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![]() | Point ReyesGuide 2012 - 50th Anniversary |
50th Anniversary - Visitor Guide to Point Reyes National Seashore (NS) in California. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
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covered parks
Point Reyes National Seashore
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
NPS Photo
Commemorating 50 Years, 1962-2012
Point Reyes at
Families have enjoyed the beauty and bounty of the beaches at Point Reyes for millennia. Coast Miwok people fished and gathered clams at low tide. Pictured here is a
National Park Ranger contacting a family on McClures Beach in the 1960s, soon after the park was authorized. Inset: Biologist Mike Reichmuth working with students on
the Giacomini Wetlands restoration project.
A Bright Star in the Conservation Galaxy
N
ational Parks have become so much a part of American culture
and heritage that it’s hard to imagine our country without them.
These places are a way of preserving, unimpaired, some of
the nation’s natural wonders and inspirational human stories for “the
enjoyment of future generations.”
As early as 1929, Californians were increasingly concerned about the
fate of their coastline. Development had swallowed most of the eastern
seaboard, and was accelerating along the Pacific and Gulf Coasts.
Congressional reports recommended the creation of a system of national
seashores to protect these vanishing landscapes, and to provide public
access to beaches.
In 1935, Conrad Wirth, then Assistant Director of the National Park
Service, recommended that 53,000 acres of Point Reyes be purchased
“because of the peninsula’s exceptional qualities and ... accessibility
to the concentrated population of Central California.” The purchase
price of $2.4 million, or about $45 per acre, seems a great bargain in
retrospect, but, with the country still in the grip of the Great Depression,
Congress thought otherwise. A new wave of land speculators aroused
private conservation groups, who began to purchase Point Reyes
themselves. The first 52 acres to be protected, in 1938, were the wetlands
adjacent to Drakes Beach at a cost of $3,000. This property was deeded
to Marin County. A dream was born, but it would take the extraordinary
work of many individuals working together to fully realize that vision of
a national seashore at Point Reyes.
continued>
Inside This Issue
Fire Permit
Page 1-3 —. Commemorating 50 Years
You may obtain a free
permit for a beach fire
at Point Reyes National
Seashore from any
park visitor center. You must follow
regulations as described on the
permit. On high fire days, all permits
are null and void. Call 415-464-5100
for current fire conditions.
Page 4
—
Page 5 —
Plan Your Visit
Recreation
Page 6-7 —. From the Ground Up
Page 8 —
Just For Kids
Visit us on the web at www.nps.gov/pore
Welcome!
For nearly a century and a half, National Parks have been sanctuaries
for people seeking peace from the turmoil of daily life. This year, Point
Reyes National Seashore is commemorating its 50th year as a proud
member of this community. John F. Kennedy signed the legislation
setting aside the only west coast seashore park on September 13, 1962.
Sadly, he didn’t live to visit the park, but on October 20, 1966, Lady Bird
Johnson, a champion of national parks and outdoor spaces, came to
Point Reyes for its dedication. In her speech, the First Lady called Point
Reyes, “a bright star in the galaxy of conservation achievements,” and
spoke of the urgent need urban Americans have for open spaces near
their communities.
Point Reyes offers many opportunities to explore that natural world.
From a peaceful walk through a fog-shrouded forest to a sun-drenched
rocky perch above the immensity of the Pacific Ocean, here you can find
many alluring retreats. In doing so, you may witness the drama of the
changing seasons, as foggy summers give way to clear autumn days, and
sun-browned autumn hillsides give way to winter’s replenishing rains.
In spring, the magic is found in tiny yellow sun-cups blooming in sandy
soils, and razor-taloned peregrine falcons stooping to combat nestmarauding ravens. The elk bugling on Tomales Point is characteristic of
fall on the peninsula, while the return of the northern elephant seal and
the migration of the Pacific gray whale herald winter and the year’s end.
Enjoy your visit and help us to preserve this “bright star” so future
generations may also find wonder and solace here. Through active
stewardship, this place will remain a refuge for all.
Park Superintendent, Cicely Muldoon
Emergencies
Report emergencies to visitor center
staff or call 911. Cellular service is not
available in most park locations. Pay
phones are located at all three visitor
centers, Limantour Beach, and Pierce
Point Ranch.
Lost and Found
Items may be turned in or reported
missing at any park visitor center.
Become a
Junior Ranger!
