"Glacier Bay landscape, Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve, 2015." by U.S. National Park Service , public domain
Glacier BayGuide Summer 2024 |
The Summer 2024 edition of The Fairweather Visitor Guide to Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve (NP&PRES) in Alaska. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
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Glacier Bay National Park and Preserve
Summer 2024
V I S I TOR G U I D E
Trails���������������������������page 5
Łingít Homeland���������page 6
Boating & Camping...page 22
Wildlife��������������������� page 34
Table of Contents
General Information����������������������� 3–11
Welcome to Glacier Bay
Explore Glacier Bay highlights
Łingít, who have called this land home since time
immemorial, and discover the wonders that await
you.
Park Science������������������������������������ 12–17
Discover stories behind the scenery
Glacier Bay Guide�������������������������� 20-21
For boaters, kayakers, and campers
Traveling, Boating & Camping���� 22–29
Plan your adventure
Wildlife��������������������������������������������30–36
Look, listen, and protect
For Teachers������������������������������������������ 37
Share Glacier Bay with your class
For Kids�������������������������������������������������� 38
Become a Junior Ranger
Stay Connected ������������������������������������ 39
Support your park
Additional Information. . . . back cover
Emergency, Medical, and Contact Us
The Fairweather
Produced with assistance from::
Welcome to Glacier Bay National Park & Preserve,
Homeland of the Łingít since time immemorial.
Nestled in the pristine wilderness of Alaska, Glacier
Bay National Park beckons with its awe-inspiring
beauty and captivating wildlife. As you step foot into
this dynamic landscape, prepare to be enchanted by
towering glaciers, ancient fjords, and the rhythmic
calving of tidewater glaciers. Whether you arrive by
cruise ship, tour vessel, or your own private boat,
Glacier Bay promises an unforgettable adventure.
Begin your exploration at the historic Glacier Bay
Lodge, where you can rest and recharge amidst
breathtaking views. The visitor center, perched on
the second floor of the lodge in Bartlett Cove, is a
treasure trove of knowledge. Here, friendly park
rangers await, eager to share insights about the park’s
history, geology, and wildlife. Learn about the Huna
Venture beyond the lodge to Bartlett Cove, where
developed trails lead you through lush forests and
along the rugged shoreline. Keep your eyes peeled for
bald eagles soaring overhead and playful sea otters
frolicking in the icy waters. As you explore the 2.7
million acres of designated wilderness, witness the
grandeur of glaciers as they flow into the sea. Glacier
Bay is a symphony of nature—a place where puffins
dive, bears roam, and the ancient ice whispers its
timeless secrets.
Whether you’re a seasoned adventurer or a curious
first-time visitor, Glacier Bay invites you to create
lasting memories. So grab your binoculars, breathe
in the crisp air, and embark on a journey that will
forever connect you to this extraordinary corner of
the world. Welcome to Glacier Bay National Park &
Preserve!
Tom Schaff,
Superintendent
Designed by: National Park Service and Alaska Geographic
Park Coordinator, Editor, & Graphics: Sean Tevebaugh
Contributors: Laura Buchheit, Brian Buma, Matthew Cahill,
Caitlin Daly, Sara Doyle, Sean Eagan, Chris Gabriele, Scott
Gende, Alex Gulick, Margaret Hazen, Philip Hooge, Martin
Hutten, Emma Johnson, Tania Lewis, Sandy Milner, Mary
Beth Moss, Janet Neilson, Steven Schaller, Melissa Senac, Tom
Schaff, Lewis Sharman, Darlene See, Rachel Serebryansky, Don
Starbard, Jen Todd.
Special thanks to the following photographers:
Kaytie Boomer, Michael Bower, Brian Buma, Sara Doyle, Janene
Driscoll (inside cover), Chris Gabriele, Tania Lewis, Dan Mann,
Craig Murdoch, Janet Neilson, Sean Neilson, Steven Schaller,
Sean Tevebaugh (front cover), Melissa Senac and NPS seasonal
staff.
©Alaska Geographic
Visitors to Bartlett Cove experience the wild, glacial landscape of
Glacier Bay.
Glacier Bay rangers are excited and prepped to greet you!
3
Explore Bartlett Cove
Trails
Bartlett Cove is the only developed area within
the wilds of Glacier Bay. The forests and
shorelines offer great opportunities for hiking.
