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Point ReyesGuide 2007 |
Visitor Guide to Point Reyes National Seashore (NS) in California. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
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Visitor Guide
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Point Reyes National Seashore
The official visitor guide
of Point Reyes National Seashore
Point Reyes Has a
Season for Everyone
Welcome
For nearly a century, National
Parks have been sanctuaries for
people seeking peace from the
turmoil of daily life. Since 1962,
Point Reyes National Seashore
has been a refuge, protected as a
living landscape, and abundant
seascape, and wilderness.
A
typical year on the Point Reyes Peninsula abounds
with opportunities to enjoy an enormous variety of
natural experiences. Each season has its own character and
delights making a visit worthwhile at any time of year. Even
shrouded in August fog or pummeled by a drenching
cloudburst in March, the beauty of this singular dynamic
landscape is inescapable.
© Audobon Canyon Ranch, Gordon Sherman Photo Collection
Spring - Greening of the Landscape
Spring is the natural beginning of the year, when the first
flowers emerge and migrants, both fluked and feathered,
pass by Point Reyes heading north to nesting and feeding
grounds in Canada and Alaska. The peninsula hosts nearly
one hundred resident bird species, and another one
hundred migrant species winter here. In spring and fall,
many birds stop by to take advantage of the abundant food
and water available here.
Just offshore, the gray whales that passed by in January and
February on their way to birthing lagoons in Mexico swim
past the lighthouse returning to the rich feeding in the cold
waters off Alaska. Mothers traveling with their newborn
calves can be seen approaching from the south, passing very
near to the Point. From the lighthouse we see their barnacle
encrusted backs as they blow a few times and then dive to
round the Point.
On the opposite end of the Point Reyes headland, at
Chimney Rock, wildflowers such as pussy ears, iris,
poppies, blue-eyed grass, and larkspur—among dozens of
other species—color the hillsides. Down on the pocket
beaches below, elephant seal pups—born during the cool
rainy winter, nursed for about a month, and then left on the
beaches by their mothers—are seen throughout the spring.
Joining them, after the adults leave, are the juveniles,
returning to molt on the beaches where they were born.
Bolinas Lagoon and Drakes Estero provide havens for
harbor seal pupping. In these protected waters the seals
haul out on sandbars, rest and nurse their young. At low
tide they are a common sight from Highway 1 turnouts.
These areas are closed to kayakers in order to protect them
during this vulnerable time.
(Continued on page 2)
Fire Permit
You may obtain a free
permit for a beach fire
at Point Reyes National
Seashore from any park
visitor center. You must
follow regulations as described on the
permit. On high fire days, all permits are
null and void. Call (415) 464-5100 for
current fire conditions.
From a peaceful walk through a
misty shrouded forest to a sunny
perch above the wide open
expanse of the Pacific Ocean, you
have plenty of opportunities to
find a suitable retreat. In doing so,
you may witness the drama of the
changing seasons, as foggy
summers give way to clear
autumn days, and as sunbrowned fall gives way to winter’s
replenishing rains.
You may also observe the magic
of this place as snowy plovers nest
among the seaside pebbles and as
harbor seals give birth to their
young in the esteros. While the
bugling of tule elk on Tomales
Point symbolizes fall on the
peninsula, the year closes with the
return of the northern elephant
seal and the migration of the
Pacific gray whale.
Enjoy your visit and help us to
preserve this national treasure so
that future generations may find
wonder and solace here as well.
Through active stewardship, this
place will remain a refuge for all.
Photos from top: A beautiful day on Drakes Beach. Mule ears are a beautiful sight during
the Spring wildflower bloom. Least sandpipers are among the many shorebirds that can be
seen foraging on seashore beaches. Elephant seals are winter guests. Weaned pups, like
those pictured, are the last to leave in the late spring.
Emergencies
Report emergencies to visitor center staff
or call 911. Cellular service is not available
in most park locations. Pay phones are
located at all three visitor centers.
Lost and Found
Items may be turned in or reported
missing at Bear Valley, Drakes Beach, or
the Lighthouse Visitor Center.
Become a Junior Ranger!
Ask at the Bear Valley Visitor
Center or the Lighthouse
Visitor Center for your
Junior Ranger activity
packet.
