Bandelier

Bandelier Bandelier National Monument New Mexico National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior The village of Tyuonyi in Frijoles Canyon at the height of its development in the late 1400s. NPS / LOUIS S. GLANZMAN Ancestral Pueblo People Pottery-making has been part of Pueblo culture since before 400 CE (Common Era). Some pottery was plain, some patterned with indentations, and some decorated with designs that may have symbolized features of the Pueblo world. The Pueblo people have lived in the Southwest for many centuries. Archeologists think they are descended from groups of hunters and gatherers who came into the region over 10,000 years ago. The Pueblo people themselves say they have always been here. Ancestral Pueblo people lived in parts of what are now New Mexico, Arizona, Colorado, and Utah. Groups varied but shared many traits such as farming, weaving, and potterymaking (illustration at left). Their architecture and pottery reflect the peoples’ diversity over time and from place to place. Early archeologists, studying the old dwellings for clues about their residents, adopted the Navajo term “Anasazi” to refer to the ancestors of Pueblo people before the coming of the Spanish. Many Pueblo people today consider the term disrespectful, so now “Ancestral Pueblo people” is used. made winter blankets ingeniously woven of yucca-fiber string twisted with turkey feathers or strips of rabbit skin. They fashioned tools, including a wide variety of axes, mauls, and knives, from animal bones, wood, and local stones such as obsidian and basalt. They acquired other items, including shells, turquoise, and parrots, through trade networks that ranged as far as central Mexico and Baja California. Archeological surveys show at least 3,000 sites in Bandelier, but not all were inhabited at the same time. For generations these people lived in small, scattered settlements of perhaps one or two families each. As the population grew, people began coming together in larger groups, and, by the mid-1200s, villages often included as many as 40 rooms. No translatable records existed before the Spanish arrived, but in their oral traditions today, Pueblo people remember the places where their ancestors lived. The Pueblos of Cochiti, San Felipe, Santo Domingo, San Ildefonso, Santa Clara, and Zuni have declared their strong ties to Bandelier. Representatives from these Pueblos work closely with park staff to make decisions affecting their ancestral homelands. All of the Pueblos have great regard for the dwellings in Bandelier and ask you to treat the area with respect and care. Ancestral Pueblo people in and around Bandelier, like Pueblo ancestors elsewhere, were farmers who grew maize (corn), beans, and squash. They supplemented their diet with native plants and by hunting deer, rabbits, other mammals, and birds. Cotton was cultivated and woven into garments. The people In the following 250 years, fewer and larger villages were established, with some exceeding 400 rooms. In Bandelier the villages of Tyuonyi (QU-weh-nee) and Tsankawi (SAN-kuh-wee) and their adjacent cavates (human-excavated caves) exemplify this latest period. By the mid-1500s the people who lived there Spiritually, our ancestors still live here at Bandelier. You see reminders of their presence here—their homes, their kivas, and their petroglyphs. As you walk in their footsteps, value the earth beneath you and show everything the same respect we do when we re-visit this sacred place.—Affiliated Pueblo Committee had moved on, settling into new homes in villages along the Rio Grande. Soon afterward, the Spanish colonized New Mexico, bringing immense change to the indigenous people of the Southwest. NPS / LOUIS S. GLANZMAN Men from Cochiti Pueblo guided Bandelier to their ancestral homes in Frijoles Canyon in 1880. Its sheer cliffs, year-round stream, and distinctive cave-room ar­chitecture captured his Adolph F. A. Bandelier was born in Switzerland in 1840 and grew up in Illi­nois. He was obligated to work in his father’s bus­inesses but read, corres­ponded, and published in anthropology. In 1880 he took up the southwest fieldwork that became his life’s passion. NPS Long House is an 800-foot stretch of ad­joining, multistoried stone homes with hand-carved caves as back rooms. It may be what inspired Adolph Bandelier’s exclamation, “The grandest thing I ever saw.” The Cultural Demonstration Program supports Pueblos’ efforts to maintain and share time-honored cultural activities, including traditional dances—like this one by members of Zuni Pueblo. NPS Bandelier’s pioneering work is now relatively unknown to the public, but it established the foundation for much of modern southwestern