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Park News & Guide
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Issue 25/2015-2016
COURTESY NASA/JET
PROPULSION LABORATORY--CALTECH
Mojave National Preserve
Black Canyon campground with a sky added from an astrophoto
A Head Start for Endangered Tortoises?
By Phillip Gomez
NPS/KNIGHTEN
An unpretentious little building surrounded by a security fence just off Ivanpah
Road near the northeast entrance to
Mojave National Preserve has an ambitious purpose: to improve the chances of
baby desert tortoises to survive to maturity
and to produce vital offspring.
The cryptic lives of tortoises—spent
predominantly in underground burrows—
and the many years that it takes for them
to reach sexual maturity and to reproduce
have made it difficult for conservation
biologists to conduct field studies.
For this long-term research project,
juvenile tortoises are being “recruited”
over a 20-year period and nurtured in this
facility until they are capable of joining the
Ivanpah Valley’s population with a reasonable chance for survival. The idea for
this experiment in wildlife management,
entitled Desert Tortoise Juvenile Survivorship at Mojave National Preserve—or
Head Start to researchers—is similar to the
principle underlying children’s nursery
schooling: giving kids a head start in life.
Welcome to Mojave National Preserve.
We are glad you have made the decision
to spend some of your time exploring
and discovering the treasures of the
Mojave Desert.
NPS/GOMEZ
So, the National Park Service, together
with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service,
Chevron Corp., Molycorp Inc., and two
universities have partnered to create a
working facility to try to gain a better
understanding of tortoise behavior that
affects their survival. The Ivanpah Desert
Research Facility is staffed by a small team
of faculty and Ph.D. candidates from the
Savannah River Ecology Laboratory of
the University of Georgia and from the
University of California, Davis.
Welcome to Mojave!
Two yearling tortoise siblings explore their enclosure. The smaller one follows “big brother,” who
became sick and was taken inside for the winter.
In the case of the tortoise, the goal is to
gain time for the reptile’s shell to develop
and harden to make the young reptiles
safe from predators. Adult tortoises with
hardened shells have few predators, but
juveniles are extremely vulnerable for the
first four or five years of life.
a small percentage make it to adulthood,”
Hughson said.
“It’s all about the predation,” says Debra
Hughson, the Preserve’s chief of science
and resource stewardship. “The purpose
of Head Start is to allow them to survive.”
How many tortoises are there in the Preserve? “Nobody knows exactly, but only
Once numerous in the Mojave, the desert
tortoise began experiencing loss of natural
habitat from a variety of sources by the
late 1980s: exurban sprawl, overgrazing
by livestock, poaching, invasive plants,
development of highways and dirt roads,
and expanding use of off-road recreational
vehicles. The degradation and fragmentation of habitat create barriers for the slowmoving tortoise in its search for food and
water and also bring danger from motorists and off-roaders. Eggs of the unborn
are sometimes trampled. Also, the lives of
many are cut short by an upper-respiratory
disease, possibly introduced into the desert
by sick pet tortoises that were turned loose
by their owners.
This, coupled with the late maturity of the
tortoise, which can take 18 to 20 years to
reach breeding age, makes for long odds in
the game of survival in the desert.
Tortoise numbers have diminished by as
much as 90 percent in some areas of the
Mojave, according to Hughson.
NPS COLLECTION
In August 1989, the California Fish and
Game Commission listed the desert tortoise (Gopherus agassizii) as a threatened
species under the U.S. Endangered Species
Act of 1973. The U.S. Fish and Wildlife
Service followed suit with federal protection in 1991.
The Preserve was created in 1994 under
the California Desert Protection Act, federal legislation that was intended to protect
remaining California desert wild lands.
The act called for large-scale management
of the Mojave bioregion west of the Colorado River in conjunction with Joshua Tree
and Death Valley national parks, as well as
the Bureau of Land Management (BLM).
continued on page 5
You have chosen a special time to visit
us—one of the more than 400 sites
within the National Park Service—because
we have begun celebrating 100 years
of sharing America’s special places and
helping Americans to make meaningful
connections with nature, history, and
culture. The National Park Service was
established in 1916 to oversee the
administration of these special places.
