"Reflection Pond" by U.S. National Park Service , public domain
DenaliGuide Summer 2016 |
Summer Visitor Guide to Denali National Park & Preserve (NP&PRES) in Alaska. Published by the National Park Service (NPS).
featured in
National Parks Pocket Maps | ||
Alaska Pocket Maps |
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska
Official newspaper
S u m m e r 2 016
Alpenglow
Setting up a safe camp in Denali means making a "golden triangle." Tents must be pitched at least a hundred yards from cooking areas, and another
hundred yards from Bear Resistant Food Containers (BRFCs), provided free with your backcountry permit. Learn more on Page 10.
Two celebrations mark two park centennials
T
his year, the National Park Service celebrates
the 100th anniversary of its establishment by
Congress in 1916. Next year in 2017, Denali National
Park and Preserve achieves its own centennial.
In 1917, Mount McKinley National Park, as it was
known at that time, was the first national park
founded following the creation of the new agency.
Human Hundred
Grab your gear. Mark your map. Start your app,
if that's your thing. The park is challenging its visitors
and staff to log 100 miles of human-powered travel during
2016 and 2017 to commemorate its centennial birthdays.
Walk, bike, run, ski or snowshoe. Watch for rangerled events to help you reach your Human Hundred.
●
First-Timer Friendly
Denali is working to make it easier for Alaskans with
limited hiking or camping experience to visit and explore.
The park is partnering with other public land agencies
and outdoor gear companies to provide families with
the encouragement and resources they need to make
their first experiences here easier and more enjoyable.
NPS PHOTO / KENT MILLER
Welcome to YOUR park
You have arrived just in time to join us in
celebrating a very special occasion, the
centennial of the National Park Service.
One hundred years ago the National Park
Service was created to care for and protect
the nation’s natural and cultural treasures,
to preserve its stories, and to create a
common ground for all its citizenry to
enjoy now and far into the future.
In Denali, we are privileged to share the
stories of the human connection to a vast
and wild landscape. Subsistence hunting,
trapping and gathering occur today just as
DENA 21956, DENALI NPP MUSEUM COLLECTION
Entering the park in June 1939.
The park recognizes both milestones as opportunities
to engage new generations in its timeless mission to
protect and interpret tangible treasures, such as wildlife,
wildlands, and waterways, as well as intangibles, such
as its cultural accomplishments, lessons, and stories.
Looking Good in Green
As one of three pilot parks selected for a Subaru Zero
Landfill Initiative, Denali is working with partners and
surrounding communities to put the park on a path
toward 100 percent landfill diversion. Two hybrid buses
and 12 propane buses also are joining its shuttle and
transit fleet to reduce sound and carbon emissions.
Local Services and Amenities ................. 2
Page 5
Stay Connected
Follow Denali's growing array of social media feeds
listed on Page 16 for details about upcoming events and
initiatives. Join the conversation at Fi n d Yo u r Pa r k . co m
critical to understanding the effects of
climate change on our global community.
More than anything else, we hope you
celebrate the true ideal of national parks
here in Denali, a place that has been set
aside to connect people to America’s past,
NPS PHOTO / KENT MILLER
Entering the park today.
Please consult Page 3 for wildlife safety
advisories and regulations.
Great One
Denali, Tenada, Bulshaia Gora,
Densmore Peak, Mount McKinley ...
all of these and more are names attributed
Entrance Area Trail Maps ....................... 9
to the tallest mountain in North America.
Everyday Things To Do in Denali ......... 15
Free Courtesy Shuttles .....................…... 16
change. As permafrost thaws, glaciers
to care for this living laboratory that is so
Tour and Shuttle Buses …....................... 7
Artist-in-Residence Offerings ............... 14
Denali also serves as a barometer for
shrink, and tree lines rise, we feel humbled
Safety Advisories and Regulations ........ 3
Campgrounds …...................................... 6
they did hundreds of years ago.
Park Historian Erik K. Johnson describes
key characters and events in a naming
debate that spans more than 100 years.
Page 12
a place that protects present wildlife and
amazing landscapes for your enjoyment
and that of future generations, and a place
that celebrates the individual’s opportunity
Ranger Me
Why should kids get to have all the fun
with Discovery Packs and Junior Ranger
activities? (See Page 11.)
