Civil War Defenses of Washington

A Hiker’s Guide to the Civil War Defenses of Washington Fort Mahan to Fort Stanton Self-Guided Tour First Edition March 2018 Library of Congress Civil War Defenses of Washington National Park Service US Department of the Interior 2 Dear Hiker, of Columbia (1902) This guide complements two similar hiking guides and a hiking and biking brochure (see “Resources”). Together, the opportunity to explore the Civil War Defenses of Washington on foot could become one of the most unique experiences in the region. The overall route—exceptional in the National Trails System--is recognized as a segment of the Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail (PHT), a developing network between the mouth of the Potomac River and the Allegheny Highlands. We hope you enjoy the walk. Donald E. Briggs, Superintendent Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail David N. Myers, Ph.D., ASLA, Associate Professor University of Maryland Designers: Beverly Hernandez and Sarah Whiteley (2018) Renee LaGue (2014) Jessica L. Heinz (2013) The PHT network in the region includes the C & O Canal Towpath; Mount Vernon Trail & PHT within George Washington Memorial Parkway; and Southern Maryland PHT bicycling route. Welcome The Civil War Defenses of Washington, built by Union troops between 1861 and 1864, are an engineering feat that transformed the vulnerable capital into one of the most fortified cities in the world. The 1902 “MacMillan Plan” proposed a vehicular parkway connecting the Civil War fortifications, many located on the topographic high points. Today the surviving sites–some with preserved or reconstructed earthworks–are green spaces woven into the past and present of neighborhoods in the midst of a densely populated city, and the connections between and among them reimagined as a “greenway” and a continuous route for pedestrian travel. “With the Anacostia and the Potomac below and the city of Washington spread out beyond and the hills of Virginia in the distance, these are the most beautiful of the broad views to be had in the District.” - MacMillan Commission Plan for the District 3 Trail Information Planning Your Visit For information on trail closures and alerts for Fort Totten and Fort Bunker Hill, visit Civil War Defenses of Washington at Rock Creek Park website (www.nps.gov/rocr) or call (202) 895-6070. For Fort Mahan information, visit the National Capital Parks-East website (www.nps.gov/nace) or call (202) 829-4650. Restaurants, gas stations, and convenience stores can be found around Fort Totten, along Eastern Avenue, and Benning Road. You can help protect the defenses! You play an important role in history when you visit the Civil War Defenses of Washington. For your safety and the preservation of the forts, do not climb on the earthworks– some are unstable and healthy vegetation helps to prevent erosion. All natural and cultural objects are protected by law. Stay on established trails and keep dogs on a leash. Leave rocks, animals, and wildflowers in place. Learn to identify and avoid poison ivy. Dial 911 for emergencies. Rock Rock Creek Creek NatureNature Center Center 4 1 Miles Minnesota Avenue Metro Station Benning Bridge Metro and Capital Bikeshare Stations shown within 1/2 mile of Civil War Defenses of Washington Trail Fort Mahan Stadium Armory Metro Station d Benning Road Metro Station Ki ng m an Isl an Fort Chaplin rT ra il Potomac Avenue Metro Station ac os tia Ri ve Fort Dupont Park Navy Yard a An tia s co er Riv e nu in s ne M ot ve aA Pen nsy lva nia Fort Dupont Av en ue Fort Davis Anacostia Park Buzzard Point Anacostia Metro Station W Fort Ricketts Fort Stanton as hi ng to M n ar D. yl C. an D Planning Your Visit ¯ 0.5 An 0 Route Overview: Fort Mahan to Fort Stanton (about 6.0 miles) 5 Washington, D.C. 1865 Map Courtesy of Library of Congress Background Information Fort Sites Highlighted in Blue 6 Engineering For War Library of Congress By 1864, Washington had become one of the most fortified cities in the