As part of its centennial, the National Park
Service is inviting a new generation to
discover the special places that belong to
us all. We are encouraging new audiences
and people not familiar with the National
Park Service and public lands to find their
park. Many people visit Mojave National
Preserve the traditional way, in person. We
also invite you to explore and discover the
Preserve through our social media sites,
including our webpage and Facebook site
and via Twitter. Over the next two years,
we will be increasing the content that we
have on our social media sites in an effort
to reach out to new audiences and to
bring more visitors to the Preserve.
The national parks are America’s best
idea, and we want all Americans to help
us celebrate these special places. You can
help us do this. Share your experience
with others by talking with your friends
and neighbors about what you saw or
did while here and post it to social media
using #FindYourPark or FindYourPark.com
Enjoy the peace of the desert environment,
find yourself, and FindYourPark.
Todd J. Suess
Superintendent
Essential Information…2
Exploring Mojave...3
Camping…6
Hiking…7
Mojave National Preserve Map…8
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Desert Safety Tips
THE MAIN CAUSE OF DEATH IN MOJAVE
Mojave National Preserve
Established in 1994, Mojave National
Preserve encompasses 1.6 million acres
ranging in elevation from 800’ near
Baker to 7,929’ at Clark Mountain.
Although most of the park lies in the
Mojave Desert, the southeast section
grades into the Sonoran Desert, and
elements of the Great Basin Desert are
found at higher elevations east of the
Granite, Providence, and New York
mountains.
Superintendent
Todd J. Suess
Chief Ranger
John A. Piastuck
More people die in single-car accidents
due to speeding than by any other
means. Reduce your speed.
DO NOT DEPEND ON A GPS NAVIGATION
SYSTEM
GPS maps of remote areas, including
Mojave National Preserve, are notoriously unreliable. Carry a folding map.
CARRY AND DRINK PLENTY OF WATER
Carry a minimum of a gallon per person
per day in your vehicle even if you are
just passing through. You will need it in
an emergency. Carry more if you plan
to be active. Fluid and electrolyte levels
must be balanced, so have salty foods or
“sports drinks” handy as well.
your plans.
FLASH FLOODS
While driving, be alert for water running
in washes and across dips in the road.
When hiking and camping, avoid canyons and washes during rain storms, and
be prepared to move to higher ground.
Mailing Address
2701 Barstow Road
Barstow, CA 92311
Hikers, backpackers, and those traveling on dirt roads need to be self-reliant
and well-prepared. Plan ahead, carry
detailed maps, and let someone know
DANGEROUS ANIMALS
Never place your hands or feet where
you cannot see first. Rattlesnakes, scorpions, or black widow spiders might be
sheltered there.
DRESS PROPERLY FOR HIKING
Wear loose-fitting clothing and sturdy
shoes that protect your feet from rocks
and cactus. Use sunscreen and wear a
hat. Carry a light jacket as temperatures
drop dramatically when the sun goes
down.
MINE HAZARDS
Never enter a mine. They are unmaintained and unstable, and you might encounter pockets of bad air or poisonous
gas. Stay out, and stay alive!
IN CASE OF EMERGENCY
AVOID HIKING IN EXTREME HEAT
Do not hike in the low elevations when
temperatures are high; the mountains
are cooler in summer.
BACKCOUNTRY TRAVEL
Newspaper Editor
Norma Sosa
drinks. Dampen clothing to lower body
temperature. Be alert for symptoms in
others.
WATCH FOR SIGNS OF TROUBLE ON HOT DAYS
Cell phones do not work in many areas.
Try moving uphill to get a signal. To call
for help, dial 911 or the Federal Interagency Communications Center at 909383-5651. After calling, stay with your
car until help comes.
If you feel dizzy or nauseated, or if you
develop a headache, get out of the sun
immediately, and drink water or sports
Web and E-mail
www.nps.gov/moja
For e-mail, click “Contact Us”
Park Headquarters
ph: 760-252-6100
fax: 760-252-6174
National Park Service employees care
for America’s national parks and work
with communities across the nation
to help preserve local history and to
create close-to-home recreational
opportunities.
..................................................................................................................................................................
Essential Information
Dates and Hours of Operation
The preserve is always open. Information centers (see below) maintain regular hours of operation.
Fees and Reservations
There are no entrance fees. See page 6 for information about campground reservations and fees.
Information Centers
Three information centers provide orientation, information, and trip-planning advice. Park rangers
are on duty. Western National Parks Association (WNPA) bookstores offer books, maps, and more.
