Congaree

A Last Stand for Floodplain Forests I 1 • or £ .21.M- 2° * 5 <u -Or", r ; a- C -* C »- • — It o° 10 o£ Z D Z i/i 1A I I A l o n g t h e meandering Congaree River rests Congaree National Park, a w o r l d of primeval forest landscapes, champion trees, diverse p l a n t and animal life, and t r a n q u i l i t y . This 22,200-acre park protects t h e largest contiguous area o f o l d - g r o w t h b o t t o m l a n d hardw o o d forest r e m a i n i n g in t h e U n i t e d States. Congaree's b o t t o m l a n d or f l o o d p l a i n forest is a w e t l a n d system of t h e Congaree River, creator a n d caretaker of t h e park's magnificent forest. Because t h e park experiences w e t and dry periods as t h e river floods and recedes w i t h seasonal rains, t h e v i t a l i t y o f t h e park's f o r e s t ecosystem depends on t h e g o o d health of the Congaree River. Until t h e latter half of t h e 1800s t h e r e w e r e more t h a n 52 m i l l i o n acres o f f l o o d p l a i n forests in t h e southeastern United States—with more than one m i l l i o n acres in South Carolina a l o n e . In t h e 1880s t h e lumber industry began harvesting these forests. Exploring Congaree National Park V i s i t o r Center The visitor center is open daily from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. year-round except December 25. It has information, exhibits, and a schedule of activities. If you are planning an overnight hiking or canoeing trip, stop at the visitor center for a free camping permit, a trail map, and upto-date information. Fires are prohibited except in the park's designated primitive campsites. Bald cypress trees and their knees (far left and above). A male Carolina anole displays his bright pink throat fan to defend his territory or attract mates. Most of the park consists of Congressionally designated wilderness. Motorized vehicles and water craft are not allowed. You have the opportunity to experience the park's natural wonders on f o o t or by canoe. On foot—The boardwalk loop provides wheelchair access to Weston Lake and foot access to other trails that w i n d through the floodplain forest (see map at left)- Colored markers make the trails easy to follow. Guided nature walks are offered. Call ahead to arrange group tours. By canoe—A marked canoe trail invites you to explore Cedar Creek. Bring your o w n canoe and personal f l o t a t i o n devices. Canoes may be rented in the Columbia, S.C., area. Before canoeing ask the park staff about current water levels and conditions. I General Information c I < South Carolina's oldgrowth floodplain forest cover in the 1800s (white areas). Old-growth forests today: 2,000 acres, Francis Beidler Forest (small area); 11,000 acres, protected in Congaree National Park (larger area). M a n y remnants t h a t survived t h e ax and p l o w w e r e d r o w n e d by reservoirs. In less t h a n 50 years most of these great b o t t o m l a n d forests w e r e decimated. 0) CD f5 c s Congaree's trees escaped large-scale c u t t i n g d u e t o t h e difficulty of l o g g i n g in a w e t l a n d area and t o the t i m b e r conservation ethic o f Francis Beidler, w h o s e l u m b e r c o m p a n y purchased b o t t o m l a n d forests in South Carolina b e t w e e n 1890 and 1905. The limited l o g g i n g activity t h a t occurred a l o n g t h e Congaree River ceased in 1914. In t h e 1950s conservationist Harry H a m p t o n recognized t h a t t h e Congaree forest w a s one of the f e w remaining ecosystems of its kind and began e f f o r t s t o p r o t e c t it. T w o decades later, w h e n logging again threatened t h e area's giant trees, a public campaign led Congress t o establish Congaree S w a m p National M o n u m e n t in 1976. In N o v e m b e r 2003 it became Congaree National Park. Today it is a sanctuary for plants and animals, a research site f o r scientists, and a peaceful place f o r y o u t o explore a forest of t o w e r i n g trees and diverse w i l d l i f e . o 0 5 River otters are sociable creatures that you might see playing in creeks and lakes. Barred owls frequent floodplain forests and swamps. Safety a n d R e g u l a t i o n s • Pets must be leashed; they are allowed on all trails except the boardwalk. • Be alert for potential