"Cemetery" by NPS / Nathan King , public domain
![]() | Fort LarnedBrochure |
Official Brochure of Fort Larned National Monument (NM) in Kansas. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
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Fort Larned
Fort Larned National Historic Site
Kansas
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Visited and inspected the new buildings finished
and in process at the Post. They are all of stone, and
are really fine structures.
Albert Barnitz, Capt. 7th US Cavalry, 1868
Supplies and Trade Items
The commissary stocked goods from
throughout the US.
At Fort Larned, which lies just steps from the Santa
The post evolved from a rough, temporary camp set
The fort also hosted Indian agents for the Cheyenne,
Fe Trail, cultures mixed every day. Soldiers met
up in 1859 to guard the construction of an adobe
Arapaho, Plains Apache, Kiowa, and Comanche
Plains Indians, European American and Hispanic
mail station. It was a bustling soldier town by 1867
tribes. In 1867, peace commissioners appointed by
teamsters, homesteaders, hide hunters, scouts, and
but became a near ghost town by 1878. The soldiers’
Congress met at Fort Larned to plan the Medicine
railroad workers. US Army regulars served with
primary purpose was to escort mail coaches and
Lodge treaties.
paroled Confederates. The fort housed African
military supply wagons on the trail. Their broader
Americans later known as Buffalo Soldiers, who
mission was to keep the peace on the plains—and
A huge American flag flew atop a 100-foot pole at the
formed Company A of the 10th Cavalry.
take action when required.
parade ground center. Many travelers saw the flag as
a beacon of strength and security, but for the Plains
Indians it symbolized lost freedom.
Touring the Fort Although Fort Larned is one of the
From 1865 to 1868 over 200 civilians labored to complete
ten sandstone buildings, boosting the local economy. Nine
of these buildings still stand. Construction and the
freighting of supplies among the western forts were
welcome sources for civilian contracts.
best-preserved western forts, its appearance today belies
that of the late 1860s (depicted below). The many wood
and adobe buildings outside the central parade ground
(hospital, laundry, stables, mail station, bowling alley,
teamsters’ quarters, and others labeled in italic) quickly
deteriorated and do not survive.
Santa Fe Trail Spanning 900
miles of the Great Plains, the trail
offered riches and adventure for
some—at the risk of hardship and
peril. Many westbound wagons
carried military supplies, metal
tools, cloth, and alcohol. Other
goods included hardware like fish
hooks, trade items like cut glass
beads, home goods like cookware,
S an
Trai
ta Fe
and staples like brown Havana sugar
and coffee. Some Plains Indians
viewed travelers on the trail as
trespassers. As clashes grew more
frequent, the US government ex
panded the string of forts along the
trail to protect American interests
and promote peace.
l / Stag
First Mail Station US Postmas
Pawnee Fo
e R oute
60 to 292 men, but throughout Fort
Larned’s lifetime its numbers rose
and fell. Factors included the US
Army’s need for troops to fight
back east in the Civil War, the inter
mittent nature of Indian hostilities,
and evolving US government policy
toward the tribes.
ter General Joseph Holt asked the
War Department to protect the
Pawnee Fork mail station from
Indian raids in 1859. The US Army
soon arrived and by 1860 began
constructing a permanent fort. In
1861 the garrison expanded from
Quartermaster
stables
rk
1859 mail station
Hospital
Quartermaster
wagon yard
Laundry
Barracks
Visitor Center
Shops
Cemetery
Barracks
New commissary
Blockhouse
Adjutant’s
office
Company officers
quarters
Old commissary
Commanding officer’s
quarters
Dugout
Cavalry stables
Quartermaster
storehouse
Company officers
quarters
Sa
nt
e
aF
il
Tra
Icehouse
Teamsters
quarters
Sutler’s
store
Billiard
room
Sutler’s
mess house
Indian
agency
Indian Agency By 1866 two
Indian agents had set up offices at
Fort Larned—Edward W. Wynkoop
for the Cheyenne and Arapaho tribes
and Jesse Leavenworth for the Kiowa,
Plains Apache, and Comanche. In
1868, two days after Lt. Col. George
Custer led an attack on a peaceful
Cheyenne camp on the Washita River,
Wynkoop resigned.
