Black Canyon of the Gunnison

National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Cutting through Rock with Water … Weather … and Time GUNNISON RIVER—NPS / MURRAY SHOEMAKER American dipper Cinclus mexicanus Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park Colorado © MICK THOMPSON The roaring of the river reverberated and echoed like demons howling over their prey. Abraham Lincoln Fellows, 1901 Song of the Gunnison Black Canyon’s natural music can be percussive, gentle, or raucous. Over the rim at Gunnison Point, where you are mindful of loose rock that could send you sliding into the blackness, a muffled sound reaches up to you. You listen, hard. Is that the wind or the river 1,800 feet (548 m) below you? Close your eyes, and the sound gently envelops you. Open them, and a violet-green swallow passes but adds no sound, or did it? A white-throated swift soars within arm’s reach, riding a thermal, its wings adding the slightest bit of flutter to the river’s distant rush. A wind gust hits your cheek. From below comes the sound of a peregrine falcon perched beneath a sheltering rock. A Powerful Partnership John W. Gunnison, an explorer and engineer seeking a Pacific railroad passage in the 1850s, judged Black Canyon impenetrable and difficult to cross. He could not have known that the river had hewn the canyon walls from a dome of extremely resistant crystalline rock nearly two billion years old. A geological event now known as the Gunnison Uplift had raised the canyon’s rock from deep in Earth’s basement. You sleep that night beneath the Milky Way, frothy with stars, as you’ve never seen it before. In the morning, despite being warned of the steep grade, poison ivy, and heat, you hike to the river. In time the roar builds to a crescendo, until it cancels out all other sounds. You look warily at the 10-foot (3 m) boulders casually scattered about. Any minute one could come crashing down. Imagine the power and the sharp crack as rock meets rock. Vertical Views Black Canyon has some of the darkest skies over the United States. The skies crown a sliver of habitat for nocturnal animals and plants that need the darkness to survive. Pinyon-juniper and Gambel oak woodlands grow near the canyon rims and on the gentler slopes, while lone trees occupy crevices and narrow gorges. Some pinyon and juniper trees are centuries old. Dark spires of Douglas-fir rise from inner canyon ridges. In fall aspen trees glow yellow. Mosses and ferns attach to cool, shaded, moist walls. Box elders cling defiantly to river banks, while most plants struggle at the bottom. You’ll mainly find rocks there, as explorer Abraham Lincoln Fellows did in 1901: “Gigantic boulders had fallen in from the cliffs, the water flowing 100 feet [30 m] or more beneath these boulders … smooth and polished to such an extent that it was only with the greatest difficulty they could be surmounted.” Night sky © PHILIP SCHEETZ Utah Juniper Juniperus osteosperma Gunnison sage-grouse Pinyon-juniper woodland Centrocercus minimus JEANNIE STAFFORD / USFWS Expanses of silver-blue sagebrush, grasses, and forbs at the North Rim support the Gunnison sage-grouse, a threatened species. Bobcats, mountain lions, and black bears are among the mammals that roam both rims. Bighorn sheep delicately balance on the inner canyon’s ledges. American dippers share the water with beavers and river otters. Nocturnal ringtails may nestle among boulders at the canyon bottom. Below: The Painted Wall from Cedar Point, South Rim. Veins of pink, igneous pegmatite run horizontally through canyon walls of blue-black, metamorphic gneiss. Peregrine falcon Falco peregrinus © GREG GARD Black Canyon of the Gunnison Time is the Gunnison River’s unseen but equal partner. Two million years ago, its course determined by the location of high mountain ranges (below), the river began cutting through the uplift’s core with rocks, gravel, and sediment. Empowered by floodwaters, it gained speed through a steep descent from the surrounding mountains. It wielded huge boulders that scoured trees and chiseled the canyon bottom— which had not yet been reached. Sagebrush Mule deer Odocoileus hemionus © JAO VAN DE LAGEMAAT Gambel oak Quercus gambelii Gambel oak woodland ALL IMAGES—NPS UNLESS OTHERWISE CREDITED Douglas-fir Pseudotsuga menziesii Pegmatite Inner canyon © JAO VAN DE LAGEMAAT Gneiss Ringtail Bassariscus astutus © DAVE WELLING White-throated swift Aeronautes saxatalis © DOUG SHURMAN Along the river © JACK BAUER Violet-green swallow Tachycineta thalassina © MARK WYNJA Granite Painted Wall 2,250 ft (686 m) The Narrows 40 ft (12 m) Chasm View 1,100 ft (335 m) Schist Steep, Deep, and Narrow Visiting Black Canyon of the Gunnison Plan Your Visit Start at the South Rim Visitor Center for information, exhibits, publications, wilderness permits, and Junior Ranger booklets. Check the website for hours. Accommodations The park has two campgrounds for overnight accommodations. Sites at North Rim Campground (open seasonally) are first-come, first served. Most sites at South Rim Campground (open year-round) can be reserved at www.recreation.gov. East Portal Campground (closed in winter) is part of Curecanti National Recreation Area, www.nps.gov/cure. Services and lodging are in nearby towns. Park Roads In winter South Rim Road beyond Gunnison Point is closed to vehicles, usually reopening in mid-April. Roads closed for snow remain open for cross-country skiing and snowshoeing. Fishing, Hunting, and Firearms A Colorado fishing license is required. Colorado Gold Medal Waters principles apply. Hunting is prohibited. For firearms regulations ask a ranger or check the park website. East Portal Road (paved; closed in winter) leads to the Gunnison River and Curecanti National Recreation Area. It has 16-percent grades and hairpin curves. Vehicles over 22 feet (6.7 m), including trailers, are prohibited. Accessibility We strive to make facilities, services, and programs accessible to all. For information go to a visitor center, ask a ranger, call, or check the website. Kayaking and Rafting The Gunnison River is for experienced kayakers. Rafting in the park is strongly discouraged. For an intermediate run through the lower canyon rafters can put in at Chukar Trail in Gunnison Gorge National Conservation Area; for information contact the Bureau of Land Management or visit blm.gov/ programs/national-conservation-lands/ colorado/gunnison-gorge-nca. Pleasant Park is located in the northwestern tip of the park north of the Gunnison River. Safety Water is NOT AVAILABLE in the park November through April. • Many places have no guardrails. Loose rock makes canyon rim edges hazardous. Supervise children closely. Stay on designated trails. • Never throw anything from the rim into the canyon. Even a small stone can be fatal to someone below. • The canyon rim is 8,000 feet (2,439 m) above sea level. Watch for signs of elevation sickness. Drink plenty of water, use sun protection, and pace yourself. • Bears are present. Store food properly. Never approach or feed wildlife. Emergencies call 911 Rock climbing Scaling Black Canyon’s near-vertical walls is for experienced climbers only. Consult guidebooks, online sources, and park rangers for information and route finding. Regulations Federal laws protect all natural and cultural features in the park. • The inner canyon is designated wilderness. You must have a permit for all wilderness activities including climbing, hiking, and kayaking. • Leashed pets are allowed at most overlooks. Pets are prohibited on most trails and in the inner canyon and wilderness. • Build campfires only in campground grates. Never leave a campfire unattended. Firewood is not available at the park; gathering it is prohibited. In Delta, U S Highway 50 intersects with Colorado route 92, which runs east near the Conservation Area to Hotchkiss and then south toward the park, intersecting again with U S Highway 50. U S Highway 50 runs south to Montrose, where it runs east along the park and intersects with Colorado route 135 to the north and Colorado route 114 to the south. The North Rim is far from the highway, and services are limited. No bridge spans Black Canyon. To drive from one side to the other, allow 2 to 3 hours. U S Highway 550 runs southeast from Montrose, intersecting with Colorado route 62 in Ridgway. Colorado route 149 intersects with U S Highway 50 at the eastern end of the recreation area. More Information Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park 102 Elk Creek Gunnison, CO 81230 970-641-2337 www.nps.gov/blca npf_black.pdf Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park is one of over 400 parks in the National Park System. Learn more about national parks and programs at www.nps.gov. Use the official NPS App to guide your visit; select “save this park” to use it offline. Cell service in the park is not reliable. North Rim Getting Here The park is 250 miles (402 km) southwest of Denver. The South Rim is 15 miles (24 km) east of Montrose via US 50 and CO 347. Lat., long.: 38.55056, -107.68667 1 8/26/22 You'll find more solitude and self-reliant conditions here. Camp in one of the few sites at North Rim Campground. Take the easy Chasm View Nature Trail through pinyon-juniper woodland. Enjoy views of the Painted Wall. Longer hikes like Deadhorse Trail pass through thickets of serviceberry and Gambel oak. Rocky outcrops offer vistas of the primeval canyon and its fast-moving river. 