world, with an encircling array of forts, batteries, and military roads. At the war’s end, Barnard reported that the defenses of Washington included 68 enclosed forts and batteries, emplacements for 1,120 guns (with 807 guns and 98 mortars actually mounted), 93 unarmed batteries with 401 emplacements for field-guns, twenty miles of rifle trenches, three blockhouses, and thirty-two miles of military roads linking the defenses. Library of Congress Library of Congress Background Information Minnesota Historical Society At the outset of the Civil War, the Federal capital of Washington, D.C. was not well-prepared to defend itself against potential Confederate siege or invasion. Reeling from the unexpected Confederate victory at First Manassas (Bull Run) in July 1861, the task of fortifying the capital fell to Major John G. Barnard (top right), the US Army’s chief engineer. Relying on the blueprints outlined by his West Point professor of engineering, Dennis Hart Mahan, in his Complete Treatise on Field Fortification (1836), Barnard marshaled Union troops, civilians, and escaped slaves to transform a largely rural area into a landscape of war. 7 Getting There 0 250 Directions from Minnesota Avenue Metro to Fort Mahan Na nn ie H ele n 1,000 Feet Bu rro ugh sA ve N nu e ¯ 500 e nu Av e th or Minnesota Avenue . Metro Grant St NE 131 ft 26 ft 0.2 mi Fort Mahan is straight ahead y I-2 95 Ke ni lw ! For Minnesota Avenue exit turn right towards Minnesota Ave NE Turn right onto Minnesota Ave NE Cross Minnesota Avenue Turn left onto Grant St NE Turn right at trail along 42nd St NE Fort Mahan Ben ning Roa d 42nd Street NE An a co st ia Fw Directions from Minnesota Avenue Metro to Fort Mahan via Kennelworth Avenue NE Take overhead pedestrian walkway to Kennelworth Avenue NE Turn left onto Kennelworth Avenue NE Turn right onto Deane Ave NE. Continue onto Nannie Helen Burroughs Ave NE Turn right onto Trail at Watts Branch Turn right onto Hunt Place NE Turn left at trail along 42nd St NE Fort Mahan is straight ahead 0.2 mi 0.4 mi 0.1 mi 456 ft 66 ft 0.2 mi Fort Mahan M NE in n es ot a Av e E 5.7 mi 8 From a Dec. 24, 1862 letter to Hon. E. M. Stanton, Secretary of War: “Fort Mahan may be considered an advanced tete-de-pont to Benning’s Bridge, and commands the valley of the Eastern Branch as far as Bladensburg, as well as the immediate approaches to the bridge. It is situated upon an isolated hill, the steep slopes of which are unseen from the fort, and are necessarily defended by external rifle-pits. As long as this work is held, an enemy cannot bring artillery to bear upon the bridge, nor move in force along the road which leads from Baldness-burg to the NavyYard Bridge.” Originally completed in 1861, Fort Mahan underwent numerous repairs and renovations. The intensive modifications resulted in a nine sided fortification totaling 354 yards. Fort Mahan included a guard house, barracks, officers’ quarters, a mess house, and stables and sheds. The parapet walls blocked views of the enemy approaches, causing them to build rifle pits on the surrounding steep hillsides. The fort had structures on every side of it to defend a full range of attack options. In the summer of 1865 when Civil War forts were being abandoned, Fort Mahan was one of the eleven forts retained. It was then given back to the original owner, the Manning Family. Authorized garrison: 531 infantry and 216 artillerymen. Fort Mahan was named for Dennis Hart Mahan, an American soldier and West Point Military Academy professor who taught civil and military engineering. Most Civil War commanders, both Union and Confederate, learned about fortifications and strategy from Mahan’s lectures and writing. Fort Mahan Fort Mahan was part of the fourth section of forts (terminating with Fort Greble) of the Defenses of Washington south of the Eastern Branch of the Potomac (Anacostia River). The main purpose of the Fort Mahan was to protect Benning’s Bridge. History United States Military Academy Library 9 Exploring the Site Today Av