
Housed within the walls of Fort Jefferson, the
masonry crew of ten to twelve workers per shift
more than doubles the current population of
full-time NPS employee residents. Masons are
on site three weeks and then are off island for a
week. While not on the island, contractors will
most likely return to their families and friends at
home in the Northeast.
Post-Treatment
else the preservationists like to relax when the
day is over by snorkeling, fishing, kayaking,
reading, or even watching TV.
Masons are working full days from early in the
morning until the evening. One added amenity
that Stone and Lime Inc. has budgeted into their
time here is a chef. The chef lives with the crew
members and prepares three meals a day as well
as snacks and refreshments. Additionally, the
chef maintains the quarters in a clean and orderly way, so the masons can focus on their jobs
and not have to spend their down time doing
other work.
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
P.O. Box 6208
Key West, FL 33041
Preserving Fort Jefferson
Preserving Fort Jefferson provides a unique challenge to National Park Service
employees and contractors. The remote marine environment, the logistical
difficulties, and the size of the fort conspire to make restoring the fort seem
daunting. However, highly skilled contractors are now hard at work to insure that
Fort Jefferson will be preserved for future generations.
Protection and
Problems
Fort Jefferson was intended to hold 450
cannons and 1,500 men. The latest technologies
were incorporated into its design to protect the
soldiers here. Specialized iron shutters used to
protect the cannon openings were one of the
many technological advances used here. These
hinged, wrought-iron shutters were placed
between the mortar core of the fort and the
brick façade. A great achievement for their day,
they were first introduced into American forts
in 1857. These shutters were known as “Totten
shutters,” after the coastal fort designer,
General Joseph Totten.
During use, the shutters were unlocked from
the bronze strike plate below. Upon firing the
cannon, gases escaping from the muzzle the
moment before the egress of the shot would
momentarily throw the shutters open. The shutters were carefully balanced so that they would
swing freely and ‘rebound’ into the closed position.
Unfortunately, the very metal that provided
valuable protection to soldiers under fire proved
devastating to the fort itself. In a salt-water
environment, the wraught-iron quickly began to
rust and expand. As the iron rusted, it pushed
the brick apart, causing serious structural damage to Fort Jefferson’s walls. A walk around
the moat shows where large sections of the
fort walls have collapsed into the moat. This is
largely caused by the rusting shutter system.
The founding legislation of Dry Tortugas
National Park mandates the National Park
Service to “protect, stabilize, restore, and
interpret Fort Jefferson, an outstanding
example of nineteenth century masonry
fortification” for future generations. Without
undertaking serious action to stop further
degradation, it became obvious to National
Park Service personnel that the walls of Fort
Jefferson were in serious trouble.
Original Bronze Strike Plate
Preservation Solutions
Dry Tortugas National Park has initiated a multiphased, multi-year preservation project to stabilize Fort Jefferson. The scope of this project is to
carefully remove the existing brick surrounding
the embrasure (cannon) openings on the lower
level in order to gain access to the original iron
elements. When possible,original bricks will be
cleaned and set aside for reuse.
Next, crews will remove all of the rusted iron
elements from the original Totten shutters and
stabilize the exterior walls of Fort Jefferson by
rebuilding the scarp (fort) wall. Concrete made
of local sand and coral - just as used in the
original construction - historic bricks salvaged
during demolition and new replacement bricks
are being used to preserve the historic appearance of the walls. In addition, the parapet and
upper tier embrasure openings will be stabilized
through selective brick replacements and repointing of the mortar joints.
The last step is to restore the Totten shutters “in
kind” per the Secretary of the Interior’s Standards for the Treatment of Historic Properties.
A good example of the “finished product” can
be seen on a walk about halfway around the
moat, where the wall has been restored and the
replica Totten shutters have been installed.
The current phase of the project is concentrated on stabilizing seven embrasures located
on Front 3 and has a target completion date of
July, 2014. In 2013, a contract for this work was
awarded to Stone and Lime Imports, of Brookfield, MA. The demolition and stabilization
work you are witnessing today is being carried
out by skilled masons from Stone and Lime
Imports, Inc.
Pre-Treatment
Working and Living at
Fort Jefferson
Housed within the walls of Fort Jefferson, the
masonry crew of ten to twelve workers per shift
more than doubles the current population of
full-time NPS employee residents. Masons are
on site three weeks and then are off island for a
week. While not on the island, contractors will
most likely return to their families and friends at
home in the Northeast.
Post-Treatment
else the preservationists like to relax when the
day is over by snorkeling, fishing, kayaking,
reading, or even watching TV.
