Fort Union

Fort Union Fort Union National Monument New Mexico National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior “Wagon Train Near Wagon Mound,” from the painting by Nick Eggenhofer. NPS Defender of the Southwest “Many ladies greatly dislike Fort Union. It has always been noted for severe duststorms. Situated on a barren plain, the nearest mountains . . . three miles distant, it has the most exposed position of any military fort in New Mexico. . . . The hope of having any trees, or even a grassy parade-ground, had been abandoned long before our residence there. . . . Every eye is said to form its own beauty. Mine was disposed to see much in Fort Union, for I had a home there.” —Mrs. Orsemus B. Boyd, 1894, recalling her residence at Fort Union in 1872 When New Mexico became United States territory after the U.S.Mexican War, the army established garrisons in towns scattered along the Rio Grande to protect the area’s inhabitants and travel routes. This arrangement proved unsatisfactory for a number of reasons, and in April 1851, Lt. Col. Edwin V. Sumner, commanding Military Department No. 9 (which included New Mexico Territory), was ordered “to revise the whole system of defense” for the entire territory. Among his first acts was to break up the scattered garrisons and relocate them in posts closer to the Indians. He also moved his headquarters and supply depot from Santa Fe, “that sink of vice and extravagance,” to a site near the Mountain and Cimarron branches of the Santa Fe Trail, where he established Fort Union. The first of the three forts built in this valley was begun in August 1851. For a decade it served as the base for military operations in the area and a key station on the Santa Fe Trail, affording travelers a place to rest nearby and refit at the post sutler’s store before continuing their journey. It also became the principal quartermaster depot of the Southwest. During the 1850s, dragoons and mounted riflemen from the fort campaigned against several Indian tribes living in or around the southern Rocky Mountains that were disrupting traffic on the Santa Fe Trail. One of the earliest campaigns was directed against the Jicarilla Apaches who, in the spring of 1854, surprised and nearly wiped out a company of dragoons. The Apaches were driven into the mountains west of the Rio Grande and routed. Military operations were also conducted against Utes of southern Colorado in 1855 and against Kiowas and Comanches raiding the plains east of the fort in 1860–61. When the Civil War began in April 1861, most of the regular troops (except those officers who joined the South) were with- drawn from Fort Union and other frontier posts and replaced by volunteer regiments. Anticipating a Confederate invasion of New Mexico, Col. Edward R.S. Canby, charged with the territory’s defense, concentrated troops at Fort Craig on the Rio Grande and sent soldiers from Fort Union to patrol the Santa Fe Trail, now the main artery of supply for Federal forces. He also ordered construction of the second Fort Union, a star-shaped earthen fortification, to strengthen defenses. The second fort never saw the action for which it was designed. The Confederate invasion was halted and turned back in March 1862 by a force of Colorado and New Mexico Volunteers and U.S. Regulars from Fort Union at the Battle of Glorieta Pass, about 20 miles southeast of Santa Fe. The Confederates withdrew to Texas, effectively ending Civil War activity in the Southwest, and the second Fort Union was soon thereafter abandoned. In 1863, with New Mexico securely in Federal hands, the new departmental commander, Brig. Gen. James H. Carleton, began construction of the third (and final) Fort Union, whose ruins you see here today. This sprawling installation, which took six years to complete, was the most extensive in the territory. It included not only a military post, with all its attendant structures, but a sepa- rate quartermaster depot with warehouses, corrals, shops, offices, and quarters. The supply function overshadowed that of the military and employed far more men, mostly civilians. An ordnance depot, erected on the site of the first fort at the western edge of the valley, rounded out the complex. Throughout the 1860s and the 1870s troops from Fort Union continued to participate in operations against Indians. Several relentless campaigns against the Apaches, Navajos, Cheyennes, Arapahos, Kiowas, Utes, and Comanches finally brought peace to the southern Plains in the spring of 1875, albeit on the white man’s terms. Though Fort Union’s involvement in the Indian wars had come to an end, its garrison occasionally helped to track down outlaws, quell mob violence, and mediate feuds. The supply depot continued to flourish until 1879, when the Santa Fe Railroad replaced the Santa Fe Trail as the principal avenue of commerce. By 1891 the fort had outlived its usefulness and was abandoned. The Santa Fe Trail From 1821, when trader William Becknell opened it, until 