Tribes Tribes visited the Indian
agency (see illustration, right) to
collect annuities—including guns,
blankets, tools, clothing, coffee,
and flour— promised them in the
Little Arkansas and Medicine
Lodge treaties of 1865 and 1867
in exchange for their lands (see
other side). Congress intended
the annuities to placate the
tribes, help them adopt European
American ways, and help them
adapt to life on the reservations.
Second sutler’s store
and bowling alley
Buffalo Soldiers One of the first
African American cavalry units of the
post-Civil War US Army, Company A,
10th Cavalry, arrived at Fort Larned
in April 1867. In late December 1868
after a fight over a billiards game,
the cavalry stables burned. Arson
was suspected but no witnesses
came forward. On the night of the
fire, commanding officer Major John
Yard had ordered Company A to
guard a distant wood pile. Soon
after, Yard transferred the unit to
Fort Zarah rather than deal with the
racial tensions.
PHOTOS—NPS
ILLUSTRATION—NPS / JAMES R. MANN
Visiting Fort Larned
Fort Larned National Historic Site is
six miles west of Larned, Kansas, on
KS 156. The fort is open daily 8:30
am to 4:30 pm; closed Thanksgiving,
December 25, and January 1.
Call or check our website for pro
grams and special events through
out the year. You must schedule
guided group tours in advance.
Accessibility We strive to make
our facilities, services, and programs
accessible to all. For information go
to a visitor center, ask a ranger, call,
or check our website.
For Your Safety For a safe
Help Us Protect the Park
visit, use caution and common
sense. Please observe all hard hat
and other warning signs around
buildings undergoing restoration
or stabilization. Be alert for un
even ground and non-standard
steps. Please keep children a safe
distance from the Pawnee River.
The National Park Service works to
stabilize the fort’s buildings and
prevent deterioration. We need
your help to ensure that future
generations can see the fort as you
see it today. Do not disfigure the
fort by scratching, carving, or
marking names and initials on
walls or sandstone blocks. Federal
laws protect all natural and cultur
al features in the park.
For a complete list of regulations
including firearms, check the park
website.
Fort Larned National Historic Site
is one of over 400 parks in the
National Park System. To learn
more visit www.nps.gov.
More Information
Fort Larned National Historic Site
1767 KS Hwy 156
Larned, KS 67550
620-285-6911
www.nps.gov/fols
Emergencies call 911
IGPO:2020—411224/82468 New in 2017
Printed on recycled paper.
Reshaping Landscapes and Nations
FREEDOM
After the 1680s, when Plains Indians first mounted
food for sustenance. By the 1860s, a stream of new-
horses, tribes including the Cheyenne, Arapaho,
comers and changing US government policies limited
Plains Apache, Lakota, Kiowa, and Comanche
the tribes’ access to the bison herds and imposed
prairies. There I feel free and happy, but when we
moved across the region in pursuit of bison. The
strict boundaries. Commerce, aided by the US Army,
settle down we grow pale and die.
animal provided for their material culture—skins
had become an agent of change.
Kiowa chief, Satanta, 1867
I don’t want to settle. I love to roam all over the
for tipis, clothing, and trade, bone for tools—and
UM AND
KS MUSE
FAIRBAN
IUM
PLANETAR
LIBRARY OF CONGRESS
At the Medicine Lodge peace
negotiations Satanta explained
why his people should not be
”concentrated” on reservations.
By 1871, urged on by the military,
Congress abandoned diplomacy
and gave the tribes a stark choice,
annihilation or the reservations.
BOUNDARIES
The Santa Fe Trail followed the
same river that had served as
boundary for the two groups. The
river also formed Mexico’s northern border until 1848.