Ask at the Bear Valley Visitor
Center or the Lighthouse Visitor
Center for your Junior Ranger activity
packet.
For more fun, visit these websites:
www.nps.gov/pore/forkids/index.htm
www.nps.gov/webrangers
A Bright Star in the Conservation Galaxy
continued
Citizens Take Action
In the early 1940s, though recreation and beauty were of little concern
to a country at war, local conservationists rallied once again. Mrs.
Margaret McClure donated 2.9 acres of her Pierce Point Ranch to
Marin County, providing access to the rugged, windswept shore now
known as McClures Beach. Caroline Livermore, in concert with the
Marin Conservation League, raised $15,000 to help Marin County buy
185 acres of Tomales Bay shoreline. Out of this nucleus grew Tomales
Bay State Park, a refuge for those Ice Age survivors, the Bishop pines.
Following World War II, the country experienced an economic boom
period that led to great industrial and urban growth. The federal
government invested heavily in highway construction and oil prices
were low. More Americans had leisure time, owned cars, and spent
time traveling to the coast than ever before. Coastal communities
were erecting hotels and motels, restaurants and amusement parks to
accommodate and entertain these tourists. This development boom
extended to the Point Reyes Peninsula, already a favored vacation spot
where well-to-do San Franciscans had built summer homes.
Loggers began cutting down trees on Inverness Ridge and surveyors
were marking off lots above Limantour Spit. A sense of urgency to save
the land gained momentum with help from a powerful ally—Clem
Miller, the new Congressional representative for Marin County. With
the support of U.S. Senator from California Clair Engle, Congressman
Miller introduced legislation for a 35,000 acre park. Conservationists,
organized as the Seashore Foundation, promoted the park dream in the
face of opposition from developers and others fearful of losing their
traditional way of life.
Creating Seashore Parks
In 1953, the first national seashore was established at Cape Hatteras, on
the dynamic barrier island system off the North Carolina coast. Local,
state, and federal advocates for protection of the Point Reyes peninsula
were encouraged by this success. However, Drakes Bay Estates, with
proposed development of over 400 housing units, began construction
near Limantour Beach in 1956, lending urgency to the conservationists’
endeavor.
In the late 1950s, legislation was first proposed to establish a national
seashore at Point Reyes. When he took office, President John F.
Kennedy announced two conservation agendas: the creation of
national seashores, and the adoption of the Wilderness Bill. Having
spent summers throughout his life along the Massachusetts coast on
Cape Cod, the protection of these beautiful wild shores was close
to Kennedy’s heart. Key players in these struggles were President
Kennedy’s Interior Secretary Stewart Udall, Sierra Club executive
director David Brower, Clair Engle, Clem Miller, and author Harold
Gilliam, among many others. In August of 1961, Cape Cod became the
second national seashore, lending further momentum for the Point
Reyes cause. The 1962 Sierra Club publication of Gilliam’s book, Island
in Time, brought much-needed publicity and a poetic voice to the
campaign to protect Point Reyes. David Brower distributed a copy to
every member of the 87th Congress.
In his book, Gilliam noted: “only 240 miles out of the 3700 miles of
shoreline from Mount Desert Island to Corpus Christi are dedicated to
public purposes. The National Park Service administers a mere 55 shore
miles along the 1700 miles of Pacific Ocean coast.”
The 10 National Seashores with Their Authorization Dates
Cape Cod NS (MA)
August 7, 1961
Fire Island NS (NY)
Sept 11, 1964
Point Reyes NS (CA)
September 13, 1962
Assateague Island NS (MD, VA)
Sept 21, 1965
Cape Hatteras NS (NC)
August 17, 1937
Cape Lookout NS (NC)
March 10, 1966
Cumberland Island NS (GA)
Oct 23, 1972
Gulf Islands NS (FL, MS)
Jan 8, 1971
Canaveral NS (FL)
Jan 3, 1975
Padre Island NS (TX)
September 28, 1962
Point Reyes
National Seashore
Authorized in 1962, Point Reyes
National Seashore preserves
and protects over 71,000 acres,
including 32,000 acres of
designated wilderness and 80
miles of wild, undeveloped
coastline. With its rich biological diversity, and
cultural history, Point Reyes provides critical
habitat to wildlife, is a repository for over
3,000 years of cultural history, and serves as a
haven for the restoration of the human spirit.