Kelso Depot Visitor Center
Located on Kelbaker Road, 34 miles southeast of Baker, CA. Open seven days per week from 9 a.m.
to 5 p.m. Closed on Christmas.
Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center
Located near Hole-in-the-Wall Campground.
Headquarters Information Center
Located at 2701 Barstow Road, Barstow, Calif. Open Monday through Friday, 8 a.m.–4:00 p.m.
Food
Limited snacks are available in the Western National Parks Association stores at Kelso Depot Visitor
Center and Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center, but there is no restaurant. Restaurants are located
along I-15 at Barstow and Baker, Calif. and along I-40 at Ludlow, Fenner, and Needles, Calif.
Water
Drinking water is available only at Kelso Depot Visitor Center, Hole-in-the-Wall Information Center,
Hole-in-the-Wall, Black Canyon and Mid-Hills campgrounds.
Gasoline
There are no gasoline stations within Mojave National Preserve. Gasoline can be purchased along
I–40 at Needles, Fenner, and Ludlow, Calif., along I–15 at Baker, Calif., the Cima Road exit, and
Primm, Nev., and along U.S. 95 at Searchlight and at the Nev.163 junction south of Cal-Nev-Ari, Nev.
Lodging
There are no motels within Mojave National Preserve. Lodging may be available in Barstow, Nipton,
Ludlow, Needles, Baker, and Twentynine Palms, Calif., and in Primm and Searchlight, Nev.
Bicycles
Bicycles are allowed in parking areas, on paved roads, and on existing, open dirt roads. Bicycles are
not allowed in Wilderness Areas or for cross-country travel.
2 Mojave National Preserve
Pets
Although not allowed inside information centers, pets are welcome elsewhere. They must be
leashed and never left unattended. Dogs used during hunting activities must be under the owner’s
control at all times. Pet excrement must be collected and disposed of in garbage receptacles.
Permits
Permits are required for all organized events, group events (more than 15 individuals or 7 vehicles),
and commercial activities such as filming. Fees apply. Proof of insurance and posting of a bond
might also be required. Call 760-252-6107 or visit www.nps.gov/moja for more information.
Hunting and Firearms
Hunting is permitted in accordance with state regulations. All hunting activities require a license;
additional permits and tags might apply. Visit the California Department of Fish & Wildlife website
at http://www.dfg.ca.gov/ for more information.
Target shooting or “plinking” is prohibited. All firearms transported within the preserve must be unloaded, cased, and broken down, except during lawful hunting activities. No shooting is permitted
within 1/2 mile of developed areas, including campgrounds, information centers, Kelso Dunes, Fort
Piute, Sweeney Granite Mountains Desert Research Center, and the Desert Studies Center at Zzyzx.
Collecting and Vandalism
Disturbing, defacing, or collecting plants, animals, rocks, historic or archeological objects is prohibited. Leave these resources as you find them for everyone to enjoy. Metal detectors are not allowed.
Private Property
Private inholdings are found throughout the preserve. Please respect the rights of our neighbors.
It is your responsibility to obtain permission before hunting, hiking, or entering private property.
Cattle and Fences
Most grazing within Mojave National Preserve occurs on public land. This land is open to you to
explore, but please don’t disturb cattle, fences, or water tanks. Leave gates as you find them.
Watch for cattle on roadways.
Firewood & Campfires
Wood is scarce in the desert. Cutting or collecting any wood, including downed wood, is prohibited. All firewood, including kindling, must be brought in. Firewood might be available for purchase
at Baker, Fenner, Needles or Nipton, Calif. Campfires are allowed in campground fire rings and
other established sites. To minimize your impact, use a firepan and pack out the ashes. Please do
not leave fires smoldering or unattended.
NPS/LINDA SLATER
Exploring Mojave
Avenues to Adventure
Mojave National Preserve is vast. At 1.6 million acres, it is the third-largest unit of the National Park
System in the contiguous United States. While much of Mojave’s wild and historic splendor is available only to those who travel its trails and unmaintained roads, the primary roads of the preserve
offer endless opportunities for exploration (see map on page 8).