Visitors of all ages may tackle two pages
of activities to earn distinction as a
"Not-So Junior Ranger." Challenges
include a crossword, scavenger hunt,
"I Spy" and a short essay or drawing.
to experience inspiration, reflection, awe,
and wonder. It's a big idea, but we believe
Denali is big enough for all visitors to find
something special in their park.
Enjoy your visit.
Don Striker
Superintendent
Park Partners
National Park Service
U.S. Department of the Interior
Denali National Park and Preserve
P.O. Box 9
Denali Park, AK 99755
E-mail
DENA_Info@nps.gov
Website
www.nps.gov/dena
As a nonprofit education
partner, Alaska Geographic
connects people to Alaska’s
magnificent wildlands through
experiential education, awardwinning books and maps,
and by directly supporting the state’s parks, forests, and
refuges. Over the past 50 years, Alaska Geographic has
provided more than $20 million to fund educational
and interpretive programs throughout Alaska’s public
lands. It also supports education programs, scientific
research, and science-informed management decisions
through the Murie Science and Learning Center.
Phone
Alaska Geographic Association
907 683-1272
www.alaskageographic.org
907 683-2294
Bus and campsite reservations
800 622-7275 Nationwide
N P S P H OT O / K E N T M IL L E R
At the Murie Science and Learning Center (MSLC),
visitors can learn about park science in an exhibit area,
allow kids to explore an activity corner, enjoy comfortable
chairs around a warm fireplace on cold and wet days, and
get current park information at the front desk. In summer,
the MSLC offers public presentations, half-day classes,
multi-day field courses, teacher trainings, and youth camps.
Hours at the MSLC are 9 am to 4:30 pm daily.
For current courses and programs, call
907 272-7275 International
907 683-6432 or visit w w w.n p s .g o v / r lc / m u r ie
www.reservedenali.com
To walk there, simply follow white, painted dinosaur
tracks on pathways outside the Denali Visitor Center.
Emergency
Dial 911
Institute-Style Field Courses
Entrance Fees
Seven-Day Pass:
Individual (age 16 and older), $10
Denali NPP Annual Pass: $40
America the Beautiful Interagency Passes:
Annual, $80
Senior, $10
Access, Free
Annual Military Pass, Free
Eighty percent of fee dollars collected
in the park return to Denali to pay for
projects that have an impact on visitor
experience, such as campground
improvements, trail erosion mitigation,
and the Artist-in-Residence program.
The Denali Education Center is a local non-profit
organization that partners with the NPS to offer summer
programs for local youth, including Denali Discovery Camp
and Denali Backcountry Adventures. Other education
programs include Denali Community Series and W.I.L.D.
About Denali, both of which emphasize the unique
natural history and wildlife of the Denali bio-region.
Denali Education Center
907 683-2597
w w w.d enali.o rg
Immerse yourself in a hands-on multi-day
learning vacation. As part of a national effort to increase
scientific literacy by showcasing research from living
laboratories, the MSLC hosts courses on topics ranging
from archeological surveys to glacier and climate studies.
Offerings are posted at ht t p: //akg e o.o rg / fi eldc our s e s /
Kids’ Camps
Kids get to explore Denali during youth camps
and expeditions each summer. These are fabulous
opportunities for kids and young adults to explore
park science through interactive activities, learn
camping and backcountry travel skills, and have fun
with their peers in a wild but safe environment.
More at www.nps.gov/dena/lear n/
education/classrooms/kids-camps.htm
Services
Accessibility
Most rest rooms are wheelchair
accessible. Some trails, and
tour and shuttle buses are
wheelchair accessible.
Please advise staff of needs
when making a reservation.
Park films are open-captioned.
Find more information at
h t t p : / /g o.nps.gov/
D e n a l i Access
Alaska Railroad
You can travel to Denali by rail
from Fairbanks, Anchorage, or
Talkeetna. Call 800 544-0552,
or 907 683-2233 in Denali, or
907 265-2683 in Anchorage.
Banks
The closest bank is in Healy.
ATM service is provided at the
Wilderness Access Center, and
several businesses one mile (1.6
km) north of the park.
Connectivity
Cell phones work in the park
entrance area. There are
no public phones west of
Park Headquarters. Report
emergencies to rangers, bus
drivers, or campground hosts.