For more fun, visit these websites:
www.nps.gov/pore/forkids/index.htm
www.nps.gov/webrangers
Don L. Neubacher
Superintendent
Inside This Issue
Page 2 ... .......Seasons of Point Reyes
Page 4 ... .......Human Layers on the Land
Page 6 ... .......Planning Your Visit
Page 7 ... .......Recreation
Page 8 ... .......Just For Kids
Visit us on the web at www.nps.gov/pore
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Point Reyes National Seashore
Established in 1962, Point Reyes
National Seashore preserves
and protects over 71,000
acres including 32,000 acres
of designated wilderness and
80 miles of wild, undeveloped
coastline. With its rich biological
diversity, and cultural history Point
Reyes provides critical habitat to
wildlife, is a repository for over
3,000 years of cultural history,
and serves as a haven for the
restoration of the human spirit.
Seasons of Point Reyes
Limantour Beach is a fine destination in any season, but
spring walks along its shore reveal the results of winter and
spring storms. Driftwood and kelp wash up on the beach
and changing wind patterns strand thousands of Vellela
vellela, a colonial hydroid, coloring the beaches a bright
blue.
Limantour Beach © Susan Van Der Wal
Superintendent
Don Neubacher
Chief of Interpretation
John A. Dell’Osso
Contributers
Catherine Ball
Loretta Farley
Doug Hee
Chris Lish
Alice Nash
Danielle Norris
Melinda Repko
Emily Scott
Mary Beth Shenton
Mailing Address
1 Bear Valley Road
Point Reyes, CA 94956
Website
www.nps.gov/pore
Fax Number
(415) 663-8132
Park Headquarters
(415) 464-5100
The National Park Service cares
for the special places saved by the
American people so that all may
experience our heritage.
Tule elk, a species reintroduced to Point Reyes in the 1970s,
flourish on Tomales Point. In spring, they are calving and
should always be observed from a safe distance. These
majestic animals once
numbered 500,000 in
California, but
following the Gold
Rush, they were
hunted nearly to
extinction. In 1874, a
Los Banos rancher
discovered a few elk
on his property and
Tule elk cow & calf © Frank Binney
became the first to
commit efforts toward protecting them. Today more than
3,200 Tule elk range over several protected areas of
California.
Summer—Fog Over Fields of Gold
In summer, the hillsides made green by the abundant
winter and early spring rains, turn a golden brown. Flowers
still bloom along the coast and in cool, wet areas where
water is still plentiful. In stark contrast to hot inland areas,
thick fog blankets the headlands, making it necessary to
bundle up in warm layers. To find the warmth of the sun,
you need only return to the Bear
Valley area where temperatures
can be 20 degrees higher.
(Continued from front page)
Over 130 bird species nest at Point Reyes. As the season
progresses the young birds test their wings. This is an
opportunity to see
juvenile plumage and
feeding behaviors, as
young birds continue to
beg for food from
parents. Over 20
federally and state
protected bird species,
such as the Northern
spotted owl and the
Bank swallow, make
Northern spotted owl fledglings
their home on the
peninsula. A natural stopover for migratory birds jutting
ten miles out into the Pacific Point Reyes has abundant
wetland areas for resting and feeding.
The Tule elk enter into their mating rut in late summer.
The bulls’ plaintive bugle resounds along this headland a
few hundred feet above the
crashing waves. The bulls
challenge each other for
control of large harems of
females with which to mate.
To aid you in spotting elk
and understanding their
behavior, docents are on
site at Tomales Point on
weekends and holidays, from
June to September.
Tule elk bull © Bruce Farnsworth
Labor Day signals summer’s end with the Drakes Beach
Sand Sculpture Contest. Dozens of competitors arrive in
the morning to carve their masterpieces, while spectators
and judges provide encouragement.
2007 Sand scuplture contest
Lighthouse fog
This publication was funded through
a grant from the Point Reyes National
Seashore Association (PRNSA). PRNSA
is the primary non-profit park partner
working with the community to fund
and implement preservation projects
throughout the park and to educate
people about the environment. To
learn more visit www.ptreyes.org.
