Captain John Smith Chesapeake

Voyages and Explorations Some journeys make good stories. Some make a mark on history. The travels of John Smith, who captained a small wooden boat across the Chesapeake Bay in the early 1600s, did both. Smith began exploring the Chesapeake Bay and rivers near James Fort as soon as he arrived in 1607. He traveled many of the Bay's tributaries before embarking on two major voyages during the summer of 1608. His expedition ranged from the James River in Virginia, to portions of the Chesapeakl"s Eastern Shore, the Great Falls on the Potomac River, and the mouth of the Susquehanna River near present-day Havre de Grace, Maryland. Smith and his crew sailed from a struggling English outpost into a world they knew little about. They had no maps to guide them. T hey traveled an enormous web of waterways, where forests were as vast as the marsh. And it was not vacant terrain. Both voyages lasted about two months and took place in a sma ll open boat, equipped with one sail and oars for paddling. Fifteen men traveled on the first voyage, between June 2 and July 21. They sailed and rowed up the Eastern Shore as far as the Nanticoke River, crossed the Bay near Calvert Cliffs, and explored the Patapsco and Potomac rivers. After a short stop at James Fort, Smith launched the boat again, with thirteen men on board. Between July 24 and September 7, they explored the Rappahannock, Patuxent, and Susquehanna rivers. In all, Smith documented nearly 3,000 miles of the Bay and its rivers, as well the location oflndian communities, with remarkable precision. along the shoreline met Smith at nearly every turn. - -Today, you can follow Smith's travels on the Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail, learn the traditions of descendant American Indian tribes who still live here, and experience the richness of the Chesapeake and its rivers. By land and by water, you'll make discoveries of your own. A d ip tych sundial (which includes a compass) would have been among the instruments used for navigation in Smith's day. John Smith's map of the Chesapeake was remarkably accurate. Smith explored the landscape by boat and on foot. Indians acted as guides and shared information about areas that he did not reach in person. John Smith and Jamestown Adventures and Encounters John Smith arrived on the shores of the Chesapeake Bay in 1607, along with three ships carrying English colonists. It was a business \'enture, run by the Virginia Company of London, \Vhich instructed the men to find gold and a westward passage to the Pacific Ocean. During his voyages, Smith visited many Indian communities on both shores of the Bay and near the mouth of the Susquehanna River. Some approached with caution or hostility, but Smith generally restrained his men and the tension of first encounters often shifted into trade and feasting. He received valuable help from Indian guides and interpreters. A Wiccocomico man named Mosco traveled with them during parts of both voyages. The colonists built a fort on what is now the James River in Virginia, on the Bay's western shore. This outpost later became Jamestown, the first capital of Virginia. Smith was one of the fort's leaders and helped see the men through difficu lt times. H is efforts in building relationships with the Indians were essential to the survival of the colony. Smith made note of many places known today, including Calvert Cliffs - which he called "Rickards Cliffs"- and the great marsh of Tangier Sound. When a storm blew