Maps are available online and at the Glacier Bay
Lodge and Visitor Information Station (VIS).
Forest Trail
Distance: 0.7 miles (1.1 km) one way
Time: 30 minutes–1.5 hours
This leisurely stroll meanders through a lush
forest that grows atop a glacial moraine. A
wheelchair accessible boardwalk takes you part
of the way, leading to two viewing decks that
overlook a serene pond. Return along the shore
for an easy one-mile loop.
The shores of Bartlett Cove offer opportunities to explore...
If you just have a few hours...
If you have a half day...
Stop by the Visitor Center: On the second floor of the
Glacier Bay Lodge is the National Park Service (NPS)
information desk and exhibits. Open daily when lodge
is open. Educational materials and souvenirs available
for purchase from Alaska Geographic.
Hike to the Bartlett River: See trail details, page 5.
Walk the Forest Trail: See trail details, page 5.
If you have a full day...
Go for a beach walk: See trail details, page 5.
Explore the intertidal zone at low tide: See map
page 5.
Hike to Bartlett Lake: See trail details, page 5.
Join a Ranger Program: See bulletin boards or park
website for schedule of activities happening during
your visit.
Go for a paddle: There are several options for kayaking
around Bartlett Cove. Take a guided kayak trip, or rent
your own from Glacier Bay Sea Kayaks.
Visit the Whale Exhibit: See one of the largest
humpback whale skeletons on display in the world.
Located near the Visitor Information Station.
Become a Junior Ranger: Kids can pick up their free
Junior Ranger Activity Book from the NPS information
desk at the Glacier Bay Lodge, or from the Visitor
Information Station (VIS). See page 38.
View the Tribal House and the Healing Totem Pole:
Walk along the Łingít Trail to explore Huna Łingít
connections to Glacier Bay. See pages 6–8.
Explore Glacier Bay on the Dayboat: Spend the day
exploring Glacier Bay to observe wildlife and tidewater
glaciers. Stop by the lodge for availability.
Get the Latest Schedule of Events
Please see the NPS Visitor
Center information desk in the Glacier Bay
Lodge, the bulletin board in front of the
lodge, or the Visitor Information Station
(VIS) near the public dock for updates and
information on available services. The
schedule is also available on the “Calendar”
page on NPS.gov/GLBA
4
Łingít Trail
Distance: 0.5 mile (800 m) one way
Time: 30 minutes–1 hour
Enjoy this easy stroll along a forested shoreline.
View the Healing Totem Pole and a traditional
Łingít dugout canoe, admire a complete whale
skeleton, learn about common native plants, and
take in the Raven and Eagle totems, as well as the
exterior of the Tribal House.
Bartlett River Trail
Distance: 4 miles (6.4 km) round trip
Time: 4–5 hours
Explore a dense spruce-hemlock rainforest. The
trail through the forest ends at an estuary near
the mouth of the river. Each summer, spawning
salmon attract otters, eagles, seals, and bears.
Bartlett Lake Trail
Distance: 8 miles (16 km) round trip
Time: 7–8 hours
About ¾ of a mile down the Bartlett River Trail
you will find the lake trail, a branch trail that
climbs the moraine. This primitive trail is a
rugged day-hike, with rewards of solitude and a
tranquil lake. Bring water, food, and rain gear.
Explore the Shore
Distance: varies
The shoreline beyond the docks continues for
miles past the campground. You may observe
land and marine wildlife. Look for birds, listen
for whales, and watch for sea otters feeding near
shore. This is not a maintained trail.
5
Xunaa Shuká Hít
Xunaa Shuká Hít stands proudly on the shores of Bartlett Cove.
Dressed in a traditional beaded vest, Łingít elder,
Wakéesh Don Starbard, shares with visitors: “There’s
a good balance now. Yes, our young people are going
off to college to become successful. But our language
is strong. Our dance is strong. Our canoe culture is
strong, and, most importantly, our connection to
Homeland remains strong.” All summer long, visitors
gather at the Tribal House. They listen to traditional
stories and explore the intricately carved and painted
building. Tribal interpreters working for the National
Park Service (NPS) and the Hoonah Indian Association
(HIA), the tribal government, share deeply of their
traditions, history, enduring connection to Glacier Bay
Homeland, and the collaborative efforts that led to the
completion of this magnificent building.
throughout Glacier Bay prior to the Little Ice Age.