Golden hills of summer
Abbotts Lagoon, a good wildflower destination in spring,
bears fruit in the form of blackberries and salmonberries in
summer. The dunes provide good nesting habitat for the
Western snowy plover, a bird protected under the
Endangered Species Act and monitored at Point Reyes
since 1977. The critical nesting habitat among the low dune
vegetation has been altered by the spread of non-native
beach grasses, that predators use as screens to access birds
and nests. Human activities, such as dog-walking, also
impact the nesting success of the plovers. Exclosures
around the nesting sites help protect the birds. Please don’t
approach or disturb these sites. On weekends and holidays
during nesting season, docents are on site to help you learn
more about these threatened shorebirds.
This publication was
printed on recycled paper.
Western snowy plover © Callie Bowdish
Point Reyes National Seashore Visitor Guide
Autumn—Sunny Days and Warm Southerly Breezes
Fog and wind subside on the coast, bringing forth the
warm days that we longed for during the summer chill.
The Lighthouse and Chimney Rock temperatures can
climb to near eighty degrees during these warm spells.
Stalks of dried hemlock and cow parsnip rise up from the
drought-laden hillsides, reminders that it has been six long
months since the last rain storm.
Great Beach
Acorns, the season’s bounty, droop from live oaks and
tanoaks in the Bear Valley area. In autumn, Coast Miwok
Indians sent their sons into the trees to dislodge this
coveted seed. Acorn
woodpeckers store them
in excavated niches for
future eating. Insect
larvae invade the cached
acorns, providing the
woodpeckers with
protein to complement
the fat.
Tan oak acorn
Page 2
1946, led to the recovery of this gentle species. The Pacific
gray whale population is estimated at about 20,000 today.
The black-tailed deer enter their rut
during this time. The Bear Valley
area is full of this activity in autumn.
Out on the coast, visitors might
catch a glimpse of blue or
humpback whales, as they make a
brief, but unforgettable, appearance
for the fortunate onlooker.
Black-tailed deer
Humpback whale spouting
Migratory birds are winging over the peninsula again. This
year’s fledglings, inexperienced in long-distance travel,
often end up in the Monterey cyprus trees near the ranches
and the lighthouse.
Godwits & willets © Rich Stallcup
Fall is a great time for
hiking and
backpacking. Without
the fickle weather and
high winds of spring,
hikers can rely on
more amenable
conditions. The
summer rush is over
and camping permits
are easier to obtain.
Common Yellowthroat © Susan Farrar
Winter—Blow, West Winds, Blow
Winter storms ravage the coastline, depositing wrack on the
beaches and occasionally causing landslides. But between
storms, some of Point Reyes’ most beautiful days offer ideal
weather for being outdoors. Come prepared for these
capricious conditions.
Another conservation success story, the Northern elephant
seal hauls out on pocket beaches surrounding the Point
Reyes headland in early winter. Females are among the first
to arrive, giving birth to pups conceived during the
previous year’s visit. By the end of the 19th century,
Northern elephant seals had declined to as few as 20,
victims of hunters taking advantage of the seals’
vulnerability during breeding season. Elephant seal
populations are
now estimated at
150,000, thanks
to Mexico’s 1922
seal hunting ban,
which helped
save these
charismatic
giants from
extinction.
Northern elephant seal bull © Susan Farrar
Point Reyes National Seashore Visitor Guide
Poison Oak
Toxicodendron diversilobum
Contact with any part of the poison
oak plant causes a blistering rash.
Generally this can be treated at
home. More severe cases may need
to see a health professional. If you
know you have had contact with
poison oak, thoroughly wash the
affected area as soon as possible to
remove the active oils. Preventative
topical ointements are available to
help avoid reactions to poison oak.
From late December through March, on weekends and
holidays, a shuttle bus is required for transport to whale
and elephant seal observation areas. Inquire at any
visitor center for more details.
In January and February, Coho salmon and Steelhead trout
swim up the creeks from their ocean home to spawn.
Lagunitas and Olema Creeks flash with silver as the
thrashing fish create depressions in the river gravels, called
redds, and lay their
eggs. The males fertilize
the eggs and the
fertilized eggs are
covered by gravels
when the female
scrapes out another
redd just upstream. The
young spend 1—2 years
Coho salmon
in freshwater before
tackling the open ocean, where they spend their adult lives
before returning to spawn. Human activities, such as
logging and dam construction, have impaired and
destroyed fish habitat, leading to a drastic decline in the
species’ numbers. Through
habitat restoration efforts,
stream conditions are
improving and Coho
salmon and Steelhead trout
are returning to many of
their historic spawning
Coho salmon eggs
streams.
