AsilomarVisitor Guide Issue 14 |
Visitor Guide Issue 14 for Asilomar State Beach (SB) in California. Published by California Department of Parks and Recreation.
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asilomar
S TATE B E ACH AN D CO N FE R E N CE G RO U N DS
VISITOR GUIDE ISSUE 14
©CA State Parks
Welcome!
©CA State Parks
2
Thank you for enabling State Parks
to preserve Asilomar for generations
to come!
arl
Pe
ob
©Jac
On behalf of California State Parks
and our concessionaire partner,
Aramark, we warmly welcome you to
Asilomar State Beach & Conference
Grounds. One of the most unique
parks in our state, Asilomar’s location
is unparalleled. Situated at the tip of
the Monterey Peninsula, Asilomar’s
guest rooms are spread throughout
the native Monterey pine and coast
live oak forest, all within view and
walking distance of the majestic
Make the Most of Your
Asilomar Visit
Whether you are here to meet and
confer with colleagues, reaffirm
family ties, or are visiting as an
overnight guest, there are many
Eric Abma,
ways to experience Asilomar’s
Asilomar State Park Superintendent
unique “spirit of place”:
• Take a self-guided tour of
Pacific Ocean. Julia Morgan’s
Asilomar. Self-guided tours are
signature Arts and Crafts style of
available on your cell phone or
architecture makes up the Historic
from a brochure. Brochures are
Core of this property, immersing
found at the State Parks Desk in
guests in the sense of place
the Phoebe Hearst Social Hall, or
experienced by Young Women’s
from our website: https://www.
Christian Association (YWCA)
parks.ca.gov/asilomar - follow the
campers of the early 1900s.
“Self-Guided Tours” link.
Asilomar State Beach and
• Get to know Asilomar with State
Conference Grounds was purchased
Park staff on “The Asilomar
by the State of California in 1956
Ramble”, a tour covering many
with the intent of operating a
topics unique to Asilomar,
financially sustainable park – a goal
including its beginnings as
in which it has succeeded. Our
the YWCA’s first West Coast
partnership with Aramark enables
conference grounds, star
Asilomar to maintain financial
architect Julia Morgan’s work
independence: operating entirely
here, the natural environment,
free of state funding. Through
and Asilomar’s history as a
lodging costs and purchases at
California State Park.
Asilomar 100% of the park’s budget
• Get Social! Tag, Tweet, Post, Pin,
is generated by you, the park visitor.
Contents
Welcome 2
Aramark 4
YWCA Builds Asilomar 6
Restoration 11
Architecture 13
Habitats 16
• Stretch your legs! Walking or
running routes are plentiful
at Asilomar. Enjoy the raised
vistas from the Asilomar Dunes
Boardwalk, or head across the
street, to find the sandy shores
of Asilomar State Beach, or north
on the Asilomar Coast trail which
meanders along the rocky tide
pools and quiet coves.
©CA State Parks
This special length of coast is
a California State Beach, and the
off shore waters are protected by
California as a State Marine Reserve,
as well as Federal regulation as
the Monterey Bay National Marine
Sanctuary. These protections ensure
marine life is abundant here, so
keep your eyes peeled! On a regular
basis you can see Sea Otters, Gray
Whales, Invertebrates (in the tide
pools), and if you are lucky you may
spot Orca or Blue Whales!
©CA State Parks, Peter Nichols
etc. Asilomar… We would like
to be part of your adventure!
Please include Asilomar in your
social life:
https://www.facebook.com/
CaliforniaStateParks
https://twitter.com/CAStateParks
https://www.youtube.com/user/
CaliforniaStateParks
https://castateparks.wordpress.
com/
https://www.pinterest.com/
castateparks/asilomar-statebeach/
#InventYourAdventure
Bird Life of Asilomar 24
10 Things to Know 28
Beach Mobility 29
Cover Artist 30
Short Drives 31
we would like to hear from you:
California State Parks
asilomar.beach@parks.ca.gov
Asilomar State Beach Office,
804 Crocker Avenue,
Pacific Grove, CA 93950.
Aramark collects guest survey
cards, which are available from
the Park Store, the Front Desk,
and the Crocker Dining Hall.
Online surveys are available at
MyGuestExperience.com
We are pleased to have you here
and hope you enjoy your stay!
Eric Abma, Superintendent
Asilomar State Beach and
Conference Grounds
Help Make Asilomar Better!