Although villages inside the bay were overrun by
glacial advances in the 1700s, the Huna Łingít reestablished fish camps and seasonal villages soon
after glacial retreat. Establishment of Glacier Bay
National Monument in 1925 (and later National Park)
and implementation of laws and park regulations led
to a period of alienation and strained relationships
between tribal members and the NPS. Time and new
understandings have brought much healing. In recent
years, the NPS and HIA worked cooperatively to
reinvigorate traditional activities, develop cultural
programs for youth and adults, amend regulations to
allow for a broader range of traditional harvests in park
boundaries, and preserve oral histories.
For countless generations, the Huna Łingít sustained
themselves on the abundant resources found
The most symbolic cooperative venture—Xunaa Shuká
Hít (roughly translated as Huna Ancestors’ House)—
HIA tribal interpreter leads a group down the Łingít Trail to
Xunaa Shuká Hít.
6
Hoonah youth welcome traditional dugout canoes on Bartlett
Cove’s shoreline during the 2018 Healing Totem Pole Dedication.
Tribal members dance and sing during the August 2016 Tribal
House Dedication.
NPS tribal interpreter shares messages represented within the
Raven and Eagle totems.
now stands proudly on the shoreline of Bartlett Cove.
Dedicated in August 2016 and opened to the public in
summer 2017, it now draws thousands of visitors from
around the world.
Pole). This totem, collaboratively designed by NPS and
HIA, reveals the story of the journey through a painful
past to a healthier, more meaningful partnership.
Xunaa Shuká Hít is a place of learning, growth,
inspiration, and continued healing for generations to
come.
A team of clan leaders, craftsmen, planners, architects,
and cultural resource specialists designed Xunaa
Shuká Hít to reflect a traditional architectural style
reminiscent of ancestral clan houses with modern
touches suitable for the needs of the community today.
Inside the Tribal House are four richly detailed cedar
interior house posts and an interior house screen
which depicts the stories of the four primary Huna
Łingít clans and their tie to Glacier Bay Homeland.
These cultural elements impart spiritual value to the
Tribal House, and, as importantly, their design and
completion expand the circle of tribal members who
hold traditional skills and share in cultural knowledge.
The 2,500 square foot Tribal House is not only a
place for visitors to learn about Łingít traditions, but
is also a venue for tribal members to reconnect with
their traditional homeland, life-ways, and ancestral
knowledge. Within months of its dedication, the Tribal
House inspired native high school students to spend
their winter school break at the Tribal House learning
traditional crafts from elders and culture bearers.
Months later, hundreds of tribal members gathered to
raise the Eagle and Raven totem poles that grace the
sides of Xunaa Shuká Hít. In August 2018, these poles
were joined by Yaa Naa Néx Kootéeyaa (Healing Totem
Images of the Huna Tribal House dedication and
carving projects are available on the park’s website
under the Tribal House Media Gallery. To learn more
about special events and opportunities to experience
the Tribal House, check the posted activity schedules in
Bartlett Cove or ask a ranger.
Visit NPS.gov to learn more:
Traditional songs inspire the strength and stamina to carry the
Raven and Eagle totems at the May 2017 Totem Raising.
7
Yaa Naa Néx Kootéeyaa
Glaciers
I believe we are on a path - that our people will be remembered...”
- Frank Wright Jr, President of Hoonah Indian Association
Our pole...is a story pole. It is, essentially, the
recorded history, not only of the Huna Łingít,
not only of Glacier Bay National Park, but
of our long, sometimes painful, sometimes
joyous, journey together.
- Philip Hooge
Glacier Bay Superintendent, 2014 - 2020
Journey of Healing
Philip Hooge (left) and Frank
Wright, Jr. (right) at the Healing
Totem Pole Dedication.
Raised on August 25, 2018, Yaa Naa Néx Kootéeyaa (Healing Totem
Pole) tells the story of the long journey for both Huna Łingít and the
National Park Service (NPS) to heal years of misunderstandings and
hurt.
Designed collaboratively by tribal elders, carvers, and NPS staff,
the pole contains a mix of traditional formline design and modern
representations of symbols—differentiating it from other poles in
Southeast Alaska.
Glacier Bay is the traditional home
and “breadbasket” of the Huna
Łingít—sustaining them physically
and spiritually until a rapidly
advancing glacier pushed them out
in the late 1700s.
