Natchez Trace

Natchez Trace Parkway National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Natchez Trace Parkway Alabama, Mississippi, Tennessee Sunlight filters through trees along a section of the original trace at milepost 41.5. This is t h e story of people on t h e move, of t h e age-old need t o get f r o m one place t o another. It is t h e story of Natchez, Chickasaw, and Choctaw Indians f o l l o w i n g traditional ways of life, o f French and Spanish people venturing into a w o r l d new t o t h e m , and o f people b u i l d i n g a n e w n a t i o n . A t first t h e trace was probably a series of hunters' paths t h a t slowly came t o f o r m a trail f r o m t h e Mississippi River over t h e l o w hills into t h e valley of the Tennessee River. By 1733 t h e French k n e w t h e land well enough t o map it and showed an Indian trail r u n n i n g f r o m Natchez t o the northeast. By 1785 Ohio River valley farmers seeking markets had begun t o f l o a t their crops and products d o w n t h e rivers t o Natchez or New Orleans. Because they sold their f latboats f o r lumber, r e t u r n i n g h o m e meant either riding or w a l k i n g . The trail f r o m Natchez was t h e most direct. Growing numbers of travelers t r a m p e d t h e crude trail into a clearly marked path. By 1810 years of improvements had made t h e trace an i m p o r t a n t wilderness road, t h e most heavily traveled in t h e Old S o u t h w e s t . As t h e road was i m p r o v e d , o t h e r c o m f o r t s came t o t h e trace. People b u i l t inns, locally called stands. By 1820 over 20 stands w e r e in o p e r a t i o n , most providing only basic f o o d and shelter. M o u n t Locust and Gordon House w e r e substantial, w e l l - k n o w n establishments. Even w i t h developments t h e trace was not free of discomforts. Thieves added danger t o a catalog of hazards—swamps, floods, disease-carrying insects, and sometimes u n f r i e n d l y Indians. A new era in t r a n s p o r t a t i o n d a w n e d w h e n t h e steamer New Orleans arrived in Natchez in January 1812. Soon steamboats w e r e calling regularly at St. Louis, Nashville, and Louisville. Travelers p r e f e r r e d s t e a m b o a t travel's speed a n d comparative safety t o t h e slow pace of g o i n g overland. Before long t h e bustling trace had become a peaceful forest lane. These parklands preserve i m p o r t a n t examples of our nation's natural and cultural h e r i t a g e . Started in t h e late 1930s, t h e m o d e r n Natchez Trace Parkway parallels t h e old trace. In 1995 t h e National Scenic Byways Program recognized t h e parkway's historic significance and scenic qualities, designating it an A l l American Road. Today t h e completed parkway gives travelers an unhurried route f r o m Natchez t o Nashville. Milepost Gazetteer The milepost numbering system begins at Natchez, milepost 0, the southern terminus. It ends near Nashville at milepost 444, the northern terminus. Mileposts are on the parkway's east side. Points of interest or visitor services are noted on this brochure to the nearest tenth of a mile. On the map (other side of this brochure) mileposts are noted every fifth mile and labeled in pink every tenth mile. The 155-foot-high Double Arch Bridge (top), near the parkway's northern terminus, passes over Tenn. 96. Meriwether Lewis Monument (center) is at milepost 385.9. Cypress Swamp self-guiding trail (bottom) is just north of Jackson, at milepost 122. Part of the self-guiding trail follows this boardwalk. Mount Locust stand (top) at milepost 15.5 has been restored. It was one of the trace's earliest and most well-known inns. River Bend (bottom) is at milepost 122.6. 444.0 Northern Terminus. Intersection with Tenn. 100. 438.0 Birdsong Hollow. Completed in 1994, this double-arched bridge received the Presidential Award for Design Excellence in 1995. 427.6 Garrison Creek. Named for a nearby 1801-02 U.S. Army post. Area is a trailhead for horseback riders and hikers. 