Theodore Roosevelt

Theodore Roosevelt Theodore Roosevelt National Park North Dakota National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior I have always said I never would have been President if it had not been for my experiences in North Dakota. —Theodore Roosevelt, 1918 Theodore Roosevelt first came to the Dakota Territory in 1883 to hunt bison. A year later, devastated by personal tragedy, he returned to grieve and lose himself in the vastness. He became a cattle rancher and, in this broken land, found adventure, purpose, wholeness. Though his ranch ultimately failed, his love for the rugged beauty of the land brought him back time and again for the rest of his life. Roosevelt credited his Dakota experiences as the basis for his groundbreaking preservation efforts and the shaping of his own character. As president 1901–09, he translated his love of nature into law. He established the US Forest Service and signed the 1906 Antiquities Act, under which he proclaimed 18 national monuments. He worked with Congress to create five national parks, 150 national forests, and dozens of federal reserves—over 230 million acres of protected land. View from River Bend Overlook, North Unit. Bentonite, a fine-grained, blue-gray clay, defines the badlands’ landscape. The dark band is a lignite coal seam. NPS / MARK MEYERS The Rugged Beauty of the Northern Plains Theodore Roosevelt National Park was not the great man’s own creation. It was established in 1947 as a national memorial park to honor President Roosevelt and to provide a place for us to experience his beloved Badlands in our own ways. My home ranch lies on both sides of the Little Missouri, Badger Maltese Cross Cabin Feral horses Cannonball formation Bull elk NPS / CHAD ALLMENDINGER NPS / CHAD ALLMENDINGER NPS / CHERIE ROSHAU NIKKI LONG NPS / CHAD ALLMENDINGER Over thousands of years, the Little Missouri River and its tributaries have cut through the soft sedimentary layers of the northern Great Plains. Flowing water—along with wind, ice, and plants—continue their erosive action. You can see land in transition throughout the park. the nearest ranch man above me being about twelve, and the nearest below me about ten, miles distant. —Theodore Roosevelt, 1887 Theodore Roosevelt, 1885 HOUGHTON LIBRARY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY Are the Badlands really bad? For human travel- ers and farmers, perhaps. But bison and elk thrive with a choice of edible grasses—blue grama, western wheatgrass, buffalo grass, little bluestem, and needle-andthread. Spring rains renew the grasslands and bring wildflowers’ bright profusion. Prickly pear cactus delights hikers who might not think its habitat extends this far north. of healing and solitude. He started a second ranch, the Elkhorn. Roosevelt considered the Elkhorn his ”home ranch” and spent most of his time here when in the Dakotas. Energy development surrounds the park. Roundthe-clock drilling, pumping, and hauling oil and natural gas from the Bakken Shale formation takes place outside the park boundary. Roosevelt became a respected member of the ranching community. Today, this regional culture continues along with another commercial boom. The Badlands have never been an easy place to make a living. How will we meet today’s challenge of balancing nature and human needs? Woody draws have stands of Rocky Mountain junipers, while the Little Missouri floodplain supports dense growths of cottonwoods and other shrubs. White-tailed deer forage in the river woodlands, while mule deer prefer broken country and uplands. Horses descended from ranch stock roam in the South Unit, as in Roosevelt’s time. Prairie dogs, long a staple food source for many predators, live in “towns” in the grasslands. At home here, too, are nearly 200 bird species, many of them songbirds. one of his major concerns. He would surely be gratified to know that through careful management, many animals that nearly became extinct are once again living here. In the 1880s, Roosevelt witnessed overhunting, overgrazing, and other threats to the natural world. Conservation increasingly became The bison is one such success story. They roamed the plains by the millions until the 1800s, when wholesale slaughter diminished their numbers to a few hundred. In 1956 a small herd was reintroduced here and has grown to the point where it has to be carefully managed. Elk, bighorn sheep, and pronghorn have also been reintroduced with success. Working the Badlands in the 1880s, people moved from the East and Midwest to try their hand at ranching. In 1883 Theodore Roosevelt invested in a local cattle operation known as the Maltese Cross Ranch, south of Medora. The Badlands saw human activity going back thousands of years, but because through-travel was difficult, there is little evidence of permanent settlement. In historic times Northern Plains tribes hunted the great bison herds. When the railroad came to the Dakota Territory Elkhorn Ranch, 1880s HOUGHTON LIBRARY, HARVARD UNIVERSITY The next summer, after both his wife and his mother died on February 14, he returned in search We still benefit today from the work of the Civilian Conservation Corps. These young men built the park’s roads, culverts, trails, and structures in the 1930s. Right: Blue penstemon, prairie wild rose, sunflower, and crested beardtongue. ABOVE AND RIGHT—NPS