Hovenweep

Hovenweep National Monument Colorado/Utah National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Official Map and Guide The Towers of Hovenweep The canyon and mesa country north of the San Juan River contains a number of archeological sites where the ancestors of today's Pueblo Indians once lived. Today round, square, and D-shaped towers at the heads of canyons are the most visible remains that mark the location of once-thriving communities. Though these structures have seen no human inhabitants in more than 700 years, they are still impressive. Since modern Americans have become acquainted with Hovenweep, all have wondered why these towers were built and what the communities were like that the inhabitants created. The archeological record provides many suggestions and tantalizing bits of information and are the basis on which today's theories are formed. Most dwellings have been constructed directly on the edge of a canyon, not a most practical location for safety and accessibility. Some structures have been positioned over isolated or irregular boulders. Many are associated with springs and seeps near the heads of the canyons. These positions suggest that the inhabitants were protecting something, if not themselves, then perhaps the water, always a valuable commodity in an agricultural society. Pollen studies show that much of the forest cover had been removed, indicating perhaps depleted resources and a growing population. Lack of resources may be one of the explanations for their inexplicable departure in the late 1200s. The presence today of tall towers, tumbled piles of shaped stone, remains of multi-room pueblos, small cliff dwellings, pottery shards, and rock art scattered over the canyon rims and slopes leaves little doubt that a sizable population once lived in this rugged, yet beautiful, high desert landscape. Many Pueblo structures and nearby tower walls are still standing, even after seven centuries of weathering. Some walls still reach more than 20 feet in height though much of the exterior mortar has long since disappeared. Many walls are now piles of rubble. Visitors are able to walk along quiet, primitive trails and wonder what these communities must have been like so long ago Hovenweep Castle (above), Horseshoe Tower, and the pictograph (center, right) help to tell the story of these ancient peoples. Photos: Laurence Parent. when hundreds, or perhaps even thousands, of people lived on this plateau. Hovenweep is truly a place to "ponder the past." The first reports of these structures were made by W.D. Huntington, the leader of a Mormon expedition into southeastern Utah in 1854. The name "Hovenweep" was first used by pioneer photographer William H. Jackson in 1874. It is a Paiute/Ute word meaning deserted valley. In 1917-18, J.W. Fewkes of the Smithsonian surveyed the area. He recommended the structures be protected. On March 2,1923, President Warren G. Harding proclaimed Hovenweep a unit of the National Park System. Hovenweep National M o n u m e n t Colorado/Utah National Park Service U.S. D e p a r t m e n t of t h e Interior The People of Hovenweep T h e w o r k t h a t a r c h e o l o g i s t s have d o n e 700, s m a l l villages of m u l t i p l e - r o o m d w e l - t h r o u g h o u t t h e Four C o r n e r s area has p r o - lings b e c a m e c o m m o n . M u l t i - s t o r i e d s t r u c - v i d e d us w i t h i n t r i g u i n g i n f o r m a t i o n a b o u t t u r e s d o t t e d t h e l a n d s c a p e f r o m 1100 o n . t h e v a r i o u s p e o p l e s w h o lived in t h i s p o r - T h e t o w e r s of H o v e n w e e p b e l o n g t o t h e t i o n of t h e San J u a n River B a s i n . E v i d e n c e later y e a r s of t h i s p e r i o d . £ c 21 o of n o m a d i c h u n t e r s f r o m t e n or eleven t h o u s a n d y e a r s a g o , t h o u g h scanty, h a s These people raised c o r n , beans, squash, been found. Most research and investiga- a m a r a n t h , a n d o t h e r c r o p s in s m a l l f i e l d s t i o n s , however, have f o c u s e d o n lire m o r e