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Russian Gulch / Mendocino Headlands / Van DammePark Brochure |
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Russian Gulch
Mendocino Headlands
Van Damme
State Parks
Our Mission
The mission of California State Parks is
to provide for the health, inspiration and
education of the people of California by helping
to preserve the state’s extraordinary biological
diversity, protecting its most valued natural and
cultural resources, and creating opportunities
for high-quality outdoor recreation.
Roaring sea caves,
a rare pygmy forest,
ocean views from
Victorian windows —
welcome to Mendocino
area state parks.
California State Parks supports equal access.
Prior to arrival, visitors with disabilities who
need assistance should contact the park office at
(707) 937-5804. If you need this publication in an
alternate format, contact interp@parks.ca.gov.
CALIFORNIA STATE PARKS
P.O. Box 942896
Sacramento, CA 94296-0001
For information call: (800) 777-0369
(916) 653-6995, outside the U.S.
711, TTY relay service
www.parks.ca.gov
SaveTheRedwoods.org/csp
Russian Gulch, Mendocino Headlands,
and Van Damme State Parks
Along Highway 1 • Mendocino, CA
(707) 937-5804
© 2003 California State Parks (Rev. 2017)
O
n the Mendocino coast, the air smells
of salt, and the crashing waves create a
continuous resonance. The tall bluffs at this
spot north of San Francisco resemble the
rugged shores of the east coast, but with an
unmistakable California flair. Victorian-era
communities that overlook the sea reflect the
New England roots of their builders who, in
the ordinary course of life, added volumes to
California’s colorful history.
The Russian colony had failed by 1841.
The Fort Ross property had various owners
until 1906, when the fort and acreage were
acquired by the State for restoration,
reconstruction, and interpretation.
Little River, Van Damme State Park
MENDOCINO AREA STATE PARKS
Two miles north of Mendocino, Russian Gulch
State Park’s collapsed sea cave cuts 200 feet
into the headlands to form the boiling surge
known as the Devil’s Punchbowl. Mendocino
is embraced on three sides by unmatched
views from Mendocino Headlands State
Park. Van Damme State Park, beginning at
the mouth of the Little River, has a protected
cove for divers, a fern canyon for hikers, and
a unique forest of Mendocino pygmy cypress.
The climate here is temperate year-round.
Winter rains and cool summer fogs that
usually burn off by mid-morning provide the
moisture necessary for the thriving coastal
redwood trees.
of plenty, native groups often gathered to
share the bounty. When Russian and Aleutian
fur trappers arrived here in the early 1800s,
they were likely the Pomo’s first contact with
non-natives.
When the Pomo were drawn into the
mission system in the early 1800s, their
way of life was forever altered. Within
a generation or two, direct conflict and
exposure to European diseases nearly
decimated them. Today about 5,000 Pomo
descendants, who still occupy parts of their
ancestral lands, gather the raw materials
to make some of the world’s finest Native
American baskets and to pass on this ancient
skill to the next generation of artisans.
MENDOCINO HISTORY
Native Americans
The Pomo date back about 3,000 years on
the North Coast. They built their main village
of redwood bark houses at the mouth of
Big River. The Pomo hunted large and small
game, caught fish and shellfish, and gathered
seaweed, acorns, and various seeds.
Whatever they could not obtain locally, they
acquired in trade with other groups; in times
European and American Settlers
Settled by emigrants from all over the world,
the Mendocino area has a long history of
entrepreneurial exploitation. In 1812 a ship
owned by the Russian-American Company
entered a cove beneath the bluffs of what
would become North America’s southernmost
Russian settlement, Fort Ross. In the 1830s,
the American and Hudson’s Bay trappers
passed through seeking mammal pelts.
The Lumber Mills
The brig Frolic sank off Point Cabrillo with its
San Francisco-bound cargo in 1850. Attempts
at salvage were largely unsuccessful.
However, would-be salvagers, who had
hoped to find treasures for the taking, looked
around at the enormous stands of redwoods
nearby and realized that they had found their
fortune. Within two years, they had built a
sawmill at the mouth of the Big River.
In 1984 an archaeological team from San
Jose State University discovered fragments
of Chinese porcelain in housepits of a former
Pomo settlement. This was the first indication
that the Frolic’s cargo may have been
partially salvaged by local native people.
San Francisco engineer Harry Meiggs built
the sawmill at Big River in 1852. By the early
1900s, Big River had become an important
lumber town.
In 1864 Little River was founded as a
mill town to supply lumber to build San
Francisco. Heavy logging diminished local
timber resources; by 1893 the Little River Mill
had closed, so businesses, services, and the
school were abandoned.
Near Russian Gulch, several small,
short-term mills operated until the area
became “logged over,” but the mills’ pier
was used for passengers and freight into the
next century.
RUSSIAN GULCH STATE PARK
Devil’s Punchbowl, the park’s most famous
feature, formed when pounding waves
forged an inland tunnel and left a hole
100 feet across and 60 feet deep. At high
tide, roiling waves crash around the cave’s
interior, producing a reverberant echo. The
photogenic Frederick W. Panhorst Bridge
rises gracefully 100 feet from the bottom of
the gulch. The park has nearly a mile and
a half of ocean frontage; its craggy beauty
rivals any point along California’s coast. In
the spring, the park’s foggy headlands bloom
with acres of wildflowers.
