"Big Hole National Battlefield" by NPS / Victoria Stauffenberg , public domain
Big Hole
National Battlefield - Montana
Big Hole National Battlefield preserves a Nez Perce War battlefield located in Montana, United States. The Nez Perce fought a delaying action against the 7th Infantry Regiment (United States) here on August 9 and 10, 1877, during their failed attempt to escape to Canada. This action, the Battle of the Big Hole, was the largest battle fought between the Nez Perce and U.S. Government forces in the five-month conflict known as the Nez Perce War.
Big Hole National Battlefield is located 10 miles (16 km) west of Wisdom, Montana on Montana state highway 43. A year-round visitor center is located in the park.
Official Visitor Map of Nez Perce National Historical Park (NHP) in Idaho, Montana, Oregon and Washington. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Official visitor map of Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail (NHT) in Idaho, Illinois, Iowa, Kansas, Missouri, Montana, Nebraska, North Dakota, Oregon, South Dakota and Washington. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
Map of the Nez Perce War for Big Hole National Battlefield (NB) in Montana. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
https://www.nps.gov/biho/index.htm
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Big_Hole_National_Battlefield
Big Hole National Battlefield preserves a Nez Perce War battlefield located in Montana, United States. The Nez Perce fought a delaying action against the 7th Infantry Regiment (United States) here on August 9 and 10, 1877, during their failed attempt to escape to Canada. This action, the Battle of the Big Hole, was the largest battle fought between the Nez Perce and U.S. Government forces in the five-month conflict known as the Nez Perce War.
Big Hole National Battlefield is located 10 miles (16 km) west of Wisdom, Montana on Montana state highway 43. A year-round visitor center is located in the park.
On August 9, 1877, gun shots shattered a chilly dawn on a sleeping camp of Nez Perce. By the time the smoke cleared on August 10, almost 90 Nez Perce were dead along with 31 soldiers and volunteers. Big Hole National Battlefield was created to honor all who were there.
Big Hole National Battlefield is located on Highway 43 ten miles west of the town of Wisdom in southwestern Montana. Bear Paw Battlefield is located on Route 240 sixteen miles south of the town of Chinook in north-central Montana.
Visitor Center at the Big Hole National Battlefield
The park's visitor center offers museum exhibits, a film, and a book sales area. The award-winning film Weet'uciklitukt: There's No Turning Back, Battle at Big Hole provides an introduction to the Nez Perce Flight of 1877 and the battle that took place at this site. The film is shown throughout the day and is close-captioned. Audio and braille guides are available upon request. Park grounds are open sunrise to sunset daily.
The Big Hole National Battlefield and its visitor center are located on Highway 43 ten miles west of the town of Wisdom in southwestern Montana.
Battlefield at Dawn
Multiple tepee poles and a river are silhouetted against a dawn sky.
Today tepee poles stand sentinel at the site of August 9th, 1877 dawn attack at the Big Hole.
Camas Blooms Near the Nez Perce Camp at the Big Hole
Blue camas flowers dot a green field with tepee poles in the background.
The Nez Perce chose their camp site in the Big Hole in part due to the Camas, whose roots they gathered prior to the August 9th attack.
Mountain Howitzer at the Big Hole Battlefield
a cannon overlooks a valley and distant mountains
Nez Perce warriors captured and dismantled the Mountain Howitzer cannon before the US army could use it effectively at the Battle of the Big Hole.
Monument to the US Soldiers and Volunteers at the Big Hole Battlefield
cross country skis rest against a large granite monument on a snowy day.
In 1883 the United States Government erected this monument in honor of the soldiers and volunteers that served and died at the 1877 Battle of the Big Hole.
Chief Joseph Memorial at the Big Hole Battlefield
Stone carving of a Nez Perce Warrior's head in full regalia.
This monument, erected on the Big Hole Battlefield in 1928, reads; "To the everlasting memory of the brave warriors Chief Joseph's Band who fought on these grounds in the Nez Perce War of 1877."
Bear Paw Battlefield
Three large stone monuments and four interpretive signs overlook a series of low hills.
Spotted Knapweed on the Decline in Big Hole National Battlefield
The dedicated efforts of National Park Service staff and the Northern Rocky Mountain Exotic Plant Management Team (EPMT) at Big Hole National Battlefield has resulted in the decline of an invasive plant that threatens park natural and cultural resources: the spotted knapweed.
Jason Lyon sprays knapweed in Big Hole NHP.
Prescribed Fire Maintains Cultural Landscape, Sensitive Plant at Big Hole National Battlefield
The goal of a September 2014 prescribed fire at Big Hole National Battlefield, Montana, was to mimic the historic role of fire on the mountain slope while improving the vigor of the native vegetation. The area contains one of the larger remaining populations of Lehmi penstemon. A cooperative effort set up research plots to observe fire effects on this rare wildflower. Parts of the area will be burned in successive years, with yearly monitoring.