Dog Boarding
Available seven miles south
of the park entrance. By day,
or overnight. 907 683-2580,
canineresort@tonglenlake.com
Gas and Propane
Available at gas stations
one mile north of the park
entrance, 11 miles north in
Located on Sulfide Drive in
Healy, the Denali Preschool and
Post Office
and Showers
Located near the park entrance
At the Riley Creek Mercantile,
and Riley Creek Campground.
located near the entrance of
the park, adjacent to the Riley
Recycling Areas
Creek Campground.
Located at the Riley Creek
Mercantile for aluminum,
Lost and Found
plastic, and batteries. Visitor
Call 907 683-9275 or visit the
centers, campgrounds, and
baggage check located across
rest stops have aluminum can
from the train depot, open
receptacles.
daily 8:30 am to 4:30 pm.
Religious Services
Medical
Please check at the Denali
The closest physicians and
Visitor Center for times and
hospitals are in Fairbanks.
locations of religious services.
Canyon Clinic, urgent care
Healy, and 29 miles south in
facility, about a mile north of
Cantwell.
the park entrance at
Mile 238.8. Open 9 am to
Glacier Landings
6 pm daily, available on call
Visitors can opt to land on park
24 hours, 907 683-4433.
glaciers aboard a ski-equipped
airplane with:
Fly Denali, Healy, AK
Child Care
Grocery, Laundry,
866 770-2359
www.flydenali.com
K2 Aviation,
Interior Community Health
Center, located in the
Tri-Valley Community Center,
13 miles north of the park
on Healy Spur Road. Clinic
hours are 8 am to 5:30 pm
Learning Center is the only
Talkeetna, AK
weekdays. A physician’s
licensed day care in the Denali
800 764-2291
assistant is on call at
Borough. Drop-in childcare is
www.flyk2.com
907 683-2211.
offered year-round, 7 am to
Sheldon Air Service,
Talkeetna, Sunshine
6 pm, Monday through Friday,
Talkeetna, AK
Community Health
for ages 1 month to 12 years.
800 478-2321
Center, Mile 4 of the
Documentation of current
immunizations is required,
or sign an exemption.
Contact 907 683-7789.
www.sheldonairservice.com
Talkeetna Air Taxi,
Talkeetna Spur Road. Open
9 am to 5 pm, Monday
Talkeetna, AK
through Saturday, with
800 533-2219
24-hour on-call services,
www.talkeetnaair.com
907 733-2273.
2 Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska
Road Lottery
N P S P H OT O / K E N T M IL L E R
Bookstores Alaska Geographic operates
three bookstores in the park, 9 am to 7 pm,
including the main Denali Visitor Center
campus, the Toklat Rest Area, and the
Walter Harper Talkeetna Ranger Station.
A portion of every sale helps fund park
educational and interpretive programs.
More at www.alaskageographic.org/store
This year’s Road Lottery is
Fri Sep 16 to Tue Sep 20 (with
Military Appreciation Day set
for Sat Sep 17). For each day
of the lottery, 400 names are
drawn and those winners may
drive the length of the Park
Road in their personal vehicles.
Food
}
Names of those selected for
Don't Go Hungry or Thirsty
There is no food and limited water available
beyond the park entrance area. Please
be sure to pack well for your travels.
permits are posted by June
Morino Grill
15. Learn more at h t t p : / /
The only restaurant in the park, adjacent to the
g o . n p s. g o v / D e n a l i L o t t e r y
Denali Visitor Center, also features a coffee bar and box
lunches to go. Open 8 am to 6 pm daily with reduced hours
Sewage Dump Station
Located adjacent to the Riley
Creek Mercantile. Fees may
apply. Inquire at the Riley Creek
likely in May and September.
Wilderness Access Center
A coffee cart and snacks are available 5 am to 7 pm daily.
Mercantile. Facility may be
Riley Creek Mercantile
closed early or late in season
Bottled drinks, sandwiches, and a variety of packaged snacks
due to frozen ground or
and convenience groceries are available in the Riley Creek
chance of freezing.
Campground. Open 7 am to 11 pm daily with reduced hours
likely in May and September.