Park History
Lumber operations around Russian Gulch
were modest: shingles, split lumber, and
railroad ties. In the early 1880s, several
homesteaders filed claims on the land,
and some of it was farmed. Until well into
the 1900s, Russian Gulch was a fishing boat
harbor and stop for freight and passenger
ships. In the mid-1920s, F. O. Warner, a Los
Angeles real estate developer, purchased
land around Russian Gulch to open a resort;
visitors realized that Russian Gulch was an
ideal place to spend hot summers. In August
1928, the Mendocino Beacon reported that
the Native Sons of the Golden West had
launched a movement “to have Russian
Gulch . . . set aside for one of the proposed
State Parks.” In 1933 the State acquired the
land, and on October 21, 1934, Russian Gulch
State Park was dedicated.
The source of the name “Russian Gulch” is
uncertain. Possibly cartographers charting the
area named it for its proximity to Fort Ross;
others suggest the name came from a fort
deserter who settled in the area.
VAN DAMME STATE PARK
Park History
The park was named for Charles Van Damme,
son of Belgian settlers. Van Damme became
a successful businessman in San Francisco,
then returned to Little River to buy 40 acres
of redwood forest to create public picnic and
camping facilities. He left this land to the
State. In 1934 this acreage, combined with
most of the upper Little River drainage lands,
became Van Damme State Park.
Van Damme habitats include marine,
coastal beach, coastal bluff terrace, pygmy
forest, redwood forest, and riparian, with
wetlands areas farther inland. Bishop
pine and coastal redwoods grow along the
river. The Little River provides habitat for
steelhead, coho salmon, stickleback, and
both prickly and Coast Range sculpin. Red
alder, willow, grand fir, and western hemlock
are part of the riparian plant community, and
the park’s Sitka spruces grow at this species’
southernmost limit. Local birdwatchers may
sight a yellow warbler, belted kingfisher,
Swainson’s thrush, or northern spotted owl.
William H. Kent, the first permanent
American settler in the area, joined the gold
rush in 1850. In 1853 he went to work at the
Little River sawmill and later bought land in
the area now partially encompassed by Van
Damme State Park. Between 1864 and 1893,
lumber operations became Little River’s
commercial foundation, and the industry’s
land holdings came to include much of what
is now the park.
The panic of 1893—a five-year economic
depression—hit the American west
particularly hard. Of 156 national bank
failures that year, 66 were in the Pacific states
and western territories. By 1900 the mill
operation was completely shut down.
MENDOCINO HEADLANDS STATE PARK
This 347-acre greenbelt, on the headlands
between Highway One and the Pacific Ocean,
surrounds the town of Mendocino. Sheer
bluffs rising from a rocky shoreline form the
park’s southern section. The historic Ford
House (built in 1854) Visitor Center sits on
the south side of Mendocino’s Main Street.
Van Damme sawmill
Most of the shops on the town’s picturesque
principal street have excellent ocean views.
Park History
Mendocino was the first of several north
coast towns founded between 1851 and
1920—the height of the lumber industry.
German immigrant William Kasten was bound
for the gold country in 1850 when his ship
fortuitously ran aground off the Mendocino
coast. In 1851 he filed papers claiming land
he called “Port of Good Hope.”
Those who built Mendocino’s Victorian
buildings found their fortunes in the
magnificent stands of coast redwoods. In
1854 Jerome B. Ford, superintendent of the
first sawmill in Mendocino and founder of
the town, built a home overlooking the Pacific
for his bride. Today the Ford House Visitor
Center exhibits tools, a scale model of 1890
Mendocino, Native American artifacts, and
photographic images that interpret the town’s
history. While Mendocino is known today for
art galleries, shops, and inns, its well-tended
Victorian architecture still conjures up a time
when transportation was by horse, and each
home had a water tower and an outhouse.
The State acquired a portion of the
headlands in 1957, and in 1974, through the
support and advocacy of the local residents,
the land around the town became Mendocino
Headlands State Park.
Big River Property
In 2002 California State Parks acquired
7,334 acres of land between Russian Gulch
and Van Damme that begins near the
Mendocino Headlands, where the Big River
The Ford House Visitor Center
flows into the ocean, and extends east to
inland ridges. Once this area rang with the
sounds of logging operations. Today the
jarring logging noises have been replaced
by bird and animal sounds and the splash
of canoes and kayaks going to sea. Park
terrain encompasses coastal brackish marsh,
mudflats, coastal and valley freshwater
marsh, coastal scrub, riparian forests, Bishop
pine, grand fir, Mendocino pygmy cypress,
coastal conifers, coast redwoods, and mixed
hardwoods and conifers.
Big River’s estuary protects the habitats of
27 threatened or endangered animal species
and 21 rare, threatened, or endangered
plant species. Some threatened species are
slowly reappearing. This project and other
protected lands form a 74,000-acre corridor
that allows wildlife to roam freely between
existing parks and preserves.