The Huna Łingít felt that the
federal government—a faceless,
soulless being with too many
hands—barred them from many
traditional practices upon their
return after the glacier receded.
A glacier flows from the Fairweather Mountains. Glaciers continue to change in response to their environment.
Rivers of Ice
Tall, coastal mountains and an abundance of snow
make Glacier Bay a comfortable home for hundreds
of glaciers. Storms from the Pacific Ocean collide with
the towering Fairweather Mountains, often producing
rain at sea level and snow at higher elevations. The snow
compacts, forming ice. With the influence of gravity,
the ice slides down the mountainside. Basically, ice in
motion is a glacier.
As a glacier flows down the mountainside, it reaches
warmer elevations. When the air above a glacier is above
freezing or if it is raining, then ice melts. The balance
between the amount of ice forming and ice melting
determines whether a glacier advances (grows) or
retreats (shrinks), though it always flows forward.
Traditional dugout canoes
support healing journeys
cooperatively planned by
NPS and the Hoonah Indian
Association—connecting tribal
members with Glacier Bay
Homeland.
Visit the Healing Totem Pole next to the Visitor Information
Station, and read the complete story from bottom to top at our
website: go.NPS.gov/HealingTotem
8
Glaciers shrink in size when more ice is lost from melting than
gained from snowfall.
“Words and dry figures can give one little idea
of the grandeur of this glacial torrent flowing
steadily and solidly into the sea, and the beauty
of the fantastic ice front, shimmering with all the
prismatic hues, beyond imagery or description.”
-Eliza Scidmore, 1883
A few glaciers, called tidewater glaciers, reach all the
way to the ocean and are strong enough to survive
with their ice touching warm ocean water. Tidewater
glaciers have a naturally occurring cycle of advance
and retreat that has shaped Glacier Bay for millennia. A
few hundred years ago, a glacier that sat mid-way down
the bay for centuries advanced rapidly until it came to
the waters of Icy Strait. The salty ocean water caused
the glacial ice to melt and dramatically break away in
a process called calving. Snowfall couldn’t keep up
with the amount of melting and calving, so the glacier
retreated quickly. All of the glaciers visitors see in the
park today are remnants of that once large glacier.
Changes to glacial ice continue in Glacier Bay. While
tidewater glaciers are still influenced by ocean water,
all glaciers are now impacted by a rapidly warming
planet. Glacier Bay National Park will continue to study
glaciers as the climate warms. As a living laboratory,
Glacier Bay provides outstanding opportunities to
explore the intricate dynamics of glaciers.
9
Timeline of Glacier Bay
1980 Congress, under
1794 Captain George
Since time immemorial,
Łingít clans live in the area that
is now Glacier Bay. Advancing
glaciers in the 1700s during the
Little Ice Age force the Łingít
out of their Homeland. After
the Little Ice Age, the glacier
melts back and the ocean fills
the valley quickly, creating
Glacier Bay.
1750
1770s–1790s
European explorers arrive.
Excursions led by Captains
Malaspina, La Perouse, Cook,
Vancouver, and many others
provide the first western
descriptions of the area and its
people. Cartographers create
the first maps of the area and
non-Native names are given to
landforms.
10
Vancouver of the H.M.S.
Discovery and Lt. Joseph
Whidbey describe Glacier
Bay as “a compact sheet of
ice as far as the eye could
distinguish.” The “bay” is a
mere five-mile indentation
in the coastline.
1800
1925 Ecologist William
1883 James Carroll and other
commercial steamship captains
make Muir Glacier a popular
tourist destination.
1850
1900
Park Service and Hoonah
Indian Association
sign a Memorandum of
Understanding to establish
a working partnership.
1950
1916 U.S. Congress passes
the Organic Act, creating the
National Park Service.
part of the “Mission 66” initiative
that brought facility improvements
to national parks nationwide during
the 50th anniversary of the National
Park Service.
2023 Glacier
Bay welcomed an
estimated 703,659
visitors to the
park, breaking our
visitation record
from 2019. More
than 90% visited via
cruise ship.
2000
2016 The National
1966 Glacier Bay Lodge opens as
1879 John Muir, guided by Łingít
men, paddles into Glacier Bay. They
find the glacial ice has retreated 40
miles since 1794. Muir returns three
times over the next 15 years. He
constructs a cabin, makes extensive
observations of glaciers, and
explains interglacial tree stumps.