COLORADO SPRINGS FINE ARTS CENTER /
ROSS FRANK
ECONOMY
POWER
International Trade Routes
The Santa Fe Trail linked suppliers
in the American West with traders
in New York (above), New Orleans,
and European cities. Kiowa leader
Satanta grew wealthy as a supplier
of bison hides.
The idea of manifest destiny,
that God intended the nation
“to possess the whole of the
continent,” was a justification
for the US-Mexico War, 1846–48.
ABUNDANCE
As late as the 1860s many people
saw the bison as an endless resource. Plains Indian stories tell of
the herds’ origin in caves or below
lakes from which they ”swarmed,
like bees from a hive.”
TRADE
Hide hunters, encouraged by the US
Army, harvested the bison to the
point of near extinction. Bison bones
thickly littered the prairies. In 1884
the last rail shipment of hides left the
plains. Demand had exceeded supply.
WIKIPEDIA
CULTURE
Santa Fe Trail Some goods
shipped west along the Santa Fe
Trail continued south to Chihuahua
and Sonora along the Camino Real.
Eastbound goods included gold,
silver, donkeys, mules, furs, and
wool. The Spanish dollar (left) was
legal tender in the US until 1857.
Plains Indian Art after the 1860s
While imprisoned at Fort Marion,
Florida, from 1874 to 1878, Plains
Indians made these drawings on
paper. Before the 1860s they would
have painted on bison hide.
LEDGER ART, CLOCKWISE FROM UPPER LEFT:
BAD EYE, BULL RIDER
BITER, KIOWA TIPIS SURROUND WAGON
UNKNOWN ARTIST, ELK SOCIETY HORSE RAID
ARROW’S ELK SOCIETY LEDGER
MORNING STAR GALLERY / ROSS FRANK
WILLIAM HAYES, GATHERING OF THE BUFFALO HERDS,1866
AMERICAN MUSEUM OF WESTERN ART
ANSCHUTZ COLLECTION
The new nation expands west.
Santa Fe Trail traffic increases.
Congress invests in the frontier forts.
Peace Commission fails.
By 1821 an overland trade route links Missouri and
The US Army must protect the flow of military sup-
The military expands its presence along the Santa Fe
The US Army takes charge. Fort Larned provides
the Mexican city of Santa Fe. The route crosses
plies, the mail, commerce, and emigrants along the
Trail and other trade corridors.
support for the resulting campaign against the
“open country” where Plains Indians live and hunt.
trail, even as it fights the Civil War.
Indians and hosts key military officers.
1821 Mexico wins independence
1836 Republic of Texas proclaims
1859 Colorado Gold Rush. Over
1860 Fort Larned established
1864 Kiowas take over 200
from Spain. Missouri becomes a
state. Santa Fe Trail opens. Trade
flows via the 900-mile-long trail
between Missouri and Santa Fe and
south to Chihuahua and Sonora.
Traders call it the Mexican or Santa
Fe Road.
independence from Mexico.
1845 US annexes Republic of
Texas. Mexico severs diplomatic
relations, asserts ownership of
annexed land between the
Nueces and Rio Grande rivers.
100,000 gold seekers cross the
Central Plains, many on the Santa
Fe Trail. Many Indians resist the
invasion of their hunting grounds
and sacred places.
when camp is renamed and moved
to its present site. By September its
population grows to 270 men,
housed in rough wood and adobe
structures.
mules and horses from the fort’s
corrals. Cheyennes attack a store
and stage company at Walnut
Creek.
1824 US Secretary of War
1846 US declares war on Mexico.
establishes the Bureau of Indian
Affairs. The goal is to manage US
relations with Indian tribes.
1848 Treaty of Guadalupe-
1830 President Andrew Jackson
signs the Indian Removal Act. It
forces Indians from lands east of
the Mississippi River to western
areas including present-day Kansas
and Oklahoma. The act establishes
a legal precedent for removal and
launches decades of treaty making.