Your ideas and feedback play a
major role in determining just how
successful we are at Asilomar State
Beach and Conference Grounds, and
3
4
Enos Esquivel
General Manager, Asilomar Conference Grounds
our core mission of delivering
experiences that enrich and
nourish the lives of our visitors.
Environmental Sustainability
Environmental sustainability
is at the core of what we do at
Asilomar. We recognize that
operating our business in a way
that limits negative impact on the
environment is critically important
to the site, to Asilomar, the
Monterey Peninsula community,
©Aramark
Aramark would like to welcome
you to the Monterey Peninsula
and Asilomar State Beach and
Conference Grounds.
In September 2009, California
State Parks awarded Aramark
the concession to operate the
Asilomar Conference Grounds.
Aramark is proud to include this
“Refuge by the Sea” among the
treasured properties it manages
throughout the United States
including State Parks, National
Parks and Forests, cultural
attractions and conference
centers.
In California, Aramark also has
the privilege of operating at Hearst
Castle - another unit of California
State Parks. In 2016, Aramark
was awarded the management
contract for Yosemite National
Park. In partnership with its
clients, Aramark seeks to
enhance the guest experience
by offering industry-leading
hospitality, conference services,
environmental stewardship and
corporate social responsibility.
Here at Asilomar State Beach and
Conference Grounds, Aramark staff
directly supports California State
Parks in its mission to preserve
and protect, while we focus on
©Aramark
©Aramark
aramark
and the globe. Our daily operations
have been assessed for their
impact on the environment and
methods for reducing impact have
been put into place. Some of our
greatest conservation needs are in
the areas of energy, water, and solid
waste management.
Here is how we have addressed
some of these issues in recent
years and plan for continued
progress in overall conservation.
Energy Conservation – The
property is currently undergoing
upgrades to energy efficient
LED lighting with a total of 85%
converted so far.
Water Conservation – The
introduction of Water City - a state
of the art water recycling system,
was installed in 2016, allowing
reclamation of up to 75% of the
water used for housekeeping
operations.
Solid Waste Management –
We have a robust composting
Let us know if you see additional
areas where we can make
environmental improvements.
Healthy Foods
In the spirit of encouraging healthy
people and a healthy planet,
Aramark chefs work hard to
ensure that we focus on providing
organic, seasonal and local
produce and proteins (meat, fish
and dairy). Guests can expect the
freshest ingredients prepared to
retain the food’s maximum flavor
and optimum health benefits.
Our meals offer goodness and
high quality - a priority for a good
diet. Our cooking style includes
fish and meats as a main staple,
incorporating vegetables, fruits,
whole grains, seeds, nuts and
legumes as often as possible.
Our focus is on balance and
moderation to provide healthy
meals. This not only applies to the
quantity of food served, but also
to the flavorings incorporated
during preparation. We emphasize
a cooking style that promotes
nourishing foods.
The Monterey Bay Aquarium’s
Seafood Watch Program helps
consumers and businesses
©Aramark
Aramark and CA State Parks employees at Asilomar State Beach and
Conference Grounds Park Unit
make seafood choices for
healthy oceans. As a Seafood
Watch Partner, Asilomar’s menu
recommendations indicate which
seafood items are “Best Choices”
or “Good Alternatives”; menus
do not include items to “Avoid”.
The earth’s oceans have supplied
humans with food and have
created a livelihood for millions
of people for thousands of years.
At Aramark we are working with
Seafood Watch to do our part
to contribute to better ocean
management practices.
Healthy Mind and Body
As a unit of California State
Parks, Asilomar State Beach and
Conference Grounds is open to
the public 365 days a year. Part of
the California State Parks mission
is to “provide for the health,
inspiration and education of the
people of California.” Asilomar is
the perfect place to relax, recharge
and renew. Some of the activities
you can enjoy at Asilomar include
walking the scenic Natural Dunes
Boardwalk, relaxing in front of the
Social Hall’s granite rock fireplace,
or learning Asilomar’s stories
on a guided State Park tour. To
learn more about all there is to
do at Asilomar, please visit www.
VisitAsilomar.com.
—Contributed by the Aramark
team at Asilomar State Beach and
Conference Grounds
©Aramark
program, Clean the World soap
recycling program, and community
outreach events.