Page 2
Contributors
John A. Dell’Osso
Loretta Farley
Kevin Haney
Doug Hee
Chris Lish
Anela Ramos
John Reeves
Mary Beth Shenton
Mailing Address
1 Bear Valley Road
Point Reyes, CA 94956
Website
www.nps.gov/pore
The National Park Service cares for the
special places saved by the American people
so that all may experience our heritage.
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Point Reyes National Seashore Association (PRNSA) is the
primary nonprofit partner of the National Park Service
at Point Reyes. PRNSA mobilizes community support for
resource preservation projects within the park and provides
environmental education programs that help visitors explore,
discover and connect with the natural world. This publication
was funded through a grant from the PRNSA. Learn more and
consider becoming a member at www.ptreyes.org.
Superintendent
Cicely Muldoon
Fax Number
415-663-8132
Printed on recycled paper with funding from
The Marin County Wildlife and Fishery Commission.
Chief of Interpretation
John A. Dell’Osso
Park Headquarters
415-464-5100
Special thanks to Michael Osborne Design for the 50th Anniversary logo.
Commemorating 50 Years 1962-2012
Momentum in favor of the park grew, prompting legislation to acquire
the full 53,000 acres first proposed in 1935 by Conrad Wirth. Twentyseven years later, the dream of creating a National Park site at Point
Reyes seemed to be coming true. Congressional floor debates for the
Point Reyes legislation took place in the summer of 1962, during which
battles were waged over incorporation of ranches and other private
property into the seashore. The intense effort finally ended with the
passage of S. 476 and, on September 13, 1962, President Kennedy
signed “The Point Reyes Authorization Act” into law. Sadly, President
Kennedy did not live to visit the newly created seashore.
A Visit from the First Lady
On October 20, 1966, Lady Bird Johnson and Interior Secretary Stewart
Udall came to Point Reyes to dedicate the park. Standing on Drakes
Beach, with the Pacific as her backdrop, she warned that, “The growing
needs of an urban America are quickening the tick of the conservation
clock. Let us dedicate Point Reyes National Seashore to the vitality of
the American people, and to generations yet unborn who will come
here with the continent at their backs and gaze afar into immensity.”
She called Point Reyes “a bright star in the galaxy of conservation
achievements of the 1960s.”
Congress, however, dragged its heels in appropriating the authorized
funds. The original $14 million ran out before half of the 53,000 acres
were acquired, and as land values soared in the years to come, the
National Park Service was often just one step ahead of the developers.
Again, individuals with a dream of protecting the area rallied together.
More than 450,000 people wrote to the White House in support of park
funding. Their efforts, organized by Peter Behr of Save Our Seashore,
finally got the job done. On April 3, 1970, an additional $43,500,000 was
appropriated to reach the goal of 53,000 acres.
September 13, 1962. President John Kennedy presents California Representative Clem
Miller with the pen he used to sign the National Seashore authorizing legislation.
Pictured standing behind the President are U.S. Interior Secretary Stewart L. Udall
(third from left), Senator Clair Engle of California (fifth from left), and Executive
Director of the Sierra Club David Brower (at far right).
Additional legislation established the Point Reyes Wilderness on
October 18, 1976. This designated 23,370 acres of wilderness in the
park, and an additional 8,003 of potential wilderness:
“without impairment of its natural values, in a manner
which provides for such recreational, educational, historic
preservation, interpretation, and scientific research
opportunities as are consistent with, based upon, and
supportive of the maximum protection, restoration, and
preservation of the natural environment within the area.”
Legislation like the Marine Mammal Protection Act (1972) and the
Endangered Species Act (1973) shaped the Seashore’s protection of
critical habitats.
In the 1970s, a new recognition evolved that the National Seashore
must play a role in preserving the cultural heritage of the area. Kule
Loklo, a replica of a Coast Miwok village at Bear Valley, was built as an
introduction to thousands of years of Coast Miwok history. The Point
Reyes Lighthouse was retired in 1975, and quickly became an icon and a
visitor destination. The Seashore continues to support the traditions of
dairies and ranches, even as thousands of acres of agricultural land has
been lost state- and nation-wide.
Input from various community and environmental groups continued
to influence policy at the National Seashore. The sentiment persisted
that Point Reyes should protect the vibrant cultural history of the area,
yet remain as wild as possible. It was recognized that merely protecting
the area from development was not enough. Efforts had to be made
to defend and re-establish the natural processes and critical habitats,
which tied together and defined this place.
