"Views from the Lava Beds" by NPS photo , public domain
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U.S. Department of the Interior
Lava Beds
Lava Beds National Monument
The Geology of Lava Beds
Why Is There
Lava Here?
Lava Beds National Monument protects a wide variety of well-preserved lava features
resulting from many eruptions of the Medicine Lake shield volcano over the past
500,000 years—including cinder and spatter cones, ‘lava beds’, and almost 700 lava
tube caves. These features result from a tectonic plate beneath the Pacific Ocean
slowly sliding under the continental plate. As it dives deep into the earth, this oceanic
plate melts into magma, which then rises to the surface as lava several hundred miles
inland from the coast. The Medicine Lake volcano is one of many places where these
eruptions occurred throughout the Cascade Range of volcanoes, which stretches from
northern California into British Columbia.
Medicine Lake is unique among Cascades volcanoes for its great surface area, as well
as the wide variety of features left behind by eruptions of different characteristics and
composition. These special places are yours to explore both here and throughout the
surrounding area. Please remember that the unique geology of Lava Beds belongs to
everyone, and rock collection is prohibited.
Why Doesn’t It Look
Like a Volcano?
Lava Beds lies on the northern flank of the
Medicine Lake volcano and covers only about 10
percent of its surface area. At approximately 150
mi (241 km) around the base, 7900 ft (2408 m) in
height, and covering over 700 square mi (1125
km2), Medicine Lake is by far the largest volcano
by volume in the Cascade Range. It is believed to
have many small underground magma chambers
rather then one large chamber. Eruptions from
nearly 200 surface vents have created a volcano
with a low, broad, gently sloping profile—like a
shield. This profile built up over time by relatively
mild eruptions of fluid lava flowing over large
areas. The amount of gas and certain chemicals
present in magma also contribute to the way a
volcano erupts. Current eruptions on the Hawaiian
islands are a good example of what the Medicine
Lake volcano looked like as it formed.
By contrast, composite, or strato-, volcanoes are
what many people think of when they hear the term
‘volcano’. Familiar composite volcanoes of the
Cascade Range include Mounts Shasta, Lassen,
Mazama (Crater Lake), St. Helens, and Rainier.
These volcanoes result from layers of lava and ash
that pile up primarily around one central vent,
creating the characteristic pointed cone. These
eruptions are often violent, and may include the
ejection of large amounts of ash, pyroclastic
materials such as hot rocks, and even massive
mudflows (lahars) if glaciers on a volcano’s peak
melt quickly.
Activity and Age
The Medicine Lake volcano has erupted
intermittently for approximately half a million
years. The most recent flows of pumice and
obsidian at Glass Mountain (south of Lava Beds in
the Modoc National Forest) occurred less than 900
years ago. Since there have been no eruptions
within historical times, and there are no signs that
the volcano is getting ready to erupt soon,
geologists consider Medicine Lake ‘dormant’.
However, since the tectonic forces beneath all the
Cascades volcanoes are still in motion, it is likely
that there will be an eruption here again sometime
in the future. Perhaps Native Americans watched as
the volcano came alive here hundreds or thousands
of years ago, and fountains of glowing rock fed
rivers of fire that poured over the landscape.
Perhaps future generations will witness this
awesome spectacle again someday.
thirty separate lava flows exposed at Lava Beds.
Rocks visible within the Monument range from two
million year old volcanic tuff at Gillem Bluff in the
northwest corner, to basalt about 1100 years old at
the Callahan Flow in the southwest corner.
Multiple eruptions of liquid basalt that flowed from
Mammoth and Modoc Craters (on the Monument’s
southern boundary) between 30,000 and 40,000
years ago formed most of the lava tube caves here.
This flow covers about 70 percent of the
Monument. A different flow in the southeast corner
of the park that emerged around 11,000 years ago
was lower in viscosity and created smoothertextured caves, including Valentine Cave. Cinder
cones, spatter cones, and other surface lava flows
also appeared periodically between every few
hundred and every few tens of thousands of years.
Today you can see the hardened results of over
Volcanic Features
Lava Tube Caves
A gentle slope and very fluid lava are required for
the formation of lava tubes. Lava up to 2000° F
(1093° C) flows downhill and immediately begins
to cool and solidify upon contact with the ground
and air. Lava touching the ground solidifies first,
followed by the sides and then the top of the flow.
This hard shell of cooled lava insulates the liquid
rock inside, allowing it to flow long distances
before it cools and comes to a stop. The lava
continues to flow until it either drains out or seals
the end of the tube. Imagine when lava tubes
extended largely unbroken for up to 10 miles from
Mammoth Crater, stopped only by the waters of
Tule Lake! In the millenia since, weather and
gravity have punched holes in the ceilings of these
extensive tube systems every few hundred feet,
leaving behind almost 700 individual caves.