You can also help us meet our
goals by:
• Using the trash and recycling
bins provided on property
• Turning off the faucet while
washing your hands and
brushing teeth
• Turning out the lights and
turning off the heat when
leaving your guest or meeting
room
• Walking or biking around the
property rather than driving
your car
Phoebe A. Hearst Social Hall
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©CA State Parks
ywca builds
asilomar
Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall Entry, c. 1915
The Young Women’s Christian
Association created Asilomar
in 1913 as a conference ground
for its Pacific Coast chapters, for
like-minded social, educational
and religious organizations, and
as a vacation camp for families,
girls and women. Purchased by
the State of California in 1956,
Asilomar became a National
Historic Landmark in 1987 for
its extraordinary Arts and Crafts
architecture and “as a monumental
achievement in the context of the
career of Julia Morgan”, the first
woman awarded the American
Institute of Architecture’s Gold
Medal.
Young Women’s Christian
Association (YWCA)
Founded on the East Coast in the
second half of the 19th century,
the Young Women’s Christian
Association grew alongside the
women’s movement. Inspired
by late nineteenth-century
Evangelical Protestantism, some
of the women of the YWCA fought
for women’s suffrage, educational
rights, better working conditions,
and safer and cleaner cities. The
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YWCA’s ultimate aim was “to help
girls to be physically, mentally, and
spiritually fit.” By the early years
of the twentieth century, YWCA
branches were located in every
major American city and on nearly
every college campus in California.
Virtually every branch included an
employment bureau. The YWCA
operated more than 100 boarding
houses that offered recreation,
education, meals and the company
of other young women. The YWCA
sought to promote “wholesome
recreation and social enjoyment”
for young women. To this end,
their annual meetings were often
held in campgrounds and other
outdoor settings.
The Hotel Capitola in Capitola,
California, within easy reach of the
©CA State Parks
Asilomar, a National
Historic Landmark
YWCA Summer Camp Uniform, c. 1918
ocean, mountains, and forests,
served as the conference site
until 1911 when Phoebe Hearst
invited the group to hold the
1912 conference at her estate
in Pleasanton. Mrs. Hearst, long
considered a “fairy godmother” to
the Pacific Coast Branch, provided
the 1912 “Hacienda Conference”
with a hilltop campground
equipped with tents and iron beds
for more than 350 young women.
She stocked a huge dining tent,
and even built roads up the hillside
to smooth the way for the fleet of
autos that shuttled girls from the
train depot.
Mrs. Hearst invited some of
the Bay Area’s most influential
women to hear firsthand about
the YWCA’s work and the plan to
build a permanent conference
center. Hearst paid the cost of the
food and equipment while the
girls’ conference fees were added
to the fund set aside to purchase a
permanent camp.
YWCA’s West Coast leadership
had negotiated a deal with a
Monterey Peninsula real estate
developer, Pacific Improvement
Company (PIC). In spite of the
objections of several members,
who feared that Pacific Grove’s
iron beds, and electric lights
and showers. Girls could open
the drapes and slide their beds
partway onto the veranda to enjoy
the fresh ocean air.
The First National Summer
Conference Camp, 1913
Asilomar became part of a national
system of conference facilities
operated by the YWCA and the
first that it owned outright. Initially,
the grounds were to be known as
“Guardamar,” but that was a name
no one seemed to like. Phoebe
Hearst suggested that the girls
name the grounds and proposed a
contest to excite interest. Contest
rules insisted that the name be
something “Californian, preferably
Spanish, and must suggest either
the peculiar natural charm of the
place, or the purpose for which
it is to be used, or, better still,
both.” Helen Salisbury, a Stanford
University graduate, won a fivedollar gold coin for her winning
entry. She combined the Spanish
word asilo, which means haven
or refuge, with mar, meaning sea,
to form “Asilomar” – a refuge by
the sea.
The opening conference began
Sunday, August 3, 1913. Classes and
lectures – on topics ranging from
the international work of the YWCA
to the power of the American
common schools – were scheduled
over the next 10 days. While much
of the week was devoted to Bible
study and training for missionary
work, girls were encouraged to
bring a nice dress for visiting
Monterey and Carmel, and a pair
of tramping shoes for hiking the
coast. Afternoons were free and
every night the girls enjoyed
bonfires. The highlight of the week
was the pageant, “The Ministering
of the Gift,” starring 400 costumed
girls and the Monterey Presidio
Band.
