Arches

National Park Utah Arches National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior Delicate Arch Gordon Anderson How Are Arches Formed? Q As the Earth up- and enlarged the surface cracks, isowarped here, deep lating narrow sandcracks penetrated stone walls, or fins. to the buried sandAlternating frosts stone layer. Q Eroand thawing caused sion wore away exO crumbling and posed rock layers flaking of the porous sandstone and eventually cut through some of the fins. O The resulting holes were enlarged to arch proportions by subsequent rockfalls and weathering. The arches eventually collapse, leaving only buttresses. These, too, must in time succumb to erosion. Some natural bridges may look like arches, but they are formed in the path of streams, which wear away and penetrate the rock. We know of no true natural bridges in this park. Pothole arches, formed by theconstantdripping of water on sandstone, are prevalent. The Greatest Density of Arches in the World W i n d and water, e x t r e m e t e m p e r a t u r e s , and u n d e r g r o u n d salt m o v e m e n t are responsible for the s c u l p t u r e d rock scenery of A r c h e s National Park. O n blue-sky days, it is hard to imagine such v i o l e n t f o r c e s — o r 100 million years of erosion of s a n d s t o n e — c r e a t i n g this land that boasts the greatest density of natural arches in the w o r l d . The m o r e than 2 0 0 c a t a l o g u e d arches range in size f r o m a 1-meter (3-foot) o p e n i n g , the m i n i m u m c o n s i d e r e d an arch, to Landscape A r c h . This 32-meter- (105-foot) high r i b b o n of rock measures 89 meters (291 feet) f r o m base to base. All stages of arch f o r m a t i o n and decay are f o u n d here. Delicate A r c h , an isolated remnant of a b y g o n e f i n , stands on the brink of a c a n y o n , w i t h the w h i t e - c a p p e d La Sal M o u n t a i n s for a backdrop. Spires and pinnacles and balanced rocks p e r c h e d atop s e e m i n g l y inadequate bases v i e w i t h t h e arches as scenic spectacles. Early e x p l o r e r s t h o u g h t the h u g e arches and monoliths in the Windows Section w e r e , like S t o n e h e n g e in England, w o r k s of s o m e lost c u l t u r e . Arches National Park lies in s o u t h e a s t e r n Utah's red rock country. For a short stretch the C o l o r a d o River b o r d e r s t h e park. A bridge on U.S. H i g h w a y 191 c o n n e c t s the park w i t h Moab, Utah. Near this b r i d g e users of the Old S p a n i s h Trail swam mules across in the 1830s. A r e m n a n t of the trail adds historical intrigue to Arches. S o d o e s W o l f e R a n c h , the remains of a typical early-West cattle o p e r a t i o n . The Geologic Story. The national park lies atop an underg r o u n d salt bed, w h i c h is basically responsible for t h e arches and spires, balanced rocks, sandstone fins, and e r o d e d monoliths that make the area a sightseer's mecca. Thousands of meters thick in places, this salt bed was deposited over the C o l o r a d o Plateau s o m e 3 0 0 million years ago w h e n a sea f l o w e d into t h e r e g i o n and e v e n t u a l l y evaporated. O v e r millions of years, the salt bed was c o v e r e d with residue from floods and w i n d s and the o c e a n s that came in intervals. M u c h of this c o v e r i n g d e b r i s was c o m - Wolfe Ranch Much More LifeTha n Meets the Eye ten, jackrabbitsand Pinyon pines and cottontails, kangaroo gnarled juniper trees rats and other roadd a splash of green dents, and small repcontrast to the red tiles. Flocks of blue sandstone terrain. pinyon jays reside Desert flora abound here. Mountain bluein the park. In spring, birds and many other when conditions are species are migraright, wildflowers tory. Golden eagles bloom in profusion. and redtailed hawks From May to August are among the resicolorful displays cardent birds. Bald pet moist places. eagle and peregrine The wildlife here is falcon sightings characteristic of the have been reported. sparse pinyon-andjuniper forest communities of the Great Cryptogamic Soil Basin Desert. Most It's alive, so watch species are nocturyour step! But it nal, but you might won't bite you. If you sight a mule deer, step on cryptogamic kit fox, or more ofsoil, it will take years pressed into rock. The earth c o v e r i n g o v e r A r c h e s may have b e e n 1.5 k i l o m e t e r s (1 mile) thick. Salt is unstable, and the salt bed b e l o w A r c h e s was no match for the w e i g h t of this thick c o v e r of rock. Under s u c h pressure it s h i f t e d , b u c k l e d , liquified, and r e p o s i t i o n e d itself, thrusting the earth layers upward into domes. W h o l e sections d r o p p e d into cavities. In places they t u r n e d almost o n e d g e . Faults o c c u r r e d . T h e result of o n e s u c h 8 6 0 - m e t e r (2,500foot) d i s p l a c e m e n t , the M o a b Fault, is seen f r o m the visitor center. As this subsurface m o v e m e n t of salt shaped the Earth, surface e r o s i o n stripped away the y o u n g e r rock layers. E x c e p t for isolated r e m n a n t s , the major f o r m a t i o n s visible in A r c h e s today are the salmon-colored Entrada Sandstone, in w h i c h most of the arches f o r m , and the b u f f - c o l o r e d Navajo S a n d s t o n e . T h e s e are placed in layer cake fashion t h r o u g h out most of t h e park. O v e r t i m e the superficial cracks, j o i n t s , and folds of t h e s e layers w e r e saturated w i t h water. Ice f o r m e d in the fissures, m e l t e d u n d e r e x t r e m e d e s e r t heat, and w i n d s c l e a n e d out t h e loose particles. A series of free-standing fins r e m a i n e d . W i n d and w a t e r a t t a c k e d t h e s e fins until, in s o m e , t h e c e m e n t i n g material gave way and c h u n k s of rock t u m b l e d out. M a n y d a m a g e d fins c o l l a p s e d . O t h e r s , w i t h the right d e g r e e of hardness and balance, s u r v i v e d d e s p i t e their missing middles. These b e c a m e t h e famous arches. This is the geologic story of Arches—probably. The e v i d e n c e is largely c i r c u m s t a n t i a l . Wolfe Ranch. J o h n W e s l e y W o l f e , a disabled Civil War v e t e r a n , and his son, F r e d , settled h e r e in 1888. A w e a t h e r e d log c a b i n , root cellar, and corral remain as e v i d e n c e of their p r i m i t i v e r a n c h . What b r o u g h t t h e m h e r e f r o m O h i o and how t h e y f o u n d this r u g g e d land remains a mystery, but t h e y managed a living w i t h a small cattle o p e r a t i o n for m o r e than 20 years. A visit to W o l f e Ranch is a walk into the past. Balanced Rock Double Arch Gordon Anderson Frank L. Mendonca to restore itself, and even longer to eradicate the scar of your footstep. This dark, "brown sugar" stuff covers much of the terrain of untrampled desert areas. Composed of several species of mosses, lichens, fungi, and algae, this covering protects against surface erosion, absorbs moisture, and provides nitrogen and other nutrients for plant growth. Its name comes from two Greek words, kryptos and gamia, hidden marriage." This refers to the lack of flowers for reproduction. These so-called lower plants reproduce by spores. The action and the nutrient contributions of cryptogamic soil make development of vegetation possible in areas that otherwise might very we remain barren. 5-GPO 1983-381-578/252 Fiery Furnace walk National Park Utah Arches National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior What the Park and Surrounding Canyon Country Offer A r c h e s National Park is central to many scenic attractions of this semi-arid c a n y o n c o u n t r y that is 25 p e r c e n t e x p o s e d stone. N e a r b y are Canyonlands National Park, D e a d h o r s e Point State Park, Colorado, Dinosaur, and Natural B r i d g e s National M o n u m e n t s , and G l e n C a n y o n National R e c r e a t i o n A r e a . S c e n i c drives e x p l o r e the M o r m o n p i o n e e r t o w n of M o a b and e n v i r o n s . T h e r e are no f o o d and l o d g i n g facilities in the park; find these in M o a b . A tent and trailer c a m p g r o u n d (no reservations) is in the park's Devils G a r d e n . Naturalists lead spring and s u m m e r walks t h r o u g h Fiery Furnace and g i v e s u m m e r c a m p f i r e talks. Foot trails lead to many impressive park features. Y o u can see a lot f r o m y o u r car, but to grasp the aura of t i m e and s i l e n c e and the a w e s o m e scale so special here, get out of y o u r car and walk. Points of Special Interest. S t o p at the visitor center and ask advice on the best use of y o u r t i m e — w h e t h e r an hour or a w e e k — i n the park and nearby areas. T h e r e y o u also can see a color slide orientation p r o g r a m , g e o l o g y m u s e u m , history exhibit, and other maps and publications. In spring and summer, ask about the naturalist-led Fiery F u r n a c e Walk, a popular two-hour activity. A self-guiding auto tour b o o k l e t c o o r d i n a t e d with n u m b e r e d stops along the park road is available. Popular park features are listed below. Arch, d o u b l e d in size in the 1940s. Broken and Sand Dune Arches, short trails lead to a c u r i o u s l y e r o d e d arch and to an arch beside a sand d u n e w h e r e c h i l d r e n d e l i g h t to romp. Park Avenue, balanced rocks, spires, and e r o d e d fins that resemble a city skyline. Courthouse Towers, p h o t o g r a p h i c m e c c a that boasts h u g