"Grand Teton, Moose Entrance" by U.S. National Park Service , public domain
Mountaineering brochure for Grand Teton National Park (NP) in Wyoming. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
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Grand Teton National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Grand Teton National Park John D. Rockefeller, Jr. Memorial Parkway Mountaineering General Information The Teton Range offers some of the most accessible and diverse climbing in the country. The wide array of rock, snow and ice, and mixed routes range from easy outings to very difficult undertakings. There are many inherent risks and hazards associated with all forms of climbing and mountain travel. Risks include: lightning, rockfall, avalanches, crevasses, and extreme weather Mountain Weather Weather conditions are usually best from mid-July through August, although afternoon thundershowers are common. In the high country, late August usually sees at least one period of inclement weather including snowfall. After mid-August, major storms can occur anytime producing snow and ice on most routes. Winter weather is usually severe with heavy snowfall, high winds, and extremely cold conditions (even during the summer months). A fall on steep snow and failing to self-arrest with an ice axe is the number one cause of accidents and deaths. Please be responsible for your actions. Competent technique, experience, safety equipment, physical fitness and good judgment are essential to preventing or minimizing the chances of an accident. temperatures. During winter and early spring, avalanche danger is frequently high. Winter mountaineering trips should be undertaken only by well-equipped, self-sufficient parties with considerable experience. Spring and early summer are characterized by rain, some snow and sub-freezing temperatures. During these months, rockfall and wet-snow avalanche activity are a common. Backcountry Permits Accommodations Equipment Registration is not required for climbing, mountaineering or day hiking. A backcountry permit is required for all overnight use (fee). During summer, all permits involving climbing are issued by the Jenny Lake Ranger Station. The American Alpine Club Climbers' Ranch, a park concession, provides low-cost accommodations for climbers. For information: americanalpineclub. org/grand-teton-climbers-ranch. Park campgrounds may be used as base camps, although each campground has a limit-of stay. All overnight stays in the backcountry require a permit. Conventional mountaineering equipment is adequate for climbing in the Teton Range in summer. An ice axe and expertise in its use is the single most important technique needed for early season climbs. Climbing helmets are strongly recommended for all climbs. Climbing equipment and backpacking supplies may be purchased in the area, and a limited selection of equipment may be rented. The park does not check to see that you return safely. Provide someone with your itinerary, and have them notify authorities if you are overdue. Rescue Guidelines Self-Rescue In the event of an accident or other issue, be self reliant—focus on other party members and your own efforts! Enlist the aid of other climbers in the area. Do not depend on the park rescue team. In the event of a known injury, the rescue team will make efforts to help you. Keep in mind, however, that the decision if, when or how to initiate a search or rescue is left to the discretion of Grand Teton National Park. Many factors, such as weather, daylight, and hazards to the rescue team may delay or postpone any park rescue effort. Grand Teton National Park Rescue Team The park’s search and rescue team is fully staffed only during the summer months. If self-rescue is impossible, notify the park as quickly as possible. What to Do When an Accident Occurs Do not leave an accident victim alone unless absolutely necessary. If it is necessary to leave an injured person, provide first aid, secure the person to prevent further injury, leave food, water and warm clothes before going for help. Be able to relay the following information: name, age, weight of victim(s), exact location of the accident, nature of the injuries, time of the accident, equipment at the scene, number of persons remaining at the scene and plan of action. Search & Rescue Funding All climbers should be aware that search and rescue operations are funded from the park budget. Large expenditures may result in reduction of other services. Please send tax deductible donations to help support the rescue team: Mountain Rescue Fund, Grand Teton National Park, P.O. Box 170, Moose, WY 83012. References Several guidebooks are currently available for the Teton Range include Best Climbs: Grand Teton National Park by Richard Rossiter and A Climber's Guide to the Teton Range by Leigh N. Ortenburger and Reynold G. Jackson. Topographic trail maps are also available. These publications may be purchased at park visitor center bookstores or by mail from the Grand Teton Association, Grand Teton National Park, P.O. Box 170, Moose, WY 83012, or on the web: www. grandtetonpark.org . Guide Services Two mountaineering guide services operate in Grand Teton National Park: • Exum Mountain Guides, Inc. exumguides.com P.O. Box 8759 Jackson, WY 83002 307-733-2297 • Jackson Hole Mountain Guides jhmg.com P.O. Box 7477 Jackson, WY 83001 307-733-4979 Climbing Ethics CLIMBING INFORMATION The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is the center for climbing information from June to early-September. Climbing rangers on duty provide current information on the nature and condition of climbing routes, equipment and experience considerations, and time factors. Guidebooks, maps, and photographs of various p eaks an d routes are available to assist in planning climbs. Renew your commitment to leave no trace! We are appealing to all climbers to accept personal responsibility for the care of fragile resources. Toward this goal, please adhere to the following code of ethics for minimum impact climbing: • Use existing access trails to approach climbs. Short-cutting trails causes plant damage and erosion and is prohibited. • During approach and descent where there are no trails, carefully choose routes to avoid the heavy impact of human feet. Step on rocks and nonvegetated surfaces where possible. • Know and respect environmentally sensitive areas. Be considerate of wildlife and other users. Keep a respectful distance from all animals to avoid disturbing their natural routines. • Leave the rock and its environs in its natural condition. Avoid placing permanent protection. Motorized drills are prohibited. • Plan your trip. Know and abide by all park regulations. • Accept responsibility for yourself and others. "Leave No Trace" depends more on attitude and awareness than on regulations. • Pack out all litter. Use toilets where available or bury human waste 200' from water and high use areas. Double bag toilet paper in ziplock bags and carry it out or use natural options such as stones, sticks or snow. Only by following a minimum impact climbing ethic can outstanding natural features be protected for future generations of climbers. The future of climbing is in your hands! Rev. 07/2017