Grand Teton

Grand Teton Grand Teton National Park Wyoming National Park Service U.S Department of the Interior Official Map and Guide Towering more than a mile above the floor of the valley known as Jackson Hole, the Grand Teton rises to 1 3 , 7 7 0 feet above sea level. S e v e n Teton peaks reach above 1 2 , 0 0 0 feet elevation, high enough to support a dozen mountain glaciers. In contrast to the abrupt eastern face, the west side of the range slopes gently, showing the angle of tilt of this block resulting from the faulting process that created these mountains. Youngest of the mountains in the Rocky Mountain system, the Teton R a n g e displays some of North America's oldest rocks. Photo above bv PatO'Hara Osprey photo by Franz Camenzind The Rising Range Rocky Mountain scenery offers a myriad of dramatic vistas, but few more impressive than the Teton skyline. As the Teton R a n g e rose through sporadic earthquake-producing jolts, the valley called Jackson H o l e subsided. Because of the way the mountains f o r m e d , no foothills hide jagged peaks and broad canyons. At the base of the range, large lakes mirror the mountains on calm summer days, doubling their prominence. During the immense span of time before the mountains' rise, vast seas repeatedly advanced and retreated, leaving behind a thick, nearly flat blanket of sedimentary rock layers. B e t w e e n 6 0 and 7 0 million years ago ancestral mountains rose h e r e as a broad, northwest-trending arch, and the last seas retreated eastward. Jackson H o l e east of the arch b e c a m e the site of enormous sheets of gravel interspersed with thick volcanic ash, lava, and freshwater lake sediments. Enormous tensional faults fractured these formations, and 9 million years ago today's Teton Range started rising. Broken sedimentary layers of ancient sandstone, shale, dolomite, and limestone still cap each end and the backside of the range. T h e sandstone remnant atop Mount M o r a n , over 6 , 0 0 0 feet above the valley, o n c e connected to the same sandstone layer that now lies an estimated 2 5 , 0 0 0 feet below the valley floor. In addition to this great displacement along the Teton fault, another zone of faults within the range thrust the central peaks e v e n higher. W i n d , water, ice, and glaciers long ago stripped sedimentary layers off the central peaks, uncovering basement rock nearly as old as the Earth itself. Resistant granite, sculpted into the Grand Teton and adjacent peaks, towers as the central range's exposed core. Cascading water initially cut steep, V-shaped gorges throughout the rising range. Changes in the Earth's Rocks of all sizes, falling onto and plucked by these moving glaciers, increased their grinding power. The flanks of the range display scoured canyons that dive toward the valley. Upon leaving confining canyons, the larger glaciers spread onto the valley floor, while melting at a speed equal to their flow. An immense volume of unsorted rock, transported and dumped by these glaciers in a conveyor-belt action, formed natural dams. These now encompass lakes called Leigh, Jenny, Taggart, Bradley, and Phelps. Similarly, a lobe of the extensive Yellowstone snowcap extended southward as a broad glacier which deposited rock as Souvenirs of the most recent glacial advance, Leigh, Jenny, Bradley, Taggart, and Phelps Lakes were gouged out by mountain glaciers. Lying at the base of the Teton R a n g e the moraines surrounding these lakes contain soil which sustains substantial forests and other vegetation. This habitat supports diverse wildlife. Along the Snake EYflFiriFl History The Snake River originates in the wilderness near the south boundary of Yellowstone and meanders into Jackson Lake. From its exit through the dam the S n a k e runs swiftly eastward above the filled-in trough g o u g e d by a massive Ice A g e glacier. At Moran Junction the river turns abruptly southwest and flows down the broadened bed of the ancestral Snake, which diagonally bisects Jackson Hole. Today s river erodes hard cobbles with only a fraction of its original force. The geologic forces and natural systems that interact to produce inspiring scenery also nurture a remarkable diversity of animals. In spite of a short growing season, the Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem supports the largest elk herd remaining in the world. Many elk summer in the park. A small herd of buffalo also summers in the park and winters near the elk south of the park. M o o s e meander beside canyon streams w h e n warmth permits but seek protection from frigid winds in valley bottomlands. Pronghorn that traverse sagebrush flats must migrate