Recreation
Visitors can enjoy hiking fern canyons,
miles of trails, horse camping, a 36-foot
waterfall, scuba diving, bluff-top
picnicking, camping, and a bicycle trail,
among many choices.
Camping—Russian Gulch and Van Damme
State Parks have campgrounds—reservations
are highly recommended from spring through
fall. Call (800) 444-7275.
Diving and Fishing—Russian Gulch’s rocky
ledges attract abalone divers. The wellprotected dive site at Van Damme has
shallow areas and offers beginners gradual
entry from the shore. Abalone divers need
a valid California fishing license and report
card. See www.wildlife.ca.gov. NOTE:
The beauty of the Mendocino coast is
tempered by its unpredictability and
danger. Dive only in designated areas, and
heed the warnings on the parks’ map.
Kayaking and Canoeing—The Big River has
an outlet to the sea, sea caves, and a great
view of historic Mendocino. At Van Damme,
tide pools and sea caves provide adventure,
while at Russian Gulch,
canoes and kayaks take
you from the cove’s calm
waters into the ocean.
Interpretive Activities—
Summer interpretive
activities include staff-led
hikes, campfire programs,
and Junior Ranger programs.
Times and locations are
posted in each park.
Black-tailed deer
Legend
Russian Gulch, Mendocino Headlands,
Paved Road
STAY ALIVE!
STAY ALERT!
• Stay back from
bluff edges.
• Large rogue
waves can sweep
you out to sea
during ALL
seasons and
ocean conditions.
• Bluff- and oceanrelated deaths
are common.
• The water is very
cold, swift, and
unforgiving.
and Van Damme
Unpaved/Service Road
State Parks
Trail: Accessible
Trail: Hike
Trail: Hike & Bike
Trail: Multi-Use
to Russian Gulch SP
& Fort Bragg
Accessible Feature
Boat Launch: Vehicle
Campfire Center
Campground
Campground: Environmental
ve
tl
Lit
Lansing
Heeser Dri
St
Campground: Group
Campground: Hike & Bike
Campground: Horse
Locked Gate
eL
ake
Rd
eet
Lake Str
Natural Trail
Parking
Main
Mendocino
Headlands
Bluff Trail
Picnic Area
St
Ranger Station
Restrooms
to Van
Damme SP
RV Sanitation Station
Showers
PLEASE REMEMBER
• All features of the
parks are protected
by state law and may
not be disturbed
or collected.
• Anglers over the age
of 16 must have a
valid fishing license
in their possession.
• Do not gather dead
or down wood.
Purchase firewood
at campground.
Waterfall
to Fort Bragg
Co
ty
Rd
40
9
North Boundary Trail
No
l
rth
Tra
il
o
p
Waterfall
il
Tra
This park is supported in part
through a nonprofit organization.
For more information, contact
Mendocino Area Parks Association
P.O. Box 1387 Mendocino, CA 95460
(707) 937-4700
http://mendoparks.org/
Fa
lls
L
Tra
i
il
on
a
Tr
rn C
a ny
rth
Fe
r t h Tr a
il
No
No
o
North Trail
Sector
un
Sout
h Trail
F a l ls
Lo o p
Trail
South
Headlands
Trail
ch Trail
Pe ter son
• Driving off
designated roads is
not permitted.
Trail
F e rn
Airpor
t Rd
l
Trai
VA N D A M M E
S TAT E PA R K
g
Ro
ad
Trail
River
enic
Sc
in
Little
y
Can o n
g
O l d Log
Entrance
Station
yo
ra i l
nT
n
R an
Ca
ing
rn
Spr
Fe
Chapman Trail
VA N D A M M E
PYGMY FOREST
N AT U R A L P R E S E R V E
Pygmy Forest
Self-Guided
Trail
Little River Airpo
ACCESSIBLE FEATURES
Russian Gulch and Van Damme both
have accessible picnic areas, campsites,
and restrooms. Mendocino Headlands
has accessible restrooms next to Ford
House and on Heeser Dr. For updates,
visit http://access.parks.ca.gov.
• Pets are welcome
but must be kept
on a leash no longer
than six feet. In
campgrounds, they
must be kept in a
vehicle or in your
tent at night.
rt Rd
© 2002 California State Parks (Rev. 2017)
• State law requires
that all bicycle
riders under the
age of 18 wear
bicycle helmets.
Safety tips for abalone diverS Survive to enjoy your catch!
Check local conditions—Always check the weather
forecast and ocean conditions before diving.
Check yourself out—Honestly assess your capabilities
in light of weather and water conditions. Are you
in shape? Are you sober? Is your equipment in
good shape?
Buddy up—Always dive with a partner. Make a dive plan
and stick to it. Stay together!
Get a lift—Drop your weights if you get tired or into
trouble. Hang your weight belt on your dive tube any
time you need a break. Don’t overweight! Carry no more
than 10% of your body weight.
please remember that the
ocean and the abalone
will be there tomorrow.
make a go/no-go decision
you can live with!