awuy their sail, the men took shelter on Bloodsworth Island, whi<:h Smith dubbed "Limbo Isle," to repair the boat and search for drinking water. American Indians Native people occupied the shores of the Chesapeake Bay and its rivers for thousands of years before Europeans arrived. The people were living in towns and dispersed settlements on both sides of the Bay when the Virginia colonists set up James Fort in 1607. Smith identified more than 200 native communities on his map, although many more existed than Smith encountered. The region included Indian groups of different sizes, each with their own identities. Some of these groups also paid tribute to a powerful leader, known as Powhatan, who lived at Werowocomoco on what is now the York River in Virginia. The Atlantic short-nosed sturgeon was plentiful when John Smith sailed across the Chesapeake Bay. The simple wooden boat that carried Smith and his crew had both oars and a sail. It was ideal for moving through shallow waters, but it was also an open boat, exposing the men to heat"and storms. At times the \\'aters they traveled were teeming with fish. Smith reported "fish lying so thick with their heads above the water as for want of nets (our barge driving amongst them) we attempted to catch them with a frying pan." The crew struggled in the summer heat, and many men fell ill. One man, Richard Featherstone, died along the Rappahannock River. His funeral took place at a site that Smith called Featherstone Bay. Smith himself was seriously injured during the first voyage. While he fished in the shallows near the Rappahannock River, the tail of a cownose ray pierced his wrist. He had a severe reaction to the venom, and the crew feared for his life. Later, when Smith recovered, he ate the ray for dinner and named the site Stingray Point. '\ I '-, ..... ' 'lb ...... OS, ~ ',J.:>"'·~,. ____ Plan Your Adventure ------------- -·-·--- .. -"-·------- The Zimmerman '~'?~ Center for Heritage ' ~2> Wrightsville, T>A \ \ "' ·..., ~ - --- ~ Wilmington• \Coopemov4 Trailcontinuesto NY ~inset map) \ '!'_ 14.6JJ1ilesJ I iJ \ '-2, Susquehanna River. v-9: There are countless things to see and do along the Water Trail ' , v~ ' '::S~ Smith trail. The water routes offer great !.! \ -::>-::> Chesa~ke House experiences for paddling and power boats, and \ ~ Travel f>leza I Susquehanna~' Port Deposit• Elkton,-. 1 there are lots of land-based sites to visit by car. State Park~\a • f "North ·'"' I '<-<= . ,/ East You'll find opportunities for boating, hiking, . )'~nter<;;i ,,t: &>~Perryv11Je Havre de Grace ViSJtor • / / Hav,r,e de Grace• / bicycling, and watching wildlife, as well as historic Havre de Grace Maritime Museum / °Che$apeake City 1 / ElkNeck settings with museums, living history exhibits, •Maryland House 1 1State Park Travel Plaza ~ ,. Since then, the trail has been extended beyond the and visitor centers. Many sites along the trail offer l,_,..t Cr,y.al Beach route of Smith's explorations to include the rivers several of these options in one setting or in a J ~/' and upper reaches of rivers that served as trade cluster of nearby sites. GunpovvderFalts ~ • oppatowne / 'AoontHarmon State Park ~ ,.,. l'fan:ai.on ...... , ,, .... -:::______ ~ SassafrdS River and transportation routes for Indian tribes who J ,'/ ~,-, -" .... , ~.aterTr.1il lived here before the English arrived. MarshyPoint,.. \ / Turners <i<'<lf9'.w..n The Captain John Smith Chesapeake National Historic Trail travels nearly 3,000 miles across the . C_hesapeake Bay and its rivers. The trail was officially launched in May 2007, as part of the 400th anniversary of the founding of Jamestown, Virginia. . /' 0 I . . . COt.C.VINGO DAM/,,. .,. . I / , .