426.3 Old Trace. The U.S. Army cleared this section in 1801-02 and continued southward with consent of the Chickasaw Nation. 425.4 Burns Branch. 423.9 Tennessee Valley Divide. When Tennessee joined the Union in 1796 this was the boundary between the United States to the north and the Chickasaw Nation to the south. 411.8 Water Valley Overlook. 407.7 Gordon House Historic Site. From 1801 until traffic on the trace declined, the Gordons ran a ferry across Duck River here. The house was built about 1818. 405.1 Baker Bluff Overlook. 404.7 Jackson Falls. Named for Andrew Jackson, the falls are on the intermittent Jackson Branch that empties into Duck River. 403.7 Old Trace. Take a pleasant walk on a 2,000-foot section of the original trace. 401.4 Tobacco Farm. Exhibits explain tobacco growing. A two-mile drive along the old trace begins here. The road is not accessible for travel trailers or low-clearance vehicles. 400.2 Sheboss Place. A stand (inn) stood here. 397.4 Old Trace. Here the trace marked the boundary of Chickasaw lands ceded to the United States in 1805 and 1816. 394 Devils Backbone State Natural Area. Not accessible for RVs. 392.5 Swan View Overlook. 391.9 Fall Hollow. Short walk to a waterfall. 390.7 Phosphate Mine. 385.9 Meriwether Lewis. Campground, picnic area, restrooms, ranger station, and grave of Meriwether Lewis of Lewis and Clark fame. 382.8 Metal Ford. Travelers crossed the Buffalo River here; an ironworks and McLish's stand were nearby. 381.8 Napier Mine. Miners worked this open pit mine in the 1800s. 377.8 Jacks Branch. Picnic area, restrooms. 375.8 Old Trace Drive. A 21/2-mile road follows the original trace route. Not for travel trailers. 367.3 Dogwood Mudhole. The often impassable mudhole lies nearly a mile to the south. 364.5 Glenrock Branch. Picnic area, restrooms. 363.0 Sweetwater Branch. Self-guiding trail. A fast-flowing stream parallels this 20-minute walk; seasonal wildflowers. 352.9 McGlamery Stand. Village bears the name of the stand that stood nearby. 350.5 Sunken Trace. Three sections of the original road show how the route was relocated to avoid mudholes. 346.2 Holly. Picnic area. 343.5 Cypress Creek. Picnic area. 341.8 Tennessee-Alabama state line. 330.2 Rock Spring. A walk on this trail along Colbert Creek takes about 20-minutes. 328.7 Lauderdale. Picnic area. 328.6-327.8 John Coffee Memorial Bridge. Span crosses Pickwick Lake formed by Pickwick Landing Dam on the Tennessee River. 327.3 Colbert Ferry. Chickasaw George Colbert operated a stand and ferry in the early 1800s. Information (seasonal), fishing, boat launch, bike-only primitive campground, restrooms. 320.3 Buzzard Roost Spring. Chickasaw Levi Colbert owned a stand nearby. Exhibits. A short trail leads to Buzzard Roost spring. 317.0 Freedom Hills Overlook. A steep, %-mile trail leads to Alabama's highest point on the parkway, 800 feet. 313.0 Bear Creek. Picnic area. 308.9 Alabama-Mississippi state line. 308.8 Bear Creek Mound. This ceremonial structure was built between 1200 and 1400. 308.4 Cave Spring. A natural cave probably used by American Indians. 304.5 Tishomingo State Park. The park is named for a Chickasaw medicine man. Camping, picnicking, swimming, canoeing, fishing. 293.4 Bay Springs Lake. Lake and dam access. 293.2 Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway and Jamie L. Whitten Bridge. The waterway makes 459 miles navigable between the Gulf of Mexico and the Tennessee River. The U.S. Army Corps of Engineers administers the waterway and nearby visitor center. 286.7 Pharr Mounds. This 90-acre complex of eight burial mounds was built from about 1,800 to 2,000 years ago. Restrooms. 283.3 Donivan Slough. Self-guiding trail. Allow 20 minutes to walk through an area where occasional flooding influences plant varieties. 278.4 Twentymile Bottom Overlook. Area along the stream typifies the landscape of the old trace. Not for travel trailers. 