hazards associated w i t h a wilderness environment, including poison ivy, stinging insects, snakes, and mosquitoes. • A South Carolina fishing license is required for fishing. Minnows and fish eggs are prohibited as bait. Fishing is not allowed in Weston Lake. • The following are not permitted: bicycles and motor vehicles on trails, littering, firearms, digging bait, picking plants, and disturbing wildlife. • Emergencies: call 9 1 1 . Getting t o the Park Congaree National Park is southeast of Columbia, S.C. From I-77 take exit 5 onto S.C. 48 (Bluff Road). Follow the signs t o the park. More Information Congaree National Park 100 National Park Road Hopkins, SC 29061 803-776-4396 www.nps.gov/cosw Congaree National Park is one of more than 380 parks in the National Park System. The National Park Service cares for these special places saved by the American people so that all may experience our heritage. To learn more visit www.nps.gov. Canoeists can explore parts of the park where foot travel is difficult. There is a marked canoe trail on Cedar Creek. Question mark butterfly. Wilderness is meant to protect forever both the land's natural conditions and opportunities for solitude and primitive recreation and scientific, educational, and historical values. In wilderness people can sense being a part of the whole community of life on Earth. For information visit www.wilderness.net. OGPO:2004—304-337/00175 Rep/iot 2004 Printed on recycled paper. Local record h e i g h t s Home of Champions IS) o LL. "O c Q. o LL. > Floodplain Forests and Elevation Changes of only a f e w feet in elevation result in differences in the length of time an area is flooded—and dramatic changes in soil conditions. These differences allow diverse associations of tree species to g r o w in the floodplain. Sycamore, cottonwood, and hackberry trees, whose roots tolerate periodic inundation, occur along Floods, essential t o t h e health o f t h e park's w e t l a n d ecosystem, d e p e n d o n r a i n f a l l w i t h i n t h e Congaree River w a t e r s h e d . This w a t e r s h e d drains more t h a n 8,000 square miles o f n o r t h w e s t S o u t h Carolina a n d w e s t e r n North Carolina. A p p r o x i m a t e l y 25 miles upriver f r o m the w e s t e r n b o u n d ary of t h e park, t h e Broad and t h e Saluda rivers j o i n t o f o r m t h e Congaree River. Elevation changes a l o n g t h e Congaree w i t h i n t h e park are slight. The f l o o d p l a i n w i t h i n t h e park is relatively flat, w i t h only a 20-foot d r o p over 23 miles o f river. Flooding occurs in t h e Congaree f l o o d p l a i n an average of 10 times a year, usually in w i n t e r and early spring. Floodwaters enter the f l o o d p l a i n w h e n t h e Congaree River o v e r f l o w s its n a t u r a l banks a n d rises t h r o u g h breaks in t h e banks. W i t h i n t h e f l o o d p l a i n t h e w a t e r courses t h r o u g h a n e t w o r k of creeks, sloughs, and guts, some of w h i c h are f o r m e r riverbeds. Once these are f i l l e d , t h e w a t e r disperses across f l a t g r o u n d . F l o o d w a t e r s d e p o s i t rich soils w h o s e nutrients support the complex plant communities, including t h e unusual array of giant trees f o r w h i c h Congaree National Park is k n o w n . B o t h t h e canopies a n d understories of t h e park's forests h a r b o r champion trees—trees t h a t h o l d t h e record f o r size w i t h i n t h e i r species. There are at least 20 such champions here, including loblolly pines, hickories, and bald cypress. The forest is always changing. Windstorms and other natural disturbances are c o m m o n in s o u t h e a s t e r n b o t t o m l a n d forests, altering t h e c o m p o s i t i o n a n d character o f t h e s e d y n a m i c ecosystems. Impressive h e i g h t s a n d shallow, disk-shaped r o o t systems make Congaree's trees particularly prone t o t o p p l i n g . W h e n a large tree falls, its c r o w n may leave a half-acre o p e n i n g in t h e forest canopy, w h i c h a l l o w s s u n l i g h t t o reach the forest floor. Vines, switch cane, and other sun-loving plants quickly occupy these openings. Slower g r o w i n g , shadetolerant plants emerge, block the sunl i g h t , a n d e v e n t u a l l y