The eloquent writings of enthusiasts
like Muir and Eliza Scidmore begin
attracting new visitors to the bay.
S. Cooper, studying plant
succession in Glacier Bay,
and the Ecological Society
of America persuade
President Coolidge to
establish Glacier Bay
National Monument.
the leadership of President
Jimmy Carter, signs the
Alaska National Interest
Lands Conservation Act
into law. Glacier Bay
becomes a national park
and preserve encompassing
3.3 million acres.
1995 The National
1992 UNESCO designates
Glacier Bay, along with
Wrangell-St. Elias National Park
and Preserve (Alaska), Kluane
National Park Reserve (Canada)
and Tatshenshini-Alsek
Provincial Park (Canada), as a
24-million-acre World Heritage
Site, one of the world’s largest
internationally protected areas.
Park Service celebrates
its centennial: 100 years
of “America’s Best Idea.”
Glacier Bay celebrates
with the opening of the
Huna Tribal House, a
collaborative venture
with the Hoonah Indian
Association. The building
serves as a cultural anchor
and a place of learning.
11
Park Science
Visitors and researchers alike from around the world
explore and admire Glacier Bay. The dramatic retreat
of glaciers created a premiere scientific laboratory.
Explorer John Muir initiated the park’s remarkable
legacy of scientific inquiry in the late 1800s. Botanist
William Cooper secured protected status for Glacier
Bay following his research about how plant life
follows glacial retreat. In fact, the initial proclamation
protecting Glacier Bay National Park states research
as a reason for national preservation. From whales and
plankton to climate and otters, research is a common
occurrence in the protected laboratory of Glacier Bay.
This scientific study provides a greater understanding
and appreciation for the wilderness we explore. Learn
more by reading the following pages and make your
own discoveries in Glacier Bay.
“The most beautiful thing we can experience
is the mysterious. It is the source of all true art
and science.”
- Albert Einstein
William S. Cooper recognized Glacier Bay as a living laboratory. He studied the process of pioneer plants colonizing land recently
revealed by retreating glaciers.
megafauna and fisheries, and more. One study looked
at the grazing dynamics of recovering green sea turtle
populations in seagrass meadows. Alex’s work helped
scientists and resource managers better understand
the sustainability of increasing grazing pressure and
the roles large herbivores fulfill in coastal ecosystems.
Alex conducted this research in collaboration with the
National Park Service, where she became interested in
the role the NPS plays in guiding essential management
efforts to protect ecosystems and wildlife.
Alex conducting underwater field research at Buck Island Reef
National Monument, U.S. Virgin Islands.
Meet a researcher
Alex Gulick, Marine Ecologist
Alexandra (Alex) Gulick is Glacier Bay National Park
and Preserve’s new Supervisory Marine Ecologist.
Hailing from Eastern Oregon, Alex found an interest
in marine biology at a young age. After attending a
middle-school marine science summer camp on the
Oregon Coast, she discovered a love for the ocean and
the marine life that thrives in the Pacific Northwest.
Alex pursued her passion for the ocean as a marine
ecologist and research scientist. She studied Biology
(Marine Emphasis) at Oregon State University, where
she completed a Bachelor of Science, then earned a PhD
in Zoology at the University of Florida. She has studied
a variety of ocean ecosystems, addressing research
questions related to flora and fauna relationships,
benthic ecology, population dynamics of marine
12
Helping establish marine research programs and
striving for positive change led Alex to Glacier Bay
today. Here, she will oversee the study and management
of the exciting and complex dynamics of Glacier Bay’s
vast marine environment. Alex is thrilled to be living in
Alaska, joining several family members in the Southeast
Alaska region. Growing up in a rural small town, she’s
excited to join Gustavus, Glacier Bay’s neighboring
gateway community, allowing for opportunities to
spend time in nature and enjoy this wild, remote
Southeast Alaska environment. In her off time, Alex
is excited about kayaking trips, fishing, diving, and
starting a garden in a new home.
Alex has a passion for learning about marine
ecosystems and developing ecosystem-based
management strategies. What drives change in any
given ecosystem? How should park managers monitor
and manage these ecosystems and mitigate human
impacts? Alex hopes to contribute to answering some of
these questions, so that Glacier Bay remains one of the
world’s wildest marine environments.