Asilomar
YWCA’s leadership expected
Asilomar to pay its own way, but
also sought donations to fulfill
an ambitious building plan.
Armed with large sums from
wealthy philanthropists, including
Mrs. Hearst, Ellen Browning
Scripps, Olivia and Catherine
Stokes, as well as donations from
several thousand ordinary girls,
©CA State Parks
climate might be too harsh for
young women, the PIC agreed to
deed the YWCA with 30 acres of
land “facing the ocean” between
the famed Seventeen-Mile Drive
and the Pacific Ocean. The YWCA
agreed to make $30,000 in
improvements within 10 years, and
would pay one dollar per acre per
annum in ‘taxes’.
The YWCA wasted little time
in hiring Bay Area architect Julia
Morgan, who had connections to
the Hearst family and was then
completing plans for the YWCA
building in Oakland. Surveyors
went to work in February 1913,
and by June a site had been
cleared and work begun on the
Administration Building, later
named the Phoebe Apperson
Hearst Social Hall. When the girls
arrived in early August, they were
greeted by a huge, round dining
tent shipped in by Mrs. Hearst, and
temporary tent houses. The tent
houses had solid redwood frames
shingled roofs, canvas drapes
for walls, hardwood floors, and a
veranda to ensure “a neighborly
atmosphere.” Each had fifteen
rooms equipped with a pair of
YWCA Pacific Field Committee, 1913. Phoebe Hearst, fifth from right wearing Chinese garment.
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to “Pirates”. The Stuck-ups and
and Pirates have become some of
the most memorable characters
in the history of Asilomar. Today,
their stories and photos hang in
the hallways of Stuck-up Inn and
Pirates’ Den lodges.
Asilomar Tent Houses, 1923. Dickinson Collection.
the YWCA expanded the grounds
and added several new buildings.
By 1920, they had added twenty
acres and several Julia Morgandesigned buildings: Grace Dodge
Chapel-Auditorium, Visitors
Lodge, the Guest Inn, the Health
Cottage, Class Hall, Crocker Dining
Hall, Stuck-Up Inn, as well as a
warehouse and a maintenance
shop.
To pay for its annual operations
the YWCA charged the girls $1.50
per day for room and board (about
$37.00 in 2017) and leased the
grounds to groups sympathetic
to its cause. The Young Men’s
Christian Association and the
Epworth League began holding
their annual conferences at
Asilomar starting in 1914. The
California Press Association made
an annual excursion to Asilomar,
as did the California Grange, the
Chinese Student Association, the
Japanese Student Association and
many others. In the winter of 192021 Asilomar opened at other times
during the year, in part to keep up
with the demand, but also to keep
money flowing into its coffers.
Stuck-Ups and Pirates
To assist the YWCA mission at
8
Asilomar, volunteer opportunities
were offered to college-age
YWCA members. In exchange
for room and board, the young
women were involved in camp
leadership activities along with
chores such as washing dishes,
mopping and sweeping floors
during conferences. Despite the
hard and time-consuming work,
only a few positions were available
each summer, and the supply of
young women often exceeded the
demand.
Initial dismay and vocal
reluctance to menial tasks earned
the 1913 recruits the nickname,
‘Stuck-Ups’. It was a title gamely
embraced, and, in 1918 would
grace the name of their Julia
Morgan-designed lodge.
In 1922, the YWCA hired young
men to assist at camp. They did
some of the heavy lifting required
at Asilomar by serving as porters,
bus boys, and dishwashers. Known
as the “Pirates,” they became
central to an annual conference
tradition of dressing in pirate
costumes and ‘raiding’ Crocker
Dining Hall during lunch time. That
many of them took liberties with
the dessert tray led to their original
name, “Pie Rats”, later morphed
In the Depression years of the
early 1930s, the YWCA found its
donors less willing and able to
fund Asilomar’s deficits. Short of
cash, the YWCA’s National Board
closed Asilomar, and put it on the
market. Nevertheless, demand for
Asilomar’s facilities was still strong.
Winifred Heard of Berkeley, who
had been involved with Asilomar
since 1928, used her connections in
the Bay Area’s spiritual community,
to organize several conferences
that not only helped pay for
maintenance and upkeep but also
helped shape Asilomar’s future.
Despite Heard’s efforts, the YWCA
©CA State Parks
©CA State Parks
A Resort by the Sea
Baseball in the Dunes at Asilomar, 1915.
Grogan Collection.
