Brochure

Bighorn Canyon National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior National Recreation Area Montana / Wyoming Bighorn Canyon at twilight from the Sullivans Knob trail © DIANE DURANT At first glance, time seems to have stopped at Bighorn Can­­­yon. The lake and steep-sided canyons provide a peaceful setting for those seeking a break from the daily routine. The focus of the area is the 71-mile-long Bighorn Lake, created by Yellowtail Dam near Fort Smith, Montana. Dedi­ca­ted in 1968, the dam provides electric power and water for irrigation, flood control, and recreational opportunities. Boating, water­skiing, fishing, swimming, and sightseeing are the main attractions. While you enjoy the play of light and shadow on rock and water, contemplate the changes that the land and the life upon it have undergone. Time and water are keys to the canyon, where the land has been shaped by the elements since upheavals of the Earth’s crust formed the Pryor and Bighorn mountains millions of years ago. For 15 miles upstream from the dam, the lake bisects a massive, arching anticline, exposing fossils that tell of successive times when this land was submerged under a shallow sea, when it was a tropical marsh, and when its conifer forests were inhabited by dinosaurs. Humans arrived here over 10,000 years ago, living as hunters and gatherers. In modern times people have further altered the land. Bighorn sheep © VIRGINIA DUBOWY The park is more than just the lake. It’s a land where wild­ flowers bloom in spring and is an ecosystem over 200 species of birds call home. It is a story of early life forms adapting to a harsh environment and humans’ search for energy. A Challenging Land North American peoples have traveled and made their living along rivers and streams for over 40,000 years. But the Bighorn River was too treacherous and too steep-walled. People lived near the Bighorn but avoided navigating it until after the dam was constructed. This broken land also challenged the ingenuity of early residents, forcing them to devise unusual strategies of survival. American Indian hunt­ers drove herds of animals into game traps and gathered wild roots and seeds to balance their meat diet. They made clothes of skins, baskets and sandals of plant fibers, and tools of stone, bone, and wood. The many caves of the Bighorn area provided seasonal shelters and storage areas for the Indians and early traders and trappers. Apsáalooke means “people of the largebeaked bird” to the Crow people. Their reservation surrounds most of Bighorn Canyon. Originally a farming people, the Crow split off from the Hidatsa tribe over 200 years ago. They became a renowned hunting people, described by a participant on the Lewis and Clark Expedition as “the finest horsemen in the world.” working three miles north of Fort C.F. Smith, fought for eight hours until rescued by the fort’s troops on August 1, 1867. After 1800, explorers, traders, and trappers found their way up the Big­horn River. Charles Lar­oc­que met the Crow at the mouth of the Bighorn in 1805; Captain William Clark traveled through a year later. Jim Bridger claimed to have floated through the canyon on a raft. Later fur traders packed goods overland on the Bad Pass Trail, avoiding the river’s dangers. After the Civil War, cattle ranching be­came a way of Iife. Among the huge open-range cattle ranches was the Ma­son-Lovell (the ML) in northern Wyoming; some of those buildings remain. Dude ranching, reflected in the remains of Hillsboro, was popular in the early 1900s. During the Civil War era, many people crossed the Bighorn River as they took the Bozeman Trail into western Montana. Open from 1864 to 1868, the trail was bitterly op­posed by the Lakota (Sioux) and Northern Cheyenne tribes. The federal govern­ment closed the trail in 1868 after the Fort Laramie Treaty. Fort C.F. Smith, today on private land, guarded the trail as an outpost. A stone monument commemorates the Hayfield Fight, a desperate but successful defense against Lakota and Northern Chey­enne warriors. In this skirmish a party of soldiers and civilian hay cutters, The Crow made the transition from huntergatherers to ranchers in one generation. In 1904, after 12 years of labor, they completed an irrigation system