Fort Davis

Fort Davis National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Fort Davis National Historic Site Texas Officers’ Row at Fort Davis. The post hospital is in the left background. NPS / Tom Gray The fort was established on the eastern side of the Davis Mountains, in a box canyon near Limpia Creek, where wood, water, and grass were plentiful. It consisted of prim­itive structures and was located behind the present-day Officers’ Row. (The foun­dations of several buildings from this earlier fort can still be seen today.) Named after Sec­retary of War Jefferson Davis, the fort was first garri­soned by Lt. Col. Wash­­ing­ton Seawell and six companies of the Eighth US Infantry. From 1854 to 1861, troops of the Eighth Infantry spent much of their time in the field pursuing Comanches, Kiowas, and Apaches who attacked trav­elers and mail stations. With the onset of the Civil War and Texas’s secession from the Union, the federal government evacuated Fort Davis. The fort was occupied by Con­federate troops from spring 1861 until the summer of 1862 when Union forces again took possession. They quickly abandoned the post, and Fort Davis lay deserted for the next five years. Few of the fort’s structures remained when Lt. Col. Wesley Merritt and four companies of the newly organized Ninth US Cavalry reoccupied Fort Davis in June 1867. The building of a new post, just east of the original site, began im­medi­ ately. By the end of 1869, a number of officers’ quarters, two enlisted men’s barracks, a guardhouse, temporary hospital, and storehouses had been erected. Construction continued through the 1880s. By then Fort Davis had be­come a major in­stallation with over 100 structures and quarters for over 400 soldiers. Fort Davis’s primary role of safeguarding the west Texas frontier against the Comanches and Apaches continued until 1881. Although the Co­manches were defeated in the mid-1870s, the Apaches continued to make travel on the San Antonio-El Paso Road dangerous. Soldiers from the post regularly patrolled the road and furnished escorts for wagon trains and coaches. The last major military campaign involving troops from Fort Davis occurred in 1880. In a series of engagements, units from Fort Davis and other posts, under the command of Col. Ben­jamin Grier­son, forced the Apaches and their leader Vic­torio into Mexico. There Victorio and most of his followers were killed by Mexican soldiers. With the end of the Indian Wars in west Texas, garrison life at Fort Davis became more routine. Soldiers occasionally es­corted railroad survey parties, repaired roads and telegraph lines, and pursued bandits. In June 1891, as a result of the army’s efforts to consolidate its frontier garrisons, Fort Davis was or­dered aban­doned, having “outlived its usefulness.” The Indian Challenge Officers and Enlisted Men Buffalo Soldiers By the 1820s, raiding the villages of northern Mexico had be­come a way of life for the Kio­ was, Co­man­ches, and Apaches. It provided a source of food and an­imals and a means of attaining rank and status in the tribe. With the Treaty of Guada­lupe Hidal­go, which ended the Mex­ican War, the Unit­ed States pledged to halt these raids. As a re­sult, the US Army en­gaged in open hos­tilities against these highly mo­bile, lightly equipped, and cour­ageous warriors. The In­dian re­sis­tance grad­ually de­clined due to growing settlement and de­velopment of the region. The Coman­che warrior’s portrait (right) was painted by Fred­eric Rem­ing­ton. Both officers and en­listed men at Fort Davis spent far more time constructing roads, buildings, and telegraph lines than they did in pursuing Apache and Co­man­che raiders. For the enlisted men, low pay and harsh discipline prevailed, while officers and their families often suffered from monotony. In July 1866, Con­gress passed an act to increase the size of the Regular Army. The act stipulated that of the new regiments created, two cavalry and four infantry units “shall be composed of colored men.” Yet, Fort Davis was regarded by a majority of the men stationed here as one of the most pleas­ant posts in the West. A temperate climate and im­pres­sive landscape made living at this somewhat re­mote fort relatively enjoy­ a­ble. Hunting, fishing, picnics, and baseball games were some of the more popular pastimes enjoyed by all. LITTLE BIGHORN BATTLEFIELD NM Frederic Remington Museum Ogdensburg, NY Victorio (Bidúúya) This proud and ag­gressive leader of the Warm Springs Apaches (left) resisted efforts to confine his people to the San Carlos Reser­va­tion in Arizona. His re­fusal to accept reservation life led to con­flicts with U.S. and Mexican soldiers in 1879–80 and to his final de­feat and death on October 15, 1880, in the Battle of Tres Castil­los (Three Peaks) in Mexico. National Archives Officers and enlisted men generally wore a less formal uniform both in garrison and on campaign (above) than the full-dress uniform (left). Formal uniforms of­ten were re­quired for guard mount, formal social oc­casions, and ev­en­ing re­treat parades. Although they were sep­arated pro­­fession­ally, so­­cially, and of­ten by race, the officers and enlisted men nevertheless maintained a