and terraces that used check dams to recent t i m e p e r i o d w h e n t h e s t o n e s t r u c - b r i n g m o i s t u r e t o t h e i r c r o p s . They b e c a m e t u r e s w e r e built. A r c h e o l o g i c a l w o r k h a s e x p e r t a t u s i n g t h e r e s o u r c e s of t h i s e n v i - primarily f o c u s e d o n t h e p e r i o d 700 t o 1300 ronment, which was adequate for dryland w h e n t h e p o p u l a t i o n of t h e area w a s a t its a g r i c u l t u r e . Pottery, j e w e l r y , a n d c l o t h i n g greatest. E x a m i n a t i o n of t h e s e c o m m u n i - have b e e n f o u n d , t e l l i n g us t h a t t h e s e v i l - ties a n d m a n y o t h e r r e m a i n s in t h e Four lages h a d b e c o m e a w e l l - d e v e l o p e d a n d C o r n e r s r e g i o n tell u s , t o o , t h a t t h e s e v i l - c o m p l e x society. S o m e e v i d e n c e s e e m s t o lages w e r e p a r t of a m u c h larger A n c e s t r a l suggest that these people were sophisti- Puebloan society that occupied this region c a t e d a s t r o n o m e r s , able t o p r e d i c t t h e s e a - until a b o u t 1300. Today t h e d e s c e n d a n t s of s o n s . S u c h k n o w l e d g e w o u l d have b e e n as t h e s e p e o p l e live in t h e P u e b l o a n c o m m u - i m p o r t a n t t o a n a g r i c u l t u r a l p e o p l e as hav- nities t h a t are f o u n d t o d a y in N e w M e x i c o i n g an a d e q u a t e s u p p l y of m o i s t u r e . Yet and Arizona. n o t h i n g lasts forever. By t h e late 1200s c l i - 7_ Aerial view of the Square Tower Community at Little Ruin Canyon < m a t i c c h a n g e s , o v e r u s e of r e s o u r c e s , a n d Nearly 2,000 y e a r s a g o , s o m e A r c h a i c A g e perhaps pressure from outside forced the h u n t e r - g a t h e r e r s s t a r t e d g r o w i n g c r o p s in p e o p l e t o leave a n d j o u r n e y s o u t h t o t h e this r e g i o n . A t f i r s t t h e y t o o k s h e l t e r in shallow caves, but soon they constructed p i t h o u s e s in t h e region's valleys a n d o n Rio G r a n d e Valley a n d as f a r w e s t as t h e - H o p i villages of A r i z o n a . L i/GPO: 2000-460-976/00213 Reprint 2000 Printed on recycled paper. •-} :. 5 m a n y nearby m e s a t o p s . A b o u t t h e y e a r The Twin Towers; also visible in the lower left corner of the picture above. About Your Visit Getting There Hovenweep is open year around. Paved roads lead from both Cortez, Colorado and Blanding, Utah. Some roadways in the area remain very rough and may be impassable in stormy weather. Visitors should inquire locally before traveling any nonsurfaced roadways. Hiking Trails A self-guiding trail leads from the ranger station to the Square Tower and its associated structures. Park rangers are on duty all year to patrol sites. Ranger-guided interpretive tours are available on a seasonal basis. Group tours are available with reservations. Hiking is limited to established trails. Camping There is a small but modern campground near the ranger station, which is open seasonally on a firstcome, first-served basis. It is designed for tent camping, but at a few sites vehicles 25 feet or shorter can be accommodated. RVers note: there are no pull-throughs, no dump stations, and cornering is tight. Supplies and gasoline are not available in the park. Gasoline and limited grocery items are available at the Ismay Trading Post. Safety As in any unfamiliar, isolated, and natural area there are inherent dangers. Look before you step to make sure the path is clear. Stay away from canyon rims, and watch small children. Be sure to drink plenty of water. You can easily become dehydrated in the low humidity of the desert. Preservation All structures and objects are protected by the full force of the Antiquities Act and by other federal laws. Leave things as you find them; do not deface any structure. Information Hovenweep National Monument is administered by the National Park Service. For information call 970562-4282 or check www.nps.gov/hove on the internet. 5