Masons are working full days from early in the
morning until the evening. One added amenity
that Stone and Lime Inc. has budgeted into their
time here is a chef. The chef lives with the crew
members and prepares three meals a day as well
as snacks and refreshments. Additionally, the
chef maintains the quarters in a clean and orderly way, so the masons can focus on their jobs
and not have to spend their down time doing
other work.
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
P.O. Box 6208
Key West, FL 33041
Totten Shutters
Construction of Fort Jefferson began in 1846 and continued through the Civil War
until the 1870’s. Fort Jefferson is part of the Third System of seacoast fortifications
defined by systematic and refined casemate details. One of the most important
features of Fort Jefferson is the original iron Totten Shutters; a uniquely designed
and highly engineered defense feature. Ultimately the Totten Shutter became the
first time that armor became a standard element of harbor defenses as a result of
extensive experimentation and exhaustive study by one man; Joseph G. Totten
Joseph G. Totten and
the Totten Shutters
Joseph G. Totten was born in New Haven, CT in
1788 and lived until 1864. Joseph Totten attended
the United States Military Academy and then
joined the Corps of Engineers in 1805. Although
the nation had been constructing fortifications
for most of its history it wasn’t until 1816 that
a group of engineers were organized to direct
and standardize the locations, design, and
construction of defensive fortifications. Brevet
Lieutenant Colonel Joseph G. Totten became one
of these engineers on what was referred to as
the Bernard Board, named after Simon Bernard,
a French military engineer that served under
Napoleon.
In 1838 Totten became the Army’s Chief Engineer,
a position he held until his death in 1864. As
Chief Engineer most of Totten’s career was spent
studying the use of lime mortars and natural
cement as well as experimenting with ways to
improve the defense of and stability of the gun
casemates of the third system forts. Ultimately his
experiments decreased the size of the openings
General Joseph G. Totten; August 23, 1788 – April 22, 1864
Project History
and simultaneously allowed the guns to swivel on
a 60 degree angle laterally providing an optimal
firing range. Additionally, he developed a shutter
system that instantly opened upon firing of a
projectile and then immediately slammed shut
which protected the guns and personnel from
return fire while they prepared the next round
of ammunition. This incredible engineering
innovation is referred to as the Totten Shutter.
The basic elements that make up a Totten Shutter
assembly consist of exterior and interior elements
and the swinging doors. On the exterior face of
the scarp wall an iron breast plate frames the
opening, while a header, sill, and side jambs
frame the exterior side of the smaller opening.
It is here that the two shutter doors are hinged
to fly open when a projectile is fired and then
shut immediately. Finally, armor blocks line the
interior throat of the opening.
Look for the original Totten Shutter elements
around the lower tier embrasure openings as you
move around Fort Jefferson and see if you can
identify the original elements.
As part of the Dry Tortugas National Park
enabling legislation it is our duty to protect,
stabilize, restore, and interpret Fort Jefferson, an
outstanding example of 19th Century masonry
fortification.
All treatment is done within The Secretary of the
Interior’s Standards for the Treatment of Historic
Properties.
Due to the extreme marine environment at the
Dry Tortugas the original iron Totten Shutters have
severely rusted and expanded which in turn has
created severe delamination of the brick from the
scarp wall and loss of original historic material.
Dry Tortugas National Park has initiated a
multi-phased, multi-year preservation project to
stabilize Fort Jefferson. The scope of this project
is to remove all of the rusted iron elements
of the original Totten Shutter assemblies and
stabilize the exterior walls of Fort Jefferson.
This is completed by rebuilding the embrasures
with replicated shutter components made from
cast Portland cement and lime and combining
original salvaged historic brick and new brick
to rebuild sections of collapsed masonry and
repointing joints with American Natural Cement.
Work in Progress
Currently the work you see being done today is a
continuation of the on-going stabilization project.
The original iron work is being completely
removed from embrasures on Front 3 and the
exterior scarp wall is being stabilized with new
mortar made of the same materials used in the
1800’s . Additionally, the embrasure openings on
the first level are being reconstructed and the
parapet and 2nd tier openings are being stabilized
with selective brick replacement and repointing.
Original iron Totten Shutter assembly embedded
within the scarp wall
On site today you will witness tradesman
installing new replicated Totten Shutter pieces
such as the armor blocks, headers and sills. They
are also repointing unreconstructed sections of
the scarp wall.
This work has already been completed on various
fronts since the 1990’s to various degrees. Look
for older phases of work and see if you can
identify rebuilt sections of the scarp compared to
the original
Dry Tortugas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Dry Tortugas National Park
The Underground Railroad at Fort Jefferson
Shortly after midnight on July 10, 1847, seven enslaved African Americans fled Garden Key.