Tule elk, a species rescued from the brink of extinction, were
reintroduced within a part of their former range at Point Reyes in the
late 1970s. Efforts have been made to limit the effects of erosion on
the streams critical to the populations of salmon and steelhead trout.
Elephant seals returned to Point Reyes and hauled out onto isolated,
local beaches. The first breeding colony formed in the early 1980s.
The Seashore entered a new era as it grappled with the best ways to
protect and manage the assets in its care. Concerns over the protection
of threatened and endangered species, the impacts of invasive
species, the preservation of water quality, and the need for a baseline
understanding of the resources led to increased scientific investigation
and strategic planning.
Community groups, volunteers, and partners have always been key
to Point Reyes’ success, but a new emphasis was placed on working
together to carry out research and monitoring, provide education, and
present opportunities to understand and appreciate the park.
Lady Bird Johnson, wife of President Lyndon Johnson, came to Point Reyes to
dedicate the park in October 1966. Here she is snapped dancing in the surf at Drakes
Beach with Interior Secretary Stewart Udall and California Governor Pat Brown.
At the end of the 20th Century, there was a growing awareness of new
challenges facing parks. Global climate change and ocean health have
led people to realize that the issues that threaten Point Reyes today are
not just regional or national, but worldwide in scope.
As immense and overwhelming as problems may seem to an individual,
remember what can be done when people have a dream. This place has
always been a symbol of what can be accomplished when people work
together—individuals taking an interest, getting involved, and making a
change.
National Parks are one of the crucial places where citizens—both
young and old—can develop a deeper understanding of our human
interdependence with the increasingly fragile planet we inhabit. In
our “progress” toward ever-more sophisticated technologies, we have
harvested, mined, drilled, and developed our way through more natural
resources than all of our ancestors combined. Focusing our sights on
progress measured only through this same prism can’t be sustained.
Wild places provide opportunities for progress measured on a different
plane—conservation, simplicity, stewardship, wonder, community, and
compassion.
Throughout the park’s 50 years, millions of visitors have hiked the trails,
surfed the waves, camped in its wilderness campgrounds, watched
migratory whales and breeding elephant seals, and enjoyed the restful
sound of waves lapping the shore. Only through our vigilance will
the wild character of the forests and beaches—preserved through the
efforts of our tireless predecessors—be enjoyed by generations to come.
Commemorating 50 Years 1962-2012
Page 3
Plan Your Visit
Bear Valley Visitor Center
Hours:
Stop at the Seashore’s primary visitor center for general
information and to view the Seashore’s orientation film.
Indoor exhibits introduce the plants, animals, and people
of the area. Free park maps and beach fire permits are
available at the main desk. Permits for backcountry and
boat-in camping are issued at the camping desk. Camping
reservations are available up to six months in advance at
www.recreation.gov
Monday—Friday, 9 am to 5 pm
Weekends and holidays, 8 am to 5 pm
Outdoor Exhibits:
Earthquake Trail, Kule Loklo, Morgan Horse Ranch
and Woodpecker Trail
Phone Number: 415-464-5137
visit our website: www.nps.gov/pore
Science On A Sphere
Drive Time From Bear Valley
Science On a Sphere (SOS)® is a room sized,
global display system that uses computers
and video projectors to display planetary
data onto a six foot diameter sphere,
analogous to a giant animated globe.
Researchers at NOAA developed Science
On a Sphere® as an educational tool
to help illustrate Earth System science
to people of all ages. Animated images
of atmospheric storms, climate change,
and ocean temperature can be shown on
the sphere, which is used to explain what are
sometimes complex environmental processes in a way that is
simultaneously intuitive and captivating.
Lighthouse/Chimney Rock Parking
45 minutes
Drakes Beach
30 minutes
Limantour Beach
20 minutes
Point Reyes Hostel
15 minutes
Tomales Point
30 minutes
San Francisco (via Sir Francis Drake Blvd)
1 hour
San Franciso (via Highway 1)
1.5 hours
Bodega Bay
Petaluma
Novato
Sonoma/Napa
1 hour
30 minutes
30 minutes
1 hour
Please drive carefully. Follow posted speed limits and watch for cyclists.
Gasoline is only available locally in Point Reyes Station on Highway 1.
Check at Bear Valley Visitor Center for program times.