These caves now provide not only outstanding
opportunities for exploration, but habitat for a host
of species ranging from threatened bats and
bacteria, to tree frogs and sword ferns that cannot
survive in the dry surface environment. The
perennial ice formations found in some caves also
give scientists an opportunity to study the effects
of climate change.
Cinder Cones
The rounded mounds of many cinder cones dot
the Lava Beds landscape. A cinder cone forms
when high pressure and dissolved gases in magma
cause an eruption that blows a fountain of lava
into the air. The cooling lava then falls as cinders
around the vent. Many cinder cones also ooze
liquid lava from their bases if the eruption’s
underground magma source changes character,
Rock Composition
And Types
The name given to each type of volcanic rock is
determined by the amount of silica (a glassy
mineral that crystalizes and changes the viscosity
of a lava flow) present, as well as by the character
of the resulting rock.
Basalt contains the least amount of silica of rocks
found here, at around 47 percent. Approximately
90 percent of the rocks at Lava Beds are basaltic.
Its extremely hot, fluid character allowed it to
flow rapidly over large areas to create expansive
lava beds and tube cave systems. Aa and
pahoehoe are two Hawaiian terms used to
describe the texture of basaltic lava. Aa is very
rough and jagged—the Devils Homestead lava
flow is one example. Pahoehoe has the
consistency of pudding—smooth and ropy—and
is perfect for making lava tube caves. Pieces of
basalt full of bubbles from trapped gasses are
called scoria and make up the ‘cinders’ of most
cinder cones.
The remainder of Lava Beds’ surface rocks are
primarily andesite. Containing more silica than
basalt, andesite is slightly thicker and more
resistant to flow. Rhyolite has the highest content
of silica, up to 77 percent. Eruptions of rhyolite
Learn More
Learn more about the geology of Lava Beds by
viewing the video in the Visitor Center, looking
through the interpretive binders there, and
speaking to a ranger. Daily ranger-guided cave
tours are offered in summer, and geology slide
programs are among those offered on summer
evenings. View labeled rock samples and cave
formations in the Visitor Center museum, on the
trail between the Visitor Center and Mushpot
EXPERIENCE YOUR AMERICA
such as the Schonchin Lava Flow emanating from
Schonchin Butte. This is the only cinder cone with
a trail to the top; please help preserve others by not
climbing on them.
Spatter Cones
Sometimes thick blobs of lava resembling lumpy
oatmeal are thrown out of a vent. Thicker than
cinders and thrown less high into the air, they form
a cone where they land. Black Crater is an
example of an impressive spatter cone. A hollow
chimney may also form where the lava emerged —
those found at Fleener Chimneys are 150 ft (46 m)
deep.
Craters
Mammoth Crater once contained a massive lake of
lava that overflowed rather than erupted, and left
behind an enormous empty crater. The highly fluid,
basaltic lava was transported many miles to the
northern part of the Monument, creating networks
of lava tube caves all along the way.
Fault Scarps
Gillem Bluff is an example of a fault scarp, a place
where large blocks of crust move relative to each
other, sometimes during violent earthquakes. Many
long cliffs or ridges in this area are found along
faults. Gillem Bluff has moved up relative to the
basin below, exposing layers of ancient basalt
believed to be two million years old.
tend to be either explosive or very slow moving,
forming thick flows. One form of rhyolite is
obsidian, a volcanic glass prized by Native
Americans for making arrowheads and other tools.
The nearest location of an obsidian flow is Glass
Mountain, located about 30 mi (48 km) from the
Visitor Center in the Modoc National Forest.
Pumice is another rhyolitic rock that is filled with
gas bubbles and blown high into the air. Tiny bits
of pumice from Glass Mountain’s last eruption 900
years ago cover almost the entire surface of Lava
Beds. This keeps the soil loose and well drained.
Rainwater soaks in quickly, nourishing only plants
with deep roots and leaving no surface water
behind.
Tuff forms from compacted layers of volcanic ash.
The tuff of Petroglyph Point formed when lava
erupted into Tule Lake and exploded into ash,
violently reacting when it mixed with the cool lake
water. Tuff is very soft in comparison to other
volcanic rocks. Native Americans took advantage
of this to inscribe the cliffs of Petroglyph Point.
Cave, and inside Mushpot. You can also take a
virtual tour of Valentine Cave in the museum, and
more than a dozen wayside displays explain
geologic features at roadside and trailside
throughout the Monument. Teachers can also
borrow curriculum-based geology activity trunks to
use in the classroom. Enjoy your geologic
adventure!