Over the lengthy construction of Fort Jefferson, large numbers of enslaved workers were
employed by the Army. The conditions were harsh, and the hopes of escape virtually nonexistent. Freedom seekers faced incredible odds. Surrounded by miles of open sea and
treacherous reefs, perhaps no area in North America presented greater challenges to selfemancipation. Undaunted by these long odds, seven men set out to do the impossible.
Underground Railroad
Network to Freedom
The National Underground Railroad Network
to Freedom Program recognizes important
efforts of enslaved African Americans to gain
their freedom by escaping bondage. The
Network to Freedom Program celebrates the
heroism of freedom seekers, and acknowledges
the people of all races who risked everything to
make these dreams come true. Together, they
endured the unendurable; together, they helped
to change the future.
The courageous efforts of the seven men who
fled from bondage at Fort Jefferson were
honored by the National Underground
Railroad Network to Freedom Program. Their
attempt offers proof that wherever slavery
existed, even at the most remote military
outposts, the thirst for freedom could not be
quenched. Because of this dramatic 1847
self-emancipation attempt, Fort Jefferson is a
proud member of the program.
Fort Construction
Built to protect the strategic Tortugas
Anchorage, Fort Jefferson was a vital link in a
chain of coastal forts that stretched from Maine
to California. One of the largest coastal forts
ever built, Fort Jefferson also ranked as one of
the most remote. Its builders faced numerous
hardships, including storms, shifting sands, and
disease. The remote location often hampered
the shipment of supplies and workers.
they offloaded arriving ships. Ultimately, 16
million bricks were used in the fort’s
construction. Perhaps their most arduous task
was collecting and transporting large quantities
of coral rock from nearby islands. This coral
material served as the main ingredient in
forming coral concrete, a vital component in the
fort’s construction. Several of the enslaved men
were permitted to bring their wives with them.
These women often served as cooks and
laundresses.
Enslaved African Americans played a key role
in the construction of Fort Jefferson. Typically
20% of the workforce was comprised of African
Americans, hired from owners in Key West.
Owners were normally paid $20 per month per
slave, with the Federal government agreeing
to provide food, shelter and medical attention
for the slave workforce. One of these owners
was Stephen Mallory, a U.S. Senator and future
Confederate Secretary of the Navy.
Enslaved African Americans were responsible
for some of the most difficult tasks at Fort
Jefferson. They labored ten hours a day, six days
a week. Using little more than wheelbarrows
More than a dozen Federal fortifications along
the Gulf Coast and South Atlantic employed
slave labor. An estimated 687 enslaved laborers
were employed by the U.S. Army Corps of
Engineers on these projects. Florida slave
owners were assured that they would be given
preference for the Fort Jefferson project.
Anticipating profitable contracts with the
government, local owners rushed to purchase
additional enslaved workers. The work force at
the fort reached its highest point in December
1857, with a total of 299 workers, including 58
enslaved peoples.
The Escape
Early on July 10, 1847, under the cover of
darkness, seven freedom seekers named Jerry,
Jack, John, George, Ephraim, Howard and
Robert fled Garden Key. They took with them
every vessel that could float, a brilliant move
that greatly reduced the risk of being pursued
and captured. Without being detected the seven
men removed the schooners Union, Virginia,
and Activa, and a small boat belonging to the
Garden Key lighthouse keeper.
smashing their hulls. Their escape went
completely undetected until daylight when the
boats and enslaved workers were reported
missing. Minutes later the Union was spotted
from the Garden Key Lighthouse. By 7:00 AM,
the freedom seekers had traveled fifteen miles,
and were spotted three miles west of
Loggerhead Key heading south.
Garden Key Lighthouse, c.1867
(NPS, DRTO 300889)
Soon after fleeing Garden Key and entering the
Loggerhead Channel, they disabled and
abandoned the Virginia, the Activa, and the
lighthouse keeper’s boat by cutting and
The Pursuit
The Capture
Freedom at Last
With Lieutenant H.G. Wright away on
business in Key West, Dr. Daniel W. Whitehurst,
his second in command, organized the pursuit.
Because of the freedom seekers’ thoroughness,
only one old condemned vessel, the Victor,
remained near the island. Work on refastening
and caulking the Victor began immediately, and
within two hours the vessel was rep
National Parks of South Florida
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Biscayne, Dry Tortugas and Everglades National Parks
Big Cypress National Preserve
Trip Planner
The official guide for planning your trip to
National Park areas in South Florida.