©CA State Parks
Stuck Ups, 1927
continued to pursue a buyer for
Asilomar.
In 1936, the YWCA leased
Asilomar to the Visel brothers,
operators of a ranch in Carpinteria,
California. The YWCA apparently
also gave them an option to
buy the grounds for $100,000.
Paulson Visel, with his wife
Beatrice, his brother David and
mother Elizabeth, moved onto the
grounds and began an energetic
program to restore Asilomar’s
glory as a conference facility while
reinventing it as seaside resort and
auto camp.
The effort to turn Asilomar
into a resort-by-the-sea ended
in 1941 when the Visels walked
away from the opportunity to
buy the grounds. The National
Board of the YWCA then leased
the grounds to the National Youth
Administration (NYA), a unit of
the New Deal-era Works Progress
Administration that offered
education and employment
training to unemployed youth. The
NYA used Asilomar’s grounds to
house and train young people for
the expected wartime industries
while providing an opportunity for
structured recreation.
With the start of World War
II, the NYA’s mission came to an
end, but the influx of people
into California made sure that
Asilomar did not stay empty for
long. Families of military personnel
associated with Fort Ord took
up residence at Asilomar during
the first half of 1942 and stayed
until 1946.
The Friends of Asilomar
Following World War II, YWCA
members were torn between
their emotional attachment to
the grounds and its inability to
produce enough revenue to
pay for its upkeep. As the YWCA
entertained purchase offers
for Asilomar, Heard and other
volunteers convinced the YWCA to
let them operate the facility. The
YWCA loaned Asilomar enough
money to reopen its conference
facilities and to replace roofs and
add a coat of “Asilomar Green”
paint. The Friends of Asilomar also
began to plan for Asilomar’s longterm survival.
Perhaps the most consequential
decision they made was the hiring
of manager Roma Philbrook, in
1949. An experienced hospital
administrator, Philbrook would
remain at Asilomar until the end of
1977, overseeing its transformation
from primarily a weekend and
summer meeting facility to a
year-round, full-service conference
grounds.
In 1952, the YWCA negotiated a
deal with an Oakland funeral home
director who planned to convert
Asilomar to an end-of-life home
for 400 persons over age 65. At
about the same time, Asilomar’s
neighbor, the Del Monte Company,
offered to buy the several hundred
thousand cubic feet of sand west
of the Chapel near the Circle. The
Friends of Asilomar objected to
both deals but knew that they
had to provide an alternative in
order to save Asilomar. A group of
concerned citizens in neighboring
Pacific Grove formed a “Save
Asilomar” committee and actively
lobbied the State to buy Asilomar.
In 1951, as part of its plan to
protect California’s coast, the
California Department of Natural
Resources Division of Beaches
& Parks purchased nearby Moss
Beach (Asilomar Beach) and parts
of the rocky shoreline south
of the Point Pinos lighthouse
reservation. By 1952, the State
Parks Commission announced that
it was interested in buying the
conference grounds and nearby
dunes, which it would set aside
forever as a wild and undeveloped
area. The Commission authored
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©CA State Parks
Asilomar Foundation Members, left to right:
Elizabeth Gordon; Bernise May; Winifred Heard; Roma Philbrook; Maude Empey, 1954.
a bill to fund the purchase of
Asilomar and 18 other properties,
which passed with little difficulty.
Nevertheless, Governor Goodwin
Knight pocket vetoed the bill,
arguing that the nearly $16
million package violated the
long-standing principal that State
funds be matched with private
donations or local allocations.
Winifred Heard convinced the
YWCA to donate half the $700,000
appraised value to the state. She
then convinced her friend Joseph
Knowland, Chairman of the Parks
Commission, Democratic State
Senator, Fred Farr, and Republican
State Assemblyman, Alan Pattee,
to broker a deal in which the City
of Pacific Grove would manage
the grounds for 25 years,
reinvesting all surplus revenues
into maintenance and new
buildings. On July 1, 1956, the state
merged the conference grounds
with Asilomar State Beach Park
under the management of the
non-profit Pacific Grove-Asilomar
Operating Corporation (PG-AOC).
Concessionaires
Under the concession agreement
with the PG-AOC, and with
Roma Philbrook’s continued
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management, Asilomar began
several decades of profitable
operations. Plans were put into
place in 1958, calling for full
utilization of the grounds, “First
Class” housing, more parking, and
a modern infrastructure.