Hidden underground, networks of mycorrhizae facilitate
the water and nutrient uptake of trees and plants. These
structures are the result of the integration of fungi with
specialized plant roots. In winter, this hidden process
erupts to the surface when the fungal reproductive
structures—what we call mushrooms—emerge. Hundreds
of mushroom hunters also emerge, seeking delightful
edibles—such as chanterelles and boletus—but also to
simply enjoy the amazing diversity of these often
overlooked beauties. Please use extreme caution as many
mushrooms are not edible and some can be fatal if
consumed.
Winter storm © Al Simms
Winter is far from a dormant season here. Visitors crowd
the lighthouse observation deck to watch for the return of
the Pacific gray whales, usually first seen in December.
Making their annual 10,000—mile roundtrip journey
between Alaska and
Mexico, they are drawn
to the protected, warmwater lagoons of Baja to
bear their calves. By the
1930s, intensive whaling
along the California coast
caused the gray whale
population to dwindle to
a mere 1000 individuals.
A ban on gray whale
hunting adopted in 1937,
and an international
whaling ban signed in
Whale watching at the Lighthouse
Be on the
Lookout for...
Poison oak
Stinging Nettle
Urtica diotica
Bare skin brushing up against a
stinging nettle plant tends to break
delicate defensive hairs on the
leaves and stems that protect the
plant from browsing animals. This
releases a trio of chemicals, usually
resulting in a painful skin rash,
typically lasting less than 24 hours.
A topical analgesic (used to treat
poison oak or bug bites) can be
applied to help alleviate the sting.
Stinging nettle
Deer Ticks
Ticks that carry Lyme disease are
known to occur in this area. Stay on
trails and check your clothing
frequently. The sooner that ticks are
removed, the less the chance of
transmittal of the organism that
causes illness. Wearing lightcolored, long pants helps you spot
them; tuck your pant legs inside
your socks to keep them from
crawling up your legs. Always check
your body completely at the end of
your hike.
actual
size
Just For Kids—Answer Key
Clockwise from top left: Amanita franchetii;
Clavulinopsis corniculata © Dimitar Bojantchev
Melastiza chateri; Inocybe cinnamomea; © Darvin DeShazer
Every season at Point Reyes has a flavor and texture all its
own, leading millions of visitors to return year after year,
to walk the shoreline, hike the trails, explore the forests,
and enjoy the great natural variety of plants, animals, and
landscapes protected here.
Seashore Scavenger Hunt:
Across: 1. Drake 5. Lighthouse 7. Chimney 8.
elephant
Down: 2. Andreas 3. Miwok 4. dairy 6. Tule
Who am I?
1.Tule Elk; Habitat: open grassland and marshes. 2. Brown
pelican; Habitat: prefer shallow inshore waters such as estuaries and
bays; never found more than 20 miles out to sea or inland on fresh
water. 3. California quail; Habitat: open woodlands, brushy foothills,
desert washes, forest edge, chaparral, stream valleys, agricultural
lands, and suburb areas. Cover is needed for roosting, resting, nesting,
escaping from predators, and for protection from the weather.4.
California sea lion; Habitat: mostly water but they will haul out for long
periods of time on rocky shorelines.
Arrowhead Challenge:
1. Plants 2. Animals 3. History 4. Land forms (beautiful scenery)
5. Water resources
Bonus Question: late December through early April with peak
sightings mid—January and mid—March.
Page 3
Human Layers on the Land
O
ver 5,ooo years of human history awaits your
discovery at Point Reyes. More than just a
natural sanctuary, this peninsula holds within its
forested ridges, rolling grasslands, and coastal
expanses the stories of people who came before
us. Their cultures, interactions, and experiences
are echoed in the landscape. These human
layers offer a window into our past and hold the
potential to shape our lives even today.
Coast Miwok—The First People
Coast Miwok people inhabited small family
villages in present-day Marin and Sonoma
Counties for thousands of years. They enjoyed
a rich economy
based on
gathering,
fishing, and
hunting. At
the time of
European
contact, an
estimated 3,000
to 5,000 Coast
Miwok lived in
Coast Miwok in Regalia
the area.