southward over mountain passes to s u r v i v e . S e l d o m s e e n black bears, and an occasional grizzly north of Mount Moran, forage in canyons and woodlands to store body fat for winter sleep. People entered Jackson Hole an estimated 1 2 , 0 0 0 years ago. Archeological evidence indicates that small groups repeatedly hunted and gathered plants in the valley from 5 , 0 0 0 to 5 0 0 years before the present. During historic times no one tribe claimed ownership to Jackson Hole, but Blackfeet, Crow, Gros Ventre, Shoshone, and other Native Americans living on surrounding lands used this neutral valley during the warm months. Severe winters prevented habitation. Bald eagles and ospreys fish and nest along the Snake River. A few eagles endure the cold months. Each spring great blue herons return to their rookery at the Oxbow B e n d . Trumpeter swans, the largest North American waterfowl, build sizable pond-level nests; when ice prevails they d e p e n d on warm springs in the region. Beavers dam streams to create ponds that benefit Canada g e e s e , mallards, cinnamon teal, and a multitude of summer and migratory waterfowl. Pierce Cunningham ranched near Spread Creek about 1 8 8 9 . H e circulated a petition in 1 9 2 5 a m o n g local land owners asking W y o m i n g or the Federal G o v e r n ment to set the valley aside "for the education and e n j o y m e n t of the Nation as a whole." A self-guiding trail explores the Cunningham Cabin Historic Site. From Jackson Lake the Snake winds in braided channels for 27 miles within the park. Slower moving waters insure essential habitat for numerous aquatic animals and plants. Beavers, otters, and trout swim by moose feeding on aquatic plants. Native Snake River cutthroat trout, a distinct subspecies of the cutthroat, d e p e n d on the park s natural aquatic system for survival. Trout consume aquatic insects, invertebrates, and small fish. Bears, eagles, ospreys, and otters in turn feed on the trout. Low-growing willows thrive a m o n g tall Cottonwood, spruce, and aspen trees. Riverbanks show ever changing checkerboard patterns of plant succession because of flooding and channel shifting. These natural ecological disturbances create a mix of plant c o m m u nities that benefits the moose and beavers. W e r e it Eddie Bowman morainal ridges, damming meltwaters to create Jackson Lake. South of Jackson Lake, torrential meltwaters washed away moisture-holding clay from the cobble debris that previous glaciers spread down the valley. Sage- 0 Teton Fault Zone 0 Steep eastern face 0 Gentle western slope 0 Valley floors filled with sediments of cobbles, gravel, and sand. ^m Sedimentary rock layers climate caused long periods w h e n snowfall e x c e e d e d melting, precipitating glaciers in sizes beyond imagination. Glaciers a d v a n c e d , and in warmer times rec e d e d , in mountain gorges and out across the floor of Jackson H o l e . Southward-flowing ice more than 2 , 0 0 0 feet thick filled the valley, overriding buttes and surrounding mountains. Only the high Teton peaks pro- 0 Bedrock 0 Sedimentary rock layers now worn away; these matched layers 5. truded through engulfing ice. Mountain glaciers, particularly during the last Ice Age, widened steep gorges into broad, U-shaped canyons. Born of wilderness snowpack, the S n a k e River swells with meltwater. Trappers and settlers called it the Mad River, more than a challenge to cross during the spring. Today s challenge is to protect this powerful, life-supporting river. S e e a fine collection of Native American art at the Colter Bay Visitor Center. Exhibits illuminate the creativity, be- Wayside exhibits at many turnouts along main park roads identify major peaks and explain natural features. Turnouts also insure safe parking for viewing and photographing the mountain scene. Teton S c i e n c e School offers a wide variety of in-depth courses at the Grand Teton Environmental Education Center. This nonprofit school employs highly qualified instructors to teach a year-round spectrum of topics related to the Teton Range and Jackson H o l e . Courses for all ages in natural history and ecology stress field study s u p p l e m e n t e d by informal lectures. S u m m e r seminars last 3 to 5 days and usually cover geology, plants, animals, birds, and photography. For information and schedules, write to the Director, Teton Science School, P.O. Box 6 8 , Kelly, W Y 8 3 0 1 1 , or call (307) 7 3 3 - 4 7 6 5 . liefs, and lifestyle of numerous North American nations, especially the Plains Indians. realized that dudes winter better than cows" and started d u d e ranches. In 1 9 2 9 , much of the Teton Range