Lava Beds

Lava Beds r -r# t \\ 1ti \'" National Monument California National Park Service U.S. Department of the lnterior ,il A Turbulent Past Man's activities in this rugged landscape have been nearly as violent as the natural forces that created it. For a million years the volcano has spewed forth lava, gases, and cinders, creating what seems to be an inhospitable landscape. Yet the youngest cinder cones-1,0O0 years old-are covered by vegetation that provides food and shelter for wildlife. For centuries this area was home to the Modoc lndians, who hunted in the valleys and mountains, fished in the rivers and lakes, and used the tules (reeds) that grew around the lake to make their homes, boats, and other items. Their way of life was changed forever by the arrival of settlers in the 1850s. After repeated confrontations and much bloodshed, the Bureau of lndian Affairs negotiated with all the Klamath bands in October 1864. The settlers were relieved, but the negotiations were disastrous for the Modocs. They were asked to give up their homeland and to live on a reservation with bands who were their traditional enemies. Finally, the Modocs agreed to try living on the reservation, but within a few months they began to leave. They returned to their old homes saying that they wanted a reservation for themselves on their ancestral land. Even the reservation. On the morning of November 29, 1872, an Army patrol went out to bring in the lndians, but fighting broke out. lnitially victorious, the Modocs, under the leadership of Captain Jack, drove off the troops and sought safety in the lava beds, where for almost five months 52 warriors held off a growing army, eventually 20 times larger. An effort to end the war by negotiation ended in even more bloodshed. By late May almost all the Modocs had been captured, and on June 1, 1873, Captain Jack more Modocs left the reservation in 1867. surrendered. On October 3, 1873, he and three other Modoc leaders were hanged. By late 1872, the U.S. Army was ordered to return the Modocs, by force if necessary, to The remaining members of Jack's band were sent to a reservation in Oklahoma. Library of Congress teffatn- The rhrc6 mon (betow ceoter) rook part in rho llrst b.ttlo .t Lod aivor. Glllsm's Camp (tclox, dgtrt) w.s noar tho 3hor€. ol Tuls Late. National Archtves National Archives National Archives ffi i., * ffi _* -*-*-Tra:, ,3-.,E.u *r - ..-+*-l:Fffi-}:fu.,"_ -. W ffi . I a]f]!:i l:- . . ,; M-; .iL . p'* .Jfrmfi&.&T{:;rs - - " .-"""a ta#. *@dS*:eiee _; :: 1.,,::$l l: $' &sr" q ,- ff;" ' ffi;]ffi k5*"ffi A Natural Wealth At first glance the land looks barren, covered by scraurny grasses and clumps of sagebrush. Closer examination reveals much more. ln the north end of the park, which is also the lowest in elevation, these grasslands dominate and few trees are to be seen. Further south, and higher, the vegetation gradually changes as more and more junipers intrude on the grasslands. Eventually, in the extreme southern reaches of the park, the grasslands, disappear altogether and the junipers give way to a pine forest. All of this land is volcanic in origin and making soil that can support plantlile takes a long time. Once established, the vegetation provides shelter, tood, and refuge for small animals who in turn are a source of food for predatory animals and birds of prey. ln the northern grasslands, squirrels, kangaroo rats, yellow-bellied marmots, jackrabbits, Calilornia quail, meadowlarks, and the rare sage grouse can be found. During the winter, mule deer come from the other side ol the volcano lo feed on the grasses in the park, where snowfall is less and does not last as long. lndeed, so many deer spend the winter in the park that watching deer I T I I *fl.r*ffi W \r I is a popular pastime for visitors and local people. An unusually large concentration of raptor birds dwells in the park and throughout the Klamath Basin. Several lactors make this environment favorable. This area is home to many rodentsrats, mice, squirrels-for the birds to leed upon. The cliffs at the northern edge of the park overIooking Tule Lake Sump provide the kinds ol nesting that these birds require. Nests are inaccessible to nearly all predators and strategically positioned so the birds can scan the countryside and take quick notice of any activity. Chief