Acorns, a nutritious starchy seed, were a favored
staple of the Coast Miwok. A family of four
ate about 500 pounds of acorns a year. Acorns,
collected in autumn, were stored in granaries, and
later prepared
and cooked
by the women.
Miwok women
also gathered and
prepared plant
materials, such as
willow, hazel, lupine
and sedge, for making
baskets. Many of these
beautiful baskets are now
in museum collections
around the world.
Coast Miwok Basket
Miwok men made at least two types of arrows,
one long and one short. The longer was used
for deer and bear, and the shorter for accuracy.
Tips were made from manzanita wood, obsidian,
and other stone. Sinew was used to attach three
feather fletchings and the point.
Early Explorers—
Missionaries and Privateers
The home of the Coast Miwok
people remained undiscovered
by Europeans until a quest for
new land and riches brought
European explorers to the
California coast in the
late 1500s. In 1579, the
English privateer,
Francis Drake, became
the first European to
land in present-day
California. Thought
to have careened
his ship, the
Golden
Hind, into
an estuary
along the
Point Reyes
Sir Francis Drake © National Archives
peninsula
to make repairs, Drake camped along a nearby
beach which today bears his name. He claimed
this new land for Queen Elizabeth, before
completing a circumnavigation of the globe.
Trade routes led Spanish galleons past Point
Reyes and in 1595, the wreck of Sebastian
Cermeño’s galleon, the San Agustin, became the
first recorded shipwreck here. On January 6, 1603,
Sebastian Vizcaiño sighted the headlands on the
feast day of the Epiphany. Vizcaiño named the
point “la Punta de los tres Reyes”-the Point of the
Three Kings-to honor the three wise men.
Franciscan missionaries arrived overland in 1775
and changed the traditional life of the Coast
Miwok forever. Disease, malnutrition, cultural
loss, and depression destroyed 90% of the Miwok
population in less than 100 years.
The mission fathers released large herds of feral
cattle, which grazed as far west as Point Reyes.
Secularization of the missions followed Mexican
independence from Spain and led to land grants
that divided the peninsula and expanded cattle
ranching. The expansive coastal prairie that
early ranchers found here was partly the result of
Coast Miwok burning practices over more than
two millennia.
Ranching by the Sea
In 1849, a wave of immigrants came west in
search of gold. Settlers on the Point Reyes
peninsula found their fortune not in nuggets
of precious metal, but in great golden wheels of
cheese and casks of butter made for the growing
city of San Francisco.
The cool, moist climate of Point Reyes was
ideal for dairy ranching: plenty of grass, a long
growing season, and abundant fresh water. The
1880 History of Marin County remarked of Point
Reyes, “The grass growing in
the fields on Monday
is butter on
the city tables
the following
Sunday.”
Although the
peninsula
was granted to
Mexican settlers,
their claims were
often disputed.
Eventually, a San
Francisco law
firm, Shafter,
Shafter, Park,
and Heydenfeldt established
ownership.
They sold the northernmost tip to Solomon
Pierce and divided the rest into tenant dairies,
largely run by new immigrants. The ranches were
designated alphabetically: “A” Ranch-closest
to the Lighthouse-through “Z” Ranch-on the
summit of Mt. Wittenberg. Park headquarters
and Bear Valley Visitor Center stand at the site of
“W” ranch. Point Reyes dairies set the standard
for product quality and soon were producing
record yields of butter and cheese. In 1919, the
Shafter firm sold the tenant ranches, and many
immigrant families bought the land they had
worked so diligently.
Light Keepers, Lifesavers
and the Age of Wireless Radio
Gold-miners, dairy farmers, and lumbermen
counted on safe passage through the waters
offshore of Point Reyes to transport valuable
goods to and from the booming port of
San Francisco. Jutting ten miles out into
the ocean and plagued by treacherous
currents, thick fog, and punishing
winds, the sheer granite
headlands of the Point
Reyes provided a deadly
challenge to even the
most skilled sailor.
Recognizing the severity
of these conditions, the
U.S. Lighthouse Board
constructed the Point
Reyes Lighthouse in 1870.
With its revolutionary
first order Frenchmade Fresnel lens
and mechanism,
this beacon helped
provide safe passage
and served as an aid to
navigation.