received protection through the establishment of the park. After years of debate Congress added the Jackson H o l e portion in 1 9 5 0 . Prehistoric people came to f e e d the body. Today s visitors nourish the spirit. M a n a g e m e n t of the park honors the mandate to protect, for the enjoyment of future generations, the natural systems that produce the scenery and wildlife. Crosscountry skiers enjoy impressive scenery on winter's own t e r m s . W i n ter sports require preparation and appropriate gear. Moose Visitor Center serves as a registration point for all winter a c tivities. M o o s e like to eat willows along rivers and streams. W h e n bulls raise their heads while feeding on underwater aquatic ^ plants in ponds, water pours off their palmshaped antlers. Kiildeer feed and nest in wet areas, as their well camouflaged eggs suggest. Trails Ranger-led activities offer increased understanding and appreciation of park resources. The Teewinot lists a variety of talks, walks, hikes, demonstrations, and other programs conducted from mid-June through S e p t e m b e r . Slide-illustrated campfire programs cover a wide range of topics at Gros Ventre, Signal M o u n tain, and Colter Bay Amphitheaters. tain men roiiowed and trapped vaiiey b e a v e i . Brigades of trappers traversed this crossroads of the western fur trade until the era e n d e d about 1 8 4 0 . Valley settlement began in 1 8 8 4 . After 1 9 0 0 , some settlers Jerry Jacka Shown at right are, top to bottom, yellowbelly marmot, coyote, and pronghorn. Visiting the Park Teewinot, the free park newspaper, offers current information on a host of subjects, including natural history, camping, and self-guiding trails. Teewinot also contains a comprehensive list of concession services, notably l o d g i n g , restaurants, stores, gas stations, and mountaineering and float trip services. season. Meadows of scarlet gilia, balsamroot, lupine, larkspur, and wild buckwheat bloom in multiple combinations of red, yellow, blue, purple, and white. Following the valley display, many of the same wildflowers flourish in meadows along canyon iraiis. visitors to the alpine zone discover brilliant cushions of color that hug the ground, including the official flower of the park, the alpine forget-me-not. not for these continual natural changes, spruce would dominate along the banks, crowding out the willows and cottonwoods favored by moose and b e a v e r s T h e summer riverbottom teems with diving, wading, and woodland birds. During darkness owls and other predators hunt in this riparian ecosystem. O v e r a comparatively short span of time, mountain glaciers of the last major glacial period shaped the Teton skyline more than any other erosional force. At upper elevations, w h e r e the most snow accumulated, the heads of the glaciers scooped out depressions and frost wedging a u g m e n t e d their quarrying action. S h e e r cirque walls, rugged ridges, and jagged peaks reflect the slow, dynamic carving by these great masses of moving ice. Publications for sale at each visitor center by the Grand Teton Natural History Association include the official national park handbook, Grand Teton, and Association publications: Creation of the Teton Landscape, Early Days in Jackson Hole, and Teton Trails. Write to P.O. Drawer 1 7 0 , M o o s e , W Y 8 3 0 1 2 , for a complete list of books and maps. Earnings from this nonprofit corporation support the park's research and educational work. inches of snow trigger migration to the National Elk R e f u g e immediately south of the park. Fall migratory herds sometimes number 2 0 0 or more. brush identifies these washed areas of less soil w h e r e rain and melting snow percolate rapidly. Lodgepole pines and subalpine firs stand on morainal ridges that contain m o r e fine-grained soil. On alpine slopes trees and flowers struggle in fragile soil, w h e r e weather limits growth. At all elevations geology and water d e t e r m i n e vegetation, which in turn controls the variety and distribution of wildlife. At upper elevations a dozen re-established glaciers J o w l y flow from the cirques cut by Ice Age giants. Schoolroom Glacier, so named for its easily observable classic characteristics, represents but one page of the living textbook that includes the accessible rock of the Teton R a n g e , Jackson H o l e , and adjoining features. This rock offers the most complete geologic record in N o r t h A m e r i c a . F u t u r e e v e n t s will include infrequent earthquakes that signal movement along the fault zone, as the Teton Range continues to rise. Wind, water, and ice will sculpt ancient rock into a different, but