Bison tell the tale of successful conservation efforts by President Roosevelt and countless others. NPS / LAURA THOMAS Exploring Theodore Roosevelt National Park Scenic Drive runs east from Oxbow Overlook to River Bend Overlook, to Cannonball Concretions Pullout, to U S highway 85. There are other overlooks along the way. Painted Canyon Overlook Stay Safe, Protect the Park Federal law protects all natural and cultural features in the park. Do not collect or disturb objects. • Wild animals are dangerous and best viewed from a distance. For their sake and yours, do not approach or feed them. • Carry plenty of water when hiking. The park’s natural water sources are not potable. • Pets must be leashed and are not allowed on trails. • For a complete list of regulations, including firearms policy, visit the park website. Accessibility We strive to make our facilities, services, and programs accessible to all. For information, check at a visitor center, call, or visit the park website. npf_black.pdf 1 The North Unit Visitor Center (Central Time) is located on U S highway 85 and has a ranger station. Juniper, located along Scenic Drive west of Little Mo Nature Trail, has wheelchair access, an amphitheater, phones, a campground, and picnic area (Group Camp). More Information Theodore Roosevelt National Park is one of over 400 parks in the National Park System. To learn more about National Park Service programs in America’s communities, visit www.nps.gov. Theodore Roosevelt National Park P O Box 7 Medora, ND 58645-0007 701-623-4466 www.nps.gov/thro The wilderness area north of the Little Missouri River includes Buckhorn Trail, Hagen Spring, Long Creek, and prairie dog towns. The road may be closed in winter past the North Achenbach trailhead. Oxbow Overlook has an elevation of 2,409 feet (734 meters). Sperati Point has an elevation of 2,560 feet (780 meters). NPS / SANDRA SWANSON Three Park Units The driving distance between the North and South units is 68 miles. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit is a 1½-hour drive from Medora. See maps for details. Northwest of Juniper is the Caprock Coulee Nature Trail, which has self-guided trails. The wilderness area south of Scenic Drive includes Achenbach Hills, Achenbach Spring, South Achenbach Trail, and Corral Creek. 8/26/22 The Little Missouri River flows east through the middle. Long X Bridge on U S highway 85 crosses the river. Little Mo Nature Trail, located along Scenic Drive west of the North Unit Visitor Center, has self-guided trails and wheelchair access. The short loop is 0.7 miles (1.1 kilometers). The Long Loop us 1.4 miles (2.2 kilometers). Southwest of the visitor center is the CCC Campground (U S Forest Service). 12:33 PM Emergencies call 911 Join the park community. www.nationalparks.org South of that along U S highway 85 is Summit Campground (U S Forest Service). It is 48 miles (77 kilometers) from Belfield and Interstate 94. IGPO:2023—423-201/83068 Last updated 2023 NORTH UNIT HIGHLIGHTS (CENTRAL TIME) From ND 200, highway 85 continues north 19 miles (31 kilometers) to the park’s north unit. Watford City is 10 miles north via highway 85. The Maah Daah Hey Trail between the South Unit and Elkhorn Ranch is 26 miles (42 kilometers) and between the North Unit and Elkhorn Ranch is 44 miles (71 kilometers). North Unit Visitor Center has exhibits, a short film, bookstore, and information about activities and road and trail conditions. Open daily in summer; winter hours can vary. Closed on Thanksgiving, December 25, and January 1. From Interstate 94 at Belfield to ND 200 (north via highway 85) is 32 miles (51 kilometers). ND 200 leads east to Killdeer, 12 miles (19 kilometers). Driving distance between the North and South Unites is 68 miles (109 kilometers) via Interstate 94 and U S highway 85. The junction of Interstate 94 and U S highway 85 is at exit 42 in Belfield. 14-Mile Scenic Drive The paved road starts at the entrance station. Along the way are pullouts with overlooks and exhibit panels. From Interstate 94 / Belfield to the North Unit via highway 85 is 51 miles (82 kilometers). Interstate 94 / highway 10 continues west of Medora / Interstate 94 / highway South Unit to the road to 10 then continues west the park’s Elkhorn Ranch 8 miles (13 kilometers) Unit (ND 11 / 708 / FH2). to the town of Beach. Interstate 94 continues east of Belfield 10 miles (16 kilometers) to Dickinson. Interstate 94 / U S highway 10 leads west for 15 miles (24 kilometers) from highway 85 at Belfield to the park’s South Unit (take exit 24 or 27 at Medora). The Little Missouri River runs southeast, then southwest toward U S highway 10/Interstate 94. The Maah Daah Hey Trail to the west runs south through the wilderness area, which also includes North and South Petrified Forest Trails, Lone Tree Loop Trail, Mike Auney Trail, Big Plateau Trail, Ekblom Trail, and prairie dog towns. when sand grains from an ancient river deposit were cemented together by minerals dissolved in groundwater. River Bend Overlook Take a short walk from the parking area to a view of the Little Missouri floodplain. The stone shelter was built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps. Oxbow Overlook Here, the Little Missouri takes a hard turn to east. The river originally continued north to Hudson Bay. During the most recent ice age, continental glaciers blocked