12:33 PM Join the park community. www.nationalparks.org IGPO:2023—423-201/83107 Last updated 2023 The North Rim is 11 miles (18 km) south of Crawford via CO 92 and Black Canyon Road. Lat., long.: 38.58702, -107.68667 © CHRIS NOBLE Black Canyon Road runs southwest into the park into Mesa Inclinado and the North Rim roads, which are closed to vehicles in winter. Map of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park North Vista Trail runs from several miles northwest of Exclamation Point to Exclamation Point and east to North Rim Ranger Station. The ranger station has a self-guiding trail and a campground nearby. Red Rock Canyon is located south of the Gunnison River. Exclamation Point, located northeast of Serpent Point, has an elevation of 7,702 feet (2,348 meters). Gunnison River runs through and bisects the park. Painted Wall View is located northeast of Cedar Point along South Rim Road. Serpent Point has an elevation of 7,922 feet (2,415 meters). Cedar Point is located northeast of Dragon Point along South Rim Road and has a self-guiding trail. Dragon Point is located northeast of Sunset View along South Rim Road. Sunset View is located northeast of High Point along South Rim Road and has restrooms, wheelchair access, and a picnic area. Warner Point has a self-guiding trail. NPS / MICHAEL QUINN Chasm View has a self-guiding trail. Chasm View is located east of Painted Wall View along South Rim Road and has wheelchair access. The Narrows View, Balanced Rock View, Big Island View, and Island Peaks View Devils Lookout is located are located along southeast of Chasm View Mesa Inclinado. Big along South Rim Road Island has an and has a self-guiding elevation of 7,915 trail. Rock Point is located feet (2,413 meters). southeast of Devils Lookout along South Rim Road and has a selfguiding trail. Cross Fissures View is located southeast of Rock Point along South Rim Road. The Gunnison River flows along the bottom of the canyon. Uplands Trail is a moderate trail with a length of 2 miles (3.2 kilometers). Rim Rock Trail is a moderate trail with a length of 1 mile (1.6 kilometers). Hiking from the South Rim to the river requires a permit (limited quantity available). Expect a very steep, difficult hike with no trails, only unmarked routes. Start early and plan for sudden changes in weather. Be alert for poison ivy, ticks, porcupine, mule deer, and bears (keep your distance). Rock squirrels and beavers may be at the canyon bottom. This International Dark Sky Park offers astronomy programs seasonally. Check the website for opportunities to observe the stars, galaxies, and planets. Rangers offer interpretive programs year-round. See schedule at visitor center or website. Wilderness Congress has protected over 17,000 acres of Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park as wilderness under the 1964 Wilderness Act. For information about the National Wilderness Preservation System visit www.wilderness.net. Island Peaks has an elevation of 7,631 feet (2,326 meters). Gunnison Point is located southeast of Pulpit Rock Overlook along South Rim Road. Oak Flat Loop Trail, Uplands Trail, and Rim Rock Trail are located near Gunnison Point along South Rim Road and have self-guiding trails. Jones Summit is located west of Entrance Station and has an elevation of 8,266 feet (2,519 meters). Entrance Station is located southwest of South Rim Campground along Colorado route 347 near East Portal Road. East Portal is part of Curecanti National Recreation Area, an adjacent unit comanaged with Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park. East Portal Road carried equipment and crews that built the Gunnison Tunnel from 1905 to 1909. Outdoor exhibits tell more of the story. Pets are prohibited in the wilderness and allowed (leashed) elsewhere. South Rim South Rim Visitor Center has restrooms, a ranger station, and wheelchair access. Tomichi Point is located south of Gunnison Point and has wheelchair access and restrooms. Hike a primitive trail that follows the Gunnison River as it threads through cliffs and rocks. Picnic beneath a shelter as you gaze at rock spires. Fish for trout (license required). Watch an American dipper repeatedly dive into icy waters. Look for great blue herons, eagles, and otters that might be along the river. South Rim Campground is located south of Tomichi Point and has an elevation of 8,320 feet (2,536 meters). It has a picnic area, wheelchair access, amphitheater, and astronomy programs. Vehicles longer than 22 feet (6.7 meters) are prohibited on East Portal Road. East Portal Road runs east to East Portal. East Portal Road is closed to vehicles in winter from Entrance Station to East Portal. Primitive Trail is located north of East Portal. East Portal East Portal is located at the southeastern tip of the park and has an elevation of 6,547 feet (1,996 meters) and a picnic area and campground. Gunnison Tunnel runs southwest from East Portal. NPS East Portal Deadhorse Trail has horseback riding and runs toward Deadhorse Gultch. Its trailhead is at Kneeling Camel View. Restrooms are nearby. South Rim Road from High Pulpit Rock Overlook is located Point to Gunnison Point is southeast of Cross Fissures View closed to vehicles in winter. along South Rim Road and has wheelchair access, restrooms, and a picnic area. South Rim Oak Flat Loop Trail is a difficult selfguiding trail with a length of 2 miles (3.2 kilometers). NPS Located at the western tip of South Rim Road, High Point (no fires) has an elevation of 8,289 feet (2,523 meters) and a picnic area, restrooms, and wheelchair access. North Rim Gunnison Diversion Dam is located east of East Portal. East Portal Road has a dead end on its southeastern tip toward Crystal Reservoir. © CHRIS NOBLE