1834 Indian Trade and Intercourse
Camp on Pawnee Fork. Set up to
guard a US mail station, it soon
becomes known as Camp Alert
because of constant threats from
Kiowas and Comanches.
Hidalgo. Mexico cedes over half its
territory to the US. The cession
includes all or portions of Texas,
Utah, Arizona, Nevada, California,
New Mexico, Colorado, Wyoming,
Oklahoma, and Kansas.
1861 Kansas becomes 34th state.
Civil War begins.
1862 Congress passes Homestead
and Pacific Railway Acts.
1854 Kansas Territory established,
US Army awards Hispanic merchant
Epifanio Aguirre a contract to
freight five million pounds of supplies to the frontier forts.
Thirty miles north of Fort Larned,
US troops kill Cheyenne peace
chief Lean Bear as he proclaims
friendship and holds a peace medal that President Lincoln presented
to him. Indian attacks and US Army
retaliation increase.
Detachments of the 1st and 3rd
Regiments, Colorado Volunteer
Cavalry, massacre 230 Cheyennes
and Arapahos who believe themselves under US protection at Sand
Creek, Colorado Territory.
opens Indian Country to European
American settlers and increases
need for military presence in the
region.
Act. The act loosely defines Indian
Country, which includes the future
state of Kansas.
1865 Civil War ends. Gen. Robert
Company C, 3rd US Infantry, in front
of Fort Larned barracks, 1867.
KANSAS STATE HISTORICAL SOCIETY
E. Lee surrenders to Gen. Ulysses S.
Grant at Appomattox.
1865 Little Arkansas Treaties with
Southern Cheyennes, Southern
Arapahos, Plains Apaches, Kiowas,
and Comanches assign the tribes to
reservations in present-day Oklahoma. The Indians keep the right
to hunt north of the Arkansas River
so long as bison are there.
1866–68 Civilian contractors
construct Fort Larned’s permanent
stone barracks, officers quarters,
blockhouse, storehouse, shops, and
commissaries.
1867 Kiowa chief Satanta issues
warning to Indian Agent Edward
Wynkoop’s interpreter: “The white
man must build no more houses,
must burn no more of their wood,
must drink no more of their water,
must not drive their buffaloes off,
and the Santa Fe Line must be
stopped.”
1867 Gen. Winfield Hancock
1868 Peace Commission is
arrives at Fort Larned with 1,400
men. He summons several chiefs
from a nearby village to a council
at the fort. Fearing an attack, the
Indians abandon their village.
Hancock sends Lt. Col. George
Custer in pursuit and burns the
village, setting off Hancock’s War.
In response, Cheyennes and Lakota
attack stage stations, wagon trains,
telegraph lines, and railroad camps.
dissolved. Department of War
enacts policy of “peace within, war
without [the reservations].”
Congress appoints four civilian
and three military commissioners,
including Gen. William Tecumseh
Sherman, to a Peace Commission.
The aim is to ”concentrate” the
Plains Indians onto reservations.
Medicine Lodge Treaties. Hundreds
of Kiowas, Arapahos, Cheyennes,
Plains Apaches, and Comanches
meet with the Peace Commission
at Medicine Lodge Creek, Kansas.
The resulting treaties fail to
achieve peace.
Gen. Philip Sheridan meets with
Indian leaders at Fort Larned. Soon
after, he launches a new strategy
intended ”to make [the Plains]
tribes poor by the destruction of
their stock, and then settle them
on lands allotted to them.” As part
of this campaign, Custer leads an
attack on a peaceful Cheyenne village on the Washita River. Peace
chief Black Kettle and his wife,
Medicine Woman Later, are among
those killed.
1871 All treaty making ends.
1872 Atchison, Topeka & Santa
Fe Railroad reaches Fort Larned
and the western border of Kansas.
1878 Fort Larned is decommissioned.
NORTH WIND PICTURE ARCHIVES
Plains Indian Tribes divided into
two groups north and south of the
Arkansas River. They fought for
control of the grasses—to feed
their horses—and bison herds until
1840, when they reached a peace.