e m o n o l i t h s : S h e e p R o c k ; T h r e e Gossips; and a small arch in t h e m a k i n g . Balanced Rock, w o r l d famous. The Windows Section, four large arches seen from the roadway: D o u b l e and Turret A r c h e s and N o r t h and S o u t h W i n d o w s ; the latter t w o , seen from Turret A r c h , are k n o w n as the S p e c t a c l e s ; the Parade of E l e p h a n t s — n o matter how short your stay, at least go as far as the Windows Section. Panorama Point, vista of Salt Valley and of t h e Fiery F u r n a c e — s o m e t i m e s illuminated by sunset. Wolfe Ranch, old log cabin and ranch. Delicate Arch, see c o v e r photo! Salt Valley Overlook, collapsed salt dome. Fiery Furnace Viewpoint, dramatic o v e r v i e w of e x p o s e d sandstone fins; starting point for daily 2-hour g u i d e d walk in spring and s u m m e r . Skyline For Your Safety The climate and landscape at Arches pose special problems you should be aware of for your safety and convenience. Summer daytime temperatures can reach 43°C (110°F). Carry 4 liters (1 gallon) of water per person per day, minimum. Dehydration and heat problems can be fatal. Sandstone "slickrock" is dangerousit crumbles and breaks easily. Deaths from falls have occurred. Climbing down after an ascent maybe impossible, leaving you rimrocked. Technical rescues are expensive and dangerous. Rock climbing is permitted, but climbing on any feature named on USGS maps is prohibited. If in doubt, ask a ranger. Backcountry overnight hikers must get afreebackcountry permit at the visitor center. There are no designated backcountry trails, so you need a USGS map. Designated trails are marked with rock cairns. Stay on these trails to protect fragile desert soils and plantlife. You must carry water and a camp stove. Do not hike alone. If you become lost, stay where you are. Aimless wandering wastes precious survival energy andean confound searchers. All backcountry water should be boiled two minutes before drinking to destroy Giardia organisms. Chemical treatment is not considered effective. Drivers please note. The scenery here can lead you astray. Save sightseeing for the turnouts provided. And watch for other drivers who may be awestruck! And one last note. Don't walk off a Devils Garden Campground, s o m e 5 0 tent and trailer sites, f i r s t - c o m e , first-served, plus t w o walk-in g r o u p sites limited to t e n t i n g and available by reservation for 10 or m o r e persons. Facilities i n c l u d e flush toilets and water until frost; c h e m i c a l toilets and no water from N o v e m b e r t h r o u g h m i d M a r c h . No fee is c h a r g e d w h e n the water is t u r n e d off. C a m p f i r e p r o g r a m s nightly in spring and s u m m e r at t h e amphitheater. Devils Garden Trail, t r e m e n d o u s l y rewarding 3.2-kilometer (2-mile) walk f r o m t h e trailhead to D o u b l e O A r c h ; ask about several other arches and a b o u t the new p r i m i t i v e loop trail. Klondike Bluffs, vast scenic area; m a g n i f i c e n t T o w e r A r c h ; e r o d e d fins of M a r c h i n g M e n ; salmon-pink c o l o r e d Entrada Sandstone features topped by white Moab Member sandstone; hikers s h o u l d ask a b o u t t h e possibilities here. Herdina Park, primarily f o u r - w h e e l drive access; also g o o d for backpackers; Eye of the W h a l e A r c h f o u n d here. cliff while looking through your camera viewfinder or binoculars. We know, that sounds ridiculous, but.... Regulations Regulations are designed for your safety and for the protection of natural resources for posterity. Do not take pets on trails or in buildings. They must be under physical restraint at all times. Wood gathering is prohibited. Bring fuel for the grills provided, or bring a stove. Do not litter; we are proud of our reputation for cleanliness. Do not deface or disfigure features. Some of these magnificent sights exist on borrowed time as it is. Should you stumble across rare Anasazi Indian rock writings, leave them alone. Admire them. They are parts of a puzzle we hope to unravel someday. Backpacking and rock climbing, only on unnamed features, are permitted in the park. Please read about these activities under Safety. If you have questions, ask at the visitor center, ask a ranger, or write the superintendentaddress at right. For Information The park superintendents address is c/o Canyonlands National Park, 446 South Main Street, Moab, UT 84532. Preservation Plea Please remember that this is a sanctuary for wildlife. Hunting and the use of firearms are prohibited. Do not disturb, deface, or destroy flowers, trees, wildlife, or other natural objects or artifacts. Law enforcement activities are seldom necessary at Arches. We like that. Help us attain a perfect, nocitation year.