no less impressive skyline. Visitor centers at Moose and Colter Bay issue permits and provide assistance and information daily from mid-May through September. M o o s e Visitor Center is o p e n daily the rest of the year on a reduced schedule and displays original oils by area artists. Park headquarters adjoins Moose Visitor Center. Colter Bay Visitor Center exhibits an extensive collection in its Indian Arts M u s e u m and offers audiovisual programs. Nearly 3 , 0 0 0 elk summer in the park. Free ranging and migratory, elk spend all summer gaining weight to sustain them through the coming winter. A few W i l d f l o w e r s in an amazing variety and profusion bloom through the warm months. Sagebrush buttercups follow receding snowpack. Springbeauties, yellowbells, and steershead blossom closely behind, growing close to the ground for protection from late snowstorms or frost. Brilliant color covers the valley floor during late J u n e , the peak of the wildflower UPTHROWN FAULT BLOCK Two rectangular blocks of the Earth's crust moved like giant trap doors, one swinging skyward to form the mountains, the other hinging downward to create the valley. W i n d , rain, ice, and glaciers constantly e r o d e d the rising range. M e a n w h i l e , enormous glaciers and torrential meltwaters flowed southward carrying cobbles, gravel, and coarse sand. T h e s e periodically leveled the floor of the sinking valley. The Greater Yellowstone Ecosystem, which includes the Teton Range and Jackson Hole, remains as the largest essentially intact natural area in the temperate zones of the Earth. Evergreen forests and wild rivers abound. Elk, buffalo, bears, eagles, and swans that once thrived nationwide now survive on this island of hope. They symbolize the remaining wilderness. Their survival, and the ecosystem that supports t h e m , will mean much to future generations. Historians credit John Colter as the first white man in the valley, entering in the winter of 1 8 0 7 - 1 8 0 8 . M o u n - Self-guiding trails provide insight into the story behind the scenery. Booklets available at each trailhead describe prominent features bordering the 2-mile Colter Bay Nature Trail, and discuss history along the >2-mile M e n o r s Ferry and the >i-mile Cunningham Cabin Trails. Trailhead locations are shown on the park map. The Cascade Canyon trail begins at the south end of Jenny Lake, and the booklet explains natural features up to Lake Solitude. 9 miles from the trailhead. Jackie Gilmore Wildflowers. Pat O'Hara Where to Watch Wildlife Bighorn sheep Willow Flats and Oxbow Bend River bottomlands and pond areas Trails traverse the valley and mountains for more than 2 0 0 miles. They provide access to backcountry lakes, streams, canyons, and camping zones. Trail difficulty levels range from easy to strenuous, and lengths vary from hikes of a few minutes to several days. Sagebrush flats Visitors who take the time to hike mountain trails discover the magnitude and hidden qualities of the peaks and canyons. The Teton Crest Trail runs from the south boundary of the park to Cascade Canyon. It offers extensive views of the range and distant land. Visitors unaccustomed to high elevations may descend to the Crest Trail from the top of the tram at Teton Village. Rewarding trails in Granite and Death Canyons connect the Crest Trail to the Valley Trail. Wooded slopes Along Teton Park Road Mountain canyons Alpine areas Early morning and evenings are best times to see many species. Winter Winter dominates the Teton country for more than half the year. D e e p snows from the west cover the backside of the range. Winds often howl past high peaks.Storm clouds may hide the mountains for days, but, after they pass, cold, clear air permits unsurpassed views. Lower t e m p e r a t u r e s and avalanche potential make mountain travel risky for those without proper k n o w l e d g e , skills, and equipment. Crosscountry skis and snowshoes permit safe travel to exceptionally quiet, often windless valley vistas. In central Jackson Hole an average of 4 feet of snow covers sagebrush and fallen trees. Nightly t e m p e r a tures often fall below - 2 5 ° F during D e c e m b e r and January, but low humidity and the warming sun greatly lessen the effects of the cold. M o o s e , coyotes, and snowshoe hares make tracks in freshly fallen snow. Seeing them enriches any ski trip. M o o s e Visitor Center distributes the map of park ski trails, along with information on weather, avalanche, and road conditions. Plows clear the main park road, but the roads at the foot of the range, and in Yellowstone, remain closed by snowpack until spring. Also at