Big South Fork

Big South Fork • B A T B B P J Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area Kentucky and Tennessee National Park Service U.S. Department of the Interior •'..'-'- M A K I N G THE MOUNTAINS A DEEPLY CARVED PLATEAU Plateau rivers sustain some of the most varied fish and The Big South Fork River begins in Tennessee at the confluence of the Clear Fork and New rivers, flows north through freshwater mussel species in the nation. Ravines and hollows are among the richest wildflower areas in the South. a spectacular 600-foot-deep gorge, enters Kentucky, and empties into the Cumberland River. This land embraces the Nationally significant for its free-flowing rivers, its deep wildest and most rugged territory on the Cumberland Plagorge, and variety of plants and animals, the area captured teau. Carved over millennia by water flowing over sandstone and shale, the plateau today is a network of hills and the attention of the U.S. Congress in the 1970s. In 1974 Congress authorized Big South Fork National River and Rechollows, rocky ridges, and river valleys. Rock shelters bear reation Area, the first to be designated as both a national evidence of thousands of years of human habitation, and remnants of homesteads and cemeteries dot the landscape. 3 river and a national recreation area. This insightful blend of park management—protecting an area with few roads and t ' . . rr»v i,-/7*% .,j^jaw no development while providing visitors with recreational The gorge slowly widens northward, revealing river opportunities—preserves this park for you and future benches, floodplains, and bottomlands. Many streams generations. V drop suddenly from the plateau's surface into deeply entrenched valleys. The bottom of the gorge ranges from flat and sandy, almost like a beach, to huge boulders that force the river into violent stretches of white water. ~ LAYERS UPON LAYERS Rocks on the Cumberland Plateau were born as sediments deposited by a shallow sea millions of years ago. The sediments built up gradually in horizontal layers thousands of feet thick and, crushed by their own weight, hardened into limestone, shale, coal, and sandstone, topped by a rocky conglomerate—a natural concrete. The Appalachian Mountains are old, even in geologic terms. They formed over millions of years as continental and ocean plates collided, separated, and collided again. Extensive erosion followed each series of mountain building, scouring gigantic mountains into mere nubs. Each time the plates collided, masses of rock pushed up and moved westward (see map at left). When the region uplifted, erosion began shaping a new landscape. Streams cutting into the sandstone and other layers formed gorges, arches, cliffs, and rock shelters. You can see layers of shale, coal, sandstone, and conglomerate at Leatherwood Ford (see map on other side of this brochure). HILLS AND HOLLOWS The plateau's flat surface causes streams to spread out at any angle like tree roots. Water seeping through cracks scours out softer rock, leaving behind hills and carving out hollows (see below). Today the Appalachians—formed under relentless heat and pressure—are a mosaic of uplifted plateaus, parallel ridges and valleys, and layers of sedimentary and igneous (volcanic) rock. RIDGES AND VALLEYS This region features long, even-crested mountain ridges alternating with long, continuous river valleys. Looking much like nature's corduroy, the ridges and valleys run northeast-to-southwest for hundreds of miles (see below). THE CUMBERLAND PLATEAU lies in the western Appalachian Mountains. This large tableland, formed over time by continental ENGEL FALLS GORGE (ABOVE AND BIGHT AT DUSK) DCHUCK SUMMERS FJP5FOCEAN PLATE MAP (ABOVE BIGHT) im-trir collisions, rises over 1,000 feet above the surrounding region. Weather-resistant sandstone tops the plateau giving it a flat horizon (see below), while layers of soft shale erode to form sheer cliffs and steep-walled gorges. „N<GW^ For centuries Indians traversed the plateau and plied its rivers, hunting, fishing, and gathering food (see chart at right). They camped in rock shelters, leaving their stories in the traces of ^ bone tools and spear points that archeologists study today. From " 1,000 t o 3,000 years ago Woodland Indians lived longer in one . place, allowing them to begin crafting pottery (below). By 1000 to 1600, Mississippian Indians built farming communities in river valleys, developed n e w strains of corn, squash, and beans, and supplemented their diet w i t h deer, bear, and other animals from the plateau. In the 1700s Shawnee and Cherokee hunted here, and by 1805 the Cherokee ceded the land to the U.S. government. A Cherokee family in the 1880s watches a girl prepare cornmeal (left). SMITHSONIAN INSTITUTION The Paleo-lndian period is characterized by long, fluted Clovis stone points (right). In the early 1800s American settlers of Scotch-Irish heritage w o r k e d subsistence farms. People gathered at stores, one-room schools, and churches t o socialize and