Expansion and modernization
of Asilomar began in 1959 with
the opening of the Surf and Sand
Complex and the Corporation
Yard. A remodeled and expanded
dining facility followed, with
the Pacific Grove Rotary Club
inaugurating the new Seascape
dining room in 1961. In 1969,
State Parks terminated the
operating agreement with Pacific
Grove and assumed control
over the Pacific Grove-Asilomar
Operating Corporation. Roma
Philbrook remained, however, and
Asilomar’s expansion continued
across Asilomar Avenue into East
Woods with the addition of the
State Parks’ training facility and
accompanying housing. Though
Roma Philbrook departed in 1977,
expansion continued until the
completion of the Forest Lodge
and Fireside complexes in 1981.
Throughout Asilomar’s years of
expansion, concern grew over the
conference grounds’ impact on the
environment. In the 1980s, State
Parks began a systematic program
of dune restoration that continues
to this day. Forest restoration,
which had begun as early as 1959,
also continues as the effects of
pitch canker, fragmentation, and
other impacts on the Monterey
pine-coast live oak forest are
monitored and analyzed.
In 1993 the State cancelled
the concession contract with the
Pacific Grove-Asilomar Operating
Corporation, awarding it to the
Delaware North Corporation in
1996. In September 2009, California
State Parks signed a twentyyear concession agreement with
ARAMARK Sports & Entertainment
to operate the conference grounds
and lodging business.
Asilomar State Beach &
Conference Grounds
The Asilomar State Beach and
Conference Grounds park unit
now contains nearly 60 buildings
located on 107 acres with a worldrenowned beach, gently rolling
sand dunes, and a Monterey
pine-Coast Live Oak forest. A
major State Parks project funded
with concessionaire contributions
and completed in 2014, brought
Asilomar into compliance with
the Americans with Disabilities
Act. The project included mobility
upgrades to conference grounds
pathways, several remodeled
accessible lodge rooms, and
improved building accessibility
throughout the property.
Asilomar has an annual visitation
of more than 400,000 people
including conference attendees,
attendees, overnight guests, and
vacationers to the beach, dunes
and coastal trail who revel in the
spectacular views of this “Refuge
by the Sea”.
Phoebe Hearst Social Hall
Terrace Restoration Project
– a California State Parks and
Aramark Collaboration
On an autumn afternoon in
1912, a small group of “pioneer
workers and dreamers” gathered
at the edge of the Pacific Ocean at
the site now known as Asilomar.
The Young Women’s Christian
Association (YWCA) had decided
to build a permanent conference
site, the first owned and operated
by a women’s group in the
United States. The initial survey
group included Mrs. Phoebe
Apperson Hearst, Mrs. Benjamin
Ide Wheeler, Mrs. Mary Merrill,
Miss Ella Schooley, and Miss Julia
Morgan. Accompanying them was
©CA State Parks. Elmer Schmidt, c. 1920
restoration
a representative for the real estate
development firm known as the
Pacific Improvement Company
(PIC), Mr. A.D. Shepherd. The PIC
had offered thirty acres of land to
the YWCA for its new conference
grounds with the stipulation
that they pay land taxes and add
$30,000 in improvements within
ten years.
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In the words of Mary Merrill (first
director of Asilomar), “Together we
wandered through the picturesque
camping grounds of old Monterey
and Pacific Grove, over the sand
dunes, on thru the pine trees,
gathering inspiration every
moment from the glimpse of the
ocean, blue in its tranquility; the
scene growing more fascinating
and captivating at every turn, until
we reached the marvelous beach,
the boundary of our possessions to
be. Retracing our steps, with Miss
Morgan in our lead, who visualized
for us the future sites for the
various buildings, we decided then
and there that we could and would
meet the requirements of the
company [PIC] and recommended
to the National Board that this offer
be accepted. Thus the vision of the
Conference Grounds and Vacation
Camp of the National Board
became a reality.”1
A key member of the group
of “dreamers” was Julia Morgan,
first woman to receive a license
to practice architecture in the
state of California. Morgan’s
design aesthetic for the Asilomar
Conference Grounds buildings
drew inspiration – and materials
– from the local setting. The
buildings at Asilomar embrace
the California Arts and Crafts style
that emphasizes nature, site, and
local materials. Milled redwood
paneling and roof trusses were
harvested locally; rubble stone
pillars sourced from the nearby
seashore. With topographic maps
supplied by the PIC, Morgan drew
the initial plans for the grounds,
linking building sites with walking
paths and utility roads. She
planned for three buildings around
the wooded campus circle that
served as the primary sites for
socializing (Phoebe Hearst Social
Hall), spiritual uplift (Grace Dodge
Chapel),and sustenance (Mary Ann
Crocker Dining Hall). Phoebe A.