Point Reyes Lighthouse E. Muybridge
Point Reyes National Seashore Visitor Guide
In addition to tending the light, keepers in 1870 had
to wash the lens, polish brass, and, at foggy times,
stoke the furnace with coal for the steam-powered
fog signal. Keepers often responded to shipwrecks
and risked their lives to rescue others from the
raging seas and deadly cliffs below the lighthouse.
A the end of each shift, they had to ascend nearly
300 feet along a wooden stairway, often in howling
winds, to reach the comfort of their homes.
Loneliness and depression were constant
companions, and many drank alcohol, though it
was forbidden. A San Francisco Chronicle writer
noted that one keeper was “notorious for his love
of the flowing bowl. It is said that he even regaled
himself when out of whiskey with the alcohol
furnished for cleaning lamps…”
Lifesavers at work
Despite the heroics of lighthouse keepers, ships
continued to founder along the rocky shores of
Point Reyes. In response, the first lifesaving station
was established in 1889 on the Great Beach, north
of the lighthouse. Like the lighthouse keepers,
lifesavers endured grueling and dangerous
conditions. They walked the beach day and night
in four-hour shifts through bone chilling fog
and fierce winds watching for shipwrecks and
passengers in need of rescue from the frigid waters
and powerful currents. Even their weekly drills
were dangerous requiring the seamen to launch the
lifeboat through the pounding surf twice a week.
The severity of that risk resonates through the Life
Saving Service motto—“Ye have to go out but ye
don’t have to come in.”
In 1927, a new station was built along the protected
shores of Drakes Bay, proving to be more efficient
and less daunting. The new life-saving station
was equipped with motorized boats, which were
launched from the boathouse on rails.
Though many successful rescues took place
along the treacherous headlands at Point Reyes,
several boatmen did not survive drills and rescues
in such threatening waters. The Life-Saving
Service Cemetery near the historic G Ranch
commemorates four men whose lives were lost
while on duty at Point Reyes.
Beginning in 1913, Guglielmo Marconi pioneered a
wireless radio communication facility in the Point
Reyes area, establishing a telegraphy transmitting
station in Bolinas and a receiving station in
Marshall, along Tomales
Bay. Together, these
stations formed
“KPH”, the most
successful and
powerful shipto-shore and land
station on the Pacific
Rim. The Marshall
station was replaced
in 1929 by a new Art
Deco style facility on
the G Ranch at Point
Reyes. The entrance
is marked by two
rows of Monterey
cypress trees that
still line the driveway
today.
Guglielmo Marconi © National Archives
Page 4
Creation of a National Seashore
As early as 1929, Californians were concerned
about the fate of their coastline. Development
had swallowed most of the eastern seaboard,
and plans were being made for the west coast.
Congressional reports recommended the creation
of a system of national seashores both, to protect
these vanishing landscapes and to provide public
access to beaches.
When we look up and down the
ocean fronts of America, we find
that they are passing behind the
fences of private ownership. The
people can no longer get to the
ocean...
Harold Ickes, Interior Secretary 1933-1946
In 1953, the first national seashore was established
at Cape Hatteras, on the dynamic barrier island
system off the North Carolina coast. Local, state,
and federal advocates for protection of the Point
Reyes peninsula were encouraged by this success.
However, Drakes Bay Estates, with proposed
development of over 400 housing units, began
construction near Limantour Beach in 1956,
lending urgency to the conservationists’ battle.
Development at Point Reyes
In the late 1950’s, legislation was first proposed
to establish a national seashore at Point Reyes.
When he took office, President John F. Kennedy
announced two conservation agendas: the
creation of national seashores, including Point
Reyes National Seashore, and the adoption
of the Wilderness Bill. Key players in these
struggles were President Kennedy’s Interior
Secretary Stewart Udall, Sierra Club executive
director David Brower, California Congressional
Representatives Claire Engle and Clem Miller,
and author Harold Gilliam, among many others.
In August of 1961, a second national seashore
was established at Cape Cod in Massachusetts,
gaining further momentum for the Point Reyes
cause. The 1962 Sierra Club publication of
Gilliam’s book, Island in Time, brought muchneeded publicity and a poetic voice to the
campaign to protect Point Reyes. David Brower
distributed a copy to every member of the 87th
Congress.