share ideas. But life was hard, as indicated by place names like No Business and Difficulty. In the 1900s *$ the plateau witnessed coal mining, logging, and other exploitation,' including drilling for gas and oil. Companies built railroads and mining towns like Blue Heron, and workers flooded in. By the 1960s, after extracting most of the local resources, the companies pulled out. Without work, many people moved away too. Fortunes changed in 1974 with the creation of the national river—recreational activities brought new life to the region. ,!iim.iii!i.iii.i'mai.uiii.iiniiL'ii PREHISTORY Paleo-lndian Period 12,000 to 10,000years ago Archaic Period 10,000 to 3,000years ago Woodland Period (above) 3,000 to 1,000years ago Mississippian Period 7,000 to 400 years ago FRANK MCOUNG MUSEUM Early settlers struggled to survive in this isolated country (above). FRANK MCCLUNG MUSEUNVGREG HARLIN ARTIST (ABOVE) PALEO INDIANS FRANK MCCIUNG MUSEUM/GREG HARLIN ARTIST WOODLAND PERIOD POTTERY CHEROKEE Trade items like this iron toe changed traditional Cherokee culture (left). UNFVERSTTY OF NORTH CAROLINA FRANK MCCLUNG MUSEUM The early 1900s witness heavy logging; by the 1940s most marketable timber was gone. Workers at Blue Heron sort coal in the 1950s (above). A motor car pulls loaded trams out of the mine (above right). APPRECIATING LOCAL PLANTS A N D ANIMALS Are you curious? Do you have a notebook, a camera? Come to Big South Fork, and you'll discover an amazing diversity of plants and animals. In spring, yellow lady's slippers grow in the sandy soil on the floodplains of creeks. Virginia bluebells poke shoots through the earth along river banks, opening their blue flowers to the sun. Mountain laurel thrives in the acidic soil, producing clusters of pink and white blossoms. Not to be outdone by these colorful plants, animals in Big South Fork also put on a show. Wild turkeys peck in aban- Children in tlT^I?.;©^ made their own fun— boating, swimming, and posing for the camera. Stearns Coal and Lumber Company opened its first coal mine and company town at Barthell in 1902 (above). In the 1970s over 300 oil and gas wells operated in the park; many are still in production (above). MINING PHOTOS fAflOVfl/NPS doned fields, and strutting toms (left) establish domination over their territory. White-tailed deer give birth to spotted fawns. Shy American black bears, reintroduced in the mid1990s, are increasing in number. Over 160 species of birds are recorded here, both year-round residents and migratory, including woodpeckers, chickadees, warblers, and owls. RIVER PRAIRIES? Mention prairies and most people imagine landscapes with waving grasses, wildf lowers, and a lone buf- falo. But a rare prairie occurs at Big South Fork—the largest concentration of cobble bar plant communities in existence. In river prairies, plants cling to gravel (cobble) bars and expanses of bedrock. Western prairies are sustained by fire, but here in the river gorges of the Cumberland Plateau the driving force is water. Floods wash over these habitats, scouring out species not adapted to disturbance. Grasses, herbs, and some shrubs survive these punishing conditions, including the endangered Cumberland rosemary and Virginia spirea. BLACK BEAR CUB WILD TURKEY AMINITA MUSCARIA WHITE-TAILED DEER FAWN YELLOW LADY'S SLIPPER ©STEVE & DAVE MASLOWSKI OCHUCK SUMMERS ©CHUCK SUMMERS OCHUCK SUMMERS IS THERE A FUTURE FOR FRESHWATER MUSSELS? Big South Fork is one of the last refuges for freshwater mussels in this watershed. Twenty-six species live here; seven are endangered. These mussels are sedentary, long-lived, pearly mollusks that burrow into gravel bars, sucking in and filtering water for nutrients. Sensitive to water quality, they are bellwethers of aquatic ecosystem health. LIFE OF THE RIVER The aquatic systems of Big South Fork—nearly destroyed by pollution from unregulated mining and logging in the early to mid-1900s—are recovering under the park's protection. The park boasts over 138 miles of fishing streams and is home to over 60 species of fish, including largemouth bass (see below). But is the river completely healthy? Freshwater mussels may tell us; they play an important role in the food chain for wildlife like the great blue heron and river otter. But many freshwater mussels are declining. National Park Service staff works hard to restore the river's health. With your help and public support this watershed can again achieve world-class status. CHRISTMAS FERN ENJOYING BIG SOUTH FORK PLANNING YOUR VISIT Start at a visitor center for information, maps, exhibits, and a bookstore. The free park newspaper Big South Fork Visitor Guide has up-to-date details on activities, camping and horse facilities, safety, and regulations, plus articles of local interest. Contact the park about programs, fees, and permits, or visit www.nps.gov/biso. Bandy Creek Visitor Center, 15 miles west of Oneida, Tenn., is open daily except December 25; hours vary seasonally. 