Smoke rising from area at the foot of a forested slope.
Summer Speaker Series Shares Cultural Wisdom
Gwen Carter shows visitors a tukes (digging stick) during her August 3, 2019 talk on Traditional Nez Perce Food Gathering.
A Nez Perce elder holding a tukes (digging stick).
NPS Geodiversity Atlas—Big Hole National Battlefield, Montana
Each park-specific page in the NPS Geodiversity Atlas provides basic information on the significant geologic features and processes occurring in the park.
tepee and mountains
Prescribed Fire in Big Hole National Battlefield
In 2014 the first of four planned small-acreage prescribed fires was completed on Big Hole National Battlefield’s Howitzer Hill. The site’s burn plan seeks to sequentially burn individual “blocks” of land on the Howitzer Hill and the adjacent Horse Pasture slope to maintain the open look and feel of the steppe vegetation similar to conditions at the time of the 1877 battle.
Firefighter uses a “drip torch” to ignite dry vegetation on a hillside
Catch and Release Fishing
Sport fishing is a popular activity in national park sites throughout the country. Proper catch and release fishing methods increase the chances of survival for the fish you choose not to keep.
Photo of a man fishing in a lake surrounded by forests and tall, rocky mountains.
Wildland Fire in Ponderosa Pine: Western United States
This forest community generally exists in areas with annual rainfall of 25 inches or less. Extensive pure stands of this forest type are found in the southwestern U.S., central Washington and Oregon, southern Idaho and the Black Hills of South Dakota.
Recently burned ponderosa pine forest.
Big Hole National Battlefield Site Cultural Landscape
Big Hole National Battlefield was the site of a battle on August 9-10, 1877 between U.S. Army forces and the Nez Perce people. It was part of a five-month conflict as the army tried to force the Nez Perce onto an Idaho reservation. The Battle of the Big Hole was a critical event in the war. Although it was a tactical victory for the Nez Perce, the significant losses they suffered ultimately led to their defeat two months later.
Sun-bleached wooden posts mark the site of an encampment along a willow-flanked river.
Scientist Profile: Tom Rodhouse, Ecologist and Project Manager
Meet Tom Rodhouse, ecologist for the Upper Columbia Basin Network. Tom studies the plants and animals of our National Parks, and believes we have an important role to play in protecting these special places. Read about his adventures as a field wildlife biologist, and how he got to be where he is today.
Biologist smiles by sweeping view of green fields, conifer treetops, and snow-capped mountains.
Wildland Fire in Lodgepole Pine
The bark of lodgepoles is thin, which does not protect the trunks from scorching by fire. They die easily when a fire passes through. However, the serotinous cones give lodgepole pine a special advantage for spreading seeds for the next generation.
Close-up of the needles of a lodgepole pine.
Changing Patterns of Water Availability May Change Vegetation Composition in US National Parks
Across the US, changes in water availability are altering which plants grow where. These changes are evident at a broad scale. But not all areas experience the same climate in the same way, even within the boundaries of a single national park. A new dataset gives park managers a valuable tool for understanding why vegetation has changed and how it might change in the future under different climate-change scenarios.
Green, orange, and dead grey junipers in red soil, mountains in background
Nez Perce Women and the War of 1877
In the face of tremendous loss and suffering, Nez Perce women demonstrated resilience during the Nez Perce War of 1877. After the Battle of Big Hole, as the Nez Perce fled their homes and embarked on the Lolo Trail to reach the reservation in Montana, it was the women of the tribe who kept their people strong.
Indigenous woman in dress and headband stands with arms around an older seated woman and young child
Series: Women's History in the Pacific West - Columbia-Pacific Northwest Collection
Biographies of women from parks in Washington, Oregon Idaho and far western Montana
Map of Washington, Oregon and Idaho
NPS Establishes NPSage Initiative to Restore Sagebrush-Steppe Ecosystems
Artemisia species, commonly known as sagebrush, are far from being the only species on the landscape. The sagebrush biome is composed of a rich mosaic of thousands of diverse plant species, which are largely driven by differences in climate, soil and elevation. These distinct sagebrush plant and animal communities occur in approximately 70 park units across the western U.S— all of which are experiencing significant threats from wildfire and droughts.
Two NPS staff knealing next to plants growing in a nursery
Updated Species Database Will Help Boost Amphibian Conservation Across the National Park Service
To steward amphibians effectively, managers need basic information about which species live in parks. But species lists need constant maintenance to remain accurate. Due to recent efforts, the National Park Service now has an up-to-date amphibian species checklist for almost 300 parks. This information can serve as the basis for innumerable conservation efforts across the nation.
A toad sits on red sand, looking into the camera.