respectable esprit de corps frequently not found at other posts on the western frontier. They left a proud rec­ord of ac­­com­plish­ments. the north and the Apach­es from the mountains of south­ eastern New Mexico. Their raiding lifestyle led to conflicts with travelers and settlers. Fort Dav­is soldiers spent much of their time scouting and pa­trolling and on es­cort duty but they rare­ly engaged in open hos­­til­ities with Indian groups. The In­dian Wars in west Tex­­­­as ended shortly after the de­feat of Victor­io in 1880. NPS/Richard Schlecht Garrison and Field Duty at Fort Davis Troopers of the Ninth US Cavalry on Dress Parade at Fort Davis in 1875. Buffalo Soldiers served at Fort Davis from 1867 to 1885. Rou­tine garrison duties included drill­ ing, tending animals, constructing and repairing buildings, and planting gardens. They rode or walked thousands of miles pursuing the elusive NPS / RICHARD SCHLECHT Fort Davis and the Indian Wars Few Indians lived in the Trans-Pecos re­gion of western Tex­as (map), but many tribes regularly passed through it. Kiowas and Coman­ches came from the Plains to In 1869 the four black infantry units were consolidated in two regiments. Troops of the Twenty-fourth and Twenty-fifth Infantry regiments along with the Ninth and Tenth Cavalry regiments served on the southwestern frontier. Some historians think Indians named these troops “Buf­falo Sol­diers,” comparing their hair to buffalo hair and finding them worthy ad­versaries. Officers posed be­hind the post hospital for this 1887 photograph. The whitebearded officer seated at right center is Lt. Col. David R. Clen­­­den­in of the Third Cav­al­ry. The Third served at Fort Davis from 1885 to 1887 and again in 1890­ and 1891. Enlisted men of the Sixteenth US Infantry posed for this photo­graph about 1886–87. Taken on a hillside near Fort Davis, it de­picts life as it was in the field. Units of the Six­teenth were stationed here for most of the 1880s. They served alongside the First In­fantry and the Third, Eighth, and Tenth cav­alry. Co­man­­ches and Apach­es. Un­­der officers like Wes­ley Mer­ritt, Ed­­ward Hatch, Wil­liam Shaft­er, Zenas Bliss, George An­drews, and Ben­ja­min Grier­son, they contributed notably to the settlement of western Texas and southeastern New Mexico. Second Lt. Henry O. Flipper Henry O. Flipper of the Tenth US Caval­ry was the first black graduate of West Point. He served at Fort Davis in 1880–81. Tried in in a controversial court-martial, he was dismissed from the army in 1882. By 1885, when soldiers of the Tenth Cav­­alry serving at Fort Dav­is were sent to Ari­zona to campaign against Ger­­onimo, most Indians in the South­west were living on reservations. In 1976, after re­viewing his case, the army post­humously gave him an honorable discharge. Lt. Flipper received a full presidential pardon in 1999. US Military Academy Fort Davis NHS Fort Davis NHS Fort Davis NHS A key post in the defense system of west Texas, Fort Davis played a major role in the history of the Southwest. From 1854 until 1891, troops stationed at the post protected emigrants, freighters, mail coaches, and travelers on the San An­tonio-El Paso Road. Today Fort Davis is one of the best re­maining examples of a frontier military post. It is a vivid re­minder of the significant role played by the military in the settlement and development of the western frontier. Exploring Fort Davis Magazine Hospital Storehouse Two-story Officers’ Quarters Two-story Officers’ Quarters Post Hospital (furnished) Two-story Officers’ Quarters Officer’s Kitchen and Servant’s Quarters (furnished) Hospital Steward’s Quarters Post Chapel Post Commander’s Stable O ’ R S C E I F F R O Ordnance Sergeant’s Quarters and Signal Office Two-story Officers’ Quarters W Post Headquarters Regimental Band Barracks Enlisted Men’s Barracks Bakery Commanding Officer’s Quarters (furnished) Guardhouse Commissary (furnished) Enlisted Men’s Barracks Enlisted Men’s Barracks Shared Lieutenants’ Quarters (furnished) Granary Privy Enlisted Men’s Barracks Sleeping Lion Mountain New Quartermaster Storehouse Privy Enlisted Men’s Barracks (furnished) n Enlisted Men’s Barracks (Visitor Center) –E nio Privy Sa to An so a lP ad Ro Quartermaster Corral Privy Site of Post Trader’s Complex Telegraph Office Enlisted Men’s Barracks Cavalry Stables Old Subsistence Storehouse BUILDING KEY Restored structure Ruin or foundation Old Quartermaster Storehouse The illustration shows Fort Davis at the peak of its development in the 1880s. Old Commissary Office NPS / Don Foley About Your Visit Fort Davis National Historic Site, on the northern edge of the town of Fort Davis, can be reached from north or south via Texas highways 17 and 118 and from the west via Tex­­as high­ ways 505, 166, and 17. The park is open daily 8 am to 5 pm central time. Check our web­­ site or call for hol­iday closures. A small entry fee is charged, but persons 15 years and under, educational groups, and those presenting approved passes are admitted free. Accessibility We strive to make our facilities and services accessible to all. For information go to the visitor center, ask a ranger, call, or check our website. The elevation of Fort Davis is 