ar­cheology. Dr. Ed­gar Lee Hewett, a prominent southwestern ar­cheologist, directed several excavations in Frijoles Canyon in the early 1900s. He saw the need to preserve these ancestral Pueblo sites and was instrumental in getting Bande­lier National Monument established in 1916. NPS imagination. In 1890 he made the canyon and dwellings the scene of his novel, The Delight Makers, depicting Pueb­lo life in pre-Spanish times. Bandelier left New Mexico in 1892 and went on to studies in Peru and Bolivia. In his seventies, he went to Seville, Spain, to study early Spanish records of the Americas. He died there in 1914. NPS Forty-year-old, self-taught anthropologist and historian Adolph F. A. Bandelier came to New Mexico Territory in 1880, sponsored by the Archeological Institute of America. His ambitious goal was to trace the social organization, customs, and movements of southwestern and Mexican peoples. He traveled and studied throughout the re­gion, crossing can­yons and mesas, living and working among many American Indian groups, and delving into document archives. Looking back on his first 18 months in the field, Bandelier tallied visits to 166 archeological sites in New Mexico, Arizona, and Mexico. “I am dirty, ragged, and sunburnt, but of best cheer,” he said. “My life’s work has at last begun.” MUSEUM OF NEW MEXICO “The Grandest Thing I Ever Saw” Located 140 feet above the floor of Frijoles Canyon, the Alcove House was once home to approximately 25 Ancestral Pueblo people. Inside the alcove today are the viga holes and niches of former homes and this reconstructed kiva. Another traditional cultural activity in the modern Pueblos is making and painting pottery. These intricate skills are often passed from parents (or grandparents) to their children. This learning process allows the Pueblos to maintain important touchstones of the past in a quickly changing modern world. Exploring Bandelier Warning: Do not use this map for backcountry travel. Use a current topographic map for wilderness hikes. The visitor center is located on the east side of the park and accessible via Highway 4. Cerro Grande Route runs south from Cerro Grande, which has an elevation of 10,199 feet/3,109 meters. The guard station is north of the park adjacent to the Department of Energy Los Alamos National Laboratory. All vehicles entering Department of Energy (D O E) property on Highway 501 are required to stop. Drivers must show picture ID, and vehicles may be selected for random inspection. Learn more at www.lanl.gov/resources/security-perimeter.php. The northwest area of the park includes Alamo Boundary Trail, Cerro Grande Route, Upper Frijoles Canyon Overlook Trail, and Sawyer Mesa Trail. Pajarito Road is closed to the public. On West Jemez Road, access may be restricted. East Jemez Road is a truck route. Route 289 is a four-wheel-drive road. The area between the park boundary and the gate at Highway 4 is closed in winter. Ponderosa Trail is located along Highway 4 to the east of Highway 501. The Ponderosa Group Campground, where The Apache Spring Trail, near the reservations are required, Jemez Mountains, runs west from has an elevation of 7,580 Highway 4, then south and east into feet/2,310 meters. South Frijoles Trail near Cañon de los Frijolesof Ponderosa Trail is (Frijoles Canyon), which runs Upper Crossing, with an southeast to the visitor center. elevation of 7,020 feet/2,140 meters. Tsankawi Section Bandelier National Monument is located northeast of the park between Highways 501 and 4. White Rock Visitor Center and overlook are located south of Tsankawi Section Bandelier National Monument. East of Ponderosa Trail along Highway 4 is the entrance to Burnt Mesa Trail, which runs southeast and parallel to the highway. Southeast of Burnt Mesa Trail and west of the park entrance station is Juniper Campground, with an elevation of 6,600 feet/2,012 meters. Horse Mesa Trail connects Upper Alamo Trail and Upper Capulin Trail. Upper Alamo Trail runs southeast to Hondo Trail and Tierra Media Trail. About Your Visit The Monument Today There was no road into Frijoles Canyon until the mid-1930s when the Civilian Conservation Corps (CCC) built one, along with trails, the visitor center, and a lodge. The increasing number of visitors has changed the way many buildings are used, but the well-crafted Pueblo revival-style structures and CCC trails still serve the park. South of Frijoles Trail is Frijoles Rim Trail, which connects with the Upper Alamo Trail to the west and MidAlamo Trail, visitor center, and Burro Trail to the southeast. Upper Capulin Trail connects to the The Yapashi house is southwest with Turkey located along Upper Spring Trail. Boundary Alamo Trail between