“Death of Wahlitits and His Wife”
At dawn on August 9, 1877, U.S. troops attacked the Nez Perce camped at Big Hole on their way toward asylum in Canada, brutally killing many women and children. When a soldier killed the warrior Wahlitits, his wife picked up his rifle and killed the soldier before being fatally shot herself. To hear this nameless woman’s story is to sit with the hard truth that the dispossession of Indigenous homelands lies at the very center of the American story.
Oil painting of woman with rifle sitting in field next to dead man.
Series: Home and Homelands Exhibition: Loss
What does it mean to lose a home or homeland? What are the consequences? The story of the Pacific West is of competing visions of home, and the women who built and sustained the dreams held by their communities. The stories in this thread touch upon many of the darker moments in American history, including colonialism, forced removal, incarceration, war, and death. They show women bravely fought back at the cost of their own lives. Some had no choice but to endure.
Thick white paper peeled back to reveal collage of women. Reads
Retracing Fighters’ Steps at the Battle of the Big Hole
In 1846, the US and Great Britain ended their dispute over what was then known as Oregon country. Settlers began pouring into the newly created Oregon Territory and Washington with little regard for the Native American communities already living there. Deadly encounters ensued. Archeological research at Big Hole illuminates the decisions, actions, and reactions of the two forces that culminated in the nimíipuu’s bittersweet victory.
Two men examine the ground
Staff Spotlight: Sarah Sherwood
Meet Sarah Sherwood, Park Guide at White Sands National Park, and learn about her career journey from internships to permanent positions!
A female ranger in uniform standing at a cave entrance.
Big Hole
Big Hole National Battlefield
Montana
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
When xíst (Sharon Redthunder) brought her
˙
grandson here, she told him,
Grandson, I want you to know that you’re
an Indian person. Where you came from. . . .
I want you to be aware of what our people
suffered.
THE PEOPLE
CONFLICTS ARISE
The Nez Perce, whose story is told at Big Hole
National Battlefield, call themselves nımí.pu.
As European Americans began encroaching
up and denied liberty to go where he
the reservation or be put there by force.
on nımí.pu. homeland, conflicts began to
pleases,” said hınmató.wyalahtqıt (Young
The nımí.pu. began the arduous task of
or The People. “We have been here since time
˛
immemorial,” says wé.yux tí.menın (Allen Slickpoo,
occur. The US government proposed a
Joseph), headman of one of these bands.
gathering all of their belongings, including
treaty in 1855: The nımí.pu. would give up
“I have asked some of the great white
livestock. They lost much during the jour-
Jr.). “Our legends go back 9,000 years. . . . We
didn’t start with Lewis and Clark.” The nımí.pu.
over half their homeland for European-
chiefs where they get their authority to
ney. Before they could reach their destina-
American settlement but keep the right to
say to the Indian that he shall stay in one
tion, fighting broke out.
met these explorers in 1805. At that time,
˛
tustımasatalpá.ma (Vera Sonneck) explains, “We
hunt, fish, and gather on those lands.
place, while he sees white men going
were one of the biggest tribes in the US. We had
Five years later, gold was discovered on
˛
where they please. They cannot tell me.”
13 million acres of aboriginal lands. We were in
what is now Idaho, Montana, Oregon, Washington,
and Canada.“ During the next 70 years, they would
CHAOS AT DAWN (Above) As their families
flee for their lives, nımí.pu. warriors fight back
during the military‘s surprise attack.
lose most of their homeland to European Americans. (See map on other side.)
REMEMBERING THE DEAD (Left) hú.sus ? ewyí.n
(Wounded Head) carved a dot in his drinking
horn for each person he found dead at Big Hole,
including his two-year-old daughter.
ILLUSTRATION—NPS / NAKIA WILLIAMSON CLOUD
BUFFALO HORN—NPS / WASHINGTON STATE UNIVERSITY
?ıslá.mc (Horace Axtell) learned from his
ancestors what happened next: “Settlers
nımí.pu. land. This led to the 1863 treaty
Descendants from his band reflect today:
killed one of our young boy’s father. The
that decreased nımí.pu. lands by another
90 percent. Five bands of nımí.pu., which
“Treaties divided and scattered us, both
boys took revenge and killed some set-
physically and spiritually. They threatened
tlers, and that started the whole thing.
included their allies the pelú.cpu (Palouse)
and the weyí.letpu. (Cayuse), refused the
to sever our spiritual connection with
It was OK for the settlers to kill us, but
the land and fostered the division of our
not the other way around.”
second treaty. They would later become
people into Christian and non-Christian,
known as the non-treaty Nez Perce.
treaty and non-treaty, and finally, tribe
And so started a chain of events that led
and non-tribe.”
to numerous battles during a four-month
“You might as well expect the rivers to run
flight of over 1,000 miles. Some call this
backwards as that any man who was born
By 1877, the US government gave the
a free man should be contented penned
non-treaty nımí.pu. 30 days to move onto
the “Nez Perce War.”