en ue M et ro 1 An entry path leads from 42nd Street NE up the hill to a large open meadow. M Av e nu e Fort Mahan 2 An open meadow is locatedon the hilltop of Fort Mahan Park. The Washington Mounment is visible from selected vantage points. Some visible remains of earthworks, including a rifle battery, can be found on the hilltop. in ne s ot a Grant Street NE 1 4 4 A circular loop trail provides a wide variety of hiking experiences - from open clearings to densely forested. Fortification earthworks are clearly visible in north, south, and east locations of Fort Mahan Park. ning Roa dN E 3 42nd Street NE Ben 2 Georgia Ave NW M in ne so ta 3 A entry path to the circular loop trail is located along Benning Road on the south side of Fort Mahan Park. This area has open lawns and large canopy trees. 10 Getting There 0 500 1,000 2,000 Feet u " ¯ Fort Mahan to Fort Chaplin 0.3 mi os tia An ac Av e Fort Mahan Ben 41st St NE Benning Stoddert 42nd St NE Blaine Street NE Mi nn eso ta nin gR oad Fort Chaplin is straight ahead u " East Capitol Street SE Fort Chaplin Recreation Center ¯ C Street SE Benning Stoddert Recreation Center is located just west of Fort Chaplin on East Capitol Street SE 45 ft 285 ft 144 ft 0.1 mi 180 ft Fort Chalpin From the south entrance on Benning Road NE cross Benning Road 41st Street NE turns slightly right and becomes Flint Place NE Turn left toward 41st Street NE Follow hiking trail or continue onto 41st Street NE Cross East Capitol Street SE at 41st Street NE cross walk Turn right onto E Capitol Street SE Turn left onto hiking trail Minnesota Ave.Metro Fw yI -2 95 " 11 History Library of Congress The construction of Fort Chaplin, just south of Fort Mahan and Bennings Bridge began in 1864 and was completed in the same year. Colonel Barton S. Alexander, the second Chief of Defenses, placed it among the second class of fortifications for purposes of retention. It had 12 gun emplacements, eleven, of which were empty, and a single 24-pounder siege gun mounted and set in position (en barbette) was the fort’s sole armament. It had a perimeter of about 225 yards, and was built at the altitude of approximately 180 feet. Library of Congress There were no buildings at the site when the army returned the land back to the original land owner, Selby B. Scaggs, in the summer of 1865. The fort is named after Colonel Daniel Chaplin. He was commander of the 1st Maine Heavy Artillery when he was struck down by a bullet from a Confederate sharpshooter at Deep Bottom, Virginia, on August 17, 1864. Chaplin died from his wound three days later on August 20, 1864. Fort Chalpin Colonel Barton S. Alexander 12 Exploring the Site Today 1 Fort Chaplin Park is primarily forested. Understory vegetation includes native shrubs Mountain Laurel, (Kalmia latifolia) and Pinxter Azalea (Rhododendron periclymenoides). 4 1 2 C Street SE 3 2 The fort ruins are located at the highest elevations of the site. 3 An open lawn and meadow border Texas Avenue SE. An interpreative sign is located here. 4 Benning Stoddert Recreation and Community Center, operated by the D.C. Department of Parks and Recreation, offers outdoor basketball and tennis courts. Fort Chalpin East Capitol Street SE 13 ¯ 0.125 0.25 Fort Chaplin Park to Fort Dupont Fort Chaplin 0.5 Miles Turn right onto C St SE Turn left onto Fort Circle Park trail Cross Texas Ave SE at Ridge Road Cross Ridge Road at intersection to enter Fort Dupont Park 174 ft 0.5 mi 20 ft 20 ft ta Av en ue Ely Place 1.2 mi You have arrived at Fort Dupont Park. See the following pages for information Mi nn eso Fort Dupont Park Follow trail to Massachusetts Ave SE Rid ge Ma ssa chu Ro ad set ts A ve Fort Dupont Park to Fort Davis SE Cross Massachusetts Ave SE at cross walk Follow trail to Fort Davis Park Fort Dupont ¯ Pen nsy lva nia 0.5 mi Av en ue Fort Davis 0.6 mi You have arrived at Fort Davis. See the following pages for information about the history and exploring the site today. Fort Chaplin Park to Fort Davis:Total 2.3 mi Fort DuPont and Fort