Congressional floor debates took place during
the summer of 1962, as battles waged over
incorporation of ranches and other private
property into the seashore. The intense effort
finally ended with the passage of S. 476 and on
September 13, 1962, President Kennedy signed
“The Point Reyes Authorization Act.”
On October 20, 1966, Lady Bird Johnson and
Interior Secretary Stewart Udall came to Point
Reyes to dedicate the park. In her dedication
speech, Lady Bird warned that “the growing
needs of an urban America are quickening the
tick of the conservation clock.” She called Point
Reyes “a bright star in the galaxy of conservation
achievements of the 1960s.”
The Seashore Today
Congress authorized the National Park Service to
purchase the ranches, which were leased back to
the existing ranchers. Currently, thirteen ranches
operate in the park, and continue to provide
fresh, healthy food for the local community and
the nation. Black and white Holstein cows are
raised on seven ranches. Black Angus and the
brown and white Hereford breed are raised on six
beef ranches. The National Park Service and the
ranchers act as stewards - protecting the natural
landscape and the cultural history of ranching.
The historic Pierce Ranch at Tomales Point offers
a self-guided walking tour of what was once Point
Reyes’ premiere dairy.
Maritime history is preserved as well. Though
replaced with an automated light in 1975, the
Historic Point Reyes Lighthouse still stands,
offering visitors a glimpse into the life and work
of a 19th century keeper. The Historic Lifeboat
Station at Chimney Rock has been restored,
complete with the last intact marine railway on
the west coast. The home of KPH wireless radio at
the G Ranch, though also out of service, remains
intact, functional, and used for ceremonial
occasions by former RCA key operators today.
Though newer technology has eclipsed the need
for these installations, the park cares
for these sites to preserve a piece of
maritime history and honor the lives
of those who kept vigilant watch
over this coast for over
130 years.
We Are Still Here
To gain tribal rights, the modern Miwok people,
consisting of more than 1,000 descendents,
retraced their family trees to redefine and
rediscover their cultural and historic lifeways.
After 30 years of research and
documentation by the tribe, President Clinton
granted the Coast Miwok
federal recognition in
2000. They are known
today as the Federated
Indians of Graton
Rancheria.
Point Reyes National
Seashore in
partnership
with the Miwok
Archeological
Preserve of Marin,
community
volunteers,
and Coast Miwok people,
constructed and maintain
a recreation of a Coast
Miwok village called Kule
Loklo. Located near the Bear
Valley Visitor Center, this
site honors the “old way” of
the first people. It is a place to
remember their great struggle;
it is a reminder that they are
still here.
Today, Point Reyes National Seashore serves
as a model for land stewardship and resource
protection. Providing a needed escape from
crowded urban areas, it is a place to remember
our connection to the land. It is also a place to
reflect on the many ancestors that have left their
mark here, and to contemplate how best to ensure
the protection of this special place in the future.
Lady Bird Johnson at the 1966 dedication of Point Reyes National Seashore
Support Your Park
Point Reyes National
Seashore Association
Point Reyes National Seashore relies on
community partnerships to accomplish its
mission. You can get involved by becoming
a volunteer or by supporting the Point Reyes
National Seashore Association.
Volunteer-In-Parks
Get involved by
volunteering your time
and talents to Point Reyes
National Seashore. As a
volunteer you can:
•Help combat invasive,
non-native plants
•Restore stream habitat
for Coho salmon and
Steelhead trout; monitor spawning success
•Educate seashore visitors about elephant seals,
whales, snowy plovers, and tule elk
•Assist researchers by monitoring tule elk
and harbor seal populations
Point Reyes National Seashore Visitor Guide
Elk docent and visitor at Tomales Point
•Perform trail maintenance
•Patrol the park on foot, horseback, or kayak
•Help catalogue and manage the Seashore’s
museum collection
•Collect native grass seeds and re-vegetate
restoration areas
•Orient and identify points of interest to visitors at
a seashore visitor center
•Help preserve Native American culture by
maintaining the Kule Loklo cultural exhibit
Please visit www.nps.gov/volunteer/ for
additional volunteer opportunities and to apply.
The Point Reyes National Seashore Association
(PRNSA) is the parks non-profit partner
organization that supports park programs through
fundraising, bookstore sales, memberships, and
education. Yo