Chiricahua

National Monument Arizona Chiricahua National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Official Map and Guide exploring a fantasy world of extraordinary rock sculptures, sculptures created not by man's hand but by forces of nature over millions of years. Called the Land of the Standing-Up Rocks" by the Chiricahua Apaches and later the Wonderland of Rocks by pioneers, this northwest corner of the Chiricahua Mountains harbors towering rock spires, massive stone columns, and huge balanced rocks weighing hundreds of tons that perch delicately on small pedestals. Where hundreds of these rocks occur together, such as in the Heart of Rocks (shown at right), the landscape appears as a rugged badlands. The story behind the rocks is not completely understood, but geologists be- volcanic eruptions from the nearby Turkey Creek caldera, as violent as any ever witnessed by man, spewed forth thick whitehot ash. This ash cooled and fused into an almost 2,000-foot thick layer of dark volcanic rock known as rhyolite. The Chiricahua Mountains formed from the upheaval •of this rock, and then the masters of erosionwater, wind, and ice—began sculpting the rock into an odd array of formations. Erosion Carved predominantly along weak areas^- vertical and horizontal cracks that had formed during the cooling:of the volcanic ash and" the building of the Chiricahuas. Today the " fascinating eroded rock forms are preserved in Chiricahua National Monument. Cover photo by Chuck Milliken David Muench Life in the Mountains The Chiricahua Mountains are a world apart from the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts that surround them, and from the other mountain ranges of the United States. In these cool, moist forested "sky islands," as they are sometimes called, dwell many plants and animals of the Southwest and—what makes these mountains different—a number of Mexican species. Mexico is 50 miles to the south, yet the Chiricahuas special mix of life is more like that found in the Mexican Sierra Madres than in any highlands in this country. The influence from the south v Paul Berquist. Mantey Photography Apache fox squirrel Hedgehog cactus is strong; many trees, wildf lowers, and animals have crossed the border into Chiricahua National Monument. Probably most conspicuous are the birds, such as sulphurbellied flycatchers, Mexican chickadees, and exotic-looking coppery tailed trogons, Mexican species all. Such an abundance of rare birds makes the Chiricahua Mountains a natural mecca for birders. The Mexican influence also includes mammals, such as the Apache fox squirrel, and trees, including the Chihuahua pine and Apache pine. The Mexican species intermingle with plants and animals more common to Southwest mountains. The variety of plants is rich, from the cactus of the lowlands, to the stunted oaks and pines, alligator juniper, and Arizona cypress that grow in dense forests in the canyons, to the scrubby manzanita-buckthornskunkbush chaparral of ridges, to the forests of ponderosa pine, Douglas-fir, and aspen that cover the highest slopes. A multitude of . animals inhabits these varied environments. including whitetail deer, coatimundis, peccaries, lizards, snakes, and other Southwest mountain creatures. jc| #v named the ranch Farita Canyon, included a away Ranch, because farm and cattle ranch. The only neighbors were it was so "god-awful far the Stafford family, who away from everything." lived in a log cabin close Together she and Ed by. By the 1920s one of explored the Chiricahua wilderness, with its the Ericksons daugh"wonderful cliff forters, Lillian, and her husband, Ed Riggs, had mations." They built trails and took guests turned the homestead into a prosperous guest on horseback trips to ranch. Lillian, the strong- see the "Wonderland of Rocks." In 1922 they willed "Lady Boss," showed photographs of the rock formations at county fairs and chambers of commerce, and promoted the idea of a national park. Two years later, in 1924, Chiricahua National Monument was established to preserve thearea'snatural wonders. ctiucx Mimxan A Place of Refuge The Chiricahua Mountains were the homeland of the Chiricahua Apaches. From these mountains the Apaches, led by Cochise and Geronimo, launched attacks against the onrushing tide of pioneers for more than 25 years. Their resistance slowed, but did not stop, settlement, and when Geronimo's band surrendered in 1886 and was removed to a distant reservation, a new way of life took over. Among the first pioneers to settle in the area were Neil and Emma Erickson, a Swedish immigrant couple. Their "little home in the foothills of the Chiricahuas," located in remote Bon- Ed and Lillian Riggs, left Faraway Banch,ca.1908, below Chiricahua Lookout Point, located along the Massai Point Nature Trail, offers closeup views of unusual rock formations. David Muench Pinnacle Balanced Rock is one of several spectacular features in the Heart of Rocks. Safety Tips and Regulations ity. During storms stay Pace yourself so that low, avoid open areas, the high altitudes and, and if possible, return in summer, warm tempto your vehicle. "When eratures, do not leave driving, watch for fallen you exhausted. Carry rocks on the road. "Do water on hikes. "Sumnot disturb natural or mer thunderstorms ofhistorical features. ten are accompanied by Hunting is prohibited, intense lightning activ- A rock grotto created by wind and water erosion is found along the Echo Canyon Trail. It is just one of a Chuck Milliken variety of rock formations that you hike under, over, around, and through on this 334-mile loop trail. as is collecting firewood. "Pets must be leashed; they are permitted on trails. • Watch for rattlesnakes, especially in summer. Echo Canyon Trail is a trail for all seasons, as are all the park's footpaths. Tom Bean Exploring Chiricahua Planning Your Visit The visitor center has brochures, books, maps, exhibits, and a slide show. Park rangers are available to talk over plans and interests with you. Schedules of park programs, such as guided walks and talks, are posted. These programs are offered in spring and summer. The center is open daily. You can also obtain information by writing: Superintendent, Chiricahua National Monument, DosCabezas Route, Box 6500, Willcox, AZ 85643; or calling: (602) 824-3560. Scenic Drive The winding 8-mile Bonita Canyon Drive climbs gradually through oak-juniper and pine forests to the crest of the Chiricahua Mountains. At the end a commanding view from Massai Point overlooks the park, the desert valleys beyond, and the landmark mountain peaks of Sugarloaf Mountain and Cochise Head. On your drive back, stop at roadside pullouts to see rock formations and other geologic features. Exhibits are located at several pullouts. Trails More than 17 miles of trails wind through the park. Many unusual rock formations, including Duck on a Rock, Totem Pole, and Big Balanced Rock, as well as many unnamed features, are located along the trails. Trails also lead to such oddities as a small natural bridge and a ledge of volcanic hailstonesevidence of the ancient eruptions that created the rock of Chiricahua. Hiking also takes you through the park's forests. Trails range from Va mile to 9 miles roundtrip. For more information, ask for the park's hiking brochure. Campground The park campground is open all year for tent and trailer camping. There are picnic tables, grills, restrooms, and drinking water. Trailers as long as 26 feet can be accommodated. You may also picnic here. F a r a w a y Ranch and Stafford Cabin Visitors may walk around the grounds of the ranch and cabin homestead. The Park Service plans to restore the buildings and furnishings and open them to the public by 1988. 4-GPO 1985-461-444/20103