4,900 feet. Summer is hot with oc­casional showers, while fall is mild. Win­­ter is cool and windy, and strong winds pre­­vail in the spring. The 523-acre site has several hiking trails. Accommodations There are no over­ night accommoda­ tions in the park. Camping is availa­ble locally and at the ad­ jacent Davis Moun­ tains State Park. Gas, food, and lodging are available in the town of Fort Davis. Preservation Help us preserve Fort Davis for future generations by ob­serving the fol­ lowing: • Pets are not permit­ ted in public buildings and must be leashed. Touring Fort Davis • Please stay on the es­tab­lished paths, and do not walk on the pa­rade ground. • Do not walk, stand, or sit on the founda­ tions. Your adher­ ence to these rules will help protect the his­torical and natural resources of the site. • It is illegal to collect anything or to disturb artifacts, animals, plants, or rocks; all are protected by fed­ eral law. More Information Fort Davis National Historic Site P.O. Box 1379 101 Lt. Henry Flipper Drive Fort Davis, TX 79734 432-426-3224 ext. 220 www.nps.gov/foda To learn more about parks and Na­tional Park Service pro­grams visit www.nps.gov. NPS / Fort Davis NHS When this photo was taken in 1886, looking south to­ward Sleeping Lion Moun­tain, Fort Davis was at its peak of de­vel­ opment. The en­listed men’s barracks (on the left) and off­i­cers’ row flank the pa­rade ground. After the post was abandoned, civilians lived in some of the quarters for several years. Civilian up­keep, mod­erate weath­er, and a private owner’s work to maintain some build­ings spared this fort the rapid deterioration that be­­fell most other abandoned frontier posts. Some structures have disappeared, while others suffered the ravages of time and the elements. After the fort became a national historic site in 1963, the National Park Service, through a continuing program of res­tora­tion and preservation, managed to save many original struc­tures. Begin your tour at the visitor center; allow one to two hours to see the fort. During times of peak visitation, rang­ers and volunteers dressed in periodtype clothing pres­ ent programs and interpret some of the restored and re­ furnished quarters. programs, and activi­ ties. A museum is adjacent and an audi­ torium offers an ori­ entation video. A Word of Caution The foundations and ruins are fragile. Walking or climbing on them is destruc­ tive, hazard­ous, and illegal. The north end has a squad room and an or­derly room. It offers a glimpse of summer 1884, when it was occupied by Buffalo Sol­diers of Troop H, Tenth Cavalry. Iron bunks, footlockers, carbine racks, cloth­ ing, and accoutre­ ments in the squad room help to tell the story of the men who served here. The or­ derly room was the office for the troop’s first sergeant. Visitor Center Located in what was originally an enlisted men’s barracks, the visitor center has a bookstore and exhib­ its. Entry permits must be obtained here, along with informa­ tion on the buildings, Enlisted Men’s Barracks The south end of this re­stored barracks has cavalry, infan­try, artillery, and trans­ portation exhibits. Commissary This large building on the San Anton­io– El Paso Road held the garrison food sup­ plies. Enlisted men had rations, but officers and civ­ilian workers could buy food products at cost plus the transpor­ tation. The commis­ sary sergeant’s office and the issue room are refurnish­ed. The office occupied by the Acting Commis­ sary of Subsistence (officer in charge of the commissary office) has interpre­ tive exhibits. Officer’s Kitchen and Serv­ant’s Quarters This two-room refur­ nished building was the kitchen and ser­ vants’ quarters for that Officer’s Quar­ ters. It was separate from the main house mostly be­cause of fire danger. Extreme summer heat and un­pleasant cooking odors were factors as well. Post Hospital With a second ward added in 1884, the post hospital could accommodate up to 24 patients. It was normally staffed by a post surgeon, hospi­ tal steward, soldiernurses, a cook or cooks, and a matron. The post surgeon rarely per­form­ed sur­ gery. Soldiers suffered mainly from diseases and accidental inju­ ries, not battle wounds. The building has a central walkway with interpretive signs and interactive exhibits. The Commanding Officer’s Quarters Constructed by 1869, this building served as the residence for post commanders until 1891. Be­cause of the extensive docu­ mentation available on Col. Benjamin H. Grierson, Tenth Cav­ alry, and his family, the quarters is fur­ nished to the period 1882–85, when the colonel was post commander. Shared Lieuten­ants’ Quarters This structure was built for a captain in May 1882, but, be­ cause of a housing shortage, it was soon designated a shared quarters. It is refur­ nished as if a bach­ elor lieutenant lived in the north side and a married lieutenant in the south side. First Fort Davis The foundations of several structures of the first Fort Davis (1854–62) are located behind Officers’ Row and west of the Post Hospital. Many of these buildings were constructed of pine slabs with thatched roofs. Wooden signs identify them. IGPO:20xx—xxx-xxx/xxxxx Reprint 20xx Printed on recycled paper.