You Can Help Keep
Wildlife Healthy and Wild
The bears of Denali are wild creatures
behaving naturally. These solitary
animals can be very dangerous. Denali
is home to both black bears and grizzly
bears. Black bears inhabit the forested
areas of the park, while grizzly bears
mainly live on the open tundra. Almost
all bears along the Park Road are
grizzlies. For your own protection, and
to keep bears healthy and wild, please
carefully read and abide by these rules.
Each of us has an obligation to
respect bears and their habitat.
These rules are strictly enforced
in Denali. Failure to observe them
may result in citations or fines.
BE ALERT
Bears are active both day and
night and can be anywhere.
Watch for tracks and scat.
Park Regulations and Safety Advisories
M
Do not feed any wild animals, including birds. It is unhealthy for them, and
encourages aggressive behavior that may require management action. All pet
food, trash, coolers, and cooking tools must be kept secure unless in immediate
NEVER APPROACH
Bears should live as free from
human interference as possible.
Give them space. Maintain a
minimum distance of 300 yards
(275 meters). Allowing a bear
to approach for photographs is
prohibited. If a bear changes its
behavior due to your presence, you
are too close.
use. We all have a shared responsibility to keep wildlife healthy and wild.
î
Do not approach wildlife. You must stay at least 25 yards (23 m) away from moose,
sheep, wolves, and other animals. A distance of at least 300 yards (275 m) is required
from bears. Regardless of distance, if any wild animal changes its behavior due to your
presence, you are too close.
M
Moose are faster and much less docile than they appear. A cow moose with calves
can be especially unpredictable and dangerous. If a moose charges you, run away.
Dodge quickly behind large trees, cars, or structures. If you are chased while caught out in
IF A GRIZZLY MAKES CONTAC T
WITH YOU, PL AY DEAD
Curl up into a ball with your knees
tucked into your stomach and your
hands laced around the back of
your neck. Leave your pack on to
protect your back. If the attack is
prolonged, fight back vigorously.
If a black bear makes contact with
you, fight back immediately.
the open, zigzag or change direction often.
M
As you explore park trails and wilderness areas, be bear aware. You are safer hiking in
groups. In areas of low visibility, make noise to avoid surprise encounters.
Do not run from a bear. If you are going to spend significant time in the outdoors in
Alaska, carry bear spray, and know how to use and dispose of it safely.
M
Pets may be walked along the Park Road, in parking lots, on campground roads, along
the Bike Path from the park entrance to the visitor center campus, and the Roadside
Trail between the visitor center campus and Park Headquarters. Pets must be leashed with a
lead that is six feet or shorter. Do not leave a tethered pet unattended. Owners must collect
and dispose of pet feces.
DON’T SURPRISE
Bears may perceive you as a threat if
you startle them. Never get between a
sow and her cub. Bears are protective
of their cubs.
_
DO NOT RUN
Running may elicit a chase response.
Bears can run faster than 30 mph
(50 km/hr). You cannot outrun them.
If the bear is unaware of you, detour
quickly and quietly away. Give the
bear plenty of room, allowing it to
continue its activities undisturbed.
in areas where there are no established trails, spread out to reduce your impact on
the landscape.
e
MAKE NOISE
Warn bears of your presence by
making noise—sing, shout, talk.
Be especially careful in dense
brush where visibility is low, when
walking into the wind, and along
rivers where bears may not hear
you over the noise of the water.
In developed areas, stay on established trails and paths. If you are hiking with a group
Explore your park. Protect your park. It is illegal to disturb and collect natural
specimens, cultural and historic objects, or archeological artifacts. Leave items where
you find them. Federal regulations require that such discoveries remain in context. To help
researchers and contribute to science, snap photos and carefully note the location, preferably
Black bear.
PHOTO COUR TESY DOUG BROWN
BEAR SPR AY
When used properly, bear spray can
be an effective deterrent for aggressive
behavior by bears. If you decide to
carry it, be aware that wind, spray
distance, rain, and product shelf life all
influence its effectiveness. Learn how
to use it safely. Ask a park ranger if you
have questions. When traveling on a
bus, tell the driver you have bear spray
so it can be secured appropriately.
with GPS reference coordinates.
*
%
Cyclists may ride on park roads, parking areas, campground loops, and the
designated Bike Trail between the Nenana River and the Denali Visitor Center.