1879, when the Santa Fe Railroad reached Las Vegas, the Santa Fe Trail served as a vital artery of commerce, travel, and communication. Today the crumbling adobe walls of Fort Union recall those years of frontier military activity. And the nPs Third Fort Union, 1863–91 The fort, shown here from the bluffs to the west in Joseph Hager’s 1859 drawing, consisted of a collection of shabby log buildings needing almost constant repair. It was established to protect travelers on the Santa Fe Trail and local residents from Indian threats, as well as to provide a headquarters for the Ninth Military Department (later reorganized and renamed the Military Department of New Mexico). Most traces of the fort have vanished. The ruins there today are those of the Fort Union Ordnance Depot, constructed in the 1860s. This area is not accessible to the public. This massive earthwork, shown here in an 1866 photograph, was designed to help defend the Santa Fe Trail against a threatened Confederate invasion. One officer called this fortification “as fine a work of its kind as I ever saw,” but the parapets soon eroded into the ditch, and the rooms were damp, unventilated, and consequently unhealthy. Most of the troops refused to live in such conditions and camped in tents outside. The second fort was abandoned after the Confederate invasion was turned back in March 1862. The third and last fort, part of which, the Mechanics Corral, is shown here, was almost a city in itself. Erected between 1863 and 1869, and modified somewhat during the 1870s, it consisted of the military post of Fort Union and the Fort Union Quartermaster Depot and served as the principal supply base for the Military Department of New Mexico. Arriving from the east over the Santa Fe Trail, shipments of food, clothing, arms, and ammunition, as well as tools and building materials, were unpacked and stored in warehouses, then assigned as needed to other forts. Like most southwestern military posts, Fort Union was not enclosed by a wall or stockade. NPS Second Fort Union, 1861–62 ArizonA Pioneers HistoricAl society First Fort Union, 1851–61 vanishing ruts cut in the prairie sod by military freight wagons (left), merchant/trader caravans, stagecoaches, and military columns recall the great flow of traffic that made the Santa Fe Trail so significant in the history of the West. Superb remains of the trail have survived throughout northeastern New Mexico, and in the vicinity of Fort Union ruts of both branches of the trail may still be viewed by today’s travelers. nPs threats. But if a wagon train could make it through the desert and avoid the Indians, a trader could beat his rivals to Santa Fe and reap the first and biggest profit. The American portion of the Santa Fe Trail began on the west bank of the Missouri River, first at Franklin, then at Independence, later at Westport. It led west through Council Grove to Fort Dodge, Kan., where it forked, one route going southwest through the Cimarron Desert and the other continuing west into Colorado and then turning south at Bent’s Fort. Both branches merged just beyond Fort Union, 75 miles from Santa Fe. The Cimarron route was the shorter and more dangerous because of infrequent waterholes and continuing Indian Touring Fort Union Along Post Officers’ Row. Inside the Depot’s Mechanics Corral. A word of caution: Fort Union is being preserved as an outdoor museum. While every effort has been made to provide for your safety, you must remain alert and exercise caution during your visit. The ruins, though stabilized, can fall if climbed on. Stay on the established paths and be alert for rattlesnakes when the ground is warm. If you do encounter one, back away slowly, go around it, and report it to a park ranger. More Information Fort Union National Monument P.O. Box 127 Watrous, NM 87753 505-425-8025 www.nps. gov/foun Also, thunderstorms with accompanying lightning, hail, strong winds, and an occasional tornado are common during summer afternoons. Be alert, watch the clouds. Fort Union is one of over 390 parks in the National Park System. To learn more about parks and National Park Service programs in America’s communities, visit www.nps.gov. Post Officers’ Quarters Mechanics Corral NPS NPS The ruins of Fort Union are an impressive memorial to the men and women who won the West. It may be difficult, however, to look at these melted adobe walls and the few chimneys that rise above ground level and realize that this was once the largest U.S. military installation on the 19th-century southwestern frontier. The diagram below, which you should use while touring the ruins, is an attempt to recapture something of the size, appearance, and functions of the original Fort Union complex. The stone building foundations and some of the adobe walls are still visible, so you should have no difficulty matching what you see on the site to appropriate locations on the diagram. A self-guiding trail (shown in white on the diagram) leads through the ruins and to the