275.2 Dogwood Valley. Self-guiding trail. Allow 15 minutes to walk among the dogwood trees. 269.4 Confederate Gravesites and Old Trace. A short walk leads to the graves of 13 unknown Confederate soldiers. 266.0 Parkway Visitor Center (parkway headquarters). A self-guiding trail goes through forest regrowth; allow about 20-minutes. Exhibits, information, orientation program, restrooms. You can reach Brices Cross Roads National Battlefield Site from here via Miss. 145 north to Miss. 370 west. 263.9 Old Town Overlook. Views of Old Town Creek and its floodplain. 261.8 Chickasaw Village Site. Exhibits portray daily life and history at the Chickasaw village that stood here. A self-guiding trail features plants used by the Chickasaw. 259.7 Tupelo National Battlefield. The 1864 battle took place one mile east on Miss. 6. 251.9 Black Belt Overlook. This once-vast prairie has rich, black soil. 251.1 Chickasaw Council House. Here was Pontatok, capital of the Chickasaw Nation in the 1820s. Picnic area. 249.6 Tockshish. John Mcintosh settled here in 1770. After the Natchez Trace was declared a National Post Road in 1800, the stand became the midway point where post riders from Natchez and Nashville met up, exchanged mailbags, and returned. 245.6 Monroe Mission. Chickasaw learned trades at the mission. Picnic area. 243.3 Hernando de Soto. The Spanish explorer spent the 1540-41 winter near here. 243.1 Davis Lake. Access point to U.S. Forest Service picnicking and summer camping area. 241.4 Chickasaw Agency. Agency for the Chickasaw was located here 1801-1825. 233.2 Witch Dance. Horse trail access, bike-only primitive campground, picnicking, restrooms. 232.4 Bynum Mounds. Prehistoric people built these mounds between 2,100 and 1,800 years ago. Exhibits. 221.4 Old Trace. See part of the original trace. 214.5 Dancy. Ranger station. 213.3 Line Creek. Boundary between lands of the Chickasaw and Choctaw tribes. 203.5 Pigeon Roost. Nathaniel and David Folsom ran Folsom's stand and trading post near here. Millions of passenger pigeons, now extinct, roosted here. 201.3 Ballard Creek. Picnic area. 198.6 Old Trace. Part of the original roadway leads into the woods. 193.1 Jeff Busby. Picnic area, campground, restrooms. Allow 20 minutes to hike a self-guiding trail or drive to one of Mississippi's highest points, 603 feet. 180.7 French Camp. Louis LeFleur established a stand here in 1812. It opened as a school in 1822, which is still in operation. Sorghum syrup is made here in the fall. 176.3 Bethel Mission. One of 13 Choctaw missions; it was one-half mile to the northwest. Picnic area. 175.6 Cole Creek. Short, self-guiding trail through a water tupelo/bald-cypress swamp. 164.3 Hurricane Creek. A short, self-guiding walk identifies plants found in different soil conditions. 160.0 Information Center. Kosciusko chamber of commerce volunteers provide travel information for the parkway and local area. 159.7 Kosciusko. Ranger station. 154.3 Holly Hill. Picnic area, restrooms. 145.1 Myrick Creek. Self-guiding trail. Take 10 minutes to learn about the beavers here. 140.0 Red Dog Road. Named for a Choctaw chief, the road was opened in 1834. 135.5 Robinson Road. Dating from 1821 this road connected Jackson and Columbus, Miss. Picnic area. 130.9 Yockanookany. Quiet rest stop. 128.4 Upper Choctaw Boundary. Self-guiding trail. Allow 10 minutes to walk in area that features southern pines. A row of trees marks this dividing line. 122.6 River Bend. Picnic area, restrooms. 122.0 Cypress Swamp. Self-guiding trail. Allow 20 minutes to walk through a water tupelo/bald-cypress swamp. 107.9 West Florida Boundary. This old boundary ran from the Yazoo and Mississippi rivers' confluence east to the Chattahoochee River. 106.9 Boyd Site. These burial mounds were built from 900 to 1,200 years ago. 105.6 Reservoir Overlook. Ross Barnett Reservoir on the Pearl River parallels the parkway for eight miles. 104.5 Brashears Stand and Old Trace Site. The stand was advertised in 1806 as "a house of entertainment in the wilderness." Part of the original trace is nearby. 