and opened 35,000 acres of land to irrigated farming. Water was diverted into the Big­horn Canal by a 416-foot diversion dam, moving 720 cubic feet of water per second. Near After­bay Camp­ground is Big­horn Canal Headgate, a reminder of this human response to the challenge of the land. Congress established Bighorn Can­yon National Recreation Area in 1966 to provide enjoyment for visitors today and to protect the park for future generations. Land and Life at Bighorn Recreation Fifteen hiking trails and 71 miles of lake are just the beginning of the recreational opportunities offered here. Slide your kayak onto the lake as the sun rises to meet water as clear as glass. Feel the water lap against your boat in the evening, as canyon walls begin to block out the sun. Glimpse a peregrine falcon rising from the canyon as you hike to the rim. Pryor Mountain Wild Horse Range In 1968 this area was established to provide a well-maintained sanctuary for wild horses. The herd size of about 120–140 is man­aged by the Bureau of Land Man­agement, National Park Service, and US Forest Service. © CARRIE SAPP © JEAN MARSHALL Bighorn Wildlife The wildlife of the Big­ horn Canyon country is as varied as the land, which can be divided into four climate or vegetative zones. In the south is desert shrub­­­ land inhabited by wild horses, snakes, and small rodents. Midway is juniper woodland with coyotes, deer, bighorn sheep, woodrats, beavers, and porcupines. Along the flanks of the canyon is pine-and-fir woodland with mountain lions, bear, elk, and mule deer. In the north is short­­grass prairie, once home to herds of bison. Many of the smaller animals, like cottontails, skunks, coyotes, and rattlesnakes, are seen often throughout the park. Over 200 species of birds, including many kinds of waterfowl, have been seen here. Yellowtail Dam   The dam honors Ro­bert Yellowtail, former Crow tribal chair and reservation superintendent. This 525 feet high, arch-type dam creates one of the largest re­servoirs on the Missouri River tributary system. NPS / STEVE GRISHAM Each plant and animal species is adapted to the particular conditions of temperature, moisture, and terrain within one or more of the park’s four primary zones. Yellowtail Wildlife Habitat Management Area Riparian, cottonwood forest, shrubland, and wetlands provide habitat for white-tailed deer, bald eagles, pelicans, heron, waterfowl, wild turkeys, and other species. The area is managed by the Wyo­ming Game and Fish Department through agreements with the National Park Service, Bureau of Land Management, and Bureau of Reclamation. © VIRGINIA DUBOWY © JONATHAN WELDE Ewing-Snell Ranch © CRYSTAL ANN MASON-LOVELL RANCH   A.L. Mason and H.C. Lovell built a cattle ranch headquarters here in 1883. Cattle roamed the Bighorn Basin in a classic openrange op­era­tion. LOCKHART RANCH   Reporter, editor, and author Caroline Lockhart began ranching at age 56. Well-preserved buildings give a feel for ranch life. The trail is a 0.5-mile roundtrip. HILLSBORO  A 1.0-mile roundtrip trail leads to the site of Gros­venor William Barry’s Cedarvale Guest Ranch and the 1915–45 Hillsboro post office. EWING-SNELL RANCH   This site was in use for nearly 100 years. Bighorn Mountains © GREG L. JONES Two Eagles Interpretive Trail TWO EAGLES  Bighorn Canyon has been home to many generations of people. Tipi rings, or stone circles, and cairns are some of the more visible reminders of the people who occupied the area. The number and density of the tipi rings on Bighorn Canyon’s landscape are a Devil Canyon © DAVID HUNTER strong indication that people used the area domestically for thousands of years. See over 25 of these tipi rings and a buffalo jump along this 0.25mile interpretive trail. Before the arrival of the horse, life changed little here for thousands of years. Small family groups wintered in caves near the canyon bottoms. In early spring they moved out of the canyon bottoms in search of plants and small animals, and in summer they moved to the highlands in search of game and summermaturing plants. Large © DAVID HUNTER groups gathered in fall for a communal bison hunt. DEVIL CANYON OVERLOOK   Here, the canyon crosscuts the gray limestone of the Devil Canyon Anticline, a 1,000-foot-high segment of