among the raptors is the bald eagle that winters here in numbers greater than any place outside Alaska. Twentyfour species of hawks, falcons, owls, and other birds of prey can be seen in the park. Since rodents are their chief torm of food, the birds are an important check on what could easily be an infestation with the attendant problems of disease and the devastation of crops outside the park. For some, the most spectacular aspect of the wildlite in the area surrounding the park is the Flyway. Many waterfowl nest on the lakes of the Klamath Basin, and in late spring the waters are covered with thousands of ducklings, goslings, and the offspring of other waterfowl. Despite the magnificence of the springtime numbers however, the fall gathering is even more spectacular, for approximately 2 million ducks and 1 million geese stop here to rest and feed on their way south, some birds coming lrom as lar away as Siberia. There are times when the sky is literally darkened by the arrival oI a very large llock of birds, an increasingly rare event in North America. The road from the northeast entrance into the park is parallel to the common boundary of the park and the Tule Lake Unit of the Klamath Basin National Wildlife Refuge. From vantage points along the way you can watch more than 20 species of ducks, plus many varieties of geese, grebes, pelicans, herons, cormorants, gulls, coots, terns, avocets, and other birds. Enjoy your visit to the park and the variety-both in history and natural wonders-that it has to offer. semiannual migration of birdlife along the Pacific ffi q{r'.=": 'Ir*"-J r \" bEt Regulations Lava Beds ffi o All natural and historical objects must be left in place and undisturbed. o Hunting, gathering specimens, and collect' a leash. They are not permitted on trails or in caves or public wildlite. o All weapons must be ing souvenirs are prohibited. o Pets must be kePt on o Do not leed or molest buildings. broken down or cased. o Base hunting camps are not permitted. a Be carefulwith all lire, including cigarettes, and make sure your campfire is out and al! embers are extinguished. o Vehicles are restricted to roads.. I,, L--l . -.ry,gd Collapsed roofs, crustose lichens, perfectly formed tubes, and yearround ice are just samples of what you can expect to find in the A Hidden World hasa historyol itLaieaot noittrern Catifornia lava caves. Exploring them can be exciting, if you take the proper precautions and use commonsense. Make sure that you wear some- thing on your head; hard hats are for sale in the visitor center. Wear hard-soled shoes, because the lava can be sharp. And carry at least thellowcool rapidly, however, and b6ginloslow ,oi"*iinr- ffr. f.q""v ot those times-and iishould down and harden. This outside layer aats as insu- lating malerial while the rest ol the llow beneath it .iifr" prdi* ifti" *sfon is considore; active-is rema-ins hot and lasl-moving. The flow continuos on, somewhal llke a dver that koeps on llowing att arouna.-CinOer cones, shield volcanoes, slEtoeven though lhe su ace has lrozon over. When volcanoes, lava tubes, tlows ol both Pahoehoe ropvt unO Aa (rough and clinker-lik€) the erupti;n stops and the river ot lavs ceases, a t"ro"if, ",iJ tunnel or tube-lhe outer shell-is lefl. The numchimniys are all a part ot i"r", ip"tt.. "."-.'", -a ot ths ;ost striking volber ol tubes in sny one tlow varies. Lava tubos lie ifrf" L-ir"v. p.itr"p'io"e canic ;alures in Lava Bods is lhs phenomenon alop one anolher, the resu lt ot su bsequent tlows, Th€ most rccent tubes in tho parkurereloamed ol lavalubo caves. about 3O,OOO years ago from lava llowsthat came trom Mammoth craffiheudrtSlgouthe.n Levatubos are not particularly unusual irrayolnot be assumod tiat; votcanic activity is a thing ca"l" *r l"ifrit, f.rmati;n dilticult to exiiii" .i"i*,rai."t""a. u"arly 2oocaves havo been Ior"t a *itfti"ift" p*t, m;king thesetormafionjan especiaffy prominentl;atu@. boundary. When lava pourslrom a volcano lt is extremely hot (abour 1 SOOo F)- The outer 6dges and su rlace ol During lhe cooling procoss, portions of the tubes' roofs;ollapse. These opsnings make it possible for plants, animals, and precipitation to enter the caves and create a world ol lile within them. A few ot lhe tubss ar€ i@ caves; rain collects in lhem three different sources of