Share the road. Pass no closer than three feet (1.0 m) to bicycles and pedestrians,
especially if your vehicle has large side mirrors. On gravel roads, travel at “no dust”
speeds that do not kick up a plume that will wash over cyclists and pedestrians. If you see
wildlife while driving, do not stop or impede the safe and free flow of traffic along any
portion of the road. Instead, park in an established pullout, and watch from a safe distance.
M
It is the responsibility of visitors to understand all applicable firearms laws before
entering the park. Federal law prohibits firearms in certain facilities in the park.
Those places are marked with signs at all public entrances. The park concessioner does not
BACK AWAY SLOWLY IF THE BEAR
IS AWARE OF YOU
Speak in a calm, low-pitched voice
while waving your arms slowly above
your head. Bears that stand up on
their hind legs are not threatening
you, but merely trying to identify you.
Should a bear approach or charge you,
do not run. Do not drop your pack.
Bears sometimes charge to within a
few feet of a person before stopping
or veering off. Dropping a pack may
pique a bear’s curiosity, causing it to
investigate. Stand still until the bear
moves away, then slowly back off.
Free filtered water
7
Water sources are limited
beyond the park entrance area.
You can save money and reduce use
of disposable plastic drink containers
by refilling your bottle with free, fresh
water from filtered dispensers at six
park locations (from east to west):
Riley Creek Mercantile, Wilderness
Please report all bear incidents and
encounters to a ranger. Park rangers
and biologists need this information
to document bear behavior for
research and management purposes.
allow firearms on tour buses. Passengers may carry a firearm on shuttle buses but it must be
unloaded and stored in a locked container. Except as part of authorized hunting activities,
discharging weapons is strictly prohibited throughout the park. Learn more online at
h t t p : / / g o . n p s. g o v /D e n a liF ire a r m s
25 yards 23 m
300 yards 275 m
Bear
Moose, caribou, Dall sheep, wolf,
occupied raptor nest, or occupied den site
Be wary of
substitutes.
Insect repellents,
mace, and pepper
spray designed for
protection from
other people
do not have the
same ingredients
or effectiveness
as bear spray.
Watch Wildlife Safely
Any distance that alters the behavior of a wild animal is too close. Maintain minimum distances
at all times. Resist the temptation to approach or intercept an animal’s path.
Use binoculars or a telephoto lens to observe an animal’s natural behavior. Do not engage in
photography if an animal moves closer than the minimum distance allowed. Remind others of
their ethical responsibility when photographing animals. Please do not follow an animal at close
distance with a vehicle. Motorists must stop and allow an animal to cross the road safely.
Avoid stressing wildlife. Animals living here are engaged in a daily struggle to find food, shelter,
and water necessary for survival. Avoid wildlife during sensitive times, such as when they are
nesting, mating, or raising young.
+
Quiet please. If you see wildlife from a tour or shuttle bus, limit noise and
distractions. Keep your head, hands, and elbows entirely inside the vehicle.
Access Center, Murie Science and
Learning Center, Morino Grill,
Denali Visitor Center, and Eielson
Visitor Center.
To report a violation or crime, call the tip line at
For emergencies, dial
800 478-2724
911
Alpenglow, Summer 2016 3
McKinley Station, circa 1939.
Photo Courtesy of Alaska State Library, Skinner Foundation Photograph Collection, P44-05-040A
Photo Courtesy of Alaska State Library, Skinner Foundation Photograph Collection, P44-05-074
Park ranger roles
still adapting
to changing times
Park organizes
two years of celebrations
for two centennials
by David Olson
Visitor and Resource Protection Ranger
by Lynn McAloon
Park Planner, Centennial Organizer
Courtesy of National Archives, 79G-11F-54
Rangering has changed over the last century,
but some things still remain the same.
Visitor and Resource Protection Rangers are
federal police officers who protect national
parklands and visitors during their visit. Without
these rangers many of the things you have come
to enjoy about national parks would not exist.
As visitation has grown over the last century,
rangers have had to learn new skills to respond to
visitor needs and new threats to the resource. For
example, poaching was a major issue that rangers
worked hard to get under control in the early years
of the National Park System. Poaching still exists
today, but it’s not as frequent as it used to be.