its way, hence the turn. SOUTH UNIT HIGHLIGHTS (MOUNTAIN TIME) ELKHORN RANCH UNIT (TIMELESS) Painted Canyon Visitor Center and Overlook Here on the upper margin of the Badlands is a magnificent panorama of the broken topography in its colorful hues. The Elkhorn Ranch Unit is the site of Roosevelt’s beloved second ranch. The buildings no longer exist, but stones mark the ranch house foundation. Exhibit panels tell about ranch life and floodplain habitat. The visitor center, open May through October, has information and restrooms. Picnic tables are nearby. Longhorn Steers The park maintains this historic demonstration herd as a reminder of the Badlands cattle industry. South Unit Visitor Center has information, a theater, and a museum with natural history displays and some of Theodore Roosevelt’s personal items. Open daily except Thanks­giving, December 25, and January 1. Cannonball Concretions Pullout These ”cannonballs” were formed Behind the visitor center, the Maltese Cross Cabin has been moved from Bighorn sheep NPS / CHAD ALLMENDINGER 36-mile Scenic Loop Drive This paved drive has pullouts with overlooks and exhibit panels. Boicourt Overlook One of the best views of the Badlands in the park is from this overlook. Peaceful Valley Ranch This complex spans the successive eras of the area’s recent history. It was a ranch in the late 1800s, dude ranch in the 1920s, headquarters of the CCC and WPA in the 1930s, park headquarters in the 1950s and 60s, and facility for guided horseback rides until 2014. In 1884 Theodore Roosevelt hired Wilmot Dow and Bill Sewall to build and run the ranch. By mid-October Sewall and Dow had moved onto the site of the Elkhorn Ranch and were cutting and collecting cottonwood logs for the ranch Off-road driving is prohibited in all park units. This map is not suitable for trail navigation. Obtain a trail map at a park visitor center. To the west are Jones Creek and Lower Talkington Trail. Southeast along Scenic Loop Drive are Boicourt Overlook, Boicourt Spring, Boicourt Trail (0.3 miles/0.5 kilometers roundtrip), and prairie dog towns. Boicourt Trail has wheelchair access. To the northwest are prairie dog towns. Northeast of them are Peaceful Valley Ranch and the CCC Trail. Restrooms are nearby along the Lower Paddock Creek Trail. West of Peaceful Valley Ranch is Cottonwood, which has wheelchair access, an amphitheater, phones, a campground, and a picnic area. Before going to the Elkhorn, ask for information at one of the visitor centers. The roads are unpaved, steep, and easily washed out by storms. Roundup Horse Camp, located in the northern part of the South Unit, has restricted access and includes part of the Mike Auney Trail. Prairie dog towns are southeast of it. Scenic Loop Drive may be closed in winter past the Roundup trailhead and between Scoria Point Overlook and Peaceful Valley Ranch. Southeast of that are the northern part of Scenic Loop Drive, Wind Canyon Trail (0.4 miles/0.6 kilometers roundtrip) with an overlook; Jules Creek, running southeast; and Roundup Trail, running south. Skyline Vista (0.2 miles/0.3 kilometers roundtrip) is to the south and has wheelchair access. Continuing along Scenic Loop Drive to the southeast is a prairie dog town. Continuing south, west and south are Medora Overlook and the South Unit Visitor Center, which has a ranger station and Roosevelt’s Maltese Cross Cabin. There are two private campgrounds in the area. The South Unit Visitor Center (Mountain Time) is to the south in Medora. its original location and restored. It is open for tours. Southeast is the Chateau DeMores State Historic Site. Sully Creek State Park, which has a campground, is to the south along the Maah Daah Hey Trail and Little Missouri River. To the west along Scenic Loop Drive is an overlook with restrooms. Continuing northwest along Scenic Loop Drive are five additional overlooks, including the Badlands Overlook and Scoria Point Overlook, as well as Ridgeline Nature Trail (0.6 miles/1 kilometer roundtrip), which has self-guided trails. Further west are an unpaved road leading to Coal Vein Trail, which has self-guided trails; the Badlands Spur Trail, which has an overlook; and Lower and Upper Paddock Creek Trails. Southeast are Upper Talkington Trail and Buck Hill (0.2 miles/0.3 kilometers roundtrip), which has an elevation of 2,855 feet (870 meters). Upper Talkington Trail continues southeast to Rim Trail and Southeast Corner Spring. To the south is Old East Entrance Station with an overlook (0.8 miles/1.3 kilometers roundtrip). Sheep Creek is nearby. To the south of the southeastern part of Scenic Loop Drive off exit 32 along U S highway 10/Interstate 94 are Painted Canyon Visitor Center (Mountain Time), which is open in summer only and has a picnic area, phones, ranger station, and wheelchair access. Painted Canyon Nature Trail (0.9 miles/1.4 kilometers roundtrip) and Painted Canyon Trail are nearby. house. Working through the winter, they completed the house by spring 1885. The eight-room house stood 30 by 60 feet, with 7-foot-high walls. A porch hugged the east side. Dow and Sewall built several more buildings: two stables with a connecting roof; cattle shed; chicken house; and blacksmith shop. By 1887 drought and blizzards had destroyed Roosevelt’s herds. He gave up ranching and moved permanently back to New York to continue his political career.