remains of the second fort erected during the Civil War. The ruins of the ordnance depot are visible across the valley to the west, on the first fort site. NPS Fort Union National Monument is 28 miles north of Las Vegas, N. Mex., on I-25. Take exit 366 and then drive eight miles west on N. Mex. 161. The park is open every day from 8 am–6 pm, Memorial Day through Labor Day; 8 am–4 pm the rest of the year. It is closed Thanksgiving Day, December 25, and January 1. There are no camping facilities, but picnic tables, drinking water, and modern restrooms are provided. Las Vegas has food, lodging, and auto, medical, and camping services. NPS/John Benson Post Commander’s Home Remember, too, that it is against the law in all NPS areas to pick up artifacts, plants, animals, and minerals. Look at them. Enjoy them. Leave them for others to enjoy. ✩GPO:20xx—xxx-xxx/xxxxx Reprint 20xx Printed on recycled paper. Fort Union Depot 6 Depot Officers’ Quarters These three duplex buildings housed the officers of the supply depot and their families. Built on the same generous plan as the post commander’s home, each had four spacious rooms on each side of a wide central hall. Col. Randolph B. Marcy, who inspected the fort in 1867, called them “far better than any officers’ quarters that I have seen at any other frontier post.” The quartermaster, as commanding officer of the depot and the man in charge of all construction, had the finest residence at Fort Union. This is evident in the workmanship of the foundation stones, the arched fireplaces, the brick cellar, patio, and sidewalk leading to the privy in the rear. 8 Storehouses As supply trains arrived from the east over the Santa Fe Trail, the tons of material needed to equip and provision troops on the frontier were unloaded, stored, repacked, and ultimately shipped from here to 7 Commissary Office From here the commissary officer carried out his responsibilities for feeding the troops, not only here but at other posts in the Southwest. At different times the building also served as the forage master’s office and as officers’ quarters. Built in late 1866 or early 1867, it remained in use until 1889, when it was closed. other southwestern forts. The large freight wagons that carried the supplies pulled in between the storehouses to unload and load. At night, large wooden gates at the ends of the buildings were locked. Bars on the windows and a posted guard usually kept the goods safe. These structures appear to have remained in use until 1891 when the fort was abandoned. 9 Transportation Corral This was the service area for the thousands of draft animals required each year to supply the frontier army. Half of the original corral was destroyed by fire in 1874. The army subsequently tore down the 10 Hospital Six wards, 36 beds with a maximum capacity of 60 or more, a surgeon and assistant surgeon with a staff of eight, made this one of the Fort Union Post 1 Post Officers’ Quarters The post garrison officers and their families lived in the nine houses in this row. All but the center building, which was larger and the home of the post commander, were of duplex construction and could 3 Company Quarters Fort Union was originally designed as a fourcompany post, with each company occupying one of these U-shaped barracks. In 1875, when the army expanded the companies to six, the buildings on the northeast and southwest ends of house two families when necessary. Quarters were assigned on the basis of rank, with senior officers getting first choice and junior officers occupying whatever was left. the corrals were altered to accommodate the additional two companies, as well as the regimental band. 2 Post Commander’s Home This eight-room house with cellar and walled back yard was one of the finest residences at Fort Union, second only to that of the quartermaster. According to one officer’s wife, the wide center hall made a perfect dancing floor when 4 Guardhouse From here sentries were posted throughout the fort with much formal ceremony. Their principal duty was to protect the fort against fire and theft. covered with stretched canvas and suitably decorated. Compare the size of these rooms with those of the smaller officers’ quarters on either side, which were sometimes shared by two officers and their families. 5 Military Prison Murderers, deserters, and other criminals, civilian as well as military, were confined here. All that remains today is the cell block itself, which was once surrounded by an adobe building with one en- trance on the north side. Two or more prisoners would often occupy each cell, sleeping on straw mats on the floor. Completed in June 1868, this was one of the last buildings constructed. other half and rebuilt the whole complex of adobe, as shown. This new corral fulfilled the diminishing needs of the fort throughout the remainder of its military life. best hospitals in the West. Soldiers and their families received free care; civilians had to pay about 50¢ a day for their board.