-0 ,. 'I °'i:. ' -.i.. _.. (;))....... ~ . I / ' r- ' 0 . ........ - _. Nature Center '4 I J Baltimore. FortMcHenly . Baltimore• -- National Monument VISltOr Centef. J>. ancl Hi<toric Shrine Pataf)KoValky~ lnnerHartx3,.y~~... .-StatePark~..... / ' , Oundalk \ ....., ..,,.--....._, 1 \ '-- ..... ...... __ _ . Bo.·.ie ~ ..,___": Wash.~ton, D • AnacostiaRiverwaterTrarl Trail information and Susquehanna River access facilities available ai.t~ Zimmerman Center for Heritage - -- -- - --,-----.....--- •'~. f I Alexandria• ' 0 ,., Upper Marlboro PatuxentRiverPark A. ~Jug Bay JugBayNaturalArea ,,.,._~ Wetland ,,~ -....._ 4 El° '-beth Hartwell Mason Neck N~I Wildlrfe Refu<Je and MiiSOl)Neck State Park Check out the map or use the /Uo ( '·' &Jr , :.:_;;r---"Adventure Planner" to design your Leesy/Yani'!.a ,/ I d' ad State Pan<&-~ , / • n 1an He itinerary. Explore your options on a 1/ variety of water trai Is, and read Prince William 4Jf. Smallwood ForestParl< / ~StatePark 1 excerpts from the official boater's Quantico,'/ ' I guide. This website also offers lots of ' I/ 1 information about Smith, American \ f : ~f I I Indians (past and present), and the t,, I \ Nanjemoy Chesapeake Bay of the early 1600s. Stafford" ' , (lei ff Sanctuary :1 <\,\Water Trail \ I National Refuge• \ Management Area ' ,, \ -~ Crows Nest ,. Natural At'ea ~ PreseNe -- ,.,. ', Great egret, taking flight ..---' ' - -- '.illl. CaJedon ~ I Greenwell State Park I • tr>Patf:. , ' - ...'-'),--,..,,.:.. Visit www.FindYourChesapeake.com \ \ I (_J-,, ~ to inspire your next adventure along the Smith trail and throughout the Chesapeake region. Read travel articles for trip ideas, enjoy stunning photography, and sear h for specific interests - like boating, campin~1 geocaching, maritime heritage, and more the places you 1 would like to visit. \, Port Royal .... -- '! .... \ Geo<geWashington Birthplace ...,, ___ I I \' 1 \, ___ 0 \ c· • St. Mary's 1ty Piney ~ A •.• , ', 0~ ...~A '.9.,,,{,> '0- ' ,... ',,Pt. Lookout.., 'i ', .Warsaw . Heathsvi i, ~ ' Bayport. ' Water View.' ',, .... \_ • Mattaponi River Water Trail '--, ' .... , i ~v ""- - , .,-_ r Pamunkey River Water Trail 'Trail continues to ltpn Gate, VA )ame.. Rr'•~r ',..._ (See_msetma.p) _ • ·~ · "- hlrl Call up a Water Trail ...... --~~ Richmond ... \ .. "smart buoy." v' J '--, ";.> -... White House•~~ ·~ \ -- (-) Pamunk'ey""' ) 1" I Indian MUS€Um ! I JO - - / I ) ...... ' -"1 t_ ,-, ~ (,/ '',(- ~,,.¥ _ A r1,.fc> f \ ', Westland ..., ',, ...... o • .... , --I / I 1 i;.. ,;; , \ ,' -----... I I / -~ i+ Museum~.'----------, Yorkto•.? Yorktown National Battlefield Historic , ,' I / I : ,I ts.' , __Ja~WRI\_ / \ r:-.=i Captain John S_mith .Chesapeake c=i National Historic Trail \ I l ' I \ '',, /j Living Museum ~ ', ~ 'y" -~ Mdriners' Museum Trail point of interest ~ Local water trail NOAA interpretive buoy o Public water access site ® ® National & state capitals Windsor Caslie Park & ~ '',, o 10 ;' ', ''\ /~- --~ ,.,, " / ,-~' (10 Miles 0 0 . ',Nan u 5 4 3 2 ~y .,.. ~~/ 1oKilometers ~ i A dramatic view of Great Faffs on the Potomac River ~ .---Hoffler <:reek V\lildife Preserve \ e o oo / t ,.,. ':s:>'f':,~"-" /,,,. ~ ,.,-. ; ~ 1l / ~J .~ .-.Miiiington . Potomac Virginia e')"naporis , ull(ler ...~\ ~ \ 't.' - ~ MMJ"'Jcus _ ... £astem Branch , ,PrxomokeCity :~ 11t 'JI Captain John Smith Jamestown" --· Chesapeake National Histonc Trai 60 Suffolk. - -,...,,. 