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TimucuanSt. Johns Bluff |
St. Johns Bluff: Changing Times, Changing Flags - at Timucuan Ecological & Historic Preserve (EHPRES) in Florida. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
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National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Timucuan
Ecological and Historic Preserve
St. Johns Bluff: Changing Times, Changing Flags
The Timucua and their ancestors lived along the edges of the
St. Johns River and St. Johns Bluff for thousands of years
before the arrival of the Europeans. For thousands of years,
from the first humans to today, the Bluff has provided
residents of this area with sustenance and protection.
Beginning with French settlement during the sixteenth
century and continuing almost to the twentieth, the bluff
played a vital role in the military and political issues of the day,
flying the flags of five nations from its heights during that
history –French, Spanish, English, Confederate and American.
French Arrival
St. Johns Town
The area near St. Johns Bluff was chosen by
the earliest European explorers as an ideal
location to build a fortification. In 1562
Frenchman Jean Ribault arrived at the St.
Johns River and scouted the area for a future
location to build a settlement for French
Huguenots who were fleeing persecution in
Europe. Two years later Rene de
Laudonniere returned to settle; under his
command Fort Caroline was built.
straight to the summit of it, where we
found nothing but cedars, palm trees and
laurels of such a superb odour that balm
was nothing in comparison...As for the
beauty of the place, the sea is plain to be
seen, and more than six leagues around the
Belle River the plains are all cut up into
isles and islets by interlacing streams.”
Laudonniere described the view from the
Bluff in his journal in 1562, and it is a view
which can still be seen today by visiting the
Ribault Column. “I therefore climbed
Fort Caroline was captured by the Spanish
and renamed Fort San Mateo in 1565. The
Spanish maintained the fort only briefly
and for a time the areas around and
including the Bluff went unused by a
European nation.
When Florida came under British control in
1763, citizens from Britain as well as the
colonies were encouraged to move to
northeast Florida. Many loyalists came south
to Florida to escape the American
Revolution. Some received land grants and
started plantations; others were encouraged
to move into the new towns planned by the
government, including that of St. Johns
Town on St. Johns Bluff. Settlers were lured
by such incentives as wharf areas for water
access, greenways and community areas,
views of the beautiful river, and the supposed
health benefits of the sea air. The British also
established a fortified battery on St. Johns
Bluff to defend against American forces
invading East Florida. The population grew
rapidly to 1,500 or more and the town soon
included 300 houses, shops, a doctor and a
clergyman. Poised to become the center for
trade for the plantations along the St. Johns
River, the fortunes of the town shifted
when control of Florida was returned to
Spain in 1784. Most of the former British
residents abandoned the area, the town
was largely dismantled, many homes were
taken by ship to new locations still
controlled by the British such as the
Bahamas, and for the moment the bluff was
left essentially deserted, with only three
families remaining to live as Spanish
subjects.
San Vincente
Ferrer
With the Spanish government once again in
control, it recognized the value of the St.
Johns River for trade and for access to the
interior. Shortly after the new Spanish
governor arrived in 1784, he stationed a
small detachment of troops at St. Johns
Bluff and ordered the establishment of the
battery of San Vicente Ferrer in order to
control the river, monitor boat traffic, and
insure that travelers and traders had the
appropriate authorization. Troops stationed
at the battery and along the river were
charged with finding soldiers that had
deserted, locating runaway slaves and
delivering them to St. Augustine, and
inspecting boats traveling the river. The
battery had a gunboat at its disposal to aid in
investigations.
Plantations on the
Bluff
By the late 1780s, the potential of the bluff
for agricultural development was
recognized. Manuel Romera was given 100
acres where Fort Caroline National
Memorial now stands and Francisco
Estacholy held the fifty acres that surround
the Ribault Column today; he also held the
position of boss of the post office canoes,
which were used for communication up and
down the river. Romera and his slaves
cultivated the area, still at that time called
San Vicente Ferrer, until 1812 when during
The Patriots Rebellion a group of rebels
seized the abandoned Spanish supply depot
located on the bluff. In 1817 Zephaniah
Kingsley, who also owned Fort George
Island and several other area plantations,
purchased both tracts of land and held them
until 1838. Subsequent owners farmed the
land until life was disrupted by the Civil
War; in 1877 the Bluff was confiscated for
missed taxes.