Kelbaker Road
Cima Road
A 56-mile paved road stretching from I-15 at
Baker, Calif. in the north to I-40 east of Ludlow,
Calif. in the south, Kelbaker Road winds past
cinder cones, lava flows, Kelso Depot, Kelso
Dunes, and the Granite Mountains.
About 26 miles east of Baker, Calif., the paved
Cima Road connects I-15 with Cima, Calif., 16
miles to the southeast.
Cinder Cones & Lava Flows
No signs or services.
About 14 miles southeast of Baker, Kelbaker
Road traverses a 25,600-acre area of lava flows
and volcanic cinder cones thought to range
in age from 10,000 to 7 million years old.
In 1973, the area was designated as Cinder
Cones National Natural Landmark due to its
scenic beauty and exceptional geological value.
Aiken Mine Road (19 miles southeast of Baker,
Calif.) offers an interesting side trip through
the heart of the area and access to a lava
tube. High clearance and four-wheel drive
recommended.
Kelso Depot Visitor Center
Information, exhibits, orientation film, art gallery, bookstore, restrooms, water, picnic area.
Open every day but Christmas. Located 34
miles southeast of Baker, Kelso Depot began
operation in 1924 and served as train station,
restaurant, and employee housing on the Los
Angeles and Salt Lake route of the Union Pacific Railroad. Now Mojave National Preserve’s
principal information center and museum, the
Depot offers extensive exhibits that describe
the cultural and natural history of the preserve.
Historically furnished rooms offer a glimpse
into Kelso’s past.
Kelso Dunes
Self-guiding trail, pit toilets, no water.
About 42 miles southeast of Baker (8 miles
south of Kelso Depot), then 3 miles west on
a graded dirt road. Nearly 700 feet high and
covering a 45-square-mile area, the Kelso Dunes
were created over the course of 25,000 years
by winds carrying sand grains from the dried
Soda Lake and Mojave River Sink located to
the northwest. The Providence and Granite
mountains served as barriers that trapped the
blowing sand. The dunes produce a “booming”
or “singing” sound when sand with the right
moisture content slides down the steep slopes.
Try it for yourself—run down a dune slope (but
don’t trample vegetation!) to initiate the sound.
Granite Mountains
No signs or services.
An imposing jumble of granite marks the south
entrance to the preserve, 50 miles southeast of
Baker on Kelbaker Road. Portions of the Granite
Mountains lie within the University of California’s Desert Research Center; please respect the
signs that mark the boundary. High clearance
and four-wheel drive recommended.
Clark Mountain
No signs or services.
The only portion of Mojave National Preserve
north of I-15, Clark Mountain is also its highest
point, at 7,929 feet. A relict white fir grove
near the top is one of only three in the Mojave
Desert. Check detailed maps or ask a ranger for
access information. High clearance and
four-wheel drive recommended.
Cima Dome & Joshua Tree Woodland
Self-guiding trail, no water.
The near-perfect symmetry of Cima Dome rises
1,500 feet above the surrounding desert and
is home to the world’s largest concentration of
Joshua trees. The top of the dome is located
west of Cima Road, this unusual geologic feature is best seen from a distance. Try the view
looking northwest from Cedar Canyon Road,
2.5 miles east of Kelso Cima Road.
White Cross World War I Memorial
Located 12 miles south of I-15 on Cima Road,
this memorial is owned and operated by the
Veterans of Foreign Wars.
Cedar Canyon & Black
Canyon Roads
Mostly unpaved, the 20-mile Cedar Canyon
Road connects Kelso Cima Road in the west
with Ivanpah Road in the east, paralleling (and
sometimes joining) the historic Mojave Road.
Black Canyon Road (unpaved north of Hole-inthe-Wall) connects Cedar Canyon Road with
Essex Road, 20 miles to the south.
Rock House
Loop trail, wayside exhibits, pit toilet, picnic table.
5 miles east of Black Canyon Road on Cedar
Canyon Road. The Rock House is emblematic
of creative desert building styles. Nearby Rock
Spring, located along the loop trail, was the site
of a military outpost along the Mojave Road.
Mid Hills
Campground, trailhead, pit toilets, water.
Not recommended for RVs.
About 2 miles west of Black Canyon Road at
the north end of Wild Horse Canyon Road, Mid
Hills supports pinyon-juniper woodland habitat.
The effects of a fire that swept through the
area in June 2005 are evident, although several
campsites in the popular campground still contain shady stands of pinyon pine and juniper.