102.4 Parkway Information Cabin (seasonal). Information, exhibits, restrooms. Allow 20 minutes to an hour to explore the trail. 100.7 Choctaw Agency. From 1807 until after 1820, a brick structure here housed an agent who served as a liaison between the U.S. government and the Choctaw Nation. 93.1 Osburn Stand. Noble Osburn opened a stand here in 1811. By the early 1820s, when the city of Jackson was founded, traffic shifted away from this part of the old trace. 88.1 Cowles Mead Cemetery. Much of Mississippi's history can be traced though the life of Cowles Mead, a stand owner along the old trace and acting territorial governor (1806). 78.3 Battle of Raymond. This 1863 Civil War battle of the Vicksburg campaign was fought nearby. 73.5 Dean Stand Site. Site served travelers in the 1820s-30s. Nearby is the site of Dillon's Plantation, May 1863 Vicksburg campaign headquarters for U.S. generals Grant and Sherman in the Civil War. 61.0 Lower Choctaw Boundary. This line divided—north and south—lands taken by new settlers of the Mississippi country from lands of the Choctaw Nation. 54.8 Rocky Springs. A short trail from the upper parking area leads to the old townsite. Camping, picnicking, ranger station, restrooms, phone, and part of the old trace. 52.4 Owens Creek Waterfall. Picnicking, hiking. 45.7 Grindstone Ford/Mangum Mound. Northbound travelers considered themselves in wild country once they crossed the ford on Bayou Pierre. Artifacts tell of prehistoric people who lived in this area. 41.5 Sunken Trace. Self-guiding trail. Allow five minutes to walk through a deeply eroded section of the original trace (see photo at top). 39.2 Port Gibson. Ranger station. 18.4 Bullen Creek. A 15-minute, self-guiding trail goes through a hardwood-pine forest. 17.5 Coles Creek. Picnic area, restrooms. 15.5 Mount Locust. Interpretive programs available February through November at this restored historic stand, one of the first in Mississippi. Exhibits, ranger station, restrooms. 12.4 Loess Bluff. Deposits of topsoil (loess) were blown here during the ice ages. 12.1 Turpin Creek. Picnic area. 10.3 Emerald Mound. Natchez ancestors built this ceremonial mound—nearly eight acres— about 1400. A trail leads to the top. 8.7 Old Trace Exhibit Shelter. See the old trace. 5.1 Elizabeth Female Academy Site. Founded in 1818, this was the first school for women chartered by the state of Mississippi. Campgrounds All campgrounds are first-come, first-served. No reservations are accepted. Camping is limited to 14 consecutive days and 30 days parkwide per calendar year. There are no hookups or bathhouses. Each campground has restrooms. Some campgrounds are for bicyclists only (see map on other side of brochure). For details visit: www.nps.gov/natr. Meriwether Lewis Site (milepost 385.9) On October 11, 1809, at Grinder Stand, Meriwether Lewis of the Lewis and Clark expedition (1804-06) and governor of Upper Louisiana Territory died of gunshot wounds. The monument, designed as a broken shaft, marks his grave. The area has a 32-site campground, pioneer cemetery, picnic tables, ranger station, exhibits, restrooms, and trails. Jeff Busby Site (milepost 193.1) The campground is named for Thomas Jefferson Busby, the Mississippi U.S. Congressman who introduced a bill that resulted in the 1934 act authorizing a survey of the Old Natchez Trace. In 1938 the Natchez Trace Parkway was authorized as a unit of the National Park System. Area includes an 18-site campground, picnic tables, trails, exhibits, restrooms, and an overlook atop Little Mountain, one of Mississippi's highest points on the parkway, 603 feet. Rocky Springs Site (milepost 54.8) In the 1790s the rich soil and many springs attracted new settlers to the area. They cleared the land, built homes, and, in 1837, built an impressive brick church. By 1860 Rocky Springs was a prosperous community of 2,616 people. Several owned property