Civil War
In 1861, Florida voted to leave the Union
and join with other Southern states in the
Confederacy. By late 1862, St. John’s Bluff
was occupied by the Confederate Army
under the command of Brigadier General
Joseph Finegan. Guns were positioned atop
hastily erected fortifications in order to
protect access to Jacksonville, 18 miles
upriver.
and began advancing on the rebels, through
the almost impassable swamp-like terrain.
Outflanked, the Confederates atop the bluff
hastily evacuated, leaving their camp fully
intact. While the gunboats waited on the St.
Johns River, Federal soldiers entered the
Confederate camp, removed the guns, razed
the fortifications, and raised the Stars and
Stripes over the bluff. The Federals had
taken the bluff without a fight.
On September 17, acting on a tip from a
runaway slave that the Confederates had
occupied the bluff, six Federal gunboats
under the command of Charles Steedman
assembled at Mayport Mills, approached to
within 600 yards of the bluff, and quickly
opened fire on the fortifications, raining
shot and shell on the fixed positions atop
the bluff for the next five hours. Steedman
soon realized that the rebels could “not be
dislodged except by a combined land and
naval attack.”
On October 1, the Federal gunboat
squadron once again approached the bluff,
while a force of 1500 Federal troops landed
EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA
The abandonment of St. Johns Bluff by the
Confederates opened the way for Federal
gunboats to move up the St. Johns River and
for Federal troops to occupy Jacksonville
for the second time. While Jacksonville
changed hands several more times during
the war, Federal gunboats maintained
control of the St. Johns River and of St.
Johns Bluff for the duration of the war.
Spanish-American
War
With the outbreak of hostilities with Spain
in 1898, Jacksonville residents implored the
federal government for protection, fearing
that Spain would strike first at their city in
retaliation for its active support of the
Cuban revolutionaries against their Spanish
masters.
When the Secretary of War ordered guns
and mines for Jacksonville’s protection, St.
Johns Bluff was chosen as the site for a
battery. The Bluff was cleared and a small
landing wharf constructed; a small railway
track was laid from the boat landing up the
20th Century
Activity on the
Bluff
The City of Jacksonville was originally 18
miles upriver from St. Johns Bluff, but with
its steady growth after the turn of the
century, Jacksonville gradually grew to
encompass the area of St. Johns Bluff within
its city limits. The area of the bluff
developed into a pleasant residential
neighborhood.
During the 1930s and ‘40s, interest began to
grow in establishing a site to commemorate
Jean Ribault’s original establishment of Fort
The Bluff Today
Fort Caroline National Memorial and the
Timucuan National Preserve strive to keep
the long shared history of St. Johns Bluff
alive for all visitors.
Visitors today have the opportunity to visit
St. Johns Bluff to see the re-created Fort
Caroline, the park’s visitor center with its
exhibits exploring the lives of the early
Timucua, and a replica of the stone column
placed by Jean Ribault at the mouth of the
EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA
Bluff and a roadway to the top was built. By
the time the United States officially declared
war on April 25, 1898, the gun emplacements
were nearly ready.
The river was mined for extra protection
and an army camp (nicknamed “Camp Cuba
Libra”) was located in Jacksonville. As it
turned out, the area saw no military action
and the Bluff never participated in a
skirmish. On August 12, 1898 the peace
protocol was signed. The mines in the river
were ordered removed, although work on a
permanent gun emplacement continued.
Two eight-inch guns were subsequently
mounted, although they were never fired
and troops were never stationed at the
battery. The six buildings originally used for
storage and dwellings were all demolished
by 1900. Eventually, the temporary wooden
structures were taken down for use as spare
building materials elsewhere, leaving only
the cement gun emplacement.
Caroline and of a colony for religious
freedom. On September 21, 1950,
authorization for the establishment of Fort
Caroline National Memorial was approved
by Congress and signed by President
Truman, to be situated on undeveloped
land that had originally been designated as
the St. Johns Bluff Military Reservation
during the Spanish-American War. The
park initially opened on a part-time basis in
1957.
St. Johns River in 1562, as well as to explore
the marsh and woodlands of the bluff at the
Theodore Roosevelt Area.
Fort Caroline National Memorial is a unit
of Timucuan Ecological and Historic
Preserve and is located 13 miles east of
downtown Jacksonville, on Fort Caroline
Road.