Hearst Social Hall, originally called
the Administration Building, was
completed in 1913. This attractive
building has a large, welcoming
fireplace, cozy reading areas, and,
during the early years of YWCA
ownership, housed class rooms, a
bureau of information, post office,
book store, and tea room/shop
where post cards and photographs
were sold. Outside, the building’s
full-width concrete terrace, with
a tiered semi-circular stairway,
afforded a view towards the ocean.
The building’s entry doors offered
a rustic embrace and welcomed
campers to Asilomar – “Refuge by
the Sea.” The concrete terrace was
demolished in 1973 and a wood
deck constructed in its place.
The wood deck did not retain
Morgan’s original design intent, as
it restricted the view of the natural
environment from the interior
and the view of the building
from the grounds. Restoration of
the concrete terrace returns the
building to its original design,
reestablishes a unique view shed,
and strengthens the historical
integrity and value of this National
Historic Landmark property.
California State Parks prepared
the terrace restoration design
and consulted on all ecological,
architectural, and historical
issues related to the project.
Asilomar concessionaire, Aramark,
managed the construction project,
completed March, 2017. Your
comments on the restoration
project are welcome and we
encourage you to share your
thoughts with California State
Parks by calling the Asilomar State
Park Office: (831) 646-6440.
1. YWCA Publication, “The Story of
Asilomar” c. 1924
12
©CA State Parks. Peter Nichols
architecture
When Julia Morgan designed
Asilomar Conference Grounds for
the YWCA, women in California
had only recently secured the right
to vote. The women of the YWCA
knew that they were on the verge
of something great. Morgan’s
college friend, Oakland Chapter
President, Grace Fischer said that
the YWCA “is not an experiment.”
The investment in Asilomar was
one way to prove it.
Julia Morgan was the right
person to carry the YWCA’s vision
forward. In 1894 she graduated
with an engineering degree
from the University of California,
Berkeley—only the fourth woman
to do so. In 1898 she became the
first women admitted to the École
©CA State Parks
Julia Morgan
Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social Hall Interior, c. 1915. Julia Morgan, Architect
13
fireplaces, Morgan’s buildings
inspire appreciation for architecture
and for the natural environment.
Merrill Hall Interior. Julia Morgan, Architect
©CA State Parks
des Beaux-Arts in Paris, where,
in 1902, she graduated with a
Master’s Degree in Architecture.
In 1904, after working with the
University of California’s architect,
John Galen Howard, Morgan
became the first woman to earn
a license to practice architecture
in California. She opened her own
office in San Francisco that same
year.
Throughout her career, Morgan
14
demonstrated an ability to work
in an extraordinary array of
architectural styles. Trained in the
classicism of the Beaux-Arts, her
designs for Asilomar reflect an
innovative vernacular approach to
Arts and Craft architecture known
as the First Bay Tradition. She set
this standard at Asilomar with the
Phoebe Apperson Hearst Social
Hall, the first permanent building
on the grounds. The Social Hall
features natural materials
including local granite and
unpainted redwood. Hidden
behind the dunes and set among
the trees, it remains the center of
life at Asilomar.
With the construction of the
majestic Merrill Hall in 1928
Morgan’s work at Asilomar came to
a close. Set where the sandy dunes
meet the Monterey pine-oak forest
and featuring native materials,
open ceilings and imposing
In 1957 Asilomar’s management
hired San Francisco architect
John Carl Warnecke to develop
a “Master Plan” for the park’s
modernization and expansion. Born
in Oakland in 1919, Warnecke was
the son of Oakland architect Carl I.
Warnecke. Before he retired, John
Carl Warnecke’s internationally
recognized firm designed the
Soviet Embassy in Washington, DC,
the U.S. Naval Academy Library,
international airports, university
buildings, and the Hawaii State
Capitol. He became acquainted with
John and Jacqueline Kennedy, and
after JFK’s assassination, Warnecke
designed the presidential gravesite
at Arlington National Cemetery.
W