Peak Trail connects with Hondo Trail and Tierra Turkey Spring Trail. Media Trail. Tierra Media Trail connects at the Upper Capulin Trail runs southwestern point of southeast and connects Burro Trail. with Hondo Trail and Lower Capulin Trail. Help Preserve This Special Place Managing Bandelier presents many challenges, and it is a job for more than just park staff. When visiting, follow Leave No Trace practices by packing out what you packed in. Learn, understand, and follow the rules and regulations to help ensure Bandelier is here for you and for future generations to experience and enjoy. Visit these Ancestral Pueblo archeological sites with respect and wonder. Learn about the cultural and natural features of Bandelier and what you can do to help protect them. East of Burro Trail, which is located south of the visitor center, are Upper and Lower Frijoles Falls. Painted Cave house is located along Lower Capulin Trail. Rock Out on the Trails Alcove House (left), once home to about 25 Ancestral Pueblo people, is reached by climbing 140 feet on a series of steps and ladders. NPS When To Visit The park is open yearround; the visitor center closes December 25 and January 1. The busiest time is spring into November. Free, required shuttle service into Frijoles Canyon runs mid-May to mid-October, 9 am to 3 pm, due to limited parking there. Check park website for information. Winter can be snowy and cold but offers more solitude; snow is cleared from a portion of Pueblo Loop Trail. Summer temperatures are often 80s to 90s°F; afternoon thunderstorms are common. Fall offers cooler, sunny days and crisp nights. Where to Start Your Visit At the visitor center in Frijoles Canyon, staff can help you plan your visit. To help orient you, there are trail guides, videos, exhibits, and a nearby park store that offers publications and other items related to the Bandelier area. The visitor center is open daily except December 25 and January 1, generally 9 am to 5 pm. Service animals are allowed. Facilities The park store is open yearround. A cafe is open seasonally. The park has no lodging. Juniper Family Campground, on the mesa above Frijoles Canyon near the entrance station, may be closed by snow. Ponde­rosa Group Campground is for groups of 10 or more; reservations are required. In picnic areas near the visitor center, you can use self-contained stoves but not fires. Tables are first-come, first-served. Activities Bandelier has three miles of public roads and over 70 miles of trails in its 33,750 acres. The network of trails, long and short, invites you to explore the park. Ancestral Pueblo dwellings are within a short, easy walk of the visitor center. The closest archeological site is 400 yards from the visitor center. The paved 1.4-mile Pueblo Loop Trail to Tyuonyi and the cliff dwellings can be walked in about an hour; wheelchairs and strollers can be used on part of Pueblo Loop Trail. Extending your walk, head 1/2 mile up Frijoles Canyon to Alcove House, a cliff dwelling reached only by climbing 140 feet up long wooden ladders and numerous stone stairs. A guidebook about the canyon and people who lived here is available for purchase. The popular Falls Trail leads to Frijoles Can­yon’s Upper Falls and focuses on scenery and geology. A booklet available for purchase explains interesting geologic features and identifies some native plants. The walk to Upper Falls is about three miles roundtrip (about two hours to complete). Tsankawi is a separate section of the park on NM 4 about 11 miles north of the main entrance. It offers a 11/2-mile loop walk on a primitive trail. Along the way are a large unexcavated village, cavates (hollowed out spaces in rocks), and many petroglyphs (rock carvings). A guidebook is available for purchase. Hikers with more time and stamina may venture into the backcountry. You can reach many areas on day hikes. Backpacking is allowed. Seventy percent of Bandelier is designated wilderness. The terrain is generally rugged with steep canyons. The average elevation (7,000 feet) can make hiking difficult if you are used to lower elevations. Finding remote archeological sites and petroglyphs or spotting shy wildlife can make hiking worthwhile for the well prepared. A free backcountry permit, available at the visitor center, is required for overnight stays in the wilderness. Use a current topographic map for all backcountry travel. Ask at the visitor center for more information. Safety Bandelier is an archeological area preserved in as natural a condition as possible, which can be hazar­dous. • Stay alert, be cautious, and use common sense. • Stay on trails. • Do not climb among the dwellings or enter caves unless they are accessible by ladders. • Carry