Photo Courtesy of Ralph Arwood
Photo Courtesy of Don Richards
Big Cypress
Biscayne
Dry Tortugas
Planning a Trip?
A visit to South Florida’s national parks and preserves can be an experience
you won’t soon forget. Biscayne, Dry Tortugas, and Everglades National
Parks, and Big Cypress National Preserve offer opportunities ranging from
snorkeling to wildlife photography to camping on a backcountry chickee.
Planning ahead is the best way to take advantage of these opportunities,
and choosing what time of year to visit, based on your interests, can be the
key to an enjoyable trip.
Rainy Season
Dry Season
During the rainy season warmer, clear ocean
waters make snorkeling in Biscayne and Dry
Tortugas the perfect way to explore these
parks. Boating and canoeing in open waters
helps to avoid mosquitoes. Boat tours out of
Biscayne National Park and the Gulf Coast
and Flamingo areas of Everglades National
Park are another way to stay cool.
While some birds are drawn to the parks
year round, the abundance of migrating
and wintering birds makes South Florida’s
National Parks a birder’s paradise during
the dry season. Falling water levels within
the Everglades and Big Cypress areas result
in abundant wildlife concentrated in ponds
and canals, providing excellent viewing
opportunities.
Seasonal rains bring higher water levels
within Everglades and Big Cypress, causing
wildlife such as alligators and wading birds
to disperse and to be seen less frequently.
Mosquito levels may become high, and
exploring trails in some areas of the parks
can become intolerable.
While visiting during this season you may
find daily afternoon thunderstorms, high
humidity, temperatures in the mid- to hi-80s
and a multitude of mosquitoes. During this
time of year you will also find an array of
blooming plants, views of towering storm
clouds and opportunities to experience
the parks with fewer visitors. Remember,
during the rainy season mosquitoes may be
unbearable in some areas.
The dry season is the busy season in South
Florida’s national parks. Most visitors to
Big Cypress, Biscayne, and the Everglades
come between December and March.
March through May are busy months at Dry
Tortugas National Park. During months of
higher visitation lodging reservations are
recommended and campgrounds may be
busy.
Larger crowds, fewer mosquitoes, greater
wildlife viewing opportunities and more
enjoyable hiking, camping and canoeing
adventures in all the parks characterize
this time of year. Finally, the parks offer a
greater variety and number of ranger-led
activities that provide an in-depth look into
the special natural and cultural resources
protected within them.
Everglades
Printed Winter 2007 – 08
Mont
Avera
Minim ge
Avera
Temp um
ge
M
eratu
re Te aximum
mper
ature
h
Nove
m
throu ber
gh Ap
ril
May t
h
Octob rough
er
66°F/1
9
°C
76°F/2
4°C
Annu
al
71°F/2
2°C
Dry S
Humid
ity
Avera
Mont ge
h
Rainf ly
all
eason
76°F/2
4°C
Rainy
85°F/2
9°C
81°F/2
7°C
57%
Seaso
2.17”
/5.5cm
n
64%
5.39”
/13.3c
m
45.44
”/115
.4
cm
What’s Inside?
Planning Your Trip . . . 2
Everglades National Park . . . 6
Park Activities . . . 2
Dry Tortugas National Park . . . 7
Safety in the Parks . . . 3
Mail Order Publications . . . 7
Big Cypress National Preserve . . . 4
Parks Map . . . Back Cover
Biscayne National Park . . . 5
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Everglades National Park
40001 State Road 9336
Homestead, Florida 33034
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Planning your trip
Frequently Asked Questions
The National Park Service, an agency
of the Department of the Interior, was
established in 1916 to manage a growing
system of national parks. Today, the
National Park System consists of over 390
units. National Parks, National Preserves,
Seashores, Monuments, Historic Sites,
Lakeshores, Battlefields, and others make
up a great repository of national treasures
entrusted to the National Park Service.
In South Florida, nearly 2.5 million acres
of pineland, prairie, tropical hardwoods,
mangrove forests, estuaries and coral
reefs are preserved for this and future
generations. Their scientific, recreational,
aesthetic and educational values are
limitless.
Experience Your America
National Parks of South Florida Trip
Planner is published as a service to park
visitors through a generous donation by
the Everglades Association.
Are there entrance fees?
No entrance fees are charged at Big Cypress
National Preserve or Biscayne National Park.
For cars, vans, and motorhomes, Everglades
National Park charges a $10.00 fee at the
Homestead and Shark Valley Entrances. Fees
vary for buses (call 305-242-7700 for details).
Bicyclists and people on foot pay $