1:.:=.:..,:~~ I { Atlantic I Ocean I ,j l, · Norlolk The John Smith trail extends beyond the route of Smith's explorations to include additional river routes used by 17th-century Indians. . Chesapeake . t, t fb ......\ Virginia" Beach ~ Great Bridge Loo: Parl: ·' ';"",,-.., ?-.\ ~ } ,,'°' ,., po ~rstl.andingStatePa<' .._ E1IZ.3berh River Trail 1,: /I (" . .,. . ._ r ', ' ~ ' /I / water Trail Parl< . f ea or ,~ ''\,,.\ Delaware S I d M¥1boro -"" A Lynnhaven River ' $Dover ,. Washington, DC® Virg inia I Suffolk '.., West t v \ JI;- Balti...,nf e '* ., •Elkton Elli<:onCitr" • I --------- /1! __..,__,, .f f I :& .columboa Wrightsville"> Fredericksburg• , " J ~. Norfolk Bennetts <:reek ~Shore of Virginia ~Na~criaH', ikJ rf~ Refuge '----...( ,.,...,_ .., _,..,,.,. ~ \ I I ..i. Fo(tMonroe ~ N;Jfional Monument ,,.,, • \ / Hampton. ,,, ... __, ......, Newport •....,Smithfield · News. ~ Visitor information 1 .......{ Virginia ' StateParl: I ...... ° 0 I Eastern S/>Of<? I ·:.a:« Tr.Jill Kiprope;ce I '-.... \ 0 o I Map legend : ' $Harrisburg Maryland ~ lffrq i'lla \ I \ Chippokes Plantation~ StatePark - 1 1 : \ Chesapeake Bay Watershed Cape Charles Historic District : I \I ~• Cape Charles I " '· o Hoq Island B•y / / 0 \SettfemenV,a. 0 I ,' n ...... _ ·- _, 0 Exmo•it• I \~'Y IH'fryr?-~ .... _>-'\, ~ -'00 \ I .' / 1 -. ... Cooperstown / New York J 0 ' / / I \ <C A. Onancock' <:&: •Onley Historic District ancJTown Wharf I 1 - - -1 0 '~·~~-~-~----------------~- I ~. a liQ/~,PointN~~!~a.!:.':. _ 'J l.__ - / f ,.J These yellow buoys ~ ~ ..., \ • \ o 1 I Boat on the water to mark c""".;J \, '\ ' e ~1 ~'---, ', MathewsCountyVrsitor& Mathe~' places on the John Smith ·~-\ ~1 c.ifq.?"-, , 1ntbrmati0nCenter1 \ · 1 Th l . t "" Pa-'- 'I.. 0/111)f;;•"'1 SYorkta-RiverPa. -'· a: _',,, Gloucester. o '"'61/ Mathews I tra1. ey a so transm1 ,b • .~ 11 11~.J'" -'r-') '~ 1& ~ t/ ~ ' \ Blueways chG recordings about that conserva~~~ ' \ / w~:erTrai I / _,. { C\ , ,.,. '.... ',,; (~;) ' \ .1',, - ...)",.' location 400 years ago. You CharlesCity / ... ~ 1 • & • n& ~I Lawrence Lewis. Jr. Al ' Chidcahominy '0 ' I can access buoy m1ormat1on c c1P •· ---~-...... Park;:!... rj Wildlife Management '~ ...... 1 f 0 at www.buoybay.noaa.gov '----- I /"-\ ~. A<ea ' ,, o \J I I , \ Chickahominy ......, GloucesterPoint I and by phone toll free at ' -" '\ ~ RNertrontParic ' , a.flead>Patk II , , <!ill' 877-BUOYBAY. ', jlamestown Watennen's , .aGloucester Point / I Temperanceville. ,,,.-- Delta'viire-6- --~ '"":ltavilleMaritirneMuseum~ St.n<11>1·Pt 1 \ I / , l ~~~17~ 0 0 \ lnt~tiveCulturalCenter lt ,jfi<J ... - - - - - ......... , --"" v·-'\ Pocomoke O"' I ~ 1 1 '.f • ".\•Wvest Point / 1 I I .~ Urbanna. ?..... , / Kilmarnock,. ___.. _.. - . ---·---·- Chincoteague• . Saxis // Tang.er Himxy~and __,_ / if 1 1 ' ..fb ~ ' , ________ ......... 1 \ I Hughlett Point Virginia ·---- ____ ,,,.. .....,- ........ ~..-: / .Tangier I Natural At'ea Preserve. ° \ a ,, • ,{ 0 Mar)'land ', '-..._... Sound ___,_f_ __ 1. StatePark ' -0, . ~ncaster 0 ·,, t- ~~---~~~~ • -~~~~~~~~~~--- (_\ I I I Bel1e 1s1e ..........~-?_, •' lisfield \ I f et.~ .. ·. . ::> ..~ * \ ~CE&. 2• °' ~---,; : -.1usa1n ~ 0:1: I 0 Ja11eslsland Stille Park I 1 \ Rf'f!d, F':shefrnen"s / Q../ I I -- Jf \\ 0 o •Pocomoke City ', ::i I \ ' 0 ..., t:: \ Snow Hill 0 ', .J' Center~Ewell '''---------\ \ ._ -. 0 t_,\ f\Ok /I 0 1 ro ' ,,... ,, l<l<lN Smith Island ~· .......,,, .l -o 0 I, . i 0 o . .,;i! KNlrJ<>:. ,., \ ~ ___ ....... / ;i; \ ~ \ fr·ie I !