A Vision of Preservation
People visit Glacier Bay to view amazing scenery,
dramatic glaciers, and spectacular wildlife. Yet a
century ago one man saw something else of great value
here: incredible opportunities for science.
monument. One of the monument’s fundamental
mandates was to preserve the opportunity to conduct
scientific studies, making Glacier Bay a true “park for
science.”
Botanist William Skinner Cooper (1884–1978) came
to Glacier Bay in 1916 to study how plants colonize
newly-exposed ground following glacial retreat. He
recognized Glacier Bay as the best place on earth to
witness the process of “plant succession,” a fascinating
interplay of plants, nutrients, soil, and time. In this
process the bare ground emerging from beneath a
glacier goes through various stages to become a rich,
thick, mossy evergreen forest of towering spruces and
hemlocks.
Dr. Cooper returned to his beloved Glacier Bay many
times to document the successional development in the
study areas and plots he established on his first visit.
Dr. Cooper’s students and other scientists continue his
work on how ecosystems respond to glacial recession
and, more broadly, global climate change. This ongoing
research makes Glacier Bay the oldest continuously
researched post-glacial landscape in the world.
Dr. Cooper saw a natural laboratory in Glacier Bay
where scientific principles could be discovered as
well as tested; a place where completely new scientific
questions could be asked. As a prominent member
of the Ecological Society of America, Dr. Cooper
successfully led a committee of colleagues in a vigorous
campaign to lobby President Calvin Coolidge for
protection of the Glacier Bay area in 1925 as a national
Glacier Bay is preserved
as public land for many
reasons: protection of
wildlife habitat, scenery,
value to the world,
enjoyment by present
and future generations,
and as a living laboratory.
Glacier Bay still inspires
new discoveries today.
Ecologist Brian Buma continues
the legacy of research on
Dr. Cooper’s original plots.
From rock to rainforest—in just 75 years! Images taken at the same location document the landscape changes.
13
Park Science
Ninety-five percent of Alaska’s glaciers are thinning, stagnating, or retreating.
The Ice Is Melting
The Earth’s climate is changing—and fast! In Glacier
Bay, glaciers are rapidly shrinking and the ocean
temperature is rising. Scientists who study the Earth’s
climate have documented warming temperatures in
Alaska due to increased carbon dioxide levels. Warming
temperatures lead to changes in fire cycles, tree growth,
animal migrations, and rapidly melting glaciers.
Ninety-five percent of Alaska’s glaciers are currently
retreating, thinning, or stagnating. Importantly, the
rate of thinning is increasing. Glacier Bay’s glaciers
follow this trend. Recent research determined that
the area covered by ice in Glacier Bay has shrunk 15%
from 1950 to now. Nevertheless, heavy snowfall in the
towering Fairweather Mountains means that a few
glaciers might remain stable in Glacier Bay, a rarity in
today’s world. Take a good look at the glaciers you see in
Glacier Bay today. The next time you see these glaciers,
they will be different.
Alaska and other polar regions experience the effects
of climate change more strongly than other places.
Decades of data from NASA’s Goddard Institute for
Space Studies show that Alaska and the polar regions
have warmed more than twice as much as the rest of
the earth. Climate change is a reality for Alaskans,
threatening villages with coastal erosion, changing
subsistence practices, and altering weather patterns.
Ask park rangers about what changes they have noticed
in Glacier Bay.
14
There is good news. Humans are inventive, resourceful,
and capable of overcoming great challenges. Although
climate change is a global concern, we each hold a part
of the answer to minimizing its impact.
The Earth’s climate is changing and Glacier Bay is
warming. How will these changes affect you? One
fact is certain: the choices we make today will make a
difference in the future.
For more information about climate change in national parks,
visit www.nps.gov/climatechange
Aerial photography is used by National Park Service scientists to monitor harbor seal populations.
Seals as Sentinels of Ice Dynamics
In tidewater glacier fjords, harbor seals’ lives are tied to
readily available glacial ice.
calving dynamics of tidewater glaciers may influence
ice availability in Johns Hopkins Inlet.