reclaim t h e o p e n space. The d o w n e d trees, limbs, and logs on t h e forest f l o o r provide homes t o many animals and contribute t o t h e variety of habitats and biodiversity. S w e e t g u m and Mixed Hardwoods stream and river banks. This common associaBald cypress and tupelo tion occurs throughout the floodplain. Sweetdominate in low areas gums, along w i t h of standing water, swamp chestnut oak, along w i t h water ash and red maple. Overcup laurel oak, water oak, elm, green ash, and oak, laurel oak, and green ash are abundant numerous other hardw o o d trees, dominate in better-drained flats. the canopy. Ironwood, On drier soils, dense holly, and pawpaw are stands of cherrybark oak, water oak, sweet- abundant in the understory. gum, and holly thrive. Loblolly pines are indicators of slightly higher ground. Floodplain Biodiversity Congaree National Park ranks among the most diverse forest communities in North America. There are 22 different plant communities in the park. Preliminary surveys have f o u n d more than 80 species of trees, more than 170 bird species, 60 reptile and amphibian species, and 49 fish species. Bald cypress trees grow in lower elevations creeks, sloughs, and oxbow lakes. along W a t e r tupelo American e l m Cherrybark oak Loblolly pine Cross-section of t h e Congaree River Floodplain Bald Cypress Congaree National Park's forests are healthy and vigorous. Bald cypress trees regenerate readily here despite their strict requirements for seedling establishment and g r o w t h . Because of their extensive root systems, bald cypress rarely are blown d o w n , unlike hardwoods. The largest bald cypress in the park is 27 feet, 5 inches in circumference. Buttressed bases and knees, which are part of t h e root system, make this tree easy t o identify. Knees up to TA feet high have been found here. Shown above in crosssection, the topography of the Congaree River floodplain changes only slightly in e l e v a t i o n . This profile sections the park on a line from A Forest's Profile Like most plant communities, including your yard, forests grow in layers. Attaining a height of more than 150 feet, the forest profile at Congaree National Park may reach f r o m the ground to the top of a record-size loblolly pine. Variations in amounts of sunlight and moisture create different microclimates amid the layers of forest. Wild grapevines and poison ivy may climb all the w a y into the forest's canopy. To the right of the diagram are descriptions of the various forest layers and the emergent trees that rise above the canopy. section enlarged below. The enlargements show h o w the forest cover changes w i t h slight changes in elevation Numbered circles identi- and near the river and fy portions of the cross- Weston Lake. high bluffs south of the river t o the visitor center on the lower northern bluff line. Emergent Trees Rising above the canopy, in the top layer of the forest profile, the emergent trees spread their crowns in full light. They get more light and air but less humidity than the vegetation below. Organisms living in emergent trees differ from those in canopy layers. High Canopy Giant sweetgum, tupelo, hackberry, elm, and ash trees, along w i t h several species of oak and hickory, f o r m the canopy. Summer sunlight cannot readily penetrate this dense layer. Q O < | O Z i< o Q Z o a z z g | Sub-canopy Red mulberry, red maple, American holly, and other trees occur here. Understory and Forest Floor Small trees such as pawpaw and ironwood, shrubs such as spicebush and strawberrybush, and thickets of switch cane abound. Low-growing grasses and sedges dominate occasional expanses of open understory. Loblolly Pines One loblolly pine more than 15 feet in circumference and 167 feet tall ranks among the park's champion trees. Loblollies here represent several age groups: less than 100 years, 125-150 years, and 200 or more years. They have o u t g r o w n their neighbors, but they are not regenerating. The combination of loblolly pines w i t h hardwoods is an uncommon forest association in floodplains. Past disturbances of normal forest succession patterns enabled the loblollies t o gain a f o o t h o l d . The exact cause and sequence of disturbances t h a t encourage loblolly regeneration remain a mystery.