Davis 0 Getting There 14 History Fort Dupont was named for Rear Admiral Samuel F. Dupont, who commanded the naval victory at Port Royal, South Carolina, in November 1861. Although its garrison and guns never saw battle, Fort Dupont served as a lifeline of freedom. Runaway slaves found safety here before moving on to join the growing community freed former slaves in Washington. Library of Congress Fort Davis was built with a perimeter of about 225 yards. Fort Davis had no buildings. A 17 May 1864 report from the Union Inspector of Artillery noted the following: “Fort Davis, Lieut. D. D. Dana commanding. – Garrison, one-half company Ninth Unattached Company Massachusetts Volunteer Artillery–1 commissioned officer, 1 ordnancesergeant, and 32 men. Armament, five 6-pounder field guns, three 24-pounder barbette, three 8-inch siege howitzers, one Coehorn mortar. Magazines, two; dry and in good order. Ammunition, full supply. Implements, complete and serviceable. Garrison not drilled at artillery.” Fort Davis was named in honor of Colonel Benjamin F. Davis, 8th NY Cavalry. Benjamin Franklin Davis, commonly known as “Grimes,” was a Mississippian who fought for the Union during the Civil War. Fort DuPont and Fort Davis Fort Dupont, a hexagonal structure constructed in 1861-1862, had a perimter of 200 yards, and was protected by a deep moat and trees felled side-by-side with branches pointing outward. Structures wihin the fort included a 2000 sq.ft. barracks, a mess hall, and two officer’s quarters. Fort Dupont supported a garrison of 300 infrantry and 117 artillerymen. Fort Dupont was armed with three 8-inch siege howitzers, three 24-pounder seacoast guns, two 6-pounder field guns, and one 24-pounder Coehorn mortar. 15 Exploring the Site Today 3 2 Fort Davis Drive SE bisects Fort Dupont from Ridge Road SE to Massachusetts Ave SE. 4 2 Ma ssa chu set ts A ve SE 1 ue en a Av am Alab 5 3 In the 1930s, the National Capital Planning Commission acquired the old fort and surrounding land for recreation. A golf course was constructed and as the city grew, golf gave way in 1970 to the sports complex along Ely Place. Facilities now include tennis and basketball courts, athletic fields, and a softball diamond. An indoor ice rink offers skating. 4 A parking lot at Fort Dupont Dr SE provides access to the Fort Dupont Park Activity Center and trails throughout Fort Dupont Park. 5 Remains of Fort Davis earthworks are visible. A interpretive sign and interpretive bronze plaque located on a stone are also located here. Fort DuPont and Fort Davis 1 Traces of the fort earthworks and an interpretive bronze plaque can be seen in the center of the one way loop drive that is accessed from Alabama Avenue. A picnic area is also located here. 16 0.25 0.5 Pen Pen nsy nsy nia lva nia Av en ue Ho pe Rd ue Fort Davis SE Fort Stanton Recreation Center n D to n g sh ry a a in la Fort Ricketts is on your left as you approach Erie Street SE M Fort Ricketts W Fort Stanton D. C. Frederick Douglas Estate od Av en E lva Follow trail from Pennsylvania Avenue to Branch Ave SE Cross Branch Ave SE Follow trail to 28th St SE Cross 28th St SE Continue on trail to Good Hope Rd SE Cross Good Hope Rd SE Continue on trail to Fort Ricketts SE Branch Ave ¯ Go Fort Davis to Fort Ricketts 1 Miles The Smithsonian Anacostia Community Museum is located accross Erie Street SE Smithsonian Anacostia Community Museum it d lan Su ay rkw Pa The Fort Stanton Recreation Center is located on Erie Street SE ¯ Directions to the Frederic Douglass National Historic Site are on a following page 1.3 mi 0.4 mi 0.5 mi 0.4 mi 0.4 mi Fort Ricketts and Fort Stanton 0 Getting There 17 Fort Stanton was constructed to protect the Maryland or eastern end of the two bridges crossing the Anacostia and to occupy the heights above the Navy Yard and Washington Arsenal. “Fort Stanton occupies the nearest point of the ridge to the arsenal and navy-yard, andoverlooks Washington, the Potomac, and Eastern Branch. It is a work of considerable dimensions, well