light;free lights are available in the visitor center. Do not explore the caves alone. and the air temperature remains fairlv constanl- bolow treezing. Even when temperatures reach 10OoF outside, lava is such a good insulator thal the air remains cold and ic€ lormations can be tou nd the year round. Many ol the cavqs were firsl exDlor€d and named by J.D. Howard, a local rancher. The names he painted on lhe walls ar€ still Yisible in most ol the caves. ln many of lhe caves, trails have b€sn laid out and ladders inslalled to makeaccesseasy. Many of these caves lie otf Cave Loop Road, south' wastof ptat@rs; llrushpot ervs'En ex; tonsion ofthe visitor center, is the onlv cave ln which lighls have been installed. Before ontar ing anv cave, check at th€ visllor cenler lor inlormation on spacilic caves and lor goneral salely informalion. ill cr.psrornd fl Lookout lower m Ranger station ffi lnterpretive trail f:_-_"r Unpaved road o H lr, Picnic area Overlook Petroglyph Section North TULE LAKE SUMP Kilometer Dike Road lnlormation Eg:t.wlldlife Kiosk West Wildlife Overlook \, \ .5 mi loop 1.5 mi loop l MODOC \ I \ \2 i@ \rr\\) \p '-d A' 'r2 \a *7 \ \J NATIONAL ( \//' (\ ( 1-u1 * _,i -tlj t\ -r----.^\r \ \i i^=a^\_^/- r. ;\ t\ \ \ I ) \ FOREST / / I j.t t / t, .JUN.DEq r Eumr \ lo tw l2 -Lul L- \. \ \ .\ r.)f \ Thomas-Wright i Battlefield ip'Jil'Eif ) -.r iizg Jre)^rz - ffi . ;:A:?\ ) 6-/ MODOC f/ ( NATIONAL t ) FOREST T TI ,l:l L: ,), ::l I l-l loJol7 2,J\Y\, l. l-{.7 I a \a. {t -.- \ , -) \ CRESCENT BUTTE . BEARPAW BU .TT t6*dm .rii.'6$?7ff . [E V CRATER HIPPO BUTTE..:' Indian Weil crrnO]rlg 7 ,'-*-'--' / _ _99_B _ ^ -. r MODOC 1674m 5493tt EAGTE NEST . BUTTE '1669m 5477ft Southeast Entrance , .CINDFR BIJTTE IVODOC NATIONAL FOREST T1] Canhy and Alturas To Medicine Lake Park Information Park headquarters for Lava Beds National Monument is 30 miles from Tulelake, Calif ., and 58 miles from Klamath Falls, Ore. Watch .l39,5 for signs on Calif. miles south of Tulelake and 26 miles north of Canby. Airlines serve Medford and Klamath Falls where rental cars are available. Tourist Information Food, lodging, gasoline, oil, and auto repairs are available in Tulelake and Klamath Falls. Near the visitor center a 40-unit campground with sites suitable for tents, pickup campers, and small trailers is open all year. There are no hookups. Water is available during the summer. From September 15 to May 15 water is available at the visitor center. The Fleener Chimneys picnic area has no water, and open f ires may not be built there. 50oF. Precipitation during the summer averages 1.25 inches or less per month. ln the summer park rangers lead daily walks o There is a large pop- and cave trips and conduct campf ire programs. Check bulletin boards or ask at the visitor center for the schedule. The park ranges in elevation from 4,OOO to 5,700 feet, and at these heights cold weather is possible any time of the year. Snow has been recorded in nearly all months. ln the winter daily high temperatures average around 4OoF; lows are 2OoF. Fog is frequent throughout the winter. Summers are moderate, with daytime highs averaging from 75o to 8OoF and lows about Safety ulation of ground squirrels and other rodents in the park. Rodents are known to harbor f leas that catry a bacterium that causes Bubonic Plague. Leave all rodents alone. o ln the winter large numbers of deer are in the park, and especially at dawn and dusk they can be found on the roads. Be alert when you are driving. o Owls, too, often sit on the roads, so be alert for them at night. o When you are exploring caves, you willencounter a number of potential hazards. Watch out for low ceilings, steep trails, and l,il, COkm 66mi I Macdoel uneven footing. Take more than one light source and wear protective headgear. Cave temperatures are cool, so wear adequate clothing. Get a permit from a park ranger to go into a cave other than those shown on the map in this folder. a Rattlesnakes are found throughout the park; do not put your hands and feet in places where you cannot see. Snakes are an important and protected part of this ecosystem. lf you have questions or comments, ask any park ranger. We are here to help you. For further information, write to. Superintendent, Lava Beds National Monument, Box 867, Tulelake, CA 96134. *GPO: 1985-461-444/20105