<land .,-s•''' ~\ Hoil.Jnd ::> , lsl.Jnd o0 l.O \ ~rth - ·\ I Princess Anne. 0 W"'i 6t<V : A<!.Y" PointLookout 1 State Park 1 ~ \\\ (..,) ', 0 I I 81o.x!s"·"'" I , • • -, Learning about dug-out canoes at Jamestown Settlement }--- G. I o ., il?a,. no •. I / < """""' I o > \ • / I \ Rappahannock River Valley 'YN. \ National Wildlife Refuge '~' , f . 0 : I .Point .Menokin I ( _ _,-11.__., , Salisbury \ ,,,,J ', o I ' , , ,..... _____________ ,, _,,/' _____ ,,,,j'' \\ Historic. Rappahannock River Valley National Wildlife Refuge Kinsaie. ... ,,, "I I ..-> 0 0 \-------... ',,, \1 \ \ ~StMary'sCiry 1 0 ,..,'.:;:§ Del~~~e- · - - - · - · Maryland 0 - ......,( ' - ... \o i9 • I I B/a<f(water National Wildlife Refuge 1 1 1 I I ~~ • ' Poto,.... ...... __ /----- .:.!/-"> i_,,' !.~ppahannock River Water Trail I 0 \ z ·---·- 0 ', Plantation ,.., ,-' ,, 0 \ -·-·r:·-·-. '\ \S.7' " o·.... ', StratfordHall~~ \.1 \ 0 \ Leonardtown I w~t..rl:~~ ~ ,., 1, Emperor's Landing Park,, .Taylors Island \ Cove Point \ r Nantitoke River Water Trail DiscoveryCente~~ ~-" \ ~\ laurel Vienna \~-' ~ 0 . ,,.6 K - • Sharptown Captain John Smith Nanticoke River \ ',, Cobb I 0 Colonial Beach. ' , Island. : ~ ' , St C/ertient'slsland /~Newt01Nl'leNed< ',,' .....J>qtomac River \ \ State Park I Museum -,,.P, /-\ -~ rn>P" r r'J<I , Myme Point Pall< .j, -,., Sol __0!!!9m. __ \ \,. \ \, Pr nt 0 Co,·•• ,ti:, Mir \\ ""9,Fredericksburg ,_ Hll I ' / " Seaford Museum ,1 catvert Oiffs Sotterley Plantation ~ I 0 ,,r ' ....o""' o o Z ,,_;i>'" Cambridg: .,• Sailwinds Visitor Center \ Flag Ponds "'-; Nature Park(~ .... j ~\ Seaford;~· 0 I I I '-, 0 l v Choptan m Jefferst>"n,fatterson ~State Park~ Park and ~m'~' i!E; ' Fed ralsburg 0 0xford 0 Long Beach , \ ,,,.' .. Bridgeville. 0 • <;>~;i \ \ . Easton ~*!Tiighman Island Battle Creek ,~ cypress Swamp \ \ ,.,... Bikers overlooking the Susquehanna River 0 0 ,,....., / Prince• Frederick -i.~\ ~+.• 0 \ .... 1 I Parkers Creek Watershed Nature PreselVJt,. 1 IV!i e. ' , ',,,; , Plum Point• I { . \ Phillips Wharf Environmental Center ' < .j. Patuxent River {, '\ -<- --o;.:;'ton0 0 St. Michae~... I I f I ,~n~---.~~M-anag - ~tA< _e_a_ - Romancoke Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum ~ I 0 I I \\ Audubon Center I l' Chesapeake Beach. \ \ Bay > ~Pickering Creek I \ ,, / \ Del-qware ,/' ~Island Natural Resource I I J I \, I Wtldlife~ ~ Fort IMlshlngton Park Recrea~~ . ,,- ~ PlsaltawayPark Occoquaf) Bay~ National Wildlife Refuge~, Deale. ..' Sanctuary Meikle Meadowood I I I I I I ,_e; I ' I • \ / ~ -" 'l Crass f5larid Tr,H 1 I \ l ~ .st~.~~~eE>pjora:.onCet>:er I Shs1~ '\ o,.~ / I Center Dover® 0 Cemrev!lle 0 ,.. Ea:;rem Neck TetrdPn \ ' \ittional VZ">ki fe Refuge Par>. ' , , __ _., Queenst<MTI J Ell~=~~ --.:.L~+f--.q. ,,;; • Ii AnacosfiaPark ~ t:, / I Occoquan. \ Tra HeaoQuar:et>D Annapois ~ "'1arr:itne •.1usetJm Chester River }!;. Water Trail 1 I Annapolis® ~"' ( I Sandy Point & State Park 4' I Rock Hall 0 , j, ••.,(J ('l.'t: < Parle Visit the trail website at www.SmithTrail.net '- I I I Fishing at Befle Isle State Park / \\ ...., __ ,,.,.\ ChesapeaM! & Ohio ~~Cana(N.•• -1 H;s-.t>rlcal P.v1 Riverbend p, f A ~eat...Falls N,,· inal Par< .. ..!· ~~ I I APotomac River Water Trarl --- /-\,, Chestertown. ,,./ 0 \ ...... :: Water Trail Use these resources to learn more about what the Smith trail offers. _,-- JI. Monocacy River "-. / r ' ,\U A v 1 / / , ii State Park - 0 ,/ ({! North Point I / 0 \ / I / / 1 \ I> Creek Parle / \ I I ' ~~