First Superintendent Harry Karstens.
DENA 32219, Denali NPP Museum Collection
Entrepreneur Maurice Morino on the
porch of his second roadhouse.
Current rangers spend more time responding to
search and rescue, medical emergencies and law
enforcement situations. Many people are surprised
to learn that there is crime in our national parks,
but unfortunately, people do not leave their
problems at home when they go on vacation.
In the early days of Mount McKinley National
Park, rangers patrolled by dogsled, skis and on foot.
Today the same methods are used, but rangers have
added patrol vehicles, snowmobiles, all-terrain
vehicles, boats and airplanes to patrol operations.
These methods of travel allow rangers to
be more proactive in patrols and respond
to incidents efficiently.
While on patrol, rangers come across a variety of
violations. The ranger staff at Denali would like to
remind visitors of a few things to help make your
trip smoother.
Photo Courtesy of Alaska State Library,
Skinner Foundation Photograph Collection, P44-05-117
Ninety-nine years ago, park founders had amazing foresight to see
the need to create a refuge to protect Dall sheep and other wildlife
populations at a time when it was a nearly trackless wilderness.
Alaska wouldn’t become a state for another 40 years.
DENA 21956, Denali NPP Museum Collection
McKinley Park Hotel.
and in the Alpenglow.
• Be prepared if you go hiking and backpacking.
• If you are feeling sick, request assistance. Do not keep riding
the bus farther into the park.
Now, Denali is a place for visitors to enjoy as well as a place of
renowned research and experiential learning. Most importantly,
though, Denali remains a place of wilderness, a place to hear
the call of the chickadee, thrill at an eagle soaring, or behold the
radiance of alpenglow on the shoulders of majestic peaks.
Our centennial marks a renewal of the vow that was made to
protect this place. It also prompts a celebration for the inspiration
we find in this park—and for the magic and adventure that await
future visitors, who will one day join you and me in experiencing
the legacy of Denali’s timeless beauty.
Please stay in touch with the park website and social media
outlets for details about upcoming events and initiatives. Denali
is celebrating, and we would love for you to join us.
• Store all food, coolers and grills inside your vehicle or in a
bear resistant food locker.
• Only take pictures. There is no collecting of park resources
• Dispose of garbage in appropriate receptacles.
I found mine more than 20 years ago. I am one of few people lucky
enough to live here all year, experiencing all seasons. Every day the
sweeping landscapes change before my eyes. The alpenglow paints
the curves and edges of glacially carved mountains. The first buds
of spring tentatively poke their green shoots out of the snow. Baby
animals are born: a spring bear cub emerges from its winter den
to frolic with its family; a moose calf takes its first tenuous steps.
Wildflowers and other plants wake up to summer, riotous with
purpose before our short summer ends in a tapestry of incredible
patterns and colors. The skies fill with returning feathered visitors,
and one hears again the sweet call of the Swainson’s thrush, the
honk of geese, and the croaky cries of Sandhill cranes all lifting
in flight. Some birds stay and raise young here and some are
simply visiting on their way to breeding grounds in distant deltas
and wetlands. On tundra ponds, swans practice cursive with
their beautifully curved necks, loons dive over and over, making
clownish calls to each other. Whether your visit is for a few hours
or, like mine, for many years, this park offers open space, solitude,
adventure, peace, and beauty to all who make the long journey to
experience it.
Park ranger, circa 1939.
• Please read and follow rules and advisories on park signs
in wilderness such as rocks, flowers, and artifacts.
As Denali’s Centennial Organizer, I invite you to help us
commemorate historic events and join two years of celebration.
This year and next, Denali invites you to “Find Your Park.”
DENA 22655, Denali NPP Museum Collection
Ranger staff, 1940s.
Share Your Story
• Pets are never allowed off leash. Make sure you walk your
pet in an approved area.
We've made it easy for you to tell others about the things you've seen
• If you are visiting the park with a guide company, make sure
and experienced during your visit to Denali. If you have a minute to spare,
it has obtained the appropriate permits.
and a telephone, you can record a story that may appear on the park
Rangers are out in the campgrounds, driving roads
and hiking the trails every day. Please feel free to
ask questions about the park and our profession.
We are more than happy to share our knowledge
with you.
website with links from popular social media feeds.