Tidewater glaciers are the source of vital habitat for
harbor seals (Phoca vitulina richardii). Icebergs calved
from glaciers serve as pupping, molting, and resting
habitat for some of the largest seasonal gatherings of
harbor seals in the world. Glacier Bay, specifically Johns
Hopkins Inlet, hosts one of the largest aggregations of
harbor seals in southeastern Alaska. Johns Hopkins
Inlet is an expansive tidewater glacier fjord in the upper
West Arm where over 75% of seals in Glacier Bay occur.
Icebergs provide benefits to seals such as reducing
the risk of predation from orca and providing a stable
platform for nursing young seal pups during the brief
lactation period. Harbor seals show strong site fidelity
to Johns Hopkins Inlet from May to August during the
pupping and molting seasons; however, they may travel
extensively outside of Glacier Bay during non-breeding
season.
Tidewater glaciers are dynamic, advancing and
retreating in response to local climatic and fjord
conditions. Today, the majority of tidewater glaciers
around the world are thinning and retreating. While
the ice front of Johns Hopkins Glacier has slowly
advanced by 2 km (1.2 mi) since the 1920s, it has begun
thinning. If the thinning continues, the glacier may
start to retreat in the near future. Climate change
models predict continued loss of ice which will have
many consequences to wildlife, such as harbor seals.
The physical processes that influence calving dynamics
of tidewater glaciers and ultimately the availability of
icebergs can influence seal distribution, abundance,
and behavior. Given that harbor seals rely on glacier ice
as habitat for critical life history events, such as pupping
(May-June) and molting (August), seals may ultimately
serve as sentinels of ice dynamics in these rapidly
changing tidewater glacier fjord ecosystems.
The National Park Service (NPS) conducts annual
aerial photographic surveys to monitor the number
and trend of harbor seals in Johns Hopkins Inlet. Since
the early 1990s, the number of seals has declined from
over 6,000 to approximately 2,000 in more recent years.
To better understand how changes in ice habitat may
influence harbor seals, glaciologists from University
of Alaska Southeast and the National Park Service are
collaborating with NPS biologists to quantify how the
Harbor seals rely on ice calved by glaciers for pupping and
molting.
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Park Science
Icebergs calved from Grand Plateau Glacier in Grand Plateau Lake.
Cataclysmic Landscape Change
Glacier Bay scientists and cruise ship pilots are working together to study and protect humpback whales.
New Tools for Avoiding Whale-Ship Collisions
Glacier Bay National Park is the same size as the
state of Connecticut, 3.3 million acres, though they
are certainly very different! For example, while
Connecticut has more than 20,000 miles of public
roadways, Glacier Bay has only six miles. Yet thousands
of people travel through Glacier Bay on another
“highway”: Glacier Bay’s extensive waterway.
Navigating a ship has some similar hazards as driving a
car, such as wildlife avoidance. While drivers in other
national parks watch out for squirrels and deer jumping
into the road, cruise ship pilots in Glacier Bay are alert
for humpback whales suddenly appearing in front of
their vessels. In fact, research has documented that over
75% of ships in Glacier Bay experience whales surfacing
within 3,280 feet (1,000 meters) of the ship’s bow.
Seeing a whale close to a ship is exciting, yet can
also be perilous to whales. Whales are often focused
on feeding, so they are not always aware of a ship’s
presence nearby. In order to keep people and whales
safe in Southeast Alaska, Glacier Bay is collaborating
with several organizations to develop best practices to
minimize the chance of a whale-ship collision.
Since 2012, Glacier Bay scientists have worked with
experienced marine pilots to test and implement
techniques for avoiding whales. A new training
currently under joint production will provide marine
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pilots the opportunity to “practice” whale avoidance
techniques in a simulator. This training curriculum
is the first of its kind to couple the science of whale
behavior with the professional discipline of ship
maneuvering.
Another collaborative tool is Whale Alert. Throughout
Southeast Alaska, cruise ship pilots and biologists are
working to produce near real-time whale sighting maps
through a smart phone or tablet application. Ships
can then avoid current locations where whales are
congregating, thereby reducing the risk of a collision.
Visitors keeping a watchful eye on the water have
a great chance of seeing a humpback whale while
traveling on the Glacier Bay waterway. New tools are
helping “drivers” in Glacier Bay avoid whale-ship
collisions.
For more information
on Whale Alert and for
the free app, visit
www.whalealert.org
Within Glacier Bay’s dramatic landscape, significant
changes continue due to the earth’s warming climate.
Recently, monumental landslides have occurred
due to glaciers shrinking and