Hole-in-the-Wall
Information center, bookstore, campgrounds,
picnic area, trailhead, restroom, water, telephone.
Just north of the junction of Black Canyon and
the south end of Wild Horse Canyon Roads,
rhyolite cliffs riddled with holes and hollows are
the backdrop for Hole-in-the-Wall.
Piute Spring
About 7.4 miles west of U.S. 95 on the unmarked and unpaved Mojave Road, then 3.1
miles west on an extremely rough unmarked
dirt road. High clearance and four-wheel
drive recommended.
Fort Piute and Piute Spring
Trails, wayside exhibits, no services.
Willows, cottonwoods, and rushes thrive along
a half-mile section of Piute Creek. Fort Piute (still
visible) was one in a string of military outposts
built along the Mojave Road. Please don’t climb
on the foundations or remove anything.
NPS COLLECTION
Scenic Cima Road connects I-15 with Cima, Calif., traversing the world’s largest concentration of Joshua trees.
Dirt Road Driving
Prepare Your Vehicle
Ensure that your vehicle is in good condition: check tires, oil, and gas gauge.
For emergencies, carry tools, tire jack, towrope, extra water, and fluids for your vehicle.
Know the Rules of the Road
All vehicles operating within Mojave National Preserve must be street-legal in accordance
with California DMV requirements, including current registration and tags, lights and turn
signals, and valid insurance. California “Green Sticker” and “Red Sticker” programs are not
recognized within the preserve.
Off-pavement travel is allowed only on existing, open dirt roads. Do not travel cross-country
or create new routes. This rule is strictly enforced; violators will receive citations. Driving
in washes is not permitted. Watch for and respect Wilderness Boundary signs; motorized
vehicles and bicycles are not allowed in designated Wilderness Areas.
Check Road Conditions
Road conditions vary widely. Dirt roads might be rough, sandy, or muddy, rendering them
impassable, and the unprepared motorist could be trapped many miles from help. Watch for
cattle, burros, and other wildlife on roadways.
Not all roads are shown on all maps; traces and illegal shortcuts add to the confusion. Carry a
good map, and ask a park ranger for current road conditions.
Zzyzx Road
Six miles southwest of Baker on I-15, Zzyzx
Road leads 5 miles south into the preserve along
the western shore of Soda Dry Lake.
Zzyzx/Soda Springs
Self-guiding trail, wayside exhibits, pit toilets,
non-potable water, picnic area.
Historically known as Soda Springs and later
renamed Zzyzx (pronounced ZYE-zix), this oasis
is home to the California State University Desert
Studies Center. The buildings and pond were
developed in the 1940s by Curtis Springer, who
operated a health resort at the site. Zzyzx is open
to the public—stroll around Lake Tuendae and
along the shore of Soda Dry Lake. Please do not
disturb participants when classes are in session.
Nipton, Ivanpah & Lanfair
Roads
Eleven miles south of Primm, Nev., Nipton Road
begins at I-15 and passes through Nipton, Calif.,
11 miles east. Ivanpah Road (only the 10 northernmost miles paved) heads southeast of Nipton
Road, through the Ivanpah and Lanfair valleys,
eventually connecting with the paved Lanfair
Road and the Fenner Valley. Together stretching
46 miles, Ivanpah and Lanfair roads connect the
northern preserve boundary (bordering Nipton
Road) with the southern near Goffs, Calif.
Hotel Nipton
NPS exhibits; privately operated hotel, store, &
campground; for information call 760-856-2335
or email at stay@nipton.com.
Built in 1910, this charming hotel reflects the
railroad, ranching, and mining history of the
small community at Nipton.
Caruthers Canyon
Primitive camping, hiking, no signs or services.
About 5.5 miles west of Ivanpah Road on New
York Mountains Road, then 2.7 miles north on
an unsigned road, Caruthers Canyon is located
in the rugged New York Mountains. Surrounded
by mountains rising over 7,500 feet, a botanical “island” of chaparral plants remains from
wetter times of the past. High clearance and
four-wheel drive recommended.
Sand & Mud Driving Tips
•Be sure to carry plenty of drinking water
and emergency supplies.
•Engage four-wheel drive before entering
deep sand or mud.