the fault blocks that make up the Pryor Mountains. Explore Bighorn Canyon Plan Your Visit Getting Here  No road connects the park’s north and south ends directly. To get to the park’s south end, take US 310 from Bil­lings or US 14A from Sheridan. To reach the north end, take MT 313 from Hardin. To visit both, use the map at left to choose a route. You can rent cars in nearby communities, but no public transportation serves the park. Sched­uled airlines serve Cody and Bil­lings. Unattended aircraft landing strips are at Fort Smith and Cowley. Contact the park in advance to plan your visit, especially if you are bringing a group. BOATING TIPS Get the park’s boating brochure and map before you head for the water; they show boat ramps, boating facilities, navigational markers, and camp­ grounds for Big­horn Lake. Read and heed regulations for boating safety on the lake. What to See and Do Films and exhibits at both the Cal S. Taggart Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center and Yellowtail Dam Visitor Center highlight park activities, natural features, and history. Boating enthusiasts will find a marina, snack bar, camp store, and boat ramp at Horseshoe Bend and Ok-A-Beh. Ramps are also at Afterbay Dam and Barry’s Landing. In summer all watercraft must go through the Aquatic Invasive Species (AIS) Stations. If mechanical problems develop while you are on the lake, stay with your boat; hail other boaters and ask them to notify a ranger. Carry both day and night signaling de­vices. Do not try to climb the lake’s steep canyon walls. Camping is restricted to designated sites in developed areas. It is also allowed in the backcountry and below the highwater mark along Bighorn Lake. Fire restrictions during periods of high fire danger may close certain areas to camping. Check with a ranger for the restrictions on fires and backcountry camping. Eastern tiger swallowtails © JEAN MARSHALL Facilities and Services   Be sure to stop at the Cal S. Taggart Bighorn Canyon Visitor Center at Lovell (open daily) or the Yellowtail Dam Visitor Center near Fort Smith (open seasonally). Hotels, motels, service stations, res­tau­rants, and grocery and sporting goods stores are in Lovell and Hardin. At the park’s north end, Fort Smith has fishing outfitters but very limited grocery services. Accessibility  We strive to make our facilities, services, and programs accessible to all. For information go to a visitor center, ask a ranger, call, or check our website. Service animals are welcome in the park. Private Property   The Crow Indians own prop­erty within the boundary of the na­ tional rec­reation area. Tri­bal lands are closed to the public. Check with a park rang­er for more information. More Information   Bighorn Can­yon National Recreation Area PO Box 7458 Fort Smith, MT 59035 and 20 Hwy. 14A East Lovell, WY 82431 307-548-5406 www.nps.gov/bica Bighorn Canyon National Recreation Area is one of over 400 parks in the National Park Sys­tem. Learn more at www.nps.gov. IGPO: 2019—407-308/82451 Last updated 2019 BUOY MARKERS: 5 MPH Diver’s Flag Swimming Area Warning Buoy Control Buoy Image: BICA_13a_Symbol.eps Publication: BIGHORN CANYON NATION Hiking is available in the national recreation Regulations and Safety  Check the park webSubject: Warning Buoy, Pets Symbol area and in nearby forests. Ask at the visitor site for firearms regulations. must be on centers for more information. a leash. Do not dispose trash or waste into Credit: National ParkofService/Cartographic area waters; all vessels must have a waste Location: Digitala first-aid imagekit as a exsists onl Hunting is allowed in designated areas in Storage receptacle on board. Carry accordance with state laws. Trapping is precaution against poisonous snakebites. Format: digitlal prohibited. Restrictions: No restrictions on other Federal law protects all plants, animals, nat- uses Fishing in Montana or Wyoming requires the appropriate state fishing license. The Bighorn River provides excellent brown and rainbow trout fishing. Sauger, ling, and smallmouth bass abound in Bighorn Lake. The most popular fish is the walleye, a gourmet’s delight. Try winter ice fishing around Horseshoe Bend. ural and cultural features, and archeological sites. Collecting is prohibited.