Moose, rangers provide snowshoes for twice-weekly hikes to help visitors appreciate winter in the park. Grand Teton Camping Camping is permitted in six park campgrounds. All except Jenny Lake (tents only) will accommodate trailers, RVs, and tents. Campgrounds are operated on a first-come, firstserved basis. Advance reservations are not accepted. Backcountry camping is permitted only in designated areas. A permit is required for all overnight trips. Water Safety Floating the Snake River within the park is allowed only in hand-propelled boats and rafts, but never in inner tubes. Each craft must be registered yearly at the Moose or Colter Bay Visitor Centers. Although the Snake may not seem powerful on the surface, only experienced floaters should attempt this swift, cold river. Motorboats are permitted on Jackson, Jenny (8 t i p . maximum), and Phelps Lakes. Hand-propelled craft are permitted on Jackson, Jenny, Phelps, Emma Matilda, Two Ocean, Taggart, Bradley, Bearpaw, Leigh, and String Lakes. Sailing, windsurfing, and water skiing are allowed only on Jackson Lake. A permit is required for all craft. Grand Teton National Park Wyoming Swimming in park waters is generally a cold experience. Swimming is permitted in all lakes except Jenny and Taggart. Shallow areas of Jackson, String, and Leigh Lakes have reasonable water temperatures during July and August, but there are no swimming areas with lifeguards. Swimming in the Snake River is not recommended. Water in all streams and lakes, although clean and cool, should not be drunk unless properly treated. Untreated water may contain Giardia, Campylobacter, and other harmful organisms. These can cause severe gastrointestinal distress. Before being used, untreated water must be brought to a boil to kill harmful organisms. Wildlife and W i l d f l o w e r s Feeding wildlife is proFishing Is allowed in most hibited. Animals in the park lakes and streams. park are part of preserved A Wyoming fishing liand protected natural cense is required and systems. Let animals find may be purchased at the natural foods. Many small Moose Village Store, the mammals can carry disSignal Mountain Lodge, eases and should never and the Colter Bay Tackle be touched. Larger aniShop. Visitor centers mals can be quick, powerhave information on speful, and unpredictable. cial park fishing regulaApproaching too closely tions, bait restrictions, can result in serious creel limits, and open injury. seasons. Wildflowers are part of the park's natural setting and add a special touch of color to the mountain and valley scenery. Regulations prohibit the destruction, injury, disturbance, or removal of public property or natural features including plants, animals, or rocks. Firewood may be collected for personal use if the tree is dead and down. Write to the Superintendent, Grand Teton National Park, P.O. Drawer 170, Moose, WY 83012 for assistance or information, or call (307) 733-2880. Basic information about the park is available in German, French, Spanish, or Japanese. The Superintendent of Grand Teton also administers the John D. Rockefeller, Jr., Memorial Parkway. Vehicles and Pets Drive only on established roadways and observe all posted speed limits. Use caution when passing bicycles. Dawn and twilight are excellent times to observe wildlife, so watch other drivers for sudden stops. Pull vehicles well off the road into the paved or gravel turnouts to observe wildlife and scenery or to take photographs. Be alert for large animals crossing the roads. Oversnow vehicles must be registered yearly at the Moose or Colter Bay Visitor Centers. A state snowmobile registration is also required. Snowmobiles are permitted on the park's unplowed roads and in the Potholes area when snow conditions permit. Maps of permitted snowmobile routes are available at Moose. Pets must be kept on a leash (maximum length 6 feet) at all times. Pets are not permitted in public buildings, on trails, in the backcountry (which begins 250 feet from roads), on ranger-led activities, or in visitor centers. They are prohibited in boats on rivers and lakes other than Jackson Lake. Never leave pets unattended. Pet regulations are strictly enforced. Climbing Climbing mountains is a technical sport requiring proper knowledge, experience, physical condition, and equipment. Climbers must sign in before and immediately after each climb. The Jenny Lake Ranger Station is the center for climbing information and registration from June through midSeptember. Solo climbing is not advised. frGPO: 1987-181-415/60034 T Distances are shown between markers. Do not use this map for backcountry hiking. Buy USGS topographic maps at visitor centers.