August 9, 1877: The Battle of Big Hole
My shaking heart tells me trouble and death will
overtake us if we make no hurry through this land!
I cannot smother, I cannot hide that which I see. I
must speak what is revealed to me. Let us begone to
the buffalo country!
North Fork of the Big Hole River
—pıyó.pıyo ?ıpcıwá.tx. (Lone Bird)
By early August, over 800 nımí.pu. (consisting mostly of
family groups and only about 200 warriors) and over
2000 horses were passing peacefully through the Bitterroot Valley of Montana. Their leaders believed the military would not pursue them even though many had
premonitions warning otherwise. The group arrived at
?ıckumcılé.lıkpe (known today as Big Hole National
Battlefield) on August 7. They did not know the military
was close behind them. On August 8th, while the nımí.pu.
were gathering supplies in the area, military scouts were
observing their camp.
1
hímı.n maqsmáqs (Yellow Wolf) described that night:
“The warriors paraded about camp, singing, all making a
good time. It was the first since war started. Everyone
with good feeling. Going to buffalo country! . . . War
was quit. All Montana citizens our friends.” Meanwhile
Colonel John Gibbon reported “All laid down to rest
until eleven o’clock. At that hour the command . . . of 17
officers, 132 men and 34 citizens, started down the trail
NPS / JOHN W. HAMMOND
on foot, each man being provided with 90 rounds of
ammunition. The howitzer [cannon] co
N
A I
N T
U
M O
L E
B A T T
Twin trees
nımí.pu. horses were
pastured on this slope
5
4
National
-Poo)
Nez Perce (Nee-M e
ail
ric Tr
Histo
Warriors besiege
soldiers
Overlook
Big
ork
N. F
Warriors capture
army howitzer
Monument
Siege
Area
Trail
As the siege continues,
surviving nımí·pu· families
break camp and flee
2
er
Riv US military attacks
le
o
H
Tipis
1
3
nımí·pu· Camp
6
Nez Pe
rce (Nee
-M
Nation
al Histo e-Poo)
ric Trai
l
Warriors drive
US military back
across the river
Nez
Camp Trail
Perce
Trail Creek
Visitor Center
Creek
Ruby
To Chief Joseph Pass and 93
16mi / 26km
Scale varies in
this perspective.
Road
Parking
Trailhead
Trail
Picnic area
Restrooms
43
To Wisdom
10mi / 16km
Fort Walsh
C A N A D A
Wood
Mountain
To Umatilla
Reservation
Sitting Bull’s
Camp
To Nez Perce
Reservation
Frenchmans
Creek
cape
White Bird’s Es
M ilk
Cree Crossing
Battle of Bear Paw
September 30–October 5
COLVILLE
RESERVATION
Cow Island Landing
Fort Benton
Tolo Lake
June 2–14
Z
W
HO
RG
IS
Tongue River Cantonment
Sturgis departs August 12
Miles departs September 18
Battle of
Canyon Creek
September 13
Big
ho
RD
WA
HO
RA
STURGIS
W Y O M I N G
E
Battle of Camas Meadows
NG
August 15
A
D
Birch Creek
Little Bighorn
Battlefield
1876
rn
YELLOWSTONE
NATIONAL PARK
I D A H O
OK
e
AR
Targhee Pass
Clarks Fork
Yellowstone
AR
W
Bannack
Pass
BS
ang
in R
Bannack
H
M AT E N E Z P
E R C E HOMELAND
A
llat
S al m
on
O
APPROXI
TU
August 9–10
June 17
A P P R O X I M AT E 1 8 5 5
T R E AT Y B O U N DARY
O R E G O N
NE
Battle of the Big Hole
S
ll
lshe
S
e
ton
ws
llo
e
Y
Fort
Ellis
Ga
Sna
ke
Battle of
White Bird Canyon
Judith Gap
M O N T A N A
Gibbon
Pass
LE
P L A I N S
UMATILLA
RESERVATION
MI
RD
se
Mus
Madison
July 11–12
A
rk
Battle of
the Clearwater
S
T N
July 4–5
o t Va l l e y
Cottonwood Skirmishes
Camp Baker
C la
rk
Fo
M
Fort Lapwai
HO
Fort Missoula
Lolo Pass
Bitterro
NEZ PERCE
RESERVATION
1863
ON
PE
Y
C K
July 26
D
GIBB
RC
Gibbon departs July 28
Fort Fizzle
R
WA
E RO
UTE
Fort Shaw
To exile
Misso
uri
E A T
G R
R O
W A S H I N G T
O N
September 23
August 20
Sna
ke
Nez Perce
route
US military
routes
North
0
0
50
100 Kilometers
50
100 Miles