built, and tolerably well armed. Casemates for reversed fires are recommended in northwest and southwest counterscarp angles, and platforms for two or three rifled guns on the east front. The deep ravine which flanks this work on two sides requires some additional precaution, and further study of it is recommended.” Library of Congress Fort Ricketts and Fort Stanton Fort Ricketts was constructed after the Battle of First Manassas, when it was determined that the fortification of the entire city would be necessary. on the north. Fort Ricketts was built to sweep a ravine in front of Fort Stanton that it could not cover. Fort Ricketts was a small fort with a perimeter of 123 yards equipped with four guns requiring a garrison of 206 men (42 artillery and 164 infantry). History 18 Exploring the Site Today Goo d Ho pe R oad 2 Some fort related exhibits are located at the Smithsonian’s Anacostia Community Museum. SE 3 The Fort Stanton Recreation Center offers a variety of outdoor facilities. 4 4 The Frederic Douglass National Historic Site preserves and interprets Cedar Hill, where Frederick Douglass lived from 1877 until his death in 1895. The centerpiece of the site is the historic house, which sits on top of a 50-foot hill and eight acres of the original estate. Restored to its 1895 appearance, the house is furnished with original objects that belonged to Douglass. 3 Erie St. SE 1 2 Library of Congress NPS Fort Ricketts and Fort Stanton 1 Overgrown remains of the Fort Ricketts earthworks and two separate markers can be found on the site. 19 ¯ 0.1 er th Lu e Av Frederick Douglass National Historic Site SE K ris a M Jr or n rti ing M SE Anacostia Metro Route to Fort Greble Fort Stanton Area to Frederick Douglass National Historic Site 1.0 mi From Fort Stanton area turn right (west) onto Erie St SE Continue onto Morris Rd SE Head west on Erie St SE Turn right onto Hunter Pl SE Continue onto Pomeroy Rd SE Continue straight onto Bangor St SE Slight left onto 16th St SE Turn left onto W St SE 0.2 mi 0.3 mi 0.3 mi 0.1 mi 151 ft 167 ft 404 ft 0.2 mi Frederick Douglass National Historic Site is on your left Rd ! 0.2 Miles Er Fort Stanton ie St SE Fort Stanton Area to Anacostia Metro Station Head west on Erie St SE toward 18th Pl SE Continue onto Morris Rd SE Turn left onto Martin Luther King Jr Ave SE Turn right onto Howard Rd SE Anacostia Metro Station is on your left 1.2 mi 0.2 mi 0.8 mi 0.2 mi 479ft Anacostia Metro Station 0 Getting There 20 Potomac National Scenic Heritage Trail Regional Trail Network The route connecting the Civil War Defenses of Washington is part of a network of trails and routes between the mouth of the Potomac River and the Allegheny Highlands. The Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail network, a component of the National Trails System, is a means to explore contrasting landscapes on foot and by bicycle, horse, boat and crosscountry skis. Sources and Additional Information: Civil War Defenses of Washington: www.nps.gov/cwdw Rock Creek Park (Fort Stephens, Fort Totten, Fort Bunker Hill): www.nps.gov/rocr National Capital Parks-East (Fort Mahan): www.nps.gov/nace District Dept. of Transportation: www.ddot.dc.gov Metro Rail and Metrobus: www.wmata.com Potomac Heritage National Scenic Trail: www.nps.gov/pohe Capital Trails Coalition: www.capitaltrailscoalition.org Cultural Tourism DC: www.culturaltourismdc.org Washington Parks & People: www.washingtonparks.net Cooling, B.F III. and W. H. Owen II. Mr. Lincoln’s Forts: A Guide to the Civil War Defenses of Washington. Lanham, Maryland: Scarecrow Press, Inc., 2010. National Capital Planning Commission. CapitalSpace: Ideas to Achieve the Full Potential of Washington’s Parks and Open Space. Washington, DC: NCPC, 2010. GIS Aerial Photo Basemap Source: Esri, DigtalGlobe, GeoEye, i-cubed, USDA, USGS, AEX, Getmapping, Aerogrid, IGN, IGP, swisstopo, and the GIS User Community Resources Civil War Defenses / Additional of Washington Information National Park Service US Department of the Interior