•Don’t gun the engine—this will spin the
tires, dig you in deeper, and could bury
your vehicle to the frame. Smooth, easy
power is better than too much power;
use low gearing and just enough throttle
to maintain forward movement.
•If you detect a loss of traction, turn the
steering wheel rapidly from side-to-side—
this might help to generate traction.
•If your vehicle gets stuck, place solid
materials (such as floor mats) under the
tires to provide traction.
•If you’re really stuck, it’s best to stay
with your vehicle. A stationary, stranded
vehicle is much easier to locate than a
person traveling on foot. Avoid strenuous
activity during the heat of the day; stay in
the shade of your vehicle.
Lanfair Valley
No signs or services. Mojave Desert Outpost, a
privately-owned campground, is located here.
For information call 951-780-3179.
South of the New York Mountains along Ivanpah and Lanfair roads, this high valley shelters
an impressive Joshua tree forest and was an
early ranching and homesteading center. From
1893 until 1923, the Nevada Southern Railway
ran up the valley from Goffs, providing services
to homesteaders and ranchers in the valley and
to miners in the mountains beyond. While little
evidence remains of homesteads that once
dotted the valley, tracts of private property still
exist. Please respect the rights of landowners.
Mojave National Preserve 3
COURTESY
AND MORRIS
JONES
COURTESYJANE
NASA/JET
PROPULSION
LABORATORY--CALTECH
Members
of the
Old Town
Astronomers
upMojave
telescopes
in BlackPreserve
Canyon Group
Equestrian from
Campground
for an annual
Star Party.
Left toCampground.
right: Jane and Morris Jones, Todd Kunioka, Jim Stears, and Gary Spiers.
This is a star
chart
of theSidewalk
summer
night sky set
over
National
facing&southeast
Black Canyon
Equestrian
& Group
Look Up for a Wonder of Mojave’s Clear, Tranquil Summer Evenings
By Phillip Gomez
On a still, clear night in Mojave National
Preserve, there’s nothing so tranquil as
going outside well after nightfall, lying in
a hammock, and looking up at the distant
stars.
anyone can enjoy this park resource: inky
night skies full of stars—the Milky Way
above and a natural soundscape below.
The clean, sweet-smelling night air of the
Mojave wilderness, as well as other areas
of the Preserve, becomes a haven for those
seeking quiet, relaxing, or contemplative
settings.
From my favorite perch, they’re framed in
the foreground by the tangled, shadowed
Get a compass along with a good star chart
limbs of two Joshua
and find the consteltrees. A chorus of
lation Sagittarius. It’s
‘...anyone can enjoy
crickets provides the
just above the southbackground music
this park resource: inky ern horizon and below
in the surroundthe band of stars in
night skies full
ing shrubs. Bats zip
the Milky Way. This
around me chasing
constellation looks like
of stars...’
insects. An owl yips
a tea kettle, its spout
leisurely with long,
steaming up the Sagitsilent intervals in the tree branches above
tarius Star Cloud in the heart of the galaxy.
before gliding away in a low swoop.
Another easily seen and well-known conStargazing has become increasingly popustellation in the southern sky is the large
lar at remote southwestern parks such as
constellation of Scorpio. The stinger tail
Death Valley, Joshua Tree, and Great Basin, of this familiar desert figure curls around
and at Organ Pipe Cactus National Monujust to the right of Sagittarius, then heads
ment and the Preserve. Mojave hosts perinorth of the Milky Way’s star clouds. Sagitodic “star parties”, inviting visitors to gaze
tarius includes the beguiling red-gold star
at the night sky through telescopes. The
Antares, one of the largest-known stars,
National Park Service encourages visitor
700 times the diameter of our sun.
activities like stargazing and active listenTaking in the dark night skies and the natuing for wildlife sounds as fundamental
resource values for the enjoyment of desert ral soundscapes of the desert’s biotic communities draws you into what one expert
solitude.
calls “the basic happenings” of life. As Paul
On a moonless night and with a clear view
Bogard, author of The End of Night: Searching for Natural Darkness in an Age of Artiof summer’s nighttime constellations,
ficial Light, describes the research on wildlife and artificial night lighting, most plants
and animals depend on natural patterns of
darkness. Light pollution threatens desert
biodiversity “by forcing sudden change on
habits and patterns that have evolved to
depend on light in the day and darkness at
night.” While most of us are asleep indoors,
“outside the night world is wide awake with
matings, migrations, pollinations, and feeding—in short, the basic happenings that
keep world biodiversity alive.”