Bear Valley Outdoor Exhibits
Earthquake Trail
Starting from the Bear Valley Visitor
Center picnic area, this short loop
trail highlights the San Andreas
Fault. View exhibits about geololgy
and the great San Francisco
earthquake of 1906.
Open daily, sunrise to sunset.
Wheelchair-accessible.
Kule Loklo
This Coast Miwok cultural exhibit
provides a glimpse of life here
before European contact. The
replica village is an easy half-mile
walk from the Bear Valley Visitor
Center. Learn about Coast Miwok
culture as you walk along the trail.
Open daily, sunrise to sunset.
Morgan Horse Ranch
This working ranch at Bear Valley is
for Morgan horses used for hiking
trail patrol at Point Reyes National
Seashore. The Morgan is the first
American horse breed. Self-guided
exhibits, corrals and demonstrations
are a part of the ranch.
Open daily, 9 am to 4:30 pm.
Kenneth C. Patrick Visitor Center
Drive 30 minutes from Bear Valley to the Kenneth C.
Patrick Visitor Center and beautiful Drakes Beach. Enjoy
exhibits on 16th and 17th century maritime exploration,
marine fossils, and marine environments. You can find
refreshments next door at the Drakes Beach Café.
The Annual Sand Sculpture contest is held on the Sunday
of Labor Day weekend. Inquire at any visitor center or
check the park’s website.
Lighthouse Visitor Center
Drive 45 minutes from Bear Valley to the lighthouse
parking area. Walk 0.4 miles up a moderately steep hill to
the Lighthouse Visitor Center. Some handicap accessible
parking is available within 700 feet of the visitor center.
Inquire at any visitor center for access to this parking
area. An observation deck overlooks the lighthouse.
When the stairs are open, you may walk down the steep
308 steps to the lighthouse.
Fog and wind are common throughout the year. Dress
in layers. For current weather information, contact any
visitor center or view the lighthouse webcam:
Woodpecker Trail
Take a lovely shaded stroll through
mixed laurel, oak, and fir forest.
This trail offers glimpses of acorn
woodpeckers hard at work creating
granaries in trailside trees. Selfguided exhibits offer insights into
deeper understanding of this forest
dynamic.
Open daily, sunrise to sunset.
Hours:
Weekends and federal holidays, 10 am to 5 pm
Phone Number: 415-669-1250
Drakes Beach Café
Serving local, organic, sustainably produced foods.
Open weekends; weekday hours vary seasonally.
For more information, call 415-669-1297.
Hours:
Visitor Center : Thursday–Monday, 10 am to 4:30 pm
*Stairs: Thursday–Monday, 10 am to 4:30 pm
*Lens Room: Thursday–Monday, 2:30 pm to 4:00 pm
*High winds or maintenance work may close the stairs.
Inquire at any visitor center.
Pets are not permitted beyond the bounds
of the paved lighthouse visitors’ parking lot.
Phone Number: 415-669-1534
www2.nature.nps.gov/air/WebCams/parks/porecam/porecam
QR
Codes
Page 4
Park Map
Park
Hiking Map
South
Commemorating 50 Years 1962-2012
Park
Hiking Map
North
GPS Coordinates
for Point Reyes
Lighthouse
Explore Point Reyes
Bear Valley Area Map
rga
Mo
Tidepooling — A Rare Treat
l
rai
nT
To
Horse Trail
Morgan
Horse Ranch
W
oo
dpe
Kule
Loklo
c
il
r Tra
ke
Bear Valley
Visitor Center
Trailer
Parking
Maintenance
Buildings
Picnic
Area
il
Tra
Administration
Buildings
Red Barn
Classroom &
Parking
Ear
th
q
Rift
il
Tra
ke
ua
To Five Brooks
To Inverness,
Beaches, and
Lighthouse
Resources
Building
Zo
ne
Trai
l
Bear Valley Trail
to Mt. Wittenb
erg
Trail, Divide Me
adow,
and Arch Rock
k lo
e Lo
Kul
To Olema
B ea r
y Road
Valle
Parking Areas
Interpretive Trail
Visitor Center
Hiking Trail
Ranger Station
Picnic Area
Restrooms
Public Pay Phone
Trails
Roads
Horses Permitted
N
Horses Not
Permitted
T
here are many ways to experience the outdoors
at Point Reyes. Whether in the water or on the
land, from a bike or a horse, in a kayak or canoe,
or on your own two feet, please be prepared. With
the variable weather found here, it’s advisable to
dress in layers. Bring plenty of water and sunscreen.