drinking water, even on short trails, especially in hot weather. • Do not drink water from streams unless you purify it. The waterborne intestinal parasite Giardia lamblia is found in Bandelier. Regulations Bicycles, motorcycles, pets, and fires are not allowed on trails or in the backcountry. • Climbing on walls or cliffs is prohibited. Stay on trails. • Federal law prohibits removing plants, animals, rocks, or other natural or historic features. • Feeding wildlife is prohibited. Squirrels in particular can bite and may carry plague. • Pets are restricted to campgrounds, picnic areas, and parking lots. They must be leashed at all times. No pets on trails. • Bicycles and motorbikes are restricted to paved roads. No bikes allowed on trails. • Fires are permitted only in designated campgrounds and only in grills provided. Firewood collecting is prohibited. • Permits are required for all overnight trips into the backcountry. • A bear bag or other animal-resistant container is required for all overnight stays in the backcountry. • All vehicles towing trailers, cars, etc., must unhitch at the amphitheater parking lot across from Juniper Family Campground. • For firearms, fishing, and other regulations check the park website. Learn More About Bandelier The books listed next are among the items available for purchase from the park store near the visitor center, operated by the nonprofit Western National Parks Association. You may also call 505-672-3861, ext. 1816, or visit www.wnpa.org. • Bandelier National Monument by Patricia Bar­ey is a good source for general readers. • The Peopling of Bandelier, edited by Robert P. Powers, examines aspects of the area’s archeology. • The Delight Makers is Adolph Bandelier’s historical novel, first published in the 1890s. It is still in print. • A Trails Illustrated topographic map is available for hikers, as is the hikers’ guide A Guide to Bandelier National Monument by Dorothy Hoard. Warning: Do not use this map for backcountry travel. Use a current topographic map for wilderness hikes. The visitor center, which has parking and restrooms, is at an elevation of 6,066 feet/1,849 meters. Located north of Long Trail is Alcove House, which can be reached by a 140-feet climb on four ladders. Juniper Campground Road runs from the campground to Entrance Road and the park entrance station on Highway 4. Frey Trail is located to the east of Tyuonyi Overlook and runs from the campground to the Visitor Center. Its length is 2 miles/3.2 kilometers. Tyuonyi Overlook Trail is located north and east of Alcove House. It is a dead-end trail. It does not connect with Tyuonyi Overlook is located any other trail. It has a on the southeastern point length of 1 mile/1.6 of Tyuonyi Overlook Trail. kilometers. At its northwest point, Pueblo Loop Trail crosses Rito de los Frijoles and connects with Long Trail. Cliff Dwellings (Talus House) has four sites. Cliff Dwellings (Long House) has six sites. Located northwest of the visitor center along the Pueblo Loop Trail are the Big Kiva, Tyuonyi, Cliff Dwellings (Talus House), and Cliff Dwellings (Long House). Accessibility We strive to make facilities, services, and programs accessible to all; please call or check the park website. More Information Bandelier National Monument 15 Entrance Rd. Los Alamos, NM 87544-9508 505-672-3861, ext. 0 www.nps.gov/band Follow us on social media. Use the NPS App to guide your visit. Bandelier National Monument is one of over 400 parks in the National Park System. Learn more at www.nps.gov. North of Frey Trail are the amphitheater, Coyote Loop, Juniper Campground with an elevation of 6,600 feet/2,012 meters, Black Bear Loop, and Abert’s Squirrel Loop. Cottonwood Picnic Area, R V, and backpacker parking are located south of the visitor center along Entrance Road. The park store and cafe are located southeast of the visitor center. Plan Your Visit The park offers many activities. Here are some suggestions based on how much time you have during your visit. One Hour • Attend the 14-minute movie This Place Knows Us at the visitor center. • Explore the museum. • Walk the Pueblo Loop Trail using the self-guiding booklet. Two Hours The previous activities plus: • Continue the trail to Alcove House. Using Ancestral Pueblo petroglyphs found at Long House, this logo was 1 early 8/26/22 12:33 PM designed npf_black.pdf for Bandelier as as the 1920s. It is still used today. NPS Join the park community. www.nationalparks.org IGPO: 2022—419-059/82965 Last updated 2022 Three to Four Hours or More The previous activities plus: • From the visitor center, hike the Falls Trail using the self-guiding booklet. • Ask rangers at the visitor center for suggestions on other trails.