Urban light pollution spilling over into
nearby rural areas can spoil sky watchers’
viewing of the stars, even in the Preserve.
“The light from Las Vegas may not stay in
Vegas,” says Bogard. But ignoring the urban glow to the north of the brightest city
in the world, sky watchers at Mojave can
turn to its southern sky for a more fabulous
entertainment: primitive darkness.
The summer season is an excellent time of
year for viewing the Milky Way Galaxy, the
irregular band of 200 billion stars stretching across our night sky as a thin, hazy
cloud. For those with the patience to look
and learn, these distant suns produce a
faraway radiance that more than rivals the
lights to the north.
The light from the galactic core of the
Milky Way “merges like melted gold to create this glowing band,” says Bob Berman in
Secrets of the Night Sky: The Most Amazing Things in the Universe You Can See
with the Naked Eye.“ Focus your binoculars and tens of thousands of stars spring
into sudden visibility, the gentle radiance
behind these newcomers indicating that
still more unresolved stars lurk behind
them…More, still more, who knows how
many billions more unresolved suns always
lie farther in the distance.”
Back on earth, Bogard sadly reports that
eight out of every ten children born in the
United States today will never know a night
dark enough that they can see the Milky
Way. Because most of us live in increasingly
over-lighted cities, 80% of Americans will
never understand the meaning of the wellknown British nursery rhyme Twinkle,
Twinkle Little Star that was published in
1806, well before the advent of artificial
light.
The rhyme “How I wonder what you are”
is lost on anyone who has never had the
opportunity of seeing bright, shining stars
against the dark night sky. The rhyme suggests mystery, a wonder we can only begin
to understand by experiencing it ourselves.
Stars are natural resource wonders, best
appreciated in dark, arid clean-air landscapes in Mojave and other remote national parklands in the desert Southwest.
Remote Backcountry Habitat Harbors the Rugged Desert Bighorn Sheep
By Robert Mills
Those who have had the joy of witnessing a
Desert Bighorn Sheep standing on a jagged
peak, silhouetted against a sun-lit blue sky,
would be quick to agree that they have seen
one of the most majestic animals to roam
Mojave National Preserve.
Shy and inhabiting remote and rugged desert
mountain terrain, they travel across valleys
from one mountain to the next, avoiding other
creatures. It is a fortunate photographer who
captures these magnificent creatures on film,
as photo opportunities are fleeting. The Bighorn (Ovis Canadensis nelsoni) is surprisingly
fast and agile on the rugged terrain, so merely
sighting one of these creatures is generally
reserved for those willing to venture into this
difficult habitat.
While both males and females grow horns, it
is only the males that sport the big horns that
give the animals their name. A mature set of
horns takes about seven years to grow and can
measure 30 inches from base to tip.
In this harsh environment, the Bighorn survive on ephemeral shrubs and catclaw. It survives because of a complex digestive process
that extracts nutrients efficiently.
The Bighorn has adapted to the limited desert
water supply by extracting moisture from
green winter vegetation. During the drier
4 Mojave National Preserve
summer months, Bighorns visit watering spots
frequently during the summer and linger a
quarter of an hour to an hour, minimizing
their exposure to predators.
An estimated 600 Bighorn inhabit Mojave
National Preserve. They live ten to 15 years in
the wild. The females (ewes) weigh 75 to 130
pounds, while the males (rams) weigh 140 to
220 pounds. At age two, ewes generally deliver
one lamb, rarely two, in late spring after a sixmonth gestation.
The Bighorn has few natural enemies. There
are reports of eagles killing a lamb or of multiple eagles taking down a sick adult. Every now
and then, a mountain lion manages to catch
one, but the bighorn’s habitat in some of the
desert’s most difficult terrain generally shields
them from natural predation.
In the past few years, the Bighorn’s biggest
threat has come, not from natural predators,
but from domesticated animals—mainly
sheep. There have been Bighorn sheep die-offs
dating back to the 1840s. Research based on
carefully controlled studies shows that grazing
of domestic sheep in or near Bighorn habitat
leads to transfers of diseases that prove fatal
for the Bighorn.
The most recent report was supplied after
an outbre