Ask for information at a visitor center, consult a
hiking guide, or do some internet research, before
embarking on your adventure. Call the weather
information line at 415-464-5100 for current
weather conditions.
Hiking
Point Reyes is graced with over 150 miles of hiking
trails. Some trails ascend steeply into the forested
zones along the Inverness Ridge, but there are also
less ambitious options amongst the coastal scrub
and prairie communities, and in the valleys. An
in-depth trail guide and hiking map are available at
any visitor center or online.
Camping
In the seashore, we have 4 backpacking camps; car
camping is not available. You can make reservations
up to six months in advance by going to
www.recreation.gov, or calling 877-644-6777.
Minimum walking distances to campgrounds:
Sky Camp
1.4 miles from Limantour Road
Coast Camp
1.8 miles from Laguna Trail Parking
Glen Camp
4.8 miles from Bear Valley Parking
Wildcat Camp 5.5 miles from Palomarin Parking
Paddling
Kayaking and canoeing are popular pursuits at Point
Reyes. Tomales Bay, a narrow, 12-mile-long shallow
estuarine bay provides wonderful opportunities for
novice and experienced paddlers. From July 1 through
February 28, paddling is permitted in Drakes Estero.
Cycling
Bicycles are permitted on all paved park roads and on a
limited number of trails at Point Reyes. On the official
park map, these trails are indicated with dashed red
lines. Watch for horses and hikers; maximum speed
limit is 15 mph.
Horseback Riding
Equestrians may use all trails at Point Reyes, except
those marked in red above. On weekends and federal
holidays, there are a few restrictions on trails in the
Bear Valley area. Please check at a visitor center for
restrictions and current trail conditions
Visiting With Your Dog
Dogs, on leash, are welcome on four park beaches:
Limantour Beach, North Beach, South Beach, and
Kehoe Beach. The short trail leading to Kehoe Beach
is the only park trail where dogs are permitted. Along
the Bolinas Ridge Trail, in nearby Golden Gate NRA,
dogs on leash are also allowed. For more information,
please check at any visitor center or online.
A common question asked here is, “Where
can I see tidepools?” Only a few times
a year, at negative low tides, does the
intertidal zone open its doors to allow
a glimpse of the harsh life of the plants
and animals that live there. Plan ahead
by finding out which days offer the safest
opportunities for tidepool exploration. As
the tide recedes more rocks are exposed,
allowing you to see into these dynamic and
enchanting life zones.
Look at the chart below to plan your next
tidepool adventure and to see just how
rare a perfect tidepooling day is. Keep your
eye on the water for rogue waves, watch
your footing on slippery vegetation, and be
mindful of the creatures living there.
Date
Time
11/13/2012
04:04 pm
12/11/2012
03:25 pm
12/12/2012
04:13 pm
1/09/2013
03:13 pm
1/10/2013
03:59 pm
2/07/2013
02:57 pm
2/08/2013
03:42 pm
2/09/2013
4:23 pm
4/28/2013
7:41 am
4/29/2013
8:40 am
4/30/2013
9:38 am
5/28/2013
8:21 am
5/29/2013
9:14 am
6/26/2013
7:58 am
7/25/2013
7:30 am
12/1/2013
3:45 pm
12/30/2013
3:29 pm
12/31/2013
4:14 pm
Height
in feet
-1.3
-1.3
-1.7
-1.2
-1.5
-0.9
-1.1
-1.0
-1.4
-1.2
-1.0
-1.5
-1.1
-1.3
-1.0
-0.9
-1.1
-1.5
Hands and Hearts — Our Volunteers
Just as grass roots efforts by committed citizens helped create the park 50 years ago, today Point Reyes National Seashore
volunteers play an indispensable role, often making the difference between whether a project is accomplished or not. But
the experience of volunteering is a reward unto itself, as attested by the two volunteers below.
The famed Russian author Vladimir Nabokov said, “To be in
a rarified land where a rare butterfly and it's host plant exists:
all that I love rushes in like a momentary vacuum ... and I am
at one.” That is what volunteering is for me.