To record "Your Denali Story," please call 907 683-6400
Learn more at http://go.nps.gov/DenaliStory
DENA 23558, Denali NPP Museum Collection
April 1950.
4 Denali National Park and Preserve, Alaska
Passengers of the Mt. McKinley Tourist and Transportation Company view the mountain, circa 1939.
Photo Courtesy of Alaska State Library, Skinner Foundation Photograph Collection, P44-05-016A
Alaska's 'Great One' Has Returned Officially
“Mount McKinley National Park” officially prevailed
after its legislation was signed into law on
February 26, 1917.
by Erik K. Johnson
Park Historian
On the eve of the National Park Service’s
100th anniversary, the name of the highest peak in
North America changed from “Mount McKinley”
to “Denali.” The timing of the change not only helps
mark the agency’s centennial, it shines a light on the
long human history of the park, and illuminates a
naming debate that has lasted more than 100 years.
The controversy started before the establishment of
the park and has continued into the present. Charles
Sheldon and Belmore Browne, who were the strongest
advocates for the formation of the park, probably
would have been pleased to hear about the 2015
decision by the Secretary of the Interior to restore the
name “Denali” to North America’s highest peak.
On January 13th, 1916, hunternaturalist Charles Sheldon made
an appeal to Thomas Riggs of the
Alaska Engineering Commission
regarding the naming of the park
and its crown jewel:
“I hope that in the bill you will
call it ‘Mt Denali National Park’
so that the true old Indian name
of Mt McKinley (meaning
‘the Great One’) will thus be
preserved.”
Despite the official decision to use “Mount McKinley”
as the name of the peak and the national park, the
debate did not die. It proved difficult to supplant
words and meanings that endured for generations
among Athabaskan groups living in close proximity
to the mountain. Athabaskan words for the mountain
translate to “the tall one” or “mountain-big”
(perhaps Riggs did not know the Native words were
descriptive). “McKinley” was incompatible with the
Athabaskan worldview because they rarely name
places after people.
In 1975, the name controversy reemerged when
the State of Alaska petitioned the U.S. Board on
Geographic Names (USBGN) to change the name
of the mountain to Denali officially. Unfortunately
for Alaskans, the Ohio congressional delegation
(representing former-President McKinley’s home
state) blocked their efforts for the next four decades.
In 1980, momentum continued to favor the name
Denali after the Alaska National Interest Lands
Conservation Act changed the park’s name to
Denali National Park and Preserve. But the official
name of the mountain remained Mount McKinley.
Charles Sheldon
DENA 1966,
Denali NPP Museum Collection
On the same day that Sheldon
sent his letter, mountaineer Belmore Browne also
wrote to Riggs about the naming of the park and was
unequivocal in his language, referring to the proposed
park as
“Denali National Park.”
Sheldon, Browne, and Riggs were part of a team that
was drafting legislation to establish a national park
protecting wildlife. Sheldon and Browne, who had
both spent significant time within the proposed park
boundaries, were deeply alarmed by the decimation
of the region’s game due to market hunting and the
impending arrival of the railroad. They were also
concerned about preserving for the mountain a Native
name which increasingly was being dismissed or
completely ignored by American mapmakers, and in
other publications.
Riggs disagreed with Sheldon and Browne.
In his reply to Browne, Riggs declared:
“I don’t like the name of Denali. It is not descriptive.
Everybody in the United States knows of
Mt. McKinley and the various efforts made
to climb it. In consequence, both Mr. Yard and
I think that the name McKinley should stick.”
While Sheldon and Browne did not agree with
Riggs’s point-of-view, their ultimate objective was
to pass a bill quickly, so in a steadfast effort to keep
things moving, they capitulated to Riggs on the name.
Name-change efforts led by Alaskan politicians
continued to be thwarted by Congress until President
Barack Obama and Secretary of the Interior
Sally Jewell took action in 2015 to restore the name
Denali to the mountain. Secretary Jewell cited a 1947
law that empowers the Secretary of Interior to use
authority when the USBGN “does not act within a
reasonable time” as a justification to make the change.
No fewer than nine Native groups, from time
immemorial, have used unique names for the
mountain. There are five Athabaskan languages
surrounding the park, each with its own oral place
name. According to University of Alaska linguist
J