valued at $50,000 to $100,000. The community had a Methodist church, post office. Masonic lodge, and several stores. Between 1860 and 1920 the area was devastated by the Civil War, yellow fever, boll weevil, and land erosion. Today only the church, cemetery, t w o rusting safes, and abandoned cisterns mark the townsite. The area includes a 22-site campground, picnic tables, restrooms, horseback riding, self-guiding trails through the townsite and to the spring, and a hiking trail on the old trace. Jeff Busby S i t e Rocky Springs Site Milepost 54.8 Milepost 193.1 0.5 Kilometer Activities, Services, and Facilities Chart Numbers in the chart (right) refer to mileposts along the parkway. Use the map on the other side of this brochure to pinpoint these locations. Hiking Trails 54.8 59.3 114.8 122.6 193.1 233.2 266.0 304.5 394.0 408.0 416.4 423.9 425.4 426.3 427.6 Restrooms Spring wildflowers may seem similar, but look closely. Dogwood trees produce a canopy of four-petaled flowers high in their branches. Tiny bloodroot flowers (above) grow just inches above the forest floor. History Exhibits 5.1 15.5 54.8 61.0 78.3 88.1 107.9 135.5 18.4 54.8 122.0 128.4 145.1 164.3 175.6 10.3 45.7 61.0 100.7 106.9 128.4 203.5 204.1 213.3 232.4 350.5 352.9 367.3 369.9 375.8 382.8 385.9 397.4 400.2 401.4 403.7 15.5* 266.0* 17.5* 286.7 327.3* 54.8* 364.5* 102.4* 122.6* 377.8* 385.9 154.3* 404.7 160.0 407.7 193.1* 427.6* 233.2* *Accessible Sanitary Station Nature Exhibits 8.1 41.1 243.1 260.0 12.4 52.4 145.1 193.1 286.3 261.8 266.0 275.2 283.3 330.2 363.0 407.7 Information 0 15.5 54.8 89.3 102.4 160.0 193.1 214.5 266.0 327.3 385.9 12.1 17.5 21.7 23.6 52.4 54.8 73.5 122.6 135.5 154.3 160.0 176.3 193.1 201.3 233.2 243.1 245.6 251.1 241.4 245.6 249.6 251.1 261.8 263.9 286.7 308.8 320.3 397.3 Public Campgrounds 263.6 8.1 41.1 293.0 54.8 304.5 193.1 369.9 243.1 385.9 260.0 Picnic Areas Indian History Old Trace Exhibits 8.7 41.5 45.7 54.8 73.5 93.1 104.5 198.6 221.4 269.4 327.3 263.6 293.0 304.5 369.9 Self-guiding Trails 140.0 193.1 243.3 259.7 266.0 341.8 381.8 385.9 293.4 304.5 313.0 327.3 328.7 343.5 346.2 364.5 372.8 377.8 385.9 404.7 411.8 425.4 426.3 427.6 Water Recreation 308.4 320.3 401.4 404.7 105.6 123.8 243.1 293.4 303.9 327.3 Visitor Information Crimson clover adds a bright accent along the Natchez Trace Parkway. Your Safety and Regulations • Obey posted speed limits. Watch for animals on the parkway. • Avoid fatigue; stop often and take walks. • Special hauling restrictions apply. Business vehicles and trucks over oneton-rated capacity are prohibited. • Hunting is prohibited. • Tent and trailer camping are permitted only at designated campgrounds. • Build fires only in fireplaces. • Fire ants can inflict painful bites; do not disturb their mounds. • Poison ivy grows here; do not touch its leaves, roots, or vines. • Be alert for copperheads, cottonmouths, or rattlesnakes; don't put your hands or feet in places you can't see. • Natchez Trace Parkway is a designated bike route. Watch for cyclists. • All natural, historical, and archeological objects are protected by federal law. • Report accidents, fires, or emergencies to a park ranger. Emergencies: call 1-800-300-PARK (7275). Accommodations and Services There are no motels or gas stations on the parkway; find them in nearby towns. Contact chambers of commerce about lodging, restaurants, medical care, and other services. The Natchez National Historical Park Visitor Center, 640 South Canal Street, Natchez, Miss., is the city's official welcome center. More Information Natchez Trace Parkway 2680 Natchez Trace Parkway Tupelo, MS 38804-9718 662-680-4027 or 1-800-305-7417 www.nps.gov/natr (parkway) www.nps.gov/natt (Natchez Trace National Scenic Trail) Natchez Trace Parkway is one of over 390 parks in the National Park System. Learn about national parks and National Park Service programs at www.nps.gov. t>GPO: 2009—349-224/80331 Reprint 2009 Printed on recycled paper. Natchez Trace Parkway