The fates have handed me a Border Collie talent to id
butterflies on the wing. I love being in a place where my talent
is not only appreciated but needed. The staff is completely
inviting for all of us “nature geeks.” It’s a rarefied place—the
National Seashore. Its beauty is so vast and humbling, it's
stewardship transcends employees.
~ Liam
I volunteer because Point Reyes needs to be preserved
so future generations can have the same enjoyment it has
given me all these years. The park, its staff, volunteers, and
interns devote their time and love to make the park a better
place for their community to enjoy. This place is full of
excitement, curiosity and drive. Never have I worked in an
environment with so much heart and dedication. The park
staff are doing what they love and are sharing their knowledge
with us. Participating as a volunteer has allowed me to give
back to my community, and express my love and passion for
this amazing spot on the planet.
~ Ariel
If you would like more information about volunteering at Point Reyes National Seashore, please contact the Volunteers-In-Parks Program
Manager at PORE_volunteer@nps.gov and 415-464-5225 or visit http://www.nps.gov/pore/supportyourpark/volunteer.
Commemorating 50 Years 1962-2012
Page 5
Point Reyes, From the Ground Up
O
ver 5,ooo years of human history await your discovery at Point Reyes.
More than just a natural sanctuary, this peninsula holds within its
forested ridges, rolling grasslands, and coastal expanses the stories of people
who came before us. Their cultures, interactions, and experiences are
echoed in the landscape. These human layers offer a window into our past
and hold the potential to shape our lives even today.
An Inhospitable Place
Coast Miwok—The First People
Coast Miwok people inhabited small family villages in present-day Marin
and Sonoma Counties for thousands of years. They enjoyed a rich economy
based on gathering, fishing, and hunting.
At the time of European contact, an
estimated 3,000 to 5,000 Coast Miwok
lived in the area.
Acorns, a nutritious starchy seed, were a
favored staple of the Coast Miwok. A family
of four ate about 500 pounds of acorns a year.
Acorns, collected in autumn, were stored in
granaries, and later prepared and cooked by the
women.
Miwok women also gathered and prepared plant materials—such as willow,
hazel, lupine, and sedge—for making baskets. Many of these beautiful baskets
are now in museum collections around the world. Miwok homes were built
from anchored poles, covered with bark, or, in summer, from bundles of
tule— a wetland sedge.
You can learn more about Point Reyes’ first human inhabitants by taking
a short walk to Kule Loklo, a recreation of a Coast Miwok village, near the
Bear Valley Visitor Center (see map on page 5).
Ranching at Point Reyes
The Point Reyes Peninsula has a legacy of ranching. While cattle ranching
existed during the Mexican Rancho period, dairying came to the Point
Reyes peninsula soon after the California Gold Rush. The cool moist climate
of Point Reyes provides ideal conditions for dairy cows—plenty of grass with
a long growing season and abundant fresh water. Some early ranchers came
west looking for gold, but, disappointed in that quest, found their fortunes
making golden wheels of cheese and casks of butter.
The 1880 History of Marin County remarked of Point Reyes, “The grass
growing in the fields on Monday is butter on the city tables the following
Sunday.” The national symbol of quality in butter became the letters PR in a
star stamped into cheesecloth-wrapped casks of butter.
Land disputes following the establishment of the state of California, and
the resultant unpaid legal fees, led the San Francisco law firm of Shafter,
Shafter, Park, and Heydenfeldt to own the entire peninsula. They sold the
northernmost tip to Solomon Pierce and divided up the remaining land into
tenant dairies named alphabetically: “A” Ranch—closest to the Lighthouse,
through “Z” Ranch—at the summit of Mt. Wittenberg. “W” Ranch is the site
of Bear Valley Visitor Center.
Point Reyes is one of the
windiest and foggiest places
on the Pacific Coast. Powerful
winter storms that often come
howling in from the southwest
dump volumes of water along
the Inverness Ridge and
continue across the Central
Valley to blanket the Sierra
Nevada with snow. In addition,
springtime wind speeds can
exceed 130 mph (210 kph).
In summer, the temperature
differential between the cool
Pacific Ocean at around 52°F
(11°C) and the warmer land
causes dense fog to form along
this coast. These hazardous
conditions threaten the safety of
the cargo and sailors that pass
by the point. In the 1850s, as
San Francisco became a major
port, Congress authorized the
construction of a lighthouse
at Point Reyes.
When the Point Reyes Lighthouse is open for tours, it provides a glimpse
into the 19th Century