423-286-7275. Stearns Depot Visitor Center, Stearns, Ky., is open daily May through October, seasonally the rest of the year; hours vary. 606-376-5073. Big South Fork Scenic Railway (operates seasonally) runs from Stearns Depot to the Blue Heron Mining Community. 606-376-5330. Blue Heron Mining Community, in Kentucky off KY 742, has an outdoor museum that tells the 25-year coal-mining story with exhibits, structures, and audio programs. It is open year-round; rangers are available April through October. 606-376-3787. MOUNTAIN BIKING RELAXING TRAIN FROM STEARNS ©BIG SOUTH FORK BICYCLE CLUB ©KENTUCKY DEFT. OF TRAVEL ©BIG SOUTH FORK SCENIC RAILWAY YAHOO FALLS " ©CHUCKSUI Camping, Lodging, Food, Services The park has developed campgrounds, horse campgrounds, backcountry lodging, and backcountry camping (permits required). Neighboring communities offer lodging, food, and services. On the River The Big South Fork and its tributaries wind through 90 miles of scenic gorges, cliffs, and valleys, and pass by historic features. Contact the park or visit our website for details on river levels, descriptions, and access points. Hiking, Horses, Trail Blazes Big South Fork has hundreds of miles of trails. Colored blazes at trailheads indicate authorized use: red for horse and wagon, green for hiking, blue for mountain bikes, and orange for multi-use. Arches, Waterfalls, Overlooks The region abounds in arches, waterfalls, rockshelters, and overlooks. You can drive to many sites, but some require hiking or riding. Yahoo Falls (left) is Kentucky's tallest, spilling water 113 feet to a pool below. Twin Arches (right) form the largest sandstone arch complex in the East. CUMBERLAND BEAN MUSSEL POCKETBOOK MUSSEL CUMBERLAND ELKTOE MUSSEL NPS NPS NPS STEWARDSHIP Big South Fork strives to protect the river, its watershed, and its cultural features. Everyone has a stake in this stewardship—please help us preserve the park for future generations. All plants, animals, rocks, and historic and archeological sites are protected by federal law. Report suspicious behavior (anonymously). Call the Resource Protection Hotline: 423-569-2404, ext. 505. LARGEMOUTH BASS ©MICHAEL HALRERT RIDING THE TRAILS TWIN ARCHES ©TRUE WEST CAMPGROUND ©CHUCK SUMMERS Sculpting the Cumberland Plateau SAFETY FIRST Floating, hiking, riding, and exploring can be fun, but if you get hurt you may be a long way from help. Cell phones may not work, and getting medical help to you can be difficult. Ask rangers for safety tips, read bulletin boards, and know the regulations. Remember, your safety is your responsibility. SAFETY ON THE RIVER • Wear a life jacket (PFD) when boating. It w o n ' t do you any good at the bottom of your boat. Children under 16 must wear a PFD. • Swim at your own risk. Don't swim alone. • As you approach obstacles look for the long glassy "V" pointing downstream. This is the chute—the safest route through. • If you capsize, stay upstream from your boat. Currents pushing against a canoe can trap and hold you underwater. • If you capsize in rapids, swim hard to the bank or eddy. Otherwise, stay on your back and keep your feet pointed downstream. Swim ashore after reaching calmer water. • Rapids and unmarked hazards can occur at any time. Scout ahead and know river levels. • Never tie a person in a watercraft. Do not lash tubes or canoes together. MORE SAFETY TIPS • Stay back from cliffs; they may be undercut. Stay on trails to prevent erosion. Watch your step. Rocks and logs can be unstable. • Be alert for ticks, stinging insects, poison ivy, and poisonous snakes (copperhead and timber rattlers). Wear insect repellent, and watch where you step, sit, or place your hands. • All surface water is unfit for drinking. • Thefts do occur at trailheads. Leave your valuables at home, secure them out of sight in your vehicle, or take them with you. Ask about shuttle services for floaters and hikers. • Hunting and fishing are allowed here; state and federal regulations apply. Ask staff about hunting seasons and hunt-free safety zones. • Black bears live in the park. Practice proper food storage, and keep a clean camp. • Pets must be on a leash. Do not leave them unattended or in vehicles. Emergencies: Contact a ranger or call 911. MORE INFORMATION Big South Fork National River and Recreation Area 4564 Leatherwood Road Oneida, TN 37841 423-286-7275 www.nps.gov/biso Big South Fork NRRA is one of over 390 parks in the National Park System. To learn more about national parks and National Park Service programs in America's communities, visit www.nps.gov. OGPO:2009—349-224/80222 Printed on recycled paper. iome land within the park emains private property; )lease respect the owners' ights. The Eastern/Central ime zone boundary divides he park. The park operates >n Eastern time. Any river activity—wading, swimming, boating, rock hopping, or fishing—is inherently dangerous; on average two drownings occur here each year. Wet and slippery rocks, strong currents, and undertows are the culprits. Use caution near the river and wear a life jacket when swimming or boating.